Art of the Buckle
By Jim Arndt and Mary Emmerling
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About this ebook
Emmerling and Arndt team up for their fifth book celebrating the art of things people love to collect. Here they bring us fabulous belt buckles from vintage collectibles, trophy buckles, beaded and bejeweled varieties, ranger sets, and classy contemporary designs, all celebrating the fascination with beautiful buckle art. Cowboys and Indians, arrows, horses and longhorns aplenty, sweet hearts, and plenty of other icons decorate these fashionable pieces. And it wouldn’t be complete without a nod to the artists who created them.
Jim Arndt is the author of How to Be a Cowboy and coauthor with Mary Emmerling of Art of the Cross, Art of Turquoise, Art of the Skull and Art of the Heart. He coauthored several Cowboy Boot books. He lives in Santa Fe.
Mary Emmerling is the best-selling author of more than 25 books. She was the creative director of Country Home Magazine for ten years. She hosted HGTV’s Country At Home show, worked as the decorating editor for House Beautiful, and was editor-in-chief of her own Mary Emmerling Country Magazine for the New York Times. She now lives in Santa Fe. She coauthored Art of the Heart, Art of the Skull, Art of the Cross and Art of Turquoise with Jim Arndt.
Jim Arndt
Jim Arndt is nationally recognized photographer, with many books to his credit including Art of the Boot, The Cowboy Boot Book, and 100 Years of Western Wear. His work has been published and exhibited internationally.
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Art of the Buckle - Jim Arndt
& StonesResourcesAcknowledgments
Introduction
Throughout the centuries, men have usually needed an accessory of some type to hold up their trousers. In the cowboy culture, suspenders were practical for vigorous outdoor work, while belts were not.
However, styles began to change in the 1920s with the advent of the rodeo trophy buckle. These were costly to make, so being awarded a championship or commemorative buckle was like winning a pot of gold! This was the beginning of the buckle as a statement of pride among working cowboys, an icon that said, Here I am. I’m a winner, a force to be reckoned with!
Such big, flashy buckles weren’t for everyday; they were for best dress, for wearing to the Saturday-night dance in town.
Buckles entered the mainstream popular culture via Hollywood film star cowboys of the 1930s and ’40s, and pretty soon wannabe cowboy kids could buy a ranger set with a holster and cap gun at the five and dime. Big boys were attracted to big buckles, too. Here was another accessory that one could give a man besides a tie or belt. Silversmiths and jewelry makers put artistry into one-of-a-kind and custom buckles, spinning out a fabulous genre of gentlemen’s jewelry.
The buckles we see today are the creations of numerous extremely talented artists, jewelers, silversmiths, bead workers and leather workers. If you can think of a buckle that would be just your style or bear icons that show people who you are, there is a buckle artist who can create your dream and bring your message forward. Although there are tens of thousands of buckles out there, some of my favorites are from when my love for the art of the buckle began.
When I met my cowboy, Reg Jackson, who grew up in the West, he showed me his rodeo buckles, western fringe jackets, bandanas, cowboy belts, and Navajo silver jewelry. I was hooked! I started looking for and collecting rodeo buckles and belts. I loved the trophy buckles that had bucking horses, bulls, ropers, and barrel racers—all of which were highly engraved or inlaid with gems or from towns that I loved visiting.
I had spent a lot of time going to Cheyenne Frontier Days in Wyoming, shooting my American Country West book. On the other end of the spectrum, I even attended the Rodeo Days in Montauk, Long Island, New York. In every magazine—from Vogue, English Vogue, and Côté Sud to House and Garden—I would look for fabulous layouts on western clothes and settings.
Then I met my favorite French cowgirl, Nathalie Kent, and was also introduced to Jim Arndt, who had shot a lot of the western commercials and ads. Nathalie and Jim were both fabulously well dressed in Santa Fe western style, and Nathalie had a namesake store in Santa Fe, where she sold a lot of clothing and jewelry of the type they wore. I started shopping there, as well. I would wear my turquoise jewelry everywhere I went, but in New York, people would ask, Have you been out West?
When I flew on airlines and had my rodeo buckle on, I would be asked, What’s your best time?
I love all of my collections now, starting with rodeo buckles, ranger sets, conchos, trophy buckles, denim, Chimayo weavings, cowboy boots, Levi’s, bandanas, cowboy hats, turquoise jewelry, coats, and RRL and RL clothes that I have worn since Ralph Lauren’s first western collection entered the market in 1978. I look for buckles at all the antique shows, flea markets and antique malls. What do I look for? Definitely I look for buckles that commemorate cities, ranches, or other places; that have people’s names or initials; and I look for buckles with stones. I like the buckles BIG!
Now that you know all the details, which style of