How to Restore Your Chevy Truck: 1947-1955

PREFACE

I love these old trucks. They are solid, well built, and have character. It was this series, the Advance Design, that rebuilt America after World War II and had a serious impact on where we are today as an industrialized nation. They are elegant in their simplicity and sturdy in their design. I could go on and on about how wonderful they are, but if you purchased this book, you know that already! I have had many of these trucks over the years and have learned the nuances, tricks, and tradeoffs. I hope you get something out of this effort. We will not be creating a completely stock specimen, rather we are going to take some poetic license in this restoration.

Part of the reason we are not going to restore this truck to its perfectly original glory is because it would not be useful or even safe under today’s road conditions. A great many people would not be as enamored with the end result if we didn’t add safety features or if we were limited to the 50-mph top speed the stock pickup was capable of originally.

For these reasons and more, I will take my 40 years of experience with them to create the very best pickup I know how with sensible upgrades that are not over the top.

Let’s define over the top. To me, that is stuffing a V-8 between frame rails that weren’t designed for such a monster, boxing in frame rails, moving the steering gearbox, or adding motor mounts to our precious vintage frame. No can do! Neither can we add a more modern automatic transmission that requires us to hack into or completely remove the main (riveted) crossmember. Hacking the front of the frame to install independent front suspension is also a no. It’s a vintage truck, and for me, a great deal of its original character is that 6-cylinder Stovebolt riding on a solid axle front end. It takes talent to do all those things right, but there are other places we can prove how talented we are on this particular build.

INTRODUCTION

There is a little-known phenomenon that can totally change a person’s life. It has to do with what we are all capable of. Most people think we learn at the same speed/rate we were accustomed to in K–12 and college (or in my case, the military). It is ingrained in all of us. That is a total misconception and one that holds us back from doing extraordinary things.

I stumbled on this amazing revelation during my career in electronics. The PhDs that were working with me on building new technology were taught everything they knew in the normal manner: formal and very advanced schooling. But what if a person is exposed to this experience and has no formal schooling? Will they reach the same conclusions on how to solve problems or will the fact that they did not go to formal school actually help them think outside the box? I can’t count the times I saved the PhDs from certain doom by suggesting (very diplomatically) that they do something different.

This is a very important prelude to this book and one that I hope helps you understand what is possible. To get the very same superior results in vehicle restoration as the major players without spending years learning at the normal rate, bypass the concept of normal and change gears entirely. I wrote books in my last job that made electronic technicians with little to no experience perform maintenance on very complex systems as if they were the engineers who designed them, so why not apply that to vehicle restoration? This concept has proven to be a smashing success, and I hope my suggestions throughout this book give you the confidence of someone who has done this all their lives. Sure, there is absolutely some nervousness to get over due to unfamiliarity, but no, that is not a reason to give in to the norm.

I tested my theory on automotive painting. This is by far the hardest thing to master in vehicle restoration. Though practice is essential, you have the ability within yourself without ever picking up a paint gun to paint a vehicle to an astounding level of perfection. I had no idea how hard it was. Read as: I had no idea how easy or hard it was. I just didn’t know. So, what is the big secret? Part of it is determination to succeed no matter what. Part of it is not allowing preconceived notions to mess with your mind. Once you have the correct attitude, take the time to learn by watching someone else.

With the advent of the internet and search engines such as Google, we have everything we need to learn new skills. Watch paint videos from several people. Watch from at least 10 different sources. Why? Because of the point of this whole tirade! One of the guys (or more) in the videos might have gone to formal school to learn this trade. Another video might be from a self-taught individual who didn’t know he was doing it all wrong but provided superior results from learning things differently. Now that you are armed with the best information from the best teachers in the world—the guys who had the guts to show you what they learned the hard way—you can pick up a paint gun armed with all the information (and then some) that the professionals use (or not) every day.

This endeavor and the result of this philosophy are evident in every chapter of this book. I am not a professional, and I am proud of the work I did. This truck came out absolutely phenomenal! I wanted to share with you the secret in this introduction so you can have the exact same result. If I can do this, you can do this. I have 4 titanium rods, 2 plates, and 13 screws in my lower back, and I am 61 years old. This book and everything in it is dedicated to you. Don’t be pigeonholed by strict adherence to mediocre education that could very well not have all the nuances and answers taught in the way you learn best; instead, get your information from many sources and then use the most important thing God gave you: your own common sense!

History of the Advance Design

Just after World War II, General Motors went from building tanks and other armaments back to consumer vehicles. The automaker knew the public was tired from four long years of war and wanted to put the past behind it. Chevrolet’s radically different light-duty pickups represent a sea change in pickup design and appearance. General Motors was the first domestic car manufacturer to release these new post-war trucks; they were introduced to Chevrolet dealer showrooms on June 28, 1947, and were available later that year.

Deve’s 1950 Chevy truck is shown near a Piper J3C-65 that was manufactured by the Piper Aircraft Company of Lock Haven, Pennsylvania, in 1946. Special thanks to Carl Weaver.

The reason for the excitement was because the new design featured a larger windshield, bigger side and rear window glass, higher and wider cab doors, a fresh-air heating/defrosting system, and larger seating capacity with a roomier cab (8 inches wider and 7 inches longer than earlier models) to name a few of the highlights. The lineup for pickups included three sizes: half- (3104), three-quarter- (3604), and one-ton (3804) models with cargo boxes that were 78, 87, and 137 inches, respectively. All three boxes were 50 inches wide with 16¼-inch side walls and 14-inch end walls. The wheelbases were 116, 125¼, and 137 inches.

Compared to previous models, the cargo box was shifted forward for better load distribution in relation to the rear axle, and it provided better support by the frame rails. The new models had Chevrolet’s signature bed design of wooden floors with steel skid strips that continued through most of the 1960s.

The engine was a 90-hp 216.5-ci overhead valve 6-cylinder with 174 ft-lbs of torque. The trucks could be ordered with a 3-on-the-tree 3-speed transmission or a floor-shifted 4-speed. Back in those days, this was modern technology at its finest. And each year they made changes to improve on it.

1947

On June 28, 1947, General Motors introduced the new Advance Design (AD) truck. The gas tank mounted under the bed and was filled through a hole in passenger’s side of the bed. A 3-speed transmission (non-synchromesh) was floor shifted on all models (3-and 4-speed alike). The doors had one-piece glass with no vent window, and the door handles were turn-down type. The windshield was two-piece. The hood side emblem said CHEVROLET and THRIFTMASTER. A headliner center bow was screwed to the roof of the cab.

This photo is of my uncle Art changing a tire at the farm near Elyria, Kansas. The story was, in the winter they would share the 8-volt tractor battery to get the truck started for school. I learned at an early age what an abomination a 6-volt system can be without a lot of care.

New features included cab corner windows and a fresh-air heater/defroster. A hand-operated emergency brake handle was located on the right-hand side of the floor shifter. And a radio was available as an in-dash option for the first time.

1948

This year, the shifter for the transmission was moved to the column (creating 3 on the tree), and the synchromesh transmission was introduced. The emergency brake moved to the far-left side of the steering column and was changed to a foot-operated mechanism. The 1947 and 1948 models had red needles on the gauges.

1949

Hood side emblems now had CHEVROLET along with the series designation (3100, 3600, etc.). The THRIFTMASTER hood side emblems were discontinued. The gas tank moved to inside the cab behind the seat. In midyear 1949, cab windlace rubber changed from black to gray/tan and now slid into a track. The headliner center bow was changed to a floating type and was not screwed to the roof of the cab as before.

1950

For 1950, lever-action shocks were replaced with modern tubular shocks. This was the last year for the driver-side vent. The handle for the side cowl vent was flat steel, not maroon plastic as it was previously. The wiper knob was chrome-plated steel.

1951

The one-piece door glass gave way to two-piece glass with vent windows. During 1951, Chevy changed the bed from a nine-board pattern to an eight-board pattern. The front bumper was standard, and the rear bumper was an option. Only a top cowl vent was offered; the driver-side vent was discontinued. This was the only year with vent windows and pull-down exterior door handles. It was also the final year for chrome inside window handle knobs and a chrome wiper knob.

1952

In 1952, the exterior door handles became a push-button type. The speedometer changed from a max of 80 mph to 90 mph. Halfway through the year, General Motors stopped using 3100, 3600, and 3800 emblems on the side of the hood, whereas Chevrolet kept them all year. This year, no rear bumper was offered. The horizontal strips below and above the radio speaker grille and glove box door changed to painted steel (they had been stainless steel). Hubcaps changed from chrome to gray painted steel with black block letters, but the stamping and the shape remained the same as prior years. Bumpers were no longer chrome; they were now gray painted steel.

1953

This was the last year for the 216-ci engine. The hood front emblem was now stainless steel, and the hood side emblems lost the CHEVROLET but kept the series numbers (3100, 3600, etc.) This was the first year that a side-mounted spare was offered as an option. A rear bumper was reintroduced. It was the last year for wood blocks under the bed. The wiper knob was maroon plastic, as it was in 1952. For the first year, a blue and silver ID door plate was used (prior years were black and silver).

1954

A high-pressure 235-ci 112-hp engine was introduced for pickups, and a 261-ci engine was introduced for larger trucks. Hubcaps were the same shape as previous models but now had only the Bowtie emblem. The old horizontal grille gave way to a new bull-nose grille. This was the first year for parking lights, which were introduced with a new grille. The two-piece windshield was replaced with modern one-piece curved glass. The dash instruments and steering wheel changed to a modern design. The bed was redesigned, and the top rails were now flat, not sloped like previous models. The taillights were now round. The rear bumper now had a notch in the center for a license plate. The Hydramatic transmission was available in trucks for the first time. Two-tone cabs were also available as an option for the first time but only with a white top and only on more deluxe cabs. Full wheel covers were now available as an option too.

Cheverolet Pickup Truck Notes

Keep the following in mind when restoring:

•   1947–1950 trucks had standard chrome bumpers on the front and the rear.

•   1947–1949 trucks had a large fuse block on the firewall.

•   1947–1950 trucks had a driver-side vent.

•   1947–1949 trucks had lever-action shocks.

•   1947 to midyear 1949, a cab-opening windlace seal attached to the cab with a metal retainer. Midyear 1949, General Motors installed a track with a new style of windlace that slid into the track.

•   With 1955 and earlier trucks, the raised letters on the tailgate were not a contrasting color but were body color. Bed planks were hard yellow pine and were painted black.

•   Prior to 1955, dark green was the standard paint color; other colors were available as a no-cost option.

•   During 1947–1948, the Chevrolet painted grille bars and back splash bars were body color. In addition, the leading edge of each painted outer bar had a horizontal stripe matching the cab stripe. On the 1949–1951 Chevrolet with a painted grille, the back splash bar was white. In 1952–1953, this changed to light gray to match the hubcaps and the bumpers. On chrome grilles, only the outer bar was plated. The back splash bar was the same as the painted grille. ■

1955

This was the first year for an open driveshaft on pickups and panel trucks. It was the final year for the 6-volt electrical system.

More historical data for the AD era can be found at devestechnet.com/Home/History. The official GM Restoration Package for your truck is available at gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html.

GMC Crossover

General Motors, the parent company of Chevrolet, also made the GMC series of trucks during these same model years. A great deal of this book will apply to the GMCs; however, some of it won’t. The engines were different as were the grille and many other small parts. My apologies to GMC owners who feel left out. My experiences are solely with the Chevrolet version of these trucks. ■

Identification Note

A common question asked by new enthusiasts is How do I identify my truck? It is not as complicated as it is for later-year models. Simply, there are no uniform stampings anywhere on the truck with a few exceptions. You won’t find any way to verify a numbers-matching truck. The ID plate on the driver-side door will tell you a great deal. The casting number and serial number on the engine will provide important information concerning the engine and what it was made for. Since the vendors sell new ID plates and most of the engines of this vintage have been replaced, there is really no way to prove providence beyond a doubt.

CHAPTER 1

THE FRAME-UP RESTORATION PHILOSOPHY

The plan is to take an Advance Design (AD) half-ton truck and restore it. Easy enough, right? Except we need to stop and think about how far we want to take it. Are we interested in an old truck that is just prettied up a little and made operational, or do we want a pristine truck that is better than when it came out of the dealer’s showroom and uses all the superior features of all the AD years?

I will assume that you want it to come out better than new. To do this, no amount of time or effort will be spared to get a pristine result. But let’s think a moment about the hows and whys that come with this type of endeavor. There are two disciplines to adhere to: preservation and restoration. These two things go hand in hand, as you will see as we go through the process. What does this mean exactly?

After spending a lot of time in salvage yards picking parts, I can tell you that cadmium (cad)-plated hardware (nuts and bolts mainly) have a life span. In the name of preservation, stainless steel hardware will last forever because it is not a plating. For my restoration, I used polished stainless steel for all the bright work and stainless steel everywhere else. I also used superior paints and coatings for this same reason.

Choosing the Pickup

If you are in the market for one of these trucks to restore, there are a few considerations that may be of help in your search. Even though Chevrolet learned lessons that made these trucks better as the years went by, I still prefer the 1950 model. This is because all of the cabs of the AD era were pretty much the same with a couple important exceptions.

This is Mike Fahrbach’s 1951 3/4-ton that he named Virgil. The 3/4-ton trucks with the original engine/transmission combination could easily pull 2- to 3-inch tree stumps right out of the ground. Low-end torque was exceptional. Virgil sports a full-flow 261 with a Tremec T5 transmission.

•   The 1947 model cabs only have three mounting locations to the frame. For late 1948 through 1955, they went to four cushioned mounting locations for the cab, which made the ride more stable.

•   For 1947 through 1950 only, the cab had a driver-side vent to the outside for pulling in fresh air. For 1951 and beyond, that vent was removed and new door window vents were relied on for venting. I prefer the driver-side vent and four cab mounts.

The 1950 AD frame is my choice because it has modern tube shock mounts for the first time. The beauty of the AD era is the ability to interchange most of the parts. For example, I do not like the doors that come with the 1950 truck (I like vented windows and push-button outside door latches, which were not available until 1952), so I am going with 1952–1955 doors. In my opinion, you cannot have enough venting into the cab. Vent windows, a driver-side vent, and an upper cowl vent allow for a nice breeze in a truck with no air-conditioning.

This is my first 1950 pickup restoration, and I really like that driver-side outside air vent.

Another reason to like the 1949–1950 model is the more robust, more useful, and tougher underbed spare tire carrier system. In addition, the half-ton with rear corner windows (referred to as a five-window cab) seem to be the most desirable from the public’s perspective. Personally, if you own any AD truck, you are on top of the game. But for this restoration, I am going with a 1950 Chevy half-ton with rear quarter windows.

When searching for your project vehicle, it can be a good idea to purchase a parts vehicle. The 1950 truck (white) became our restoration project vehicle. The 1955 model (brown) was too far gone to restore but was used for parts for this restoration, such as the doors.

This is hard work and something that you must have the right mindset to do. If you are there, just the accomplishment is very rewarding.

Disclaimer

Iam going to do everything for this restoration myself. I know this seems crazy, but I have more time than money, so I am going to be the laborer for this project with the fewest exceptions possible. It’s a learning journey to say the least, but I will prove it can be a one-man job! Engine machine shop work is outsourced, but other than that, it will be a one-man show. Even the engine rebuild is done right here in the shop. ■

I paid $600 for the white 1950 AD truck several years ago. The truck had massive amounts of body filler hiding a great deal of damage. It was almost a hopeless case in the way of rust and damage, which made it a great candidate for this project.

The victim for this project was in much worse shape than it looked. Once torn down, my mentors said right away to junk the cab and get another one. It was unanimous among my friends that it was too far gone. There was no floor after the seat pedestal, most of the toe board was gone, and all of the structure below floor level was rusted out completely. The frame had some serious issues, and everyone thought I was crazy for even trying to salvage the truck. But honestly, we don’t have an overabundance of five-window cabs in better shape, so I felt we needed to salvage it if possible. Part of this is being a good steward in saving our heritage regardless of the climb to get there.

The Skills Required

So, we have the material for the job, now how do we do it? The nice part about the AD era is it is very straightforward. Each subassembly is carefully thought out but simple in design without computers, unnecessary wiring, etc. First, carefully disassemble the entire truck, placing all nuts and bolts in labeled bags attached to the parts they come with. With the entire truck in pieces, assess the frame, the engine and the drivetrain, the cab, and each individual part for serviceability. That’s the easy part.

Next, it will be obvious that it is important to learn how to weld with a MIG welder. There will be no getting around it because there will be a lot of rust damage from 60-plus years of wear and tear. The rust may be hiding under the paint or what’s left of it.

It will also be a good idea to learn how to sandblast. It is important to get down to the bare metal on all parts for the project; no exceptions. This will help you find what others covered up or didn’t catch.

After welding and sandblasting, it is time to move on to becoming a painter. There is a lot to painting if you are going to do it right. Finally, there is the engine and drivetrain parts. We are going to learn how to rebuild engines, service transmissions and drivetrain parts, and do tasteful upgrades to make this restoration the best it can be.

MIG welding is relatively easy to learn and a very handy skill to have. Be sure to get a good gas-type 110/220-volt unit so you have the capability to weld thicker materials.

It’s a messy job, but someone has to do it. Sandblasting using #1 silica sand is hazardous to your health and best done outside while wearing an appropriate respirator.

Engine Differences

The 1954–1957 235 or 261 engines are also fine for a 1950 model restoration. The differences are minor except for the 261. In 1958, General Motors introduced full-flow oil filtering with that year’s 261. Find more on this engine at devestechnet.com/Home/TheVenerable261. ■

Preplanning for a Positive Result

Let’s ask ourselves a few questions prior to getting our hands dirty: Q: Is this going to be a show truck (trailer queen) or are we going to actually drive it?

A: We are going to drive it. We want to enjoy the vehicle the way it was intended. This does not mean skimping on quality. It will be a show truck to begin with.

Q: Will the truck have a stock single master cylinder with drum brakes?

A: No, for safety reasons on today’s modern roads, adequate stopping power and stopping distance is needed. While good drum brakes are fine for this, a more-modern dual master cylinder is safer, so we will take this opportunity to install front disc brakes. All will be bolt-in replacements with no modifications to the vintage parts.

Q: Are you happy with a maximum speed of 50 mph?

A: No. A 1962 261 6-cylinder engine will be installed since it’s a bolt-in replacement for the original 216 engine. While we are at it, we will add a 1962 vintage BorgWarner R10 Overdrive with 3-speed and a more modern open driveline with a 1955 first series rear end, which are all bolt-in replacements.

As you can see, I am not a purist making a stock specimen suited for a museum or a hot rodder who will chop and hack through to make something that looks vintage but isn’t. I am middle of the road and will only make tasteful upgrades. The 6-cylinder stays, the 3-speed stays, and the suspension stays. All the things that make this pickup charming will stay.

There is a reason the charming attributes will stay as they are: preservation. Every upgrade will be a bolt-on upgrade that can be removed should a new owner come along who wants a perfectly stock truck. At this particular time, there are fewer and fewer people interested in perfectly stock, so some exceptions are made, but in the end, we are going for tasteful.

Addressing all of this and more with the work done by someone else would make the cost astronomical. It’s much less costly to learn to do all these things. It is not as daunting as you may think. The way I look at it is, if I can do it, anyone can. Another cool aspect of learning all this is, you will have the tools to do it again!

Plan of Attack

You know what they say about best laid plans, but