Seaside Walks on Vancouver Island

1. KEEHA BEACH

A challenging, hate-it-or-love-it trek through dense, mud-prone coastal rainforest to a magically isolated stretch of exposed ocean beach.

Start: As you approach Bamfield, turn left onto South Bamfield Road and follow it a short distance. Park in a small area on the right-hand side of the road about 400 m before the trailhead (though you can drop off/pick up at the trailhead).

Difficulty: Some call this the gumboot trail because it has many extremely muddy sections. Be prepared to climb over fallen logs and roots. Psych yourself up to enjoy the obstacle course of a fairytale tangle of twisted trees or you may become frustrated by the slow going. Plan to take the better part of a day.

The surf can be dangerously large here, though in summer months it is usually low to moderate. (5)

The first part of the trail, starting near some houses, is deceptively easy. Be prepared for wood to be slippery, however, particularly if you have Vibram soles (though waterproofs are probably the best footwear). At very high tides you will have to skirt through some trees behind a short section of shore that is normally the easier route. Before long you will come to the infamous mud, though at the end of a dry summer it can be minimal.

About 1.6 km along the trail (it will seem much farther), you will come to a junction with a simple sign and usually a bit of flagging tape pointing to the right to Cape Beale, some 4.5 km down this trail. (See the Options section below.)

Soon you get your first glimpses of Kichha Lake on your right (300 m). The trail approaches the shoreline of the 1-km-long lake primarily at its southern end. Don’t expect a spot suitable for picnicking or swimming, though.

Once you cross a boardwalk/floating bridge, the route begins a challenging ascent of the hill between you and the shore. The trail here is particularly prone to fallen logs. Once you have ascended about 30 m, the track descends; there are some ropes installed here to help when the going gets slippery. By now you will probably become aware of the roar of the surf, indicating the proximity of the beach.

Only a few minutes are required to reach the beach from the bottom of the hill. Note the bear cache, a metal structure for storing food safely for those planning to spend the night here.

You can explore the entire 1.7-km length of the beach. Probably the prettiest views (including a sea arch) and the best walking are along the southeast end, to your left. There is usually a small stream here, if you need water and are prepared to treat it. Look for cougar and bear tracks in the sand. Keep your eyes seaward, too, for migrating grey whales, especially in spring and fall when they come in close to the shore to feed.

Return by the same route.

OPTIONS

From the same trailhead, instead of going straight ahead at the signposted junction, turn right to hike to Tapaltos Beach along a muddy 1-km trail with scrambles over and under fallen trees. Tapaltos Bay itself is about 1 km long.

At the south end of Tapaltos, a few fishing buoys in the trees mark the beginning of another trail, to Cape Beale lighthouse on a rocky bluff about 50 m above crashing waves. This trail too is muddy, and more strenuous than the first section to Tapaltos Bay, rising and descending over a fairly rocky hill. You will need to balance along logs, crawl under and over deadfall and keep an eye on your route by looking for flagging tape. There is no significant beach at Cape Beale, but there are great views from the lighthouse if the tide is low enough to get out to it over a small stretch of sand. Distance from the trailhead is 6 km.

2. PACHENA POINT LIGHTHOUSE

The first stage of the world-famous West Coast Trail: deep west-coast forest, large trees, historical shipwreck sites. Good viewing spot for hundreds of sea lions on wave-swept rocks. Pachena Point lighthouse.

Start: From Port Alberni, follow the signs to Bamfield. After about 85 km, instead of going into Bamfield at a sharp right-hand turn, follow the sign to the West Coast Trail and arrive at the signposted parking area after 500 m.

Difficulty: This is mostly an old roadbed. It is in large part a broad, generally even surface with only gradual and moderate elevation changes. Bridges make stream crossings easy. The only challenge comes with the length. The optional side trails can involve some fairly steep