Stitches

Definition

One unit of conformation resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread intralooping, interlooping or passing into or through the material.

Stitch Classes
100 Class Single-Thread Chain Stitch 200 Class Hand Stitch 300 Class Lock Stitch 400 Class Chain Stitch 500 Class Overedge Stitch 600 Class Flat Stitch

101 Class Stitch

Single Thread Chains stitches Using One Needle Thread and One Blind Looper

This class of stitch (100) is formed by the intralooping of a needle thread supply through or around the fabric. The loop of one needle thread is passed through the material from the needle side and intralooped on the other side. Single thread chain stitch is often used in temporary applications, as it is easy to remove. This is because each successive loop is dependent upon the previous loop for security.

Applications It is ideal for temporary basting. Attaching buttons or pressstuds. Blind stitching edges. Spot tacking (cuffs and socks etc) and for securing product labels to garments and socks.

Class 200 Hand Stitch

205 Class Stitch

Hand stitches are characterized by a single thread which is passed through the material as a single line of thread and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread

300 Class Lock Stitch

301 lockstitch

301 lockstitch

Lockstitch is the most widely used stitch formation. These stitches are extremely secure, as a break in one stitch will not cause the seam to unravel completely although it will compromise the overall seam performance

Lockstitch 301 is often referred to as double lockstitch'. It is formed by interlacing a needle thread with a bobbin thread underneath the material being sewn.

Advantages Neat appearance It is reversible (as the seam has the same appearance on both sides) It is strong (when the tension is correct and the load is equal on both threads) It is secure (the seam does not unravel or runback easily if the threads are cut or damaged). Disadvantages: The main disadvantage of using this stitch is the production stoppages required to change the bobbins.

Applications:

Lockstitch 301 is used on products where the same appearance is required on both sides of the seam as it is possible to match threads to different fabric ply colours. This is the only stitch to reliably sew a 90-degree angle when pivoting the fabric at the needle point. This is important for topstitching collars and cuffs etc.

400 Class Chain Stitch

Class 401: Chain stitch

Chain stitch 401 is often referred to as double lock chain stitch because each needle thread loop is interconnected with two loops of the same, single under thread. This stitch type is formed by inter looping the needle thread supply with a separate looper thread supply on the underside of the fabric.

Advantages

The large cones of thread that continuously supply the chain stitch machine make it perfect for continuous, long seaming applications. Another advantage is its strength and extensibility. It also reduces seam pucker as the stitch is set underneath the fabric rather then between the fabric layers.

Disadvantages
The seams can unravel or runback easily if the threads are cut or one of them is damaged. The seam can also runback from the finished end. To reduce this problem the seam should be over-sewn or bar-tacked

Applications

sew leg seams on jeans It also has good strength and increased extension and recovery properties, making it suitable for sewing side seams on men's and women's' wear

500 Class Overedge Stitch

Class 500: Over edge Chain stitch

This class of chain stitch is formed by interlooping the needle thread supply with one or more looper threads supplied on the side and underside of the fabric. This stitch type is often referred to as overlocking' and, as the name implies, it is formed when at least one or more threads are passed around the fabric edge. This type of chain stitch is the most widely used stitch formation for neatening continuous seaming applications.

Advantages

To prevent fraying when one or more threads. highly extensible and strong To seam grinning (the threads are exposed when the seam is pulled at right angles to the line of sewing) Bulky finish due to the complexity of the seam construction

Disadvantages

Application of 504 over edge chain stitch

knitted garment industry for seaming sew knitwear, lingerie, underwear, sportswear

Class 600: Covering chain stitch

Covering chain stitch utilizes between two and four needle threads but predominantly one looper thread and one cover thread. The cover thread lies on the top surface of the stitch line and is secured by the needle threads. The looper threads interloop with all of the needle threads on the underside of the stitch line.

Applications This stitch type is used to reduce seam impression on the wearer's skin or on outer garments. It is used in underwear, foundation wear and fashion sportswear.

Stitches and Seam defects

Improper Stitch Balance - 301 Lockstitch

DESCRIPTION: Where loops are seen either on the bottomside or topside of the seam. This is particularly evident with different colored needle and bobbin threads. Also, where the stitch is too loose.

SOLUTIONS
1)

2)

Use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics. Properly balance the stitch so that the needle and bobbin threads meet in the middle of the seam. Always start by checking the bobbin thread tension to make sure it is set correctly, so that the minimum thread tension is required to get a balanced stitch.

Improper Stitch Balance - 401 Chainstitch

DESCRIPTION: Where the loops on the bottom-side of the seam are inconsistent and do not appear uniform.

SOLUTIONS
1)

2)

Use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics; Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper thread is unraveled, the needle loop lays over half way to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam.

Improper Stitch Balance - 504 Overedge Stitch

DESCRIPTION: Where the needle loop is not pulled up to the underside of the seam and the "purl" is not on the edge of the seam.

SOLUTIONS
1)

2)

Use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics; Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper thread is unraveled, the needle loop lays over half way to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam.

Needle Cutting on Knits

DESCRIPTION: Where needle holes appear along the stitchline that will eventually turn into a "run". Generally caused by the needle damaging the fabric as it is penetrating the seam.

MINIMIZING NEEDLE CUTTING ON KNITS:

1.

2.

Make sure the proper thread size and needle type and size are being used for the fabric (See Reducing Needle Cutting.); Make sure the fabric has been properly stored to prevent drying out and has been finished properly;

Open Seam - Seam Failure Fabric

DESCRIPTION: Where the stitch line is still intact but the yarns in the fabric have ruptured.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES FABRIC:

1)

2)

3)

Reinforce stress points with Bartacks. Make sure the bartacks are the proper length and width for the application; Check to make sure the patterns have been designed for proper fit; Make sure the ideal seam construction is being used

Open Seam - Seam Failure Stitch

DESCRIPTION: Where the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a hole in the stitchline. Caused by 1) Improper stitch for application; 2) Inadequate thread strength for seam; 3) Not enough stitches per inch.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES

STITCH: 1) Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher performance thread designed to give greater seam performance. (See the Thread Selection Guide.); 2) Use the proper size thread for the application; 3) For knit fabrics, check for "Stitch Cracking". Stitch Cracking can be caused by any of the following: not enough stitches per inch; improper seam width or needle spacing for application; improper stitch balance; and improper thread selection.

Puckered Seams - Knits & Stretch Wovens

DESCRIPTION: Where the seam does not lay flat after stitching.

SOLUTIONS:
1)

2)

3)

If sewing machines are equipped with differential feed, set them properly for the fabric; Use minimum presser foot pressure during sewing; Observe operator for correct handling techniques. Too much stretching of the fabric by the sewing operator will cause this problem. (See Sewing Stretch Knits.)

Ragged/Inconsistent Edge Overedge or Safetystitch Seams

DESCRIPTION: Where the edge of the seam is either extremely "ragged" or "rolls" inside the stitch.

SOLUTIONS:
1)

2)

Make sure the sewing machine knives are sharpened and changed often; The knives should be adjusted properly in relationship to the "stitch tongue" on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width.

Excessive Seam Grin

DESCRIPTION: Where the stitch balance is not properly adjusted (stitch too loose) and you can see the seam opening up. To check for Seam Grin, apply normal seam stress across the seam and then remove the stress. If the seam remains opened, then the seam has too much "grin through".

SOLUTIONS:

To correct, readjust the sewing machine thread tensions so that the proper stitch balance is achieved. Too much tension will cause other problems including seam failures ("Stitch Cracking"), excessive thread breakage, and skipped stitches.

Seam Failure - Seam Slippage

DESCRIPTION: Where the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the edge. This often occurs on fabrics constructed of continuous filament yarns that are very smooth and have a slick surface. Also caused by loosely constructed fabrics.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES SEAM SLIPPAGE:

1)

2)
3)

Consider changing the seam construction to a French seam construction; Increase the seam width Optimize the stitches per inch;

Seam Quality

Seam quality is measured by all the the stitching quality measurements plus the measurements of other parameters seam size, seam slippage strength and the seam strength (Tensile and abrasive)

Seam size

Seam depth : Thickness and Thickness compressibility Seam length : Linear length per degree of curvature Seam width : Seam allowance, stitch seam width, full seam width, seam heading and seam let-out.