A Guide to Finishing Furniture - Including Chapters on, Spraying, Opaque and Transparent Finishes
By B. W. Pelton
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A Guide to Finishing Furniture - Including Chapters on, Spraying, Opaque and Transparent Finishes - B. W. Pelton
FURNITURE FINISHING
ALTHOUGH in his selection of woods the amateur craftsman is likely to be more keenly conscious of grains and patterns than the average furniture owner, it often happens that he becomes so immersed in his hobby of construction and joinery that the matter of finish receives but scant consideration, or becomes confused by well-meant advice. While it is true that the most expert finishing schedule cannot make a silk purse out of a second-rate cabinetmaking job or inferior materials, nevertheless a good finish can cover a multitude of sins. This is particularly true of enameled, lacquered, or decorated surfaces, where a liberal use of crack filler can be rendered invisible under a smooth opaque film. All furniture finishes can be roughly divided into two main processes, the opaque finish, whose purpose is to hide, and the transparent finish, which is used to reveal and enhance the natural grain of the wood. Before discussing either of these procedures, however, there are several general requirements common to all types of finish that should be introduced.
Preparing the Surface. Any finishing schedule will be greatly facilitated if each member of the piece has been thoroughly sanded prior to assembly. Otherwise considerable difficulty may be experienced in smoothing down inaccessible parts such as inset rails, panel corners, turnings, or carvings.
As emphasized in Chapter 1, the final sanding of fine cabinetwork should employ a fine abrasive, not coarser than a 3/0 garnet finishing paper. For rounded and inaccessible surfaces such as carvings, No. 00 steel wool is more flexible, although it does not cut as well. No. 6/0 waterproof paper and water are used between coats, and No. 1/2 pumice stone lubricated by water is favored for rubbing the final coat, rather than for use on a raw wood surface.
Absolute cleanliness must be achieved before the application of any finish coat is even contemplated. After all possible sanding dust has been removed with a soft dusting brush or compressed air, the parts should be wiped with a lintless rag moistened with turpentine, benzine, naptha or lacquer thinner. A light wash of this nature also insures that the work will be free from grease, much of which may consist of invisible deposits that occur in handling.
As will be discussed under varnish finishing, the sanding dust composed of chisel edge made by trimming the ends of the bristles. This practice removes the paint-holding flag ends that are visible in brushes of good quality. Brushes come with varying bristle lengths, the longer ones holding more fluid but affording less control.
Care of Brushes. Much time, money, and irritation can be saved by the proper care and cleaning of finishing and painting brushes. Because of the different liquid vehicles involved, separate brushes should be reserved for enamel, paint, lacquer, varnish, shellac, and stains. The best policy is to clean each brush immediately after using it and prepare it for dry storage or hang it in its proper liquid for further use.
The proper cleaning solvent will depend upon the finish used; paint and varnish brushes can be cleaned with turpentine or benzine, but shellac brushes are cleaned with denatured alcohol, and lacquer brushes with lacquer thinner. Water stains can of course be cleaned off with water, but non-grain-raising stains require a special solvent issued by the manufacturer. Whatever the solvent used, it should be worked in all the way up to the heel of the brush with the fingers, if necessary, and applied unstintingly. A steel brush or an old table fork will be found useful for loosening up any gummy