1995 - 1998 Acura 2.5TL 3.2TL Service Manual - Part8

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Guide Rails/Cable Assembly Replacement

CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the guide rails and cable assembly. 1. 2. 3. Remove the frame (see page 20-52). Remove the motor (see page 20-52). Remove the nuts, and lift off each guide rails, then remove the cable assembly with sliders attached.
SUNSHADE RAIL NUT 6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) SLIDER
GUIDE RAIL
FRAME SEAL
CABLE ASSEMBLY
INNER CABLE Apply molybdenum grease. MOTOR GROMMET
DRAIN SEAL GUIDE RAIL SUNSHADE RAIL FRAME
4.
If necessary, remove the sunshade rail and frame seal from the frame. NOTE: Take care not to bend the cable tubes and guide rails.
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Moonroof
Guide Rails/Cable Assembly Replacement (cont'd)
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Damaged parts should be replaced. Fill the groove in each grommet with sealant.
GROMMET
FRAME
SEALANT
Install the frame seal securely. Before installing the motor, make sure both sliders are parallel (see page 20-49). Before installing the motor, install the frame and glass, then check the opening drag.
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Moonroof
Link Slider/Lift-up Link Replacement
1. 2. Remove the glass (see page 20-51). Pull the front slider from the front stay.
LINK LIFTER
LINK SLIDER
COLLARS
LINK SHAFT
REAR STAY COLLAR COLLAR LIFT-UP LINK
E-CLIP Replace.
GLASS
FRONT STAY
FRONT SLIDER
3. 4.
Remove the link lifter, then remove the E-clip. Remove the lift-up link from the rear stay. Drive the link shaft out, then separate the lift-up link and link slider. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Damaged parts should be replaced. Grease the sliding portion.
5.
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Opening Drag Check (Motor Removed)

Before installing the motor, measure the effort required to open the glass using a spring scale as shown. CAUTION: When using a spring scale, protect the leading edge of the glass with a shop towel. If load is over 40 N (4 kgf, 9 Ibf), check side clearance and glass height adjustment (see page 20-50).
Closing Force Check (Motor Installed)

1.
After installing all removed parts, have a helper hold the switch to close the glass while you measure force required to stop it. Attach a spring scale as shown. Read the force as soon as the glass stops moving, then immediately release the switch and spring scale. CAUTION: When using a spring scale, protect the leading edge of the glass with a shop towel. Closing Force: 200 - 290 N (20 - 30 kgf, 44 - 66 Ibf) SHOP TOWEL
SHOP TOWEL
GLASS GLASS SPRING SCALE 2.
SPRING SCALE
If the force is not within specification, install a new lock washer, adjust the tension by turning the motor clutch adjusting nut, and bend the lock washer against the motor clutch adjusting nut. LOCK WASHER Replace.
MOTOR CLUTCH ADJUSTING NUT MOTOR
CLOCKWISE To increase force.
COUNTERCLOCKWISE To decrease force.
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Interior
Component Location Index
SRS components are located in the areas marked with an asterisk (*). Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service.
FRONT PILLAR TRIM (see page 20-58) HEADLINER Replacement page 20-61 FRONT DOOR TRIM (see page 20-57)
CENTER PILLAR LOWER TRIM (see page 20-57) REAR DOOR TRIM (see page 20-58)
REAR PILLAR TRIM (see page 20-59) REAR SEAT SIDE TRIM (see page 20-58)
DASHBOARD Component Removal/Installation, page 20-65 Replacement, page 20-68 KICK PANEL (see page 20-63)
REAR SHELF (see page 20-59)
TRUNK SIDE TRIM (see page 20-60)
FRONT DOOR SILL MOLDING (see page 20-57) DASHBOARD CENTER TRIM (see page 20-67) REAR DOOR SILL MOLDING (see page 20-57) SPARE TIRE LID TRUNK FRONT TRIM (see page 20-60) CARPET Replacement, page 20-62
REAR TRIM PANEL (see page 20-61)
CENTER CONSOLE Replacement, page 20-64
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Interior Trim
Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the trim. When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage. NOTE: Take care not to bend or scratch the trim. Front and rear door sill moldings/Front door trim/Center pillar lower trim/Front pillar trim: 1. Remove the front and rear door sill moldings. 2. 3. 4. Remove the kick panel (see page 20-63). Slide the front seat forward fully. Remove the center pillar lower trim.
CENTER PILLAR LOWER TRIM FRONT DOOR SILL MOLDING
5.
Remove the front door trim, and pull away the rear door trim as necessary.
Forward REAR DOOR TRIM
FRONT DOOR TRIM
REAR DOOR SILL MOLDING
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Interior Trim
Replacement (cont'd)
6. Remove the upper anchor bolt from the front seat belt (see page 20-88). Remove the front pillar trim. NOTE: Pull away the top of the rear pillar trim, then remove the rear end of the front pillar trim from the rear pillar trim. 2. 3. Rear seat side trim/Rear door trim: 1. 7. Remove the rear seat cushion and rear seat-back (see page 20-85). Remove the rear door sill molding (see page 20-57). Remove the rear seat side trim.
FRONT PILLAR TRIM
REAR SEAT
SIDE TRIM
REAR PILLAR TRIM
FRONT PILLAR TRIM 4. Remove the center pillar lower trim (see page 20-57). Remove the rear door trim.
8.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips. Make sure the front and rear door trim is installed securely.
5.
Lower portion:
Upper portion:
Outside
TRIM
Outside
TRIM
DOOR TRIM
DOOR TRIM
6.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips. Make sure the rear door trim is installed securely.
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Rear pillar trim/Rear shelf: 1. Remove the rear seat cushion and rear seat-back (see page 20-85). Pull away the rear door trim as on each side necessary. Remove the rear pillar trim from each side. NOTE: Detach the hooks from the front pillar trim by sliding the rear pillar trim backward. FRONT PILLAR TRIM
4. 5.
Remove the high mount brake light. Remove the rear shelf.
2.
3.
4 N-m (0.4 kgf-m, 3 Ibf-ft)
5 x 0.8 mm
REAR PILLAR TRIM
NOTE: Slip the rear seat belts through the slit in the rear shelf. HIGH MOUNT REAR SHELF BRAKE LIGHT
SLIT HOOKS
REAR PILLAR TRIM
REAR SEAT BELT SLIT 6. REAR DOOR TRIM
REAR SEAT BELT
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips. When installing the rear shelf and rear seat-back, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the rear seat belt. Make sure the rear door trim is installed securely (see page 20-58).
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Trunk Trim
Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the trim and panels. When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage. NOTE: Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. Trunk front trim/Trunk side trim: 1. Remove the rear seat cushion and rear seat-back (see page 20-85). Remove the clips. If necessary, remove the trunk front trim.
REAR TRIM PANEL
TRUNK SIDE TRIM
2.
When removing the trunk front trim, remove these clips too.
TRUNK FRONT TRIM
TRUNK SIDE TRIM
5.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips. When installing the trunk side trim, install the A clips on the rear of it as follows.
3. 4.
Open the trunk lid, then remove the spare tire lid. Remove the trunk side trim.
a. Pull the inner clip up as shown. INNER CLIP
b. Install the clip in the rear trim panel, then push the inner clip until it's flush. INNER CLIP
CLIP
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Rear trim panel: 1. Open the trunk lid, then remove the spare tire lid. 2. Remove the rear trim panel.
REAR TRIM PANEL
3.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips.
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Headliner
Replacement
CAUTION: When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage. NOTE: Take care not to bend and scratch the headliner. Be careful not to damage the dashboard and other interior trim. 1. Remove: Front and rear door sill moldings (one side, see page 20-57) Front and rear door trim (both sides, see pages 20-57,20- 58) Front pillar trim (one side, see page 20-58) Center pillar lower trim (one side, see page 20-57) Rear pillar trim (one side, see page 20-59) Spotlight and spotlight trim (see page 20-35) Rearview mirror (see page 20-35) Ceiling light (see section 23) Window antenna terminal cover (see page 20-43) Remove the sunvisor and holder from each side. Disconnect both positive terminals.
2.
HOLDER
POSITIVE TERMINAL
SUNVISOR NOTE: If necessary, remove the sunvisor bracket as shown. When installing the sunvisor bracket, apply grease and make sure it's installed properly. Pull out the wire harness.
SUNVISOR
BRACKET
TUBE
SUNVISOR
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Headliner
3. Remove the grab handles and clips, and remove the roof trim and socket plug (moonroof model).
SOCKET PLUG
HEADLINER
ROOF TRIM JOINT
REAR PILLAR TRIM
GRAB HANDLE
Without moonroof model
FRONT PILLAR TRIM
4. 5.
Lower the front and rear pillar trim on one side. Detach the clips by sliding the headliner back, then remove it. NOTE: Take care not to damage the window antenna terminal.
6.
Remove the headliner through the passenger's door opening. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: When inserting the headliner through the door opening, be careful not to fold or bend it. Also, be careful not to scratch the body. Check that both sides of the headliner are securely attached to the trim. When installing the roof trim, install the joint toward the rear.
7.
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Carpet
Replacement
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service. 1. Remove: Front seat (see page 20-71) Rear seat cushion (see page 20-85) Front door sill molding (see page 20-57) Rear door sill molding (see page 20-57) Front seat belt lower anchor (see page 20-88) Center pillar lower trim (see page 20-57) Center console (see page 20-64) Dashboard center trim (see page 20-67) Opener cover (see page 20-115) Remove the accelerator pedal stop and footrest. NOTE: Loosen the clips using a hex wrench by turning them counterclockwise.
2.
6 x 1.0 mm
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) CLIP ACCELERATOR PEDAL STOP
FOOTREST
3.
Cut area
in the carpet, then pull it back as shown.
CARPET
FASTENER
SRS UNIT
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4.
Remove the kick panels.
5.
Detach the retainers, then remove the carpet. NOTE: Take care not to damage, wrinkle or twist the carpet.
SEAT HARNESS
FASTENER HOOKS
FASTENERS LEFT KICK PANEL
CARPET HOOK
FASTENERS
Remove the kick panel while pulling the hood release handle.
When installing, slip the slits in the carpet over the hooks. SLIT
6.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Take care not to damage, wrinkle or twist the carpet. Make sure the seat harness is routed correctly. If necessary, replace any damaged clips. Reattach the cut area in the carpet with a wire tie as shown.
RIGHT KICK PANEL
Cut off.
WIRE TIE SLIT
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Center Console
Replacement
CAUTION: When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the center console, front seat and related parts. Center console/Center console panel removal: 1. 2. Slide the front seats backward fully. Remove the A/T gear position indicator trim, and disconnect the indicator light. 5. Remove the screws from under the center console. CENTER CONSOLE
ASHTRAY BASE 6. Detach the clips, then remove the center console panel. ASHTRAY BASE A/T GEAR POSITION INDICATOR TRIM 3. Open the armrest, then remove the inner mat and remove the ashtray. CENTER CONSOLE PANEL
INDICATOR LIGHT
ASHTRAY CENTER CONSOLE INNER

MAT
HOOK
7.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the wire harnesses are not pinched. Make sure the connector is connected properly.
Beverage holder removal: Detach the clips, then pull it up. CIGARETTE LIGHTER CONNECTOR
CENTER CONSOLE
ARMREST
CENTER CONSOLE PANEL CLIP
4.
Remove the screws, then remove the center console. Disconnect the cigarette lighter connector.
BEVERAGE HOLDER
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Dashboard
Component Removal/Installation
CAUTION: When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts, to prevent damage. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts. Instrument panel removal: 1. 2. Lower the steering column. Remove the screws, and detach the clips, then carefully pull out the instrument panel. Disconnect the clock and hazard warning switch connectors, then remove the instrument panel. NOTE: Remove the lower screws while peeling back the lip. Dashboard lower cover and knee bolster removal: SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service. 1. Remove the screws, and detach the clips, then remove the dashboard lower cover.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
CONNECTOR (CLOCK) 2.
DASHBOARD LOWER COVER Remove the bolts, detach the harness clips and connector clip, then remove the knee bolster.
SRS MAIN HARNESS
6 x 1.0 mm
9.8 N-m
(1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
HAZARD WARNING SWITCH CONNECTOR

LIP
Peel back.
3.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the connectors are connected properly. CLIPS KNEE BOLSTER 3. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
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Dashboard
Component Removal/Installation (cont'd)
Dashboard center panel/Radio panel/Switch panel removal: 1, Carefully detach the clips, then pull out the dashboard center panel. 5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the connectors and antenna lead are connected properly. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. Driver's switch panel removal: 1. DASHBOARD CENTER PANEL CONNECTORS Carefully detach the clips, then pull out the driver's switch panel. Disconnect the connectors, then remove it.
CONNECTOR CONNECTORS CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT 2. Disconnect the connectors, then remove the dashboard center panel. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Remove the screws, then pull out the radio panel with the stereo radio/cassette player. Disconnect the connectors and antenna lead, then remove it. 2.
3.
4.
DRIVER'S SWITCH PANEL Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the connectors are connected properly.
CONNECTORS RADIO PANEL
STEREO RADIO/ CASSETTE PLAYER
SHOP TOWEL
ANTENNA LEAD
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Glove box removal: 1. 2. Open the glove box. Detach the damper clip. Remove the bolts while holding the glove box, then remove it. Bolt locations, 2
5 x 0.8 mm 9 N-m (0.9 kgf-m, 7 Ibf-ft)
DAMPER CLIP DAMPER
GLOVE BOX
3.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
Side air vent (Front passenger's)/Side defogger trim removal: SIDE DEFOGGER TRIM Carefully pry it at the rear edge, Clip locations then remove it. SHOP TOWEL
HOOK HOOK
CLIP
CLIP Push here. SIDE AIR VENT Open the glove box, then push the clips from the glove box opening by hand, and pull it out.
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Replacement
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS section 24 before preforming repairs or service. NOTE: An assistant is helpful when removing and installing the dashboard. Take care not to scratch the dashboard, body and related parts. 1. Remove: Dashboard lower cover (see page 20-65) Knee bolster (see page 20-65) Center console (see page 20-64) Glove box Kick panels (see page 20-63) Remove the dashboard center trim.
Clip locations
2.
DASHBOARD CENTER TRIM
3.
Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
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Dashboard
4. Lower the steering column (see section 17). 5. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness connectors and harness clips. CLIPS CONNECTOR
To avoid accidental deployment and possible injury, always disconnect the driver's airbag connector before lowering the steering column (see section 24). NOTE: To prevent damage to the steering column, wrap it with a shop towel.
8 x 1.25 mm
38 N-m (3.9 kgf-m, 28 Ibf-ft)
10 x 1.25 mm
16 N-m (1.6 kgf-m, 12 Ibf-ft) Replace.
DASHBOARD WIRE HARNESS CONNECTORS
DASHBOARD WIRE HARNESS STEERING COLUMN
CONNECTORS
6.
Remove the airbag bracket. To avoid accidental deployment and possible injury, always install the protective short connector on the front passenger's airbag connector when the SRS main harness is disconnected (see section 24).
6 x 1.0 mm
9.8 N-m
AIRBAG BRACKET
(1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
STEERING JOINT COVER
CLAMPS
FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
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7.
Remove the bolts. CAUTION: Use protective plates on the bottom of the front pillar trim.
9.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the dashboard fits onto the guide pin correctly. Before tightening the bolts, make sure the dashboard wire harnesses are not pinched. Make sure the connectors, antenna lead and air hose are connected properly. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets.
6 x 1.0 mm
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
5 x 0.8 mm
9 N-m (0.9 kgf-m, 7 Ibf-ft) PROTECTIVE PLATE
PROTECTIVE PLATE DASHBOARD

CAP
GUIDE PIN
CAP
CAP
CAP
SHOP TOWEL SHOP TOWEL
8.
Lift and pull out the dashboard half-way, then disconnect the connectors, antenna lead and air hose while holding the dashboard. CAUTION: Do not drop the dashboard. DASHBOARD
IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CONNECTOR
CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT CONNECTORS
AIR
HOSE CONNECTOR ANTENNA LEAD SRS UNIT CLIP
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Seats/Seat Belts
REAR SEAT BELT Replacement, page 20-90 Inspection, page 20-92 FRONT SEAT BELT Replacement, page 20-88 Inspection, page 20-92 REAR SEAT BELT BUCKLE/ CENTER BELT TONGUE (see page 20-91)
SHOULDER ANCHOR ADJUSTER (see page 20-88)
REAR SEAT-BACK Removal, page 20-85 Seat Cover Replacement, page 20-87 REAR SEAT CUSHION Removal, page 20-85 Seat Cover Replacement, page 20-86 FRONT SEAT BELT BUCKLES (see page 20-89)
FRONT SEATS Removal, page 20-71 Seat-back Replacement, page 20-72 Seat Cushion Replacement, page 20-74 Seat Cover Replacement, page 20-76 Seat Tracks (Manually adjustable) Replacement, page 20-78 Seat Linkage (Fully power adjustable) Index, page 20-79
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Front Seat
Removal
CAUTION: When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the seat covers and body. 1. Slide the front seat forward, then remove the seat track end covers. FRONT SEAT 34 N-m (3.5 kgf-m, 25 Ibf-ft)
10 x 1.25 mm
3.
Slide the front seat backward, then remove the seat track end cover, and remove the bolts.
SEAT TRACK END COVER SEAT TRACK END COVER
FRONT SEAT
Driver's: SEAT TRACK END COVER
Passenger's: SEAT TRACK END COVER 4. Lift the driver's seat, then disconnect the seat harness connector and seat belt switch connector. DRIVER'S SEAT
2.
Remove the bolts.
34 N-m (3.5 kgf-m, 25 Ibf-ft)
10 x 1.25 mm
34 N-m (3.5 kgf-m, 25 Ibf-ft) FRONT SEAT SEAT BELT SWITCH CONNECTOR 5. SEAT HARNESS CONNECTOR
10 x 1.25 mm
Carefully remove the front seat through the door opening. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the connectors are connected properly (driver's).
Driver's: A Passenger's :B Driver's: B Passenger's: A
6.
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Front Seat
Seat-back Replacement
CAUTION: When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the seat covers and body. 1. Remove the front seat through the door opening (see page 20-71). Remove the recline cover. HOOKS 3. Remove the back cover. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips.
2.
Fully power adjustable: Disconnect the connectors. CONNECTORS HOOKS
BACK COVER 4. Release the hook and clip. Detach the harness clip (fully power adjustable seat). Fold the seat-back cover and pad, then remove the bolts. NOTE: Replace the released clip of the seat-back cover with a new one. SEAT HARNESS
CAP
10 x 1.25 mm
CLIP
RECLINE COVER Manually adjustable:
CLIP
47 N-m (4.8 kgf-m, 35 Ibf-ft) CLIP
HOOK
RECLINE KNOB
RECLINE COVER
SEAT-BACK COVER
PAD
RECLINE ADJUSTER
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5.
Remove the pivot cover, then remove the pivot nut.
6.
Remove the seat-back. NOTE: Take care not to bend the hinge bracket.
8 x 1.25 mm
22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft) Fully power adjustable: HINGE BRACKET PIVOT COVER BUSHING
SEAT-BACK
RECLINE ADJUSTER COVER PIVOT WASHER Manually adjustable: 7.
BUSHING (Fully power adjustable)
PIVOT WASHER (Manually adjustable)
If necessary, remove the recline adjuster cover (fully power adjustable seat). RECLINE ADJUSTER COVER
PIVOT WASHER
HINGE BRACKET
PIVOT COVER
BUSHING
8.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the bushing and pivot washer are installed properly. To prevent wrinkles when installing the seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly over the pad.
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Front Seat
Seat Cushion Replacement
CAUTION: When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the seat covers and body. 1. Remove the front seat through the door opening (see page 20-71). Remove the recline cover (see page 20-72). Remove the center cover (fully power adjustable seat), or release the hook (manually adjustable seat). Fully power adjustable: SEATBACK RECLINE MOTOR CONNECTOR 4. Fully power adjustable seat: Remove the back cover (see page 20-72), then disconnect the recline motor connector, and detach the harness clip.
2. 3.
CLIP
5.
CENTER COVER
Fully power adjustable seat: Disconnect the connectors, and detach the harness clips and connector clips. Release the clips, then fold the seat cushion cover, and slip the wire harnesses through the hole in the seat cushion cover. NOTE: Replace the released clips of the seat cushion cover with new ones.
Manually adjustable:
CONNECTOR Disconnect.
WIRE
HARNESSES
HOOK SEAT CUSHION COVER
CLIP SEAT CUSHION COVER CLIP HOLE
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6.
Fully power adjustable seat: Release the wire ties from the seat cushion.
8.
Fully power adjustable seat: Pull the seat harness out from the seat cushion.
SEAT HARNESS
SEAT CUSHION
WIRE HARNESSES 7. Remove the bolts, then remove the seat cushion. 9.
10 x 1.25 mm
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the seat harness is routed and fastened properly. Make sure the connectors are connected properly.
47 N-m (4.8 kgf-m, 35 Ibf-ft) SEAT CUSHION
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Front Seat
Seat Cover Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the seat covers. NOTE Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers. Remove the clips as shown.
CLIP HOOKS
5.
Loosen the seat-back cover by releasing all the hooks and the clip.
SEAT-BACK COVER
HOOKS
Seat-back cover removal: 1. Slide the front seat forward, and fold the seat-back forward. Remove the back cover (see page 20-72). Remove the headrest and headrest guides.
HEADREST GUIDE KNOB CLIP HOOKS CLIP
2. 3.
6.
Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, release the clips, and remove the seat-back cover.
CLIP SEAT-BACK COVER
HEADREST GUIDES
SEAT-BACK
4.
If so equipped, remove the lumbar support knob.

LUMBAR SUPPORT KNOB
7.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the hooks and clip. Replace the released clips with new ones.
CLIP
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Seat cushion cover removal: 1. Remove the seat cushion (see page 20-74). NOTE: Remove the seat harness from the seat cushion (fully power adjustable seat, see page 20-74). 2. Remove the clips and hooks from under the seat cushion, then loosen the seat cushion cover. Fully power adjustable: CLIPS HOOK
3.
Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, release the clips, and remove the seat cushion cover.
CLIPS
SEAT CUSHION COVER SEAT CUSHION COVER CLIP 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the clips, hooks and inside springs. Replace the released clips with new ones.
Manually adjustable:
CLIPS HOOK
UPHOLSTERY RING PLIERS (Commercially available)
NEW CLIP
SEAT CUSHION COVER
SEAT FRAME CLIPS
SEAT COVER
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Front Seat
Seat Tracks (Manually adjustable) Replacement
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the seat covers and body. 1. 2. Remove the front seat through the door opening (see page 20-71). Remove: Seat-back (see page 20-72) Seat cushion (see page 20-74) Seat belt buckle (see page 20-89) Disconnect the connecting wire from the seat track. NOTE: Take care not to bend the connecting wire. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Grease the sliding portion. Connect the connecting wire by twisting it 180 as shown. Check the seat track and recline adjuster operation.
3.
LOWER
CAP
OUTER SEAT TRACK/ RECLINE ADJUSTER LOWER

CAP
CONNECTING WIRE
INNER SEAT TRACK CONNECTING WIRE Twist 180.
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Seat Linkage (Fully power adjustable) Index
RECLINE MOTOR Replacement, page 20-82
RECLINE ADJUSTER Replacement, page 20-80
BUSHING SLIDE/UP-DOWN ADJUSTER Replacement, page 20-80 BUSHING LINK COVER
LINK COVER REAR UP-DOWN MOTOR Replacement, page 20-84 HARNESS HOLDER
BUSHING
FRONT UP-DOWN MOTOR Replacement, page 20-84
BUSHING SLIDE GEARBOX Replacement, page 20-83
SLIDE JOINT CABLE Replacement, page 20-81 SLIDE MOTOR Replacement, page 20-83
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Front Seat
Recline Adjuster, Slide/Up-down Adjuster Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the recline adjuster and slide/up-down adjuster. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the seat covers and body. Before removing the front seat, raise the seat cushion to its front maximum height. 1. Remove the front seat through the door opening (see page 20-71). Remove the seat-back and seat cushion (see pages 20-72, 20-74). If necessary, remove the seat belt buckle (see page 20-89) and recline adjuster cover (see page 20-73). Separate the recline adjuster and slide/up-down adjuster. SLIDE/UP-DOWN ADJUSTER Apply liquid thread lock. Front: RECLINE ADJUSTER BUSHING Replace.
2.
3.
4.
Rear: BUSHING Replace.
6 x 1.0 mm
8 x 1.25mm 14 N-m (1.4 kgf-m, 10 Ibf-ft)
6 x 1.0 mm
RECLINE ADJUSTER
LINK COVER
LINK
RECLINE ADJUSTER
Apply liquid thread lock. SLIDE/UP-DOWN ADJUSTER SLIDE/UP-DOWN ADJUSTER
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5.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Replace the bushings with new ones as follows. a. Install the bushing. BUSHING
b. Hold the bushing down against a metal plate, then flare the edge of the bushing using a center punch as shown. CENTER PUNCH METAL PLATE
BUSHING c. Flatten the bushing using a flat tip screwdriver as shown.
METAL PLATE FLAT TIP SCREWDRIVER
BUSHING Check the recline adjuster and slide/up-down adjuster operations.
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Side Joint Cable Replacement

CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the slide joint cable. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the seat covers. 1. Remove the front seat, then lay it on its back (see page 20-71). Remove the slide joint cable. NOTE: Take care not to bend the slide joint cable. 3.7 N-m (0.38 kgf-m, 2.7 Ibf-ft)
2.
SLIDE MOTOR
SLIDE GEARBOX SLIDE JOINT CABLE 3. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: When installing the slide joint cable, set the inner cable securely. SLIDE JOINT CABLE
INNER CABLE Check that the slide motor and slide gearbox operate properly.
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Front Seat
Recline Motor Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the recline motor. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the seat covers. 1. Remove the front seat through the door opening (see page 20-71). Remove: Seat-back (see page 20-72) Seat cushion (see page 20-74) Recline adjuster cover (see page 20-73) Remove the recline motor. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Before installing the recline motor, apply grease (molybdenum grease) to the gear portion. Replace the recline motor, bracket, pin and screw as an assembly. Make sure the connector is connected properly. Check the recline adjuster operation.
2.
3.
RECLINE MOTOR BRACKET
3 N-m (0.3 kgf-m, 21 Ibf-ft)
5 x 0.8 mm
RECLINE MOTOR
Apply liquid thread lock.
RECLINE ADJUSTER
PIN
SCREW
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Slide Motor, Slide Gearbox Replacement

CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the slide motor and slide gearbox. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the seat cover. To remove the slide motor and slide gearbox, slide the front seat backward fully, and raise the seat cushion to its front maximum height. 1. Remove the front seat through the door opening (see page 20-71). Remove the recline cover (see page 20-72). Remove the slide joint cable (see page 20-81). Disconnect the slide motor connector. Remove the bolts from each side. SLIDE MOTOR 6. Remove the slide motor and slide gearbox while moving the lower rails. NOTE: Take care not to damage the slide lead screws. LOWER RAIL SLIDE LEAD SCREW
2. 3. 4. 5.
SLIDE LEAD SCREW
6 x 1.0 mm
8 N-m (0.8 kgf-m, 6 Ibf-ft) Apply liquid thread lock.
6 x 1.0 mm 9 N-m (0.9 kgf-m, 7 Ibf-ft)

Apply liquid thread lock. 7.
SLIDE GEARBOX
LOWER RAIL
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Before installing the box, grease the slide Before installing the box, align portion Check the slide lead
CONNECTOR
SLIDE MOTOR
slide motor and slide gearlead screws as shown. slide motor and slide gearas shown. screw for bending.
SLIDE GEARBOX SLIDE LEAD SCREW SLIDE GEARBOX SLIDE LEAD SCREW SLIDE MOTOR
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Front Seat
Slide Motor, Slide Gearbox Replacement (cont'd)
When installing the slide motor and slide gearbox, make sure the end of the slide lead screw is positioned properly.
SLIDE LEAD SCREW
GUIDE
When installing the slide joint cable, engage the inner cable securely. Make sure the slide motor connector is connected properly. Check the slide motor and slide gearbox operations.
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Front Seat
Front and Rear Up-down Motors Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the front and rear up-down motors. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the seat covers. Before removing the front seat, raise the seat cushion to its maximum height. 1. Remove the front seat through the door opening (see page 20-71). Remove the seat cushion (see page 20-74). From under the seat linkage, disconnect the front and rear up-down motor connectors, and remove the bolts. Bolt locations, 2 5 N-m (0.5 kgf-m, 4 Ibf-ft) Apply liquid thread lock.
6 x 1.0 mm
2. 3.
REAR UP-DOWN MOTOR
FRONT UP-DOWN MOTOR
CONNECTOR
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4.
From the top of the seat linkage, remove the nuts, then remove the front and rear up-down motors by pulling them down.
8 x 1.25 mm
14 N-m (1.4 kgf-m, 10 Ibf-ft)
REAR UP-DOWN MOTOR
FRONT UP-DOWN MOTOR
5.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Before installing the front and rear up-down motors, grease the up-down lead screws. Check the up-down lead screw for bending. Replace the bushings with new ones as described on page 20-81. Make sure the connectors are connected properly. Check the front and rear up-down motors operations. UP-DOWN LEAD SCREW BUSHING Replace.
UP-DOWN MOTOR
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Rear Seat
Removal
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the seat covers and body. 1. Remove the seat cushion.
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)

SEAT CUSHION HOOK
Remove the bolt while lifting the seat-back upward. SEAT CUSHION
SEAT-BACK
2.
Open the trunk lid, then remove the clips.
ARMREST LID
TRUNK FRONT TRIM
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Rear Seat
Removal (cont'd)
3. Remove the seat-back by lifting it upward. CAUTION: Use protective plates on the bottom of the rear pillar trim.
ROD
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) PROTECTIVE PLATE
6 x 1.0 mm
(Seat-back side) HOOK (Body side) PROTECTIVE PLATE
SEAT-BACK
4.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Before attaching the seat-back and seat cushion, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the rear seat belts and center belts.
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Rear Seat
Seat Cover Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the seat covers. NOTE: Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers. Remove the clips as shown. CLIP
Seat-back cover removal: 1. 2. Remove the seat-back (see page 20-85). Remove the armrest and armrest lid.
ARMREST
LID
BUSHING
SEAT-BACK ARMREST HOOKS
ARMREST
LID
SEAT-BACK
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3.
Loosen the seat-back cover by releasing all the clips and hooks. SEAT-BACK COVER HOOKS CLIP
Seat cushion cover removal: 1. 2. Remove the seat cushion (see page 20-85). Loosen the seat cushion cover by releasing all the clips. CLIP SEAT CUSHION COVER
4.
Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, release the clips, and remove the seat-back cover. CLIP
3.
Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, release the clips, and remove the seat cushion cover. CLIP
SEAT CUSHION COVER SEAT-BACK COVER 5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the hooks and clips. Replace the released clips with new ones. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the clips. Replace the released clips with new ones. SEAT COVER NEW CLIP
UPHOLSTERY RING PLIERS (Commercially available)
ROD
(Cover side) WIRE (Pad side)
PAD
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Seat Belt
Inspection
Retractor Inspection 1. Before installing the retractor, check that the seat belt can be pulled out freely. Make sure that the seat belt does not lock when the retractor is leaned slowly up to 15 from the mounted position. The seat belt should lock when the retractor is leaned over 40. CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble the retractor. Front:
Mounted Position
On-the-Car Seat Belt Inspection 1. Check that the seat belt is not twisted or caught on anything. After installing the anchors, check for free movement on the anchor bolts. If necessary, remove the anchor bolts and check that the washers and other parts are not damaged or improperly installed. Check the seat belts for damage or discoloration. Clean with a shop towel if necessary. CAUTION: Use only soap and water to clean. NOTE: Dirt build-up in the metal loops of the upper anchors can cause the seat belts to retract slowly. Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol. 4. Check that the seat belt does not lock when pulled out slowly. The seat belt is designed to lock only during a sudden stop or impact. Make sure that the seat belt will retract automatically when released. For each passenger's seat belt, make sure that the locking mechanism in the seat belt retractor will engage when the seat belt is pulled all the way out. Replace the seat belt with a new one if there is any abnormality.
2.
2.
3.
5.
RETRACTOR
Forward
Inside
6.
7. Rear:
RETRACTOR
Inside
Forward
3.
Replace the seat belt with a new one if there is any abnormality.
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Child Seat Anchor Plate

Attachment points are provided for a rear seat mounted child restraint system which uses a top tether. The attachment points are located on the rear shelf, just behind the rear seat-back. When using a child seat with a top tether, install the child seat anchor plates securely. NOTE: Remove the plug covers from the attachment points of the rear shelf (Canada). Use a razor blade or sharp knife to carefully cut a 1 inch diameter circle at the location of the attachment point (USA). NOTE: Do not remove the toothed washer from the child seat anchor plate. Use the child seat anchor plate with the toothed washer attached to it. When installing a child seat on the rear seat, follow the instructions of the manufacturer of the child seat. Additional anchor plates are available. Do not use the child seat anchor plate for any other purpose; it is designed exclusively for installation of a child seat.
285 mm (11.2 in)
165 mm (6.49 in)
PLUG COVER (Canada only)
ATTACHMENT POINT
322 mm (12.7 in)
REAR SHELF ATTACHMENT POINTS
8 x 1.25 mm
22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft)
CHILD SEAT ANCHOR PLATE
TOOTHED WASHER
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Exterior/Opener Cable/Opener and Latch/Wiper and Washer

ROOF MOLDING Replacement, RETAINERS and WEATHERSTRIP page 20-104 Replacement, page 20-105 TRUNK LID TRUNK LID WEATHERSTRIP Replacement, page 20-100 Adjustment, page 20-102 Replacement, page 20-103 LICENSE PLATE TRIM Replacement, page 20-103 REAR BUMPER Replacement, page 20-96
AIR SCOOP (see page 20-117) HOOD Replacement, page 20-98 Adjustment, page 20-99
REAR AIR OUTLET Replacement, page 20-112 FUEL PIPE PROTECTOR Replacement, page 20-112 FENDERWELL TRIM Replacement, page 20-112 SIDE SILL PANEL Replacement, page 20-111 DOOR and SIDE MOLDINGS Replacement, page 20-107 Door Moldings Removal, page 20-108 Door Moldings Installation, page 20-110 LOCK CYLINDER (see page 20-116) TRUNK LID LATCH (see page 20-116)
FRONT GRILLE Replacement, page 20-104 FRONT BUMPER Replacement page 20-95
INNER FENDER Replacement, page 20-112
WINDSHIELD WASHER NOZZLES Adjustment, page 20-119 WASHER TUBE Replacement, page 20-118 WASHER RESERVOIR Replacement, page 20-118
WINDSHIELD WIPER ARMS/ WINDSHIELD WIPER LINKAGE Replacement, page 20-117 Adjustment, page 20-119
FUEL LID LATCH (see page 20-115)
FUEL LID OPENER CABLE (see page 20-113) HOOD LATCH (see page 20-114) HOOD OPENER CABLE (see page 20-113) HOOD RELEASE HANDLE (see page 20-114) TRUNK LID OPENER CABLE (see page 20-113) TRUNK LID/FUEL LID OPENER (see page 20-115)
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Front Bumper
Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the front bumper. NOTE: An assistant is helpful when removing the front bumper. Take care not to scratch the front bumper and body. Open the hood. 1. Remove the front grille (see page 20-104). 2. Remove the bolts and screw from each side. ABSORBER 5. Remove the front bumper beam. 4. Remove the absorber from the front bumper. FRONT BUMPER
8 x 1.25 mm
FRONT BUMPER
22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft) CORROSION RESISTANT BOLT PLATE
INNER FENDER 3. Remove the clips. Remove the front bumper, then disconnect the connectors. FRONT BUMPER BEAM 6. Remove the front bumper upper beam.
8 x 1.25 mm 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft)
FRONT BUMPER UPPER BEAM
FRONT TURN SIGNAL LIGHT CONNECTORS
FRONT BUMPER
FRONT TURN SIGNAL LIGHT CONNECTORS
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Front Bumper
7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Align the front bumper with the front fender and headlight properly, then tighten the bolts.
SIDE CLIP
HOOK
FRONT BUMPER UPPER BEAM
FRONT BUMPER
BOLTS
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Rear Bumper
Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the rear bumper. NOTE: An assistant is helpful when removing the rear bumper. Take care not to scratch the rear bumper and body. Open the trunk lid. 1. Remove the screws and clip from each side.
CLIP GROMMET REAR BUMPER
REAR BUMPER
2.
Remove the clips, then remove the rear bumper.
REAR BUMPER
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3.
Pull the trunk side trim back, then remove the nut from the trunk area on each side. Remove the nuts from under the rear floor on each side, then remove the absorber and rear bumper beam. Remove the nuts, then remove the rear bumper upper beam.
5.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips. When installing the trunk side trim, install the clips as follows. a. Pull the inner clip up as shown. INNER CLIP
4.
22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft)
8 x 1.25 mm
6 x 1.0 mm
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) b. Install the clip in the trunk side trim, then push the inner clip until it's flush. INNER CLIP
INNER CLIP
CLIP Make sure the rear bumper engages the side clips and hooks on each side securely.
NUT
TRUNK SIDE TRIM
SIDE CLIPS REAR BUMPER
REAR BUMPER UPPER BEAM
HOOKS
REAR BUMPER UPPER BEAM
REAR BUMPER BEAM
ABSORBER
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Hood
Replacement
NOTE: An assistant is helpful when removing the hood. Take care not to damage the hood and body. When removing the clips, use a clip remover. Open the hood. 1. If necessary, remove the hood edge protector and hood insulator. 3. Remove the hood. NOTE: If necessary, remove the hood hinge.
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m
(1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
HOOD
HOOD EDGE PROTECTOR HOOD SEAL
HOOD HINGES
HOOD SEAL WASHER TUBE COVERS (see page (see page 20-118)
20-118)
HOOD INSULATOR
HOOD HINGE
2.
Disconnect the washer tube at the L-joint, and detach the clip from the hood hinge.
HOOD HINGE
WASHER TUBE 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips. Make sure the hood locks securely. Make sure the hood opens properly. Adjust the hood alignment. Adjust the aim of the windshield washer nozzles (see page 20-119).
WASHER TUBE CLIP L-JOINT
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Adjustment
NOTE: Before adjusting the hood, loosen each bolt slightly. 1. 2. 3. 4. Adjust the hood hinges right and left, as well as fore and aft, by using the elongated holes. Turn the hood edge cushions, as necessary, to make the hood fit flush with the body at front and side edges. Adjust the hood latch to obtain the proper height at the forward edge. After adjustment, tighten each bolt securely. HOOD EDGE CUSHION HOOD HINGE HOOD HINGE HOOD
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) HOOD
6 x 1.0 mm
HOOD LATCH HOOD EDGE CUSHIONS (Body side) NOTE: Move the hood latch right or left until the striker is centered in the hood latch as shown. HOOD LATCH
HOOD LATCH
STRIKER
6 x 1.0 mm
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
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Trunk Lid
Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the trunk lid. NOTE: An assistant is helpful when removing and installing the trunk lid. Take care not to damage the trunk lid and body. Take care not to scratch the trunk lid trim. Open the trunk lid. 1. Remove the trunk lid trim. TRUNK LID TRIM 3. Remove the bolts, then remove the trunk lid.
6 x 1.0 mm
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) TRUNK LID
4.
If necessary, remove the trunk lid hinge as follows. a. Remove the rear shelf (see page 20-59). b. Remove the torsion bars with the torsion bar assembly tool.
2.
Disconnect the connectors and trunk lid opener cable. Remove the wire harness and trunk lid opener cable from the trunk lid. NOTE: Before pulling out the opener cable, tie a string to the end of it so you can pull it back in when the trunk lid is reinstalled. TRUNK LID LATCH (see page 20-116) TRUNK LID OPENER CABLE CONNECTOR CONNECTORS
TRUNK LID HINGE
TORSION BAR CENTER CLIP
TORSION BARS
TORSION BAR CENTER CLIP
TORSION BAR ASSEMBLY TOOL WIRE HARNESS LICENSE PLATE LIGHT CONNECTORS TORSION BARS
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c. Remove the bolts, then remove the trunk lid hinge.
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)

NOTE: Take care not to hit the rear window when removing the bolts TRUNK LID HINGE
5.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the connectors are connected properly. Adjust the torsion bars fore or aft with the torsion bar assembly tool as shown.
Make sure the trunk lid locks securely. Make sure the trunk lid opens properly. Adjust the trunk lid alignment (see page 20-102).
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Trunk Lid
Adjustment
NOTE: Before adjusting the trunk lid, loosen each bolt slightly. 1. 2. 3. 4. Adjust the trunk lid hinges right and left, as well as fore and aft, by using the elongated holes. Turn the trunk lid edge cushions, as necessary, to make the trunk lid fit flush with the body at the rear and side edges. Adjust the fit between the trunk lid and the trunk lid opening by moving the striker. After adjustment, tighten each bolt securely. TRUNK LID EDGE CUSHION TRUNK LID HINGE TRUNK LID TRUNK LID
TRUNK LID HINGE
6 x 1.0 mm
STRIKER TRUNK LID EDGE CUSHION
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
NOTE: Move the striker right or left until it's centered in the trunk lid latch as shown. STRIKER
NOTE: When adjusting the striker, remove the rear trim panel (see page 20-61), then remove the striker cover. 9.8 N-m(1.0kgf-n 7.2 Ibf-ft)
6 x 1.0 mm
TRUNK LID LATCH
STRIKER
STRIKER COVER
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Trunk Lid Weatherstrip

Replacement
When installing the trunk lid weatherstrip, align it with the alignment mark on the trunk lid opening. NOTE: Make sure there are no wrinkles in the weatherstrip. Check for water leaks.
License Plate Trim

Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the license plate trim. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the trunk lid. Remove the license plate. 1. Open the trunk lid, then remove the trunk lid trim (see page 20-100). Remove the trunk lid latch (see page 20-116). Remove the nuts. NOTE: Take care not to drop the nuts inside the trunk lid.
ALIGNMENT MARK 2. 3.
5 x 0.8 mm
TRUNK LID WEATHERSTRIP
TRUNK LID WEATHERSTRIP
LICENSE PLATE TRIM 4. Remove the screw and detach the clip, then remove the license plate trim. SCREW
STEEL CORE ALIGNMENT MARK Inside LICENSE PLATE TRIM
BODY
CLIP 5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If damaged, replace the clip.
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Front Grille
Replacement
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the front grille and front bumper. 1. 2. Open the hood, then remove the screws. Detach the clips on each side with a flat tip screwdriver, then remove the front grille.
Roof Molding
Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove the roof molding. When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the body. The steel core in the roof molding cannot be restored to it original shape once it is bend. Replace the roof molding when the steel care is bend. Starting at the front, carefully pry the roof molding.
SHOP TOWEL
HOLES.
CLIPS WINDSHIELD SIDE MOLDING
CLIP
ROOF MOLDING
ROOF MOLDING
To install the roof molding, remove any damaged clips from the roof molding, install new clips on the body, then install the roof molding on the car. NOTE: Take care not to damage the windshield side molding. Make sure the roof molding is installed securely.
FRONT GRILLE
STEEL CORE 3. 4. If necessary, disassemble the front grille. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips.
ROOF MOLDING
CLIP
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Retainers and Weatherstrip

Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the retainers. NOTE: Take care not to bend the retainers and not to scratch the body. If the weatherstrip is damaged, replace it with a new one. 1. Detach the clips from the center pillar lower portion, and remove the screws while peeling back the weatherstrip. Remove the center pillar retainer by sliding it down, then remove the center pillar molding from the weatherstrip. 3. Detach the clips, then pull away the weatherstrip. NOTE: Remove the bonded portions of the weatherstrip gradually. If the old weatherstrip is to be reinstalled, scrape off the old butyl tapes, then clean the weatherstrip surface with alcohol. Glue the new butyl tapes on the weatherstrip.
2.
FRONT PILLAR RETAINER
WEATHERSTRIP
CENTER PILLAR MOLDING
WEATHERSTRIP CENTER PILLAR

RETAINER
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Retainers and Weatherstrip

4. Remove the screws, and detach the retainer grommet and clip, then remove the front pillar retainer. 5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips. Make sure the weatherstrip is installed on the retainers properly. If necessary, adjust the position of the door glass (see page 20-24). Check for water leaks. Roof side section: FRONT PILLAR RETAINER Retainer grommet removal: 1) Remove or loosen the screw. 2) Place the screw in the retainer grommet again (do not screw it in) and press it down. 3) Pull the screw with the retainer grommet and retainer out of the body.
RETAINER
RETAINER GROMMET
SCREW
GLASS
WEATHERSTRIP FRONT PILLAR RETAINER Center pillar section: CENTER PILLAR MOLDING FRONT GLASS REAR GLASS
WEATHER STRIP NOTE: When installing the retainer, align the retainer grommet and clip with the body holes. CENTER PILLAR RETAINER
WEATHERSTRIP
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Door and Side Moldings

Replacement
CAUTION: When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage. NOTE: To remove the front side molding, remove the inner fender (see page 20-112). To remove the door molding, remove the door panel and plastic cover (see pages 20-4, 20-15). Take care not to bend the door moldings. Before reassembling, clean the door bonding surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the surface.
FRONT SIDE MOLDING Adhesive areas.
FRONT DOOR MOLDING Removal, page 20-108 Installation, page 20-110
REAR DOOR MOLDING Removal, page 20-108 Installation, page 20-110
DOOR MOLDING
FRONT SIDE MOLDING
CLIP
CLIP
ADHESIVE TAPE Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips.
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Door Moldings
Removal
To following materials and tools are required to repair the door moldings. NOTE: Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Materials: (Reference) Stripe remover 3M 08907 Stripe adhesive remover 3M 08908 Adhesive tape 3M Super Automotive Attachment Tape Tools: Protective tape Knife or Cutter Sponge or Shop towel Infrared dryer STRIPE REMOVER Film Putty knife Alcohol 4. Apply the stripe remover evenly to the bonding surface of the door.
5.
Cover the bonding surface of the door with a film, then heat to 104 - 122F (40 - 50C) for 5 - 1 0 minutes with an infrared dryer. NOTE: Use care when heating to prevent deformation of the door.
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the door moldings. 1. Remove the door panel and pull back the plastic cover (see pages 20-4, 20-15). Apply protective tape on and around the molding. DOOR MOLDING
2.
PROTECTIVE TAPE 3. Release the clips from inside of the door. Carefully cut the adhesive tape with a knife or cutter while pulling the edge of the molding away from the door as shown. NOTE: Take care not to scratch or bend the molding. KNIFE
ADHESIVE TAPE
FILM
6.
Scrape the adhesive tape with a putty knife. ADHESIVE TAPE
PUTTY KNIFE DOOR MOLDING
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7. For removal of adhesive tape residue, follow-up with stripe adhesive remover, then scrape the adhesive tape with a putty knife. 8. Peel off the protective tape, then clean the bonding surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. NOTE: Make sure the bonding surface is kept free or water, oil and grease. 9. Remove the clips from the molding. NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips. 10. Apply the stripe remover evenly to the bonding surface of the molding.
12. Scrape the adhesive tape with a putty knife.

PUTTY KNIFE
ADHESIVE TAPE
STRIPE REMOVER
13. For removal of adhesive tape residue, follow-up with stripe adhesive remover, then scrape the adhesive tape with a putty knife. 14. Peel off the protective tape, then clean the molding with a sponge dampened in alcohol. NOTE: Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil and grease.
DOOR MOLDING
11. Wrap the molding with film, then heat to 104- 122F (40 - 50C) for 5 - 10 minutes with an infrared dryer. NOTE: Use care when heating to prevent deformation of the molding.
FILM
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Door Moldings
Installation
1. Glue the new adhesive tape to the moldings as shown.
FRONT DOOR MOLDING
CLIP
REAR DOOR MOLDING CLIP
DOOR MOLDING NEW ADHESIVE TAPE Thickness: 1.2 mm (0.05 in)
5 mm (0.2 in)
2. 3.
Install the clips on the molding. Heat the bonding surface of the door and door molding with an infrared dryer. Door: 104- 140F (40-60C) Molding: 68 - 86F (20 - 30C) NOTE: Use care when heating to prevent deformation of the molding.
4. Align the molding with the clip locations and set the molding. Lightly push on the molding until its edge is fully seated on the adhesive tape. NOTE: Do not spray water on the molding within the first 24 hours after installation. 5. Reassemble all removed parts.
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Side Sill Panel

Replacement
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the body. SIDE CLIP
LOWER CLIP SIDE SILL PANEL NOTE: Loosen the screw, then remove the lower clip using a clip remover. SIDE CLIP Remove the side clips from the body by turning them 45
SIDE CLIP
INNER FENDER
NOTE: When removing the side sill panel, the side clips will stay in the body.
SIDE SILL PANEL Remove the lower clips, then remove the side sill panel by sliding it forward.
To install the side sill panel, remove the side clips from the body, install them on the side sill panel, then install the side sill panel on the car. NOTE: Take care not to twist the side sill panel. If necessary, replace any damaged side and lower clips.
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Inner Fender, Fenderwell Trim, Fuel Pipe Protector and Rear Air Outlet
Replacement
NOTE: If necessary, replace any damaged clips. Inner fender:
SPLASH GUARD
INNER FENDER
Fenderwell trim/Fuel pipe protector/Rear air outlet: NOTE: Take care not to bend the fenderwell trim. Before installing the fenderwell trim, clean the body bonding surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease or water from getting on the surface. To remove the fuel pipe protector, first remove the rear wheel (see section 18). To remove the rear air outlet, first remove the rear bumper (see page 20-96).
FUEL PIPE PROTECTOR FENDERWELL TRIM
HOOKS
STEEL CORE
REAR AIR OUTLET
REAR AIR OUTLET
ADHESIVE
FENDERWELL TRIM
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Opener Cables
Replacement
NOTE: When removing the clips, use a clip remover. Take care not to bend the opener cables. Hood opener cable:
NOTE: Refer to page 20-10a of the '96-98 Acura 3.2TL Service Manual supplement forfor the differences on this page for the 3.2TL.
GROMMET HOOD OPENER CABLE
NOTE: Open the hood, and remove the front grille (see page 20-104).
HOOD RELEASE HANDLE (see page 20-114)
Trunk lid/Fuel lid opener cable: NOTE: Remove the following parts from the left side of the vehicle, then pull the carpet back, as necessary (see page 20-62). Front and rear door sill moldings (see page 20-57). Center pillar lower trim (see page 20-57). Rear seat cushion and rear seat-back (see page 20-85). Rear seat side trim (see page 20-58). Spare tire lid and trunk side trim (see page 20-60). Trunk lid trim (see page 20-100).
HOOD LATCH (see page 20-114)
To fuel lid latch and trunk lid latch.
FUEL LID OPENER CABLE
WIRE HARNESS
TRUNK LID OPENER CABLE TRUNK LID/FUEL LID OPENER (see page 20-115)
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Opener Cables
TRUNK LID LATCH (see page 20-116)
TRUNK LID OPENER CABLE
WIRE HARNESS
FUEL LID OPENER CABLE
FUEL LID LATCH (see page 20-115)
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure each opener cable is routed and connected properly. Make sure the hood, trunk lid and fuel lid open properly.
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Opener and Latch

Replacement
NOTE: Take care not to bend the opener cables. Hood release handle:
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m
(1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
HOOD OPENER CABLE (see page 20-113)
HOOD RELEASE HANDLE Remove the left kick panel (see page 20-63). Hood latch:
NOTE: Refer to page 20-11a of the '96-98 Acura 3.2TL Service Manual supplement forfor the differences on this page for the 3.2TL.
NOTE: If necessary, remove the cover.
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m
(1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
HOOD LATCH Remove the front grille (see page 20-104).
HOOD OPENER CABLE COVER Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the opener cable is connected properly. Make sure the hood locks securely. Make sure the hood opens properly.
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Trunk lid/Fuel lid opener:
Fuel lid latch:
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
Pry the lid.
FUEL LID After installing, check for a flush fit with the body. OPENER COVER
FUEL LID LATCH Pull the rear edge of the left trunk side trim back (see page 20-60).
OPENER LOCK CYLINDER
Loosen the bolt.
OPENER TRUNK LID OPENER CABLE (see page 20-113) To trunk lid latch. To fuel lid latch. FUEL LID OPENER CABLE (see page 20-113) FUEL LID LATCH Remove the fuel lid latch by turning it 90
FUEL LID OPENER CABLE (see page 20-113)
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the opener cable is connected properly. Make sure the trunk lid and fuel lid open properly.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the opener cable is connected properly. Make sure the fuel lid locks securely. Make sure the fuel lid opens properly.
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Opener and Latch

Trunk lid latch/Lock cylinder: 1. 2. Remove the trunk lid trim (see page 20-100). Remove the bolts, and disconnect the connector. TRUNK LID LATCH 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) CYLINDER TRIM
6 x 1.0 mm
5.
Disconnect the connector, remove the bolt, then pull the lock cylinder and cylinder trim out.
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) CONNECTOR
6 x 1.0 mm
LOCK CYLINDER CONNECTOR
6. 3. Disconnect the cylinder rod from the lock cylinder. CYLINDER

ROD
Pull the cylinder rod out. CYLINDER ROD
LOCK CYLINDER 4. Pull the trunk lid latch out, disconnect the cylinder rod, opener cable and connector, then remove the latch. CYLINDER ROD CONNECTOR
7.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Grease the trunk latch. Make sure the trunk lid locks securely. Make sure the trunk lid opens properly. Make sure the connector is connected properly.
TRUNK LID LATCH
TRUNK LID OPENER CABLE
TRUNK LID LATCH
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Hood Latch
Replacement
NOTE: Take care not to bend the opener cables. 1. Open the hood, and remove the front bulkhead cover (see page 20-6). Remove the hood latch, and disconnect the hood opener cable and hood latch switch connector.
2.
HOOD LATCH SWITCH CONNECTOR
HOOD OPENER CABLE
HOOD LATCH
3.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the hood opener cable is connected properly. Make sure the hood locks securely.
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Windshield Wiper Arms/Windshield Wiper Linkage

Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the windshield wiper linkage. NOTE: Take care not to scratch the hood and body. 1. 2. Open the hood. Remove the windshield wiper arms, then remove the hood seal and air scoop.
NUT 10 x 1.25 mm
4.
Separate the windshield wiper linkage and windshield wiper motor. NOTE: Scribe a line across the link and windshield wiper linkage to show the original adjustment.
6 x 1.0 mm
8 N-m (0.8 kgf-m 5.8 Ibf-ft) SPRING WASHER
18 N-m (1.8 kgf-m, 13 Ibf-ft)
WINDSHIELD WIPER ARMS LINK NUTS 18 N-m (1.8 kgf-m, 13 Ibf-ft)

10 x 1.25 mm
WINDSHIELD WIPER LINKAGE
LINK WINDSHIELD WIPER LINKAGE HOOD SEAL AIR SCOOP WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR
3.
Disconnect and detach the connector, then remove the windshield wiper linkage assembly. WINDSHIELD WIPER LINKAGE ASSEMBLY
5.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the connector is connected properly. If necessary, replace any damaged clips. Install the windshield wiper arms properly as described on page 20-119. Check the windshield wiper motor operation. Grease the moving parts.
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)

PIN
6 x 1.0 mm
(Body side)
GROMMET
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Washer Reservoir
Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the washer reservoir. 1. 2. Open the hood. Remove the bolt, then pull out the washer filler.
Washer Tube
Replacement
1. 2. Open the hood. Remove the hood seal covers from the hood.
RIGHT HOOD SEAL COVER

6 x 1.0 mm
LEFT HOOD SEAL COVER
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
WASHER RESERVOIR WASHER FILLER 3. Pull away the inner fender as necessary (see page 20-112). Disconnect the washer tube and windshield washer motor connector. 3.
HOOD
WASHER TUBE
Detach the clips, and remove both windshield washer nozzles. Disconnect the washer tube at the L-joint, then remove the washer tube.
4.
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) WASHER RESERVOIR
6 x 1.0 mm
INNER FENDER
Push here. WINDSHIELD WASHER NOZZLE
WASHER TUBE
CONNECTOR HOOD HINGE
WINDSHIELD WASHER MOTOR
WASHER TUBE
5. 6.
Remove the bolt, then remove the washer reservoir. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Make sure the windshield washer motor connector and washer tube are connected properly. Check the windshield washer motor operation.
To washer motor. 4.
L-JOINT
WASHER TUBE
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. NOTE: Take care not to pinch the washer tube. If necessary, replace any damaged clips. Adjust the aim of the windshield washer nozzles.
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Wiper Arms/Washer Nozzles

Adjustment
1. Adjust the wiper arms so that their park positions match the illustration.
View from front to rear Center line
27 mm (1.1 in)
Upper edge of air scoop
44 mm
(1.7 in)
WINDSHIELD WIPER ARMS 2. By inserting a tack and moving it as necessary, adjust the washer nozzles so that they aim at positions A, B, C, and D shown in the illustration. NOTE: Refer to page 20-14a of the '96-98 Acura 3.2TL Service Manual supplement for the differences on this page for the 3.2TL. NOTE: The fluid jets should hit within a 50 mm (2.0 in) radius around each of points A, B, C, and D.
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Emblems
Installation
Apply the emblems where shown. NOTE: Before applying, clean the trunk lid surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the surface. Attachment Points (Reference): Unit: mm (in)
ACURA EMBLEM
2.5TL EMBLEM ACURA EMBLEM
TRUNK LID
2.5 TL EMBLEM
TRUNK LID
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Sub-frame
Sub-frame Torque Sequence: CAUTION: After loosening the sub-frame mounting bolts, be sure to replace them with new ones.
To body
REAR CROSS BEAM
SPECIAL BOLTS 1 2x 1.25 mm 54 N-m (5.5 kgf-m, 40 Ibf-ft) Replace.
To body To body
FRONT BEAM
SPECIAL BOLT 14 x 1.5 mm 95 N-m (9.7 kgf-m, 70 Ibf-ft) Replace.
10 x 1.25 mm 38 N-m (3.9 kgf-m, 28 Ibf-ft)
LOWER PLATE
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Frame Repair Chart
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POINT y
POINT v
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Mirror
Mirror Holder Replacement
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the mirror holder. 1. Carefully pry out the mirror holder with a flat tip screwdriver as shown. PIVOT JOINT
PIN
Mirror Visor and Mirror Cover Replacement

1. 2. Remove the mirror holder. Push the mirror base forward, then remove the screws. Detach the hook, then remove the mirror visor.
3.
JOINT PIN MIRROR HOLDER SHOP TOWEL 2. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. MIRROR BASE
MIRROR COVER
MIRROR VISOR
4.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
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Moonroof
Closing Force and Opening Drag Check
1.
2.
Remove the headliner (see page 20-61). Closing force check: Have an assistant hold the switch to close the glass while you measure force required to stop it. Attach a spring scale as shown. Read the force as soon as the glass stops moving, then immediately release the switch and spring scale. CAUTION: When using a spring scale, protect the leading edge of the glass with a shop towel. Closing Force: 200 - 290 N (20 - 30 kgf, 44 - 66 Ibf)
4.
Opening drag check: Measure the effort required to open the glass using a spring scale as shown. CAUTION: When using a spring scale, protect the leading edge of the glass with a shop towel. SHOP TOWEL
SHOP TOWEL
GLASS SPRING SCALE
5.
GLASS
SPRING SCALE
If the load is over 40 N (4 kgf, 9 Ibf), check: The side clearance and glass height adjustment (see pages 20-49, 20-50). For broken or damaged sliding parts (see pages 20-53, 20-54). If any sliding parts are damaged, replace them.
3.
If the force in not within specification, remove the moonroof motor (see page 20-52), then check: The gear portion and the inner cable for breakage and damage. If the gear portion is broken, replace the motor. If the inner cable is damaged, remove the frame (see page 20-52), and replace the cable assembly (see page 20-53). The moonroof motor (see section 23). If the motor fails to run or doesn't turn smoothly, replace it. The opening drag.
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Windshield/Rear Window
Index
NOTE: The numbers after the part names show the quantities of the parts used. Windshield: RUBBER DAM RIGHT SIDE MOLDING UPPER MOLDING UPPER CLIP A, 4 White
UPPER CLIP B, 5 White LEFT SIDE MOLDING SIDE CLIP A, 8, Purple RETAINER, 8 Orange SIDE CLIP B, 2 White
WINDSHIELD DEFOGGER SEAL Installation, page 20-129 SPACER 2 (Body side)
SIDE CLIP C, 4 Green
Rear Window: UPPER SPACER (Glass side)
REAR WINDOW Removal, page 20-129 Installation, page 20-131
TERMINAL BASE COVER UPPER FASTENER, 2 (Self-adhesive-type, glass side) UPPER FASTENER, 2 (Self-adhesive-type, body side)
REAR WINDOW MOLDING
TERMINAL COVER LOWER SPACER (Glass side)
RUBBER DAM
LOWER FASTENER, 2 (Self-adhesive-type, glass side)
LOWER COVER
LOWER FASTENER, 2 (Self-adhesive-type, body side)
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Defogger Seal
Installation
Glue the defogger seal to the inside face of the windshield as shown. NOTE: Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied.
BLACK CERAMIC EDGE DEFOGGER SEAL
676 mm (26.6 in)
676 mm (26.6 in)
DEFOGGER SEAL RUBBER DAM
BLACK CERAMIC EDGE
WINDSHIELD
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Rear Window
Removal
CAUTION: Wear gloves to remove and install the rear window. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Do not damage the rear window defogger grid lines, window antenna grid lines, and terminals. 1. To remove the rear window, first remove the: Trunk lid (see page 20-100) Rear seat cushion and seat-back (see page 20-85) Rear pillar trim (see page 20-59) Rear shelf (see page 20-59) Pull down the rear of the headliner (see page 20-61). CAUTION: Take care not to bend the headliner excessively. 3. Disconnect the rear window defogger connector from each side, remove the terminal cover, then disconnect the window antenna connector.
2.
TERMINAL COVER
WINDOW ANTENNA CONNECTOR
TERMINAL COVER
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER CONNECTOR
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Rear Window
Removal (cont'd)
4. Remove the clips, then remove the lower cover. NOTE: Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 6. Apply protective tape to along the edge of the body as shown. Using as awl, make a hole through the rubber dam and adhesive from inside the car. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood. PIANO WIRE ADHESIVE REAR WINDOW PROTECTIVE TAPE SPACER PROTECTIVE TAPE RUBBER
DAM
REAR WINDOW
CLIP
PIANO WIRE
PROTECTIVE TAPE
LOWER COVER
7.
ADHESIVE With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire back and forth in a sawing motion, and carefully cut through the rubber dam and adhesive around the entire rear window. CAUTION: Hold the piano wire as close to the rear window as possible to prevent damage to the body. PIANO WIRE REAR WINDOW
5.
Remove the molding. NOTE: If the molding removal is difficult to remove, cut it with a knife. MOLDING
GLASS
ADHESIVE
REAR WINDOW
8.
Carefully remove the rear window.
MOLDING
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Installation
1. Using a knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth with a knife to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire rear window opening flange. NOTE: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding Mask off surrounding surfaces before painting. Remove the upper spacer and rubber dam from the body. 2. Clean the body bonding surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. NOTE: After cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the surface. 3. If the old rear window is to be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all traces of old adhesive and the rubber dam, then clean the rear window surface with alcohol where new adhesive is to be applied. 5. NOTE: Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil and grease. CAUTION: Avoid setting the rear window on its edges; small chips may later develop into cracks. NOTE: Clean the shadowed area. Glue the upper fastener and lower fastener to the body as shown. A: Upper fastener locations, 2 B: Lower fastener locations, 2 ALIGNMENT MARK GLASS MOLDING JOINT 4. Glue the molding around the edge of the rear window as shown.
REAR WINDOW
CLEANING WIDTH
REAR WINDOW
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Rear Window
Installation (cont'd)
6. Glue the rubber dam, upper fastener, lower fastener, upper spacer, lower spacer and terminal base cover to the inside face of the rear window, as shown. 7. Set the rear window in the opening, then center it. Make alignment marks across the rear window and body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. ALIGNMENT MARK SPACER REAR WINDOW ALIGNMENT MARKS UPPER FASTENER, 2
ALIGNMENT MARKS RUBBER

DAM
LOWER FASTENER,
8. 9.
Remove the rear window. With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer around the edge of the rear window as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth. NOTE: Do not apply body primer to the rear window, and do not get body and glass primer sponges mixed up. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the rear window properly, causing a leak after the rear window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surface. : Apply glass primer here.
9.5 mm (0.38 in)
ALIGNMENT MARK
TERMINAL BASE COVER
All around.
RUBBER
DAM
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10. With a sponge, apply a light coat of body primer to
the original adhesive remaining around the rear window opening flange. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes. NOTE: Do not apply glass primer to the body, and be careful not to mix up glass and body primer sponges. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. : Apply body primer here.
13. Pack adhesive into the cartridge without air pockets to ensure continuous delivery. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive around the edge of the rear window as shown. NOTE: Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer.
ADHESIVE
RUBBER
DAM
MOLDING
GLASS
11. Thoroughly mix the adhesive and hardener together on a glass or metal plate with a putty knife. NOTE: Clean the plate with a sponge and alcohol before mixing. Follow the instructions that came with the adhesive. 12. Before filling a cartridge, cut the end of the nozzle as shown. 14. Use suction cups to hold the rear window over the opening, align it with the alignment marks made in step 7, and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the rear window until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close the doors until the adhesive is dry.
Cut nozzle end as shown.
10 mm (0.39 in)
7 mm (0.27 in)
REAR WINDOW
SUCTION CUPS
ALIGNMENT MARK
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Rear Window
Installation (cont'd)
15. Scrape or wipe the excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. NOTE: To remove adhesive from a painted surface or the rear window, use a soft shop towel dampened with alcohol. 16. Install the lower cover.
REAR WINDOW CLIP
LOWER COVER
17. Let the adhesive dry for at least one hour, then spray water over the rear window and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas and let the rear window dry, then seal with sealant. NOTE: Let the car stand for at least four hours after rear window installation. If the car has to be used within the first four hours, it must be driven slowly. 18. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for two to three days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).
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Special Tools
Ref. No.
Tool Number *07JGG-001010A 07SAZ-001000A
Description Belt Tension Gauge Backprobe Set
Qty
Page Reference 22-78, 22-24a 22-42, 22-45, 22-46
Included in the Belt Tension Gauge Set, 07TGG - 001000A.
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Illustrated Index
HEATER/EVAPORATOR/BLOWER UNIT HEATER UNIT Replacement, page 22-63 Heater Core Replacement, page 22-65
EVAPORATOR
Replacement, page 22-58 Overhaul, page 22-60 BLOWER UNIT Replacement, page 22-61 Overhaul, page 22-62
SERVICE VALVE (HIGH-PRESSURE SIDE)
RECEIVER/DRYER EXPANSION VALVE Replacement, page 22-58
CONDENSER Replacement, page 22-79
SERVICE VALVE (LOW-PRESSURE SIDE)
A/C PRESSURE SWITCH When the refrigerant pressure is below 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi) due to refrigerant leakage or above 3,200 kPa (32 kgf/cm2, 455 psi) due to refrigerant blockage, the A/C pressure switch opens the circuit to the A/C switch and stops the air conditioning to protect the compressor.
COMPRESSOR Replacement, page 22-72 Clutch Inspection, page 22-75 Clutch Overhaul, page 22-76 Relief Valve Replacement, page 22-77
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Wiring/Connector Locations
NOTE: Refer to page 22-3a of the '96-98 Acura 3.2TL Service Manual supplement for the differences on this page for the 3.2TL.
BLOWER MOTOR RELAY (Located on the under-dash relay box) Test, page 22-57
HEATER VALVE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE CONNECTOR
RADIATOR FAN CONTROL MODULE (Located under right side of dash) Test, page, 22-48
SUNLIGHT SENSOR Replacement, page 22-55 Test, page 22-55
MAIN WIRE HARNESS COMPRESSOR CLUTCH RELAY CONNECTOR Wire colors: WHT, RED, YEL/BLK, RED/BLU Test, page 22-57
RADIATOR FAN CONNECTOR
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CONNECTOR
A/C PRESSURE SWITCH CONNECTOR
OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR Replacement, page 22-54 Test, page 22-54 CONDENSER FAN RELAY CONNECTOR Wire colors: WHT, YEL/WHT, WHT/GRN, LT GRN/YEL Test, page 22-57
CONDENSER FAN CONNECTOR
RADIATOR FAN RELAY CONNECTOR Wire colors: WHT, YEL, WHT/BLU and LT GRN/YEL Test, page 22-57
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SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service.
RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR Replacement, page 22-52 Test, page 22-52 AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR Replacement, page 22-50 Test, page 22-50
MODE CONTROL MOTOR Replacement, page 22-51 Test, page 22-51
BLOWER MOTOR HIGH RELAY Test, page 22-57 IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR Replacement, page 22-53 Test, page 22-53
HEATER SUB-HARNESS
BLOWER MOTOR CONNECTOR POWER TRANSISTOR Test, page 22-56
CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT Replacement, page 22-49 Bulb Replacement, page 22-49
EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR Test, page 22-56
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Description
Outline
The air conditioner system removes heat from the passenger compartment by circulating refrigerant through the system as shown below. High-temperature/ high-pressure gas Suction and compression COMPRESSOR Less moisturized low-pressure vapor Absorption of heat EVAPORATOR EXPANSION VALVE HEATER/EVAPORATOR/BLOWER UNIT Radiation of heat CONDENSER More liquidified low-pressure vapor High-temperature/ high-pressure liquid High-temperature/ high-pressure liquid
Traps debris, and removes moisture
RECEIVER/DRYER
RECEIVER LINE CONDENSER LINE
SUCTION LINE COMPRESSOR RECEIVER/DRYER CONDENSER

DISCHARGE LINE
This vehicle uses HFC-134a (R-134a) refrigerant which does not contain chlorofluorocarbons. Pay attention to the following service items: Do not mix refrigerants CFC-12 (R-12) and HFC-134a (R-134a). They are not compatible. Use only the recommended polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) refrigerant oil (ND-OIL 8) designed for the R-134a compressor. Intermixing the recommended (PAG) refrigerant oil with any other refrigerant oil will result in compressor failure. All A/C system parts (compressor, discharge line, suction line, evaporator, condenser, receiver/dryer, expansion valve. O-rings for joints) have to be proper for refrigerant R-134a. Do not confuse with R-12 parts. Use a halogen gas leak detector designed for refrigerant R-134a. R-12 and R-134a refrigerant servicing equipment are not interchangeable. Use only a Recovery/Recycling/Charging System that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to service R-134a air conditioning systems. Always recover the refrigerant R-134a with an approved Recovery/Recycling/Charging System before disconnecting any A/C fitting.
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Troubleshooting
Symptom Chart
For electrical malfunctions which are indicated by the self-diagnostic system, refer to self-diagnosis function (see next page). NOTE: Check the engine coolant level, and allow the engine to warm up before troubleshooting. Any abnormality must be corrected before continuing the test. Because of the precise measurements needed, use a multimeter when testing. Before performing any troubleshooting procedures check: Fuses *' No. 17 (30 A), *1 No. 34 (20 A), *1 No. 38 (20 A), *1 No. 39 (10 A), *2 No. 4 (*3), *2 No. 7 (7.5 A), *2 No. 8 (7.5 A) Grounds No. G101, G301, G401, G403, G404 Cleanliness and tightness of all connectors *': In the under-hood fuse/relay box *2: In the under-dash fuse/relay box *3: No.4 (15 A): '95 and '96 models : No.4 (20 A): '97 and '98 models Symptom Check the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). No heater and A/C in either manual or AUTO modes. Mode control motor does not run, or one or more modes are inoperative. Recirculation control doors do not change between FRESH and RECIRCULATE. Radiator fan does not run at all (but condenser fan runs with the A/C on). Condenser fan does not run at all (but radiator fan runs with the A/C on). Both fans (radiator and condenser) do not run for engine cooling, but they both run with the A/C on. Both fans do not run with the A/C on (2.5L) or at all (3.2L). Compressor clutch does not engage. A/C system does not come on (compressor and both fans). Remedy Perform the procedures in the flowchart (see page 22-28). Perform the procedures in the flowchart (see page 22-29). Perform the procedures in the flowchart (see page 22-30). Perform the procedures in the flowchart (see page 22-32).
Perform the procedures in the flowchart (see page 22-34, 2.5L). (see page 22-10a, 3.2L) Perform the procedures in the flowchart (see page 22-37, 2.5L). (see page 22-13a, 3.2L)
Perform the procedures in the flowchart (see page 22-40).

Perform the procedures in the flowchart (see page 22-41, 2.5L) (22-18a, 3.2L).
Perform the procedures in the flowchart (see page 22-43).

Perform the procedures in the flowchart (see page 22-46, 2.5L) (22-16a, 3.2L).
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Troubleshooting
Self-diagnosis Function
The climate control unit has a self-diagnosis function. Running the Self-diagnosis Function Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then press both the AUTO and OFF buttons at the same time. While the buttons are pressed, indicator lights A, B, C, D, E and F respectively will come on to indicate a faulty component.
A, B, C
AUTO BUTTON
OFF BUTTON
Indicator
A B C D E F ON OFF
Component with problem In-car temperature sensor Outside air temperature sensor Sunlight sensor Evaporator temperature sensor Air mix control motor Blower motor
Possible cause Faulty sensor, open or short circuit Faulty sensor, open or short circuit Faulty sensor, open or short circuit Faulty sensor, open or short circuit Open or short circuit, obstructed door, faulty motor Open or short circuit, faulty motor
See page
22-12 22-14 22-16 22-18
22-20
22-22 or 22-24 (2.5L), 22-6a (3.2L)
NOTE: In case of multiple problems, the respective indicator lights will come on. If indicator lights A, B, C, D, and E come on at the same time, there may be an open in the common ground wire of the sensors. Resetting the Self-diagnosis Function Turning the ignition switch OFF will cancel the self-diagnosis function. After service work, run the self-diagnosis function once again to check that there is no other problem.
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Climate Control Unit Input/Output Signals

CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT CONNECTORS 12P CONNECTOR 20P CONNECTOR
WIRE SIDE OF FEMALE TERMINALS 12P CONNECTOR
20P CONNECTOR
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Troubleshooting
Radiator Fan Control Module Input Tests
NOTE: Perform the following tests with the radiator fan control module 8P connector connected, the ignition switch ON (II), and the A/C switch OFF. If you find the cause of a problem, correct it before you continue.
RADIATOR FAN CONTROL MODULE 8P CONNECTOR WIRE SIDE OF FEMALE TERMINALS
Terminal No.
4
Wire color
BLK
Test condition Check for voltage to body ground. Check for battery voltage:
Desired results There should be less than one volt. There should be battery voltage.
Corrective action if desired results are not obtained Repair open to body ground. Check No. 39 (10 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box; if OK, repair open in the WHT/GRN wire. Check No. 4* fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box; if OK, repair open in the BLK/YEL wire. Check No. 8 (7.5 A) fuse in the underdash fuse/relay box; if OK, repair open in the YEL/BLK wire. Replace the radiator fan control module. Before you connect the new radiator fan control module, disconnect both fan relays. Check for continuity between the YEL/WHT (or YEL) wire and ground, using the 20 k scale on your ohmmeter. There should be no continuity. If there is continuity, the new radiator fan control module will be damaged when you connect it.
WHT/GRN Check for battery voltage: Ignition switch - ON (II) Check for battery voltage: Ignition switch - ON (II) Check for battery voltage: Ignition switch - ON (II) Check for battery voltage: Ignition switch - ON (II)
BLK/YEL
YEL/BLK YEL/WHT
YEL
Connect to body ground: Ignition switch - ON (II)
Condenser fan and radiator fan should come on.
LT GRN/YEL
Check for an open in the LT GRN/YEL wire between the radiator fan control module and the condenser fan relay or the radiator fan relay. If OK, check for an open in the YEL/WHT wire between the radiator fan control module and the condenser fan relay, or the YEL wire between the radiator fan control module and the radiator fan relay. If OK, test the condenser fan relay or the radiator fan relay. Faulty engine coolant temperature (ECT) switch B, short to body ground, or faulty radiator fan control module. * No.4 (15 A): '95 and '96 models No.4 (20 A): '97 and '98 models
Check for voltage.

5
WHT/GRN
Approx. 11 V (engine coolant temperature below 207F [97C])
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Climate Control Unit

Replacement
1. Remove the dashboard center panel together with the climate control unit, then disconnect the connectors. CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the dashboard center panel and the dashboard. Do not pull between the clips: Otherwise, the panel may break.
Bulb Replacement
CAUTION: Before replacing bulbs, discharge the static electricity (which accumulated on you when you removed the climate control unit) by touching the door striker or other metal parts of the body. Do not touch the electronic components on the printed circuit board in the climate control unit. 1. 2. Remove the climate control unit (see previous column). Carefully remove the four self-tapping screws and the rear cover.
REAR COVER
DASHBOARD CENTER PANEL
3.
Remove the bulb(s) with a flat-tip screwdriver.
2.
Remove the four self-tapping screws and the climate control unit.
CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT
4.
Install in the reverse order of removal. Make note of the following items. NOTE: Do not kink or pull on the wires between the control unit and printed circuit board. After installation, operate the climate control unit to see whether it works properly. Run the self-diagnosis function to confirm that there are no problems in the system.
3.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
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Air Mix Control Motor

Replacement
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then set the temperature control dial on MAX COOL. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Test
1. Disconnect the 5P connector from the air mix control motor. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the air mix control motor and ground the No. 5 terminal; the air mix control motor should run, and stop at HOT. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the air mix control motor should run, and stop at COOL. NOTE: If the air mix control motor does not run, remove it, then check the air mix control linkage and doors for smooth movement. If they move smoothly, replace the air mix control motor. 3. Measure the resistance between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals. It should be approximately 6 k 20%. Measure the resistance between the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. It should be approx. 1.2 k 20% at MAX HOT and approximately 4.8 k 20% at MAX COOL
2. 2. Remove the glove box (see section 20). 3. Remove the wire harness clip, and disconnect the 5P connector from the air mix control motor. Unlock the clips from the air mix control rods, then remove the three self-tapping screws and the air mix control motor.
4.
AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR
4.
AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR
CLIP
CLIP
WIRE HARNESS CLIP RODS
5. 6.
Remove the rod from the air mix control motor. Install in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the air mix control motor runs smoothly.
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Mode Control Motor

Replacement
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then set the mode control switch on VENT. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the dashboard (see section 20). Disconnect the 7P connector from the mode control motor. Unhook the clip from the mode control rod, then remove the three self-tapping screws, the mode control motor and the flange collars.
3.
Test
1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the mode control motor. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal, and ground the No. 7 terminal. CAUTION: Never connect the battery in the opposite direction. Using a jumper wire, connect the No. 7 terminal individually to the No. 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 terminals in that order. Each time the connection is made, the mode control motor should run smoothly and stop. NOTE: If the mode control motor does not run when jumping the first terminal, jump that terminal again after jumping the other terminals. The mode control motor is OK if it runs when jumping the first terminal again.
2. 2. 3.
4.
CLIP
ROD
MODE CONTROL MOTOR
FLANGE COLLARS
MODE CONTROL MOTOR
4.
5. 6.
Remove the rod from the mode control motor. Install in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the mode control motor runs smoothly.
If the mode control motor does not run in step 2, remove it, then check the mode control linkage and doors for smooth movement. If they move smoothly, replace the mode control motor.
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Recirculation Control Motor

Replacement
1. Remove the wire harness clips, the three self-tapping screws and the pipe cover.
Test
1. Disconnect the 4P connector from the recirculation control motor. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal, and ground the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals; the recirculation control motor should run smoothly. CAUTION: Never connect the battery in the opposite direction. 3. Disconnect the No. 2 or No. 4 terminals from ground; the recirculation control motor should stop at FRESH or RECIRCULATE. NOTE: Don't cycle the recirculation control motor for a long time.
2.
PIPE COVER
WIRE HARNESS CLIPS
RECIRCULATION
CONTROL MOTOR
2.
Disconnect the 4P connector from the recirculation control motor.
3. Remove the three self-tapping screws, the recirculation control motor and the flange collar.
4.
If the recirculation control motor does not run in step 1, remove it, then check the recirculation control linkage and doors for smooth movement. If they move smoothly, replace the recirculation control motor.
RECIRCULATION
CONTROL MOTOR FLANGE COLLAR
4. Install in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the recirculation control motor runs smoothly.
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In-car Temperature Sensor

Replacement
1. Remove the dashboard center panel (see page 22-49). Remove the in-car temperature sensor from the dashboard, then disconnect the 2P connector and the air hose.
Test
Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the in-car temperature sensor with the specifications shown in following graph; resistance should be within specifications. NOTE: Check for change in resistance by heating or cooling the sensor with a hair drier, etc. CAUTION: The sensor uses a thermistor which can be damaged if high current is applied during testing. Therefore, use a circuit tester with an output of 1 mA or less at the 20 k range.
2.
AIR HOSE
IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
3.
Install in the reverse order of removal. NOTE: Be sure to connect the air hose securely.
TEMPERATURE
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Outside Air Temperature Sensor

Replacement
1. Disconnect the 2P connector from the outside air temperature sensor. Release the lock, and remove the outside air temperature sensor.
Test
Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the outside air temperature sensor with the specifications shown in following graph; resistance should be within specifications. NOTE: Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure resistance. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for change in resistance. CAUTION: The sensor uses a thermistor which can be damaged if high current is applied during testing. Therefore, use a circuit tester with an output of 1 mA or less at the 20 k range.
2.
OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR LOCK
OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
3.
TEMPERATURE
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Sunlight Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the sunlight sensor from the left tweeter speaker grille, and disconnect the 2P connector. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the left tweeter speaker grille.
Test
Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure the voltage between the terminals with the (+) probe on the No. 1 terminal and the (-) probe on the No. 2 terminal with the 2P connector connected. Voltage should be; 3.7 0.2 V or more with the sensor out of direct sunlight. 3.6 0.2 V or less with the sensor in direct sunlight. NOTE: The voltage will not change under the light of a flashlight or a fluorescent lamp.
SUNLIGHT SENSOR
SUNLIGHT SENSOR
2.
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Evaporator Temperature Sensor

Test
Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the evaporator temperature sensor with the specifications shown in following graph; resistance should be within specifications. 1. 2. Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure resistance.
Power Transistor
Test
1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the power transistor.
2. Pull out the No. 1 (RED/BLK) terminal from the connector. 3. Connect a 1.2 - 3.4 watt bulb as shown, then reconnect the 3P connector to the power transistor. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check that the blower motor runs.
Pour hot water on the sensor, and check for change in resistance. 4.
CAUTION: The sensor uses a thermistor which can be damaged if high current is applied during testing. Therefore, use a circuit tester with an output of 1 mA or less at the 20 k range.
EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
CAUTION: To avoid a loose or disconnected terminal, be careful not to damage the locking tab when disconnecting and connecting the terminal. Insulate the No. 1 (RED/BLK) terminal from the body until the testing is completed.
12V 1.2-3.4 W BULB
TERMINAL SIDE OF MALE TERMINALS
No. 1 (RED/BLK) No. 3 (BLU/RED)
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Relays
Test
There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals, and there should be no continuity when power is disconnected. Blower motor high relay
Blower motor relay
Radiator fan relay Condenser fan relay Compressor clutch relay
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Heater Valve
Test
1. Disconnect the 2P connector from the heater valve control solenoid valve. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the heater valve control solenoid valve.
2.
HEATER VALVE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
3.
Disconnect the #2 vacuum hose from the intake manifold, then connect a vacuum pump to the #2 vacuum hose. HEATER VALVE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
#2 VACUUM HOSE
ROD
HEATER VALVE 4. Connect battery power to the No. 2 terminal of the heater valve control solenoid valve, and ground the No. 1 terminal. Check that the rod of the heater valve is pulled toward the diaphragm when vacuum is applied to the heater valve control solenoid with a vacuum pump. Check that the rod is returned to the original position when power is disconnected.
5.
6.
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Evaporator
Replacement
1. Recover the refrigerant with a Recovery/Recycling/ Charging System (see page 22-71). Remove the dashboard lower cover, the knee bolster and the glove box (see section 20).
2.
3. Remove the ECM (see section 11). 4. Remove the ABS control unit and the radiator fan control module together with the bracket, then remove the TCM (see section 14). Remove the security control unit. Disconnect the connectors from the power transistor, blower motor high relay, evaporator temperature sensor, blower motor and the heater sub-harness, then remove the blower motor and heater subharness connectors from the brackets. Disconnect the passenger's airbag harness clip.
5.
BLOWER MOTOR HIGH RELAY BLOWER MOTOR CONNECTOR
POWER TRANSISTOR
EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CONNECTOR HEATER SUB-HARNESS CONNECTOR
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6.
Remove the wire harness clips, the three self-tapping screws and the pipe cover.
8. Disconnect the drain hose, and remove the seven self-tapping screws. Then pull the evaporator out of the front passengers side to remove it. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the evaporator fins when removing the evaporator.
PIPE COVER
7.
WIRE HARNESS CLIPS
Remove the expansion valve covers, then disconnect the suction line and unbolt the expansion valve from the evaporator. DRAIN HOSE NOTE: Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination. EXPANSION VALVE COVERS SUCTION LINE 32 N-m (3.3 kgf-m, 24 Ibf-ft) EVAPORATOR
9. Install in the reverse order of removal. Make note of the following items. If you're installing a new evaporator, add refrigerant oil (ND-OIL 8} (see page 22-66). Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (NDOIL 8) before installing them. NOTE: Be sure to use the right O-rings for HFC134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. EXPANSION VALVE 23 N-m (2.3 kgf-m, 17 Ibf-ft) Be careful not to damage the evaporator fins when installing the evaporator. Install the expansion valve capillary tube with the capillary tube in contact with the suction line directly, and wrap it with tape. NOTE: Make sure there is no foreign matter stuck between the capillary tube and the suction line. Make sure that there is no air leakage. Charge the system (see page 22-82), and test its performance (see page 22-68).
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Evaporator
Overhaul
1. Pull the evaporator temperature sensor out from the evaporator fins. Remove the two self-tapping screws and the power transistor. If necessary, remove the blower motor high relay. Remove the six self-tapping screws from the housings. Carefully separate the housings, then remove the evaporator. UPPER HOUSING NOTE: Be sure to use the right O-rings for HFC134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. Reinstall the evaporator temperature sensor to its original location. 6. Assemble in the reverse order of disassembly. Make note of following items. Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (NDOIL 8) before installing them.
2.
3. 4.
5.
BLOWER MOTOR HIGH RELAY Test, page 22-57
EVAPORATOR Blow dirt out of fins with compressed air. 115.5 mm (4.547 in) From outlet side
50 mm (2 in)
From bottom
EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR Test, page 22-56
LOWER HOUSING
POWER TRANSISTOR Test, page 22-56
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Blower Unit
Replacement
1. Remove the evaporator (see page 22-58). 2. Remove the mounting nut from the blower unit. NOTE: When removing the mounting nut, take care not to damage or bend the fuel pipes, brake pipes, etc. 4. Remove the mounting bolt, then remove the blower unit by moving it back and toward the right.
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
6 x 1.0 mm
BLOWER UNIT 5.
8 x 1.25 mm
If necessary, remove the three self-tapping screws, the recirculation control motor and the flange collar. RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR
12 N-m (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 Ibf-ft)
3.
Disconnect the connector from the recirculation control motor, and remove the self-tapping screw from the pipe clamp. PIPE CLAMP
FLANGE COLLAR
6.
Install in the reverse order of removal. Make note of the following items. Make sure that the recirculation control doors and linkage move smoothly without binding. After reinstalling the recirculation control motor, make sure the recirculation control motor runs smoothly (see page 22-52). Make sure that there is no air leakage.
RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR
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Blower Unit
Overhaul
1. 2. Remove the air filter. Remove the three self-tapping screws and the seven clamps from the housings. Carefully separate the housings. Remove the two self-tapping screws and the blower motor. 5. Assemble in the reverse order of disassembly. Make note of following items. Make sure that the recirculation control doors and linkage move smoothly without binding. When assembling, be sure to install the air hose of the blower motor to the housings as shown.
3. 4.
UPPER HOUSING
AIR HOSE BLOWER MOTOR
AIR FILTER
LOWER HOUSING
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Heater Unit
Replacement
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service. 1. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator (see section 10). Do not remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot; the engine coolant is under pressure and could severely scald you. 3. Remove the mounting nut and the heater valve, then disconnect the heater hoses from the heater unit. CAUTION: Engine coolant will damage paint. Quickly rinse any spilled engine coolant from painted surfaces. NOTE: Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain it into a clean drip pan.
8 x 1.25 mm 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft)
STEERING HANGER BEAM
8 x 1.25 mm 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft)
5.
Remove the seven mounting bolts and the steering hanger beam.
HEATER HOSE (OUTLET SIDE)
HEATER HOSE (INLET SIDE)
6.
CLAMPS
Remove the wire harness clips, the three self-tapping screws and the pipe cover.
HEATER VALVE
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
PIPE COVER
WIRE HARNESS CLIPS
4.
Remove the dashboard (see section 20).
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Heater Unit
7. Disconnect the connector from the recirculation control motor, then remove the self-tapping screw from the pipe clamp. PIPE CLAMP 9. Remove the clips from the right and left heater ducts, and the SRS main harness clips from the heater unit. Remove the three self-tapping screws, the six mounting bolts, the bracket and the heater unit.
6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
HEATER UNIT
RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR SRS MAIN HARNESS 8. Disconnect the connectors from the power transistor, blower motor high relay, evaporator temperature sensor, blower motor and the heater sub-harness, then remove the heater sub-harness connector from the bracket. BLOWER MOTOR HIGH RELAY BLOWER MOTOR CONNECTOR
6 x 1.0 mm
HEATER DUCTS
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
10. Install in the reverse order of removal. Make note of the following items. Apply sealant to the grommets. Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses. Make sure that the clamps are secure. Loosen the bleed bolt on the engine, and refill the radiator and the coolant reservoir with the proper engine coolant mixture (see section 10). Tighten the bleed bolt when all the trapped air has escaped and engine coolant begins to flow from it (see section 10). Make sure that there is no air leakage.
POWER TRANSISTOR
EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CONNECTOR HEATER SUB-HARNESS CONNECTOR
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Heater Core Replacement

1. 2. 3. Remove the heater unit (see page 22-63). Remove the mode control motor (see page 22-51). Remove the two self-tapping screws and the left heater duct.
WIRE HARNESS CLIP
5.
Remove the wire harness clips, and the mode control arm with a flat-tip screwdriver as shown. Remove the five self-tapping screws and the left side cover.
LEFT SIDE COVER
WIRE HARNESS CLIP MODE CONTROL ARM
6.
Remove the two self-tapping screws and the heater core cover, then pull out the heater core. NOTE: Be careful not to bend the inlet and outlet pipes during heater core removal.
LEFT HEATER DUCT
4.
Remove the self-tapping screw and the left air duct.
HEATER CORE HEATER CORE COVER
7.
Install in the reverse order of removal. Make note of the following items. Make sure that the mode control doors and linkage move smoothly without binding. After reinstalling the mode control motor, make sure the mode control motor runs smoothly (see page 22-51).
LEFT AIR DUCT
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A/C Service Tips and Precautions
The air conditioner system uses HFC-134a (R-134a) refrigerant and polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) refrigerant oil*, which are not compatible with CFC-12 (R-12) refrigerant and mineral oil. Do not use R-12 refrigerant or mineral oil in this system, and do not attempt to use R-12 servicing equipment; damage to the air conditioner system or your servicing equipment will result. * DENSO ND-OIL8: P/N 38897 - PR7 - A01AH: 120 (4 fl-oz, 4.2 Imp-oz) P/N 38899 - PR7 - A01: 40 (1 1/3 fl-oz, 1.4 Imp-oz) Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove R-134a from the air conditioner system. CAUTION: Exposure to air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist can irritate eyes, nose and throat. Avoid breathing the air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioner systems should not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air. Some mixtures of air and R-134a have been shown to be combustible at elevated pressures and can result in fire or explosion causing injury or property damage. Never use compressed air to pressure test R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioner systems. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Always disconnect the negative cable from the battery whenever replacing air conditioning parts. Keep moisture and dust out of the system. When disconnecting any lines, plug or cap the fittings immediately; don't remove the caps or plugs until just before you reconnect each line. Before connecting any hose or line, apply a few drops of refrigerant oil to the O-ring. When tightening or loosening a fitting, use a second wrench to support the matching fitting. When discharging the system, use a R-134a refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Charging System; don't release refrigerant into the atmosphere. Add refrigerant oil after replacing the following parts: NOTE: To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils. Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately. Condenser ........................................ 25 (5/6 fl-oz, 0.9 Imp-oz) Evaporator ........................................ 50 (1 2/3 fl-oz, 1.8 Imp-oz) Line or hose ...................................... 20 (2/3 fl-oz, 0.7 Imp-oz) Receiver/Dryer ..................................... 15(1/2(fl-oz, 0.5 Imp-oz) Leakage repair ................................. 25 (5/6 fl-oz, 0.9 Imp-oz) Compressor ................................ For compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil drained from the removed compressor from 160 (5 1/3 fl-oz, 5.6 Imp-oz), and drain the calculated volume of oil from the new compressor: 160 (5 1/3 fl-oz, 5.6 Imp-oz) Volume of removed compressor = Volume to drain from new compressor. NOTE: Even if no oil is drained from the removed compressor, don't drain more than 50 (1 2/3 fl-oz, 1.8 Imp-oz) from the new compressor.
REMOVED NEW
COMPRESSOR
COMPRESSOR
SAME LEVEL
DRAINING VOLUME
160
(5 1/3 fl-oz, 5.6 Imp-oz)
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A/C System Torque Specifications
COMPRESSOR BRACKET IDLER PULLEY BRACKET
HEATER/EVAPORATOR/BLOWER UNIT
IDLER PULLEY COMPRESSOR RECEIVER PIPE
SUCTION HOSE
-RECEIVER/DRYER
CONDENSER PIPE
DISCHARGE HOSE CONDENSER
NOTE: When installing the compressor bracket, tighten the bolts on the oil pan first, then those on the cylinder block (see page 22-73). Suction hose to the compressor (6 x 1.0 mm)............................................................................ 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) Discharge hose to the compressor (6 x 1.0 mm)........................................................................ 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) Discharge hose to the condenser................................................................................................... 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft) Condenser pipe to the condenser.................................................................................................. 13 N-m (1.3 kgf-m, 9.4 Ibf-ft) Condenser pipe to the receiver/dryer........................................................................................... 13 N-m (1.3 kgf-m, 9.4 Ibf-ft) Receiver pipe to the receiver/dryer............................................................................................... 13 N-m (1.3 kgf-m, 9.4 Ibf-ft) Receiver pipe to the evaporator (6 x 1.0 mm)............................................................................. 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) Suction hose to the evaporator (6 x 1.0 mm)............................................................................. 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) Compressor to compressor bracket (8 x 1.25 mm)...................................................................... 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft) Compressor bracket to cylinder block (10 x 1.25 mm)................................................................. 49 N-m (5.0 kgf-m, 36 Ibf-ft) Idler pulley bracket to compressor bracket (8 x 1.25 mm).......................................................... 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft) Idler pulley to idler pulley bracket (8 x 1.25 mm)......................................................................... 44 N-m (4.5 kgf-m, 32 Ibf-ft)
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A/C System Service

Performance Test
The performance test will help determine if the air conditioner system is operating within specifications. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioner system. CAUTION: Exposure to air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist can irritate eyes, nose and throat. Avoid breathing the air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioner systems should not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air. Some mixtures of air and R-134a have been shown to be combustible at elevated pressures and can result in fire or explosion causing injury or property damage. Never use compressed air to pressure test R134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioner systems. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant Recover/Recycling/ Charging System to the vehicle, as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Insert a thermometer in the center vent outlet. Determine the relative humidity and air temperature. Test conditions: Avoid direct sunlight. Open hood. Open front doors. Set the temperature control dial on MAX COOL, the mode control switch on VENT and the recirculation control switch on RECIRCULATE. Turn the A/C switch on, and the fan switch on MAX. Run the engine at 1,500 rpm. No driver or passengers in vehicle After running the air conditioning for 10 minutes under the above test conditions, read the delivery temperature from the thermometer in the dash vent and the high and low system pressure from the A/C gauges.
Recovery/Recycling/Charging System
LOW-PRESSURE SIDE HIGH-PRESSURE SIDE
2.
3.
4.
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5.
To complete the charts: Mark the delivery temperature along the vertical line. Mark the intake temperature (ambient air temperature) along the bottom line. Draw a line straight up from the air temperature to the humidity. Mark a point one line above and one line below the humidity level (10% above and 10% below the humidity level). From each point, draw a horizontal line across the delivery temperature. The delivery temperature should fall between the two lines. Complete the low side pressure test and high side pressure test in the same way. Any measurements outside the line may indicate the need for further inspection.
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A/C System Service

Pressure Test Chart
NOTE: Performance Test is on page 22-68. Test results Discharge (high) pressure abnormally high Related symptoms After stopping compressor, pressure drops to about 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi) quickly, and then falls gradually. Reduced or no air flow through condenser Probable cause Air in system Remedy Recover, evacuate, and recharge with specified amount. Evacuation: see page 22-81 Charging: see page 22-82 Clean. Check voltage and fan rpm. Check fan direction. Restricted lines Replace the compressor.
Clogged condenser or radiator fins Condenser or radiator fan not working properly Restricted flow of refrigerant in system Faulty compressor discharge valve Faulty compressor seal Faulty expansion valve Moisture in system
Line to condenser is excessively hot. Discharge pressure abnormally low High and low pressures are balanced soon after stopping compressor. Low side is higher than normal. Outlet of expansion valve is not frosted, low pressure gauge indicates vacuum. Suction (low) pressure abnormally low Expansion valve is not frosted, and low-pressure line is not cold. Lowpressure gauge indicates vacuum. Discharge temperature is low, and the air flow from vents is restricted. Expansion valve is frosted. Receiver/dryer outlet is cool, and inlet is warm (should be warm during operation). Suction pressure abnormally high Low-pressure hose and check joint are cooler than the temperature around evaporator. Suction pressure is lowered when condenser is cooled by water. High and low pressure are equalized as soon as the compressor is stopped, and both gauges fluctuate while running. Suction and discharge pressures abnormally high Suction and discharge pressure abnormally low Reduced air flow through condenser.
Replace. Recover, evacuate, and recharge with specified amount. Replace the expansion valve.
Frozen expansion valve Faulty expansion valve Frozen evaporator Clogged expansion valve Clogged receiver/dryer
Run the fan with compressor off, then check A/C thermostat. Clean or replace. Replace.
Expansion valve open too long Loose expansion capillary tube Excessive refrigerant in system Faulty gasket Faulty high pressure valve Foreign particle stuck in high-pressure valve Clogged condenser or radiator fins Condenser or radiator fan not working properly Clogged or kinked low pressure hose parts Clogged high-pressure line
Repair or replace.
Recover, evacuate, and recharge with specified amount. Replace the compressor.
Clean condenser and radiator. Check voltage and fan rpm. Check fan direction. Repair or replace. Repair or replace.
Low-pressure hose and metal end areas are cooler than evaporator. Temperature around expansion valve is too low compared with that around receiver/dryer. Compressor clutch is dirty. Compressor bolt(s) are dirty. Compressor gasket is wet with oil.
Refrigerant leaks
Compressor shaft seal leaking Leaking around bolt(s) Gasket leaking
Replace the compressor. Tighten bolt(s) or replace compressor. Replace the compressor.
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Recovery
Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioner system. CAUTION: Exposure to air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist can irritate eyes, nose and throat. Avoid breathing the air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioner systems should not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air. Some mixtures of air and R-134a have been shown to be combustible at elevated pressures and can result in fire or explosion causing injury or property damage. Never use compressed air to pressure test R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioner systems. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/ Charging System to the vehicle, as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Measure the amount of refrigerant oil removed from the A/C system after the recovery process is completed. NOTE: Be sure to install the same amount of new refrigerant oil back into the A/C system before charging.
LOW-PRESSURE SIDE HIGH-PRESSURE SIDE
2.
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Compressor
Replacement
1. If the compressor is marginally operable, run the engine at idle speed, and let the air conditioner work for a few minutes, then shut the engine off. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Recover the refrigerant with a Recovery/Recycling/ Charging System (see page 22-71). Remove the intake air duct (see section 5). 8. Remove the four mounting bolts and the compressor.
2. 3.
8 x 1.25 mm
22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft)
4.
5. Remove the A/C compressor belt (see page 22-78). 6. Remove the connectors from the bracket, then disconnect the compressor clutch connector. Remove the bolt and the bracket. COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CONNECTOR COMPRESSOR
BRACKET
9.
Remove the four bolts and the suction service valve from the compressor.
25.5 N-m (2.6 kgf-m, 18.8 Ibf-ft)
7.
Remove the nuts, then disconnect the suction line and the discharge line from the compressor. NOTE: Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination. DISCHARGE LINE SUCTION LINE
SUCTION SERVICE VALVE
O-RING Replace.
6 x 1.0 mm
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7 Ibf-ft)
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10. If necessary, remove the three mounting bolts and the compressor bracket. NOTE: When installing, tighten the mounting bolts in the order of No. 1 through No. 3 and in two steps; first tighten temporarily, then torque to the specified tension after making sure that there is no clearance between the compressor bracket and its mounting face.
12. Install in the reverse order of removal. Make note of the following items. If you're installing a new compressor, drain all the refrigerant oil from the removed compressor, and measure its volume. Subtract the volume of drained oil from 160 (5 1/3 fl-oz, 5.6 Imp-oz); the result is the amount of oil you should drain from the new compressor (through the suction fitting). Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. NOTE: Be sure to use the right O-rings for HFC134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. Use refrigerant oil (ND-OIL 8) for R-134a DENSO piston type compressors only. To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils. Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately. Adjust the A/C compressor belt (see page 22-78). Charge the system (see page 22-82), and test its performance (see page 22-68).
10 x 1.25 mm
49 N-m (5.0 kgf-m,
36 Ibf-ft) COMPRESSOR BRACKET
10 x 1.25 mm
49 N-m (5.0 kgf-m, 36 Ibf-ft)
11. If necessary, remove the idler pulley and the idler
pulley bracket. Check the idler pulley bearing for play and drag. Replace it with a new one if it's noisy or has excessive play or drag.
IDLER PULLEY BRACKET
IDLER PULLEY
8 x 1.25 mm
22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft)
8 x 1.25 mm 44 N-m (4.5 kgf-m, 32 Ibf-ft)
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Compressor
Illustrated Index
CENTER BOLT
PRESSURE PLATE Inspection, page 22-75 SHIM(S) SNAP RING B Replace.
PULLEY Inspection, page 22-75
SNAP RING A Replace. FIELD COIL Inspection, page 22-75
COMPRESSOR (Do not disassemble)
O-RING Replace. SUCTION SERVICE VALVE
O-RING Replace.
RELIEF VALVE Replacement, page 22-77
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Clutch Inspection
Check the plated parts of the pressure plate for color changes, peeling or other damage. If there is damage, replace the clutch set. Check the pulley bearing play and drag by rotating the pulley by hand. Replace the clutch set with a new one if it is noisy or has excessive play/drag. Check resistance of the field coil. Field Coil Resistance: 3.6 0.2 ohms at 68 F (20C) If resistance is not within specifications, replace the field coil.
PULLEY
Measure the clearance between the pulley and the pressure plate all the way around. If the clearance is not within specified limits, the pressure plate must be removed and shims added or removed as required, following the procedure on page 22-76. Clearance: 0.5 0.15 mm (0.020 0.006 in) NOTE: The shims are available in three thicknesses: 0.1 mm, 0.3 mm and 0.5 mm.
PRESSURE PLATE
PULLEY
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Compressor
Clutch Overhaul
1. Remove the center bolt while holding the pressure plate.
CENTER BOLT 13.2 N-m (1.35 kgf-m, 9.76 Ibf-ft) A/C CLUTCH HOLDER Commercially available Robinair: P/N 10204 Kent-Moore: P/N J37872
3.
Remove the snap ring B with snap ring pliers, then remove the pulley. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the pulley and compressor during removal/installation. Once the snap ring B is removed, replace it with a new one.
SNAP RING B Replace.
PULLEY
2.
Remove the pressure plate and shim(s), taking care not to lose the shim(s).
PRESSURE PLATE
SHIM(S)
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4.
Remove the screw from the field coil ground terminal. Remove the snap ring A with snap ring pliers, then remove the field coil. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the field coil and compressor during removal/installation. Once the snap ring A is removed, replace it with a new one.
SNAP RING A
Replace.
FIELD COIL
5.
Install in the reverse order of removal. Make note of the following items. Install the field coil with the wire side facing down (see above). Clean the pulley and compressor sliding surfaces with non-petroleum solvent. Make sure the snap rings are fully seated in the groove. Apply locking agent to the threads of the center bolt, and tighten it securely. Make sure that the pulley turns smoothly after it's reassembled.
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Relief Valve Replacement

1. Remove the relief valve and the O-ring. NOTE: Do not let the compressor oil run out. Make sure that no foreign matter enters the system.
O-RING Replace.
RELIEF VALVE
13.2 N-m (1.35 kgf-m, 9.76 Ibf-ft)
2. Clean the mating surfaces. 3. Replace the O-ring with a new one at the relief valve, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (ND-OIL 8) before installing it. NOTE: To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils. Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container, and seat it to avoid moisture absorption. Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately. 4. 5. Install and tighten the relief valve. Charge the system (see page 22-82), and test its performance (see page 22-68).
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A/C Compressor Belt

Adjustment
Deflection Method 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 Ibf), and measure the deflection between the A/C compressor and the crankshaft pulley. A/C Compressor Belt Used Belt: 9.0 - 11.0 mm (0.35 - 0.43 in) New Belt: 5.0 - 6.5 mm (0.20 - 0.26 in) NOTE: If there are cracks or any damage evident on the belt, replace it with a new one. "Used belt" means a belt which has been used for five minutes or more. "New belt" means a belt which has been used for less than five minutes. 2. 3. Loosen the center nut of the idler pulley. Turn the adjusting bolt to get proper belt tension, then retighten the center nut. 2. 4. Recheck the deflection of the A/C compressor belt. 3. Turn the adjusting bolt to get proper belt tension, then retighten the center nut. Tension Gauge Method 1. Attach the special tool to the A/C compressor belt as shown below, and measure the tension of the belt. A/C Compressor Belt Used Belt: 390 - 540 N (40 - 55 kgf, 88 - 120 Ibf) New Belt: 830-1,030 N (85 - 105 kgf, 190 - 230 Ibf) NOTE: If there are cracks or any damage evident on the belt, replace it with a new one. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the belt tension gauge. "Used belt" means a belt which has been used for five minutes or more. "New belt" means a belt which has been used for less than five minutes. Loosen the center nut of the idler pulley.
ADJUSTING BOLT
4. Recheck the tension of the A/C compressor belt. BELT TENSION GAUGE 07JGG-001010A
CENTER NUT
8 x 1.25 mm
44 N-m (4.5 kgf-m, 32 Ibf-ft)
A/C
COMPRESSOR BELT
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Condenser
Replacement
1. Recover the refrigerant with a Recovery/Recycling/ Charging System (see page 22-71). Remove the front grille (see section 20). Remove the bolt, the reservoir hose bracket and the coolant reservoir. NOTE: Do not disconnect the reservoir hose from the coolant reservoir and the radiator. COOLANT RESERVOIR BRACKET CONDENSER LINE RECEIVER/ DRYER 5. Remove the condenser fan relay from the receiver/dryer bracket. Disconnect the receiver line from the receiver/dryer and the condenser line from the condenser, then remove the two bolts and the receiver/dryer. Disconnect the discharge line from the condenser. NOTE: Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination. 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
6 x 1.0 mm
2. 3.
(1.3 kgf-m, 9.4 Ibf-ft) 4. Remove the power steering clamp and the wire harness clip from the condenser fan shroud. Disconnect the condenser fan connector. Loosen the two lower mounting bolts, then remove the two upper mounting bolts and the condenser fan shroud. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the radiator fins when removing the condenser fan shroud.
6 x 1.0 mm
13 N-m
RECEIVER LINE
CONDENSER FAN RELAY
22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft) DISCHARGE LINE 6. Remove the four bolts and the two radiator upper mount brackets.
6 x 1.0 mm
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) WIRE HARNESS CLIPS CONDENSER FAN SHROUD UPPER MOUNT BRACKETS
6 x 1.0 mm 8 N-m
(0.8 kgf-m, 6 Ibf-ft)
CLAMP CONDENSER FAN CONNECTOR WIRE HARNESS CLIPS

6 x 1.0 mm
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Condenser
7. Remove the two mounting bolts, then lift out the condenser as shown. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the radiator and condenser fins when removing the condenser. 8. Install in the reverse order of removal. Make note of the following items. If you're installing a new condenser, add refrigerant oil (ND-OIL 8) (see page 22-66). Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (NDOIL 8) before installing them. NOTE: Be sure to use the right O-rings for HFC134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. Be careful not to damage the radiator and condenser fins when installing the condenser and the condenser fan shroud. Be sure to install the condenser mount cushions securely into the holes. Charge the system (see page 22-82), and test its performance (see page 22-68).
CONDENSER
6 x 1.0 mm
9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)
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A/C System Service

Evacuation
Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioner system. CAUTION: Exposure to air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist can irritate eyes, nose and throat. Avoid breathing the air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioner systems should not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air. Some mixtures of air and R-134a have been shown to be combustible at elevated pressures and can result in fire or explosion causing injury or property damage. Never use compressed air to pressure test R134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioner systems. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. When an A/C System has been opened to the atmosphere, such as during installation or repair, it must be evacuated using a R-134a refrigerant Recovery/ Recycling/Charging System. (If the system has been open for several days, the receiver/dryer should be replaced, and the system should be evacuated for several hours.) Connect a R-134a refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/ Charging System to the vehicle, as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: If low-pressure does not reach more than 93.3 kPa (700 mmHg, 27.6 in.Hg) in 15 minutes, there is probably a leak in the system. Partially charge the system, and check for leaks (see Leak Test).
LOW-PRESSURE SIDE
HIGH-PRESSURE SIDE
2.
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A/C System Service

Charging
Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioner system. CAUTION: Exposure to air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist can irritate eyes, nose and throat. Avoid breathing the air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. Refrigerant capacity: 750 g (26.5 oz) Recovery/Recycling/Charging System
CAUTION: Do not overcharge the system; the compressor will be damaged. Connect a R-134a refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Charging System to the vehicle, as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions.
HIGH-PRESSURE SIDE
LOW-PRESSURE SIDE
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Leak Test
Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioner system. CAUTION: Exposure to air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist can irritate eyes, nose and throat. Avoid breathing the air conditioner refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioner systems should not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air. Some mixtures of air and R-134a have been shown to be combustible at elevated pressures and can result in fire or explosion causing injury or property damage. Never use compressed air to pressure test R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioner systems. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/ Charging System to the vehicle, as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Be sure to install the same amount of new refrigerant oil back into the A/C system before charging. 2. Open high-pressure valve to charge the system to the specified capacity, then close the supply valve, and remove the charging system couplers. Refrigerant capacity: 750 3. g (26.5 oz)
LOW-PRESSURE SIDE
HIGH-PRESSURE SIDE
Check the system for leaks using a R-134a refrigerant leak detector with an accuracy of 14 g (0.5 oz) per year or better. If you find leaks that require the system to be opened (to repair or replace hoses, fittings, etc.), recover the system according to the Recovery Procedure on page 22-71. After checking and repairing leaks, the system must be evacuated (see System Evacuation on page 22-81).
4.
5.
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Special Tools
Ref. No.
Tool Number 07GAC - SE0020A 07JGG-001010A 07LAJ - PT3020A 07PAZ-0010100
Description Fuel Sender Wrench Belt Tension Gauge Test Harness SCS Service Connector
Qty
Page Reference 23-122

23-104 (2.5L) or 23-89 (3.2L)
23-118, 23-119
23-84 (2.5L) or 23-74 (3.2L)
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Troubleshooting
Tips and Precautions
Before Troubleshooting Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. Check the alternator belt tension. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with grease (except waterproof connectors). All connectors have push-down release type locks. Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals are in place and not bent. Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. Always reinstall plastic covers.
BENT TERMINAL
LOCKING TAB
LOCKING TAB
Check for loose retainer and rubber seals. Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket.
RETAINER
RUBBER SEAL
RETAINER
The backs of some connectors are packed with grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it.
LOCKING PAWL ON OTHER Pull to HALF OF disengage CONNECTOR
BRACKET
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Troubleshooting
Tips and Precautions (cont'd)
Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down.
Face open end down
Seat grommets in their grooves properly.
NOT GOOD
Handling Wires and Harnesses Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks.
Testing and Repairs Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described in this manual. If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector).
Slip pliers under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip.
Use a probe with a tapered tip.
SNAP-RING PLIERS
After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts.
Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals.
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Five-step Troubleshooting
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to verify the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area.
Wire Color Codes

The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT .............................White YEL ............................... Yellow BLK .............................. Black BLU .............................. Blue GRN ............................. Green RED .............................. Red ORN ............................. Orange PNK.............................. Pink BRN .............................. Brown GRY.............................. Gray PUR .............................. Purple LT BLU ......................... Light Blue LT GRN ........................ Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power feed through the circuit components to ground. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit operation, identify one or more possible causes of the problem. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on the fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
WHT/BLK
4.
5.
NOTE: Different wires with the same color in the same system have been given number suffixes to distinguish them (for example, YEL1 and YEL2 are not the same).
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Relay and Control Unit Locations

Engine Compartment
UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX POWER WINDOW RELAY
UNDER-HOOD ABS FUSE/RELAY BOX
ABS PUMP MOTOR RELAY HEADLIGHT RELAY TAILLIGHT RELAY
DIMMER RELAY
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Engine Compartment (cont'd)
INTERMITTENT WIPER RELAY Wire colors: BLU/YEL, GRN/YEL, BLK, GRN/BLK and BLU/WHT A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH RELAY Wire colors: RED/BLU, RED, YEL/BLK and WHT
CONDENSER FAN RELAY Wire colors: LT GRN/YEL, WHT/GRN, YEL/WHT and WHT
RADIATOR FAN RELAY Wire colors: LT GRN/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL and WHT
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Dashboard
PGM-FI MAIN RELAY
INTERLOCK CONTROL UNIT
CRUISE CONTROL UNIT STARTER CUT RELAY Wire colors: BLK/GRN, BLK/GRN, YEL/GRN and BLK/WHT
DASH LIGHTS BRIGHTNESS CONTROLLER (Has built-in control unit)
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER RELAY
SRS UNIT
TURN SIGNAL/ HAZARD RELAY
UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX
INTEGRATED CONTROL UNIT
CIGARETTE LIGHTER RELAY
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Dashboard (cont'd)
ABS FAIL-SAFE RELAY ('97-98 models) ABS FRONT FAIL-SAFE RELAY ('95 - 96 models)
FOG LIGHT RELAY ABS REAR FAIL-SAFE RELAY ('95 - 96 models) UNDER-DASH RELAY BOX
HORN RELAY
BLOWER MOTOR HIGH RELAY
BLOWER MOTOR RELAY
LOW BEAM CUT RELAY (Canada)
POWER MIRROR DEFOGGER RELAY (Canada)
ECM
DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS CONTROL UNIT (Canada)
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CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT
RADIATOR FAN CONTROL MODULE
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE (TCM)
ABS CONTROL UNIT ('95 -97 models) KEYLESS DOOR LOCK CONTROL UNIT ('98 model)
SECURITY CONTROL UNIT
ABS CONTROL UNIT ('98 model)
MOONROOF OPEN RELAY Wire colors: GRY, GRN/YEL, GRN, YEL and BLK
MOONROOF CLOSE RELAY Wire colors: GRY/RED, GRN/RED, GRN, YEL and BLK
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Door
POWER DOOR LOCK CONTROL UNIT
POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH (Has built-in control unit)
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Battery
Test
Battery fluid (electrolyte) contains sulfuric acid. It may cause severe burns if it gets on your skin or in your eyes. Wear protective clothing and a face shield. If electrolyte gets on your skin or clothes, rinse it off with water immediately. If electrolyte gets in your eyes, flush it out by splashing water in your eyes for at least 15 minutes; call a physician immediately. A battery gives off hydrogen gas. If ignited, the hydrogen will explode and could crack the battery case and splatter acid on you. Keep sparks, flames, and cigarettes away from the battery. Overcharging will raise the temperature of the electrolyte. This may force electrolyte to spray out of the battery vents. Follow the charger manufacturer's instructions, and charge the battery at a proper rate. Use either a JCI or Bear ARBST tester, and follow the manufacturer's procedures. If you don't have one of these computerized testers, follow this conventional test procedure: To get accurate results, the temperature of the electrolyte must be between 70F (21C) and 100F (38C). Check For Damage If the case is cracked or the posts are loose, replace the battery.
Check Indicator EYE Color If the indicator shows low electrolyte, add distilled water if possible.
EYE Indicates OK
EYE Indicates LOW CHARGE
Test Load Capacity (#1) Apply 300 amp load for 15 seconds to remove surface charge. Allow 15 seconds recovery period. Apply test load (see Test Load Chart). Record voltage at the end of 15 seconds.
Stays above 9.6 volts; battery is OK.
Drops below 9.6 volts.
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Charge on High Setting (40 amps) Charge until EYE shows charge is OK; plus an additional 30 minutes to assure full charge. NOTE: If the battery charge is very low, it may be necessary to bypass the charger's polarity protection circuitry. If the EYE does not show charge is OK within three hours, the battery is no-good; replace it. Write down how long the battery was charged.
Test Load Capacity (#2) Apply 300 amp load for 15 seconds to remove surface charge. Allow 15 seconds recovery period. Apply test load (see Test Load Chart). Record voltage at the end of 15 seconds.
Stays above 9.6 volts; battery is OK.
Drops below 9.6 volts; battery is no-good.
70D23L-MF
BATTERY CODE
TEST LOAD CHART Use the test load or 1/2 the cold cranking amps (CCA) printed on the label on the top of the battery. If neither is indicated, use the information below: BATTERY CODE
70
COLD CRANKING AMPS (CCA)

440
LOAD (amps)
220
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Power Relays
Relay Test
NOTE: See page 23-189 for turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type: 1. Check for continuity between the terminals. There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. ABS pump motor relay
Radiator fan relay Condenser fan relay A/C compressor clutch relay
Blower motor high relay Cigarette lighter relay Fog light relay Horn relay ABS front fail-safe relay ('95-96 models) ABS rear fail-safe relay ABS fail-safe relay ('97 - 98 models) Blower motor relay Power mirror defogger relay (Canada and '98 USA) Taillight relay Power window relay
Starter cut relay
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Headlight relay Rear window defogger relay
Five-terminal type: 1. Check for continuity between the terminals. There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 5 terminals. There should be continuity between the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Normally-closed Type: 1. Check for continuity between the terminals. There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected.
Dimmer relay
Intermittent wiper relay
Low beam cut relay (Canada)
Moonroof open relay Moonroof close relay
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Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box

Removal/Installation
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service. Removal: 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least three minutes. '95 - 96 models: Connect the short connectors (RED) to the airbag side of the connectors. Front Passenger's Side: Remove the glove box. NOTE: Before removing the glove box, remove the glove box damper (see section 20). Disconnect the front passenger's airbag 3P connector from the SRS main harness, then connect the short connector (RED) to the front passenger's airbag 3P connector. SHORT CONNECTOR (RED) 3. SRS MAIN HARNESS
2.
Driver's Side: Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then remove the short connector (RED) from the panel. Disconnect the 2P connector between the driver's airbag and cable reel (see section 24).
DRIVER'S AIRBAG
FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG 3P CONNECTOR 4. CABLE REEL 2P CONNECTOR 5. Remove the driver's foot rest (see section 20). Remove the dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.
ACCESS PANEL
DRIVER'S AIRBAG 2P CONNECTOR KNEE BOLSTER
DASHBOARD LOWER COVER
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6.
Remove the left front door sill molding and the left kick panel.
8.
Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors, and remove the under-dash fuse/relay box. NOTE: To disconnect the SRS main harness 2P connector from the under-dash fuse/relay box, see section 24.
LEFT KICK PANEL

LEFT FRONT DOOR SILL MOLDING
CLIPS
Installation: 1. Connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal. NOTE: To reconnect the SRS main harness 2P connector, see section 24. 2. '95 - 96 models: Reconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector to the cable reel 2P connector, and reinstall the access panel on the steering wheel. '95 - 96 models: Remove and properly store the short connector (RED), then reconnect the front passenger's airbag connector (and reinstall the glove box). Reconnect the battery positive cable, then the negative cable. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. Confirm that all systems work properly.
3. 7. Remove the two mounting bolts, and pull the underdash fuse/relay box away from the left kick panel. 4.
UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX
5.
6.
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Ignition Switch
Test
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service. 1. Remove the dashboard lower cover and knee bolster. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
7P CONNECTOR
KNEE BOLSTER
DASHBOARD LOWER COVER 2. Remove the left front door sill molding and the left kick panel. Disconnect the switch harness 7P connector from the under-dash fuse/relay box. 7P CONNECTOR
3.
WIRE SIDE OF FEMALE TERMINALS
5.
If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, check for a bad connection between the switch and switch harness. If the connection is OK, replace the switch. If the connection isn't OK, repair as necessary, and recheck. If continuity checks still do not agree with the table, replace the switch.
LEFT KICK PANEL
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Steering Lock Replacement

SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service. Removal: 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least three minutes. Remove the dashboard lower cover and knee bolster. 4. Remove the steering column covers. STEERING COLUMN UPPER COVER
2.
3.
STEERING COLUMN LOWER COVER
5.
Disconnect the connectors from the switch.
SWITCH HARNESS
KNEE BOLSTER
DASHBOARD LOWER COVER
IGNITION SWITCH 7P CONNECTOR 7P CONNECTOR
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Ignition Switch
Steering Lock Replacement (cont'd)
6. Remove the column holder mounting bolts and nuts. Installation: 1.
16 N-m
Install the new ignition switch without the key inserted. Loosely tighten the new shear bolts. Insert the ignition key, and check for proper operation of the steering wheel lock and that the ignition key turns freely. Tighten the shear bolts until the hex heads twist off.
(1.6 kgf-m, 12 Ibf-ft)
2. 3.
4.
SHEAR BOLT
COLUMN HOLDER 7. 8.
38 N-m
(3.9 kgf-m, 28 Ibf-ft) TWIST-OFF PORTION
Lower the steering column assembly. Center-punch each of the two shear bolts, and drill their heads off with a 5 mm (3/16 in) drill bit. CAUTION: Do not damage the switch body when removing the shear bolts. 5. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets.
9.
Remove the shear bolts from the switch body, then remove the steering lock assembly.
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Electrical Switch Replacement

SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least three minutes. Remove the dashboard lower cover and knee bolster (see page 23-67). Remove the steering column covers (see page 23-67). Disconnect the connectors from the switch. 6. Remove the column holder mounting bolts and nuts (see page 23-68). 7. Lower the steering column assembly. 8. Center-punch each of the two shear bolts, and drill their heads off with a 5 mm (3/16 in) drill bit (see page 23-68). CAUTION: Do not damage the switch body when removing the shear bolts. 9. Remove the shear bolts from the switch body, then remove the steering lock assembly. 10. Remove the three screws, and replace the electrical switch.
2.
3.
4. 5.
SWITCH HARNESS
ELECTRICAL SWITCH
IGNITION SWITCH 7P CONNECTOR
7P CONNECTOR
11. Install in the reverse order of removal (see page 23-68 for steering lock installation).
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Starting System
CRUISE CONTROL UNIT
SECURITY CONTROL UNIT (Located behind glove box) Input Test, page 23-283
BATTERY Test, page 23-60
STARTER CUT RELAY Wire colors: BLK/GRN, BLK/WHT YEL/GRN and BLK/GRN Test, page 23-63
A/T GEAR POSITION SWITCH Test, page 23-146 Replacement, section 14 STARTER Test, page 23-72 Solenoid Test, page 23-73 Replacement, page 23-74 Overhaul, page 23-75 Reassembly, page 23-79
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Starting System
Starter Test
NOTE: The air temperature must be between 59 and 100F (15 and 38C) before testing. Recommended Procedure: Use a starter system tester. Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Test and troubleshoot as described. Alternate Procedure: Use following equipment: Ammeter, 0 - 400 A Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt) Tachometer, 0 - 1,200 rpm Hook up a voltmeter and ammeter as shown. 2. With the shift lever in or , turn the ignition switch to START (III). The starter should crank the engine. If the starter does not crank the engine, go to step 3. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to "Check for Wear and Damage" on the next page. Check the battery, battery positive cable, ground, starter cut relay, security control unit, and the wire connections for looseness and corrosion. Test again. If the starter still does not crank the engine, go to step 4. Unplug the connector (BLK/WHT wire and solenoid terminal) from the starter. Make sure the shift lever is in or , then connect a jumper wire from the battery positive (+) terminal to the solenoid terminal. The starter should crank the engine.
S (SOLENOID) TERMINAL
3.
4.
NEGATIVE TERMINAL
NOTE: After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the ECM to clear any codes (see section 11). Check the Starter Engagement 1. Disconnect the 4P connector from the ignition coil.
IGNITION COIL
BLK/WHT WIRE
SOLENOID TERMINAL WIRE
If the starter still does not crank the engine, remove it, and diagnose its internal problem. If the starter cranks the engine, go to step 5 and continue the test. 5. Check the ignition switch (see page 23-66).
6. Check the starter cut relay (see page 23-63). 7. 8. 9. Check the A/T gear position switch (see page 23-146). Check the security control unit (see page 23-283). Check for an open in the BLK/GRN wire between the ignition switch and starter cut relay, and check for an open in the BLK/WHT wire between the starter cut relay and starter.
4P CONNECTOR
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Check for Wear and Damage The starter should crank the engine smoothly and steadily. If the starter engages, but cranks the engine erratically, remove it, and inspect the starter drive gear and torque converter ring gear for damage. Check the drive gear overrunning clutch for binding or slipping when the armature is rotated with the drive gear held. If the clutch is damaged, replace the clutch assembly. Check Cranking Voltage and Current Draw Cranking voltage should be no less than 8.5 volts. Current draw should be no more than 380 amperes. If cranking voltage is too low, or current draw too high, check for: Dead or low battery Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Starter armature dragging Shorted armature winding Excessive drag in engine Check Cranking rpm Engine speed during cranking should be above 100 rpm. If speed is too low, check for: Loose battery or starter terminals Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in commutator segments Dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear Defective drive gear overrunning clutch Check Starter Disengagement With the shift lever in turn the ignition switch to "START (III)", and release to "ON (II)". The starter drive gear should disengage from the drive plate/ring gear when you release the key. If the drive gear hangs up on the drive plate/ring gear, check for: Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear assembly or damaged overrunning clutch
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Starter Solenoid Test

1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground). The coil is OK if there is continuity.
2.
3.
4.
Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S and M terminals. The coil is OK if there is continuity.
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Starting System
Starter Replacement
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable. Remove the rear intake manifold bracket. Disconnect the starter cable from the B terminal on the solenoid, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire from the S (SOLENOID) terminal wire. Crimped side of ring terminal
NUT
5.
Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter. Install in the reverse order of removal. NOTE: When installing the starter cable, make sure that the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out.
6. 2.
3. 4.
UPPER MOUNTING BOLT 44 N-m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 Ibf-ft) B TERMINAL MOUNTING NUT
TERMINAL BLK/WHT WIRE
S (SOLENOID) TERMINAL WIRE
7.
Connect the battery positive cable and negative cable to the battery. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets.
8.
B TERMINAL LOWER MOUNTING BOLT 64 N-m (6.5 kgf-m, 47 Ibf-ft) REAR INTAKE MANIFOLD BRACKET
STARTER CABLE
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Starter Overhaul
CAUTION: Before removing the starter, disconnect the negative cable from the battery. STARTER SOLENOID SOLENOID LEVER
GASKET STARTER SOLENOID Test, page 23-73 BRUSH HOLDER
ARMATURE
OVERRUNNING CLUTCH ASSEMBLY RUBBER SEAL
SOLENOID LEVER
MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE
ARMATURE Inspection and Test, page 23-76
TERMINAL COVER BRUSH HOLDER Test, page 23-78 GEAR HOUSING
VENT TUBE
ARMATURE HOUSING with PERMANENT MAGNET BRUSH Inspection, page 23-78
BRACKET MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE END COVER
S TERMINAL WIRE GEAR HOUSING COVER OVERRUNNING CLUTCH ASSEMBLY Inspection, page 23-79
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Starting System
Armature Inspection and Test
1.
Inspect the armature for wear or damage due to contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
Inspect for damage
If commutator diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (NEW) 28.0-28.1 mm (1.102-1. 106 in)
VERNIER CALIPER
Service Limit
27.5 mm (1.083 in)
2.
Check commutator surface and diameter. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the following specifications, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper.
COMMUTATOR
COMMUTATOR
3.
Measure the commutator runout. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout
SANDPAPER
Standard (NEW) 0-0.02 mm (0-0.0008 in)
Service Limit
0.05 mm (0.002 in)
DIAL INDICATOR
COMMUTATOR
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4.
Check for mica depth. If necessary, undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to achieve proper depth. If the service limit cannot be maintained, replace the armature.
6.
Place the armature on an armature tester. Hold a hacksaw blade on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature. ARMATURE TESTER
HIGH MICA
NOT GOOD
GOOD
HACKSAW BLADE
MICA DEPTH
Commutator Mica Depth Standard (NEW) 0.4-0.5 mm (0.016 -0.020 in) Service Limit
0.15 mm (0.006 in)
ARMATURE
5.
Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If an open circuit exists between any segments, replace the armature.
7.
Check with an ohmmeter that no continuity exists between the commutator and armature coil core, and between the commutator and armature shaft. If continuity exists, replace the armature.
COMMUTATOR SEGMENT
SHAFT
COIL CORE
COMMUTATOR
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Starting System
Starter Brush Holder Test
1. Check that there is no continuity between the and brush holders. If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. BRUSH HOLDER BRUSH HOLDER
Starter Brush Inspection

Measure the brush length. If not within the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (NEW) Service Limit
15.8- 16.2 mm (0.62 -0.64 in)
11.0 mm (0.43 in)
BRUSH HOLDER
BRUSH HOLDER
2.
Insert the brush into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator, then attach a spring scale to the spring. Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush.
BRUSH
SPRING SCALE
NOTE: To seat new brushes after installing them in their holders, slip a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, over the commutator, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
SPRING
BRUSH
Spring Tension 15.7-17.7 N (1.60-1.80 kgf, 3.53-3.97 Ibf)
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Overrunning Clutch Inspection

1. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Does it move freely? If not, replace it. Rotate the overrunning clutch both ways. Does it lock in one direction and rotate smoothly in reverse? If it does not lock in either direction or it locks in both directions, replace it.
CLUTCH GEAR
Starter Reassembly
NOTE: Use the illustration on page 23-75 as reference for reassembly. 1. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush about halfway out of its holder, and release the spring to hold it there.
2.
2.
Install the armature in the housing. Next, pry back each brush spring again, and push the brush down until it seats against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush.
DRIVE GEAR
3.
If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the torque converter ring gear if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged.
4.
3.
Install the end cover on the brush holder.

BRUSH HOLDER
END COVER
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Starting System
Performance Test
NOTE: Before starting the following checks, disconnect the wire from terminal M, and make a connection as described below using as heavy a wire as possible (preferably equivalent to the wire used for the car). Pull-in Coil Test: Connect the battery as shown. If the starter pinion pops out, it is working properly. CAUTION: Do not leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.
BATTERY
Retracting Test: Disconnect the battery also from the body. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly. CAUTION: Do not leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.
BATTERY
BODY (GROUND)
BODY (GROUND) Disconnect the wire.
Starter No-load Test: 1. 2. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise. Connect the starter to the battery as shown in the diagram below, and confirm that the motor starts and keeps rotating.
Hold-in Coil Test: Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil is working properly. CAUTION: Do not leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.
STARTER
BATTERY
BODY (GROUND)
BATTERY
3.
If the electric current and motor speed meet the specifications when the battery voltage is at 11 V, the starter is working properly. Specifications: 80 A or less current draw 2,600 rpm or more rpm
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Ignition System
IGNITION TIMING CONTROL SYSTEM Description, page 23-82 Inspection, page 23-84 SERVICE CHECK CONNECTOR (2P) [Wire colors: GRN/BLU, ORN] IGNITION COIL Test, page 23-91 DISTRIBUTOR Top End Inspection, page 23-87 Removal/Installation, page 23-85 and 23-89 Overhaul, page 23-86
IGNITION CONTROL MODULE (ICM) Input Test, page 23-90
NOISE CONDENSER Test, page 23-87
TEST TACHOMETER CONNECTOR
SPARK PLUGS Inspection, page 23-92 IGNITION WIRES Inspection and Test, page 23-88
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Ignition System
Description
Ignition Timing Control: The programmed ignition (PGM-IG) used in this engine provides optimum control of ignition timing. A microcomputer determines the timing in response to engine speed and intake air flow mass. The input signals are transmitted by the TDC/CKP/CYP sensor, throttle position (TP) sensor, engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor, and MAF sensor. This system, which is not dependent on a governor or vacuum diaphragm, is capable of setting lead angles with complicated characteristics which cannot be provided by conventional governors or diaphragms.
Basic Control: The control unit has stored within it the optimum basic ignition timing for operating conditions based upon engine speed and intake air flow mass. With compensating signals from sensors, the system determines optimum ignition timing and duration for ambient conditions and sends voltage pulses to the ICM. Compensation of ignition timing: Compensation Item Idling Compensation at warm-up Related Sensor and Information TDC/CKP/CYP sensor MAF sensor ECT sensor Description Ignition timing is controlled to the target speed with compensation according to the idling speed. Lag angle is adjusted according to warm-up conditions to bring about a good balance between operating performance and exhaust gas level. Compensation for lead angle at low engine coolant temperature and lag angle at high engine coolant temperature.
ECT compensation
ECT sensor
Control at Start: Ignition timing is fixed at 5 BTDC for cranking. The cranking is detected by the TDC sensor (cranking rpm) and starter signal.
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Ignition System
Ignition Timing Inspection
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service. 5. Inspect ignition timing at idle speed. Ignition Timing: 15 2 BTDC (RED) at 700 50 rpm with shift lever in or position and electrical systems turned off.
1.
Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (shift lever in or position) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. Pull out the service check connector located under the glove box. Connect the GRN/BLU and ORN wire terminals with the special tool. SCS SERVICE CONNECTOR (07PAZ-0010100)
2.
POINTER
SERVICE CHECK CONNECTOR (2P) NOTE: Located under the glove box 3. 4. Check the idle speed (see page 23-85). Connect a timing light to the No. 1 ignition wire. Point the light toward the pointer on the timing belt cover. WHITE MARK
(TDC)
RED MARK
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
6.
If the ignition timing is incorrect, replace the ECM (there is no way to adjust ignition timing). Disconnect the special tool from the service check connector.
7.
NO. 1 PLUG WIRE TIMING LIGHT
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Idle Speed Check

1. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (shift lever in or ) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. Connect a tachometer to the test tachometer connector.
Distributor Removal
1. Disconnect the ignition wires from the distributor ignition (Dl) cap.
2.
TEST TACHOMETER CONNECTOR
MOUNTING BOLTS
2.
TACHOMETER
Remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
CLIP
TEST TACHOMETER CONNECTOR BATTERY
Idle speed: 700 50 rpm with shift lever in position or and electrical systems turned off. 3. Adjust the idle speed if necessary (see section 11).
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Ignition System
Distributor Overhaul
DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION (Dl) ROTOR HEAD
DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION (Dl) CAP Check for cracks, wear, damage, and fouling; if necessary, clean or replace. CARBON POINT SPRING
O-RING Replace.
DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION (Dl) HOUSING Check for cracks and damage. CARBON POINT
CAP SEAL
HEAT INSULATOR
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Distributor Top End Inspection

1. 2. Check for rough or pitted rotor and cap terminals. Scrape or file off the carbon deposits. Smooth the rotor terminal with an oil stone or #600 sandpaper if rough.
Noise Condenser Capacity Test

1. Use a commercially available condenser tester. Connect the condenser tester probes and measure the condenser capacity. Condenser capacity: 0.47 0.09 microfarads
CAP TERMINAL
ROTOR TERMINAL
POSITIVE TERMINAL
BODY GROUND (Negative)
CARBON POINT
NOTE: The noise condenser is intended to reduce ignition noise. However, condenser failure may cause the engine to stop running. 2. If not within the specifications, replace the noise condenser.
3.
Check the distributor ignition (Dl) cap for cracks, wear, and damage. If necessary, clean or replace it.
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Ignition System
Ignition Wire Inspection and Test
CAUTION: Carefully remove the ignition wires by pulling on the rubber boots. Do not bend the wires; you might break them inside. 1. Check the condition of the ignition wire terminals. If any terminal is corroded, clean it, and if it is broken or distorted, replace the wire. IGNITION WIRES 2. Connect ohmmeter probes and measure resistance. Ignition Wire Resistance: 25k max. at 68F (20C)
IGNITION WIRES
Check for broken, corroded, and bent terminals.
3.
If resistance exceeds 25 k , replace the ignition wire.
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Distributor Installation
NOTE: Use the illustration on page 23-86 as reference for reassembly. Before you install the distributor, bring the No. 1 piston to compression stroke TDC. 1. 2. Coat a new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. Clean the mating surfaces of the distributor and the cylinder head. NOTE: Make sure that the distributor vent hole is not clogged. 3. Slip the distributor into position. NOTE: The lug on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180 out of time. 5. Connect the ignition wires and ignition coil wire in the numbered sequence shown.
DISTRIBUTOR
END
CAMSHAFT
END
LUGS
6.
Inspect the timing with a timing light as shown on page 23-84.
GROOVES
NEW O-RING
MOUNTING BOLTS 18 N-m (1.8 kgf-m, 13 Ibf-ft)
4.
Install the mounting bolts, then tighten them.
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Ignition System
Ignition Control Module (ICM) Input Test
NOTE: See section 11 when the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) blinks. Perform an input test on the ignition control module (ICM) after finishing the fundamental tests for the ignition system and fuel emission system. Disconnect the 4P connector from the ICM. Make the following input tests at the connector terminals. If all tests prove OK, yet the system still fails to work, replace the ICM. 3. 2. With the ignition switch ON (II), there should be battery voltage between the No. 3 (+) and No. 4 (-) terminals. If there is battery voltage, go to step 3. If there is no voltage, check for: An open in the BLK/YEL wire. Disconnected terminals. Faulty ignition coil (see page 23-91). With the ignition switch ON (II), there should be battery voltage between the No. 2 (+) and No. 4 (-) terminals. If there is no voltage, check for: An open in the GRN wire between the ignition coil and ICM. Faulty ignition coil (see page 23-91).
IGNITION COIL
Check for continuity between the No. 4 terminal and body ground. If there is continuity, go to step 2. If there is no continuity, check for: An open in the BLK wire. Disconnected terminals. Poor ground (G101).
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Ignition Coil Test

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within specifications. NOTE: Resistance will vary with the coil temperature; specifications are at 68F (20C). Primary Winding Resistance (Between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals): 0.36 - 0.44 ohms 4P CONNECTOR Secondary Winding Resistance (Between the No. 2 and secondary winding terminals): 10.8-16.2k Resistance between the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals: 2.0-2.3k
2. Disconnect the 4P connector and ignition coil wire.
SECONDARY WINDING TERMINAL
TERMINAL SIDE OF MALE TERMINALS
SECONDARY WINDING TERMINAL
4.
Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. Replace the coil if there is no continuity.
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Ignition System
Spark Plug Inspection
1. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator for: 2. Check the electrode gap. Adjust the gap with a suitable gapping tool. Electrode Gap
Replace the plug if the center electrode is rounded as shown below: Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing Loose spark plug Plug heat range too low Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing Oil in combustion chamber Incorrect spark plug gap Plug heat range too high Excessive idling/low speed running Clogged air cleaner element Deteriorated ignition coil or ignition wires 3.
Spark Plugs
Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. Then torque them to 18 N-m (1.8 kgf-m, 13 Ibf-ft).
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Charging System
CHARGING SYSTEM LIGHT (In the gauge assembly) Test, page 23-96 Bulb Locations, page 23-115
BATTERY Test, page 23-60
ALTERNATOR Alternator and Regulator Test, page 23-98 Replacement, page 23-100 Overhaul, page 23-101
ALTERNATOR BELT Inspection and Adjustment, page 23-104
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Charging System
Description
To improve fuel economy, the alternator control system within the ECM changes the voltage generated at the alternator in accordance with driving conditions.
Throttle position (TP) sensor
Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
TDC/CKP/CYP sensor
ECM
Alternator
Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
ELD
Air conditioning signal
Generated voltage decreases from 14.0 V to 12.5 V
STARTER SWITCH ON
AND
AND
ELECTRICAL LOAD below 15 A and VEHICLE SPEED between 9 mph (15 km/h) and 44 mph (70 km/h) and ENGINE SPEED between 1,100 rpm and 3,000 rpm and ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE above 176F (80C) and A/C SWITCH OFF and INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE above 65F (18C)
FUEL CUT-OFF CONTROL function is not engaged.
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Charging System
Troubleshooting
If the charging system light is on, or the battery is dead or low, test the following items in the order listed below. 1. 2. 3. Battery (see page 23-60) Charging System Light Alternator/Regulator Check the No. 4 (15 A)* 1 or (20 A)* 2 fuse in the under-dash fuse/ relay box.
Is the fuse OK?
Replace the fuse. ALTERNATOR 4P CONNECTOR
Check for an open in the L circuit: 1. Disconnect the 4P connector from the alternator. 2. Ground the No. 4*1 or No. 3*2 terminal of the 4P connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
'95 - 96 models
'97 - 98 models
Does the charging system light come on?
Check for a blown charging system light bulb. If the bulb is OK, repair the open in the WHT/BLU wire. WIRE SIDE OF FEMALE TERMINALS
4. Disconnect the No. 4*1 or No. 3*2 terminal of the 4P connector from the ground.
ALTERNATOR 4P CONNECTOR '95 - 96 models '97 - 98 models
Does the charging system light go off?
The charging system light circuit is OK.
Check for a short to body ground in the L circuit: 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the ABS control unit (C447)*1 and integrated control unit (C401), as applicable. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). WIRE SIDE OF FEMALE TERMINALS Does the charging system light stay off? Turn the ignition switch OFF, and repair the short to ground in the WHT/BLU wire.
*1: '95 -96 models *2: '97 - 98 models
(To page 23-97)
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(From page 23-96)
Check for short in control unit(s): 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Reconnect the ABS control unit connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the charging system light. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF again. 5. Reconnect the integrated control unit connector. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the charging system light again.
ALTERNATOR 4P CONNECTOR '95-96 models '97-98 models
Did the light stay off when you turned on the ignition switch after connecting each control unit connector?
Replace the control unit that caused the light to come on.
Check for an open in the IG circuit: Measure the voltage at the No. 3*1 or No. 1*2 terminal of the 4P connector. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and repair the open circuit in the BLK/ YEL wire.
Is there battery voltage?
Check the Alternator/Regulator: 1. Connect the 4P connector to the alternator. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Does the charging system light come on?
Check the alternator/regulator (see page 23-98).
3. Start the engine.
Does the charging system light go off?
Check the alternator/regulator (see page 23-98). *1: '95 -96 models *2: '97 - 98 models
The charging system light circuit is OK.
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Charging System
Troubleshooting (cont'd)
NOTE: Be sure the battery is sufficiently charged (see page 23-60).
Alternator/Regulator Test-1: 1. Connect the Sun VAT-40 (or equivalent tester), and turn the selector switch to position 1 (starting). 2. Shift to or position, and start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 3. Raise the engine speed to 2,000 rpm, and hold it there. FULL FIELD TESTER LEAD (BLU) VOLTMETER NEGATIVE LEAD (BLK)
LOAD ADJUSTER (CARBON PILE)
VOLTMETER POSITIVE LEAD (RED)
VOLT SELECTOR Is the voltage over 15.1 V? FIELD SELECTOR TEST SELECTOR SWITCH Alternator/Regulator Test-2: 1. Release the accelerator pedal, and let the engine idle. 2. Make sure all accessories are turned off. Turn the selector switch to position 2 (charging). 3. Remove the inductive pick-up, and zero the ammeter. 4. Place the inductive pick-up over the B terminal wire of the alternator so that the arrow points away from the alternator. 5. Raise the engine speed to 2,000 rpm, and hold it there. INDUCTIVE PICK-UP (GRN)
NEGATIVE TESTER CABLE (BLK) POSITIVE TESTER CABLE (RED)
B TERMINAL WIRE
INDUCTIVE PICK-UP
Replace the voltage regulator.
Is the voltage less than 13.5 V?
Test and repair the alternator components.
(To page 23-99)
Main Menu
Table of Contents
(From page 23-98)
Is the amperage 75 A or more?
The charging system is OK.
Alternator/Regulator Test-4: With the engine speed still at 2,000 rpm, full-field the alternator.
CAUTION: The voltage will rise quickly when the alternator is full-fielded. Do not allow the voltage to exceed 18 V; it may damage the electrical system. NOTE: Attach a probe to the VAT-40 full field test lead, and insert the probe into the full field access hole at the back of the alternator. Switch the field selector to the "A (Ground)" position momentarily, and check the amperage reading. REGULATOR (Located inside the end cover) FULL FIELD ACCESS HOLE
END COVER
Is the alternator output 75 A or more?
Test and repair the alternator components.
ALTERNATOR 4P CONNECTOR '95-96 models '97-98 models
BLK/YEL Wire Test: 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then turn it on (II) again. 2. Disconnect the 4P connector from the alternator. 3. Check for voltage at the No. 3 *' or No. 1*2 terminal of the 4P connector.
Repair the open in the BLK/YEL wire. *1:'95-96 models *2: '97 - 98 models
Replace the voltage regulator.
23-99
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Charging System
Alternator Replacement
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable. Disconnect the 4P connector from the alternator. Remove the terminal nut and BLK wire from the B terminal.
B TERMINAL BLK WIRE
5. Loosen the through bolt, then loosen the adjustment lock bolt, and then the adjusting nut.
2.
3. 4.
ADJUSTING NUT 8 N-m (0.8 kgf-m, 6 Ibf-ft) THROUGH BOLT 44 N-m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 Ibf-ft) ADJUSTMENT LOCK BOLT 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft)
6. Remove the belt from the alternator. 7. Remove the adjustment lock bolt and the through bolt, then remove the alternator.
4P CONNECTOR
8. Install in the reverse order of removal. 9. Adjust the alternator belt tension (see page 23-105). 10. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets.
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Table of Contents
Alternator Overhaul
NOTE: Do not remove the pulley unless the front bearing needs replacement. To loosen the pulley locknut, use the tools as shown. If necessary, use an impact wrench. PULLEY
END COVER TERMINAL INSULATOR BRUSH HOLDER INSULATOR BRUSH ASSEMBLY Inspection, page 23-102 VOLTAGE REGULATOR
22 mm BOX WRENCH
10 mm BOX WRENCH PULLEY LOCKNUT 111 N-m (11.3 kgf-m, 81.7 Ibf-ft)
RECTIFIER ASSEMBLY Test, page 23-102
REAR HOUSING
SPACER RING REAR BEARING INSULATOR SLEEVE
Do not disassemble.
BEARING INSULATOR STATOR THROUGH-BOLT STATOR ASSEMBLY/DRIVE END HOUSING Test, page 23-103
PULLEY LOCKNUT 111 N-m (11.3 kgf-m, 81.7 Ibf-ft) ROTOR Test, page 23-103 CAUTION: Do not get grease or oil on the slip rings. FRONT BEARING
PULLEY
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Charging System
Rectifier Test
NOTE: The diodes are designed to allow current to pass in one direction while blocking it in the opposite direction. Since the alternator rectifier is made up of eight diodes (four pairs), each diode must be tested for continuity in both directions with an ohmmeter that has diode checking capability; a total of 16 checks.
1.
Alternator Brush Inspection

1. Remove the end cover, then take out the brush holder by removing its two screws. Measure the length of the brushes with a vernier caliper. Alternator Brush Length: Standard: 10.5 mm (0.41 in) Service Limit: 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
2.
Check for continuity in each direction, between the B and P, and between the E (ground) and P terminals of each diode pair. All diodes should have continuity in only one direction.
ALTERNATOR BRUSHES VERNIER CALIPER
If the brushes are less than the service limit, replace the alternator brush assembly.
2.
If any of the eight diodes fails, replace the rectifier assembly. (Diodes are not available separately.)
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Rotor Slip Ring Test

1. Check the resistance between the slip rings. There should be 1.8 - 3.0 ohms. If resistance meets the specification, go to step 2. If resistance does not meet the specification, replace the alternator.
Stator Test
1. Check that there is continuity between each pair of leads.
LEADS
ROTOR SHAFT
COIL CORE SLIP RINGS
ROTOR
2.
Check that there is no continuity between each lead and the coil core. If the coil fails either continuity check, replace the alternator.
3. 2. Check that there is no continuity between the slip rings and the rotor or rotor shaft. If the rotor fails either continuity check, replace the alternator.
3.
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Charging System
Alternator Belt Inspection and Adjustment
Deflection Method: Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 Ibf), and measure the deflection between the alternator and the crankshaft pulley. Deflection: 9.0 - 11.5 mm (0.35 - 0.45 in) NOTE: On a brand-new belt (one that has been run for less than five minutes), the deflection should be 5.5 - 7.0 mm (0.22 - 0.28 in) when first measured. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. NOTE: On a brand-new belt, (one that has been run for less than five minutes), the tension should be 830 1030 N (85 - 105 kgf, 187 - 231 Ibf) when first measured. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. Belt Tension Gauge Method: Following the gauge manufacturer's instructions, attach the special tool to the belt, and measure the tension. Tension: 390 - 540 N (40 - 55 kgf, 88 - 121 Ibf)
BELT TENSION GAUGE 07JGG-001010A
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
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Table of Contents
If adjustment is necessary: 1. 2. Loosen the through bolt and the adjusting lock bolt. Move the alternator by turning the adjusting nut to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the bolts.
THROUGH BOLT 44 N-m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 Ibf-ft)
ADJUSTMENT LOCK BOLT 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft) To loosen belt
ADJUSTING NUT 8 N-m (0.8 kgf-m, 6 Ibf-ft)
3.
Recheck the deflection or tension of the belt. NOTE: For the power steering pump belt and A/C compressor belt adjustments, refer to section 17 and section 22.
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Fan Controls
RADIATOR FAN CONTROL MODULE Terminals, page 23-109
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SWITCH B Test, section 10 Replacement, section 10
RADIATOR FAN Test, page 23-109 Removal, section 10
CONDENSER FAN Test, page 23-109 Removal, section 10 RADIATOR FAN RELAY Wire colors: WHT, YEL, WHT/BLU, LT GRN/YEL Test, page 23-62 CONDENSER FAN RELAY Wire colors: WHT, YEL/WHT WHT/GRN, LT GRN/YEL Test, page 23-62
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SWITCH A Test, section 10 Removal, section 10
Description: Radiator Fan Control System When the engine coolant temperature (ECT) is above approximately 207F (97C) after the engine has stopped, the radiator fan will run for about 15 minutes. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) switch B is on the thermostat cover, and the radiator fan control module is located under the right side of the dash.
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Fan Controls
Troubleshooting
NOTE: The numbers in the table show the troubleshooting sequence.
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Radiator Fan Control Module Terminals

TERMINAL SIDE OF MALE TERMINALS,
Fan Motor Test

1. Disconnect the 2P connector from each fan motor.
CONDENSER FAN MOTOR RADIATOR FAN MOTOR
RADIATOR FAN CONTROL MODULE
TERMINAL SIDE OF
MALE TERMINALS
NOTE: See section 22 for the input test. Terminal Wire Connects to 2. Test the motor by connecting battery power to the No. 2 terminal and ground to the No. 1 terminal. If the motor fails to run or does not run smoothly, replace it.
3.
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Gauge Assembly
FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT Test, page 23-121 GAUGE ASSEMBLY Gauge/Terminal Locations Index, page 23-111 Removal, page 23-114 Bulb Locations, page 23-115 Disassembly, page 23-116 BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH Test, page 23-125
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (VSS) Troubleshooting, page 23-117 Replacement, page 23-120
PARKING BRAKE SWITCH Test, page 23-125
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH Test, page 23-120
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) GAUGE SENDING UNIT Test, page 23-124
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Gauge/Terminal Location Index
CONNECTOR "A" (C612)
CONNECTOR "B" (C613)
FUEL GAUGE: Gauge Test, page 23-121 Sending Unit Test, page 23-122
A/T GEAR POSITION INDICATOR SYSTEM See page 23-142
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) GAUGE: Gauge Test, page 23-124 Sending Unit Test, page 23-124
SPEEDOMETER: Indicates 60 mph at 1025 rpm (60 km/h at 637 rpm) of the vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
TACHOMETER: Indicates 100 rpm at 250 pulses per minute of the ignition control module (ICM).
SAFETY INDICATOR See page 23-135
CONNECTOR "D" (C615)
CONNECTOR "C" (C614)
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Gauge Assembly
Removal
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS (section 24) before performing repairs or service. 1. 2. Remove the instrument panel (see section 20). Remove the four screws from the gauge assembly, and spread a protective cloth on the upper column cover. 4. Carefully remove the gauge assembly.
5.
PROTECTIVE CLOTH
3.
Pry the gauge assembly out, and disconnect the connectors.
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Bulb Locations
GAUGE LIGHTS (1.4 W x 2)
HIGH BEAM INDICATOR LIGHT (1.4 W) SEAT BELT REMINDER LIGHT (1.4 W) RIGHT TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LIGHT (1.4 W) BRAKE SYSTEM LIGHT (1.4 W) LEFT TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LIGHT (1.4 W) SRS INDICATOR LIGHT (1.4 W) (On the SRS printed circuit board) MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) (1.4 W) CHARGING SYSTEM LIGHT (1.4 W) LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LIGHT (1.4 W)
LOW FUEL INDICATOR LIGHT (3 W)
ABS INDICATOR LIGHT (1.4 W) GAUGE LIGHTS (3.4 W x 3) CRUISE LIGHT (2 W)
SAFETY INDICATOR LIGHTS (1.12 W x 6) GAUGE LIGHTS (3.4 W x 2)
DRL INDICATOR LIGHT (1.4 W) (Canada)
A/T GEAR POSITION INDICATOR LIGHTS (1.12 W x 7)
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Gauge Assembly
Disassembly
TACHOMETER MOUNTING SCREW (x 3) SRS INDICATOR PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) GAUGE MOUNTING SCREWS (x 3)
SPEEDOMETER MOUNTING SCREWS (x 4) FUEL GAUGE MOUNTING SCREWS (x 3)
BULB HOUSING (ILLUMINATION)
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD
HOUSING
SAFETY INDICATOR PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD A/T GEAR POSITION INDICATOR DIMMING PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) GAUGE Test, page 23-124
SPEEDOMETER Specification, page 23-111
FUEL GAUGE Test, page 23-121
TACHOMETER Specification, page 23-111 METER VISOR METER PANEL
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Speedometer/Trip Meter/Odometer
Troubleshooting
NOTE: The numbers in the table show the troubleshooting sequence. If necessary, replace the speedometer, trip meter, and odometer as a unit.
VSS Input Test
Trml
Wire
BLK
Test condition Under all conditions Ignition switch ON (II)
Test: Desired result Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity. Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. Check for voltage to ground: There should be about 5 V or more.
Possible cause if result is not obtained Poor ground (G101) An open in the wire Blown No. 1 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Short to ground An open in the wire Short to ground An open in the wire
1
2
YEL
ORN
Ignition switch ON (II)
NOTE: A short to ground in the ORN wire can be caused by a short in any component connected to it.
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)

Troubleshooting
Speedometer, trip meter, and odometer do not work. Before testing, inspect the No. 1 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Test the BLK wire: 1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). 2. Connect the test harness only to the engine wire harness. 3. Connect the RED test harness clip to the positive probe of an ohmmeter. 4. Check for continuity between the RED test harness clip and body ground. TEST HARNESS 07LAJ - PT3020A
RED TEST HARNESS CLIP
PROTECTIVE TAPE
VSS
Is there continuity? Repair open in the BLK wire between the VSS and G101.
GRN TEST HARNESS CLIP
TEST HARNESS 07LAJ - PT3020A Test the YEL wire: 1. Connect the other test harness connector to the VSS. 2. Connect the WHT test harness clip to the positive probe of a voltmeter, and connect the RED test harness clip to the negative probe. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). RED TEST HARNESS
Repair open in the YEL wire between the VSS and the underdash fuse/relay box.
VSS
PROTECTIVE TAPE WHT TEST HARNESS CLIP
(To page 23-119)
Main Menu
Table of Contents
(From page 23-118)
TEST HARNESS 07LAJ - PT3020A
WHT TEST HARNESS CLIP RED TEST HARNESS CLIP
Test the ORN wire: Connect the GRN test harness clip to the positive probe of a voltmeter, and connect the RED test harness clip to the negative probe. Repair open or short in the ORN wire between the VSS and ECM, transmission control module (TCM), and cruise control unit.
Is there about 5 V or more?
Test the VSS: 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Raise the front of the car, and support it with safety stands. 3. Put the car in neutral with the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Slowly rotate one wheel with the other wheel blocked.
VSS
PROTECTIVE TAPE
GRN TEST HARNESS CLIP
Does voltage pulse from 0 to approx. 5 V or more?
Replace the VSS (see page 23-120).
Test the Speedometer: 1. Disconnect the 16P connector "A" (C612) from the gauge assembly. 2. Connect a voltmeter between the ORN wire, and body ground. 3. Slowly rotate one wheel with the other wheel blocked.
GAUGE ASSEMBLY 16P CONNECTOR "A" (C612)
Does the meter indicate pulsing voltage (0 to approx. 5 V or more)?
Repair open in the ORN wire between the VSS and the speedometer.
Replace the speedometer.
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)

Replacement
1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Remove the two mounting bolts, then remove the VSS. NOTE: The VSS drive link is a very small part; be careful not to lose it.
3P CONNECTOR
Engine Low Oil Pressure Indicator System

Switch Test
1. Remove the YEL/RED wire from the engine oil pressure switch. Check for continuity between the positive terminal and the engine (ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity when the engine runs.
2.
2.
MOUNTING BOLT
VSS
YEL/RED WIRE ENGINE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
MOUNTING BOLT
OIL FILTER
DRIVE LINK POSITIVE TERMINAL
3.
3.
If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level. If the engine oil level is OK, check the engine oil pressure and, if necessary, inspect the oil pump (see section 8).

1995 - 1998 Acura 2.5TL 3.2TL Service Manual - Part8

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1995 - 1998 Acura 2.5TL 3.2TL Service Manual - Part8

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Main Menu

Guide Rails/Cable Assembly Replacement

INNER CABLE Apply molybdenum grease. MOTOR GROMMET

DRAIN SEAL GUIDE RAIL SUNSHADE RAIL FRAME

REAR STAY COLLAR COLLAR LIFT-UP LINK

Opening Drag Check (Motor Removed)

Closing Force Check (Motor Installed)

GLASS GLASS SPRING SCALE 2.

MOTOR CLUTCH ADJUSTING NUT MOTOR

CLOCKWISE To increase force.

COUNTERCLOCKWISE To decrease force.

REAR SHELF (see page 20-59)

TRUNK SIDE TRIM (see page 20-60)

REAR TRIM PANEL (see page 20-61)

CENTER CONSOLE Replacement, page 20-64

CENTER PILLAR LOWER TRIM FRONT DOOR SILL MOLDING

Forward REAR DOOR TRIM

FRONT DOOR TRIM

REAR DOOR SILL MOLDING

FRONT PILLAR TRIM

REAR PILLAR TRIM

4 N-m (0.4 kgf-m, 3 Ibf-ft)

REAR PILLAR TRIM

REAR PILLAR TRIM

REAR SEAT BELT SLIT 6. REAR DOOR TRIM

REAR SEAT BELT

REAR TRIM PANEL

TRUNK SIDE TRIM

TRUNK FRONT TRIM

TRUNK SIDE TRIM

a. Pull the inner clip up as shown. INNER CLIP

REAR TRIM PANEL

ROOF TRIM JOINT

REAR PILLAR TRIM

Without moonroof model

FRONT PILLAR TRIM

in the carpet, then pull it back as shown.

Remove the kick panels.

FASTENERS LEFT KICK PANEL

RIGHT KICK PANEL

WIRE TIE SLIT

ASHTRAY CENTER CONSOLE INNER

CENTER CONSOLE PANEL CLIP

SRS MAIN HARNESS

(1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)

HAZARD WARNING SWITCH CONNECTOR

CONNECTORS RADIO PANEL

STEREO RADIO/ CASSETTE PLAYER

DAMPER CLIP DAMPER

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

DASHBOARD CENTER TRIM

38 N-m (3.9 kgf-m, 28 Ibf-ft)

16 N-m (1.6 kgf-m, 12 Ibf-ft) Replace.

DASHBOARD WIRE HARNESS CONNECTORS

DASHBOARD WIRE HARNESS STEERING COLUMN

(1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)

STEERING JOINT COVER

FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG

9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)

6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)

6 x 1.0 mm 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft)

9 N-m (0.9 kgf-m, 7 Ibf-ft) PROTECTIVE PLATE

PROTECTIVE PLATE DASHBOARD