Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

Romania & Bulgaria

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Romania & Bulgaria's Top 17

Welcome to Romania

Need to Know

If You Like

Month by Month

Itineraries

Regions at a Glance

Welcome to Bulgaria

Need to Know

If You Like

Month by Month

Itineraries

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Bucharest

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Snagov Lake

Wallachia

Ploiesti

Targoviste

Pitesti

Curtea de Arges

Craiova

Drobeta-Turnu Severin

Transylvania

Transylvania Highlights

Prahova Valley

Sinaia

Bucegi Mountains

Predeal

Brasov

Around Brasov

Bran

Poiana Brasov

Zarnesti

Harman & Prejmer

Saxon Land

Sighisoara

Fortified Saxon Villages

Fagaras Mountains

Sibiu

Around Sibiu

Szekely Land

Sfantu Gheorghe

Miercurea Ciuc

Gheorgheni

Odorheiu Secuiesc

Odorheiu Secuiesc to Targu Mures

Targu Mures

Southwest Transylvania

Alba Iulia

Deva

Retezat Mountains

Northern Transylvania

Cluj-Napoca

Turda

Huedin Microregion

Apuseni Mountains

Bistrita

Crisana & Banat

Crisana & Banat Highlights

Banat

Timisoara

Crisana

Oradea

Baile Felix

Arad

Maramures

Baia Mare

Around Baia Mare

Tara Chioarului

Sighetu Marmatiei

Mara Valley

Sapanta

Iza Valley

Viseu & Vaser Valleys

Borsa

Moldavia & the Bucovina Monasteries

Moldavia & the Bucovina Monasteries Highlights

Moldavia

Iasi

Targu Neamt & Around

Piatra Neamt

Ceahlau National Park

Bucovina

Suceava

Bucovina Monasteries

The Danube Delta & Black Sea Coast

Tulcea

Sulina

Sfantu Gheorghe

Constanta

Mamaia

Vama Veche

Sofia

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Boyana

Vitosha Nature Park

Plovdiv & the Southern Mountains

Plovdiv & the Southern Mountains Highlights

Rila Mountains

Rila Village

Rila Monastery

Borovets

Pirin Mountains

Blagoevgrad

Bansko

Melnik

Bulgarian Thrace

Plovdiv

Rodopi Mountains

Chepelare

Pamporovo

Smolyan

Devin

Veliko Tarnovo & Central Mountains

Shumen

Madara

Veliko Tarnovo

Around Veliko Tarnovo

Dryanovo Monastery

Tryavna

Etar

Lovech

Troyan

Hisar

Karlovo

Kazanlak

Shipka

Stara Zagora

Sliven

Black Sea Coast

Black Sea Coast Highlights

Southern Coast

Burgas

Sozopol

Primorsko

Tsarevo

Sinemorets

Central Coast

Pomorie

Nesebar

Northern Coast

Varna

Sveti Konstantin

Balchik

The Danube & Northern Plains

Vratsa & Around

Chiprovtsi

Belogradchik

Ruse

Rusenski Lom Nature Park

Lake Srebarna & Around

Silistra

Understand

Understand Romania

Romania Today

History

The Dracula Myth

Outdoor Activities & Wildlife

Visual Arts & Folk Culture

The Romanian People

The Romanian Kitchen

Understand Bulgaria

Bulgaria Today

History

Outdoor Activities & Wildlife

Visual Arts, Craft & Music

The Bulgarian People

Bulgarian Wine

Bulgarian Cuisine

Survive

Directory AZ

Accommodation

Children

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food & Drink

GLBTI Travellers

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Travellers with Disabilities

Visas

Volunteering

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Language

Directory AZ

Accommodation

Children

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food & Drink

GLBTI Travellers

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Travellers with Disabilities

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Romania & Bulgaria's Top 17

Palace of Parliament, Bucharest

Depending on your point of view, the Palace of Parliament is either a mind-blowing testament to the waste and folly of dictatorship or an awe-inspiring showcase of Romanian materials and craftsmanship, albeit applied to sinister ends. Most visitors conclude that it's a bit of both. Whatever emotions the former ‘House of the People’ happens to elicit, the sheer scale of Romania's entry into the 'World's Largest Buildings' competition – on par with the Taj Mahal or the Pentagon – must be seen to be believed.

Joyfull / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Black Sea Beaches

Whether you’re looking for all-day tanning, all-night clubbing, or something a little more relaxing, you’re sure to find some patch of sand to your liking along Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast. Away from the big, brash package resorts, you’ll come across charming seaside towns standing above smaller sandy coves, while the cities of Varna and Burgas both have lengthy, less-crowded urban beaches. If it’s solitude you seek, head for the more remote beaches to the far north and south.

Albena | Opopo / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Rila Monastery

More than a thousand years of uninterrupted spiritual activity have swept through this beautiful monastery, which rises from a valley in the misty Rila Mountains. Credited with safeguarding Bulgarian culture during the dark centuries under Ottoman rule, and a lightning rod for revolution in the 19th century, Rila Monastery remains Bulgaria’s most storied spiritual treasure. The monastery grew from a 10th-century hermit’s hut; following a fire, the breathtaking mix of elegant archways, soaring domes and apocalyptic frescoes that stands today dates mostly to the 19th century.

Ivancreative / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Bran Castle

Perched on a rocky bluff in Transylvania, in a mass of turrets and castellations, Bran Castle overlooks a desolate mountain pass swirling with mist and dense forest. Its spectral exterior is like a composite of every horror film you’ve ever seen, but don’t expect to be scared. Inside, Bran is anything but spooky, with its white walls and geranium-filled courtyard. Legend has it Vlad the Impaler (the inspiration for Count Dracula) was briefly imprisoned here, and you can follow his footsteps through an 'Escheresque' maze of courtyards and hidden passages.

Dziewul / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Painted Monasteries of Bucovina

Tucked away in the eastern side of the Carpathian mountains, the Unesco-listed painted monasteries of Bucovina proudly show off Romania’s unique, Latin-flavoured Orthodox tradition. The churches are at one with their natural surroundings and the dizzying kaleidoscope of colours and intricate details in the frescoes bring to life everything from biblical stories to the 15th-century siege of Constantinople. The monasteries are largely the genius of Moldavian prince and national hero Stephen the Great (Ştefan cel Mare), who was later canonised for his works.

Voroneţ Monastery | Mikadun / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Veliko Târnovo

Bulgaria’s long history of warring tsars and epic battles is exceptionally vivid in its former capital, Veliko Târnovo. Topped with a marvellous medieval fortress, this town of Soviet monuments, cobblestoned lanes and barely changed handicraft shops allows for a memorable trip into Bulgaria’s past. Home to the second-largest university in Bulgaria, the town also has a simmering nightlife; a creative and multicultural expat community adds to the fun. Set above the ribboning Yantra River, it’s also a great base for local hikes, mountain biking and day trips to Emen Canyon.

Tsarevets Fortress | S-F / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Bulgarian Wine Tasting

Bulgaria’s winemaking tradition dates to ancient Thracian times, and its wines have been enjoyed by everyone from Roman writers to former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. Melnik in southwestern Bulgaria is an especially fruitful location to sip wine, and a very scenic one: the village is lined with traditional 19th-century houses, against a backdrop of natural sandstone pyramids. Beyond here, discover five distinct wine-growing regions from the Danube to the Black Sea to the Thracian Plain. Numerous wineries offer tastings; beyond Melnik, some of the best are in Bulgarian Thrace.

Scott Wong / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Wildlife in the Danube Delta

After flowing 2800km across the European continent, the mighty Danube River passes through a vast expanse of remote wetland in eastern Romania – the delta – before finally emptying into the Black Sea. Under the international environmental protection of the Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve Authority, the region has developed into a sanctuary for fish and fowl of all stripe and colour. Birders, in particular, will thrill to the prospect of glimpsing species such as the roller, white-tailed eagle, great white egret and even a bee-eater or two.

Porojnicu Stelian / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Wooden Churches of Maramureş

Rising from forested hillsides like dark needles, the exquisite wooden churches of Maramureş, in northern Romania, are both austere and beautiful, with roofs of shingle, and weather-beaten, Gothic-style steeples. Inside, you’ll discover rich interiors painted with biblical frescoes, some of which date back to the 14th century. On Sundays, the villagers don traditional dress for church, and attending one of the services is a special treat.

Bârsana Monastery | Scott Wong / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Thracian Tombs

The Valley of Thracian Kings, between Shipka and Kazanlâk, is dotted with fine tombs, and more are unearthed every year. But one of the most magnificently preserved examples is the Unesco-listed Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari in Bulgaria’s northeast. The tomb dates to 300 BC and harbours lovely artwork and reliefs within its three chambers, including 10 elegant female figures. This rare discovery was made in 1982, but tourists are few. A visit requires private transportation, but it’s worth the effort to play Tomb Raider within its evocative confines.

Tomb of Sveshtari | Takashi Images / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Trekking in the Carpathians

Dense primeval forests leap straight from the pages of a Brothers Grimm story, with bears, wolves, lynx and boar, rugged mountain plateaus, well-marked trails and a network of cabins en route to keep you warm. Trekking is the best way to absorb this vibrant landscape of mountain tops, forests and rolling pastureland. The peaks can be approached from both Transylvania and Moldavia. The Retezat Mountains, with some 80 glacial lakes and peaks towering above 2000m, are a spectacular stretch of the southern Carpathians.

Hikers in the Bucegi Mountains | Gaspar Janos / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Cluj-Napoca

Romania's second-largest city has reawakened from its decades-long slumber and now offers countless bohemian cafes, great restaurants, music festivals, clubs and bars. It's also emerged as the country's contemporary arts hub. The tens of thousands of students here lend a youthful vibe and fuel a vigorous nightlife at places like Insomnia. With increasing flight links to European cities, the city is welcoming more and more travellers, who usually shoot off to higher-profile burgs like Braşov, Sibiu or Sighişoara, but who come inevitably to regret not allowing enough time for Cluj.

Mariia Golovianko / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Stara Planina Hiking

Hikers have breathtaking choice across the Stara Planina mountain range, rippling for 550km across the length of Bulgaria. Casual strollers can walk through the meadows around Dryanovo or stride to peaceful monasteries such as Sokolski. Meanwhile, dedicated hikers can climb the tallest peak, Mt Botev (2376m), a challenging but picturesque ascent overlooking sheer ridges and expanses of green. Alternatively, seek out solitude on multiday hikes, staying at the Stara Planina’s 80-odd hizhas (mountain huts) along the way; just prepare for notoriously changeable weather.

A hizha | SimeonDonov / Getty Images ©

Top Experiences

Saxon Villages & Fortified Churches

Back in the 12th century, Saxon Germans were invited to settle parts of Transylvania to buffer the then-Hungarian kingdom from the threat of Tatar and Turkish attack. The architectural legacy is a row of regal fortified churches, watchtowers and impenetrable stone walls that dot the landscape between Sighişoara and Sibiu. Around these haunting churches, town entrances were guarded with heavy metal gates that could be quickly lowered. Most visitors are drawn to the impressive Fortified Church in Biertan, though Viscri, Mălâncrav and Alma Vii are also worth exploring.

Biertan | Aivita Arika / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Skiing in the Pirin Mountains

The Pirin Mountains are truly a land of giants, with more than 100 peaks towering higher than 2000m. Their summer splendour draws hikers to Pirin National Park, but long winters and downy snowfall make Pirin the Balkans’ best skiing and snowboarding destination. Nestled at the base of Mt Vihren (2915m), Bansko is Bulgaria’s premium winter sports town. Its 75km of pistes, extending to a height of 2600m, have options for all levels. Just as invigorating is Bansko’s après-ski culture, which culminates with the Horizon Festival.

Skiers in Bankso | Nataliya Nazarova / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Driving the Transfăgărăşan Road

When the twisting, turning, high-altitude Transfăgărăşan road in southern Transylvania was built in the '70s, it was derided as a vanity project for the Ceauşescu regime. Who could have imagined a generation later it would be celebrated by TV's Top Gear as the world's most exciting length of road. Boldly charging up and down one of Romania’s highest mountains provides an unforgettable, white-knuckle experience behind the wheel. The climax is glacial Lake Bâlea, which hovers like a mirror among the rocks and is sometimes totally enshrouded by clouds.

Calin Stan / Shutterstock ©

Top Experiences

Plovdiv

With a charming old town, revitalised artistic quarter and the most exhilarating nightlife outside Sofia, Bulgaria’s second city has never looked finer. Ancient buildings nestle right in the centre of this seven-hilled town; a pleasant shopping street flows past its 2nd-century Roman stadium (which still hosts concerts) and a 15th-century mosque in an effortless blend of old and new. Investment for Plovdiv’s reign as European Capital of Culture 2019 has left the city gleaming, while the city's calendar bursts with opera, jazz, open-air art and more.

Nataliya Nazarova / Shutterstock ©

Welcome to Romania

Rugged stone churches and dazzling monasteries dot a pristine landscape of rocky mountains and rolling hills. Transylvanian towns have stepped out of time, while vibrant Bucharest is all energy.

Village in the Carpathian mountains | Vitalii Bashkatov / Shutterstock ©

Nature & Wildlife

The Carpathian Mountains draw a wide arc through the centre of the country, leaving a swath of exposed rocky peaks surrounded by groves of pine and deciduous trees, and stretches of bright green meadow below. The harsh geography has limited human habitation, and the woods are filled with deer, elk and bear. Europe's second-longest river, the Danube, marks Romania's southern border with Bulgaria before turning suddenly northward and emptying into the Black Sea. The delta provides sanctuary for 300 species of bird and 160 species of fish. The sprawling marshes account for the largest expanse of reed beds in the world.

Castles & Medieval Towns

Transylvania, the land that gave us Dracula, has no shortage of jaw-dropping castles pitched precariously on rocky hilltops. There's spooky Bran Castle, of course, with its spurious connection to Bram Stoker’s fictional count, but don’t overlook beauties such as Hunedoara’s 14th-century Corvin Castle or King Carol I’s sumptuous 19th-century pile, Peleş Castle. In medieval towns like Braşov, Sighişoara and Sibiu, cobbled walkways support chic streetside cafes, while a cacophony of sounds emanating from student bars and clubs echo off the Gothic and baroque facades in lively Cluj-Napoca. Transylvania’s Saxon villages boast fortified churches that date back half a millennium.

Folk Culture

For centuries, a highly productive peasant culture thrived in much of Romania. The hilly geography and lack of passable roads necessitated the emergence of hundreds of self-sufficient villages, where old-school crafts such as bread-making, pottery, tanning and weaving were honed to an art. Folk museums, particularly the open-air skansens and village museums, are a must. Many isolated hamlets, where the old folkways are still practised, are museums in themselves. This is most evident in Maramureş, where oversized hay racks, horse carts and stately wooden churches dominate, and towns and villages have seemingly stepped out of the Middle Ages.

Outdoor Activities

The rocky peaks of Transylvania and Moldavia, snow-capped from mid-October in some years, call out for conquering, and well-marked trails lead to summits from all directions. There are less adventurous but no less rewarding walks through woods, meadows and villages in other parts of the country. The Danube Delta is a vast and unique protected wetland and makes a perfect backdrop for fishing, boating and, especially, birdwatching in spring. In summer, from mid-June to early September, the action moves to the Black Sea coast. Beach resorts fill up with swimmers, divers, sunbathers and partiers, who come for the all-night, open-air clubbing marathons.

Why I Love Romania