Surfer's Start-Up: A Beginner's Guide to Surfing
By Doug Werner
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Reviews for Surfer's Start-Up
6 ratings1 review
- Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5This is the ultimate in beginning surfing. Maybe too beginning as there was not much to it. I would have loved a book that was a little longer.
Book preview
Surfer's Start-Up - Doug Werner
Acknowledgements
Stu Kenson
Robin Niehaus
David Montalbano
Jim Montalbano
Diane Gallo
Craig McClain
Christine Gillard
Mike Gillard
Gene Wheeler
Genie Wheeler
LeRoy Grannis
Vance Masterson
Todd Westfall
South Juanita Surf Club
Jeff Phillips
Kathy Phillips
Craig Colburn
Steve Hawk
Dori Payne
Mary Lou Drummy
Cliff Schlabach
Roxanne Schlabach
Black Sheep
Dan Poynter
Court Overin
Jay Novak
Pat Weber
Lynne Weber
ColorType
Jim Clinkscales
Phyllis Carter
Red Werner
Ann Werner
Tim Sutherland
Bob Sutherland
Preface
I began writing this book because I knew it would be fun. As I got rolling, I realized I had something to say. Perhaps there is a real need for this guide. Most of us learn on our own. I didn’t see any How-to-Surf
books around.
Since somebody was bound to read it, I also figured I could attempt to instill some attitude in this thing. Mostly respect. For surfers already in the water, for the situation that exists, for the sport I love so much. This book is easy to read, big on pictures and light in spirit. It’s put together in broad strokes designed to get you out in the water and give it a go. It’s loose in its treatment of anything historical, oceanographic or technical. But you’ll get the picture.
I hope my surfing buddies don’t turn on me or ridicule my efforts too much. But I expect it. From now on, every time I fall off someone is going to hand me this book. Anyway, have fun with it. If you take it up, be good to the sport, to the surfers who came before and to yourself.
Doug Werner (Image C)
Image C: As in other sports, determination and desire can help power your trip through the learning curve. Think about Tim Sutherland when you’re trying to ride your first waves. He surfs everyday in Imperial Beach, California with an artificial foot.
Image D: Sexy Stuff.
Introduction:
The Meat of the Matter
This is a book for beginners—People who would like to learn how to surf but have little or no experience with surfing or even the ocean. When I was collecting testimonials for the first edition back in 1993, I was told by a former world champion and the current head honcho of one of the major surfing tours that it was a beginnah’s beginning book
(he’s Australian). He got it right.
It’s a straightforward guide without the insider surfer’s slang. As the Library Journal said, Werner generally eschews the cutesy surfin’ safari lingo that often plagues books such as this.
They got it right. We are trying to reach people here. Not to impress or confuse. (Eschew, by the way, means to shun or avoid. I had to look it up since it was such a gnarly term.)
Surfer’s Start-Up is a simple, almost Dick and Jane approach to surfing instruction that works. Our book is not very sexy, although, as one esteemed reviewer put it, we get to the meat of the matter.
That is, we will teach you how to stand up on a surfboard. And that is very exciting (even sexy!) indeed.
Special care was taken to photograph our surfers in small beach break surf, suitable for learning. This kind of surf can be found on any coast around the world given the right tide, wind and swell conditions. We could have illustrated the book with David Montalbano and Christine Gillard (the models in this book) riding perfect, eight-foot waves like in the magazines, but everyday beginners aren’t likely to encounter such surf, let alone negotiate it.
Global
A zillion people surf today. All over the world. Wherever there’s a coastline—the USA (even Alaska ... even the Great Lakes), Canada, Mexico, Central America, South America, Japan, Vietnam, Australia, New Zealand, Africa, Europe ... Did I say you needed a coastline? I’m sorry. They’re building wave pools in Arizona, Nevada, and in all sorts of hot, high and/or dry places. This is especially wondrous to those of us who first came to surfing when it was really a Hawaiian and Southern Californian thing.
The modern age of surfing is around 50 years old. Maybe 60. LeRoy Grannis, famed surfing photographer and ageless wonder remembers not paddling out at Malibu once because his friends couldn’t make it. He showed me a photo of the surf that day. It was six feet and flawless. No surfers at Malibu is like no one showing up for the Super Bowl. It doesn’t happen. It’s hard to imagine that not so long ago surfing was a secret.
Lifers
Since surfing has been with us for a few years, surfers are of all ages ... from 6 to 70. Like rock music, it isn’t an adolescent pastime anymore. I’m 48. Twenty years ago, that was pretty old in any lineup. However, I’ve