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    Lonely Planet Pocket New Orleans
    Lonely Planet Pocket New Orleans
    Lonely Planet Pocket New Orleans
    Ebook254 pages1 hour

    Lonely Planet Pocket New Orleans

    By Adam Karlin and Ray Bartlett

    ()

    Read preview

    About this ebook

    Lonely Planet's Pocket New Orleans is your guide to the city's best experiences and local life - neighborhood by neighborhood. Admire the architecture of the French Quarter, wander the graves in Lafeyette Cemetery and indulge in creole cuisine; all with your trusted travel companion. Uncover the best of New Orleans and make the most of your trip!

    Inside Lonely Planet's Pocket New Orleans:

    Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020's COVID-19 outbreak

    Full-color maps and travel photography throughout

    Highlightsand itineraries help you tailor a trip to your personal needs and interests

    Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

    Essential infoat your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices

    Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

    Convenient pull-out New Orleans map (included in print version), plus over 27 color neighborhood maps

    User-friendly layout with helpful icons, and organized by neighborhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time

    Covers the French Quarter, Faubourg Marigny & Bywater, the CBD and Warehouse District, Uptown & Riverbed, Garden, Lower Garden & Central City, Mid-City, Bayou St John, Treme-Lafitte and more

    The Perfect Choice:Lonely Planet's Pocket New Orleans, an easy-to-use guide filled with top experiences - neighborhood by neighborhood - that literally fits in your pocket. Make the most of a quick trip to New Orleans with trusted travel advice to get you straight to the heart of the city.


     

    Looking for a comprehensive guide that recommends both popular and offbeat experiences, and extensively covers all of New Orleans's neighborhoods? Check out Lonely Planet's New Orleans travel guide.

    Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet's USA guide for a comprehensive look at all that the country has to offer.

     

    About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travelers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 12 international magazines, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day.

    'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

    'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveler's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherLonely Planet
    Release dateFeb 1, 2023
    ISBN9781837581436
    Lonely Planet Pocket New Orleans
    Author

    Adam Karlin

    Adam Karlin was born in Washington, DC, and raised in rural Southern Maryland. As a journalist he has written on war, politics, crime, archaeology, history, and the environment, but fantasy is his first literary love, and Luna and the Heart of the Forest is his first novel. In his spare time, Adam balances a love of being outdoors with intense indoor jags of reading, tabletop RPGs, and video games, but he likes to enjoy all of the above with his wife, daughter, and son. www.walkonfine.com

    Read more from Adam Karlin

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      Book preview

      Lonely Planet Pocket New Orleans - Adam Karlin

      Front CoverFull Page Samplerbutton

      Contents

      Plan Your Trip

      Top Experiences

      Dining Out

      Live Music

      Bar Open

      Architecture

      Festivals

      Tours

      Under the Radar

      For Kids

      LGBTIQ+ New Orleans

      Four Perfect Days

      Need to Know

      New Orleans Neighborhoods

      Explore New Orleans

      French Quarter

      Faubourg Marigny & Bywater

      CBD & Warehouse District

      Garden, Lower Garden & Central City

      Uptown & Riverbend

      Mid-City, Bayou St John & City Park

      Tremé-Lafitte

      Survival Guide

      Before You Go

      Arriving in New Orleans

      Getting Around

      Essential Information

      Responsible Travel

      Behind the Scenes

      Our Writers

      COVID-19

      We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some will unfortunately have closed their doors permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

      Top Experiences

      1 Listen to buskers on Royal Street

      jpg

      WILLIAM A. MORGAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      New Orleans Top Experiences

      1 Soak up the atmosphere in Jackson Square

      jpg

      F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      New Orleans Top Experiences

      1 Stroll the crypts at Lafayette Cemetery No 1

      jpg

      TIAGO LOPES FERNANDEZ/PEEK CREATIVE COLLECTIVE A/GETTY IMAGES ©

      New Orleans Top Experiences

      1 View plantation-style mansions from St Charles Avenue Streetcar

      jpg

      JIAWANGKUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      New Orleans Top Experiences

      1 Catch up on culture at Ogden Museum of Southern Art

      jpg

      CSFOTOIMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

      New Orleans Top Experiences

      1 Explore the city’s history at the Cabildo

      jpg

      LEGACY1995/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      New Orleans Top Experiences

      1 Spend an afternoon at City Park

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      MALLORY FANDAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      New Orleans Top Experiences

      1 Ogle the creatures of the Bayou at Audubon Zoo

      jpg

      KIT LEONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      New Orleans Top Experiences

      1 Look & Learn at the National WWII Museum

      jpg

      J. NORMAN REID/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Dining Out

      In what other American city do people celebrate the harvest season of sewage-dwelling crustaceans? The crawfish boil (pictured) exemplifies New Orleans’ relationship with food: unconditional love. This city finds itself in its food; meals are both expressions of identity and bridges between the city’s many divisions.

      jpg

      ELENAMAZUR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      A Gastronomic Playground

      When it comes to food, New Orleans does not fool around. Well, OK, it does: its playful attitude to ingredients and recipes mixes (for example) alligator sausage and cheesecake into a dessert fit for the gods. This sense of gastronomic play is rooted in both deep traditions – truly, this city has one of the few indigenous cuisines in the country – and a willingness to accommodate outside influences, both in terms of technique and ethnicity. New Orleans’ cuisine is a mix of Caribbean, African and European influences that is truly unique.

      Born on the Bayou

      Settlers who arrived in Louisiana had to work with the ingredients of the bayous, woods and prairie, and so developed one of America’s only true native-born cuisines. As a result, some say the New Orleans palette is limited to its own specialties, that this is a town of ‘a thousand restaurants and three dishes.’

      That cliché is a bit tired. First, lots of restaurants are serving what we would deem ‘Nouveau New Orleans’ cuisine – native classics influenced by global flavors and techniques. And, second, international options are popping up more frequently in this town.

      Best For Foodies

      Marjie’s Grill Southeast Asian street food done with care and attention.

      Bacchanal Wine, cheese, bread and a magically lit garden.

      Seaworthy Incredibly fresh seafood, prepared with care and expertise.

      Boucherie Southern cuisine cooked with fascinating new twists.

      Best Classic Creole Cuisine

      Commander’s Palace This Garden District institution is the grande dame of classic Creole cuisine.

      Gautreau’s A lovely Uptown establishment that nails the New Orleans approach to food.

      Restaurant August An elegant setting and presentation belies a gorgeous tableau of New Orleans dishes.

      Herbsaint We’d fight people just for another taste of the gumbo.

      Best ‘Nouveau New Orleans’ Cuisine

      Peche Seafood Grill One of the most highly regarded seafood restaurants in the USA.

      SoBou Funky French Quarter restaurant that’s decadent and playful with New Orleans recipes.

      Bayona Local ingredients are buttressed by an international approach to cooking techniques.

      Compère Lapin Creole Louisiana meets the gastronomy of the Caribbean.

      Best for Po’boys

      Parkway Tavern Grab a po’boy and enjoy a picnic on the banks of Bayou St John.

      Rampart Food Store This convenience store has perfected the recipe for a shrimp sandwich.

      Live Music

      There is great live music happening every night of the week in New Orleans, which makes a strong claim to being the best live-music city in the nation. Jazz is definitely not the only genre on offer: R&B, rock, country, Cajun, zydeco, funk, soul, hip-hop and genre-defying experimentation are all common.

      jpg

      TLF IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival

      Jazz Fest sums up everything that would be lost if the world were to lose New Orleans. Much more than Mardi Gras, with its secret balls and sparkly trinkets, Jazz Fest reflects the generosity of New Orleans, its unstoppable urge to share its most precious resource – its culture – with the rest of the world. Of course, the Fest is first and foremost about music, but it isn’t just about jazz. It’s jazz and heritage, which means any music that jazz came from, and any music that jazz inspired. The multitude of stages and tents feature everything that pours in and out of jazz – blues, gospel, Afro-Caribbean, folk, country, zydeco, Cajun, funky brass, and on and on.

      Bounce

      Bounce is the defining sound of young Black New Orleans. It’s a high-speed genre distinct to the city that involves drum-machine-driven beats, call-and-response, sexualized lyrics and extremely raunchy dancing. Shows are led by DJs, who play a role similar to a selector at a Jamaican dancehall concert.

      Best Live Music Overall

      d.b.a. Live music pops off all the time, and the beer menu is extensive.

      Spotted Cat A fantastically dingy Frenchmen St dive for the quintessential New Orleans jazz show. (pictured)

      Tipitina’s One of the city’s most storied concert halls.

      Hi Ho Lounge An edgy little spot with a wide variety of music.

      AllWays Lounge The place to go for an eclectic mix of genres and dance parties.

      Best Hip-Hop & Bounce

      Blue Nile Hip-hop and dance-hall acts regularly take the stage at the Nile.

      Siberia Bounce shows and serious booty-shaking are a regular occurrence.

      Maison Younger hip-hop acts attract the college crowd at this Frenchmen St venue.

      Best Jazz

      Spotted Cat A cozy dive bar that hosts some of the funkiest jazz acts in the city.

      Snug Harbor Elegant bar with cocktail-attire-style service and classy acts.

      Preservation Hall The guardian of the classic New Orleans jazz sound.

      Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub Live jazz in a tiny venue where you’re never more than 10ft from the performers.

      Chickie Wah Wah A locals’ spot that features great music in the heart of Mid-City.

      Tips for Gig-Goers

      A The standard cover charge for shows is from $5 to $10.

      A During events like Jazz Fest, however, seeing local celebrities like Kermit Ruffins may run to $15 or even $20.

      Bar Open

      New Orleans doesn’t rest for much. But the city isn’t just a lush. A typical New Orleans night out features just as much food and music as booze. Here, all your senses are appealed to: your ear for a brass band, your taste for rich food, the touch of heat on your skin, and your whetted thirst for another shot…

      jpg

      F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Bars, Clubs & Lounges

      In general, bars in New Orleans would often be considered ‘dives’ elsewhere. That’s not to say bars here are grotty (although some certainly are); rather, there are many neighborhood joints in New Orleans that are unpretentious spots catering to those looking to drink, as opposed to those who want to meet and chat someone up. If you’re in the latter category, head to lounges, which tend to be newer, more brightly lit and possessed of a general modern sensibility. That said, some bars, such as Anna’s, are good spots for both a beer after work and a bit of random flirtation.

      Lowdown on the High Life

      Most dedicated bars open around 5pm, although some places serve drinks during lunch, and some are open 24 hours. Closing time is an ill-defined thing; officially it’s around 2am or 3am, but sometimes it’s whenever the last customer stumbles out the door. Cafes open early, and closing times vary from lunch to late evening (around 9pm). It’s common to leave a dollar or more for your bartender, even if they just pop the cap off a bottle of beer. You don’t have to tip for every drink, but the general rule is to leave a couple of bucks extra for every hour spent at the bar.

      Best Bars

      Buffa’s It’s divey, the music is great, the drinks are strong, and it never closes.

      Bar Tonique A bartenders’ bar with great cocktails.

      Tiki Tolteca Crazy mixed tropical drinks in a gloriously kitsch atmosphere.

      Anna’s Mixed drinks, cold beer, great music.

      Twelve Mile Limit Casual neighborhood vibe, great spirits and drinks.

      Cane & Table Expert mixed drinks and a courtyard plucked from tropical fantasies.

      Best Cocktails

      French 75 A bar so dedicated to cocktails it was named for one.

      Cure The bar that gentrified Freret St on the strength of its cocktail menu.

      Cane & Table Tropical drinks mixed with a ton of attention and skill.

      Best Coffee

      Fair Grinds Great coffee, tasty baked goods, friendly staff and an artsy cafe atmosphere.

      Station

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