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Computer Technology for Textiles and Apparel
Автор: Elsevier Science
Активность, связанная с книгой
Начать чтениеДлина: 702 стр.
- Издатель:
- Elsevier Science
- Издано:
- Jul 14, 2011
- ISBN:
- 9780857093608
- Формат:
- Книге
Описание
Computer technology has transformed textiles from their design through to their manufacture and has contributed to significant advances in the textile industry. Computer technology for textiles and apparel provides an overview of these innovative developments for a wide range of applications, covering topics including structure and defect analysis, modelling and simulation, and apparel design.
The book is divided into three parts. Part one provides a review of different computer-based technologies suitable for textile materials, and includes chapters on computer technology for yarn and fabric structure analysis, defect analysis and measurement. Chapters in part two discuss modelling and simulation principles of fibres, yarns, textiles and garments, while part three concludes with a review of computer-based technologies specific to apparel and apparel design, with themes ranging from 3D body scanning to the teaching of computer-aided design to fashion students.
With its distinguished editor and international team of expert contributors, Computer technology for textiles and apparel is an invaluable tool for a wide range of people involved in the textile industry, from designers and manufacturers to fibre scientists and quality inspectors. Provides an overview of innovative developments in computer technology for a wide range of applications Covers structure and defect analysis, modelling and simulation and apparel design Themes range from 3D body scanning to the teaching of computer-aided design to fashion students
The book is divided into three parts. Part one provides a review of different computer-based technologies suitable for textile materials, and includes chapters on computer technology for yarn and fabric structure analysis, defect analysis and measurement. Chapters in part two discuss modelling and simulation principles of fibres, yarns, textiles and garments, while part three concludes with a review of computer-based technologies specific to apparel and apparel design, with themes ranging from 3D body scanning to the teaching of computer-aided design to fashion students.
With its distinguished editor and international team of expert contributors, Computer technology for textiles and apparel is an invaluable tool for a wide range of people involved in the textile industry, from designers and manufacturers to fibre scientists and quality inspectors. Provides an overview of innovative developments in computer technology for a wide range of applications Covers structure and defect analysis, modelling and simulation and apparel design Themes range from 3D body scanning to the teaching of computer-aided design to fashion students
Активность, связанная с книгой
Начать чтениеСведения о книге
Computer Technology for Textiles and Apparel
Автор: Elsevier Science
Длина: 702 стр.
Описание
Computer technology has transformed textiles from their design through to their manufacture and has contributed to significant advances in the textile industry. Computer technology for textiles and apparel provides an overview of these innovative developments for a wide range of applications, covering topics including structure and defect analysis, modelling and simulation, and apparel design.
The book is divided into three parts. Part one provides a review of different computer-based technologies suitable for textile materials, and includes chapters on computer technology for yarn and fabric structure analysis, defect analysis and measurement. Chapters in part two discuss modelling and simulation principles of fibres, yarns, textiles and garments, while part three concludes with a review of computer-based technologies specific to apparel and apparel design, with themes ranging from 3D body scanning to the teaching of computer-aided design to fashion students.
With its distinguished editor and international team of expert contributors, Computer technology for textiles and apparel is an invaluable tool for a wide range of people involved in the textile industry, from designers and manufacturers to fibre scientists and quality inspectors. Provides an overview of innovative developments in computer technology for a wide range of applications Covers structure and defect analysis, modelling and simulation and apparel design Themes range from 3D body scanning to the teaching of computer-aided design to fashion students
The book is divided into three parts. Part one provides a review of different computer-based technologies suitable for textile materials, and includes chapters on computer technology for yarn and fabric structure analysis, defect analysis and measurement. Chapters in part two discuss modelling and simulation principles of fibres, yarns, textiles and garments, while part three concludes with a review of computer-based technologies specific to apparel and apparel design, with themes ranging from 3D body scanning to the teaching of computer-aided design to fashion students.
With its distinguished editor and international team of expert contributors, Computer technology for textiles and apparel is an invaluable tool for a wide range of people involved in the textile industry, from designers and manufacturers to fibre scientists and quality inspectors. Provides an overview of innovative developments in computer technology for a wide range of applications Covers structure and defect analysis, modelling and simulation and apparel design Themes range from 3D body scanning to the teaching of computer-aided design to fashion students
- Издатель:
- Elsevier Science
- Издано:
- Jul 14, 2011
- ISBN:
- 9780857093608
- Формат:
- Книге
Связано с Computer Technology for Textiles and Apparel
Отрывок книги
Computer Technology for Textiles and Apparel
Tobler
Introduction
J. Hu, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong
The textile and apparel industry comprises a complex network of interrelated sectors that produce fibers, spin yarns, fabricate cloth, and dye/finish/ print and manufacture apparel. Computer technology is one of the most important tools contributing to the significant advancement of this industry. The transition towards digital solutions and computerization is an irreversible trend today and will accelerate in the future.
Scope of computer-based technology for textile applications
Just as in many other industries, computer-based technology in textile applications may be divided into many branches and sub-branches in terms of its applications. Generally speaking, there are three terms that are frequently used: (1) CAD (computer aided design), (2) CAM (computer aided manufacturing), and (3) CIM (computer integrated manufacturing). Furthermore, CAT (computer aided testing) is also used for applications of computer-based technology for quality evaluation and control as well as information management. Although it is difficult to summarize all the industrial applications based on computer technology alone, it is possible for us to describe some typical applications in these fields.
CAD has become particularly important for textiles and apparel design. It has been widely used in the design of yarns, fabrics and garments. CAD technology enables textile designers to develop and demonstrate virtual samples on the computer screen and to simulate the appearance of textile products without wasting materials and manufacturing processes. The development of CAD technology over the past decades has the advantages of lower product development costs and a greatly shortened design cycle with increased creative variation. These achievements have encouraged and simplified textile and garment manufacturing, material utilization, easier customization, and mass production.
CAM can be defined as the computer technology used for controlling textile manufacturing processes. Computer-based textile machines are used to support spinning, weaving, knitting, printing or finishing processes through programmable controllers, industrial computers, data gateways, cell controllers, data acquisition, batch controllers, and drive master controllers. CAM is one of the key parts of the computer integrated manufacturing (CIM) system.
CIM is the manufacturing approach of using computers to control the entire production process, typically relying on closed-loop control processes and based on real-time input from sensors. This allows individual processes to exchange information with each other and to initiate actions including planning, management and production. The final target of CIM is mainly to provide a digital platform of process control and information communication for textile design, manufacturing, testing, quality control and final product marketing/retailing. Through CIM, manufacturing can be faster and less error-prone, as well as easier to manage. Another term that may be related to CIM is CAE (computer aided engineering), which is a general term including all the engineering work based on computer equipment and technology used for the modernization of the textile industry.
CAT (computer aided testing) provides a digital and automatic solution for quality testing, evaluation and control of textile processing and products by using computer-related testing techniques, such as computer vision and artificial intelligence. In the textile industry, testing traditionally relies on heavily subjective estimation Without objective testing instruments. Computer aided testing technology and methods have been used to replace these traditional subjective evaluation methods.
In addition, textile products can also be components of electrical devices and sensors used for data acquisition and information media, and could be developed as intelligent sensing, monitoring and control units worn on the human body. We call these E-textiles. For example, the development of wearable computers is one typical application, which integrates textile and computer technologies into one wearable and controllable device embedded in different functional garments. E-textiles constitute a new direction for computer-based technology which has undergone rapid development in recent years. The integration and embedding of electronic sensors and controlling units can offer clothes higher levels of functionality than common garments. It can provide information exchange between wearers and the monitoring system. Thus an E-textile solution can establish a wearable computational linked system and wearable electronic textiles can be worn in everyday situations. Computer and textile products will be merged seamlessly in the future.
Thus digital technology for textiles is broad in its scope. Loosely speaking, it refers to the utilization of computer hardware, software, networking, soft computing technology, robotics, and wearable sensing, monitoring and controlling technology directly or indirectly for textiles. Typical applications of computer technologies for textiles and apparel are illustrated in Fig. I.1, which includes the CAD for product design, CAM technology for product manufacture and CAT for the quality testing and evaluation of product, while E-Textiles are a new technology focused on the development of wearable computing devices directly used for the textile and apparel.
I.1 Scope of digital technology for textiles and apparel.
Objectives of the book
The history of computer-based technology for the textile industry can be traced back to 1801 when Joseph Marie Jacquard invented the first automatic weaving machine by introducing a series of punched paper cards which allowed the loom to weave intricate patterns. The invention of the Jacquard loom (Fig. I.2) was an important step in the development of computers. The use of punched cards to define woven patterns can be viewed as an early, albeit limited, form of programmability. Thus, the Jacquard loom could be considered as the grandfather of computer-based machinery
I.2 Jacquard loom on display at the Manchester Museum of Science and Industry. Photograph taken by George H. Williams in July 2004.
Another interesting illustration of the close relationship between computers and textiles is that textile products such as woven materials have a binary interlacing format through weaving of warp and weft yarns. This binary interlacing format is based on the warp lifting which provides a channel for the weft inserting motion. This has its origins in the key motions of the weaving machine: shedding and weft insertion. From this point of view, the ancient weaving principle has led to the modern computing strategy and textile products could be considered as the prototype of binary materials as the media of information recording.
Now, however, computing technologies have become independent and have dominated human civilization over the past 50 years, while applications of computer technology to textiles and apparel have now extended to areas including design, machinery, manufacturing, integrated production control and management, information management, quality testing and evaluation, and tools for marketing and retailing. This is a typical example demonstrating the value, efficiency and effectiveness of computer science and technology while practical problems and market requirements presented by consumers, textile engineers and scientists trigger the development of new computer-based technologies. As the cost of computers has fallen dramatically, their functions have increased with powerful algorithms, and software systems, and academic works from both textile scientists and computer scientists have provided stronger support for the application of computer technology in the textile industry. Computer-based technology for textiles and apparel will therefore be even more important than ever before.
Thus, an understanding of the advances and principles of these computer based technologies used in the modern textile industry is very necessary for both textile technologists and scientists to develop their abilities and utilize these techniques in their practical operations. A comprehensive review of computer-based technologies for textiles and apparel can provide professionals with guidelines. Thus this book has been intended to cater for the above needs. It has three parts and 15 chapters which cover various aspects of computer-based technologies for the textile industry including CAD, CAM and CAT. It consists of theories, principles, methodologies, applications, education, current status and future trends of computer-based technologies used in these fields. This book is beneficial to academics as well as practitioners in their research and daily work
Arrangement of the contents
Part I deals with computer-based technology for textile materials. Quality assurance for textiles is vital for business competitive advantage. Traditional subjective evaluation methods and equipment have been found to be slow, fatiguing, subjective and inconsistent. To improve the automation and accuracy of quality testing and evaluation of textile products, objective methods and systems based on artificial intelligence and computer vision have been developed and utilized for the inspection of defects, appearance and other attributes. Thus in Part I of the book, we have three chapters which review the methods and theories for developing evaluation systems for defects and appearance attributes of yarns and fabrics. In particular, Chapter 1 presents the recent developments of digital technologies for yarn structure and appearance analysis. In Chapter 2, a new digital method based on the dual side scanning and active grid model (AGM) is introduced, with some experiments and discussions, which demonstrate the means of identifying the weave pattern of woven fabrics. The third chapter provides an overview of the open problems, the state-of-the-art in fabric defect detection and classification techniques, and points out the potential of the new technologies that could make low-cost robust defect detection a reality for textile industries.
Part II examines modeling and simulation of textiles and garments, which can help with increasing industrial competitiveness through reduction of design, manufacturing and validation cycle time. This can lead to the availability of virtual design assessment, or the ability to evaluate the problem entirely in a computer without carrying out time-consuming experiments. In many application areas, accurate simulations are routinely obtained using high performance computers while others are, at best, qualitative and capable of describing only trends in physical events. Modeling of textile structures coupled with computer technology has become an enabling discipline that has led to greater understanding of textile physics and structures and advances in computer software systems. In Part II, we have five chapters by leading experts in their areas:
• Key techniques for 3D garment design
• Modelling and simulation of fibrous yarn materials
• Digital technology and modeling for fabric structures
• Modeling ballistic impact on textile materials
• Modeling and simulation techniques for garments.
The first of these (Chapter 4) discusses three topics related to recent advances in computer technologies for textiles and apparel. These include sketch-based modeling, surface flattening and problems/solutions for an
online garment-shopping system. The corresponding implementations are highlighted for evaluating the performance of the algorithms and/or techniques.
Theoretical modeling of yarn and fabric materials has contributed to the development of CAD software for textile materials by providing simulation methods for modeling of yarn segments. The research into this topic mainly concerns the geometrical definition of yarn and fabric structure and appearance based on their physical parameters. Chen’s chapter introduces various methods for modeling and simulation of yarn and fabric structures
In Chapter 6 by Baciu, Zheng and Hu, fabric geometry structure in two dimensional space is modeled. The interlacing rules and their representation of the weave pattern are investigated. Experimental results are shown on 2D fabric weave pattern description in terms of main characteristic perception, indexing and classification in the fabric design domain and the information technology domain. Future research directions in this area are also noted.
For textile-based ballistic products under extreme environmental conditions, computational model experiments can be a cost-effective option compared to laboratory experiments; thus expensive live-fire tests can be culled and used only for validation purposes. The capability of these experiments to virtually simulate the physical impact event has been demonstrated in detail. Chapter 7, by Risby and Hamouda, presents methods for modeling and simulation to assess the ballistic impact of fabrics. The modeling and simulation of single-layer and multi-layers fabric provide a mathematical and virtual way to predict the ballistic impact of fabrics.
Chapter 8 reviews the three approaches for modeling garments: geometry-based, physically-based and hybrid. Computer graphics techniques and collision detection methods are then described for interactive garment simulation. The future development of modeling and simulation of garment materials are included at the end of the chapter.
In Part III, Computer-based technology for apparel, comprising Chapters 9 to 15, we have a more diversified content relating to soft and practical aspects of apparel, which include the views of strategists, practitioners and educators.
With the introduction of CAD and its many software capabilities, the entire process of designing a fabric has been revolutionized to replace traditional hand producing: where previously designers labored over graph paper and stencils, now they simply play with a mouse or stylus pen to produce innovative designs.
Baciu and Liang’s chapter discusses the principles of human computer interaction and its usage in textiles as CAD systems. New features for the future development of garment design systems are highlighted, such as sketch interface, gesture-based interaction, shape retrieval and dynamic association, as well as garment database management. In Faust and Carrier’s chapter, Hong Kong Generation Y females’ body perception and virtual visualization is demonstrated. They believe, after being 3D body scanned, that a smart card with their body measurements would improve their garment shopping experience.
Chapter 11 by Ujiie discusses computer technologies used in the domain of textile design from the textile designer’s perspective. In this case, computer technologies are tools for (1) information gathering, (2) designing, (3) design editing and (4) presentation in textile design workflows. The benefits and limitations are also explained from the initial design concept to final production and presentation.
We have selected digital printing as an example to demonstrate the application of CAM to textiles and apparel. Tyler’s Chapter 12 reviews the role of textile digital printing from the perspective of product development and effective communication across the supply chain.
In addition to the technical chapters in the book, we have one chapter – Chapter 13 by Hui – which aims to review current pedagogic approaches in the teaching and learning of computer-based technologies, particularly CAD systems, in responding to the main challenges such as the rapid changes of industry needs and wants, computer technology, and the global working environment for fashion and textiles, as well as the non-Sandard-ization of jargon used in fashion and textiles.
Chapter 14 provides an overview of the technologies used for 3D apparel CAD systems. It points out that research continues in the development of more realistic and mechanically accurate models, and completed models may be integrated with 3D garment design, visualization and 3D fabric modeling to create a truly interactive 3D product development and marketing tool.
In the final chapter, by Lamar, the role of digital technology is examined in enabling a design and development process integrating the functions of both textile and apparel creation. First, digitally enabled processes integrating design of textiles and design of apparel simultaneously are discussed, including examples of garments developed through integrated processes. The focus of the chapter then shifts specifically to the role of computer aided design (CAD) and visualization technologies in enabling an integrated digital process, and concludes with discussion of future directions.
Part I
Computer-based technology for textile materials
1
Digital technology for yarn structure and appearance analysis
B.G. Xu, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong
Abstract:
Yarn structure and appearance are important characteristics in yarn quality assessment and assurance. This chapter presents the recent developments of digital technologies for yarn structure and appearance analysis. The chapter broadly reviews the latest advances that have been made in digital measurement and analysis of yarn evenness, yarn hairiness, yarn twist, yarn snarl, yarn blend and yarn surface appearance.
Key words
yarn structure
yarn appearance
yarn assessment
yarn image processing
digital signal processing
1.1 Introduction
Yarn is used worldwide for making a wide range of textiles and apparel. Its structure and appearance have significant influence on the properties and performance of the yarn and its end-products. Therefore, the analysis of yarn structure and appearance is an important need and procedure in assessing yarn quality in the textile industry. Traditionally yarn structure and appearance are evaluated subjectively by manual methods, but some of the methods are subjective, less reliable and labour intensive. With the rapid development of computer technology, efficient and low-cost techniques have been established for the accurate image acquisition and massive image storage. At the same time, image processing, computer vision and pattern recognition have achieved their respective high levels of progress. Those developments in digital technology bring new data acquisition apparatus, new data analysis and recognition approaches, thus providing an alternative objective method for yarn feature analysis. A generic diagram of digitalized yarn feature analysis is shown in Fig. 1.1.
1.1 A generic diagram of digitalized yarn feature analysis.
In this chapter, we will present the state-of-the-art digital technologies for yarn structure and appearance analysis. More specifically, we look into the latest developments in yarn evenness measurement, yarn hairiness analysis, yarn twist and snarl measurements, yarn blend analysis and yarn surface appearance grading (Sections 1.2–1.7). Afterwards, we will discuss the future trend of this area in Section 1.8. Concluding remarks are drawn in Section 1.9.
1.2 Measurement of yarn evenness
Consistent yarn thickness is essential for the high quality of textile products. For many years, yarn irregularity has been measured by the capacitance evenness tester using two parallel capacitive sensors. The capacitance based method is accurate and stable in yarn mass measurement and has been well accepted in the textile industry for decades. Nevertheless this method can only give a rough description of yarn irregularity in diameter. Optical measurement alternatively provides a more accurate method in determining the yarn diameter and its variation by using optical sensors. As the diameter of a yarn is measured, the optical based method is not affected by moisture content or fibre blend variations in the yarn. The Uster evenness tester and the Zweigle G580 are two representative instruments commercially used in the textile industry for the capacitive and optical measurements of yarn evenness, respectively.
Recent developments in capacitive and optical measurements, along with the digital signal processing of analysis, make the yarn evenness results more practical and sensible. For instance, Rong and Slater (1995) developed a microcomputer system using digital signal processing for yarn unevenness analysis. In this system, the analogue signal of the diameters of a single yarn, measured by the Uster Tester, was converted into a digital form and then further analyzed by means of frequency spectrum analysis techniques. In addition to the traditional statistical parameters for characterizing irregularity, yarn unevenness could be assessed by using the probability density function, which was known to be closely correlated with fabric appearance quality. Based on the capacitive principle, Carvalho et al. (2006) also developed a new system for accurate yarn thickness and evenness measurement by using capacitive sensors and digital signal processing techniques. In comparison to commercial instruments, this system enabled direct measurement of yarn mass with a high resolution of 1 mm in yarn length. With the accurate measurements of yarn mass, some signal processing algorithms, such as FFT (Fast Fourier Transform) and FWHT (Fast Walsh–Hadamard Transform), were employed to detect a wide range of yarn faults in lengths of 1 mm and
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