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eHow Careers & Work Careers Manuf acturing Jobs How to Make a Knif e From a Leaf Spring
How to Make a Knife With Leaf
Springs
The Best Steel for a Knife Blade
How to Make a Knife From a Leaf Spring
This project is for blacksmiths who have at least a working knowledge of blacksmithing tools,
techniques and terminologies; have forged, annealed, tempered and sphereodized billets and
blanks; and have access to a fully equipped blacksmiths shop. If you do not yet have this
level of knowledge, please take at least two semesters of blacksmithing classes at your local
community college or apprentice yourself to a local blacksmith for at least six months before
attempting this project. The focus of this article is on making and heat-treating the blade;
handle treatment is up to you.
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Instructions
Decide what type of knife you want to make.
It is helpful to draw your knife design out a
few times with the soapstone marker on the
spring.
Heat the leaf spring up to bright orange in
your forge and hammer the curve straight.
Cut the steel to your approximate desired
blade length using a cutting hardy or hot
chisel.
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How to Heat-Treat
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Metric Stainless Steel
Power Spring
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Things You'll Need
Piece of leaf spring
Forge
4# Cross peen or sledge
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DSP Di amond kni ves
Quality work.24 hr turnaround. All
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steel, revolutionizing die-making.
Reheat the blade to orange and normalize. Repeat the normalizing process a couple
times as leaf spring tends to have memory even after normalizing, and will return to
something close to its original shape.
Reheat the knife blank you just made in Step Two to bright orange and
hammer it to your approximate desired thickness. Draw the knife tang
out to your desired size and shape, and then forge the blade profile.
Straighten the blade first, and then hammer the edge bevel to your
desired angle, between 22-30 degrees included.
Don wrap-around eye protection, ear protection, and a NIOSH-approved respirator.
Normalize the blade and rough grind it to an 80-grit finish. Leave enough stock on the
blade for heat-treating and finish grinding.
Heat the blade past eutectic and quench it vertically in oil. Grind any scale from the
blade and slow heat it over the mouth of the forge until the entire blade turns peacock
blue. Repeat this process three time as leaf spring, which is made of 5160 ASAE, needs a
triple temper to get compete martensite conversion.
For safety, it is best to leave the blade relatively dull until the handle and sheath
treatment is complete. Once you have applied your desired handle treatment, grind and
polish the blade, using 80-grit through 800 grit abrasives, plus wire, polishing and
buffing wheels to your desired finish.
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Tips & Warnings
This project is much more hazardous than making a stock-removal method knife. Quenching forged
steel exposes the metalsmith to hazardous fumes. Contact with hot steel can cause severe burns
and serious, permanent injury. Grinders and other power tools can cause cuts, burns, crushing and
tearing injuries, amputations and death.
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Resources
Heat Treatment and Steel Chemistry
Learning by Doing: Forging a Knife Blade
Using a Cutting Hardy
Appalachian Blacksmith's Association Safety Pages
Polishing and Finishing Blades
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