CYPRIOT SUMMER
SOUVLA
“This isn’t a formal recipe, more of a guide. There are so many variables, it is easier to explain what it is that you want to achieve than give you exact instructions. Cypriots are fanatical about their souvla, and although it might not be achievable for everyone – you really do need a foukou [charcoal rotisserie] – it would be criminal not to include it. If you don’t have one, try it on a regular barbeque; just make sure there is enough distance between the meat and the coals, and that you turn the meat regularly. Not everyone marinates their meat before cooking, and it’s fine to cook as is, but I do like to if I have time.”
Serves 8 EASY Preparation: 20 minutes, plus overnight chilling time Cooking: 3 hours
pork or lamb 4 kg (even chicken can be used) – on the bone ideally, shoulder or neck is best; get your butcher to cut it into large chunks for you
olive oil
dried oregano 1 T
garlic 6 cloves, crushed
sweet smoked paprika ½ t (optional)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
lemons 3
Place the meat in a large bowl or nonreactive dish, drizzle over a few Get your barbeque ready and lit; the charcoal needs to be white before you start cooking. Skewer the meat onto large skewers, but don’t push the pieces too close together. Reserve the marinade. Place the skewers on the highest setting or grill level, so they are around 25–30 cm away from the coals, and turn on the motor. This will mean the meat cooks slowly and the fat will render out while cooking, keeping it moist. Occasionally baste with the oregano marinade and season generously with salt and pepper while cooking. As the meat cooks, bring the skewers slowly closer to the coals, about halfway through. When the meat is almost ready, squeeze over the juice of 1 lemon. The meat is done when it is crispy and gnarly on the outside and tender inside – it can take anything from 1½ to 3 hours depending on the size and cut of your meat and the heat of the coals. Squeeze over more lemon juice for the last 10 minutes, and sprinkle over more oregano. Serve with knives and forks – this isn’t a pita bread affair – lots of salads and the remaining lemon cut into wedges.
