More (or Less) Core Division

I recently sat down at a bar in the San Diego airport while waiting for a flight to San Francisco, and the bartender and I got to talking about surfing. He asked me what my home break was, and when I told him Ocean Beach, his eyes widened. “Whoa, you surf OB?” he said. “You must be pretty hardcore. Every picture I’ve ever seen of that place, it’s, like, at least 10-foot and heavy. You’re gnarly.”

I wasn’t sure what to say. The thing is, I’ve been a surfer for over 20 years, ridden waves on four continents and have been