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How to Solder
by noahw on January 10, 2007 Table of Contents How to Solder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intro: How to Solder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 1: Tools and materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 2: Getting ready . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 3: Soldering wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 4: Soldering components onto a circuit board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 5: Cutting the leads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 6: Surface mounting components onto a circuit board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 2 4 5 7 8 9
Step 7: Soldering with a lighter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Step 8: Desoldering, fixing mistakes and extrapolation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
and what you leave alone. 4. Soldering iron holder and cleaning sponge It's nice to have a safe place to put the soldering iron down in between soldering. A soldering stand safely holds the iron and gives you a place to clean the tip. Some soldering irons come with their own holders. If yours doesn't have one, you can buy one or make one. jaime9999 has a Homemade nearly-free Soldering Iron Stand that is pretty much identical to what you can buy. The stand isn't a necessity for learning how to solder, but it does help. 5. Tools to work with wires I have a go-to stock of tools that I round up when working with wires or electrical components. They consist of wire cutters, a wire stripper, needle nose pliers, and an automatic wire stripper (courtesy of the Squid Labs soldering station.) The automatic wire stripper is really convenient if you're going to be stripping lots and lots of wire, but by no means necessary. I have stripped lots and lots of speaker wire using my teeth (not the best idea, I know I know.) 6. Clips to hold your work Often called "third hands" or "helping hands," these little guys help a whole lot when soldering. You have to hold the soldering iron with one hand and the solder wire in the other, so it really helps to have something else to hold the components you're actually trying to join. You can use alligator clips, clamps, or even some tape to hold things in place if you need to. The third hand is generally a good investment if your going to be soldering regularly, and there are plenty of Instructables with with ideas to modify them if you do happen to pick one up. Check out: Make a 3 degree of freedom 'hand' to help with soldering / gluing work and make your 'helping hands' 100x more useful for soldering / gluing small parts by leevonk to start. If you would like to make a set of helping hands of your own there are already a number of good Instructables on that too. Quick helper for surface-mount soldering by http://www.instructables.com/member/bikeNomad/bikeNomad, QuickMods - Soldering Arms by Aeshir and Build a Pair of Helping Hands by john otto should get things started. 7. Exhaust fan I do most of my soldering at a soldering station that is equipped with an exhaust fan. It's really not such a good idea to breathe in solder fumes, and soldering does produce fumes. Any kind of ventilation/fan you can rig up will help. Vent the fumes outside or use an indoor fan with a filter if you can't vent them outdoors. Here is a Window-mounted solder fume extractor (not just for RVs!) posted by bikeNomad. Also check out Dr. Solomon's low tech, but functional Solder Fume Extractor if you're looking to build something that you can place right on your table. If you're just doing a quick soldering job, the fumes wont kill you by any means. I have certainly done my fair share of soldering without a vent, but anyone doing repetitive soldering should definitely pick one up or make one. 8. Safety goggles I hadn't ever used goggles before while soldering, but while doing research for this post I saw it mentioned elsewhere and agree that its a good idea. Little molten bits of solder tend to fly out of the soldering joint when you're feeding in the solder, and if it landed in your eye it wouldn't feel too good. 9. The materials that you want to join together I was just messing around, and mostly soldering for the purpose of this Instructable so my materials didn't necessarily make anything. You can solder wire, electrical components like resistors and capacitors, circuits, breadboards, electrodes, small pieces of metal and whatever else you can think of. Don't know if it can be soldered? Give it a try - you won't blow anything up. Once I have got my tools and materials rounded up, I like to pretend that I am a pilot and begin my pre-flight/solder checklist.
Image Notes 1. Tools for working with wire - needle nose pliers, wire cutters, and wire stripper. 2. Weller variable temperature soldering iron - the Cadillac of the soldering world. 3. Automatic wire strippers. Fantastically helpful, but not necessary by any means. 4. small clamps to hold materials while soldering 5. Helping hand tool 6. Materials to solder 7. Cheapo gun style soldering iron I bought from Radioshack. Its better as a prop for a futuristic space gun than as a soldering iron. I don't recommend these if your going to go out and buy yourself one. 8. Medium priced gun style soldering iron. This iron doesn't have variable temperature control, but it does have a low 100 watt setting and high 140 watt setting. This is my soldering iron of choice for soldering heavy gauge wire.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
Image Notes 1. blunt conical pointed tip 2. screwdriver or chisel style tip 3. conical pointed tip
Image Notes 1. These tools are really helpful while soldering but are by no means a necessity. They are part of the group of tools I raided from the squid labs soldering station.
Image Notes 1. Moisten the sponge to clean the tip of your soldering iron. If you don't have a
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
Image Notes 1. The soldering tip gets hot! Don't touch it!
cleaning station like this one you can use any old sponge.
Image Notes 1. Mitch likes to coil his solder with a short lead to hold it steady while he solders.
Image Notes 1. Prep your wires so that they are tightly twisted together and ready to be soldered.
Image Notes 1. Utilize the third hand holding tool if you have one. This leaves your hands free to operate the soldering gun and feed the solder wire into your joint.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
Image Notes 1. Introduce the solder to the joint where the wires are twisted together - not to the tip of the iron. 2. solder wire 3. soldering iron tip
Image Notes 1. Here Mitch is soldering a wiring harness for a car stereo - just one of the infinite uses for soldering.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
Image Notes 1. A nicely soldered connection. Not too much solder so there are globs of it, but plenty to cover the entire connection.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
Image Notes 1. The solder creates a small "hill" but is still contained on the metal pad. You don't want it to extend beyond this size, otherwise you run the risk of it touching the pad next to it and causing a short.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
Image Notes 1. Cut the excess lead as close as you can to the circuit board - don't worry about cutting off a little solder off either, if you did a good job of getting the solder to penetrate the joint there will plenty more solder in the hole to hold it the component in place.
Image Notes 1. No component here yet, just tinning the contact to get it ready to attach the component.
Image Notes 1. Mitch re-heats the glob of solder and lowers the component into place.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
Image Notes 1. The other side of the component then gets soldered into place.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
Related Instructables
How to Solder Videos: Why is Proper soldering Soldering Iron difficult cleaning & sometimes? by maintenance by CuriousInventor.com exponent
Comments
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MROHM says:
Feb 23, 2011. 5:16 AM REPLY I use Soldering Paste and a Small Wire Brush to keep my Soldering Iron Clean(along with Tinning it with Solder. From Experience Cleaning the tip with a sponge just causes the tip to oxidize. Also the cheap Soldering Irons tend to Oxidize more than the more expensive types(WELLER) I also own a WELLER WLC- 100 and keep it at half power when not using it at the moment,at half power,,,,,this 1) Saves Tip life and 2) Prevents or reduces oxidation on my Soldering Tip. As for the Wire Brush I use it in case in a worst case scenario,,, Tinning and Soldering paste doesn't help!! Once again OXIDATION usually occurs with my cheaper irons, I try to stick to my WELLER for best results!!!
TeamDuck says:
Thank you so much, you helped me make my mum a sun jar in time for her birthday :)
CyborgGold says:
Sep 12, 2010. 2:18 AM REPLY I did a how to solder a pcb search on google which brought me here. I am tryig to solder a few points on an xbox 360 controller, but the soldering points are not bare, there is nothing but a hole where I need to connect some wire. Would you mind letting me know what I can do to get the wire to stick? Thanks!
E_MAN says:
Dec 8, 2010. 7:14 AM REPLY Why do you need to solder to the inside of a xbox 360 controller??? There is a solder mask that will keep solder off of everything but where the connections a supposed to be. (that is why the board is colored and not yellowish) Follow the trace that connects to this hole. It has to connect to another component somewhere. Just use that connection. Hope this helped -Eric
CyborgGold says:
Dec 8, 2010. 9:37 AM REPLY I am trying to add LEDs to the controller to light up the buttons when they are pressed. The buttons are part of the PCB, not external components. I need to wire the LEDs away from the button so the buttons can be pressed without coming down on the wires. I tried scratching off the solder mask gently with a knife, and soldering to the trace, but the wire won't hold strongly to the trace. http://tinyurl.com/27c77zm
E_MAN says:
Dec 13, 2010. 4:34 PM REPLY Soldering to the traces usually does not work very well. I would follow the trace that connects to the buttons. It has to connect to another component somewhere. Just solder to that connection there.
sinisaja says:
Nov 24, 2010. 8:22 PM REPLY I have 50W Weller WESD51 soldering iron and it works great. It has very accurate electronic temperature control. Temperature of iron can be adjusted with the front panel temperature control knob - you can precisely control the temperature of soldering iron to within 9 degrees Fahrenheit. Aug 1, 2010. 10:43 AM REPLY I don't have a heat gun, so I always use a Bic lighter. I have used it dozens of times and it works perfectly. You just hold it under the heat shrink tubing for a couple of seconds, and it shrinks around the wire nicely. For solder, the thin stuff works best for electrical work. I bought some Kester brand 60-40 alloy 0.31 inch - 0.79 cm diameter. Also for electrical work you are not supposed to use acid core solder, or it will erode your components. You should use rosin core only. The ones that look like a gun are not for electrical components, they will run electric current through your components, which can fry them. You should use the ones that you hold like a pencil. The gun style would be Good for wires though I taught myself, but I was already experienced at sweating copper pipe, so I already knew to heat the piece instead of the solder. My first project was the coax connector on my TV, which had broken off. I found my high quality solder at a hobby shop. I got my soldering iron at Radio Shack. I didn't buy the cheapest one they had, nor did I get the most expensive one. It has lasted me since 2000. But I don't use it every day either, It's a 40 watt..I want to get the one with a separate transformer, with an adjustment knob. Microcenter has some good deals on them, if you live near one. May 26, 2009. 5:30 PM REPLY I am having a very hard time soldering together some mini camera charging circuits for a coilgun. I have to solder several wires that are each about a quarter cm long onto a board that is maybe a little over a square cm.
actionjksn says:
kjjohn says:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
mrwolfe says:
Jul 26, 2010. 11:54 PM REPLY You'll need a magnifying glass, tweezers, a very fine soldering iron tip and some fine solder wire (0.5mm should do it). Oh, and steady hands!
VADER1111 says:
ya me to can any one help
mrwolfe says:
Great instructable!
I generaly don't tin the contact because that tends to make it more difficult to get the component to sit flat on the board. Generally, a commercially produced board will have enough tinning on it to make the component stay in place until you can finish the joints. Step 1 is to apply a small amount of rosin flux to the pads that the component is going to be soldered to (I have a small bottle with a brush in it) Step 2 is to place the component using tweezers (As per the second pic), and WHILE HOLDING IT, touch one of the pads with the iron. If you have a clean, recently tinned soldering iron tip, the small amount of solder on the tip will wick into the joint and hold the component in place (once it cools) Step 3 is to check that the component has stuck, then solder the OTHER pads before finishing the first one off. Try not to get too much solder on the joint. You're after nice smooth meniscuses rather than big blobs. If you're solering onto a board that you have made yourself, tin the pads then remove excess solder with solder wick before doing step 1.
Ugifer says:
Jul 16, 2010. 8:23 AM REPLY You can also solder with the "iron" rather than the flame - I once needed to fix a radio with a dry joint but had no soldering tools at all to hand. Heat a skewer in the cooker gas flame and it has enough heat capacity to reheat a joint before it cools. Hold it with a cloth! Jul 10, 2010. 6:27 AM REPLY im going to solder a fan to my modem but im wondering if i solder it to my modem would i short circuit it and render the modem useless or wreck the flow of electricity through it?? (((i know absaloutely nothing about soldering))) Jul 6, 2010. 4:55 PM REPLY One time I was soldering and i knocked my soldering iron out of it's stand and then i grabbed it by the hot rod. That was the only time I've had good reaction timing .FAIL.
grk2meet says:
kingmii says:
Percivilis says:
Jun 26, 2010. 7:28 PM REPLY Hi! First of all, thanks for the very clear, very instructive 'ible! I'm just starting to solder components onto circuit boards, and it's been very helpful. I have a quick question, though, regarding materials. I'm soldering components onto a PCB, and I'm currently using a 15-30W iron from RadioShack and 0.022" lead-free solder from the same. I'm trying to use the "Through Hole Component" method from Step 4, but I'm running into some trouble. I'll turn the iron to the 30W setting and hold it so it's touching the copper contact on the board and the component I'm trying to solder in, and then hold the solder up... But most of the time, nothing happens, even after a few minutes of me sitting there, holding everything very still. I'm heating it up enough for the copper on both the wire and the board to oxidize and turn black, and then some, but my solder's just not melting. This isn't always the case... It's worked before when soldering in a voltage regulator and some copper wire (although each of them took about a minute of direct contact to melt the solder), but I've just spent the last 30 minutes trying to solder in the other end of the wire, to no avail. Do you have any idea what could be causing this? Is my iron not powerful enough, perhaps, or is there probably something wrong with my technique? Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
InLiquidWonder says:
Feb 5, 2010. 6:39 PM REPLY I can't find a good suggestion (thanks for nothing, Google) for what table surface is best for soldering projects. I don't plan on dripping all that much solder, but I want to know what common household surfaces are safest for my projects without incurring damage to the table surface. I'm open to picking up a mat as well, if anyone recommends one.
pfred2 says:
I use a quarter inch thick stainless steel plate. It seems to hold up OK.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
static says:
Mar 22, 2010. 8:07 PM REPLY I'm thinking for most of us protecting our bench tops from soldering work isn't that critical. Any slight damage is certainly going to add the character of the shop. :) But seriousily the Formica surface of my old desk hasn't been hurt by hot solder that has ended up on it, though it has been subjected to large blobs of hot metal for any apprecible amount of time
sockless says:
Use a piece of cardboard, an old plank or a newspaper.
Azayles says:
Mar 21, 2010. 12:36 PM REPLY Use a large glass or marble chopping board/work surface for the kitchen. The ones used for preparing pastry are idea as they tend to be bigger. Glass ones will be toughened, so you don't have to worry about it breaking from heat or minor impacts.
nemaster203 says:
Jun 29, 2010. 10:47 PM REPLY Solder almost always has lead in it, are you suggesting eating lead is healthy for you? I'd just use a piece of plywood big enough for what I needed to solder on top of any surface.
Azayles says:
Jun 30, 2010. 8:07 AM REPLY I'm nut suggesting you solder in the kitchen, or use a kitchen work surface than you're then going to use to prepare food on. I'm suggesting buy a new chopping board, use it for soldering only in the workshop and not for food use. That should be common sense, which is why I didn't state it in my previous comment.
vanmankline says:
Mar 21, 2010. 11:30 AM REPLY I use some scrap steel plate that came from the door of an old oven. An old kitchen trivet or sheet pan may work well too.
zack247 says:
Mar 21, 2010. 10:33 AM REPLY may i reccomend a glossy ceramic tile? they stand up to the heat well, and the glossy coat doesn't melt and the solder comes right off. (if you drip some)
steveastrouk says:
Mar 21, 2010. 7:21 AM REPLY "You can even use a piece of sand paper, a file, or a powered grinding wheel to shape the tip of your soldering iron into whatever works best for you." Are you getting paid by the tip makers ??? Unless you deliberately want to ruin a tip NEVER ""use a piece of sand paper, a file, or a powered grinding wheel ." to do anything to your tip. The iron plating on the tip stops it dissolving in contact with solder. Once that plate is broken, the tip rots almost in front of your eyes.
pfred2 says:
Jun 16, 2010. 1:31 PM REPLY It does work but then you need to retin the tip. Not always the easiest of tasks. All of my soldering irons have solid copper tips. I retin cleaned up tips with a molten pot of solder. Then they always work better than new! Mar 21, 2010. 10:28 PM REPLY It would depend on the type of soldering iron, I have made the mistake of sanding the wrong tip (It was a good soldering station from school actually, opps!), but some tips are copper or something and it works.
sockless says:
steveastrouk says:
All tips are made of copper, then plated, since iron isn't dissolved by tin/lead eutectics.
pfred2 says:
Jun 16, 2010. 1:42 PM REPLY Original soldering coppers weren't. If I keep my tips properly tinned I have no problems either. I have salvaged a few irons that needed work to bring the tips into a useful condition. I've brought those to bare copper then just retinned them and they're all fine today. Then again I know how to tin a soldering iron, and apparently not everyone does.
zack247 says:
Mar 21, 2010. 10:17 AM REPLY my friend used a dremel to"clean" his soldering tip even after i told him it wouldn't work right afterwards. after the tip stopped working, he went to the source and spent $15 on a tip that doesn't fit, and he lost the receipt!
noahw says:
This sentence has been removed. Thanks for the info.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
vanmankline says:
Using a product like http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7207 also re-tins the tip.
steveastrouk says:
You're welcome. I get a bit fed up of seeing this posted on "soldering" how-to's :-( Steve
kevinhannan says:
Mar 21, 2010. 8:07 AM REPLY I started soldering when I was 12 - and learned the hard way - don't get your face too close to your soldering work - a splodge of flux spat out and hit the tip of my nose (no, my nose is normal-sized!) and 30-odd years later I still have a circle-spot scar. Actually, for the first few years, it used to spontaneously burst and pour blood! Ah, well!
pfred2 says:
Don't ever try to weld! I popped a spark into my ear and had to put it out with my finger.
static says:
Mar 22, 2010. 9:45 PM REPLY Ouch! Better your nose than an eyeball. I have worn prescription eyeglass since the 4th grade, they saved my eyes on many occasion.
zombiehunter96 says:
Mar 31, 2010. 7:18 PM REPLY Yeah my glasses saved my eyes many times. The best (or worst depending how you look at it) was when I was attempting to cut a coathanger (metal kind) with tin snips, long story short... my hand slipped and the sharp end of the fresh cut coat hanger put a deep cut in my glasses. If not for them I would have most likely lost an eye : /
iturnem says:
Apr 12, 2010. 11:27 AM REPLY Just wanted to give a tip for applying flux that i find works better and has less waste than using a qtip or something similar. I take a piece of stranded wire and strip about 1/4" back, then fray the strands out like a brush and use that to spread solder on component, pcb etc... Much less is wasted because it doesnt soak up excess amounts of flux when dipped in.
pfred2 says:
Jun 16, 2010. 1:08 PM REPLY More often than not I'll just grab a small slotted screwdriver to apply flux with. Sometimes I'll hit a dry connection with some fresh fluxed solder to get it flowing again too. Depending on my mood, and the job I have to do. Preheating what you want to flux can help flow a thin layer as well. The less flux you use the better. Do you use liquid flux? I use rosin paste for electronics myself. The liquid brush on stuff is for sweating pipes!
ATTABOYSLIM says:
Feb 6, 2010. 12:15 AM REPLY I am very glad to see this post and appreciate the fact that you took us, the "Rookies" into consideration while explaining. Here is where I'd like to see a better example; I'm getting better at reading Motherboards (computers), for example but have no clue how to follow the path. I mean, at times, it looks like one squiggly line and every single spot is connected to it and that is baffling to me. I guess I look at it in a way that says, "This and these go to the thing over there and combined, they make that thing on the other side work." The reason it works with everything connected to the same flow path is beyond my knowledge. So, when you talked about soldering onto a motherboard using the 'Thru Hole" (i guess you called it) method, my eyes started glazing over. Obviously that wouldn't be a problem and the advice perfect if my theory of "All connected to one" were accurate but I somehow doubt that to be the case. So, maybe you could show an application that repaired a broken circuit that could be re-soldered. I realize that sounds moronic. If I can't understand the circuit pattern than how will I know if one is broken? It did to me, for a moment also but the truth is that I have had far more need to re-connect instead of creating one. It's actually more like, repairs - 10 & New circuits - 0. Just thought I'd ask. Attaboyslim
pfred2 says:
Jun 16, 2010. 12:58 PM REPLY You can put a lot of components onto one bus if they are all enabled devices with high impedance Z states. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threestate_logic Now you know! Apr 11, 2010. 6:53 AM REPLY if everything is attached to one lead, its probably the return. All of the circuits can be connected to the return without any problems(so long as its big enough to handle the current)
kernaleugene says:
TNEN says:
Thanks for the tips! The videos were really helpful!
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
raja681 says:
im fairly new to soldering and im soldering outside do i still need a fan
D5quar3 says:
I have the same cheapo soldering iron it works fine for what I am doing.
sinisaja says:
May 17, 2010. 2:01 PM REPLY This is great guide on soldering for the beginner. I like how you explain soldering of a variety of components: through hole components, surface mount components... There is another similar soldering guide: http://www.soldering-store.com/soldering_guide/soldering_guide.html Thanks. May 14, 2010. 11:43 AM REPLY THANK YOU! i was rather discouraged to start soldering, not knowing how to do things, but now i see that it's not all that hard and bad. vel SMD is still pretty terrifying but anything else.... "can i really be the hero?" :) Mar 21, 2010. 10:22 AM REPLY this is the third time i have read this, and i still dont solder like a pro. the only thi i remember after reading this is the part about soldering the leads (and i still use way too much solder) one question: how would i take off a surface mounted LED? i have removed 2 8-pin ic's but i am afraid i might melt the led. help?
kiler01 says:
zack247 says:
zack247 says:
PS: i have no solder braid and no solder pump.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/