New York Magazine

What Price Pasta?

At Leonti, on the Upper West Side, silver-dome dining meets bean soup.
Leonti

Leonti

103 W. 77th St., nr. Columbus Ave.

212-362-3800

leontinyc.com

YOU WON’T FIND MANY new dining rooms in the recent star-crossed annals of New York fine dining (not to mention the annals of that perpetually star-crossed culinary region of the city known as the Upper West Side) as elegant or classically inviting as the one at Leonti. If you’re coming in from the blustery cold on a dark winter evening, the ambitious Italian restaurant, which opened several months back in the 77th Street space formerly occupied by the Michelin-starred restaurant Dovetail, can look a little like an executive dining salon in one of the

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