True local

If the snacks are anything to go by, Etta has a firm grip on the concepts behind a neighbourhood local. Little cubes of pommes Anna made with Dutch cream potatoes are fried to crisp at the edges and served with a fermented black-garlic caramel and a flurry of finely grated parmesan. An oblong of Etta’s house-made sourdough that’s been soaked in fermented tomato juice is fried, then