Printing Fashion: A 3D Innovation in Textiles

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505

Table of Contents
3D Printing Development.3 Historical Use in Fashion.5 Modern Applications of 3D Printing in the Fashion World.6 Environmentally Friendly.7 Fabrics/Materials Utilized in 3D Printed Fashion.8

Fabric Swatches10

Characteristics and Serviceability10

Product Categories and Price Points12

Bibliography13

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505

Printing Fashion: A 3D Innovation in Textiles

3D Printing Development: Three dimensional printing is a concept that has been developed and reconceptualised within the past 30 years. In the 1980s the first 3D printer was developed.1 The innovation was invented by Charles W. Hull used a technique called stereolithography, in which a UV laser is shined into a vat of ultraviolet-sensitive photopolymer, tracing the object to be created Figure 1: VOGUE representative holds a finished hard copy 2 on its surface. The polymer solidifies wherever of jewelry at Shapeways production lab. Shot by VOGUE. (Bernard, 2013) the beam touches it, and the beam "prints" the object layer by layer per the instructions in the CAD/CAM (computer-aided design/computeraided manufacturing) file it's working from.3 Since this technology was developed, it has been modified and reconfigured to suit our modern world and possesses futuristic capabilities. It is now versatile and able to accomplish more than originally thought possible, and it is something that has been improving daily. In the past decade, 3D printing has been developed and modified to have purpose within many industries. This technology has been utilized to create prototypes for companies and for individuals who are curious about the capabilities of the new product. Presently, there are four methods in which modern 3D printing can be utilized to formulate a prototype:

Figure 2: Creations by Dutch Designer Iris Van Herpen during the Spring/ Summer Haute Couture Collection Show, 2012 Paris. (Fisher, 2013)
1

Hoffman, T. (2011, October 17). 3d printing: What you need to know. PCMag.com, Retrieved from http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2394722,00.asp 2 Hoffman, T. (2011, October 17). 3d printing: What you need to know. 3 Hoffman, T. (2011, October 17). 3d printing: What you need to know.

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505
Table 1: Different Types of Three Dimensional Printing

Polyjet Matrix Prototyping

Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM)

Selective Laser Sintering (SLS)

Stereolithography

The first technology that allows for the simultaneous layering of multiple types of model materials. The Polyjet rapid prototyping process uses UV acrylic based polymers to form layers. This technology leaves you with a part requiring minimal finishing. This rapid prototyping technology, like most others, begins from a file. This rapid prototyping machine dispenses two materials, one for support, and the other for the model. Thermoplastics are heated to a liquid state and deposited based on the path defined by the CAD file. The model is built from its base upwards with each layer of material being added onto the next. This form of rapid prototyping also allows for different materials to be used, although they cannot be combined. 4 This rapid prototyping technique incorporates the use of a high powered laser. The laser fuses small particles of plastic, metal, ceramic or glass powders into a 3dimensional mass. Selective laser sintering machines use a CAD file to generate the properties of the object, then selectively fuse the powdered material by scanning cross-sections generated by the CAD data. After each section is scanned the bed of the machine is lowered to apply the next layer. This method of additive manufacturing allows for a wide range of materials as well. Polymers such as nylon, polystyrene, steel, titanium, and alloy mixtures can all be used to create the prototype.5 Similar to Polyjet matrix printing, stereolithography is a rapid prototyping process that using the combination of resin and a UV laser to build prototypes one layer at a time. The CAD model provides the data for the laser to trace each cross section on the surface of the liquid resin. The UV laser then heats the resin to a solidifying state, fusing it with the layer beneath. After a layer has been completed, the build tray platform descends so a new layer of resin can be applied. After the build has been completed, the part is then immersed in a chemical bath to remove any excess resin. The final step in the stereolithography process is for the part to be cured in a UV oven. 6

These 3D prototyping methods are versatile and specialized, which makes it easy for an individual to construct an object that meets their specific requirements. Each respected method is being fined tuned each day in order to reach its maximum potential. It is clear that this technology has not reached its limits and it will definitely revolutionize product development in various ways. Someday each individual may have their own at home 3D printer, to be able to download and construct items from their own living rooms!
4

Proto3000: Rapid prototyping services. (2013). Proto3000: Rapid prototyping services. (2013). Proto3000: Rapid prototyping services. (2013).

5 6

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505 Historical Use in Fashion:

Figure 3:Bracelet retails for $60 by Continuum

Figure 4:3D Printed Shoes by Continuum

Recently, fashion has adopted this innovative design technique in order to create unique and unusual pieces. Selective laser sintering has been the most commonly used method to create 3D fashion in the past. While 3D-printed clothing is relatively new, the printing process has been used for years to create accessories including jewelry, handbags and shoes.7 Jewelry has been on the fore front of 3D printing. Jewelry designers outsourced quick modeling jobs to printing companies for years.8 Due to the small size of the pieces, prototypes were made and then pieces were manufactured once the process was perfected. Kimberly Ovitz, a jewelry designer, partnered with a 3D printing company called Shapeways to produce a 3D jewelry line.9 Although the technology had been experimented with, it was still only able to reach tiny milestones. Companies such as Hot Pop Factory printed jewelry, retailers such as New Balance began printing shoes and designers such as Ron Arab are starting to print sunglasses.10 It was confined to producing items that were miniature and less complex than a full garment. The vast abilities of 3D printing had not been explored, and what it could produce Figure 5: Jewelry created by Kimberly was limited on many frontiers. The technology was restricted to Ovitz (Mau, 2013) small scale development, but recently the doors have opened to new futuristic capabilities within the printing world.

Lewis, T. (2013, August 7). 3d printing weaves its way into fashion. Yahoo News. Retrieved from http://news.yahoo.com/3dprinting-weaves-way-fashion-200026115.html 8 Brooke, E. (2013, July 20). Why 3d printing will work in fashion. TC, Retrieved from http://techcrunch.com/2013/07/20/why3d-printing-will-work-in-fashion/ 9 Mau, D. (2013, July 19). How 3-d printing could change the fashion industry for better and for worse. Fashonista, Retrieved from http://fashionista.com/2013/07/how-3-d-printing-could-change-the-fashion-industry-for-better-and-for-worse/ 10 Hennessey, R. (2013, August 7). 3d printing hits the fashion world. Forbes, Retrieved from http://www.forbes.com/sites/rachelhennessey/2013/08/07/3-d-printed-clothes-could-be-the-next-big-thing-to-hit-fashion/

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505 Modern Applications of 3D Printing in the Fashion World: As the technology developed, more intricate capabilities were created which allowed designers to broaden their designs from accessories to full garments. Fashion forward designers began to experiment with three dimensional designs. Designers utilized the Selective Laser Sintering (refer to table 1 for definition) technology to produce 3D fashions that were able to be worn and displayed in runway fashion shows. Application of this profound technology was first displayed in 2010. During Amsterdam International Fashion Week in July 2010, Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen previewed her SS11 collection Crystallization, which included a 3D printed piece, created in collaboration with the architect Daniel Widrig and .MGX.11 This was the first 3D design to be designed, developed and worn. After the concept had been introduced and proven to be Figure 6: 3D Printed Dress by Francis functional and wearable, many other designers sought to Bitoni and Michael Schimdt worn by incorporate 3D printing within their own designs. In 2013, Dita Von Teese (Hennessy, 2013) designers Francis Bitoni and Michael Schmidt created a dress in collaboration with Shapeways for the burlesque dancer Dita Von Teese (refer to figure 6) which she wore to a conference held in New York.12 The garment was produced through 3D printing, and was composed of black-nylon and Swarovski crystals. The intricate design boasted 2,500 intersecting joint pieces that were linked together by hand, the finishing touches a black lacquer coating and 12,000 hand-placed Swarovski crystals.13 This was able to showcase the capabilities that 3D printing has grown to provide the fashion industry. A new leader in 3D fashion is Continuum. They are leading developer in utilizing 3D printing to create wearable merchandise for everyday individuals. They had previously developed 3D printed jewelry and shoes, but their latest creation is the N12 bikini. Displayed below in Figure 7, this bikini is unlike any of its 3D printed competitors. This is due to the fact that it is affordable and crafted based on individual size specifications.14 Therefore it is clear that 3D printing fashion is becoming more accessible to the general public instead of just mainly being available on runways.

11

3d printing & the future of fashion. (2012). InsicleFMM, Retrieved from http://insidefmm.com/2011/12/the-future-of-fashion3d-printing/ 12 Lewis, T. (2013, August 7). 3d printing weaves its way into fashion. 13 Hennessey, R. (2013, August 7). 3d printing hits the fashion world. 14 Continuum. (2013). Retrieved from http://continuumfashion.com/N12.php

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505

Figure 7:N12 Bikini by Continuum

Environmentally Friendly: Another reason that 3D printed fashion has become so popular is due to the fact that it is eco-friendly. The emerging technology uses ultraviolet beams to fuse layers of powdered, recyclable thermoplastic into shape, leaving behind virtually no waste.15 By utilizing UV rays as a power source, efficient energy usage can be achieved. Also 3D printing can save money and material over subtractive manufacturing techniques in which material is cut, drilled, or shaved off, as very little raw material is wasted.16 Regular manufacturing produces a large amount of excess waste, as certain portions of raw materials are discarded because they cannot be used. 3D printing can reduce waste, as it only utilizes the amount of material necessary to produce the object that it is printing. Therefore, there is never any wasted material, only material that is left over in order to produce a new item. In this way this textile technology is able to produce a green mindset by only using what is needed.

15

16

3d printing & the future of fashion. (2012). Hoffman, T. (2011, October 17). 3d printing: What you need to know. PCMag.com, Retrieved from http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2394722,00.asp

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505

Figure 8:Above shows the development of prototypes on screen and their creation into a Solid form. No extra waste was produced during the construction of these rings. These photos were produced during a visit by VOGUE to Shapeways production labs. (Bernard 2013)

Fabrics/Materials Utilized in 3D Printed Fashion:

For the nylon, they start with a white cube and it gets lasered through the pattern of the digitization and everything else falls to dust. And then you have the piece. -Kimberly Orvits, on the manufacturing of her 3D jewelry with Shapeway (Mau, 2013)

Only a few choice fabrics are utilized in 3D printing in relation to fashion production. The first fabric that is utilized is known as Nylon 12. This solid nylon is created by the SLS 3D printing process.17 Shapeways calls this material "white, Figure 9: Shapeway representative strong, and flexible", holding powdered nylon, which is because its strength allows used in the production of 3D printed objects. Shot by VOGUE. (Bernard, it to bend without 2013) breaking when printed Figure 10: 3D Printers at Shapeways production lab. Shot by very thin.18 With a VOGUE. (Bernard, 2013) minimum wall thickness of .7 mm, it is possible to
17 18

Continuum. (2013). Retrieved from http://continuumfashion.com/N12.php Continuum. (2013). Retrieved from http://continuumfashion.com/N12.php

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505 make working springs and almost thread-like connections.19 This allows for the material to be interlaced when the finished product is created. Dita Von Teesess dress was created from computer drawings that were fed into a 3D printer, which created the interlocking design by laying down thin layers of nylon powder and fusing them with a laser, a process known as laser sintering.20 They printed the dress in 12 pieces, which were dyed black and super glued together by hand.21 Nylon is also extremely functional because it is waterproof and remarkably comfortable when wet.22 Nylon seems to be the most popular material to be utilized by present day designers. The material can also be paired with others in order to produce different items. A good material to pair with Nylon would be stainless steel. Kimberly Ovitz utilized this material when producing her 3D printed jewelry line. Ovitz stated We used two materials: nylon and stainless steel.23 Stainless steel is mostly utilized in jewelry production. Other materials that are utilized in three dimensional printing include polystyrene, steel, titanium, and alloy mixtures can all be used to create a prototype.24 These materials are not generally used in garments due to the limitations put forth by the composition of the polymers as they are not extremely easy to wear. Although only a few materials are currently utilized based on the development of the technology, new fabrics are being created. For instance, Materialise, a company that prints custom-designed objects for clients, just came out with the printing material, TPU-92A-1.25 Its cushioning, elastic, and lightweight designed specifically for use in the fashion industry.26 The development of fabrics such as these will make the designs easier to wear, as they will be more comfortable and versatile. They will be appropriate for everyday life, instead of just segmented to the runway. As more and more textiles are developed to possess the same qualities, products will become mass produced. Therefore, as fabrics and textiles are generated to produce wearable 3D garments, 3D fashion will probably become generally more accepted.

19 20

Continuum. (2013).

Lewis, T. (2013, August 7). 3d printing weaves its way into fashion. Yahoo News. Retrieved from http://news.yahoo.com/3d-printing-weaves-way-fashion-200026115.html 21 Lewis, T. (2013, August 7).
22

Continuum. (2013). Retrieved from http://continuumfashion.com/N12.php

23

Mau, D. (2013, July 19). How 3-d printing could change the fashion industry for better and for worse. Fashonista, Retrieved from http://fashionista.com/2013/07/how-3-d-printing-could-change-the-fashion-industry-for-better-and-for-worse/ 24 Proto3000: Rapid prototyping services. (2013).
25
26

Hennessey, R. (2013, August 7). 3d printing hits the fashion world. Hennessey, R. (2013, August 7).

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505 Fabric Swatches:

Nylon 12 Powder

Stainless Steel

TPU-92A-1

Titanium

Characteristics and Serviceability:

"You don't wear a chainmail dress out to the grocery store,"- Bitonti (Lewis, 2013)

Material/Fabric Characteristics/ Serviceability Provides little very little stretch and elasticity, but is flexible. Is lightweight.27 Has a very Nylon 12
structured drape, very rigid with no flow. Has a smooth and strict surface interest. Retains its shape impeccably in a solid form. Is able to be combined with other printable materials easily. Has little lustre but lots of surface appeal due to its futuristic appearance. Very durable and strong in solid form. Is able to retain printed colour very well, and has a variety of finishes that make the material diverse for designers. Waterproof. Should only be used to design products that will be extremely structured, it will not provide comfort but durability and a sleek aesthetic. New fabric in 3D printing that provides stretch, elasticity and flexibility.28 Light weight and easy to bend, but very durable. Provides a very structured drape, but is still able to bend and allow mobility. Smooth surface interest, with a similar flexibility to rubber. Definitely able to retain shape. Is able to take prints and colour well. Can be finish in many different ways. Should be used to design a product in which rigid structure is a key element, but is able to provide comfort through flexibility. Retains shape well. No stretch or elasticity. Is moderately lightweight, but in large quantities it can be a heavier material. Very durable. Provides a very structured and stiff drape with absolutely no flexibility. Provides a lustre and strength to a garment. It is not very printable, but is able to be combined with Nylon to create a more wearble garment. Should be used to design a product that is not meant for comfort but to be durable and to retain a rigid and structured shape. No stretch or elasticity. Can be lightweight if used in small amounts. Very durable. Allows for a very structured and rigid drape. Very hard to the touch. Provides a metallic lustre for surface interest. Combines well with other printable materials. Is not easily printable or finishable unless paired with another material. Should be used to design a product that is not meant for comfort but to be durable and to retain a rigid and structured shape.

TPU-92A-1

Steel

Titanium

As of now, 3D printed fabrics are not exactly something to be worn on an everyday basis based on the fabrics that the garments are composed out of. Deeta Von Teeses 3D dress is not exactly the norm within society for regular street wear. So far, 3D printed garments have been meant only for the runway. They are a mix of futuristic and fantasy. And the fabrics that the
27

28

Continuum, (2013). Hennessey, R. (2013, August 7).

10

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505 garments are made of are considered uncomfortable, restrictive and confining. Nylon 12 mixed with metals would be a seemingly restrictive combination, leaving the individual who wears the garment to lack flexibility and mobility (refer to Figure 2). Within the industry development of fabrics that are more versatile, flexible and affordable are being explored in order to make the technology available to a wider population. TPU-92A-1 is the first flexible printing material to be produced.29 It will revolutionize the type of garments that can be manufactured. It will be amazing to see what will happen when a textile that can mimic properties of cotton, cloth and linen is produced as a textile for 3D printing. This can open avenues of mass production within the fashion industry, which would stimulate fast fashion while reducing waste. 3D printing also has the capability to produce a personalized and individual piece, so a garment can be created for one specific person.30 This would appeal to those who seek an individual sense of style. With new textile development on the horizon, 3D printing will definitely be something that can influence fashion for years to come.

Figure 11: Iris Van Herpen's 3D pieces. Collaborated with Strasays and Materialise to create garments for 2013 Paris Fashion Week (Materialise, 2013)

29

30

Hennessy, R. (2013). Hennessy, R. (2013).

11

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505 Product Categories and Price Points Right now, it still costs more to make apparel with 3D printers than with traditional manufacturing methods. Therefore, this production method is definitely not for everyone. It has obviously been geared to the elite class, as it has been showcased mainly in Haute Couture and Runway. Pieces made in this way are more to make an artistic statement, rather than actually be worn. But never the less, 3D printing has been converted into an affordable commodity by companies like Continuum. The bathing suit displayed in Figure 7, retails for $300 and is created to custom fit the buyers body.31 But most of the garments that have been created are at couture price points and only affordable to a select few. Therefore, in the near future individuals that could be targeted as consumers for this type of fashion would be performers. Lady Gaga and Katy Perry may sport these on tour. Another target group may be art collectors or those who truly admire the designers who have presently created three dimensional pieces. As of now, it seems unrealistic for a retailer to carry items such as these. But the items produced by Continuum could be carried by Holt Renfrew, the Bay and high end boutiques. Due to the unique appearance of 3D fashion products and their high price point, only a certain niche market could be reached to purchase. These retailers would be the most likely to reach the target markets suggested. In the future when more serviceable fabric have been made and 3D printing is more affordable and accessible, stores such as H &M, Zara and Forever 21 may use it as a means to mass produce merchandise. It seems that three dimensional fashion is far from being on the racks at department stores, but as the technology progresses this may be how fashion of the future is produced.

31

Continuum, (2013).

12

Kelcie Clarke October 18, 2013 Wayne McLennan Product Knowledge: 505 Bibliography
3d printing & the future of fashion. (2012). InsicleFMM, Retrieved from http://insidefmm.com/2011/12/the-future-of-fashion-3d-printing/ Bernard, K. (2013, May 28). New dimensions: How 3-d printers are changing fashion. Vogue, Retrieved from http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/new-dimensions-how-3-dprinters-are-changing-fashion-shapeways-and-pamela-love/ Brooke, E. (2013, July 20). Why 3d printing will work in fashion. TC, Retrieved from http://techcrunch.com/2013/07/20/why-3d-printing-will-work-in-fashion/ Continuum. (2013). Retrieved from http://continuumfashion.com/N12.php Fisher, A. (2013, October 13). 3d-printed fashion: off the printer, rather than off the peg. The Observer, Retrieved from http://www.theguardian.com/technology/2013/oct/15/3dcouture-catwalk

printed-fashion-

Hennessey, R. (2013, August 7). 3d printing hits the fashion world. Forbes, Retrieved from http://www.forbes.com/sites/rachelhennessey/2013/08/07/3-d-printed-clothes-could-be- the-next-bigthing-to-hit-fashion/ Hoffman, T. (2011, October 17). 3d printing: What you need to know. PCMag.com, Retrieved from http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2394722,00.asp Lewis, T. (2013, August 7). 3d printing weaves its way into fashion. Yahoo News. Retrieved from http://news.yahoo.com/3d-printing-weaves-way-fashion-200026115.html

Mau, D. (2013, July 19). How 3-d printing could change the fashion industry for better and for worse. Fashonista, Retrieved from http://fashionista.com/2013/07/how-3-d-printingcould-change-the-fashion-industry-for-better-and-for-worse/

Proto3000: Rapid prototyping services. (2013). Retrieved from http://proto3000.com/rapidprototyping-services.php?gclid=CJffhZTwm7oCFeIRMwod2EgAzQ Stylesight. (2013). Inside 3D Conference & Expo. Retrieved from http://www.stylesight.com/fashionoffice/boarddynamic.php?boardnum=26101&lang=en&mypage=2 Wearable stratasys and materialise 3d printed pieces hit paris fashion week at iris van herpen show. (2013, January 22). Materalise, Retrieved from http://www.materialise.com/press/wearable-stratasys-and-materialise-3d-printed-pieceshit-paris-fashion-week-at-iris-van-herpen

13