PassageMaker

THE LAND OF ICE AND DREAMS

The fishy smell of whale breath filled the air as we left Shelikof Strait and headed toward the Ouzinkie Narrows on our way to Kodiak, Alaska. We were on the last day of a three-month sojourn through the Aleutian Islands, having left Japan in June. The pod of orcas around us was a grand finale to an outstanding season’s cruising as we prepared to winter over and contemplate our next move.

, our 55-year-old wooden boat—a former commercial fishboat—had done a fantastic job so far. She’d been our base for exploring New Zealand, the central and western Pacific, and the Aleutians

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