Cook's Illustrated

The World’s Greatest Tuna Sandwich

The first thing to know about pan bagnat: It’s not your everyday tuna sandwich.

To me, that means a mayonnaise-y deli salad that’s sandwiched between slices of toasted wheat or rye bread. Pan bagnat, the iconic Provencal tuna sandwich, is something entirely different—and, dare I say, far more grand. It’s essentially a nicoise salad served between two halves of a loaf of crusty bread: Chunks of high-quality canned tuna; sliced hard-cooked eggs, tomatoes, and red onion; briny nicoise olives and (sometimes) capers; anchovies; garlic; and fragrant herbs are carefully layered and dressed in a mustardy vinaigrette. And here’s the brilliant part: The sandwich gets wrapped tightly with plastic wrap and pressed under a weight, which tamps down the piled-high filling. This step ensures that the whole package is compact enough to bite through and the filling slightly saturates the crumb without softening the crisp means “bathed bread” in Nicard, the local variant of the Provencal dialect, referring to how cooks once “refreshed” the stale bread by softening it under a stream of water.)

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Cook's Illustrated

Cook's Illustrated4 min read
Baja’s Shrimp and Vegetable Tacos
Tacos gobernador, or “governor’s tacos,” are food fit for a VIP. The recipe was born about 30 years ago, when Francisco Labastida Ochoa, the governor of the Mexican state Sinaloa, paid a visit to Mazatlán’s Los Arcos restaurant. The restaurant’s chef
Cook's Illustrated4 min read
No-Commitment Refrigerator Preserves
Refrigerator jams and jellies are gateway preserves: quick, easy, attractive ways to bottle up peak-season produce at its best. The formulas are basic (fruit, sugar, lemon juice); the batches are typically small, so there’s no need to invest in bushe
Cook's Illustrated3 min read
The Beauty of Braised Bok Choy
So many greens are all leaf and no stem, but bok choy levels the ratio. At least 50 percent of each oblong head features thick, bright white ribs (“bok choy” is Cantonese for “white vegetable”) that stretch skyward and unfurl into a collar of jade-gr

Related Books & Audiobooks