Surfing Life

BOARDS, BIKES & AUTOMOBILES

When I was six to eight years old, I spent 18 months driving around Australia with my mum and her partner, Max, who’s like my old man. I was homeschooled along the way and that’s where I learned to surf, fish, tie knots, and spent all this time outside experiencing the true culture of Australia. That sparked a journey that Ishka and I took driving around Australia to begin the Lost Track series.

CIRCUMNAVIGATING AUSTRALIA BY LAND ROVER

I’ve got this photo of Max and I, when I was a kid at our camp in the desert looking at Red Bluff and you could see the wave in the distance. I hadn’t been back there since, and I’d always wanted to retrace that journey. So when we were in South Oz and saw this swell coming, we gunned it up north. We drove six days straight, across the Nullarbor all the way up, and covered about 3000 to 4000 km. It was the blessing and curse of a surfer; we drove past so much epic stuff in search of waves. It was a shame, but you had to when there was a swell hitting. So, we drove and drove and drove and arrived stiff and scorched by the drive. We rolled into four days of the most incredible waves I’ve ever seen (see opening section of Lost Track Australia on Vimeo). It was a sweet reward.

Nothing had really changed up there. It encompassed everything that was special to me. It was a really good reflection of the past and had a real homely feeling, even though I hadn’t been there since I was seven. After I spent a day surfing with a mate or two, had a fish, and sat around the fire, time stood still. Everything made more sense, it was a lot more real. You didn’t know what time of day it was, or what day it was at all. After a day or two you’d totally lost track of time.

It was after a nice surf, when we sat around a fire, that me and Ishka got inspired. Imagine if we followed our passion—travelled and documented different continents and countries,

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