New York Magazine

American Fashion Confronts America

And the most anticipated collection was also the most relevant.
Michael Kors

AS IT turned out, the most anticipated collection at New York Fashion Week set the bar for the whole season. Raf Simons’s debut at Calvin Klein was wonderfully imaginative—and as real as your uncle from Texas. Under a ceiling of streamers and pom-poms (by the artist Sterling Ruby), Simons and his longtime right hand, Pieter Mulier, went for broke with Americana.

Calvin Klein

There were coats fashioned from antique quilts,1 austere leather jackets based on 1940s sheriff’s gear, and sharp pantsuits in those saturated hues—deep blue, purple,2 green—that Simons loves. There were references to Midnight Cowboy and Studio 54—namely, an acid-yellow fake-fur coat with a rhinestone belt and vinyl protective cover

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