Cook's Country

Stroud’s Cinnamon Rolls

THEY MAY NOT be the image you conjure when you think of cinnamon rolls, but the rolls served at Stroud’s Oak Ridge Manor (see “Kansas City’s Sweet Surprise”) use a similar buttery cinnamon sugar mixture as well as just enough salt to be noticeable. Instead of being swirled up inside, however, the mixture coats the outside of the rolls. And unlike traditional cinnamon rolls, these are not covered in frosting—they’re served with lunch or dinner alongside fried chicken.

In the test kitchen, I started with a yeasted dough from our

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