Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
Культура Документы
TECTILON
Ciba
Content
CH 1 : Description
Characteristics and benefits of the Ciba concept for polyamide/elastane General Outlets Polyamide fibers Elastane fibers General precautions (storage) Processing routes
Relaxation Heat setting Processing of circular knits
1
1 2 2 2 3 3 4
4 4 4
Pretreatment
Scouring/relaxation Bleaching/fluorescent whitening
4
4 5
5 6 acid dyes 7 8 9 10 12
12 12 13
TECTILON ERIONYL
A acid dyes
Ciba LANASET acid/metal complex dyes Recommendations for combination shades Dyeing
Parameters influencing dyeing Dissolving the dyes Dyeing chemicals
Dyeing procedures
Ciba TECTILON, Ciba ERIONYL A and Ciba POLAR acid dyes Ciba
14
14 15 16
LANASET
17
17 18
19 19 19
II
20 21
21 22 22
Textile auxiliaries
Ciba ALBEGAL SET Ciba
23
23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23
AVIVAN
SO NEW
CIBAFIX ECO
CIBAFLUID CIBAFLUID Ciba Ciba Ciba Ciba Ciba Ciba Ciba Ciba Ciba Ciba Ciba Ciba
CLARITE
PS
Ciba FUMEXOL DF
DA PBN JET-LF
Ciba INVATEX CS
MEGASOFT
Ciba OLEOPHOBOL S
OLEOPHOBOL TINEGAL
7713
Ciba ULTRAVON EL
UM NEW
CF lq. 200% i
ZEROSTAT
AT NEW
III
CH 2 : Dyes
Ciba TECTILON acid dyes Ciba
28
28 32 39 46 50
50 50 51 51 51 52 52
ERIONYL
A acid dyes
Ciba LANASET acid/metal complex dyes Ciba POLAR acid dyes Notes on the pattern section
Standard dyeings Fastness properties Artificial light/Philips TL 84 Dischargeability Build up Migration Barriness
CH 3 : Auxiliaries
Ciba ALBEGAL SET leveling agent CIBAFAST AO anti oxidant for polyamide CIBAFIX
53
53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61
CIBAFIX PAS fixative for polyamide CIBAFIX ECO fixative for cellulose CIBAFLOW CIR penetration accelerant CIBAFLOW JET penetration accelerant CIBAFLUID C lubricant Ciba UNIVADINE MC NEW leveling agent for polyamide Ciba UNIVADINE PA NEW leveling agent for acid dyes / Ciba NEW leveling agent for acid dyes
UNIVADINE NT 62
CH 4 : Miscellaneous
63
IV
CH 1 : Description
Characteristics and benefits of the Ciba concept for polyamide/elastane
Properties
Broad dye selection
Customer benefits
brilliant shades with high wet and light fastness brilliant and restrained combination shades at all depths flexibility for meeting changing market needs and fashion trends
3 compact ranges with similar dyeing behavior Supported by selected brilliant acid dyes
targeted dye selection for all requirements excellent compatibility easy dye selection
high light fastness for pale shades (TECTILON) high wet fastness for deep shades (LANASET) tailor-made products for all requirements suitable for Oeko-Tex Standard 100
High exhaustion
dye selection for tone-in-tone staining selected dyes give good reservation of elastane
1/63
General
This pattern card provides recommendations on dyeing polyamide/elastane blends. All dyes used for polyamide stain elastane to a greater or lesser extent, therefore the wet fastness level on this blend is usually lower than on pure polyamide. The dyes recommended for polyamide /elastane in this pattern card are:
(acid dyes) (acid dyes) (modified 1:2 metal complex and reactive dyes) (acid dyes)
The ranges complement each other in their dyeing properties, and enable the different requirements in the various outlets for polyamide/elastane material to be met. The pattern card contains useful information on pretreatment, bleaching/fluorescent whitening, dye selection, compatibility, dyeing procedures and textile auxiliaries. Dyeing parameters are also detailed. All dyes are illustrated as self shades on a representative swimwear fabric made from 40 denier extra dull PA 6 yarn blended with 20% elastane. All fastness data and details of application properties in this pattern card were tested on this material.
Outlets
Textured and non-textured filament and staple fiber yarns are blended with elastane fibers to make a variety of knitted and woven elastic apparel e.g.: sports and swimwear underwear and foundation garments pantyhose and therapeutic elastic stockings elastic ribbons and tapes tulle and lace
Polyamide fibers
Polyamide belongs to the polycondensate group of fibers, the most important of these being PA 6 (perlon type) and PA 66 (nylon type), which differ somewhat in their physical and dyeing properties. The perlon type is slightly less temperature-resistant, but easier to dye. Somewhat better fastness properties can be expected with the nylon types. The following fiber properties and/or pretreatment processes are among the parameters that can influence the result. Fiber surface/cross section (round, trilobal, etc.) The more highly structured and the larger the surface, the lower the color strength and thus the lower the light fastness. Fineness (dtex) The finer the fibers or fibrils, the lower the color strength and the wet fastness properties. Delustring The higher the degree of delustring, the lower the color strength and thus the lower the light fastness. Texturing Color strength is lower on textured than on smooth yarns.
2/63
Elastane fibers
Elastane fibers (EL) consist of at least 85% polyurethane, built up of linear macromolecules arranged in segments. The macromolecules contain alternating hard and soft segments. The hard segments (short crystalline zones) impart stability to the fiber, the soft segments, which are long, unstructured and flexible, give the polymer its rubber-like stretchiness. Elastane fibers can be stretched four to seven times their initial length and spring back to the original length when the tension is released. Elastane fibers are composed of fused filaments, fineness range 112500 dtex. They are available in dull white, semi-transparent, bright and clear versions. Elastane in blends with polyamide is used bare (foundation wear, swimwear, circular knits etc.) or covered by PA (hosiery, socks, narrow fabrics, woven). Elastane fibers are often stained by acid and metal complex dyes, but it is difficult to achieve tone-in-tone effects, especially with the dull types used bare (not covered). Stretching such kind of fabrics can lead to grin through of the elastic component. With the transparent types of elastane these undesirable features are less marked. Elastane fibers are resistant to acids, alkalis, oxidizing and reducing agents under the usual pretreatment, dyeing and finishing conditions. Chlorine bleaching agents cause loss of strength and discoloration. There are specific types of elastane, which are recommended for swimwear.
3/63
Processing routes
Most commonly relaxation and heat setting are the first steps prior to scouring. This is the more economical route but it entails risks: during heat setting impurities and degradation products of lubricants can be baked into the fabric, forming heavy fumes can be created during heat setting, causing environmental problems and staining of the stenter by condensation products. If the above problems occur, scouring (i.e. on a soft flow jet) before heat setting is a good remedy. This scouring step will also induce proper relaxation of the fabric so that further steam relaxation before heat setting is not necessary. Setting after dyeing can cause color changes through fiber yellowing or reduction of wet fastness owing to thermomigration of dyes. Pre-setting conditions are therefore always more severe in order to allow postsetting under milder conditions. stains which resist even harsh scouring.
Relaxation
During weaving or knitting the elastic yarns are under a certain tension, which is then incorporated in the fabric. Relaxation prior to heat setting is an important part of processing elastic fabrics as it avoids rope marks and puckering during dyeing and guarantees good dimensional stability. Depending on the processing route, relaxation is done: by steaming (steam table or steam box in front of the stenter before heat-setting) in the pre-scouring bath before heat setting.
Heat setting
Open width heat setting controlled by temperature, overfeed and holding to width determines the desired stretch level as well as the final fabric weight and width. Circular knitted material shows less tendency to selvage curling during dyeing if properly heat-set prior to dyeing. Heat setting is performed at 180 ~ 190C/356 ~ 374F for 30 ~ 45 sec. Higher temperatures cause yellowing of elastane and reduction of elasticity.
Alternatively, if a special heat-setting machine for tubular material is used, the fabrics can be dyed in the tubular make-up form without any problems.
Pretreatment
Scouring/relaxation
Silicone oils and lubricants should be thoroughly removed from the fabric before dyeing. They have a negative influence on leveling of dyes, resulting in reduced fastness and limited build up.
4/63
Suggested recipe
2030 min at 6090C/140194F hot rinse A very essential part of the scouring process is the following rinse. The scouring liquor should never be cooled by rinsing with cold water because the emulsified oils will precipitate again, leaving spots on the textile. The most efficient routine is to give a good overflow rinse with hot water, then drain the machine and use cold water only in the final rinse before dyeing.
Bleaching/fluorescent whitening
A high proportion of polyamide goes into white goods. Typical items are locknit charmeuse for underwear, lace and foundation garments. The usual reduction bleach is generally not sufficient to achieve the required degree of whiteness. The goods must therefore be fluorescent whitened in addition, preferably using products that are stable in the reduction bleach bath. Suggested recipe 1.02.0 g/L 3.05.0 g/L INVADINE DA or ULTRAVON EL stabilized sodium dithionite, e.g. CLARITE PS fluorescent whitening agent 10:1 to 20:1
g/L
liquor ratio
4560 min at 7580C/167176F Rinse and add 0.5 ml hydrogen peroxide 35% to the final rinsing bath to /L remove residual sulfurous compounds. If required, a fluorescent whitening agent (FWA) can be added to the reduction bleaching bath. The following FWAs can be used, depending on required shade. Care must be taken to adjust the pH to that most suitable for the respective product.
FWA
UVITEX NFW l iq. UVITEX PLF l iq. UVITEX CF l iq. 200% UVITEX BHT l iq. 115%
Required amount
0.52.0% 0.52.5% 0.52.0% 0.753.0%
pH
46 46 67 7
Shade
violet slightly reddish red neutral blue
Dyeing machines
High temperature and mechanical stress on the material during the dyeing process are factors which can cause a loss of elasticity. The sensitivity of the elastic material to the mechanical dyeing conditions is dependent on the content of elastane. The most sensitive are fabrics with more than 25% elastane, and to preserve their elasticity only beam dyeing machines are recommended for them. Textiles containing more than 10% elastane should be dyed on so-called soft flow jets. The circulation of the rope of textile is very smooth and soft for two reasons: very short distance between liquor surface and winch fully flooded material transportation through the dye liquor.
5/63
Fabrics with less than 10% elastane can be dyed on modern air jets; they have a very low liquor ratio and their high speed guarantees good levelness. They are more useful than conventional jets for elastane fabrics because the air-flow used to transport the fabric reduces the liquor content in the textile, the wet fabric is therefore lighter and less stretched when pulled through the transportation unit. A further advantage of this machine type is better opening of the rope during dyeing; this means less curling of the selvages of open width circular knits.
Dye selection
General
Widely varying substrate forms and end products mean that the different requirements of polyamide dyeing cannot be covered by a single dye range. Selective use of the different ranges allows the different requirements to be met.
6/63
Properties
High light fastness, including in pale shades Outstanding migration and excellent leveling properties Very good coverage of physical affinity differences Ideal for pantyhose shades and typical pale underwear shades Fully compatible (trichromatic systems) Metal-free Simple dyeing procedure
Property profile
SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating
7/63
Properties
Good build up to deep shades on different types of polyamide Medium to very good light fastness properties Good wet fastness properties to medium shades; deep shades require aftertreatment Good coverage of physical barriness with the addition of a leveling agent Compatible dyes for a wide range of shades; on their own for brilliant fashion shades. Selected POLAR dyes supplement this shade area. Medium to good migration
Property profile
SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating
8/63
Properties
Very good build up on different types of polyamide (microfibers) High light fastness at all shade depths Very high wet fastness properties, including in deep shades Medium migration, moderate coverage of physical affinity differences in the fiber. A new leveling agent and a modified dyeing procedure can help to overcome these limitations Good compatibility if recommendations are followed
Property profile
SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating
9/63
10/63
TECTILON
Yellow 2G Yellow 3R Red 2B Blue 4R-01 Blue 6G
ERIONYL A
Yellow A-3G Yellow A-R Red A-3G Red A-2BF Red A-3B Bord. A-5B Violet A-B Blue A-R Blue A-4G Turquoise A-G Green A-BG Navy A-R Black M-R Black M-BN
LANASET
Yellow 4GN Yellow 2R Orange RN Brown G-01 Brown B Red G Red 2B Bordeaux B Violet B Blue 2R Blue 5G Green B Gray G Navy R Black B
= basis
= shading component
= trichromatic dye
11/63
Dyeing
Parameters influencing dyeing
Dyeing temperature
Elastane fibers are sensitive to high temperatures. To preserve their elasticity dyeing temperatures above the boil are not recommended.
Dyeing pH
The optimum pH varies with type of dye, shade depth and type of fiber. It is advisable to adjust the pH with a buffer. pH Sodium acetate or ammonium acetate Acetic acid 80% Monosodium phosphate Disodium phosphate g/L ml /L g/L g/L 4.5 0.5 0.5 5 1 0.4 5.5 2 0.3 6 2 2 0.5 6.5 23 1.5 1 7 0.5 1.5 8 2
The pH depends closely on the process water, and the above figures should thus be regarded as guidelines. A rise in pH is to be expected on heating permutit water.
Migration
The movement of the dye in or on the substrate from points of higher to points of lower concentration is known as migration. Migration depends primarily on the constitution of the dye, but is also affected to a varying degree by the type of fiber and treatment conditions (pH, auxiliaries, temperature, time). Migration is an indication of the leveling power of a dye.
Barriness
Production-related physical and chemical differences in the fiber material and also stretching differences can result in barriness. Barriness can be covered to varying degrees by selecting suitable dyes and using appropriate dyeing auxiliaries and procedures.
Build up
Build up refers to the maximum shade depth achieved with a specific dye. It is primarily determined by the dyes chemical constitution. Fiber properties, especially the saturation limit, also play a role.
Blocking
Mutual displacement of individual acid dyes from the fiber during dyeing is known as blocking. This effect depends mainly on dye constitution, but also on dye concentration, fiber saturation, auxiliaries, pH and temperature. Thus disulfo dyes on polyamide are blocked to a varying degree by monosulfo dyes. Dye selection plays an important role in preventing blocking (seeRecommendations for combination shadespage 10, Table 1 : Recommendations for combination shadespage 11).
Auxiliaries and chemicals should not be added during dissolving. The dye solution should always be added to the dyebath through a strainer or sieve. For further details on solubility of the individual dyes, please see the fastness tables in the pattern section. The temperature of dye solutions containing LANASET Red 2B should not exceed 60C/140F. Ciba Specialty Chemicals
12/63
Dyeing chemicals
Penetration accelerants
These products are added to the dyebath to de-aerate and rapidly wet out the goods. They also have a foamsuppressing effect. The penetration accelerants recommended here, CIBAFLOW CIR and CIBAFLOW JET, have specific applications. CIBAFLOW CIR achieves a balance between wetting out, de-aerating and defoaming. It is mainly used in circulating liquor dyeing (beam dyeing). CIBAFLOW JET has a durable antifoam effect and is used in jet dyeing.
Crease prevention
CIBAFLUID U and CIBAFLUID C are used for crease prevention in piece dyeing. They prevent cracks, creases and abrasion marks in winches and jets without impairing the quality of the dyeing. These products also enhance the running properties of elastic fabrics, resulting in less tension during dyeing and therefore better preservation of the elasticity.
13/63
Dyeing procedures
Ciba TECTILON, Ciba ERIONYL A and Ciba POLAR acid dyes
Winch/overflow/jet Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine
CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET CIBAFLUID U or CIBAFLUID C UNIVADINE PA NEW or UNIVADINE NT NEW ammonium acetate or sodium acetate with acetic acid
Notes
TECTILON dyes are generally applied at pH 4.55.5, Ciba ERIONYL A dyes at slightly higher pH (56). For Ciba ERIONYL Turquoise A-G seeERIONYL Turquoise A-Gpage 34. A pH at around the top limit is advisable for pale dyeings. Wet fastness properties can be improved by aftertreatment (seeImproving wet fastness propertiespage 17).
14/63
*
A
Same withCiba TECTILON, Ciba ERIONYL A and Ciba POLAR acid dyes 0.30.5 g/L 12 12 12 pH 4.57 g/L % g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET CIBAFLUID U or CIBAFLUID C ALBEGAL SET or UNIVADINE MC NEW ammonium acetate or sodium acetate with acetic acid % LANASET dye
LANASET Black B:
1.5-3% acetic acid 80%, pH 4-4.5
15/63
CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET CIBAFLUID U or CIBAFLUID C ALBEGAL SET or UNIVADINE MC NEW (for LANASET dyes) UNIVADINE PA NEW or UNIVADINE NT NEW (for acid dyes) disodium phosphate (Na2HPO4)
dyes
(C) Notes
Very high requirements for wash fastness at higher temperatures (60C/140F) force the dyer to switch to high fastness dyes for shade areas where acid leveling dyes are normally used. High fastness dyes tend to be unlevel and to accentuate physical affinity differences in polyamide fabrics, resulting in barriness. The reason for this is the very fast first strike of such dyes if applied under slightly acid conditions. Their migration properties are limited; this means that during heating and boiling there is not much chance to correct initial unlevelness. Experience has shown that dyeing at an alkaline pH is a very practical method of slowing down the exhaustion rate and of greatly improving levelness. Typical pale underwear shades (skin shades) are dyed at pH 8 to 8.5. This ensures outstanding slow tone-in-tone build up during heating, and full exhaustion at the boil, resulting in excellent reproducibility.
16/63
A B
23 pH 4.5
17/63
A B C Notes
23 pH 4.5 3.0
CIBAFIX ECO
With very deep shades as well as with black and navy (dyed with premetallized dyes) on polyamide / elastane blends, a further aftertreatment enhances fastness still more. After anionic fixation with CIBAFIX PAS the cationic fixing agent CIBAFIX ECO is applied. Thorough rinsing after application of CIBAFIX PAS is essential; residues in the bath will cause precipitation with cationic fixing agents. As a time-saving alternative, CIBAFIX ECO can also be applied together with a softener in a final pad treatment before drying on the stenter.
18/63
Finishing
Softening by exhaust method
14 g/L % MEGASOFT JET-LF acetic acid
x
pH 55.5
pick up 6080%, rapid curing at 110180C/230356F (in stages) for 3040 sec.
Shading
If shading is required, the dyebath generally has to be cooled to 6070C/140158F before the dyes are added. TECTILON dyes can also be added at temperatures close to the boil with the steam switched off.
30 min at 98C/208F In critical cases, the treatment can be repeated. Before re-dyeing, the pH must be corrected with acetic acid. The attainable effects are shown in the table in the pattern section.
19/63
Radical stripping
Dyes can be radically or completely stripped by the following method: Reduction 3 2 g/L % Decrolin (BASF) formic acid 85%
30 min at 98C/208F rinse warm and cold Oxidation stripping with sodium chlorite is unsuitable because elastane fibers are not stable to chlorine. Stripping can impair light fastness and build up of the dyes. The most suitable method must be determined by conducting preliminary trials.
Microfibers
General
High comfort in wear and easy care make woven and knitted goods of polyamide microfibers popular for functional leisure and sports wear. Polyamide microfibers, which are supplied by numerous manufacturers, vary widely in fineness, degree of delustring, fiber profiles and surface modifications. Brand names include Supplex/Tactel (Du Pont), Meryl Micro (Rhne-Poulenc, Viscosuisse) and Siks Micro (Snia Fibres). Microfibers are polyamide filament yarns whose individual filament fineness is less than 1 dtex. Fabrics are labeled micro if at least one system, warp or weft, consists of microfibers. Fiber Coarse Medium fine Fine Micro Super fine Fineness > 7 dtex 72.4 dtex 2.41 dtex 10.3 dtex < 0.3 dtex
Fastness properties
Light and wet fastness properties of polyamide microfibers are often considerably poorer (1/2 ~ 1 rating) than those of conventional polyamide fibers. Fastness depends closely on the type of fiber.
Dyeing
On account of their extreme fineness, microfibers have several special dyeing characteristics, and these are discussed below. For other information, please see the general section. Microfiber filament yarns require higher amounts of dye than conventional filament yarns to achieve a given shade depth. Fastness properties required of functional clothing are high and not always easy to achieve. TECTILON and ERIONYL A dyes are suitable for pale and medium shades (procedures described on page 14Dyeing procedures). For good build up and high fastness with medium and deep shades, LANASET dyes are usually required.
20/63
Fastness requirements depend on the end product. As narrow fabrics are frequently used for underwear, fastness to perspiration and washing are essential. Fastness to rubbing is important with deep dyeings. Products from the TECTILON, ERIONYL A, LANASET and POLAR ranges are suitable for dyeing. TECTILON dyes are recommended for pale shades, ERIONYL A and POLAR for medium and deep shades. LANASET dyes meet very high wet fastness requirements. The most important criterion for dye selection is adequate solubility at room temperature. Good build up in the shortest possible steaming time is a major factor too.
21/63
Pad liquor x
320 1 0.5 g/L g/L g/L g/L g/L TECTILON, ERIONYL, LANASET or POLAR dyes IRGAPADOL PN NEW INVADINE LUN FUMEXOL DF acid
Medium shades (< 1.5%) 1.02.0 g/L Deep shades (> 1.5%) 4.05.0 g/L Black 3.0 3.0 g/L ml /L citric acid acetic acid 80% pH 4 citric acid pH 4 citric acid pH 5
Steaming
The fixation of the dyes takes place during steaming. Steaming temperature and time are the key factors for achieving sufficient build-up and fastness, but too high a steaming temperature can affect the handle. The usual steaming conditions are 36 min. with superheated steam at 100102C/212216F, very deep shades and black and navy need up to 8 min. at a temperature of 102106C/216223F.
22/63
Textile auxiliaries
Products Ciba
Effects
Benefits
prevents dye agglomeration promotes migration and diffusion promotes on-tone build-up with dye combinations gives fabrics a soft, smooth handle with a rich silky touch allows production of fabrics with a high whiteness and minimal shade change minimal effect on wet fastness and crocking fastness improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion resistance reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole formation during garment manufacture and use
ALBEGAL
SET
CIBAFAST
AO
reduces fiber degradation due to light and especially heat improves light fastness of dyeings in pale and medium shades suitable for all PA6 and PA66 very good affinity for the fiber and good liquor stability metal-free
CIBAFIX
CL
natural product to improve chlorine and wet fastness (100% biodegradable) improves fastness properties of fiber and dyeing recommended for all kinds of swimwear fabric excellent build up and leveling power applicable over a wide pH range (pH 36) high exhaustion rate
CIBAFIX ECO
fixative cationic
for very deep shades to enhance wet fastness CIBAFIX ECO is applied on PA/EL after anionic fixation with CIBAFIX PAS maximum wet fastness improvement good dye bath stability in presence of acid especially recommended in circulating liquor dyeing
fixative anionic
penetration accelerant instant penetration of dye liquor into the textile material anionic machines (beam, package) APEO- and solvent-free faultless cloth run in jets, no stoppage, no damage to goods (creases) durable antifoam effect anionic APEO- and solvent-free no formation of permanent creases during dyeing ropes open and displace more easily, therefore improving levelness
CIBAFLOW
JET
CIBAFLUID C CIBAFLUID
23/63
Effects
stabilized reduction bleaching agent anionic
Benefits
improves whiteness on polyamide and in combination with a peroxide bleach gives a higher and more stable white on wool, cellulosics and silk bleach baths containing CLARITE PS are active longer than those containing a nonstabilized reduction agent high complexing power for heavy metals (e.g. iron) and alkaline earth ions high cleaning action with booster effect on surfactants high stability in hard water
Ciba
FUMEXOL
DF
prevents and eliminates foam during textile processing in aqueous media strong de-aerating effect and wetting power applicable in different processes, in highly alkaline to acid liquors and at all temperatures stable to electrolytes and compatible with enzymes free of APEO, solvents and mineral oils
Ciba XAN
HYDROPHOBOL
extender cationic padding agent slightly anionic wetting agent and detergent anionic/nonionic
optimizing the oil and water repellent effects quick and even penetration good leveling, no frosting effect on structured material low foaming for batchwise pretreatment and continuous immersion processes good detergency with excellent emulsifying properties all-round applicability through high stability to bleaching chemicals APEO-free
detergent, wetting and outstanding wetting and de-aerating properties, de-aerating agent weakly anionic including in cold liquors enhanced rewetting power good detergency and dispersing action well suited for washing-off greasy, oily impurities and pigment soil
excellent wetting effect for oil and water repellent finishes avoids build up on rollers, particularly with paraffin emulsions containing metal salt no influence on the water and oil repellent effect
Ciba
INVATEX
CS
prevents precipitations of metal hydroxides, carbonates and silicates on goods and machinery crystallization-inhibiting properties (threshold-effect) enhances the effect of simultaneously applied detergents and dispersants high stability to alkali, oxidation and hydrolysis
24/63
Products LF
Effects
Benefits
gives fabrics a warm luxurious feel very high mechanical stability reduces processing problems improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion resistance reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole formation during garment manufacture and use applicable with TEFLON finishes
excellent and durable protection against rain, stains, dust and dirt good, long-lasting water and stain protection Laundry Air Dry properties (LAD) dust and dirt can easily be shaken or brushed off high leveling promoting properties especially helpful for shade weakening and correction of unlevelness prevents filtration of dye dispersions in high density muffs and packages improves rubbing fastness promotes leveling suitable for acid and alkaline conditions
Ciba
OLEOPHOBOL
oil, water, stain repellency cationic leveling, dye affinity slightly cationic
Ciba
UNIVADINE
DP
dispersant anionic
Ciba
UNIVADINE
MC
outstanding coverage of barriness improvement of migration of 1:2 metal complex dyes excellent coverage of barriness excellent leveling/migration no negative blocking or retarding behavior good coverage of barriness good leveling/migration behavior application in batchwise and underliquor pretreatments excellent washing and wetting power dispersing effect with crystallizationinhibiting (threshold) effect good cleaning and degreasing properties all-round applicability through high stability to bleaching chemicals low foaming, contains no antifoam
UNIVADINE
NT
leveling of acid dyes anionic detergent and dispersant, wetting agent anionic
gives fabrics a very specific soft, silicone-like and bulky handle improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion resistance reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole formation during garment manufacture and use increases fabric resilience
25/63
Products 115%
Effects
agent anionic stilbene derivative
Benefits
neutral to blue white shade for cellulose, polyamide, wool and silk particularly recommended for exhaust application in reduction bleaches very good wash fastness reddish white shade for cellulose, polyamide, wool and silk particularly recommended for exhaust application in reduction bleaches very good wash fastness violet white shade for polyamide, wool, silk and cellulose suitable for exhaust and pad application
anionic distyryldiphenyl very good stability to reducing agents and acids derivative outstanding fastness properties slightly reddish white shade for polyamide and cellulosic fibers especially recommended when high light fastness is anionic stilbene derivative required suitable for exhaust processes, has good leveling properties highly appropriate for whitening of swimwear fabrics
reduces fabric processing problems especially in fabric cutting and sewing reduces static cling during display and wearing of garments
26/63
Edition 2001/2002
Copyright 2001 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc. All rights reserved. All product names in capital letters are either registered or pending trademarks and property of Ciba Specialty Chemicals. IMPORTANT: The following supersedes Buyers documents. SELLER MAKES NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY,
EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. No statements herein are to be construed as inducements to infringe any relevant patent. Under
no circumstances shall Seller be liable for incidental, consequential or indirect damages for alleged negligence, breach of warranty, strict liability, tort or contract arising in connection with the product(s). Buyers sole remedy and Sellers sole liability for any claims shall be Buyers purchase price. Data and results are based on controlled or lab work and must be confirmed by Buyer by testing for the intended conditions of use. The product(s) has (have) not been tested for, and is (are) therefore not recommended for, uses for which prolonged contact with mucous membranes, abraded skin, or blood is intended; or for uses for which implantation within the human body is intended. Please note that products may differ from country to country. If you have any queries, kindly contact your local Ciba Specialty Chemicals representative. Further information at website: http://www.cibasc.com Ciba Specialty Chemicals is a member of:
(Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers) 641001e.doc Dec-01, Printed in Switzerland.
27/63
CH 2 : Dyes
28/63
Ciba Tectilon acid dyes Yellow 2G 200% Yellow 3R 200% Red 2B 200%
Lightfast, bright yellow for self shades. In combination with TECTILON Blue 6G for brilliant green shades. C.I. Acid Yellow 169 Highly lightfast trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Red 2B and TECTILON Blue 4R-01. C.I. Acid Yellow 246 Trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Yellow 3R and TECTILON Blue 4R-01. C.I. Acid Red 361
Blue 4R-01 200% Trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Yellow 3R and TECTILON Red 2B.
Shade shift towards red in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 27
Blue 6G 200%
For combination with TECTILON Yellow 2G for brilliant green shades, and with TECTILON Yellow 3R for dull green shades. Shade shift towards green in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 258
New trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Red 2B and TECTILON Blue 4R01. C.I. Acid Yellow 219
0.06%
0.8%
0.09%
1.1%
0.05%
0.6%
0.14%
1.7%
0.055%
0.65%
29/63
Tectilon
Yellow 2G 200% Yellow 3R 200% Red 2B 200% Blue 4R-01 200% Blue 6G 200%
% 0 .8 0 .6 0.65 1 .1 1 .7
Solubility g/L 30C 40 100 100 80 10 60C 100 100 100 80 10 90C 100 100 100 100 15
EL staining 23 12 2 12 23
Washing
Tectilon
Yellow 2G 200%
% Ch 0 .8 45 45
Water PA 3 45 3 45 23 45 23 45 23 4 CV 5 5 5 5 45 5 45 5 5 5
Yellow 3R 200%
0 .6
4 45
Red 2B 200%
0.65
45 45
1 .1
4 45
Blue 6G 200%
1 .7
34 45
Tectilon
Yellow 2G 200%
% Ch 0 .8 45 5
Sea water PA 34 45 34 45 3 45 3 45 3 45 CV 45 5 45 5 45 5 4 5 45 5
Perspiration, alkaline Ch 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 45 45 45 PA 34 45 34 45 3 45 3 4 3 4 CV 45 5 45 5 45 5 4 45 45 5
Yellow 3R 200%
0 .6
45 45
Red 2B 200%
0.65
45 45
1 .1
45 45
Blue 6G 200%
1 .7
45 45
30/63
Dry cleaning
Tectilon
Yellow 2G 200%
perchloreth. Ch
Dischargeability 4
partial %
Stripping
reduction oxidation
0 .8
45 45
80
G G
Yellow 3R 200%
0 .6
45 5
45
65
Red 2B 200%
0.65
45 45
45
65
1 .1
45 45
70
Blue 6G 200%
1 .7
45 45
45
60
Stripping:
completely stripped
partially stripped
no effect
31/63
32/63
Yellow A-R
Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Red A-2BF, ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B and ERIONYL Blue A-R. Good build up and balanced dyeing behavior. C.I. Acid Orange 67
Red A-3G Red A-2BF Red A-3B Bordeaux A-5B Violet A-B
For self shades and as a basis for deep red shades with adequate light and wet fastness. C.I. Acid Red 447 Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-R. Neutral red with high light fastness. C.I. Acid Red 127 ? On its own for bright, bluish red fashion shades. Light fastness in deep shades adequate. C.I. Acid Red 131 Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-R. For deep and dull fashion shades with high fastness. C.I. Acid Red 299 On its own for highly lightfast violet shades. In combination with ERIONYL Red A-2BF, 109
(Lanaset Violet B) ERIONYL Red A-3B and ERIONYL Blue A-R for the fashion violet sector. C.I. Acid Violet Blue A-R
Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R, ERIONYL Red A-2BF and ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B. For bright royal blue self shades. Very good levelness, high wet fastness. C.I. Acid Blue 260
Greenish blue for green shades in combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-3G and ERIONYL Green A-BG. To correct shade shift towards green in artificial light. For self shades. Can be shaded with ERIONYL Yellow A-3G for brilliant green shades. Fairly good build-up on different types of polyamide. To achieve good exhaustion, dyeing at pH 4.55.5 is recommended and the use of ALBEGAL SET instead of UNIVADINE PA/NT. Barriness largely covered under HT conditions.
Basis for dull green and olive shades with shading dyes ERIONYL Blue A-4G, ERIONYL Yellow A-3G and ERIONYL Yellow A-R. Neutral, cost-effective navy blue. Can be shaded with ERIONYL Violet A-B, ERIONYL Blue A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-4G. Blue component for deep olive shades. C.I. Acid Blue 113 Black with high wet fastness. Shade shift in artificial light towards red can be corrected with ERIONYL Yellow A-R or ERIONYL Blue A-4G. C.I. Acid Black 172 Deep, neutral black with very good build up on different types of polyamide. High light fastness, wet fastness slightly lower than that of ERIONYL Black M-R. C.I. Acid Black 63:1
33/63
0.25%
0.75%
1.5%
0.32%
0.95%
1.9%
0.17%
0.5%
1.0%
0.33%
1.0%
2.0%
0.17%
0.5%
1.0%
0.13%
0.38%
0.75%
0.23%
0.7%
1.4%
0.32%
0.95%
1.9%
0.15%
0.45%
0.9%
0.65%
1.0%
2.0%
0.1%
0.3%
0.6%
2.0%
3.0%
4.0%
0.25%
0.75%
1.5%
1.9%
2.9%
3.8%
34/63
ERIONYL A
Yellow A-3G Yellow A-R Red A-3G Red A-2BF Red A-3B Bordeaux A-5B Violet A-B Blue A-R Blue A-4G Turquoise A-G Green A-BG Navy A-R Black M-R Black M-BN
Xenon lamp SD 1/12 56 5 23 45 23 45 5 56 56 12 56 1/3 6 56 3 5 3 45 5 6 6 2G 56 N/L 45 B/L 67 B/L 7 1/1 67 67 34 56 34 5 56 67 6 3G 56 N/Dk 56 B/Dk 7 B/Dk 78
Solubility g/L 30C 40 20 30 80 5 15 40 20 30 30 40 100 60 30 60C 40 25 70 100 15 15 40 30 30 30 45 100 60 30 90C 50 100 100 100 70 80 70 80 80 30 55 100 80 70
EL staining 3 12 2G 12 12 1 3 2 23 12 23 B 12 23 R 3
35/63
Washing
ERIONYL A
Yellow A-3G
% Ch 1 .5 5 5
Water PA 4 45 4 45 4 45 3 45 34 45 4 5 45 5 3 4 23 4 5 5 4 45 4 45 3 45 45 5 CV 5 5 45 5 5 5 5 5 45 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
Yellow A-R
1 .0
4 45
Red A-3G
1 .0
45 5
Red A-2BF
1 .4
45 5
Red A-3B
0 .9
4-5 5
Bordeaux A-5B
0 .6
4 4-5
Violet A-B
1 .5
45 5
Blue A-R
1 .9
45 5
Blue A-4G
2 .0
45 5
Turquoise A-G
0.75
4-5 5
Green A-BG
1 .9
45 45
Navy A-R
1 .0
45 45
Black M-R
4 .0
45 5
Black M-BN
3 .8
45 45
36/63
ERIONYL A
Yellow A-3G
% Ch 1 .5 45 45
Sea water PA 45 5 45 5 45 5 4 5 4 5 4 5 45 5 4 45 34 45 5 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 5 5 CV 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 5 5
Perspiration, alkaline Ch 5 5 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 5 5 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 PA 4 5 4 5 4 5 34 45 34 5 4 5 45 5 34 45 3 45 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 45 45 5 CV 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 4 5 45 5 45 5 45 45 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 45 45 45
Yellow A-R
1 .0
45 45
Red A-3G
1 .0
45 45
Red A-2BF
1 .4
45 45
Red A-3B
0 .9
45 45
Bordeaux A-5B
0 .6
45 45
Violet A-B
1 .5
5 5
Blue A-R
1 .9
45 45
Blue A-4G
2 .0
45 45
Turquoise A-G
0.75
45 45
Green A-BG
1 .9
5 5
Navy A-R
1 .0
45 45
Black M-R
4 .0
45 45
Black M-BN
3 .8
45 5
37/63
Dry cleaning
ERIONYL A
Yellow A-3G
perchloreth. Ch
Dischargeability 45
partial %
Stripping
reduction oxidation
1 .5
45 45
30
Bn G G Bn G Bn G Bn
Y Y Bn Bn
Yellow A-R
1 .0
4 45
45
45
50
Red A-3G
1 .0
4 45
45
45
35
Red A-2BF
1 .4
4 4
34
45
45
60
Red A-3B
0 .9
4 45
23
45
65
Bordeaux A-5B
0 .6
45 45
20
Violet A-B
1 .5
45 45
34
15
Blue A-R
1 .9
45 45
45
45
30
Blue A-4G
2 .0
45 45
23
23
35
Turquoise A-G
0.75
45 45
23
10
Green A-BG
1 .9
45 45
34
30
Navy A-R
1 .0
4 45
30
Black M-R
4 .0
45 45
34
34
12
10
Black M-BN
3 .8
45 45
23
34
34
Stripping:
completely stripped
partially stripped
no effect
38/63
39/63
Ciba LANASET acid/metal complex dyes Yellow 4GN Yellow 2R Orange RN Brown G-01 Brown B Red G Red 2B Bordeaux B Violet B (ERIONYL Violet A-B) Blue 2R (POLAR Blue RLS 200%) Blue 5G Green B Gray G Navy R Black B Blue 2RA Yellow PA 125% Red PA 200% Blue PA Blue PA2R 115%
Greenish blue. In combination with LANASET Yellow 4GN for brilliant green shades. To correct shade shift towards green in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 239 Basis for dull green and olive shades for combination with LANASET Blue 5G. For shading and combination with LANASET Yellow 2R and LANASET Red G. Cost-effective navy blue. Can be shaded with LANASET Blue 5G, LANASET Blue 2R and LANASET Violet B. Neutral black with good build up. Also suitable for gray shades. Bright blue self dye for royal blue shades. Can be shaded with LANASET Violet B and LANASET Blue 5G. C.I. Acid Blue 225 Basis for bright yellow shades. In combination with LANASET Blue 5G for brilliant green shades. For shading and combination with LANASET Red G and LANASET Gray G for dull shades. Basis for brilliant orange shades with very good build up. Basis for medium beige and brown shades with good light fastness. Basis for cost-effective dark brown shades with ultra high light fastness. Shading and combination dye for use with LANASET Yellow 2R and LANASET Gray G. For brilliant red self shades with high light and wet fastness. Basis for bordeaux shades. Limited suitability for pale shades on account of low light fastness. Highly lightfast violet dye for self shades. Can be shaded with LANASET Red 2B and LANASET Blue 2R. C.I. Acid Violet 109
40/63
LANASET Violet B
0.65%
1.3%
2.6%
0.85%
1.7%
3.4%
LANASET Yellow 2R
LANASET Blue 2R
0.75%
1.5%
3.0%
1.0%
2.0%
4.0%
LANASET Orange RN
LANASET Blue 5G
0.9%
1.8%
3.6%
1.1%
2.2%
4.4%
LANASET Green B
0.7%
1.4%
2.8%
0.9%
1.8%
3.6%
LANASET Brown B
LANASET Gray G
0.6%
1.2%
2.4%
0.5%
1.0%
2.0%
LANASET Red G
LANASET Navy R
0.55%
1.1%
2.2%
1.5%
2.2%
4.4%
LANASET Red 2B
LANASET Black B
0.95%
1.9%
3.8%
2.0%
3.0%
4.0%
LANASET Bordeaux B
0.48%
0.95%
1.9%
41/63
LANASET
Yellow 4GN Yellow 2R Orange RN Brown G-01 Brown B Red G Red 2B Bordeaux B Violet B Blue 2R Blue 5G Green B Gray G Navy R Black B
Solubility g/L 30C 100 100 65 70 100 100 15 20 60 100 100 80 80 100 80 60C 100 100 80 80 100 100 15 40 60 100 100 80 80 100 80 90C 100 100 80 80 100 100 30 100 100 100 100 80 100 100 80
EL staining 2 34 2 2 2 2 3 12 4 1 3 2 2 23 3
42/63
Washing
LANASET
Yellow 4GN
% Ch 1 .3 5 5
Water PA 4 45 45 45 45 5 45 45 45 5 45 5 34 45 45 5 45 45 3 45 4 45 4 5 45 5 45 5 34 4 CV 5 5 5 5 45 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
Yellow 2R
1 .5
45 45
Orange RN
1 .8
45 45
Brown G-01
1 .4
5 5
Brown B
1 .2
45 5
Red G
1 .1
5 5
Red 2B
1 .9
45 45
Bordeaux B
0.95
45 5
Violet B
1 .7
5 5
Blue 2R
2 .0
45 45
Blue 5G
2 .2
45 5
Green B
1 .8
5 5
Gray G
1 .0
45 5
Navy R
2 .2
45 5
Black B
4 .0
45 5
43/63
LANASET
Yellow 4GN
% Ch 1 .3 5 5
Sea water PA 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 4 45 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 CV 45 5 45 5 4 45 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 5 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5
Perspiration, alkaline Ch 45 5 5 5 45 5 45 45 45 5 45 45 45 45 45 45 5 5 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 5 45 45 5 5 PA 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 4 5 45 5 45 5 34 45 45 5 4 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 CV 45 5 45 5 4 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 45 5 4 5 45 5 4 5 45 5 45 5 45 5
Yellow 2R
1 .5
5 5
Orange RN
1 .8
5 5
Brown G-01
1 .4
45 45
Brown B
1 .2
45 45
Red G
1 .1
45 45
Red 2B
1 .9
45 45
Bordeaux B
0.95
5 5
Violet B
1 .7
5 5
Blue 2R
2 .0
45 45
Blue 5G
2 .2
45 45
Green B
1 .8
45 45
Gray G
1 .0
45 45
Navy R
2 .2
5 5
Black B
4 .0
5 5
44/63
Dry cleaning
LANASET
Yellow 4GN
perchloreth. Ch
Dischargeability 5
partial %
Stripping
reduction oxidation
1 .3
45 45
20
Bn V V V Bn G G Bn Bn V
Yellow 2R
1 .5
45 45
45
35
Orange RN
1 .8
45 45
34
45
25
Brown G-01
1 .4
45 45
34
45
45
30
Brown B
1 .2
45 45
45
30
Red G
1 .1
45 45
45
23
25
Red 2B
1 .9
45 45
34
45
34
30
Bordeaux B
0.95
45 45
34
45
25
Violet B
1 .7
45 45
23
20
Blue 2R
2 .0
45 45
34
45
45
20
Blue 5G
2 .2
4 45
25
Green B
1 .8
45 45
34
45
35
Gray G
1 .0
45 45
34
34
45
34
20
Navy R
2 .2
45 45
34
45
30
Black B
4 .0
5 5
23
34
34
12
10
Stripping:
completely stripped
partially stripped
no effect
45/63
46/63
Ciba POLAR acid dyes Orange GSN 150% Orange GRLS 200% Red B 125% Red RLS 200% Red 10B 140% Yellow GN-01 400% Yellow 5GN 280% C.I. Acid Yellow 110 Yellow 4G 160% Orange GRLS 200% Red 3BN 140% Red BL Blue 3RN Blue G 350% Blue 6B 350% Blue RAWL 150% Blue RLS 200%
C.I. Acid Blue 225 (LANASET Blue 2R) C.I. Acid Yellow 79 C.I. Acid Orange 94 Very bright orange for self shades with moderate light fastness. Very high wetfastness properties. Highly lightfast bright orange for self shades. Very high wet-fastness properties, but limited leveling. Very brilliant, neutral red for self shades. Moderate light fastness. High wet-fastness properties. Highly lightfast brilliant, bluish red for self shades. Very high wet-fastness properties. Brilliant, very bluish red for self shades with moderate light fastness. Very high wetfastness properties.
POLAR Orange GSN 150% 0.2% POLAR Orange GRLS 200% 0.25% 0.75% 1.5% 0.6% 1.2%
0.2%
0.6%
1.2%
0.16%
0.48%
0.95%
0.24%
0.73%
1.45%
47/63
POLAR
Orange GSN 150% Orange GRLS 200% Red B 125% Red RLS 200% Red 10B 140%
% 1 .2 1 .5 1.45 1 .2 0.95
Solubility g/L 30C 100 70 30 40 20 60C 100 90 70 70 50 90C 100 100 80 80 100
Artificial TL 84 light F G G G G F F G GF G
EL staining 2 23 23 2 23
Washing
POLAR
Orange GSN 150%
% Ch 1 .2 45 45
Water PA 45 5 45 5 23 5 45 5 4 5 CV 45 5 5 5 4 5 5 5 5 5
1 .5
45 45
Red B 125%
1.45
4 45
1 .5
45 5
0.95
5 5
POLAR
Orange GSN 150%
% Ch 1 .2 45 5
Sea water PA 45 5 5 5 34 5 5 5 45 5 CV 45 5 5 5 45 5 45 5 45 5
Perspiration, alkaline Ch 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 5 5 PA 4 5 45 5 34 5 45 5 4 5 CV 4 5 45 5 4 5 45 5 45 5
1 .5
45 5
Red B 125%
1.45
45 5
1 .5
45 45
0.95
5 5
48/63
Dry cleaning
POLAR
Orange GSN 150%
perchloreth. Ch
Dischargeability 5
partial %
Stripping
reduction oxidation
1 .2
4 45
40
Br Br
Br
1 .5
45 45
34
34
25
Red B 125%
1.45
45 45
45
45
65
1 .5
45 45
23
34
20
0.95
45 45
40
Stripping:
completely stripped
partially stripped
no effect
49/63
Fastness properties
Fastness properties were tested in accordance with SN-ISO 105 or international standards. Fastness ratings refer to the material illustrated with and sometimes without aftertreatment. Where multifiber strip is specified as adjacent fabric, such as in wash test C06 B2, adjacent fabric not mentioned in the table attained rating 5 for staining. Light fastness was tested at the given depths, wet fastness at 1/1 standard depth (SD) or as light navy (N/L) and deep black (B/Dk). Standard depth 1/1 was determined colorimetrically in accordance with ISO 105-A06 (edition 1995, Instrumental determination of standard depth 1/1). Results can differ, depending on fiber material, and for special requirements preliminary trials are advisable. Polyamide microfibers frequently have considerably lower fastness properties than conventional varieties. Key to fastness tables Ch CO CV PA PAN PES WO Bl Bn G R V Y N/L = = = = = = = = = = = = = = shade change staining of cotton staining of viscose staining of polyamide 66 textured tricot staining of acrylics staining of polyester staining of wool bluer browner greener redder more violet yellower standard depth light navy standard depth dark navy standard depth light black standard depth dark black YY = considerably yellower GG RR = = considerably greener considerably redder BB = considerably bluer Br De D W = = = = brighter deeper duller, flatter weaker
N/Dk = B/L =
B/Dk =
50/63
Staining of elastane EL PA = = Elastane Polyamide 0 1 2 3 4 Bl G R Y = = = = bluer greener redder yellower = = = = = no staining of EL poor dyeing of EL medium dyeing of EL tone-in-tone dyeing of EL heavy staining of EL (EL deeper than PA)
Artificial light/Philips TL 84
Shade was assessed under a MacBeth lamp and a TL 84 tubular fluorescent lamp and compared with that in daylight.
Dischargeability
Dischargeability was rated 1 to 5, rating 5 indicating discharged to white and rating 1 no effect. Method: thickening (Meyprogum NPS 8%, Meyhall) cold water Decrolin (BASF) LYOPRINT APN UVITEX NFW 1:2 550 g 275 g 150 g 5 g 20 g 1000 g - print - dry - fix (10 min air-excluded saturated steam) - finish off
Build up
Exhaustion > 95%, referred to a dyeing without auxiliaries on polyamide/elastane tricot (80/20), 1h at 98C/208F, liquor ratio 20:1, at the following shade depths: 5 4 3 2 = = = = very good good moderate poor (> 3/1 SD) (> 2/1 SD) ( 1/1 SD)
51/63
Migration
Test method: treat dyed and non-dyed material (1/1 SD or pale navy) at a 1:1 ratio in a blank bath without auxiliaries, 1h at 98C/208F, liquor ratio 20:1 5 4 3 2 1 = = = = = very good good moderate weak very weak (4050% dye migration) (3040% dye migration) (2030% dye migration) (1020% dye migration) (010% dye migration)
Barriness
This was tested on polyamide 66 test material without auxiliaries at shade depth 1/1 SD or pale navy. 5 45 4 34 3 23 2 = = = = = = = no barriness trace barry slightly barry noticeably barry considerably barry considerably to very barry highly barry
52/63
CH 3 : Auxiliaries
Ciba ALBEGAL SET leveling agent
Leveling agent for the Ciba LANASET dyeing system on polyamide Affinity for the fiber and the dye Promotes migration, shade build up, leveling power and penetration Breaks down dye aggregations and speeds up dye diffusion Enhances bath exhaustion Low foaming
Migration/leveling on polyamide
1% ALBEGAL SET
without
without
1% ALBEGAL SET
53/63
without product
2% CIBAFAST AO
54/63
without
3% CIBAFIX CL
without
3% CIBAFIX CL
55/63
no auxiliary
1.0%
2.0%
Water severe
Perspiration alkaline
no auxiliary
1.0%
2.0%
Water severe
Perspiration alkaline
56/63
PA without aftertreatment
57/63
Wetting/deaerating/defoaming
water
wetting agent
penetration accelerant
wetting agent
defoaming agent
penetration accelerant
58/63
59/63
CIBAFLUID C lubricant
Reduces creasing in piece dyeing Markedly reduces textile-to-textile friction Prevents cracks and abrasion marks No adverse effect on the stability of the dyebath No retarding effect
60/63
Coverage of barriness/leveling
Ciba LANASET dyes
1% UNIVADINE MC NEW
without leveler
2% UNIVADINE MC NEW
61/63
Ciba UNIVADINE PA NEW leveling agent for acid dyes / Ciba UNIVADINE NT NEW leveling agent for acid dyes
Highly efficient HT-stable leveling agents with reproducible results UNIVADINE PA NEW helps to achieve highest standards of levelness with balanced migration and coverage of barriness. Has no negative retarding and blocking effect UNIVADINE NT NEW promotes customary standards of levelness with very good coverage of barriness and migration
Covering of barriness/leveling
Ciba ERIONYL A dyes
without
2% UNIVADINE PA NEW
2% UNIVADINE NT NEW
62/63
CH 4 : Miscellaneous
63/63