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    Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Five, Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes
    Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Five, Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes
    Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Five, Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes
    Ebook124 pages44 minutes

    Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Five, Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes

    By Doris Anderson

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    About this ebook

    Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateSep 6, 2016
    ISBN9781473355385
    Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Five, Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes
    Author

    Doris Anderson

    Doris Anderson has taught thousands of students--many haunted by secrets just like Annie’s--during her long teaching career. When her own children were young, she learned how important horses can be for young people. Anderson has published plays to help teenagers with life issues. She lives in Southern California.

    Read more from Doris Anderson

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      Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Five, Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes - Doris Anderson

      Buttonholes

      Bound Buttonholes

      Buttonholes are meant to be either functional or decorative. A functional buttonhole is one that is used as a closing of the garment; while a decorative one is placed strategically, is accompanied by a decorative button and serves as the major accent of the garment. Whether functional or decorative, buttonholes must be attractive and therefore must be perfectly constructed. The few important steps upon which this depends are clearly defined under Construction of Bound Buttonholes.

      Fig. 1

      Fig. 2

      The most widely used buttonhole in women’s apparel is the bound buttonhole; it is the most attractive and is always used when the buttonhole is to serve a decorative purpose. It can be made in all types of fabric without difficulty, although it should not be made in garments of transparent material. In fact, no buttonhole should ever be made in a transparent fabric, since it is too sheer for such a tailored construction, and the buttonhole would not be in harmony with the material. This holds for blouses as well as other garments; select a style that does not call for this construction.

      Although there are several techniques for making a bound buttonhole, the welt method has been selected for this text because it is the strongest and the simplest type, and because it takes less time to construct.

      Size of Button: Before the buttons can be selected and the buttonholes made, the size of the button must be determined. The maximum size that can be used on the garment depends upon the pattern, since the spacing of the button is made in the drafting of the pattern.

      To learn the requirements of the pattern you must first analyze the type of facing that is used and decide what line will become the finished edge of the garment. There are two types of facings: the attached facing and the applied facing. The attached facing and the garment section it is to face are cut as one. The facing is turned to the inside and the line on which it is folded becomes the finished edge of the garment. In construction this line is referred to as the fold line. Fig. 1. The applied facing is a separate section, which is stitched to the garment and then turned to the inside on the seam line. In this construction the seam line is the finished edge of the garment. Fig. 2.

      Fig. 3

      Fig. 4

      To determine the largest size button you can use, measure the pattern from the marking for the buttonhole to the line that will become the finished edge of the garment. Fig. 3. Subtract 1/4-inch from this measurement and your result will be one-half the width of the largest button you can use on that garment. When an allowance of 1/4-inch is made there will be a 1/4-inch space from the edge of the button to the edge of the garment when the garment is closed. Fig. 4(A). If a larger button is used than this measurement allows, the button will overlap the edge of the garment and obviously will look wrong. Fig. 4(B).

      Size of Buttonholes: To determine the length of the buttonhole, measure the diameter of the button and to this measurement add 1/8-inch. A thick button requires a longer buttonhole than a thin one; in this case, measure the diameter of the button plus one-half its depth, plus 1/8-inch.

      The width of the buttonhole should be 1/4-inch; if it exceeds this width it looks clumsily and poorly made. If the length of the buttonhole is less than 3/4-inch, make it 1/8-inch wide.

      The length and width of each buttonhole must be so exact that one does not vary so much as the width of a thread from the other. You can attain accuracy by counting the number of stitches that will give you the length and width needed. For example, if you are stitching with twelve stitches on your machine and your buttonhole must be 1 1/4-inches long, you will stitch 15 stitches to give you the length and 3 stitches to give the width required. If you are stitching with 16 stitches on your machine for the same length buttonhole you must have 20 stitches for the length and 4 stitches to give the 1/4-inch width required. Count your stitches as you stitch each buttonhole and make each with the same number of stitches.

      Spacing Buttonholes: Buttonholes must not only be equal in width and length, but the distance between must also be precisely accurate. The markings transferred to the material from the pattern by means of tailors’ tacks are not sufficiently exact to be used as a correct marking when more than two buttonholes are used in succession.

      When the button closing is down the center-front or center-back, the buttonholes must begin on the center-front or center-back line. In the finished garment it is very apparent if the closing is off-center; often the pattern markings must be disregarded in order for the buttonholes to be started on the center line.

      To provide a greater overlap in the front, often with men’s pajamas and sometimes with women’s coats, the buttonholes are marked beyond the center-front line toward the edge of the garment; the buttons in this case would be sewed beyond the center-front toward the inside of the garment, so that when the garment is closed the front lines coincide. When the space between the line of the buttonholes and the center-front is not great enough to make the line significant and interesting, the buttons look misplaced, except in

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