A TEXTBOOK OF CULINARY FUNDAMENTALS SECOND EDITION SY SARAH R. LABENSKY AIAN M. Hause Wit STEVEN LABENSKY PHOTOGRAPHS BY RICHARD EMBERY DRAWINGS BY STackY WiNTERS QUATTRONE B HALL, Upeae Swoous Rover, New jensey 07458Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Labensky, Sarah (On cooking: a textbonk of culinary fundamentals / Sarah R Iatbensy, Alan Mi. Hause; photographs hy Richard Embery; drawings by Stacey Winters Quattone. —2nd ed Bo cm, Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-13-812010-5 1. Cookery. 1 Haws, Alan Mt, Tide TAGS? 199) 615d 98-1965 ap Acgquisitions editor: Neil Marquardt Faltoriaproduction supervision: Barbara Martine Cappuccio Managing editor Mary Carnis Director of production and manufacturing: Bruce Johnson Manufaciuring buyer: Ed ODoughery Development editor: Judith Casillo Marketing manager: Frank Mortimes, Jt Faltorial assistant: Jean Auman Creative director Natianne Frasco Interior design: Laura C. lerardi Cover design: Ruta K. Fiorino Cover photograph: StockFood ising Additional drawings: Willan Ingrara Photo Credits: Portrait of Fannie Farmes—courtesy of The Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe College Portrait of Auguste Escoffier—courtesy of Musée de T'Amt Culinaire, Vlleneuve-Loubet (Village) France Portraits of Alexis Soyer and Antonin Caréme—courtesy of Barbara Wheaton Drawing of the Reform Club's Kitchen—courtesy of the Reform Club, London, England ©1999, 1995 by Prec Fale Ze Sinn & Suse / A Viacom Company Upper Saddle River, New Jersey O7458 All igh reserved. No part of his book may be reproduced, in any form or by any means, ‘without permission in writing from the publisher. Printed in the United States of America 098765432 ISBN 0-13-8b2640-5 Prentice-Hall International (UK) Limited, London Prentice-Hall of Australia Pry, Limited, Syeney Prentice-Hall Canada Inc., Toronto Prentice-Hall Hispanoamericana, SA., Mexico Prentice-Hall of India Private Limited, New Delbi Prentice-Hall of Japan, Inc., Tokyo Simon & Schuster Asia Pte. Lid., Singapore Editor Prentice-Hall do Brasil, Lda, Rio de JaneiroCon Parr 1 > Part 2 > OPRoresSIONALSM 1 [z ChaPTER 1 PROFESSIONALISM = 2 CHAPTER 2 Foon Sarery AND SANITATION 18 CuapTer 3 Numinon — 36 Cuaprer 4 Recipes AND MENUS 58 OPrevsration 75 CHAPTER 5 Toois AND Egurmenr 76 Curren 6 Kwire SKS 104 CHAPTER 7 Karcnen StapLES 118 Cuaprer 8 Dairy Propucts. 146feo. coNRNTS PART 165 Cuarrer 9 PRINCIPLES OF COOKING — 166 Giuerer 10 STOCKS AND Sauces Caprer 11 Sours 230 Chapter 12 PRINCIPLES OF Mea COOKERY 262 Cuaprer 13 Busr — 292 178 Cuaprer 14 Veal = (312 Cuaprer 15 LAMB 334 CuaPrer 16 PORK — 358 Chapter 17 Pouttry 376 Cuaprer 18 Game 430 CuaPreR 19 Fisit AND SHELLFISH = 454CHAPTER 20 Foes 534 6 | ChaprER 21 DEEP-FRYING 558 CHAPTER 22 )| Vecempies 572 | Chapner 23 e Ponssoes, GRAINS AND PASTA — 632. kee Parr 4 2 CONTENTS ev CuspreR 25 hy Froms 718 | CusPrER 26 SUNDWICHES — 760 &S CHAPTER 27 a CHARCUTERIE 786 CHAPTER 28 Hors D'ogvvRE AND GANAPES 828 Parr 5 22> Grok MANGER 679° Cuaprer 24 SALADS AND SalAD DRESSINGS 680 Bari 861 CHAPTER 29 PRINCIPLES OF THE BAKESHOP 862Parr 6 > Cuaprer 30 Pp ‘RESENTATION ~— 1081 QUICK BREADS ~— 886 Cruprer 35 Plane PRESENTATION 1082 Caprer 31 Yeas BREADS 906 es q Re Curren 36 Burrer CHAPTER 32 PRESENTATION — 1096 Pigs, PAsTRIgS f AND COOKIES 940 APPENDIX I Proressionss ORGANMAMIONS 1113 CHAPTER 33 CAKES AND AppENDIX II FROSIINGS 994 AC esSUREMENT AND CONVERSION CHARTS 1115 PrBLuoGRAPHY AND Cuapter 34 RECOMMENDED READING 1117 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, Zhai Frozen DEsseeis Giossinr 1121 AND SAUCES 1038 Srv 1137REFACE leaming to cook is much more than simply leaming to follow a recipe. Con- sequently, this is not a cookhook or a collection of recipes. It isa carefully de- signed text intended to teach you the fundamentals of the culinary arts and to prepare you for a rewarding career in the food service industry Many chapters have extensive illustrated sections identifying foods and equipment. Throughout the book, we emphasize culinary principles, not recipes (although we include more than 750 of them). Whenever possible, we focus on the general procedure highlighting fundamental principles and skills whether it be for preparing a yeast bread or grilling a piece of fish, We discuss both the how and why of cooking. Only then are specific applications andl sample recipes given. Numerous hotel and restaurant chefs throughout the country have con- tibuted recipes t0 this book, usually accompanied by photographs of the dishes as prepared in their kitchens. These recipes and illustrations allow you to explore different techniques and presentation styles In order to provide you with a sense of the rich traditions of cookery, in- formative sidebars on food history, chef biographies and other topics are scat- tered throughout the book. Also included are several short essays written by prominent culinarians on topics ranging from tempering chocolate to tasting spicy foods, ‘We wish you much success in your culinary career and hope that this text will continue to inform and inspire you long after graduation A Note ON RECIPES > Recipes are important and useful as @ means of standardizing food preparation and recording information. We include recipes that are primarily designed to reinforce and explain techniques and procedures presented in the text. Many recipe yields are intentionally low in order to be less intimidating to beginning cooks and more useful in small schools and kitchens. All ingredients are listed in both US. and metric measurements, The metric equivalents are rounded off to even, easily measured amounts, So, you should. consider these ingredient lists as separate recipes or formulas; do not measure some ingredients according to the metric amounts anc! other ingredients ac- ‘cording to the US. amount or the proportions will not be accurate and the in- tended result will not be achieved. ‘Throughout this book, unless otherwise noted: + mirepote refers to a preparation of 2 parts onion, 1 part celery and 1 part carrot by weight + pepper refers to ground black pepper, preferably freshly ground vitvit PREECE + butter refers 10 whole, unsalted butter + milk refers to whole or reduced fat (not nonfat) milk, and + Tr'means “to taste” A nutritional analysis is provided with each recipe. This information is pro: vided as a reference only, There is a 20% margin of error, due primarily 10 choices for specific ingredients and variations in the size of fruits and vegeta- bles, When a recipe offers a choice of ingredients, the first-mentioned ingred- ent was the one used in the calculations. Ingredients listed as “to taste" CTT) and “as needed” were generally omitted from the analysis. In addition, olive oil and 3% whole milk were used throughout for “vegetable oil” and “milk,” respectively. When given a choice of serving or weight, the first mentioned was used. Recipes marked with the pyramid symbol are particularly low in calories, fat, saturated fat and/or sodium; some may also be a good source of vitamins, protein, fiber or calcium. These dishes are not necessarily dietetic, however Rather, they should be consumed as part of a well-balanced diet Detailed procedures for standard techniques are presented in the text and ‘generally are not repeated in each recipe (for example, “deglaze the pan” ot “monter au beurre”). No matter how detailed the written recipe, however, we must assume that you have certain knowledge, skills and judgment. ‘atiations appear at the end of selected recipes. These give you the oppor- tunity t0 see how one set of techniques or procedures can be used to prepare different dishes with only minor modifications. ‘You should also rely upon the knowledge and skills of your instructor for guidance, Although some skills and an understanding of theory can be ac- uired through reading and study, no book can substitute for repeated, hands- (on preparation and observation ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This book would not have been possible without the assistance and support of many people. We are particularly indebted to Steve Labenksy for his count- Jess hours with a. sharp pencil, his comments and criticism and his constant suppor. Special thanks to our photographer, Richard Embery, for his talent, professionalism anc! commitment to quality and to Sharon Salomon, MS, RD, for preparation of the Nutrition chapter. The nutrtional analysis for this edition ‘was prepared by William Miller, whose thoroughness is appreciated. Thanks also to Kate Nelson, Dominic O'Neil, Leland Atkinson, Erich Wagner, James Dual and Richard Martinez, and to Stacey Winters Quattrone and William E. Ingram for their artistry. We are also grateful to the many chefs, restaurateurs, writers and culinary professionals who provided recipes and essays for this ook Finally, Alanis especially grateful to his wife Chantal Hause for her support, helpfulness, love anc! patience. The authors wish to thank the following companies for their generous do- fons of equipment and supplies: J.A. Henckels Zwillingswerk, Inc, All-Clad Metalcrafters, inc, and Parrish’s Cake Decorating Supplies, Inc. We also wish to thank Shamrock Foods Company, East Coast Seafood of Phoenix. Inc Kitchenaid Home Appliances, Taylor Environmental Instruments, Hobart Cor: poration, Jeff and Sue Reising of Arizona Ostrich Fillet, Williams-Sonoma, a chitect Michael Apostolos, and Randy Dougherty of ISF InternationalFinally, we wish to thank everyone involved in this project at Prentice Hall, including Neil Marquarct, Acquisitions Editor, Barbara Cappuccio, Proctuction Fxltor, Judith Casillo, Development Editor, Marianne Frasco, Creative Director, Mary Carns, Managing Editor, Ed O'Dougherty, Production Coordinator; Laura lerard, Designer; Ruta K. Fiorino, Director of Advertsing, and Frank Mortimer, Ji Marketing Manger. We also remain indebted to Robin Baliszewski, Acquis tions Editor of the first edition, for her support and friendship, The authors would also like to acknowledge the following reviewers for their comments and assistance. First Edition: Richard W. Alford, University of Akron; Earl Amowood, Bucks County Community College; Mike Antip, Culinary School of Kendall College, Ielind Atkinson; James Belch, Pennsylvania Institute of Culinary A Berrent, Pennsylvania Institute of Culinary Ars; Thom Boehm, Pennsylvania Insitute of Culinary Arts; James Bressi, New England Culinary Institute; John D. Bait, San Joaquin Delta College; Walter Bronowitz CFE, Fdmonds Com ‘munity College; Mark Clink, Pennsyivania Institute of Culinary Ams; George Conte, New York Restaurant School; Noel Cullen, CMC, Boston University Jeanne Curtis, Newbury College; William Day, Johnson & Wales University Douglas CEC: CCE, Everett Community College; Rolf Epprecht, Swiss Hospital: ity Institute; John Fitzpatrick; Maureen Garfolo, Pennsylvania Institute of Culi nary Arts; George Geary; Jeff Graves, University of Houston/Gonrad N. Hilton Hotel School Bill Greathouse, Ivy Technical College; Kimberly Harris; Brenda Harsh, Pennsylvania Institute of Culinary Ans; Elizabeth S. Leite, Scottsdale Culinary Institute; Robert Lombardi, Spokane Community College; Deborah Lynch, Middlesex County College; Syivia Marple MS., RD., University of New Hampshire; Don McNicol, Madison tea Technical College; James Muth, Grand Rapids Community College; John Noe, Joliet Junior College; Philip H. Nudle CHC, Middlesex County College; Michael Piccinino, Shasta College; Marcia fango; Emst Reck; Christine Stamm, Johnson & Wales University; Clifford Steiner, New York Restaurant School; Cicely Stetson; Peter G, Tobin, Spokane Community College; and Susan Ward, Academy of Culinary Arts/Atlantic Com munity College Second Edition: George Anbinder, Culinary Ants Department, Newbury Col lege; Neil Becker, New York Restaurant School; Deane Cobber, Columbus State Community College; Linda Cullen, Greater New Bedford Vocational and Tech: nical High School; Albert D'Addario, Newbury College; Janet De Lucia, Cuy: hoga Community College; Fred T. Faria, The Hospitality College, Johnson & Wales University, Deborah Foster, Ball State University; Martin Goldman, Mer- cer County Community College: Joe Harrold, Florida Community College at Jacksonville; Connie Holt, Widener University; William Jarvie, The Hospitality College, Johnson & Wales University; David Kamen, New York Restaurant Schook Lisa R. Kennon, Hotel & Restaurant Management, University of North ‘Texas; Geonge Krieger, Baltimore International Culinary College; Lew Lichtman, New York Restaurant School Deborah K. Lynch, Middlesex County College; John Martin, ATI Career Institute; Fedele Panzarino, New York City Technic College; David F. Schneider, Macomb Community College; Greg Tompkins, California Culinary Academy; Michael Varnava, New York Restautant Schoo Michael Vignapiano, New York Restaurant School. Prerice ix7) Parr One ROFESSIONALISM es must be able to do more than properly prepare and present foods. They must understand traditions and factors influencing change. They are responsible for making sure that the food served is wholesome and at and that they and those around them work in a safe and efficient manner. Further, chefs must make sure that the foods they serve dre nutritious, or at least they should offer their customers sufficient selections so that the customers can construct a nutritious meal. And, finally, chefs are responsible for writing menus and producing food in a consistent and cost-effective manner. Part [ opens with a chapter on professionalism. It traces the history of chefs and restaurants, discusses the modem food service operation and factors influencing i development and explains what attributes a student chef must have to become a professional chef. ‘The following chapters address food safety and sanitation, nutrition and menus and recipes.ae After studying this chapter, you will be able to: 2. discuss the development of the moder food service industry 2. name key historical figures re- sponsible for developing food service professionalism explain the organization of clas- sic and modern kitchen brigades ‘-®. appreciate the role of the pro- fessional chef in modern food service operations understand the attributes a stu- dent chef needs to become a professional chef Cooking —() te tne of ene rom a ‘sours a fod: his ener ales ie ol? molecular scr, caging it texture, aco, ‘aroma and pearance (2) be preparation of fied for consumption CCookery—e art, practie or work cooking, Professional cooking—u gsm of cooing bad ona bowls of and appreciation for ‘ngradonts and prcedares. Cookery is become an art, a noble f science; cooks are gentlemen. —Robert Burton, British author, 1621 © A ubstitute “professionals” for “gentlemen, * and Burton's words are as true today as they were almost four hundred years ago. Like the fine arts, great cookery requires taste and creativity, an appreci- ation of beauty and a mastery of technique. Like the sciences, suc- cessful cookery demands knowledge and an understanding of basic principles. And like the “gentlemen” of Burton's days, today’s profes sional chefs must exercise sound judgment and be committed to achieving excellence in their endeavors This books helps implement Burton's philosophy. It describes foods and cooking equipment, explains culinary principles and cooking techniques and provides recipes using these principles and tech- niques, This book cannot, however, provide taste, creativity, commit- ment and judgment, For these, we rely on you. CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS Cooks have produced food in quantity for as long as people have eaten to- gether. For millennia, chefs have catered to the often elaborate dining needs of the wealthy and powerful, whether they be Asian, Native American, Furo- pean or African, And for centuries, vendors in China, Furope and elsewhere have sold to the public foods that they prepared themselves or bought from others But the history of the professional chef is of relatively recent origin, Its cast is mosily French, and itis intertwined with the history of restaurants, For only with the development of restaurants during the late 18h and early 19th cen- turies were chefs expected to produce, efficiently and economically, different dishes at different times for diferent diners The 18th Century—Boulanger’s Restaurant ‘The word restaurant is derived from the French word restaurer (to restore). Since the 16th century, the word restorative had been used to describe rich and highly flavored soups or stews capable of restoring lost strength. Restora- tives, like all other cooked foods offered and purchased outside the home, were made by guild members. Each guild had a monopoly on preparing cer tain food items. For example, during the reign of Henri IV of France (1553-1610), there were separate guilds for rotisseurs (who cooked da grosse iande, the main cuts of meat), patisier (oho cooked poultry, pies and tats), tamisiers (who baked breads), vinaigriers (who made sauces and some stews, including some restoratives), sraieurs (who made ragouts) and. porte-chapes (caterers who organized feasts and celebrations). ‘The French eaim that the first modern. restaurant opened one day in 1765 when a Parisian tavernkeeper, a Monsieur Boulanger, hung a sign advertising the sale of his special restorative, a dish of sheep feet in white sauce, His es-tublishment closed shortly thereafter as the result of a lawsuit brought by a ‘uild whose members claimed that Boulanger was infringing on their exclusive right to sell prepared dishes. Boulanger trumphed in court and later reopened. Boulanger’ establishment differed from the inns and tavems that had ex- ised throughout Europe for centuries. These inns and taverns served foods prepared (usually off premises) by the appropriate guild. The food—of which there was litle choico—was offered by the keeper as incidental 0 the estab- lishment’s primary function: providing sleeping accommodations or drink. Cus- tomers were served family style and ate at communal tables. Boulanger’s con- tribution to the food service industry was to serve a variety of foods prepared (on premises to customers whose primary interest was dining. Several other restaurants opened in Paris during the succeeding decades, in- cluding the Grande Taverne de Londres in 1782, Its owner, Antoine Beauvil- liers (1754-1817), was the former steward to the Comte de Provence, later King Louis XVIII of France, He advanced the development of the modern restaurant by offering his wealthy patrons a menu listing available dishes dus- ing fixed hours. Beauvillers’s impeccably trained wait staff served patrons at sonal, individual tables in an elegant setting, ‘The French Revolution (1789-1799) had a significant effect on the budding restaurant industry. Along with the aristocracy, guilds and their monopolies ‘were generally abolished. The revolution also allowed the public access to the skills and creativity of the well-trained, sophisticated chefs who had worked in the aristocracy’ private kitchens. Although many of the aristocracy's chefs ei- ther left the country or lost their jobs (and, some, their heads), a few opened restaurants catering to the growing urbanized middle class. The Early 19th Century— Caréme and Grande Cuisine As the 19th century progressed, more restaurants opened, serving a greater se- lection of items and catering to a wider clientele. By midcentury, several large rand restaurants in Paris were serving elaborate meals, decidedly reminiscent Of the grande cuisine (also known as baute cuisine) of the aristocracy. Grande cuisine, which arguably reached its peak of perfection in the hands of Antonin Caréme, was characterized by meals consisting of dozens of courses of elaborately and intricately prepared, presented, gamished and siuced foods. Other restaurateurs blended the techniques and styles of grande ‘euisine with the simpler foods and tastes of the middle class (cuisine bour- ‘geviste) to create a new cuisine simpler than grande cuisine but more than mere home cooking The Late 19th Century— Excoffier and Cuisine Classique Following the lead set by the French in both culinary style and the restaurant business, restaurants opened in the United Sates and throughout Europe dur- ing the 19th century, Charles Ranhofer (1836-1899) was the first internationally renowned chef of an American restaurant, Delmonico’s in New York City. In 1993, Ranhofer published his “franco-american” encyclopedia of cooking, The Epicurean, containing more than 3500 recipes. PROFESNONALISH 5 ‘Grande cuisine —he ric irate ad eabo ute cn of he 18t- and 1b comary Fred viecray ane uppercase. based on be raionaltentifaton, development adaption (of rie culinary princes By enplaszng te Twa why of ening, grande cs was be {fist to dng tl from regional cuines tic ond emphasize the tration of cong Cassie cuisine lle 156 ard ely 200- Cantar refineren an sinpiiation of Protch grade cls, Clase (orcas) cus rls on tbe rough exploration of culinary princes ‘and tecbnsques, aed emphasizes be refined reparation and presentation of super gre dents