Choosing Oil-Packed Tuna

anned fish is having a moment. Many trendy restaurants across the country have begun featuring preserved, tinned seafood on their appetizer boards. In the test kitchen, we like keeping canned or jarred oil-packed tuna in the pantry, ready for use in recipes such as salade nicoise, , pasta dishes, and crostini. Unlike water-packed tuna (see “The Best Canned Tuna in Water” on page 28), which is primarily used as an ingredient in tuna salad and casseroles, oil-packed tuna is ready to serve straight from the container, with little to no intervention on the part of the cook. At its best, this fish has a moist, silky texture and rich, meaty taste that is enhanced by being preserved with