Business of Fashion - April 2014

APRIL 2014 | VOL. XV | NO.
4 | `100
THE
WESTERN
FORMALWEAR
MARKET IN INDIA
Market Sizing & Research
Western Formals Trends Forecast
Fashion Weeks Lakme & ILPA
Linen Club Rupa Baggit
BEST IN MERCHANDISE AND

TRENDS FROM ACROSS THE WORLD.
APRIL 2014 | 146 PAGES | VOL. XV NO.4 | www.imagesfashion.com
Editor-In-Chief: Amitabh Taneja

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Art Director: Pawan Kumar Verma
Sr. Layout Designer: Prakash Jha
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General Manager Consumer Connect: Hemant Wadhawan
Asst. General Manager Marketing: Sheela Malladi
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Dear Readers,
From the 7th of April to the 12th of May 14, over 81 crore
Indians will vote for the 543 Lok Sabha seats. It is the biggest
election in the history of mankind.
It is also widely expected that after the General Elections
business and economic activities will see an upsurge and all
major players will have clarity on the environment through
which they will have to steer their ships. That should make
a very signicant change to the business sentiments. It has
been 25 years since we have seen a single party majority.
The fact that business in India has grown tremendously over
this quarter of a century despite no single party being totally
in control of pushing through its own agenda is an ode to
the resilience and resourcefulness of Indian enterprise. And
nothing else.
Hopefully this year we will have a much smoother playing eld
for all to play in.
And while we might have been tempted to bring out an issue
on Indian formal wear for netas our Cover Story this month in
Images BoF is on the Western Formalwear Market in India. It
is a category that has seen the birth of many a brand in India.
And yet we suspect it is still quite urban and with the mens
segment dwarng the womens by some magnitude. Our
cover research unveils the true size, sectors, prospects and
challenges in the category. This is followed up with discussions
with some of the foremost fashion brands, retailers and
fabric companies, to put the critical issues in the formalwear
category into true perspective. Team Ingene also chips in with
its forecasts for western formalwear fall-winter 14-15. We
also track a couple of fashion events. Also in the issue are our
regular features like Outlets, Brand Tracker, My Thoughts,
Retail Watch, Retail Excellence, Technology, Web Watch and
Design Concept.
Happy reading and please do cast your votes this year.
Amitabh Taneja
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contents | April 2014
EVERY MONTH
28
17
Editorial
24
Letters To The Editor
28
Outlets
30
Brand Tracker
MY THOUGHTS
32
Accessories Polish Your Formal Look

Nina Lekhi, Founder of Baggit stresses on the importance of accessories in a
formal wear wardrobe
PERSPECTIVE
32
34
34
Emergence of Western Formal Wear

Dr Sanyogeitaa Chadha writes on the factors contributing to the change in
clothing patterns in India and eloquently denes western formal wear
TRENDS
66
Trend Byte: Western Formal Wear FW 2014-15

Latest trends in western formal wear by Ingene
DESIGN CONCEPTS
66
68
W and Indigo Nation

Nominees of the design concept of the year in the IFA 2014
LAUNCH PAD
72
Duke Sun 'n' Surf

Duke launches its new SS '14 collection for leisure wear enthusiasts
RETAIL EXCELLENCE
74
68
Linen Club: The Niche Fabric

S Krishnamoorthy , CEO - Domestic Textiles, Aditya Birla Group elaborates on
the brands successful franchise model and the challenges in the segment
SPOTLIGHT
78
Raghavendra Rathore: After the Hiatus

Renowned fashion designer, Raghavendra Rathore talks to us about his
comeback after four long years and trends he envisages for the forthcoming
season
RETAIL WATCH
82
78
Time to be Exclusive
Nikhil Jain, retail head, Rupa & Company talks about the recently opened
exclusive Rupa outlet and the brand's further expansion plans
COVER STORY
40
THE FORMAL WESTERN

WEAR MARKET IN INDIA
Amit Gugnani, senior vice president
for fashiontextile and apparel
and Kanti Prakash Brahma, senior
consultant for fashion at Technopak
Advisors, highlight the burgeoning
market for formal western wear
48
CREATING WESTERN
FORMAL WEAR FOR INDIA
Images Business of Fashion talks to
renowned brands in fashion retail to
present industry insights in western
formal wear
86
ENTREPRENEUR
86
Ethix Clothing: About Dreams and Ethics

Under the leadership of Avneesh Mishra and Dharmesh Gathani, the
brand is going strong and intends to reach the pinnacle of success in
the near future
TECHNOLOGY
88
Fendi Drones Up Tech-Fashion

A latest innovation by Fendi, ensured that cameras installed on drones
captured the Italian luxury fashion show live on its website
DESIGNER WEAVES
88
90
90
Fashion Trends at Large

Highlights straight from the ramp of Lakme Fashion Week
96
ILPA: Bag and Baggage

Highlights of the leather on ramp show in Kolkata
WEBWATCH
98
Apparel for a Cause

Bharath Madhiraju, founder of Samtana.com talks to Images Business
of Fashion about their start up
98
PERSONALITY OF THE MONTH
100
100
Work Your Heart Out

Vasanth Kumar, executive director, Max discloses his personal and
professional side
letters to the editor
advertisers index
One of the challenging and up surging markets in
India are kids which constitutes a major chunk of the
population. The cover story on kidswear was quite
insightful. I am a kidswear manufacturer myself, the
story was meaningful to me in many aspects. Keep up
the good work!
- Dharmendra Rawat, apparel manufacturer,
Bhiwani
Its no childs play to bring out a monthly magazine
with high quality content. Images Business of Fashion
features selective stories and it is truly a treat to read
them every month. I must congratulate the editorial
team for their honest efforts.
- Adil Meer, entrepreneur, Jammu
I am very fond of the seasons offerings that you feature
regularly.
- Rachna Johri, fashion forecaster, Mumbai
I have been reading your esteem magazine for a very
long time now. Not only I read each and every page of
the magazine but I also apply its knowledge to grow my
business.
- Raq Beg, entrepreneur, Meerut
I was mesmerised to see my favourite fashion designer,
Malini Ramani in the personality of the month column.
It was enchanting to know about her personal and
professional side.
- Ruchika Duggal, Fashion Student, Gandhinagar
Disclaimer:
In the March 2014 issue we missed giving credit to Sunayna
Gupta for her article on Pintoo Garments: Selling Kidswear
is no kids play. The error is regretted.
24 | April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion
front gate fold: ROCKSTAR

inside front cover: CLASSIC POLO
inside back cover: SHAPE MANNEQUINS
back gate fold: ROCKSTAR JEANS
back cover: OKS BOYS
dog ear: ETEENZ, AMERICAN SWAN, WEB DENIM,
LACROSSE, YELLOW JEANS, JACK & JONES,
VERO MODA
Special Insertion: CRIMSOUNE CLUB
9
7th SIN
11
BEING HUMAN
39, 43, 45
BODYCARE
61
BONJOUR
DEAL
15
DESI BELLE
119
DONEAR
71
DUKE
10
HAPPY SOCKS
HATS OFF
26, 27
INFINITY MALL
16
IRONY
130, 131
ISCF
63, 103
KUFNER
57
LA MILIARDO
20
LAVEN
81
LIBERTY
111
LUX ONN
OFFICER
SHIRTS
22
OTTO
144
RECRON
65
REETACK
JEANS
59
RESIL
51
RIVERSTONE
125
SAFEXPRESS
77, 103
SARIKA
13
SIN
12
SIYARAMS
37
SNX
142, 143
SUBSCRIPTION
FORM
25
TAANZ
101
T-BASE
47
TEEMPER
127
THE DENIM
BIBLE
18, 19
TRANZ
MANNEQUINS
14
TSG BREEZE
73
TURTLE
WEB DENIMS
29
WILKINS &
TUSCANY
69
YKK
outlets
BEING HUMAN CLOTHING INDORE

Promoter: Manish Mandhana
Location: Malhar Mega Mall, AB Road, Sheetal
Nagar, Scheme No. 54, Vijay Nagar, Indore
Total number of stores in India: 23 (including one
in Nepal)
Product range: T-shirts, shirts, jeans, ipops,
wallets, caps, belts, chinos, shorts,track suits
Price range: `699 and above for apparels
Future plans: The brand has plans to reach 50
EBOs and 175 SIS across by March 2015. They
are also opening EBOs in Delhi, Kolkata, Udaipur,
Pune, Jammu, Kota, Calicut, and Mysore.
STUDIO TARA MUMBAI

Promoter: Bharathi Raviprakash
Location: Dhairya Apartments, Khar West, Mumbai
Total number of stores in India: 2
Product range: The product range comprises bangles,
bracelets, necklaces, earrings, cufinks, and pendants
Price range: `50,000 and above
Future plans: The brand is opening outlets in four
different countries
KAZO BENGALURU
Promoter: Kazo Fashion Ltd
Location: Samrat No. 2013, 100 ft road, HAL 2nd stage,
Indira Nagar, Opposite Smokehouse Deli, Bengaluru.
Total number of stores in India: 21
Product range: Apparel, bags, belts, accessories
Price range: `400 onwards
Future plans: The brand is expanding to tier -II cities and
will soon launch its e-retail portal
brand tracker
BOF BRAND TRACKER

IMAGES BUSINESS OF FASHION BRINGS THE BOF BRANDTRACKER, A
MONTHLY MONITOR OF FASHION BRANDS AND THEIR RETAIL GROWTH,
WITH THE OBJECTIVE OF PROVIDING A SNAPSHOT ON KEY NATIONAL AND
INTERNATIONAL BRANDS INCLUDING ANURADHA RAMAM, SEIKO, WRAP
STUDIO, SOMA, RAVISSANT
RESEARCH BY: NIPUN AUGUSTINE JACOB, nipunjacob@imagesgroup.in
ANURADHA RAMAM
Launch year: 2004
Parent company: Anuradha Ramam
Country of origin: India (Delhi)
Operating structure: Self owned
Total EBOs: 2
Total MBOs: None
Presence in cities: Delhi
Presence in states: Delhi
Price range: The price range varies
according to the products starting from
`1,800 to `7,500
Maximum sales from regions: Delhi, the
brand also has plans to open a store in
Mumbai.
SEIKO
Launch year: 2007
Parent company: SEIKO Watch Corporation
Country of origin: Japan
Operating structure: SEIKO Watch India, is a fully
owned subsidiary of Seiko Watch Corporation
Total EBOs: 5 (2 in Bengaluru, 1 each in Kolkata,
Chennai and Cochin)
Total MBOs: 350+
Presence in cities: Bengaluru, Kolkata, Chennai
and Cochin
Presence in states: Karnataka, West Bengal,
Tamil Nadu and Kerala
Price range: The price range depends on the
collection, starts from `9,500 to `15,00,000
Maximum sales from regions: North and western
region contributes the most to the sales.
WRAP STUDIO
Launch year: 2000
Parent company: Kashyaps India
Country of origin: India
Operating structure: Company owned
Total EBOs: 1
Total MBOs: None
Presence in cities: Delhi
Presence in states: Delhi
Price range: The products range starts
from `3,000 to `2 lakh
Maximum sales from regions: South Delhi
SOMA
Launch year: 1984
Parent company: Soma Block Print Pvt Ltd
Country of origin: India (Jaipur)
Total EBOs: 6
Total MBOs: None
Presence in cities: Delhi, Jaipur, Udaipur,
Hyderabad, Bengaluru and Cochin
Presence in states: Delhi, Kerala, Rajasthan,
Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh
Price range: The products range starts from
`100 to `8,000
Maximum sales from regions: Northern region
RAVISSANT
Launch year: 1981
Parent company: Ravissant Pvt Ltd
Country of origin: India
Total EBOs: 5 (2 in Delhi and 3 in Mumbai)
Total MBOs: None
Presence in cities: Delhi and Mumbai
Presence in states: Delhi and Maharashtra
Price range: The products range starts from
`4,500 onwards
Maximum sales from regions: Delhi and Mumbai
IMAGES Business of Fashion | April 2014 | 31
my thoughts
ACCESSORIES
POLISHES YOUR
FORMAL LOOK
FOUNDED IN 1989 BY NINA LEKHI,
BAGGIT BAGS CARRY A PERFECT
BLEND OF INNOVATION, ARTISTRY AND
INTERNATIONAL DESIGNS WHICH MAKE
IT POPULAR AMONG ITS CUSTOMERS. A
STRONG BELIEVER OF BEAUTY WITHOUT
CRUELTY LEKHI HAS ALWAYS EMPHASISED
ON USING ECO-FRIENDLY MATERIALS IN
HER BRAND, WHICH HAS WON IT THE PETA
PROGGY AWARD. BAGGIT BRINGS OUT AT
LEAST SIX NEW COLLECTIONS EVERY YEAR,
HENCE IS ALWAYS EXPLORING LATEST
STYLE AND TRENDS FOR ITS CONSUMERS.
Owing to the fact that majority of the population in cities

are working in white collar jobs, for them, a formalwear
or an urbanwear has become an absolute necessity.
However, the tried and tested looks and the plain formalwear
is not enough to bring out ones personality, thus adding a
dash of fashion to everyday look is the need of every working
professional.
There is an old saying which goes like what you wear is what
you are, however, rising costs prevents one from dipping into
ones kitty and buying a new outt every week. Thus, if one uses
accessories with a little smartness one can create different
looks with limited wardrobe.
Based on this thought, generous amount of attention has
been given to attires that make up the holistic personality of an
individual. However, less importance is given to accessories
which actually compliment the entire look and can hold a look
together. While there are a lot of options available for women,
men have limited options where apparels are concerned. This
is where accessories make a huge difference. One can create
different looks with chic and stylish belts, wallets, ofce bags
and laptop bags and in fact one can have a new look every day.
Baggit has its presence in 61 cities across India with 28

exclusive outlets and has presence in 300 multi brand retail
stores. At Baggit, when it comes to men accessories the brand
keeps in mind the appeal of sports look updated with a relaxed
take on city-ready sartorial dressing which is applied to all the
accessories. The important points that needs to be considered
while designing mens collection are:
BELTS: How you carry yourself depends on what you
wear and more importantly what you carry. An accessory
enhances the beauty inside and outside. The belt is the new
tie. The mens formalwear is incomplete without belts. Every
mans wardrobe must have neutral colour belts like black,
brown and dark blue as they can be interchanged and mixmatched in different looks.
WALLETS: Wallet remains an essential purchase which
matches up with a list of very specic requirements. From
the exact number of spaces for credit cards to the size of
a change purse or the correct dimensions to t into the
pocket, the combination of demands are endless. Unlike
girls, men dont change their wallets often. So durability and
functionality play a major role in the designs of wallets. Also
the correct number of pockets is important so that they t
in all the cards. It should not look like a huge bump on your
derrire. Invest in a good wallet that suite your requirements,
style and personality.
OFFICE BAGS OR LAPTOP BAGS: These are used not only
for your ipads or laptops or les but can also be a fashion
statement. The simply-structured bags with focus on luxury
materials have a chic business-wear feel to them. Trends
right now are smooth leathers with matt nish or polished
neutrality predominantly in colours like black, navy blue and
inky darks which are the favourites of this season.
Women generally dont shop for accessories to match their
clothes but they shop for clothes to match the accessories.
They have a lot of variety in terms of both clothes as well as
accessories in comparison to men. The western formalwear
for women this season is a look of condence with personal

quirky style statement. The essential accessories to
complete women formal attire are:
HAND BAGS: For women a handbag is a personal statement,
self-expression, fashion accessory and status symbol all
rolled into one. A lot of thought goes into pairing a particular
bag with a dress. One has more chances of seeing a woman
without make up in ofce but not without her handbag. It
is an inseparable part of womens formal look. In terms of
utility one should choose a bag that has enough space and
enough pockets to hold all things with user friendly handles.
LAPTOP BAGS: Choose one that reects a bit of your
personality while making travelling with your mobile gear
easier to cope with. Women should choose the right laptop
bags based on their needs and not just on price or what
others may have. A smart bag with the right amount of
pockets and zippers will ensure one does not need to carry
another handbag. Choose one that has a comfortable handle
that suits your ensemble as well as is easy on your back.
WALLETS: Women of all age group and profession love to
own a wallet that compliments their formal attire. Usually
women buy wallets on impulse. While functionality is a big
deciding factor in the purchase of a wallet it doesnt hurt to
choose one that reects a sense of style.
Formal accessories are not only for its utility purpose but
also to make a style statement at your work place. At Baggit,
we understand this need of every working professional and
thus try to create a versatile range of formal accessories
collection which will add the oomph factor to your look. BoF
The views expressed in the guest articles are those of the respective authors. The
editor and publisher may not necessarily subscribe to the same.
perspective
EMERGENCE OF
WESTERN
FORMALWEAR
CONSIDERED TO BE AN
ATTIRE FOR OLDER PEOPLE
FORMALWEAR WAS NOT
PERCEIVED AS SMART. BUT
WITH GLOBALISATION AND THE
ADVENT OF INTERNATIONAL
BRANDS IN THE COUNTRY, THE
WHOLE CONCEPT OF DRESSING
UP HAS CHANGED. NOW, A
FORMAL WEAR IS EQUALLY
FASHIONABLE AS THE OTHER
CATEGORIES IN APPAREL.
Mark Twain once said, Clothes make the man. Naked

people have little or no inuence on society.Clothing is
a forceful and highly visible medium of communication
that carries with it the information about who a person is, and
who a person wants to be. While cultural icons and economic
conditions have inuenced changes in mens formal wear,
the purpose of dress has remained the same - strike a
sophisticated and debonair look.
Fashion involves our outward visible lives; is impacted
by the economy; and other events that happen in the world
around us. It does not exist in isolation and all fashion move
in cycles. It is like a wave that peaks and then ebbs. But,
the beauty is, that it comes back and always in an updated
version.
If you look at the categorisation of clothes that people
wear, there are formals, which is a formal shirt and trouser,
with or without a tie or a coat; casual or Friday Dressing
which is a more casual shirt and casual trousers; or could
be jeans teamed with a casual shirt; street shorts, bermudas
and three-fourths with T-shirts or shirts; sportswear is the
new active wear or passive sportswear, occasion which are
the dressy clothes for weddings and functions and leisure
where you can lounge in a draw string trouser or shorts with

either a tee or a shirt and hang out at home or with friends.
Then, of course, you have Indian and western wear.
Indian wear refers to saris, salwar-kurta; any other clothes
that are Indian in origin and western to trousers and suits and
clothes that are western in appeal. But today we also have a
new emerging category called Indo-western wear where one
can mix and match the best of Indian and western wear that
gives glam of the former and the style of the latter.
Indias apparel market is in the throes of change. Rapid
growth and rising urbanisation have spawned a new class of
consumers with more money to spend, and a growing passion
for fashion. In Indias high-growth, fast-changing retail clothing
market, we see signicant new growth opportunities for foreign
and domestic players.
With globalisation and the advent of so many international
brands in the country, the whole concept of dressing up is
gradually changing. The television and internet has made the
whole world a global village and trends are catching up even in
smaller cities. No one wants to be left behind especially when
you can buy the latest styles in India from either the national or
global brands.
OTHER FACTORS CONTRIBUTING TO THE CHANGE

IN CLOTHING PATTERNS ARE:
INCREASE IN DISPOSABLE INCOME: Most families have double
income and hence the disposable income is much higher.
BUYING FOR OCCASIONS: Today, Indians are more inclined than
consumers in other markets to buy apparel for special purposes
like weddings and other celebrations.
NEW OCCASIONS: Lifestyle changes and prosperity have given
the urban Indian male varied usage occasions to dress up for.
Now, with more socialising opportunities, men are buying more
sophisticated combination of outts: party wear, sportswear,
clothes for hanging out at malls etc. Traditionally, men wore a
sherwani, or a suit to formal occasions whether it is a wedding or
board room meeting. But today he is experimenting not only with
different genres of clothing but also with different styles of clothing
which he might not ever have thought of doing. The same goes for
women! But for occasional wear, ethnic clothing is still the most
preferred choice.
WORKING WOMEN: With the growth in working women populace
especially in metros and large cities the entire clothing is evolving
and changing. Ethnic wear is gradually giving way to formal
trousers and shirts, tops, kurtis at least for ofce or formal wear.
Skirts and dresses are the rage with younger population who nd
it more comfortable and fashionable. Previously, mens apparel
market in India has been signicantly larger than the womens
apparel market. With only 20 percent of Indias urban women in
the workforce, womens wardrobes have traditionally been limited
to home wear and items for special occasions. Now, women are
more willing to dress differently when they venture beyond the
hometo shop, for example, or visit a school or ofce.
INCREASE IN FASHION SENSIBILITY: Increasingly, Indian
consumers are embracing the idea of fashion for its own sake,
as a means of self-expression, and not merely as a functional
purchase.
URBANISATION AND YOUNG WORKFORCE: At present, just 29
percent of Indias population resides in cities, but that has been
changing. Over the next 20 years, we expect the number of Indians
living in cities to grow by 300 million, where they will don new
styles and fashions to match new lifestyles. A large percentage
of these new city dwellers will be in their twenties, and making
rst-time choices for whole categories of clothing items including
denims, shirts, and even shoes.
perspective
GROWTH OF TIER -II CITIES: Consumption in smaller cities is fast

growing and the consumers are also getting fashion savvy and conscious.
They also want to wear clothes that they see other people wearing in the
metros. Thus there is a rapid growth of national brands in these cities to
cater to these consumers.
INTERNATIONAL BRANDS IN INDIAN CITIES: Brands like Zara, Uniqlo,
Gap, Mango, Forever 21 are no longer new to the Indian consumers. Now,
you can go and shop in their outlets and buy merchandise which your
contemporaries are wearing all over the world.
The Mecca of bespoke might not be here in India but the experience is,
courtesy the luxury menswear brands that are catering to the Indian
mens newfound zeal to be dapper. The mens ready-to-wear gets a new
sheen and spin with Gucci, Hugo Boss, Salvatore Ferragamo, Armani,
Versace, Brioni, Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali, Corneliani, Alfred Dunhill,
Cadini all in the race to clothe the new sartorially savvy Indian man.
The biggest impact of all the above has been in the clothes that men and
women are wearing to the workplace. Traditionally the workplace was
dominated by men but with more and more women breaking the glass
ceiling, Power Dressing, taking the centre stage. If you observe the attire
that working professional whether men or women wear it is largely
shifting to semi-formal or western formalwear.
SO WHAT IS WESTERN FORMAL WEAR?

Formal wear was dened as the uniform for events
such as debutante balls, symphonies and operas,
and for ceremonies such as weddings. It is a form of
dress that adheres to conservative rules regarding
the cut, colour and t of a garment. Formal attire is
the ensemble of a gentleman, one known for rened
manners and superlative etiquette. Today, the style is
commonly referred to as black tie, which consists of
single or double-breasted jackets, matching trousers,
silk cummerbunds, black silk bow tie and polished
black shoes.
Formalwear was for long considered the attire for
older people and was not perceived as smart. The
main reason was, that fashion had not impacted this
segment of clothing to such a large extent.
But now, the formal segment is also fashionable.
Silhouettes have become sleeker and slimmer and
colours have changed from the usual black, brown
and grey to the more fashionable hues like oranges,
lilacs etc. that keep changing with the seasons. So, in
terms of appeal, it is more attractive to the younger
generation. Moreover, one nds a lot more of the
youngsters sporting formal jackets and suits and
looking really dapper.
FORMAL ATTIRE IS THE ENSEMBLE OF A MAN,

ONE KNOWN FOR REFINED MANNERS AND
SUPERLATIVE ETIQUETTE. TODAY, THE STYLE IS
COMMONLY REFERRED TO AS BLACK TIE, WHICH
CONSISTS OF JACKETS, MATCHING TROUSERS,
SILK CUMMERBUNDS, BLACK SILK BOW TIE AND
POLISHED BLACK SHOES.
perspective
HOLLYWOOD IS
ANOTHER STRONG
INFLUENCER ON THE
WAY PEOPLE DRESS,
FOR EXAMPLE,
DANIEL CRAIG AND
ANGELINE JOLIE IN
TUXEDOS.
Women are gradually moving away from wearing ethnic wear to

work, to experimenting with formal trousers, cotton chinos or jeans
with tops or kurtis or shirts to work. Similarly for formal meetings
women wear jackets and suits. It not only adds to the aura of being
taken more seriously but adds to the fact that they feel more condent
and trendy. Earlier if you wanted to wear a smart jacket or trouser you
had to tailor-make it and the tting and the silhouette would not be up
to your expectations. But now, the consumer is spoilt for choices as so
many international brands have opened stores in India and they showcase
such a vast line of merchandise that the entire mindset of the consumers
have changed. Closer home actor, Shah Rukh Khan and other celebs are
effortlessly carrying off really fancy suits and Tuxedos.
They are now willing to experiment with different silhouettes and also
different types of clothing. So the salwar-kurta wearer has gradually
shifted to wearing jeans with kurtas and has also begun to wear jackets
and suits.
For women, the suit is a statement clothing that helps her to assert
herself amongst men. They are also versatile enough to look either
playful and casual or dressy and glamorous. Women can look ladylike
in a skirt-suit or really business like in a trouser-suit!
Hollywood is another strong inuencer on the way people dress, for
example, Daniel Craig and Angeline Jolie in Tuxedos. While, Victoria
Beckham has her own interpretation of wearing suits that make her
look really sexy. One of the earliest celebs to wear a suit was Marlene
Dietrich when she wore the Tux in a movie called Morocco. After that,
the Tux became a haute favourite in 1966.
According to the market report that you will read in this issue the
menswear market in India is the fastest growing apparel segment. It
is estimated that the western formalwear market in India is worth US$
4,675 million, of which 90 percent is contributed by mens formalwear.
Clearly the men want to look dapper. The fact that it is one of the
fastest growing segment is no surprise considering that the Indian
men have now become experimental. The womens wear segment
which was growing slower than the menswear segment is also fast
catching up and is slowly eating into the pie of branded clothing. The
mens apparel is more westernised unlike womens where even in the
high-end you would see many of them opting for Indian wear. Then
again, the men have always been the prime spenders and are now
nding avenues to explore. Even in cases of equal spending power, by
nature men show a preference for technology and apparel than women
who prefer to spend money on saris.
So western formalwear whether for men or women is here to stay
and become a staple in the wardrobe of the Indian consumer! BoF
ABOUT THE AUTHOR

DR. SANYOGIETAA CHADHA IS THE HEAD OF DEPARTMENT FOR FASHION
DESIGN AT PEARL ACADEMY OF FASHION, DELHI.
THE VIEWS EXPRESSED IN THE GUEST ARTICLES ARE THOSE OF

THE RESPECTIVE AUTHORS. THE EDITOR AND PUBLISHER MAY NOT
NECESSARILY SUBSCRIBE TO THE SAME.
cover story
THE FORMAL
WESTERNWEAR MARKET
IN INDIA
THE FORMAL WESTERN WEAR MARKET IN INDIA IS WORTH US$ 4,675 MILLION, OF
WHICH MENS FORMAL WEAR ACCOUNT FOR 90 PERCENT OF THE MARKET. IT IS
CONCENTRATED MAINLY IN URBAN AREAS, WITH MAJOR CONTRIBUTIONS FROM
METROS AND MINI METROS. AMIT GUGNANI, SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT FOR FASHIONTEXTILE AND APPAREL AND KANTI PRAKASH BRAHMA, SENIOR CONSULTANT FOR
FASHION AT TECHNOPAK ADVISORS, HIGHLIGHTS ON THE BURGEONING MARKET
FOR FORMAL WESTERN WEAR.
The persistent economic uncertainty, coupled with a perception of policy paralysis and the
possibilities of a change in government, has negatively impacted the growth of business
activities in India. The annual GDP growth, which was consistently hovering around 7-9
percent between 2003-04 and 2010-11, slumped to 6.2 percent in 2011-12 and 5 percent in 201213. Industrial growth also dipped to as low as 2 percent, with the mining and quarrying sector
registering -0.5 percent and manufacturing a mere 1 percent growth. This decline in growth has in
turn dampened consumer condence and lowered discretionary spending among different consumer
groups. With spending on fashion also being discretionary, the growth of the fashion apparel category
has also slowed down noticeably in recent years. The formalwear category is no exception to this
trend. However, it is expected that, following the general elections of 2014, business and economic
activities will return to the growth track, and thereby further the growth of western formal wear in the
country.
In India, the western formalwear market can be broadly split into two categories, viz. business wear
or ofce wear, which includes formal shirts, trousers, suits, skirts, dresses, etc. and event-specic
formal wear, which includes formal clothing worn at such events as weddings, proms, awards
ceremonies, product launch events, etc. Though the former forms the larger chunk of the market, the
latter is relatively less impacted by the economic slowdown.
THE WESTERN FORMALWEAR MARKET
It is estimated that the western formalwear market in India is worth US$ 4,675 million, of which 90
percent is contributed by mens formal wear. Again, these numbers are not inclusive of the size of
rental services available for occasion or event-specic formal wear. The blurring of the difference
between casual wear and formal wear makes the categorisation of certain products difcult.
The western formal wear market is concentrated in urban areas, with major contributions from
metros and mini metros. The size of the womens formal wear market is relatively low due to two
primary reasons: the skewed ratio of working women to working men and the strong competition
from ethnic wear categories as saris, salwar-kameez, etc.
The evolution of fusion wear, which combines the attributes of womens ethnic wear with formal
western wear, is emerging as an additional challenge for womens western formal wear players.
cover story
DISTRIBUTION OF MENS FORMAL

WESTERWEAR MARKET
12%
53%
35%
DISTRIBUTION OF WOMENS FORMAL

WESTERWEAR MARKET
20%
48%
33%
SHIRTS
TROUSERS
SUITS
MENS WESTERN FORMALWEAR

Formal shirts, trousers, and suits dominate the US$ 4,320 million-worth mens
formal western wear market, which is also relatively organised. Formal shirts
dominate the mens formal western wear market with a share of 53 percent,
followed by trousers at 35 percent, and suits at 12 percent.
In addition to the readymade garment segment, mens formal suits market also
encompasses bespoke tailoring. In the super premium and premium segments
within mens suits, consumers are very specic about the quality of the material
used, as well as about the overall look and t of the garment. The organised bespoke
model has evolved to cater to demand from customers who are willing to pay a
premium in order to avail their desired attire. Thanks to the increasing presence
of multinational companies and the growing business environment, the bespoke
formalwear market in India now sees a demand for high-end premium shirts,
trousers, and suits tailored to t customers body dimensions and using fabrics from
manufacturers of international repute like Dormeuli, Ermenegildo Zegna, Brioni, Sic
Tess, Scabal, Holland and Sherry, John Foster, etc.
WOMENS WESTERN FORMALWEAR
The womens western formal wear market, though relatively smaller in size, has
registered newer opportunities in recent years. As with mens western formal wear,
formal shirts is the largest segment within womens formal western wear as well,
followed by trousers and suits.
Both Indian and international fashion retailers have been focusing on the menswear
market until recently. With the increasing presence of women in the corporate
world, and the rising exposure of Indian women to ofce wear from various
countries, womens formal western wear market has started evolving much faster.
In addition to traditional womens western formal wear brands and retailers, many
casual wear brands and retailers have also started adding these products to their
portfolios.
Thus, Indian women no longer restrict themselves to saris and salwar-kameez. They
see themselves at par with their western counterparts in terms of organisational
hierarchy and realise the importance of business attire in ofce and business
meetings. Although Indian women continues to dress themselves in saris and
salwar-kameez for formal occasions, yet the usage of western formal wear is
expected to register higher growth rates compared to the traditional categories
cover story
KEY TRENDS IN FORMAL WESTERNWEAR

FORMAL WEAR CATEGORIES WILL GROW SLOWER THAN CASUAL WEAR
The growing demand for apparel offering higher comfort, better design, and trendy
look at affordable prices is a worldwide phenomenon, with India being no exception.
Additionally, technology and innovation-driven companies have started allowing
casual wear in ofce spacesthe growing demand for knitwear apparel is one
reection of this trend. It is expected that in India, T-shirts and denim markets will
grow at double-digit rates over the next ve years, whereas the corresponding rates
for formalwear categories like shirts, woven trousers, suits, etc. will be in the range of
3-8 percent.
WESTERN FORMAL WEAR MARKET WILL REMAIN STRONG DESPITE SLOWER
GROWTH
Consumers of medium to high-end formal wear and occasion specic formal wear
are expected to remain loyal to the category, with a lower propensity of shifting to
casual clothing. Many business leaders and professional services companies consider
the classic business attire as a necessity in a serious business environment. Aspiring,
middle-aged Indian consumers, working in corporate roles, are expected to stick to
business attire and thereby indicate their ambition of climbing the corporate ladder.
CONSUMERS TO EXPERIMENT EVEN IN THE FORMAL FASHION SPACE
In the mens category, consumers who normally do not experiment much with
fashion are also expected to tinker with fabric design, bre content, fabric nishing,
apparel design, colour, and t even for their formalwear. The increasing acceptance
of cotton suits is one indication of such experimentation whereby consumers bring in
comfort and a casual look at comparatively lower prices. The rise in sales of slim-t
shirts and trousers also reects the trend of experimenting with formal wear. The
designing of collars, cuffs, etc are also expected to undergo frequent changes with a
view to improve the formal look.
MAJORITY OF THE
POPULATION IS
SPECIFIC WHEN IT
COMES TO DRESSING
FOR AN OCCASION,
WHETHER IT IS
ACTIVE WEAR FOR
GYM, FORMAL WEAR
IN THE OFFICE,
JEANS AND TEES
WHEN SHOPPING,
AND NIGHTWEAR
FOR SLEEP
PRIVATE LABELS PROMISE OPPORTUNITIES FOR VALUE-CONSCIOUS

CONSUMERS
The slowing of growth and persistent economic pressure has turned the middleclass consumer more value-conscious. Business executives in non-client-facing
roles or in the junior to mid-manager levels are now opting to trade down. It is thus
expected that some consumers now perceive value solely through affordability.
Consequently, private labels, which offer formal clothing at an affordable price, have
started witnessing comparatively higher growth. Some brands are also banking upon
discounts and promotions to lure bargain hunting customers.
THE ASPIRING YOUTH WILL CONTRIBUTE THE MOST TO THE GROWTH OF FORMAL
WEAR
India has over 700 million people in the age bracket of 15-54 years who form 59
percent of the countrys total population. This younger population has a heightened
awareness of the latest fashion statements and is ambitious in terms of career
choices. The majority of this population is also very specic when it comes to dressing
for an occasion, whether it is active wear for the gym, formal wear in the ofce,
jeans and tees when shopping, and nightwear for sleep. Despite a penchant towards
casual clothes many customers within this aspirational group dress themselves
appropriately for business meetings and formal events like marriages and award
ceremonies.
cover story
WOMENS WESTERN FORMAL WEAR IS POISED FOR HIGH GROWTH

Womens employment in the organised sector has increased from 4.9 million, in 2002, to 5.9
million, in 2011. This corresponds to an increase in the share of women employed to the total
employment in the organised sector, from 18.2 percent, in 2002, to 20.5 percent, in 2011. This
trend is expected to continue in the coming years as well. On a positive note, 11 percent of
Indian companies have women CEOs[ Source: Survey by EMA Partners]. Interestingly, among
companies on the Fortune 500 list in the US, only 3 percent have women CEOs. The success
stories of Indian women who are business executives and managers will provide additional
impetus to other women in business organisations. The growth in the number of employed
women will in turn spur the growth of womens western formal wear.
THE TREND OF GIFTING FORMAL WESTERN WEAR IS GAINING MOMENTUM
Typical formal dresses are increasingly seen as a suitable gift for people working in
corporations. Many formalwear brands have therefore started offering gift vouchers, which are
slowly gaining acceptance among parents, friends, spouses, etc. Many corporations also use
such solutions for rewarding employees or as wedding and birthday gifts.
THE RELATIVELY UNNOTICED MARKET FOR FORMAL ACCESSORIES WILL ATTRACT MORE
CONSUMERS
The desire to stick to perfect formal attire, especially in specic events like award ceremonies,
marriage functions, etc. forces consumers to be more selective in their choice of accessories,
be it ties, belts, wallets, pocket squares, or cufinks, for men, or handbags, scarves, stockings,
etc. for women. The formal wear market has only recently graduated from unbranded clothing
to branded clothing; soon, the use of appropriate accessories will also gather momentum.
CORPORATIONS HAVE STARTED CONSIDERING CUSTOMISED FORMAL WEAR FOR
EMPLOYEES
The customisation of formal wear by organisations provides them scope for inculcating
a sense of ownership among employees. Shirts or suits with corporate logos, colours, or
specic styles, which reect the values and beliefs of the organisation, sometimes act as a
morale booster for employees, reminding them of their ofcial duties and obligations. Even
sports federations across the country are customising their formal wear for senior executives
and ofce bearers.
CONCLUSION
Despite the global trend for casual clothes, formal wear is expected to remain the
preferred attire for business meetings, formal weddings, and special functions.
Additionally, certain professional services will continue to stay away from adopting
casual wear in business environments. For manufacturers and retailers, the formal
wear market will remain an opportunity given the growth of long-term business activities
in India. Again, the formal wear market is expected to see a lot of experimentation in
terms of fabric design, application-specic nishes like crease resistance, wrinkle-free
fabric, stain release, etc. The widening, high-end bespoke market for formal wear is yet
another growth opportunity on which players can cash in. The continued success of the
formal wear market will depend on the ability of brands and retailers to demarcate their
customer segments through a granular understanding of their customers and tailoring
their product offerings as per customers demand. Players offering formalwear products
should thus view their offering not just as a product but as a complete solution for the
consumer who seeks formal attire. BoF
lead story
CREATING
WESTERN FORMAL WEAR
FOR INDIA
PERCHANCE IT IS TIME TO REVISE AN OLD ADAGE - WHEN IN THE GLOBAL ORDER, DO AS
THE GLOBAL ORDER DOES! AS INDIA MOVES AHEAD AND EMBRACES GLOBAL CHANGES
AND DISCOVERS ITS PLACE IN THE GLOBAL ORDER, AND MOVES FROM BEING A NATION
OF SHOP-KEEPERS TO ORGANISED BUSINESS CULTURES, THIS ISSUE OF IMAGES
BUSINESS OF FASHION TALKS TO SEVERAL INDUSTRY LEADERS AND TAKES A CLOSER
LOOK AT WESTERN FORMAL WEAR TO TRACE ITS CURRENT DYNAMICS AND ITS GROWTH
OVER THE YEARS.
BY ZAINAB MORBIWALA
MANUFACTURERS MANTRAS
Aptly sharing the context for the story to talk about what is in vogue when it comes to preferred choice of
fabric for western formal wear in India, Abhijeet Ganguly, head, Grasim from Aditya Birla says, In mens
formal wear while the hero is the fabric, brands have to keep reinventing themselves by coming up with quality
offerings which are in sync with what discerning consumers are seeking for as their wardrobe solutions. In the
last two decades and more specically in recent years the dynamics of fabrics have changed to keep pace with
changing consumer expectations which vary from season to season. Talking to yet another prominent player
from the category of fabric manufacturers, BSL Ltd that produces PV and PW blended fabric, 60 percent of which
goes out to various markets in the world. JC Soni, business head, BSL Ltd shares, Most of the fabric that we
produce is used for formal wear. If you ask me what is in trend as of now, then without doubt people want fabric
that is comfortable and looks good. Another trend is of party and occasion wear and Lycra is used to add to the
comfort factor. Also, the usage of new bres (lament included) has changed the
appearance of the fabrics and Chinese fabrics too have made a signicant in-road in
suits fabric.
The name behind the brand Being Human, Mandhana Industries Ltd has an
annual yarn dyeing capacity of 6,500 tons, a weaving capacity of 45 million meters
and a processing capacity of 55 million meters. Mandhana offers a wide variety
of fabrics within solid dyed, printed and yarn-dyed segments across categories
such as cambric, voile, poplin, twill, sateen and dobbies. Its core product offering
in textile for yarn-dyed fabric includes stripes, checks and dobbies. Within this 60
percent are aimed at the casualwear segment and the rest 40 percent are suited to
the western formal category. Elaborating on the manufacturing at Mandhana, Rahul
Anand its managing director shares, Given the global environmental scenario
and an endeavour to stay relevant, at Mandhana there is a thrust on developing
sustainable textiles. We have introduced tencel in different variations and content
mixes, which have seen a great response. Recycled polyester is another such fabric
we have introduced and hope it generates favourable reviews from the markets.
Donear having its presence across the globe, since the last three decades ranks
in top brands league in textile industry and has under its portfolio brands like DCot
and Donear NXG which were launched in 2007 and 2010 respectively. Ajay Agarwal,
executive director, Donear shares, Donear has manufacturing capacity of 50 million
meters per year, while its apparel brand DCot has 175 EBOs and Donear NXG has 75
EBOs, all of them are via franchisee route. As we are youth focused brand, our formal
attire is 40 percent while casual is 60 percent, in our case formal as a category has
been consistent in delivering performance. Citing the signicant changes seen
recently in menswear, Agarwal points out, The collars have become smaller in
length. There are a lot of varieties in terms of semi-cut away collars, cut-away,
button down, plackets have become slimmer, skin and patch fusing are being used,
labels are being replaced with branding embroideries. It started more after 2004.
With the growing thrust on western formals for men, Vardhman Textiles Ltd
has gone ahead to develop a portfolio catering to this category. As pointed out by
Mukesh Bansal, vice president, Vardhman Textiles, Due to changes in market
trend, we also have developed a lot of mens wear formal application products for
shirts and trousers. Until recently the main focus of fashion industry was mainly
towards womens wear. But for the last couple of years, the mens category seems
to be picking the pace across markets whether it is apparel or skin care products
or accessories. Amongst the apparel, of course, fabric surface, feel, touch and
appearance play a major role, which is why there is a lot of scope for innovation in
this category.
Arvind Ltd which is in to manufacturing and retailing is strengthening its back-end
by setting up of an apparel park through its subsidiary, Arvind Garment Park Pvt
Ltd. The apparel park will come over an area of 300 acres at Gandhinagar and is
expected to be commissioned by March 2015. Arvind Ltd is also planning to invest
around `125 crore for a garment manufacturing plant with a capacity of 9 million
pieces. Expected to commission in next 12 months, the apparel manufacturing plant
will garner expected revenue of `600 crore.
Fabric major Raymonds recently had a strategic tie-up with Australian rm the
Woolmark Company to launch a complete all-weather cool wool collection. In a media
statement, Peter Ackroyd, global strategic advisor, Woolmark Company says, India
has tropical climate and customers avoid wearing woolen garments in summers
as they identify the fabric with winters. Indian customers need to understand the
true potential, versatility and the benets of using wool in summers. Raymond
also launched 20 garments collection designed by Gaurav Gupta and according to
company ofcials, the premium cool wool ranges start at `1,500 per meter.
INDIA HAS
TROPICAL CLIMATE
AND CUSTOMERS AVOID
WEARING WOOLEN
GARMENTS IN SUMMERS
AS THEY CLEARLY
IDENTIFY THE FABRIC
WITH WINTERS. INDIAN
CUSTOMERS NEED TO
UNDERSTAND THE TRUE
POTENTIAL, VERSATILITY
AND THE BENEFITS
OF USING WOOL IN
SUMMERS.
PETER ACKROYD
WOOLMARK CO.
lead story
COMPANIES
SHOULD BUILD
STRONG BRANDS
AND MAINTAIN
CONSISTENT
PRODUCT QUALITY,
ALONG WITH
CORRECT PRICING.
THEY SHOULD
KEEP COSTS AND
OVERHEADS IN
CHECK, DO NOT
OVER-EXPAND,
DO NOT WORK
WITH UNRELIABLE
VENDORS OR
COMPROMISE ON
QUALITY.
SHITANSHU
JHUNJHUNWALA
TURTLE LIMITED
BRAND SPEAK
With a state-of-the-art manufacturing units at
Kolkata and Bengaluru, having internationalquality machines, technology and stringent quality
control measures in place, the brand Turtle has
a capacity to produce over 1,00,000 shirts and
25,000 trousers per month. Shares, Shitanshu
Jhunjhunwala, director, Turtle Ltd, Formal wear
used to comprise more than 80 percent of our
product mix but this has been declining over the
years. With changing customer preferences and
increased exposure to global fashion trends,
people are experimenting with their looks in the
workplace so the lines between formals and
casuals will become more blurred in the times
to come. Today, the mantra is to dress smart.
Western formal wear has denitely become
trendier and fashion forward. There is a relaxed
element to it now. He further says, When we talk
of western formals, the image of an impeccably
dressed European or a British gentleman
instantly comes to our minds. Earlier, this used to
be very orthodox and traditional but now its more
of a cross-over look with relaxed formals that is
in vogue. However, around 75 percent of fabric
bases are still pique, satin, herringbone or cavalry
in colours like grey, fawn, mauve, and navy with
the regular black and white.
Reiterating the growing popularity of smart
wear is Amitabh Suri, chief operating ofcer of
Indian Terrain. Talking about the dynamics of
western formal wear, Suri insists, The usage of
the term western formal wear is an extremely
outdated concept. Apparel today has a new
denition which has a lot to do with emerging
lifestyles and consumer choices example
denim, sportswear, smart casuals, evening
line, etc. Mens formals could have a sartorial
representation as well as core basic inexpensive
clothing. Apparel has now begun to differentiate
on consumer price platforms - economy to
mid-segment, premium, super premium,
bridge-to-luxury and luxury. He further explains,
The Indian man in the urban towns of India has
always adapted well to western clothing, the
real shift has taken place in the tier -II and -III
towns, western wear got popular with the advent
of denim clothing endorsed by the Bollywood
culture, In 2002, the phase of denim revolution in
India, signicantly changed the way men shopped.
The rise of malls and growing market places have
also helped in the same, however, western formal
wear is an urban phenomena and has little role
to play in the tier -II and -III markets, with the

exception of wedding seasons.
Rajnish Sethia, director, Agwani Fashions Pvt
Ltd which has a ready-to-wear brand suCCess is
of the opinion that the line between classic and
fashion has become thin. People have started
recognising that a classic can be accessorised
and worn with different styling and there may not
be a need to buy new everytime an occasion crops
up. The customers with mature taste continue
to keep basic with western formal wear while the
youngsters are making their presence felt with
formalwear with newer details, colours and cuts.
Sethia shares, Our current share of formal wear
in our product mix is 35 percent. It has dipped 5
percent as it was 40 percent till last year.
With brands like Van Heusen, Louis Phillipe,
Allen Solly and Peter England; Madura Garments
is one of the leading names in the category of
western formal wear for men and women, has
been increasing its network of stores across
India. After the parent group Aditya Birla Nuvo Ltd
buying out Future Groups Pantaloon, the brands
shall now have a wider reach by being available
across all Pantaloon stores as well.
In a recent development, Arvind Brands and
Retail Ltd, a divison of textile major Arvind Ltd
entered into a joint venture with PVH Corp,
owner of the international brand Calvin Klein, to
distribute the latters apparel and accessories in
India. The joint venture will focus on the expansion
lead story
IN FABRIC
MANUFACTURING
BUSINESS, IN ORDER
TO SUSTAIN AND
PROSPER, BUILDING
A STRONG BRAND
IS OF IMMENSE
IMPORTANCE.
ONE NEEDS TO
RELIGIOUSLY
FOCUS OF
PRODUCT QUALITY
STANDARDS AND
CONFORMANCE
WHILE ENSURING
TIMELY DELIVERIES
TO CUSTOMERS.
ABHIJEET GANGULY
GRASIM
and enhancement of the existing Calvin Klein

Jeans apparel and accessories (including belts,
bags, and small leather goods) and Calvin Klein
underwear (including sleepwear and loungewear)
businesses. According to an interview Sanjay
Lalbhai, CMD, of Arvind Ltd said, Calvin Klein is
one of the strongest fashion brands in the world
and we are delighted to be partners with PVH
for Calvin Klein in India. This relationship also
strengthens our 20 year association with PVH,
which started with ARROW license and has since
been extended to our joint venture with PVH for
Tommy Hilger business and the license for IZOD.
SOURCING WORRIES
Citing the challenges that apparel manufacturers
face when it comes to sourcing fabrics, Suri
minces no words when he says, Yes
and no. We do face certain challenges.
We source 75 percent from India
and continue to source 25 percent
from overseas markets. Some of
the expectations that we have from
the fabric manufacturers included consistent quality, on time delivery,
value added innovations, ability to run
JIT programs (Just In Time), credit
window, etc. The biggest challenge
that Suri sees hampering this category
is the supply chain. He points out, The
expansion story for any brand often
fails if the supply chain does not expand
simultaneously. Another challenge is the
inability to launch lifestyle accessories (of
equivalent quality standards). On behalf of
Turtle, Jhunjhunwala shares, Overseas
sourcing has denitely facilitated
greater diversication in terms of
product development. So, in addition
to sourcing fabrics within India, we
also buy from outside for certain
specialised products. Expectations
from a sourcing point of view are
season-wise developments with
proper colour trends, globalisation
should be accompanied with local
taste and favouritism in terms of design
collection, innovation in terms of cost
effectiveness and perceived value of
the fabric, time bound deliveries and
continuous development in terms
of quality as well as eco-friendly
activities.
WESTERNWEAR FOR WOMEN

Where men limit the use of traditional Indian
wear for occasions in family and during festive
seasons, traditional Indian wear for women which
comprises mostly of saris and salwar suits is
well accepted as formal wear thus giving a stiff
competition to western formal wear. But things
are changing and the market is witnessing a
growth in the acceptance of western formals for
women as well. With more and more international
brands and an international working culture
setting in, the custom of customised uniforms for
the staff is being widely accepted and adopted.
Saris more or less remain conned to hospitality
sector but when it comes to modern retail and
several other sectors, majority of the sales staff
is expected to sport western wear and this is
one reason why we can expect the category
of western formal wear in India showing a
healthy growth.
Ganguly points out, However women
shoppers across metros and smaller
cities are increasingly opting for western
wear, helping bolster sales for branded
clothing. Traditionally an underserviced
market, womens western wear
is getting traction and wider
acceptance on account of
increasing disposable incomes,
and more women joining the
workforce and dressing
smart, but, having said that,
womens western formal
wear is characterised by
very varied consumer
tastes and ever changing
fashion trends. Compared
to mens apparel segment, the
market for womens wear is
characterised by a greater degree
of complexity and diversity owing
to the need for availability of wider
range of clothing products and
accessories.
When it comes to fabric
for womens western
formal wear, Soni feels
that the fabric should be
soft, smooth, bright and
stretchable. Reiterating
on the growing popularity
of the stretch factor,
Shalendra Vasudeva,
lead story
THE LANDSCAPE
OF FORMAL WEAR
CATEGORY IN INDIA
HAS SEEN A DYNAMIC
CHANGE IN LAST
COUPLE OF YEARS.
THE DEMAND FOR
MORE COMFORTABLE
AND FASHIONABLE
CLOTHES HAVING
GOOD STRETCH
QUALITIES IS ON
A HIGH. TODAY,
CONSUMERS ARE
MORE AWARE AND
WELL CONNECTED
SO THEY ARE MORE
SPECIFIC WITH
THEIR NEEDS AND
DEMANDS.
SHALENDRA
VASUDEVA,
INDORAMA INDUSTRIES
LTD
chief marketing ofcer, Indorama Industries

Ltd, points out, The landscape of western
formal wear category in India has seen a
dynamic change in last couple of years and the
demand for more comfortable and fashionable
clothes having good stretch qualities is on a
high. Consumers today are more aware, well
connected and travelled, so they have become
more specic with their needs and demands.
Garments made with Inviya are becoming a rage
especially with women who are opting for more
fashionable western formal wear like bodycon
dresses, cocktail dresses, evening gowns,
corporate suits, leggings, stockings etc. Inviya
is a new age spandex bre which is used in
conjunction with other natural and man-made
bres to create high end garments is catering to
the rising demand of western formal wear and
lending them remarkable properties of stretch,
shape, comfort and freedom of movement.
The demand for such fashionable garments
has doubled the consumption of spandex in the
Indian textile market in the last three years. After
receiving overwhelming response to our products
we shall be entering into our second phase
of expansion this year to cater to these rising
demands, he further said.
Suri has some strong words of advice for the
manufacturers of western formal wear for Indian
women. He highlights, Western formals as a
copy and paste from the west would not have a
very big market considering the body types of
women in India. Indo- western clothing however,
has a great potential, if they are made well.
According to Jhunjhunwala, Womens wear has
tremendous scope for growth as its still a largely
untapped market. It is already contributing around
25-30 percent of revenues to some leading
brands. Considering that increasing number of

women now joining the corporate and service
sectors, the demand for western formal wear is
bound to grow signicantly.
Women today are getting increasingly aware
and comfortable with western wear as an option
to dress in. This change in dynamics could also
be attributed to the exposure and availability of
numerous international brands within the country
catering to this segment, both formal and casual.
Elaborating on the differentiating factor for men
and women wear fabric for western formals,
Anand points out, A good drape, lightweight and
breathability are the desired traits in fabrics for
womens wear whether it is for formal or casual
wear. Another big difference vis--vis menswear
textile is that women prefer a bit of stretch in their
fabric for both top and bottom wear for it provide
comfort and t. Earlier during the year, Aditya
Birla Group launched womens fusion and western
label, Liva. As shared to the media by Manohar
Samuel, president - marketing and business
development at Birla Cellulose, a part of the Aditya
Birla Group that provides viscose to large apparel
makers globally; although ethnic wear is more
popular in India, the company wanted to bridge a
gap in the market for western wear. In his view, the
womens western clothing market is growing at
30 percent CAGR. With the entry of international
brands, the demand will surge, mentioned
Samuel.
Traditionally catering to mens formal wear,
brands like Arrow and Van Heusen are today
focusing great efforts on womens western
formal wear and the very fact that Van Heusen
has exclusive stores catering to western formals
for women shows the growing potential of this
category.
lead story
GIVEN
THE GLOBAL
ENVIRONMENTAL
SCENARIO AND AN
ENDEAVOUR TO
STAY RELEVANT,
THERE IS A THRUST
ON DEVELOPING
SUSTAINABLE
TEXTILES. WE
HAVE INTRODUCED
TENCEL IN
DIFFERENT
VARIATIONS
AND CONTENT
MIXES. RECYCLED
POLYESTER
IS ANOTHER
FABRIC WE HAVE
INTRODUCED.
RAHUL ANAND
MANDHANA
INDUSTRIES LTD.
CREATING FASHION TRENDS & INFLUENCERS

When it comes to fabric, the major inuencer
remains the innovation done by R&D team to
produce fabrics that extend a comfortable wear
and remain high on quality. Ganguly shares,
With the changing perspective of people towards
apparels, we see a trend of more and more
people going in for semi-formals and casual
weekend looks which they can easily carry off at
any occasion be it a party, ofce-meeting or any
leisure activity. As far as colours, designs and
patterns are concerned, people are opting for
bright colours, checks and prints. Adding further
on the in-house culture adopted at Grasim,
he shares, Our brand Grasim has emerged
from a fabric to a trendsetter in fashionable
branded apparels. To some extent the designs
are inuenced from international culture but
predominantly the patterns, colours and fabrics
are according to the current trends in the
domestic market. Bansal too reiterates that
there is an element of western inuence when it
comes to designs but when we talk about fabric,
the Indian market behaves differently as retailers
prefer rich cotton products than value products.
Accepting that fashion trends usually receive
their inspiration from European world, Agarwal
shares, Fashion that is widely accepted is
from South European countries. Yes, we do an
intensive research from these places. Our R&D
team takes care of these. Before planning every
season they identify the macro trends and we
put in a lot of resources in getting the product
dynamics right.
At BSL, the group has a team of international
designers who ensure that their product
is in sync with the market demands. On
what allows BSL have an edge over its
competitors, Soni says, We have a very
good range of Lycra based fabric for
womens wear.
Jhunjhunwala states, The
international fashion trends are
denitely the most important
inuencers, but we have to be
careful when adopting them for the Indian
market. One has to modify and customise
these trends for the target customers
keeping in mind their preferences like DNA
of the brand, along with other demographic
and psychographic parameters. Trends
are forecasted seasonally. Fairs,
exhibitions, books, reports and websites
are the usual reference sources of studying
these international trends. The data is then

ltered and only the relevant inferences are taken
forward and worked upon.
The team at Agwani Fashions Pvt Ltd actively
participates in workshops conducted by
organisations such as WGSN and the design team
regularly visits trade fairs, retail summits and
design workshops.
CLASSICS-PERENNIAL FAVOURITES
Just as gold jewellry in India will never lose its
sheen or a local restaurant serving traditional
authentic food will still give a stiff competition
to an international fast-food chain, there are
colours, fabrics and design that would remain
evergreen. The black suit, for instance, will always
be a part of mens wardrobe irrespective of what
is in vogue. Ganguly opines, In todays context the
only constant in fashion is change nevertheless
fabrics that remain evergreen in terms of
consumer demand are PV blends, PW blends,
linen blends and cotton blends. In terms of
colours the classic colours like grey, blue, black
and white continues to be popular. According to
Kumat, Black, blue, brown shade with a price
range of `250 to `300 per meter with shine and
drape are always in demand.
On the fabrics that would remain evergreen
according to Bansal, These have to be twill,
poplin, canvas and satin are always in demand
whereas white, black, blue for both men and
women are the colours that would always remain
in vogue.
Talking about fabrics in vogue when it comes
to western wear, Suri shares, In India cottons is
still the king, linen is gaining popularity largely
because of the fact that it is both comfortable
and is considered premium, worsted and woolen
fabrics are largely consumed as fabrics and are
tailored, in readymade garments but they have
very small market share.
According to Anand, When it comes to look
lead story
THE MAJOR
CHALLENGE WE
FACE WHILE
DESIGNING FORMAL
WEAR IN INDIA
IS THE FIT AND
ACCEPTANCE
OF NEWER
SILHOUETTES OR
COLOURS, WHILE
CUSTOMERS
ABROAD ARE
WILLING TO
CHANGE MOODS
WITH RESPECT
TO COLOURS AND
SILHOUETTE AND
BREAK RULES
WHEN IT COMES
TO DECORUM TO
DRESS FOR AN
OCCASION.
RAJNISH SETHIA,
SUCCESS,
and feel of the fabric, stripes and plaids work as

evergreen products for men whereas women have
an afnity to solid colours and printed textiles.
With regards to colours, beige, grey, blue and
black are popular for men hence consequently
are in constant demand while green, yellow, pink
and black are popular colours for women. Cotton
is constantly in demand as it is well suited and
ideal for the Indian climatic conditions. We also
offer many blends with other ber contents for
novelty products.
CHANGING MARKET DYNAMICS
With fashion trends changing at a drop of a
hat, it becomes imperative for anyone in the
business of fashion to remain abreast with
the changing market dynamics. A breath of
relief here is provided by various B2B shows
held around the year for a clear forecast into
what would be in vogue. Ganguly explains,
With the increasing competition in the global

textile and apparel industry and the binding
provisions of international regulations imposed
by local market, several textile and apparel
manufacturers worldwide are focusing on
trade shows to expand their trade boundaries,
to introduce new products and to build new
business relations. A few of the important ones
are Intertextile Guangzhou, Hometextile China,
Technotex India and In Fashion India. For Soni,
the not-to-miss names when it comes to B2B
fairs include PV and Texworld in Europe and
Shangaitex.
On the ever changing fashion trends, Suri feels,
Trends are all about the environment one lives in
and which are cross functional, while we do look
at trends from fashion magazines and fashion
and style forecasts, the brand too needs to do
research on its consumers and see things from
their perspective, sometimes fashion can be too
fast and does not allow an existing trend to reach
its true potential.
Commenting on the current trends seen in
western formal wear for men, Abhay Kumat from
Kamadgiri Fashion Ltd points out, Even though
mens fashion does not change much yet shine
is a factor that has come across as important in
all fabrics. Drape and cotton feel is a must. Lycra
is coming for more comfort. The most important
inuencers are its visible appeal, utility appeal
and nancial or economical appeal.
On the practices followed at Vardhman to
remain abreast with the changing market
dynamics, Bansal shares, We have a dedicated
product development centre, where 300 people
are employed on design, product analyses and
pilot plant. The innovation is a continuous process
like a nervous system to the human body. Our
lead story
THE COLLARS
HAVE BECOME
SMALLER IN
LENGTH. THERE
ARE LOT OF
VARIETIES
IN TERMS OF
SEMI-CUT AWAY
COLLARS, CUTAWAY, BUTTON
DOWN, PLACKETS
HAVE BECOME
SLIMMER, SKIN
AND PATCH FUSING
ARE BEING USED,
LABELS ARE
BEING REPLACED
WITH BRANDING
EMBROIDERIES.
IT STARTED MORE
AFTER 2004.
AJAY AGARWAL,
DONEAR
designers are from major fashion hubs of the

world, we have tie-up with a reputed European
design house and subscribe many international
design magazines and visit websites for design
forecast. We bring about two seasonal collections
for spring summer and fall winter. Latest trends
are microstructure fabrics, geometric patterns
in fabric, performance nishes like easy care
shirts, stain free, moisture management is back
in demand in Indian market. In womens formals
rayons are in high demand with drapy and soft
hand-feel.
Anand reveals, We at Mandhana follow global
trends very closely and employ forecasting
agencies of global repute and reach. Most of the
inputs come from international buyers as well as
the teams international exposure that helps us
interpret the trend and adapt the same into our
collections. There has been a surge in demand for
viscose bases in womens wear recently. Tencel,
modal and viscose are quite popular in demand
internationally not only for western wear but also
for casual wear. We have developed a special
blend of cotton, polyester and Lycra that has an
excellent drape, luxurious and soft with quick
drying properties. It is a great product for formal
wears for women.
Not sounding too pleased with the quality of
B2B fairs, Anand feels that off late the B2B fairs
in the recent years seem to have lost their sheen,
but having said that, he also advocates some fairs
like Premier Vision in Paris and Bread & Butter
in Berlin which his teams like to visit to get an
overview of upcoming trends in the textile and
apparel industry.
On the fabrics most in vogue and demand,
Agarwal shares, Nowadays people prefer lot of
structures and dobbies over just a plain view. The

coarseness has given weight to ne double ply
fabrics.
THE DIVERSITY PARADIGM
There exist many Indias within India! Ask any
major retailer what his biggest challenge is and
pat comes the reply that it is catering to people
belonging to various cultures and communities.
In fact within a 10 km radius, the taste and
preferences differ so we can imagine the task
of creating something that is widely accepted
across the country. Smilarly, Anand shares, The
weather patterns in our country are very different
from region to region is a known fact. We believe
this contributes majorly to the change in tastes
and preferences of the consumers. Though there
is not a prominent marked difference between
regional markets in India in western wear
category, yet some preferences do change across
regions on a macro level. While northern parts
of India prefer brighter colours, south is subtler.
In terms of textiles, we notice a higher demand
for more compact and heavier qualities from the
north and more open weave and softer textiles
from the south.
Ganguly shares, Broadly consumer tastes and
preferences do vary from region to region and
within cities as well. In fact, consumers living in
major metros like Delhi and Mumbai are more
exposed to the latest trends and designs hence
are more prone to experimenting with new fabrics
of different shades and hues. For youngsters
lead story
ALWAYS HAVE
A CORE LINE,
ALWAYS KEEP THE
FITS AND QUALITY
CONSISTENT, KEEP
THE EXISTING
CUSTOMER HAPPY
(EVEN IF IT IS
AT THE COST OF
ACQUIRING A NEW
CUSTOMER);
DONT INNOVATE
FOR THE SAKE OF
INNOVATION, AND
DONT FEAR TO
INNOVATE.
AMITABH SURI
INDIAN TERRAIN
WE WORK
VERY CLOSELY
WITH FIBER
AND FILAMENT
MANUFACTURERS
IN ADDITION
TO CHEMICAL
MANUFACTURERS.
J C SONI,
BSL LTD,
there is a constant pressure to adapt to the latest

fashions in fabrics, designs and colours - this
attitude is predominant among consumers even
in tier -II cities such as Pune, Ludhiana and
Indore. However consumers in cities like Madurai
and Kanpur have a simpler taste and prefer
lighter colours that portray a simple yet serious
image.
Kumat feels that the taste for fabric varies for
30 percent of the range. Elaborating further, he
shares, 70 percent is the same. For example
Gujarat, Andhara and Indore market needs fancy
as always. Bansal is of the opinion that Western
India leads in fashion followed by north. South
and east India are slow movers when it comes to
fashion though he quickly points out, North east
people are very fashion conscious.
FASHION ALLIANCES & COLLABORATIONS
We are at our best when we work as a team.
This applies to the fashion industry as well. To
ensure that the consumers demand is well met,
it becomes important to offer them a package of
the most recent fabric with the most innovative
ingredients binding it and then of course the best
in design that would make them pick the apparel
off the shelf.
Jhunjhunwala feels that collaboration with
a fabric manufacturer is the key to success
in creating innovation for a fashion brand.
He reveals, We treat the manufacturer as
business partners and not like a vendor. This
kind of relationship makes it easier for us
to communicate our requirements in terms
of development and for the manufacturer to
provide full support to materialise the dreams
of the design team. There is an activity called
the Mill Week which is organised by the fabric
manufacturers and a Brand Week which is

organised by various brands. In these particular
events, besides showcasing the designs for a
particular season, concepts and ideas are also
exchanged between the fashion designers and the
textile designers to facilitate better collaboration.
Ganguly adds, Fabric-ingredient
manufacturers can establish a new level of
collaboration with strategic players in fabric
manufacturing. Such collaboration can bring the
performance of fabrics and garments to new
heights. Fabric ingredient manufacturers can play
a wider role by offering technologies, consumer
insights and collaborative business models that
can genuinely help fabric manufacturers to create
greater value for customers.
On how fabric manufacturers can collaborate
with garment manufactures, Soni shares,
We get latest brief from them and samples
are prepared in close collaboration with the
garment team. And adding on how fabric
ingredient manufacturers can add value, Soni
says, We work very closely with ber and
lament manufacturers in addition to chemical
manufacturers.
On the culture adopted at Mandhana when
it comes to collaboration, Anand says, To be
innovative and ahead of competition we need to
keep an eye on the latest available ingredients in
the eld. We work very closely with like-minded
innovators, be it at equipment, technology,
bers or dyes and chemicals. We are closely
working with Lenzing on the development of
our modal and viscose textile ranges. We are
also closely working with Dystar on the latest in
chemicals and dyestuff, and especially on the
sustainable or eco-friendly dyes and chemicals.
Such a partnership is essential and is a process
lead story
FOR THE
LAST COUPLE OF
YEARS, MENS
CATEGORY SEEMS
PICKING PACE
ACROSS MARKETS
WHETHER IT IS
APPAREL OR SKIN
CARE PRODUCTS
OR ACCESSORIES.
AMONGST THE
APPAREL, FABRIC
SURFACE, FEEL,
TOUCH AND
APPEARANCE
PLAY A MAJOR
ROLE, WHICH IS
WHY THERE IS A
LOT OF SCOPE FOR
INNOVATION IN THIS
CATEGORY.
MUKESH BANSAL
VARDAMAN
of continued exploration. Adding to the

collaboration that can be fostered with a designer,
Anand feels, A designer sows the seeds; weaves
a web of imagination and a manufacturer waters
those seeds to turn that fantasy into reality. The
two are always in a symbiotic relationship, which
is very important for innovation in the product
ranges. On the collaborative efforts put in place
at Indian Terrain, the team does run JIT programs
with some vendors and also co-created certain
products in the past.
ROADBLOCKS & CHALLENGES
The journey of each manufacturer or brand is not
devoid of the constant roadblock and challenges
they face, amongst many other things including
the challenge of being a step ahead of the
competitor. Citing the challenges that are seen
as a major threat, Ganguly shares, The fabric
industry is largely dominated by the unorganised
sector which offers cheaper products and higher
margins. Also within the industry there is limited
product differentiation.
Commenting on the broad challenges that
western wear in India faces, Suri points out,
The Indian consumer still sees it as a product
and consumes it as a product, while his western
counterpart consumes it as a lifestyle; this point
in my opinion is the biggest challenge and has the

largest opportunity to take advantage of.
For Anand, in the past three years, the
unpredictable and uctuating cotton prices have
been a nagging issue and a major challenge. He
adds, Like any other industry, textile industry has
its own share of problems and challenges related
to labour, power and uctuating demands.
On the challenges that Turtle had faced since
its inception Jhunjhunwala cites, Since were a
home-grown company, and its a capital intensive
business, availability of funds has always been a
challenge. Another challenge is the competition
from international brands.
Sharing a constant challenge faced by brands
back in India, Sethia shares, The major challenge
we face while designing formal wear in India
is the t and acceptance of newer silhouettes
or colours, while customers abroad are willing
to change moods with respect to colours and
silhouette and break rules when it comes to
decorum to dress for an occasion. Throwing light
on a much neglected challenge that India faces,
Sethia adds, Poor manufacturing conditions
and unfair trade practices like child labour are
still abundant in India. The need for ethical
manufacturing processes is a must.
MOVING AHEAD
There is a clear indication that womens western
formal wear category is growing at a much
faster pace than mens western formal wear.
The thrust for mens western formal wear is
more on dressing smart. Fabric innovation is
largely based on making the fabric comfortable to
carry rather than on designs. Stretch is another
inuencer when it comes to western formal wear.
The best possible means to move ahead in this
category and maintain a leadership position is by
means of collaboration.
Western formal wear in India has a good scope
of re-dening the very word western if all the
parties involved come together to create western
formal wear in India with a true Indian touch that
cannot be replicated or be called an imitation of
the western world! BoF
trends
TREND BYTE:
WESTERN FORMALWEAR
FW 2014-15
The Fall-Winter
2014-15 formal
menwear fashion
will be a clich breaker. As
the working scenario and
its pattern are changing
fast, the formal menwear
fashion is not going to stick
around age old Wall-street
look, rather it will be a
look which reects the
sublime layers and urge to
dwell in various space at
a time. As we look at the
Armani collection, cuttingedge tailoring is being
relaxed with gently sloping
shoulders and the playful
three-piece suit is giving
a composed look. We are
also seeing the resurgence
of double breasted jacket,
long coats and smart
parkas, two-in-one combo
dressing, loose silhouettes,
and straight trousers with a
neat raised crease running
down the front. With the
ruling colours petrol blue,
deep olive, fty shades of
grey, silver and ice blue,
our men in formalwear are
ready to celebrate their
layered personalities.
The Fall-Winter
2014-15 womens
formal wear fashion
is going to be dominated
by 50s retro look with
voluminous mid-level skirt,
long owing caped feel
coats and high waist easy
fall trousers. There will
be a major shift towards
androgynous dressing,
result of breaking glass
ceilings in workplaces.
Moreover, mid-level high
waist skirt with retro look
blousons, the skirtsuit will be at rise as in
Valentinos collection.
Double breasted jacket
combined with denim
and side swept hair as in
Gucci collection will touch
the glamour quotient in
presentation rooms. Major
colour players in formal
wear are ice blue, blue,
black, charcoal, grey,
silver, chocolate and blush
peach. To sum up, formal
wear womens fashion is
going to hold chronicle of
power.
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INTERNATIONAL CLIENTS LIKE NIKE, GROUPE ADEO, KNIGHTS & WALKER, SKULLCANDY, BBC, NOKIA, LENOVO,
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NYC, MURMUR LAB UK AND SO ON.
Check for more information at: www.youthinsightsindia.com
Desig
Year
the
oncept of
nC
Nominee
W
WISHFUL
With the intention to be a complete
solution provider for women apparel,
the brand W introduced its collection
wishful for special and evening
occasion. Wishful signies elegant
and smart Indian occasionwear.
Taking unconventional and modern
inspiration to create this line, the
brand believes that when a woman
wears wishful she would feel smart
and chic not overdressed.
Emphasis on styling and unique print
is the key to create newness without
excessive embellishment, streeses
the brand.
ORANGEADE
The collection of orangeade is a unique
concept by W to create bold and graphic
ofce wear for Indian women. The brand has
tried to offer a fresh and completely different
approach to ofce wardrobe for the Indian
women in comparison to other competitive
brands. Modern interpretation of silhouettes,
international trends of graphic geometrics and
colour blocking has been adapted in a unique
way, the collection got an amazing response
from the buyers.
Desig
Year
the
oncept of
nC
Nominee
INDIGO NATION
SPRING SUMMER 14
SUMMER
SHIRTS
Available in bright poplin,
the collection offer overdyed shirts, ideal for
blazing summers.
ALL
OCCASIONS
Easy-on-eye
cotton checked
shirts for all
occasions.
ENGINEERED
GEOMETRICS
The design of the shirts
offer clean cut, eyecatching geometrical
pattern.
CLASIC
WORK SHIRT
STREET
PANTS
The bottomwear collection
offers Jodhpuri pants,
joggers pants that are
classy, subtle and elegant
yet characteristically
quirky.
The shirts have structured

yet uid silhouette designs.
It offers the latest in
sleeve and collar
detailing.
launch pad
DUKE
SUNNSURF
SUMMER IS KNOWN FOR
SCORCHING HEAT AND
BOILING TEMPERATURE.
HOWEVER, DUKE
REFORMULATES THE
SEASON AS STYLISH
AND ADVENTUROUS BY
INTRODUCING ITS SPRING
SUMMER SUNNSURF
COLLECTION.
BY VANDANA RANA
This season premium lifestyle brand, DUKE redenes the summer

with its leisure collection, SUN n SURF. It draws inspiration from
the concept voyage, an adventurous summer vacation as its theme.
The collection especially designed for the younger lot offers latest
international designs in eye-catching colours that stay cool in the hot
season. According to the brand it boasts of various designs such as stripes,
prints, embroidery, patch work, short lengths, round necks, collars and
washings to give variety to the clients.
Duke has an elaborate product range, from t-shirts to shirts, trousers,
denims, bermudas, lowers and lounge wears for men, women and kids.
The all new collection is quite versatile and makes a perfect choice for
casuals, ofce, and evening wear wardrobe. It is made of 100 percent gas
mercerized cotton, whereas the t-shirt range is designed with 100 percent
long staple Egyptian cotton, while the collection has been treated with
special sweat absorbent technology that makes it perfect for hot and sultry
summer. The collection is priced at `425 onwards.
retail excellence
LINEN CLUB
THE NICHE FABRIC
THEY SAY THAT BEHIND EVERY GREAT MAN IS A GREAT

TAILOR, BUT THIS WOULD NOT BE POSSIBLE IF A TAILOR
DO NOT HAVE ACCESS TO THE RIGHT KIND OF FABRICS.
DRESSED IN THE FINEST LINEN FABRIC SUITS,
S KRISHNAMOORTHY, CEO-DOMESTIC TEXTILES, ADITYA
BIRLA GROUP, ELABORATES ON THE BRANDS SUCCESSFUL
FRANCHISE MODEL THAT HAS TAKEN OFF IN INDIA.
BY ROSHNA CHANDRAN
After the inception of its rst EBO in 1992, Linen Club Fabrics, premium
brand of Jaya Shree Textiles, (a unit of Aditya Birla Nuvo Ltd), has recently
launched its 14th exclusive showroom in Karnataka, which is also the 100th
exclusive showroom of the brand in India. S Krishnamoorthy, its CEO swears by
his linen fabrics that has been sourced from the Normandy regions of France and
Belgium.
B
Jaya Shree Textiles in Rishra (West Bengal) has a turnover of `1,300 crore, out
of
o which linen brings a turnover of `650 crore. Krishnamoothy has plans to double
the
t business at Linen Club Fabrics in the next 3 years to achieve a total turnover of
`2,000
crore. Growing by 20 percent year-on-year, the premium brand is expecting
`
to
t grow at 15 percent in the next 2 years.
FROM
MANUFACTURER TO RETAILER
F
Though
the Linen Club Fabrics was started 22 years ago, the real focus on fabrics
T
began
15 years ago. Krishnamoorthy stresses that the Normandy area from where
b
the
t material for the fabric are sourced is spread across an area of around 400-500
sq.mt.
It is located around France and Belgium which is where the best quality of
s
linen
grows for making apparel. According to him, linen is still very niche to the
l
world.
Approximately 40 percent of the apparel business in the world comes from
w
cotton,
50 percent from polyester, 2 percent from wool and just a mere 0.2 percent
c
from
linen. Moving from fabric to retailer, Krishnamoorthy gets a 30 percent
f
marketshare
in linen fabric. Considering its anti-septic, anti-bacterial quality with
m
natural
textures, linen has grown visible in India catching the tastes of a very niche
n
market.
m
Out of 10 million meters of fabric that is being produced at their manufacturing
unit
u in Rishra, (it is a 100 acre unit out of which 60 acres is used for making linen),
70
7 percent of the linen, goes on over-the -counter retail, through the 3,000 MBOs
present
all across the country. Twentyve percent of the linen fabric is supplied
p
to
t domestic brands like Louis Philippe, Van Heusen, Colour Plus, Wills Lifestyle,
Peter
England and Arvind. While, the rest 5 percent is supplied to global brands
P
like
l Kenneth Cole and Tommy Hilger.
THE FRANCHISE MODEL

Ninetyseven percent of the Linen Club Fabrics EBOs that are
present across the country, are franchised. The location are
chosen carefully while focusing on high street or main street
areas and lanes adjacent to these streets, to attract the afuent
male customers who could be the CEOs, traders, senior
executives or the likes.
Says Krishnamoorthy, Oscar Wilde once said that fashion
is a form of ugliness so intolerable that you have to alter it
every six months. Though, I feel that fashion needs to change
every month. In Europe, linen is used mostly for casual wear,
but in India we wear it as semi-formalwear. We introduced
vibrant colours, including pin stripes, and made something
exciting for the Indian consumer. We have tried to change the
way people look at linen. Earlier we used to have 80 percent
white collection and now it has come down to 70 percent. Our
design team at the manufacturing unit comes up with 10-15
designs a day.
For an outlet of 1,000-1,500 sq.ft., a franchisee would
require a minimum investment of `60 - `70 lakh, out of which
`30 - `40 lakh would go on fabrics and `25 lakh on interiors.
Meanwhile, our franchise outlets achieve break-even in the
second year and can expect 20 percent ROI from the third
year. The brand supports its franchisees with advertisements
and promotions; back end training for 5 - 6 sales persons, a
helper and an exclusive tailor to provide different styles based
on the companys catalogue. All staff employed at the outlets
THE BRAND HAS PLANS TO LAUNCH

A COMPLETELY NEW WOMENS WEAR
COLLECTION AND TO INCREASE THE
EXISTING WOMENS SEGMENT BY 20
PERCENT.
City
Location
State
Opening
Date
Avg.
Monthly
Footfall
Delhi
CP
Delhi
25.02.2013
900
Bangalore
Infantry
Road
Karnataka
28.01.2002
1200
Chennai
Alwerpet
Tamil Nadu
18.09.2010
1100
Hyderabad
Kookatpally
Andhra
Pradesh
11.11.2013
1100
Vijaywada
M G Road
Andhra
Pradesh
09.01.2009
850
Mumbai
Vile Parle
Maharashtra
19.08.2011
900
are educated right from what linen is; and how to wash and
maintain fabrics.
We study fashion trends in the area and guide our
franchisees on buying stocks, says Krishnamoorthy. We even
have franchisees that have expanded and opened 5 stores
with us. The outlet which opened in Bengaluru this month is
a franchisee outlet. He is an old franchisee and has opened
outlets with us in Gulbarga, Nagpur and Thirupathi.
We have tie-up with JGA, a leading retail design company
of the USA. The Linen Club Fabrics is revamping all their 100
outlets in India to give a similar ambience, space and colour.
Krishnamoorthy adds, We are changing the look of the outlets
because we are a premium brand and should have a retail
identity which is common across the country. The freshness of
the stores will be maintained through the in-house designing
and merchandising. We are going to make the Linen Club
Fabrics stores a place to walk-in.
Selling a 100 percent linen in a country where consumers
are price conscious, Krishnamoorthy connes that brands like
retail excellence
Louis Philippe and Van Heusen were not able to show case
much apparel in 100 percent linen range. He explains that linen
category comes under luxury, which can only be available over
the counter.
When a man walks into Linen Club Fabric outlet and orders
for a fabric particularly for a tailored-garment, for, he can
decide on the kind of embroidery, buttons, etc. based on the
companys catalogue and the company delivers it, he says that
is the USP of the brand.
CONTRIBUTION
Andhra Pradesh stands at number one in the consumption of
linen. It could probably be due to its climatic conditions in the
area that make it suitable for people to wear linen. Also, 30-40
percent of the people in Andhra are educated and understands
linen. At a national level Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu
including Andhra Pradesh contribute 40 percent to the sales.
PRODUCT RANGE
Attracting mostly the rich male consumer, 95 percent of the
brands product categories are menswear. Krishnamoorthy
is slowly tapping into the womens wear segment which is
currently around 5 percent. The brand has plans to launch a
completely new womens wear collection and to increase the
womens segment by 20 percent. Currently, menswear consists
of light formals in ashy bold colours like red apart from the
usual white. They are priced between `400 per meter to `5,000
per meter. Linen Club Fabrics has different blends of linen with
wool in the premium segment and linen with cotton in the more
cost effective categories.
CHALLENGES
Importing 100 percent of the raw material does come with its
ups and downs. With the Indian rupee depreciating in a volatile
manner, costs can uctuate as 30 percent import duty also
goes into it.
Explains Krishnamoorthy, I have great control over my cost
of production. It is slightly lower than China, despite the fact
that they are bigger in scale. A few years down the line I see
my cost of production going low by 5 percent compared to that
of China, because their labour costs would keep increasing. I
have reached my own global benchmark that make the costs
of production a little under control. By coming up with newer
designs and colours, Linen Club Fabrics will continue to excite
customers.
Another major challenge was to keep up with the availability
of stock in a store as there is very limited time in which a
product can be replenished. He explains, There are times
when the products in the catalogue is not available at the store
or is sold out. There are customers who demand for ready-towear and for a wider range of womens wear.
NINETYSEVEN PERCENT OF THE LINEN

CLUB EBOS ARE FRANCHISED. THE
LOCATION ARE CHOSEN CAREFULLY WHILE
FOCUSING ON HIGH STREET OR MAIN
STREET AREAS AND LANES ADJACENT
TO THESE STREETS, TO ATTRACT THE
AFFLUENT MALE CUSTOMERS
INNOVATIONS
In order to keep replenishing the store, Krishnamoorthy has
installed software that are connected from the stores to his
head ofce that gives him a daily feedback of sales and stock
requirements. One can calculate the amount of stock that
moves every day, know the bill value, customer feedbacks,
which customers are buying what product, thus building on
customer relationships.
THE FUTURE
Linen Club Fabrics started its marketing strategies in a big
way 5 years ago. Being a B2B brand that attract the likes of
customers like CEOs and senior executives, the brand has
never brought the end consumer to picture. Now, it has plans
to launch its rst campaign, which is a lm shot with fashion
designer Rohit Bal in Mauritius.
Krishnamoothry further says, Once we have built the brand
awareness, instead of the current 97 percent franchise model,
we will focus on setting up our own stores. Our aim is to reach
250 outlets by 2017.
Linen Club Fabrics also has plans of taking the
e-commerce route showcasing a strong portfolio of linen
garments.Denitely ready-to-wear is growing faster than
ready-to-stitch. So, I do not want to lose focus on that. I want to
go into garments slowly but my main area will be fabrics,
he says.
At the moment, Linen Club Fabrics is focusing on south
India and places like Goa, Hubli and Maharashtra. We have
rich farmers in tier -II and -III cities, it is not that we are only
targeting tier -I cities, he concludes. BoF
spotlight
RAGHAVENDRA
RATHORE
AFTER
THE
HIATUS
AFTER FOUR LONG YEARS,
DESIGNER, RAGHAVENDRA
RATHORE MADE HIS COMEBACK
LAST YEAR AT THE INDIA BRIDAL
WEEK IN DELHI. ALL THROUGH
THESE YEARS, RATHORE WAS
CONCENTRATING ON HIS
MENSWEAR COLLECTION.
HIS BRANDS INCLUDE
RAGHAVENDRA, THE COUTURE
LINE; A DIFFUSION LINE
CALLED RATHORE JODHPUR;
A MENSWEAR LINE CALLED
CLUB JODHPUR; WEARABLE
WOMENSWEAR CALLED BLUE
MANTRA; AND RATHORE HOME,
HIS RANGE OF RAJASTHANINSPIRED LUXURY HOME
PRODUCTS. CURRENTLY, HE
OWNS FOUR STORES TWO
IN DELHI, AND ONE EACH IN
KOLKATA AND MUMBAI.
BY AARTI KAPUR SINGH
The runway exuded class and royal elegance with ve miniature

fountains placed in the middle and dim lights in the backdrop. As
soon as the curtains were lifted, barefooted models strutted down
the ramp in plain cotton saris with a ghunghat to mark the opening of the
much-awaited comeback of Raghavendra Rathore after four years at the
India Bridal Week in Delhi.
The wedding wear range, which drew inspiration from the glory days of
the Raj, was truly regal and betted the homecoming of the designer from
a royal lineage. Poncho-like tops in digital print, satiny material and long
achkan coats with intricate embroidery teamed with pants were also part of
the collection.
Rathores collection drew its inspiration from traditional silhouettes from
across Asia. The idea was to put the focus back on redening structure and
conceive well-tted garments with ne cuts to achieve a sophisticated look.
He showcased his trademark Jodhpuri bandgala jackets, not only as part
of mens collection but also the bolero bandgala and sari bandgala in his
womens collection.
A wide variety of menswear displayed by Rathore included velvet coats in
hues of red and green with pocket squares, mens suits in all vibrant colours
like pink, purple, navy blue, red, turquoise blue, and the silk blue suit with
bandgala with a complementing hot pink pocket square. A drift from the
usual shades of grey, black, and brown was evident in his mens collection.
Womens couture displayed a fusion of contemporary with traditional,
and models strutting like goddesses in embroidered long dresses with
front and side slits. Every little detail was closely thought including the gold
embroidered pointed velvet shoes in heels that added to the sophistication of
the ensemble.
Rathore has mined his rich cultural heritage and skills to create a brand
to reckon with. In a recent TV interview, actor Saif Ali Khan said this about
his work, Raghus harmonious designs, a blend of international and
Indian aesthetics, carry forth the allure of both worlds. And Khan is not
the only one who has words of praise for the regal designer. Renowned
personalities like Shah Rukh Khan, Amitabh Bachchan, Naveen Jindal,
Jyotiraditya Scindia, Yuvraj Singh, and Rahul Gandhi have all been spotted
in his well-tailored designs. In the last few years, Rathore has collaborated
with Shoppers Stop, Carmichael House

and Tanishq to design home accessories
and jewellery. He has also designed
uniforms for leading hotel chains,
including the recently launched Taj
Vivanta in Gurgaon. Rathore studied
design at the Parsons School of Design in
New York and went on to work for Donna
Karan, also a Parsons alumnus, in 550
Seventh Avenue the iconic building in
New York that houses most designer
labels. Donna, at the time, remembers
Rathore had just launched her affordable

label DKNY targeted at younger
consumer segment. Donna realised
that everyone wanted her wares, so why
not give it to the market at a lower cost?
Rathore shared. Like Donna, Rathore
too launched Club Jodhpur, a menswear
range that appeals to a vast age group.
I was the only man in Donnas ofce,
and hence I was the butt of all jokes, he
revealed. It was here that Rathore ran
into Oscar de la Renta, the red-carpet
couturier famous for dressing Jacqueline

Kennedy. Impressed with his sketches,
de la Renta took him under his wing as
his assistant. While I learnt to work with
cheap fabric (lots of Jersey) under Donna,
Oscar taught me to work with expensive
fabric, he said. One metre of cloth, he
recalled, was worth over US$ 6,000. We
couldnt cut anything. I learnt the art of
draping.
IMAGES BUSINESS OF FASHION IN CONVERSATION WITH DESIGNER RAGHAVENDRA

RATHORE ON HOW IT FEELS LIKE TO BE BACK IN ACTION. THE FOLLOWING IS AN EXCERPT
FROM THE INTERVIEW
How did it feel to show after four years?
Im happy with the fact that everything looks the same.
Except maybe the people have aged a little (smiles). We
stayed away from fashion weeks because we wanted to
concentrate on our menswear. And now, we have perfect
equity on the bandgala. But, in a show, it somehow feels
incomplete without showing womens wear as well, which
is why we had an equal number of garments for men
and women this time. We reinterpreted the signature
Jodhpuri bandgala in nearly six iterations for womens
couture showcase, including the new bolero bandgala
and the sari bandgala. In fact, weve taken embroidery
on velvet from the womens garments and used them to
create a new look for menswear. A fashion week is like a
food festival, and I am like Dominos I only deliver when
there is a demand.
Is it true that after the rst season of Kaun Banega Crorepati

aired, in which you had dressed Amitabh Bachchan, he sent you
a note minutes after the rst show saying Is it true that I am
looking younger?
(Smiles) Thats the beauty and the secret of the bandgala. It makes
a man look trimmer and younger because it cuts close to the body.
Its almost like a capsule.
You have copyrighted the details that you use on your bandgalas
and Jodhpuris?
Yes, it is true. A young designer came to me with a portfolio of
innovative versions of breeches. But, he had no idea where the
original pattern came from. Students of fashion and design are
welcome to learn from my designs and cuts as long as they know
of their authenticity. We have to protect what is ours as well as the
ofcial language of the bandgala.
spotlight
And how do you propose to do that?

Fashion is not just runway stuff. It is a culture, heritage and
tradition. The more noise we make about our product, the
more noise is made about the product in the market. Today,
everyone is making bandgalas! People want more when they
invest in luxury. No one wants to carry an expensive handbag
from a high-end label unless it is heavily customised. Perhaps,
thats the reason why I am told people have condence in my
brand. The market for high-end menswear is bursting at the
seams with international brands like Canali and Tom Ford
entering India under franchise agreements. Im not interested
in a franchise; it is like running someone elses horse. Now, I
want to take this bandgala to the international market mainly
London, where we are introducing concept jackets initially
through pop-up shops. What has dened fashion in India, is the
real estate because the value per hanger that one is now paying
is much higher than what one may pay in, say, Madison. The
challenge is for young designers to sustain themselves. But, if
you are innovative, you can rough it out.
Is that why you ventured into holistic designing, and not just
fashion?
Expanding into varied segments of design has helped me
and my team grow creatively. Specialised projects are highly
customised and need a different methodology. We did the
Nakshatra Store concept in 2011, which was implemented
in our Mumbai store. The product offering was a complete
customisation of the stores interior. We designed the entire
product range (inclusive of bags, belts, clutches, sunglasses,
wallets and watches, etc.), keeping in mind the clientele as well
as the brands aesthetics. There is a growing market for madeto-measure products in India. We also undertook the Suryagarh
Jaisalmer, Rajasthan interior concept in 2009, with architect
Ravi Kumar Gupta. We started at the beginning of 2008 and
undertook the complete designing of the hotel interiors and
furniture preserving the heritage while creating an eclectic
mix of modernism. We have also created a home linen range
for Carmichael House (like cushion covers, candle-holders, bed
spreads and quilts).
Just excites?
To be honest, I do get anxious while designing home
accessories, which are displayed in malls next to bed sheets
and pressure cookers! I receive phone calls with people telling
me, We are on your sheets, when I did the range of bed linen
for Carmichael House.
What trends do you envisage for the forthcoming season?
Denitely, lot of colours, with focus on the classics.
Unstructured casual jackets paired with loose pants and airy
footwear is ideal for summer. Simplicity and localisation will be
the trends keywords, and also look out for tools for better time
management, so nothing too particularly ornate or hard to wear.
FASHION IS NOT JUST RUNWAY STUFF. IT

IS A CULTURE, HERITAGE AND TRADITION.
THE MORE NOISE WE MAKE ABOUT OUR
PRODUCT, THE MORE NOISE IS MADE ABOUT
THE PRODUCT IN THE MARKET.
Finally, what is your own personal style? What are your musthaves?
Comfortable. I favour a cotton-centric wardrobe. Im technosavvy, respect our history and culture, have a keen desire
to learn about everything in life, and I strongly believe that
an individuals character is shaped by his or her unique
experiences as well as the people we come in contact with.
A custom outdoor Beretta jacket or a coat suits most of my
requirements. The luxury of having an outdoor life in Jodhpur
mandates a good selection of weather combatant coats. The
dual-purpose Berettas can be used for outdoor adventures and
expeditions by the day, while they can team up with a classic
pair of jeans for evening affairs. A detachable hood doubles as
a storage pouch and adjustable cuffs are a plus point. Kenneth
Cole still rules and is on top of the pyramid for me, as their
durability and comfort beats all. In addition, the classic nature
and unique colours in their offering make it one of my favourite
accessory brands. A humourous and well-designed belt from
Paul Smith is an important accessory that I have not moved
away from in spite of the vast variety of good belts available in
the marketplace nowadays. The colour combinations of these
belts surely make a style statement. I love my printed Hermes
pocket scarves with small-scale repeating patterns, such as
dots, geometric shapes and paisleys. Additionally, the colours
in the square complement a good number of my sport jackets.
My recently acquired Coach bag, which I got out of necessity in
Monaco, seems to be retaining a high place in my life. Initially
for airline travel, now it accompanies me to the ofce too. Since
it is shapeless, it can accommodate a whole world of things in
it. And, of course, a bandgala jacket with silver buttons from
the custom tailoring house that I started over two decades
ago is but of course, my favourite piece of fashion. The jacket
emulates a stylish, modern look when paired with denims and
when worn as a suit. It is the most authentic piece of clothing
from India. BoF
retail watch
TIME TO BE
EXCLUSIVE
RUPA RECENTLY OPENED AN EXCLUSIVE
RETAIL OUTLET AT AVANI MALL. THE BRAND
HAS PLANS TO OPEN 20 MORE EBOS IN THIS
FINANCIAL YEAR AT STRATEGIC LOCATIONS
IN METRO, TIER -I AND -II CITIES REVEALED
NIKHIL JAIN, RETAIL HEAD, RUPA & COMPANY
TO IMAGES BUSINESS OF FASHION.
BY ROSY NGAIHTE SHARMA
The indigenous fashion and lifestyle brand Rupa

recently opened an exclusive retail outlet at
Avani Mall. According to the company, the idea
of opening an EBO for Rupa has been going on for long.
They opened their rst EBO in Cuttak, where the brand
received tremendous response from the customers that
led to the opening of their second EBO at Avani Mall.
The company believes that the location would prove
strategically benecial for the brand, as the mall houses a
variety of brands ranging from standard to ultra-premium.
In addition, it is a popular hub for shoppers frequented by
all age groups.
The EBO showcases all major Rupa brands Frontline,
Hunk, Softline, Kidline, Air, Stretcho, Expando, Xing,
Femmora, Euro innerwear, Bumchums, Immogi,
Thermocot, Torrido, Footline, Euro Jeans, etc., including
their latest launch, Jeanie, which is an exclusive new range
for women.
We have a wide array of products for all sections of society.
We wanted all of them to be present at one place, so that
our esteemed customers can get the entire range under one
roof, said Nikhil Jain, retail head, Rupa & Company.
retail watch
Rupa started off as mens innerwear

brand, and initiated manufacturing in
partnership with third-party vendors
from Kolkata (West Bengal) and Tirupur
(Tamil Nadu). The year 1995 marked a
new beginning when Rupa & Company
took over Binod Hosiery.
Until the mid-60s, hosiery industry in
India was in a stage of complacency.
The limited organised sector and
localised brands kept churning out
mediocre products. The consumers were
unsatised but there was no other option
that was readily available. Sensing an
opportunity, we explored the possibilities
and prospects of creating a brand that
would revolutionise the hosiery market
with quality that excels. With a mission
to produce the best and provide comfort,
the available products were upgraded
and made more consumer-friendly,
shared Jain.
Rupa has registered quite an
encouraging growth trajectory. The
company recorded a turnover of `825
crore (FY 201213) and in this nancial
year 201415, they plan to exceed the
`1,000 crore mark. In the period from
2009 to 2013, the brands CAGR for prot
after tax has been 46 percent, while
the same for EBITDA and revenue has
been around 40 percent and 19 percent,
respectively.
THE BRAND OPENED THEIR

FIRST EBO IN CUTTAK
LAST YEAR. IT WAS AN
EXPERIENTIAL APPROACH
TO CHECK AND SEE ON HOW
TO EXPAND IN THE MARKET.
THEY ARE PLANNING
A MAJOR EXPANSION
THIS FINANCIAL YEAR IN
STRATEGIC LOCATIONS LIKE
MALLS AND HIGH STREETS.
Despite being present for more than 50

years, the brand is new to retail formats.
We have made ourselves available to
all nearby outlets across the country.
We are thinking of expanding in a solid
way rather than playing with number
game. In the next nancial year, we will
cater to all metro and tier -I cities, he
elaborated.
The brand is retailed across the
country through leading format stores
like Walmart, Carrefour, ITC e-Chaupal,
V-Mart, and Vishal Mega Mart, which are
also its recent expansions.
Jain said, It is our constant endeavour
to gift our customers the very basic
in bodywear. Moreover, it is always
challenging to cater to niche market.
We have seamlessly transversed from
a production-driven enterprise to a
customer-driven brand and are fully

prepared to face the challenges of total
customer satisfaction at a global level.
We opened our rst EBO in Cuttak
last year. It was an experiential approach
to check and see on how to expand in
the market. We are planning a major
expansion of opening 20 outlets this
nancial year in strategic locations like
malls and high streets in two phases
under the franchisee model. In the rst
phase of our expansion, we will target
metro and tier -I cities and in the second
phase, we will cover tier -II cities, he
added.
According to him, the placement
and reach of the brand with its target
customers are an important pre-sales
activity. Likewise, it is equally crucial to
have appealing store and merchandising
to induce customers to buy products.
It includes factors like store layout,
product merchandising, window display,
props, lighting, price-point, posters and
graphics, interiors of stores and how
they are visually organised in the store to
make customers have a fresh look every
time they pay a visit.
In order to attract more customers
in the stores, we shall be increasing on
the merchandising and sales promotion
activities to connect with the shoppers,
he concluded. BoF
entrepreneur
ETHIX
CLOTHING:
ABOUT DREAMS
AND ETHICS
THE JOURNEY OF A THOUSAND
MILES BEGIN WITH A SINGLE STEP
GOES THE ADAGE AND RESONATING
THIS APTLY IS THE JOURNEY
ENCOMPASSED BY ETHIX CLOTHING
THE BRAINCHILD OF AVNEESH
MISHRA, CEO AND DHARMESH
GATHANI, MD. FROM AN INITIAL
INVESTMENT OF `20 LAKH IN 2005
TO GROWING MULTI-FOLD WITH A
TURNOVER OF `150 CRORE LAST
FINANCIAL YEAR, IT IS A STORY
OF GRIT AND DETERMINATION,
DREAMING OF THE IMPOSSIBLE AND
MAKING IT POSSIBLE IN LESS THAN
A DECADE!
BY ZAINAB MORBIWALA
The journey of Pune-based Ethix Clothing began when

Avneesh Mishra decided it was time to bring in a change
in the way brands were being distributed in the market
with tier-II and -III cities and towns usually being neglected.
He shared, The scope that brands have in cities like Pune,
Ahmednagar, Nanded, etc. is beyond imagination but a lot many
premium brands do not understand this. It was while working
with Arvind Brands that Mishra realised the market gap and the
possible opportunity it presented.
He had landed himself with Arvind Brands soon after nishing
his MBA. Elaborating on his upbringing, he shared, I belong to
a middle-class family. I was born and brought up in Gorakhpur
(UP). After completing my MBA from a college in Indore, I got
myself a job at Arvind Brands through a campus placement.
Whilst I was there, through various interactions with dealers
and retailers, I realised that there was a big gap in the market
for distribution of brands and the way businesses were
conducted had a lot of scope for improvement.
Without thinking much, he bid adieu to his full-time job and
began his entrepreneurial journey. Not knowing where to turn
for nances to support his dream, he went to his father asking
for a loan of `5 lakh. Mishra told, My father wasnt too open
about the idea of me investing `5 lakh in a business and instead
asked me to either buy a house or invest it elsewhere. But he
was adamant to start his own business. I didnt want to look
back and take up a full-time job again, he confessed. The rst
brand that he began with was Trigger Jeans.
TURNING POINT
Mishra would be in the eld the entire day meeting with
retailers across Maharashtra. It was during these interactions
that he came across Dharmesh Gathani, who owned a retail
store. He liked Mishras single-minded approach towards work.
As destiny smiled on Mishra, he got an opportunity to take on
the distribution for Pepe Jeans. Mishra revealed, My former
colleague from Arvind Brands had joined Pepe. He put in a
word for me, they called for a meeting, and we just clicked. I
was to invest `20 lakh for this. I asked Gathani if he would lend
me the money. Instead, he offered me a partnership deal and

asked me to start a company and take more brands on board.
It was no looking back then! Next came Mufti and then the list
went on with brands like Puma, U S Polo, Blackberry, United
Colors of Benetton, etc. Mishra recounted, The rst year we
did 1,000 pieces for Mufti and today it goes to about 1.5 lakh
pieces a year.
MOVING FORWARD
Until 2008, Mishra was handling everything with ve sales
people in the team. They operated from a warehouse with just
a table and a chair, it was only in 2009 that a small ofce space
was rented. In 2011, they moved to a bigger space and today
they operate from a 3,000 sq.ft. ofce with a full-edged team
in place.
Citing the initial challenges and roadblocks faced, Mishra
shared, The earliest of challenges was getting the right
manpower in place. It was a learning for us each single day,
as we didnt really had any corporate backing or corporate
experience per se. Also, the market dynamics were changing
then. The taste of the people was undergoing a revolutionary
change. The concept of MBOs was shrinking and malls and
large format stores were fast catching up.
LAUNCHING GROOVE IN-HOUSE BRAND
The omnipresence of brands in everyday lives of consumers
due to the growing penetration of media, a certain section of
people in tier -II and -III towns and cities are opting for branded
garments, the only hitch being the price-points. To cater to
that particular section of the customers, Mishra and Gathani
launched Groove. Mishra said, So, we went ahead to launch
BRAND
AREA
BEING HUMAN
Virtuous Mall, Surat
BENETTON
Pacic Mall, Pune; Prozone Mall, Aurangabad;

Nashik
BLACKBERRY
Kolhapur; Inorbit Mall, Pune; Premier Plaza,

Pimpri; MG Road, Pune
FLYING
MACHINE
Phoenix, Pune; Panaji; DB Mall, MP;

Viviana,Thane; Virtuous Mall, Surat
MADURA
Kothrud, AS; Kothrud, LP; Kothrud, VH; Pimpri,

LP; Viviana, LP; Viviana, LP Sports
MUFTI
Amonara, Pune; Aundh, Pune; Mardgoa; Pimpri,

Pune; Prozone Mall, Aurangabad; Phoenix, Pune;
MG Road, Pune; Kothrud, Pune; Nagpur; Inorbit
Mall, Baroda; Amravati
PEPE
Jabalpur,MP; DB Mall, MP; Prozone Mall,

Aurangabad; Nasik; C21 Attitude, MP; Alpha Mall,
Ahmedabad; JM Road, Pune; Kolhapur; Virtuous
Mall, Surat; Seasons Mall, Pune
PUMA
Kothrud, Pune; Nasik; Pimpri, Pune; Nagpur;

Viviana, Thane; Prozone Mall, Aurangabad;
Amanora; Phoenix, Kurla; Sangli
TURTLE
Nagpur
US POLO
Prozone Mall, Aurangabad; Jabalpur; MP; DB

Mall, MP; Pimpri, Pune; Phoenix, Pune; SGS Mall,
Pune; Panaji; Viviana, Thane; Gwalior
VOI
SGS Mall, Pune; Surat
WRANGLER
Prozone Mall, Aurangabad; Amonara, Pune;

Phoenix, Pune; Virtuous Mall, Surat; DB Mall, MP
GROOVE
Prozone Mall, Aurangabad; Solapur; Satara

Road, Pune; Chandrapur; Vapi; Satna; Amaravati;
Akola; Nanded; Satara; Nagar; Pimpri; Virar, Viva,
Jabalpur
our brand in the mid-segment category. It has been three

years since the launch of Groove and so far, we have had a
very positive response. The stores are anywhere in between
6001,000 sq.ft. and we also offer franchise options.
With over 12 brands, Ethix Clothing has managed to carve a
niche and place for itself in the business of fashion and what
is truly commendable is the journey of Mishra from being a
salesperson to mentoring a company today, which has crossed
`150 crore turnover in less than a decade! BoF
technology
FENDI
DRONES UP
TECH-FASHION
AT THE RECENTLY CONCLUDED MILAN
FASHION WEEK, IT WAS POSSIBLE TO
BE CONNECTED AND EXPERIENCE THE
EMOTIONS OF THE FASHION SHOW IN REAL
TIME WITH THE POSSIBILITY OF CHOOSING
THE PREFERRED PERSPECTIVES BETWEEN
THE CLASSIC VIEW AND, AS NEVER SEEN
BEFORE, THE AERIAL SHOTS CAPTURED BY
THE FLYING DRONE CAM.
BY AARTI KAPUR SINGH
A latest innovation, masterminded by Fendi, ensured

that cameras installed on drones captured the Italian
luxury fashion houses Fall-Winter 2014-15 fashion show
and broadcasted it live on their website, www.Fendi.com.
High denition drone cameras ew along Fendis catwalk of
the Fall-Winter 2014-15 fashion show. This innovative project
surpassed the traditional notion of fashion shows and, thanks
to its use of digital platforms, it aimed at bringing the audience
closer to an exclusive event by creating a revolutionary,
captivating, immersive and unprecedented experience.The
drones whirred ominously overhead in the closed showroom as
Karl Lagerfelds collection owed along the runway, with the
models seemingly unfazed by the new technology. The military
technology of drones seemed oddly appropriate for a collection
that looked back to the wartime - 1940s - with a green-and88 | April 2013 | IMAGES Business of Fashion
brown colour palette, fur shoulder wraps and ankle-length

trench coats.
The drones allow us to be pioneers once again and project
ourselves into the future. Fendis digital strategy resolves to
continuously raise the prole of the brand, said Pietro Beccari,
chairman and CEO, Fendi, which is owned by French luxury giant
LVMH. Beccari said that the drone footage, which was streamed
live on Fendis website and on social media, would give our fans
a chance to see the show like it has never been seen.
In the days following the fashion show, the dedicated area on
fendi.com will be enriched with special content about the event,
including the exclusive making of video to experience the birth
and implementation of the project up close. At the end of the live
show, users will be able to replay the video of the fashion show
on demand, with the Drone Cam footage, always on Fendi.com.
TECHNOLOGY & FASHION

Though fashion has been embracing technology on many
seasons, the use of drones might feel a little incongruous,
given the devices connotations with spying and the military.
But Zoe Lazarus, a trend forecaster specialising in luxury and
technology at Lowe & Partners, believes that the perception
of drones is changing in the creative industries. Artists have
been using drone-camera imagery for a while, and drones
have been used in advertising and gaming for a couple of years.
Drones feel edgy and futuristic they appeal to that vision of a
cyborg future. Creatively they are brilliant, because they can be
maneuvered into places where people cant go. They are also
small, easy to handle and inexpensive. Were only going to see
more of this in the future, he said.
This is a bit of a coup for Fendi, contines Lazarus. Live
streams have become quite standard now at fashion shows
and so this is a way to up the ante and get social media
coverage.
Indeed, ying robots are one of the last remaining unexplored
tech territories for the fashion industry. In 2011, Burberry
became the rst fashion house to live stream its catwalk
show. In 2012, Diane von Furstenbergs models wore Google
Glass on the catwalk. During the Topshop Unique show that
was part of London fashion week, cameras on poles scanned
models as they walked down the runway, feeding the images
to the windows of Topshop Oxford Circus. Topshop turned to
telepresence to transport shoppers
in its central London agship
store across the city and
immersed them in a fashion
show taking place in the
Tate Moderns Turbine Hall.
Topshop partnered with 3D
design agency Inition to live
stream events from the London
art gallery and deliver a virtual
front-row experience to
participants at the Oxford
Street, London shop.
Headsets created the
illusion of a 360 view of
the runway, backstage area
and arrival of some of the biggest
names in fashion and entertainment. Customers were able
to experience the show in Topshops Oxford Street store on
February 16, 17 and 18. Andy Millns, co-founder and creative
director of Inition, said that Topshop had the vision to explore
the next revolution in mass media Virtual Reality (VR). VR
is the ultimate interface to the digital world with the power
to transport the user to another place as soon as they put on
a special display. This unique technology has the potential
to open up fashion shows to the consumer at home and it
DURING THE TOPSHOP UNIQUE SHOW THAT

WAS PART OF LONDON FASHION WEEK,
CAMERAS ON POLES SCANNED MODELS AS
THEY WALKED DOWN THE RUNWAY, FEEDING
THE IMAGES TO THE WINDOWS OF TOPSHOP
OXFORD CIRCUS.
is believed that it would be the rst of many

executions of its kind. At the Giles show, Cara
Delevingne posted a series of wobbly videos to
her 4.4 million Instagram followers straight
from the runway. The fashion industry
has seen success in embracing technology
reected in share price, said Lazarus. There
has been a lot of recognition of the success of
Burberry in this area. Lots of luxury brands are
trying to emulate that, using technology as
a way of making a brand feel more modern
and relevant. Traditional brands used to nd
technology scary but now, slowly, one by one,
they are embracing it.
Away from fashion, drones have been
deployed for such disparate purposes as gaming,
art, reporting on British oods and even delivering
pizzas. In December, Amazon announced plans to distribute
packages by unmanned octopter by 2018, an ambitious
target that has been dismissed by cynics as a publicity stunt,
given the potential privacy and security risks associated with
introducing drones, en masse, into urban areas. Nevertheless,
in the US, the Federal Aviation Administration predicts that
10,000 commercial drones could be buzzing in American skies
by 2017. BoF
designer weaves
FASHION TRENDS
AT LARGE
STRIKING FASHION INGREDIENTS TO INNOVATIVE DESIGN
TECHNIQUES AND SMART USE OF EXOTIC COLOUR PALETTE,
THIS SEASON OF LAKM FASHION WEEK SUMMER RESORT 2014
PRESENTED THE GLORIOUS FUTURE OF INDIAN FASHION INDUSTRY.
IMAGES BUSINESS OF FASHION BRINGS TOGETHER THE LATEST
FASHION TRENDS FOR THE SEASON STRAIGHT FROM THE RAMP.
BY VANDANA RANA
CLASSIC BLACK & WHITE
TARUN TAHILIANI LFW SR14
JUNELIA AGUIAR LFW SR14
KRISHNA MEHTA LFW SR14
RAJESH PRATAP SINGH LFW SR14
ARCHANA KOCCHAR LFW SR14
Black and white are the two classic fashion colours that always manage to steal the limelight. This spring, resort fashion
designers such as Rajesh Pratap Singh, Zen & Mossi, Krishna Mehta and Nupur Kanoi made intelligent use of these two tints in
various ensembles, from graceful gowns to dainty dresses and super suits.
ISHA KEDIA LFW SR14
This season ombr is

everywhere, be it lustrous
lip make-up, funky hairstyle
or fashion forward trends.
Designers like Anju Modi,
Anita Dongre, Khushboo &
Prem sashayed the ramp with
this gradient tone effect. The
seasonalso saw glimpses of
blue, grey, black and turquoise
hues, enhancing the couture.
ASMITA MARWA LFW SR14
ASMITA MARWA LFW SR14
ANITA DONGRE LFW SR14
ANJU MODI LFW SR14
KHEM BY KHUSHBOO & PREM LFW SR14
OPULENT
OMBR
EFFECT
designer weaves
SENSUAL NET & LACES
TARUN TAHILIANI LFW SR14
SHEHLA KHAN LFW SR14
MANISH MALHOTRA LFW SR14
ANJU MODI LFW SR14
KOMAL SOOD LFW SR14
SOUNIA GOHIL LFW SR14
The touch of net and lace not only adds value to the ensemble but also makes the
entire silhouette quite tasteful. Designers like Shyamal and Bhumika, Tarun Tahiliani,
Shantanu & Nikhil, Asmita Marwa etc. have decorated their collections with these two
exquisite fabrics to add glamour and alchemy to the designs.
AARTI VIJAY GUPTA LFW SR14
FARAH SANJANA LFW SR14
Unusual variety of prints inspired

by architecture, decor and
paintings was another big trend
this season. Aarti Vijay Guptas
collection of Indian miniatures
displayed an array of prints
inspired from the paintings of
16th and 17th centuries. On the
other side, Sounia Gohil brought
alive the bright digital prints of
European decor.
DEBASHRI SAMANTA LFW SR14
KEN FERNS LFW SR14
SOUNIA GOHIL LFW SR14
KUNAL ANIL TANNA LFW SR14
MANISH MALHOTRA LFW SR14
SAYANTAN SARKAR LFW SR14
KUNAL ANIL TANNA LFW SR14
POWERWFUL
PRINTS
ASDEEN LFW SR14
MANDIRA BEDI LFW SR14

PAYAL KHANDWALA LFW SR14
GAURANG SHAH LFW SR14
A fashion ramp is incomplete without

an alluring range of sari! Gaurang Shah
introduced sari in oriental avour, whereas
Archana Kochhar draped dhoti sari in chic
style. Mandira Bedi, who made her debut
at LFW SR 14, showcased georgette, satingeorgette, net and cotton-silk sari for the
season.
SCINTILLATING
SARI
JYOTSANA TIWARI LFW SR14
designer weaves
BRIGHT & BEAUTIFUL
PRETTY STONED LFW SR14
JYOTSANA TIWARI LFW SR14
NEETA LULLA LFW SR14
LOTUS SUTR LFW SR14
SONAM & PARAS MODI LFW SR14
ASDEEN LFW SR14

SUMAN NATHWANI LFW SR14
SHANTANU & NIKHIL LFW SR14
ANUSHKA KHANNA LFW SR14
GAURANG SHAH LFW SR14
This season the bright colour palette ruled the ramp including coral, red, turquoise, orange and yellow. Anushka
Khanna offered a oral, colourful collection in hot orange and maroon. Sonam & Paras Modi exhibited the concept of
bright yellow, and Gaurang Shah used tints like green, hot pink and purple quite tastefully.
designer weaves
ILPA
BAGS AND
BAGGAGE
INDIAN LEATHER PRODUCTS
ASSOCIATION ORGANISED ITS ANNUAL
EVENT THE ILPA FASHION SHOW LEATHER ON THE RAMP - IN KOLKATA.
COMPLETING ITS 26TH YEAR THE
ORGANISATION HAS LEFT NO STONE
UNTURNED TO PROMOTE THE LEATHER
INDUSTRY. ON THE OCCASION MAJOR
EXPORT HOUSES SHOWCASED THEIR
BRANDS COLLECTIONS.
BY PROSENJIT BISWAS
It was Kolkatas rendezvous with fashion

as the citys glitterati came together to
witness the biggest and the solitary leather
show by Indian Leather Products Association
(ILPA) held at Swiss Hotel. The models sashayed
the ramp with their implausible looks sporting
the outts designed by Tejas Gandhi and Arnab
Sengupta and make up by Rajat-Kaushik. Leather
products showcased at the event included ladies
bags, handbags, clutches, hobo handbags, unisex
bags, mens bags, briefcases, portfolios, holdalls
(travel bags) and belts. Prestigious leather
brands and export units like Rene, Indostyle Hunt,
Shivmani, Kompanero, Metrolpoli, and Jiwan
displayed their exclusive products.
web watch
APPAREL
FOR A CAUSE
SAMTANA.COM IS AN E-COMMERCE BUSINESS
FORMED TO SUPPORT FARMERS AND ARTISTS.
ITS FOUNDERS, BEN HEINKEL HAS WORKED
IN THE INTERNET SECURITY SPACE FOR MOST
OF HIS CAREER WHILE BHARATH MADHIRAJU
HAS WORKED WITH MULTINATIONAL RETAIL
COMPANIES IN INDIA AND WITH A UK-BASED
TRANSPORT PLANNING COMPANY BEFORE
COMING TO INDIA. MADHIRAJU TALKS TO IMAGES
BUSINESS OF FASHION ABOUT THEIR START UP
BUSINESS WHICH HAS BEEN IN OPERATION FOR A
YEAR NOW.
BY ROSHNA CHANDRAN
Tell us a how you went about conceptualising Samtana.
com
Samtana was started by Ben Heinkel and myself. We
registered Samtana.com a couple of years ago but actually
started its operation last year. The venture started with an initial
investment of `8 lakh and we have now achieved the break-even.
Samtana is an artistic clothing brand and it came about for
two main reasons. Firstly, we saw that there was lack of
individuality or aesthetic appeal in the apparel segment so we
thought of doing something unique by getting artists together
from India and overseas on a common platform, to interact
with each other. Once we got that going, we thought why dont
we ask people what they thought of their designs. So we posted
the designs on our Facebook page where visitors, friends and
families voted for the best design and the design that got the
most number of votes go into production. We have about 11
designs now. Our main and only product category as of now is
T-shirts.
The second reason for starting Samtana is while we were
doing our research on T-shirts, we found that a large number
of farmers were commiting suicides in the country owing to
the fact that they were not getting a fair deal. There were failed
crops and farmers were not able to clear the debts. There were
also issues of pesticides and fertilisers ruining their crops. At
that point, we thought of doing something about it. We may
have not been able to change the world, but we wanted to do
our bit. So that was the reason for using only organic cotton
which is Fair Trade and Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
certied.
Share your opinion on the trends in T-shirts that you see in

the market.
Of late, the kind of T-shirts that we generally see in the
market are very typical and much has not changed in the
past 10-15 years. People have moved toward brands and
prefer to wear a sports brand or fashion brand. But it is
still that plain T-shirt with logos which are prevelant. On
a personal note, I dont want people to look like walking
billboards. Generally, issues like comfort, fabric or design
are not considered. But at Samtana, our T-shirts go through
constant improvisation and are a great value for money. All
the T-shirts are Fair Trade approved which means that the
employees in the factory work in fairly good conditions and
receive a fair salary. Moreover, we are constantly making
improvements to build a better product.
How much has Samtana changed since the time you have
started?
We have gone through a lot of changes. We started the
website with a voting model to choose designs. Later, we
found an opportunity in B2B segment, wherein we were
getting a lot of inquiries from schools and corporate from
across the globe to customise and design uniforms for them.
Recently, we did some orders for Greenpeace and for a
couple of schools as well. The B2B segment has picked up
well and we get around 30-40 percent of the business . This
segment offers a lot of potential for us to grow in the future.
We also have our own packaging where we use recycled
paper and it is one of our initiatives to minimise on plastics.
CUSTOMERS IN INDIA HAVE

ISSUES WITH PAYMENT
OPTIONS AS NOT EVERYONE
HAS ACCESS TO A CREDIT
CARD AND THUS CASH ON
DELIVERY BECOMES THE
PREFERRED PAYMENT MODEL
How do you promote Samtana?

We primarily advertise it through social media platforms like
Facebook. Besides using print media we also use Google ads
to make ourself visible. We also attend a lot of ofine events
like Sunday Soul Sante and Kitsch Mande. As of now, we
try to utilise our funds to build up our inventory in terms of
designs. We have a mailing list where we keep our customers
informed about the new collections or special deals that help
them to come back to our webstore. A large percentage of our
customers come to us through word of mouth.
How did you tackle returns and issues of selection of sizes?
We have size charts that explains different sizes and it gives the
length and breadth of the T-shirt. Therefore, before purchasing
the apparel you can check which size ts you best. Inspite of
that we still have people who order a T-shirt that does not t
them and in such cases we send them another T-shirt that is
of their size. We have actually called our customers back and
asked what was wrong with the t. Also, it was our only way to
understand from customers what they really needed.
Fortunately, we have not had too many of these issues. We
are also looking at other methods of making it even easier for
customers to be able to judge their size and t without having
to physically see the T-shirt. At the end of the day, we want our
customers to come back and do not want them to have any sort
of negative experience with us.
What are the major challenges that you faced?
As a start up, the major challenge lies with courier companies
as they are volume based and it becomes very difcult to
work or get into contracts with them. The other challenge is
with the production. Because we are a small company our
manufacturing requirement is less.
What are the most common problems faced by customer

in India while shopping online?
From what we have observed, customers in India have
issues with payment options as not everyone has access
to a credit card and thus cash-on-delivery becomes the
preferred payment model. Other problems like shipping
delays, trust and terrible customer service are common.
To tackle these issues we have worked extremely hard to
provide the best possible and quickest customer service.
We have also partnered with multiple courier companies
to ensure greater delivery coverage and offer a cash-ondelivery service for those people who cannot or do not
want to pay by card.
What are your expansion plans?
Though we are focusing on all metro cities yet we are
keen to expand in Mumbai and Bengaluru where our
products have been received very well. Now that we have
one product category line going, we want to get into other
areas of clothing as well. We are slowly getting into kids
clothing, hats, bags and basically any category where we
can get the artists to show off their work.
This year, we plan to introduce a couple of more
categories, including launching the kids clothing. During
our survey on the market we observed that people are
more eager to clothe their children in organic clothing.
Through our B2B model we will target more colleges,
restaurants, hotels and hospitals. Once we have built
up enough revenue we will strengthen our backend operations and with it we will plan to shipping
internationally. At present, Samtana does not sell ofine,
but talks are on with retailers like Lifestyle store whom
we are looking out for expansion. BoF
personality of the month
WORK
YOUR
HEART
OUT
UNDER THE LEADERSHIP OF VASANTH KUMAR, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR,

MAX HAS PIONEERED THE CONCEPT OF VALUE RETAILING IN THE
COUNTRY BY OFFERING CONTEMPORARY FASHION AT AFFORDABLE
PRICES. DURING A DUOLOGUE WITH IMAGES BUSINESS OF FASHION
WE FOUND THAT KUMAR DOTES ON HIS DAUGHTER SAMYUKTA AND
LOVES TO SPEND WEEKENDS AT MALLS SHOPPING WITH HIS FAMILY.
CAREER
An enduring memory from early career days...
Diversity of India has always intrigued me and this
gave me a good insight to have a cultural connect
with the customers..
If not in the business of fashion, what would you
be? A teacher.
The thing you enjoy most about your work... Its
newness. Not a single day is repetitive and everyday
is different. There is a lot of uncertainty which is
challenging in the business of fashion.
One thing you dislike about your work...
Sometimes to overcome professional obstacles you
have to deviate your focus from innovation
and creativity.
Favourite designer or business icon... Steve Jobs.
The brand you admire the most...Topshop, London.
Signicant achievement so far... Establishing Max
amongst the top brands in value fashion segment.
It generates `1,000 crores prot across its 100
stores every year.
Key learnings in your career... There is no single
day when I can be at ease. I believe anybody can fall
and so we cant take things lightly.
If you were granted one wish for your industry,
what would it be? There is lack of proper
infrastructure. We can save a lot of time if we have
smooth roads and this will go a long way to ensure
that the fashion industry thrives.
PERSONAL
You enjoy the most in your spare time... I love listening to music and
reading books on management.
Your favourite city Bengaluru.
Favourite city for shopping Delhi, obviously for the widest range it
offers in any category.
What do you like to splurge on? Jackets. I feel that it is the ultimate
garment for men.
Favourite book Steve Jobs: The Exclusive Biography by Walter
Isaacson.
Favourite movie Life of Pi by the renowned director Ang Lee. After
watching that movie I have developed more respect for perseverance,
endurance and a love for life.
According to you, what is fashion? Fashion is something which you feel
comfortable in and goes with your personality.
Best holiday memory The Twelve Apostles in Australia.
Where can we nd you on the weekend? In the morning at the joggers
park and at the evening you can catch me with my family at the mall.
Mouth-watering cuisine or dish, according to you is Italian Pastas.
What attribute do you like the most in people? Of being candid.
Three to-do things in your bucket list Going on a wild safari in Kenya,
taking a sabbatical and teach, and going on a long trip in Himalayas.
What do you value the most in life? Respect all living being and be
humane.
What makes you smile? My daughter Samyukta, my family and to see
Max grow.
Who inspires you the most? Steve Jobs.
A piece of advice on work Believe in yourself and put your heart in
what you want to achieve.
Dear Advertiser,
As part of our endeavour to support enterprise and foster SME to expand their businesses and client outreach we
are introducing Fashion Classieds pages in IMAGES Business of Fashion-Indias no.1, B2B fashion magazine.
Fashion Creation Sourcing Domain

FABRICS TRADERS
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ELASTICS/TAPES
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IN NEXT ISSUE:
INNERWEAR SPECIAL ISSUE
If there is one fashion category in India that has seen the most
dramatic make-over in the last 25 years -- it is Innerwear. Changing
lifestyles and increasing income levels have changed the very basics of how
Innerwear is perceived, and this process of change is still in continuation.
From basic utility to fashion and sport, and then onto sensuality, comfort, and
then further onto body control/ body shaping, and wellness the journey
of innerwear continues.
Issue at a glance:
Innerwear Market Sizing & Proling
Key Players & Business Prospects
Challenges & Opportunities
Innerwear Fashion Design, Tends & Forecasts
Sportwear International
In the May 2014 issue of IMAGES Business of Fashion we
track the category its growth, trends, key players, and key insights
into the Indian Innerwear Market. Lead by a special exclusive
Industry research done which is followed up by an investigative study
wherein we talk to major retailers, brands, designers, and
fabric/bre and ingredient majors. We also look at the latest
vistas in Innerwear design, trends, and sourcing, especially
vis-a-vis innovations in stretch bres, lace, embroidered
fabrics, elastics, underwire & cupping, elastics, tapes,
and ribbons.
This will be followed by an exclusively commissioned mens and
womens innerwear trend forecasts.
The Sportswear International section will feature the best in high
fashion ideas from the fashion capitals of the world.
The IMAGES Business of Fashion, May 2014 issue promises to be truly
a very important issue for all stakeholders in the innerwear space, and
a wonderful opportunity for advertisers to be seen in a most impactful
advertising environment.
MAY 2014
kings
We close boo
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shortly r
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the May issue ur
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Your sales contacts!

BRANDS, RETAILERS &
RETAIL SUPPORT ADVERTISERS
NATIONAL: SANTOSH MENEZES
NORTH: JAYANT ARORA
+91 9818626724,
jayantarora@imagesgroup.in
WEST: MANJUSHA SOLANKI
+91 98339 92161,
manjushasolanki@imagesgroup.in
GUJARAT: PANKAJ VYAS
+91 9909977088,
pankajvyas@imagesgroup.in
EAST: PIYALI OBEROI,
+91 9831171388,
SOUTH: SUVIR JAGGI
+91 9611127470
FABRICS, FIBRES, TRIMS &
ACCESSORIES ADVERTISERS
JITENDER SHARMA
+91 9958729411
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+91 9999251621
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DENIM AND FASHION TRENDS CAPSULE FOR INDIA
APRIL 2014
CASUAL
AND
CAREFREE
contents
DENIM AND FASHION TRENDS CAPSULE FOR INDIA
108
FACTS I RETAIL
108 Mahattan Market
Retail trailblazer Dover Street market nally lands in
New York
110
FACTS I BRAND
110 Threads with star appeal
Itss not only its eco-thread which sets US- based bionic apart,
but its Creative Director Pharell Williams
FACTS I BRAND
112 An exercise in utility and simplicity
US functional brand Spiewalk is celebrating its 110th
anniversary this year and is ready for its global relaunch
FACTS I BRAND
113 Tea time
With its new tea label sub-collection, US mens lifestyle brand
Bills Khakis is wooing a younger customer
112 114
RETAIL I SUSTAINABLE FASHION

114 We are a fashion business not an eco boutique
Shopping with a clear conscience- More and more shops are
specialising in sustainable fashion
STORES I RETAIL CONCEPT

118 Womens Hour
London store Hostem has carved a niche for itself as a cult
menswear destination, following major expansion, women are
now catered to as well
SOURCING I FABRICS
120 Local goes Global
A deal struck between major Chinese textiles company
Carloway mill will see harris tweed grow internationally
118
120
SOURCING I WAGES
124 Fair pay
Everyone has the right to a standard of living adequate for the
health and well-being of himself and of his family
SHOOTS
132 Nineties in bloom
Credits for India Capsule
Editor-in-Chief: Sabine Khnl

Creative Director: Gian Luca Fracassi
Senior Editors: Maria Cristina Pavarini/Christopher Blomquist
Fashion Editor: Juliette Nguyen
Managing Editor: Wolfgang Lutterbach
124
132
facts | retail
MANHATTAN
MARKET
RETAIL TRAILBLAZER
DOVER STREET
MARKET FINALLY
LANDS IN NEW YORK.
BY CHRISTOPHER BLOMQUIST
>
The eagerly anticipated New York City branch of

Dover Street Market, the brainchild of Comme des
Garons designer Rei Kawakubo, opened its doors on
December 21, 2013 in a historic Beaux-Arts building in
the retail wasteland of 30th Street and Lexington Ave
in Manhattan. The spectacular seven-floor shop, which
joins its sister branches in London and Tokyo, stresses
beautiful chaos, according to Kawakubo. I want to
create a kind of market where various creators from
various fields gather together and encounter each other
in an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos: the mixing
up and coming together of different kindred souls who
all share a strong personal vision, she says. The large
and varied assortment of designerwear, streetwear,
accessories and jewelry (Prada and Supreme are both
on the top floor, for example) is not necessarily arranged
by gender, which only adds to visitors sense of discovery
and adventure. The first floor features a relaxation area
with a Rose Bakery. Numerous firms and artists created
the stores distinctive columns, fixtures and artworks,
including Kawakubo, London Fieldworks, Leo Sewell,
Magda Sayeg, Mark Cooper and Lauren Kelly.
108 | April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion | Capsule for India Sportswear International
April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion | Capsule for India Sportswear International | 109
facts | brands
THREADS WITH
STAR APPEAL
IT IS NOT ONLY ITS

ECO-THREAD WHICH
SETS U.S.-BASED
BIONIC APART, BUT ITS
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
PHARRELL WILLIAMS.
BY SABINE KHNL
>
Usually youve seen more then you care to of celebrities

who dabble in fashion as a nice little PR-motivated
sideline. But if the celebrity is as sure about his taste in style as
Pharrell Williams is, then youre glad to take a closer look. And if
on top of that its also about a sustainability project, the article
nearly writes itself.
And rightly so, because Bionicthe name of the company in
which music-artist-designer Williams is involved as creative
director and partneris taking a progressive approach with its
ecologically manufactured yarn. The product of durable and
flexible fourth-generation commercial textile production, this
high-tech eco-thread is made primarily from recycled plastic
bottle fiber which is used in manufacturing apparel, footwear,
bags, furniture textiles and car interiors. A patented procedure
can process lower-grade plastic that accounts for a large
majority of waste. Plastic waste poses one of the greatest
environmental problems, among other reasons, because of how
it pollutes the planets oceans, increasing the importance of
both the sensible disposal of existing waste and the reduction
of the volume of newly created waste. Bionic is not the only
attempt in this area, but thanks to its prominent backing, it can
generate more public attention.
Initially, biologist Tyson Toussant and product designer Tim
Coombs launched their company in New York in 2006 without
a major star on their team. The two friends shared an interest
in several areas: a passion for various outdoor sports and
ABOVE FROM LEFT: BIONICS PHARRELL WILLIAMS,

TYSON TOUSSANT AND TIM COOMBS; RIGHT: BIONIC CAMPAIGN
activities, an urban New York lifestyle and environmental

awareness. In 2008, the two entrepreneurs came to the
attention of multi-talented Pharrell Williams, who was already
involved in the fashion world with his labels Billionaire Boys
Club (BBC)and Icecream. Someone we all knew introduced us,
recalls Toussant. Williams adds: I wanted to balance out my
carbon footprint, including my own material purchases. It was
presumably love at first sight from then on, because Williams
not only provided creative input but acted as a partner, providing
company testimonials. Toussant says: Of course it helps to have
somebody like Pharrell with you; it draws a lot more attention.
Socially disadvantaged people, who, according to Toussant, are
almost never confronted with the topic of sustainability, become
especially interested: The music acts like a sort of connection.
Kids love hip-hop and listen to Pharrells music. They think he is
cool and thus also what he supports.
People have long begun to notice in fashion, too, and Bionic has
already contributed its innovative material to collaborations
with such well-known brands as Cole Haan, Burton, Timberland,
Moncler and Gap. Although usually involving only a limited line
or capsule collection, all the same Bionics foot is in the door.
It is not easy to get the upper hand against the competition,
especially if there are usually long-term supply agreements
in force, adds Toussant. Unsurprisingly, Bionic fibers will be
part of BBC and Icecream in 2014 as part of a special fashion
line, and in the production of all Williams brands in the not too
distant future.
New products were unveiled this summer at the Premium trade
fair in Berlin, including denim made using Bionic fibers, which
may attract new customers. Among others, there are 9 to 11 oz.
quality grades with or without stretch material and a wide range
of optical effects and treatments that are possible thanks to
the companys own wash facility.
There was a good reason for being in Berlin: Germany is
the market leader when it comes to integrating sustainable
processes in everyday life, says Williams.
At the same time, Bionic continues to carry out product
development, such as work on materials that could take the
place of fossil-fuel plastic. Because Bionic wants to accomplish
nothing less than changing public awarenessa project for
life, says Coombs: Should the day come when there is no
more plastic left for us to repurpose, we will gladly move on to
another problem that needs solving.
facts | brands
AN EXERCISE IN UTILITY AND SIMPLICITY
U.S. FUNCTIONAL BRAND SPIEWAK IS CELEBRATING

ITS 110TH ANNIVERSARY THIS YEAR AND IS READY
FOR ITS GLOBAL RELAUNCH. BY MARIA CRISTINA PAVARINI
>
American utility, workwear

and outerwear brand Spiewak
is ready to celebrate its 110th
anniversary this year with a
new global relaunch aimed at
enhancing its impressive past.
From FW 2014-15 the brands most
urban and functional division is
debuting under the control of its
new owner, Italian entrepreneur
Cristina Calori, who also owns
MAURIZIO DONADI
the Italian company WP Work in
Progress. The new Speiwak project is being managed through
a distinct organization for design, management and sales
activities.
Industry veteran Maurizio Donadi is the brands creative
director together with his team at Conduit Creative Office.
The Spiewak collections are being designed in New York by
Kunimasa Odagi for men and Lisa Yu for women. Coordinating
the project is brand manager and sportswear expert insider
Rocco Scazzariello.
The new Spiewak is an exercise in utility and simplicity, says
Donadi. Its a perfectly modern expression that fits the way
people live now. We wanted modern consumers to experience
these products and understand them through the lens of
current culture, while showing that this functional brand is
over a hundred years old, he continues. Becasue of its thick
culture and past we did this relaunch in order to bring it back as
a true piece of US history. This company has produced apparel
for workwear, military and emergency uses and had become
a part of the US lifestyle. We as a team have put together
different parts of its history and re-adapted it to modern use
and contemporary tighter fits. Though we kept our aim to
maintain each of these jackets identity as amazing objects of
art.
The fall-winter collection is split into two distinct product
linesa main Spiewak collection with a total of 40 mens and
womens outerwear pieces blending modern details, fabrics and
shapes with distinct Spiewak styles, and the newborn capsule
collection Spiewak Golden Fleece offering ten iconic archive
pieces from its archive that are made in the US and Canada.
This heritage collection is solely focused on recreating special
pieces from Spiewaks long history.
Spiewaks main offering ranges from $200 at retail for
transitional lightweight modular jackets to $600 for down filled
N3B parkas with detachable coyote fur trim. The 10-piece
special edition Spiewak Golden Fleece ranges from $450 for
CAMPAIGN IMAGES OF THE

CURRENT SPIEWAK COLLECTION
a Made in New York MA-1 Flight Jacket in 40-year-old surplus

material to $850 for a Canadian made N3B Snorkel parka with
coyote fur trim in the same surplus material.
Some special debuts gave the go for the launch of this newborn
brand. In addition to participation to international trade shows
in January 2014, the 10-piece Spiewak Golden Fleece selection
was launched with 14oz store in Berlin with a Limited Edition
110th anniversary parka. In February 2014 Ron Herman in Los
Angeles and Tokyo launched a limited edition Woodland Camo
MA-1 flight jacket for s/s 2014.
Both collections will be sold in selected specialty stores
worldwide. The main Spiewak collection will be sold to about
150 stores between Europe and Asia and to 150 in the US.
The Golden Fleece Spiewak collection will be sold to about 40
selected European doors and to 120 in the US, in addition to
selected retailers in Japan.
The main focus of the brand is still jackets, although a few
bags might also be added later. We aim at always including a
good selection of Transeasonal Core items that can be kept on
stores shelves for about nine months a year, continues Donadi.
In fact Spiewak remains a useful basic. It is utilitarian and
functional and can be worn for a long period, differently from
fashion. In addition, this brand is aesthetically very democratic
because it can be can be easlily recognized and can be worn by
everyone.
PRODUCT IMAGES OF
BILLS KHAKIS TEA LABEL
TEA TIME WITH ITS

NEW TEA LABEL SUBCOLLECTION, U.S. MENS
LIFESTYLE BRAND BILLS
KHAKIS IS WOOING A
YOUNGER CUSTOMER.
BY CHRISTOPHER BLOMQUIST
>
Founded nearly 25 years

ago in 1990, American
menswear label Bills Khakis
was an industry trailblazer long
before it became trendy and
politically correct to produce and
manufacture at home. This entirely
Made in the USA brand, which
employs 30 people and offers
up to 700 SKUs in it two annual
collections, is headquartered
BILL THOMAS
in Reading, Pennsylvania about
63 miles northwest of Philadelphia. Bills has always relied on
domestic production and it continues to employ independent
manufacturers that range from state-of-the-art facilities on the
East Coast to a lone Amish harness maker who produces the
brands leather belts.
For founder and CEO Bill Thomas, the initial product he created
commanded that it be made in the USA. The business started
as a trunk-of-the-car sort of thing, he recalls. Back in the mid
80s I was a college kid and I went to an army surplus store
and bought a pair of khakis and realized how great they were. I
couldnt resist trying to start a company that not only captured
the quality of those original WWII khakis but also sort of captured
the essence of what they represented, which was a little more
intangible. I ultimately wanted to create a brand that became a
touchstone for American values.
He continues: We are a domestically produced brand and we are
so by choice. The fact that we are making a pair of khakis that
originated from the original military khakis is a very American
thing and it didnt seem to be the same thing if we went off and
made those khakis somewhere else.
While bottoms still account for the bulk (65-70%) of this privately
held companys sales, Bills Khakis has nonetheless successfully
evolved into a lifestyle brand since it started offering

complementary items in 2007. Now, in addition to four pants fits
that range from the roomy and full original WWII-inspired Model
1 to Model 4, the slimmest fit with an 18 knee and 16 bottom,
the brand produces sweaters and knits, jeans, shirts, polos,
outerwear, accessories, sports coats and shorts. Average retail
prices for bottoms are $145 while sweaters and jackets are $195
and up.
Its account with Bloomingdales aside, the majority of its sales
come from about 500 traditional mens specialty stores in the
US. However, as these shops usually cater to older customers,
the brand thus far has attracted the 30-plus set. But that is
now changing, thanks to the slimmer, somewhat trendier Tea
Label sub-collection that was launched for spring 2014. It takes
its name from the tea that British soldiers in India used to dye
their imperial white uniforms thus creating the original khakis.
The fits historically for us have not been tailored enough to
really satisfy that 25- to 30-year-old customer who is buying
better fashion but still has a traditional sensibility. Tea Label was
an opportunity to launch something that really answered that
question, Thomas says. It was also an opportunity for us to do
certain kinds of colors, patterns, overdyed looks and washes
things that we have been doing frankly for years but they didnt
have a good place to fall within our line. Tea Label has been so
successful that it now accounts for about 25% of the brands
total offer for fall 2014. Its prices are the same as the core
collection.
Although his brand currently has extremely limited international
distribution, Thomas says that expanding overseas is not a top
priority at this time: The reason we dont actively pursue itright
or wrongis that we are sitting in the middle of the market that
has the most potential for us, the United States. Theres such
great opportunity here and we know the market so we spend our
time here. So we havent really spent our time trying to develop
an export business. But thats not to say that we wouldnt
opportunistically entertain exporting options.
ABOUT BILLS KHAKIS

Founded in 1990 by Bill Thomas in Reading, PA
Stocked by approximately 500 independent specialty stores in the US and at Bloomingdales
Two annual collections (spring/summer, fall/winter) that include four fits of khakis
and bottoms plus shirts, outerwear, accessories and sport coats
Average retail prices: $98 to $195 for bottoms, $145 to $150 for shirts,
$195 and up for sweaters and jackets
Produced entirely in the USA
Website: billskhakis.com
retail | sustainable fashion
WE ARE A FASHION BUSINESS,

NOT AN ECO BOUTIQUE
SHOPPING WITH A CLEAR CONSCIENCE MORE

AND MORE SHOPS ARE SPECIALIZING IN
SUSTAINABLE FASHION. FOR CONSUMPTION
ALONE DOES NOT MEAN HAPPINESS.
BY LISA DARTMANN
>
Downtown London. Throngs of people pass along the main

shopping street past Topshop, River Island, Primark and
New Look. They crowd into the stores, eagerly snatch shirts,
jackets and pants off the shelves and stuff them into the large
shopping bags available at the entrance. They cart sacksful of
stuff home and stuff it into overfilled wardrobes. After a few
weeks the cheap rags are thrown on the garbage heap without a
thought. Where the stuff came from and for what cheap wages
the seamstresses worked? Most people dont care. The main
thing is that the cool T-shirt costs no more than 4. Shortly after
the tragic collapse of a factory in Bangladesh, BBC London asked
passersby in Oxford Street whether their shopping behavior
would change. No, no way, answered the shopping-addicted
young people. We wont let anything interfere with our enjoyment
of shopping, and they turned away and moved on. This ignorant
behavior is typical for people in general, not just in London. Many
no longer know the value of clothing. It used to be different. Our
grandparents bought themselves a winter jacket, well made and
expensive for conditions at that time. They were proud of their
investment and wore the jacket for many years. Clothing was
solid and the brand name on the label was a guarantee of quality.
These days its all about quantity, not quality. Nonetheles there
is a sensitive minority and interest in fair clothing is growing.

More consumers are placing value on fair working conditions and
are bearing social responsibility, according to a trend study on
ethical consumption recently carried out in Germany for the Otto
Group by the Hamburg Trendbro. In view of the growing world
population and simultaneous increasing scarcity of resources
the joys of consumption are being questioned more and more.
For the respondents, health, self-determination, time with
friends and family as well as an intact environment are the most
important components leading to quality of life. Success and
being able to afford things rank far lower. Of the respondents,
60% buy ethical products because this improves their quality
of life and 83% would also like to improve the quality of life of
others by doing so. For 92% of respondents ethical consumption
means buying products in the production of which attention was
paid to working conditions fit for human beings. And just under
half are prepared to pay higher retail prices for this. However, for
more than half ethical consumption also means buying less and
having fewer possessions. Sharing, swapping and borrowing are
receiving increasing awareness.
That is new. For, over a period of decades hardly anyone had
thought about sustainability in production or about ethical
FROM LEFT, STORES, THAT TRULY BELIEVE IN SUSTAINABLE

FASHION: NUKUHIVA IN AMSTERDAM, GRUENLICHT IN BASEL
AND CHARLY+MARY IN AMSTERDAM
consumption. But at the latest since the collapse of the eightstory factory building in Bangladesh in April, when more than
1,000 people perished, many have become more sensitive.
Shocking revelations about exploited workers and terrible photos
of conditions in many production plants are shaking people
out of their apathy. As soon as a critical documentation of
textile production is broadcast, the click numbers for our portal
increase, says Mark Starmanns. Together with Katharina Wehrli,
he has been operating the Get Changed fair fashion finder
featuring around 200 sustainable shops in Germany, Austria and
Switzerland. We want to help consumers find fair fashion and
stores, for they are asking about social and ecological production
conditions more and more, says Starmanns. Do seamstresses
have to be exploited so that we can buy cheap fashions? and
Who is responsible and what alternatives exist? are questions
which Starmanns, who teaches Corporate Social Responsibility
(CRS) at the University of Zurich, answers on his website. There
are about 50,000 clicks a month on his site. But there is still
plenty to do. Many consumers still believe that wool and cotton
are inherently sustainable simply because no synthetics are
used. And anyone who has OEKO-TEX Standard 100 on his
label is still a long way from being ethically responsible, says
Starmanns.
This ethical responsibility has nothing in common with the
ecologically minded thinking of the 1980swhen they were
all green, fashion came from the Third World and coffee from
Nicaragua. Sustainable fashion nowadays looks really good, is
cool and yet produced under fair conditions. Well known labels
such as Armedangels, Nudie, K.O.I., Knowledge Cotton Apparel,
Inti Knitwear, LHerbe Rouge, Komodo and Kuyichi are offering
chic, full-fledged collections.
And with this sustainable fashion a new generation of shops is
emerging. Retailers in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and the
Netherlands are the most receptive to these new concepts. In
Scandinavia and the UK too there are many sustainable labels
but still relatively few appropriate store concepts. In southern
Europe acceptance is not very high; other problems are on
the agenda there at the moment. In the US, by contrast, a few
examples can be seen: The multibrand store Kaight in Brooklyn
is among the pioneers of the eco fashion movement. The store
was opened six years ago by former journalist Kate McGregor,

and offers attractive fashion garments from labels such as
Linda Loudermilk, Loomstate, Delforte and Lara Miller. A growing
interest in fair garments among Americans is also demonstrated
by the 2013 Retail Sustainability Report of the Retail Industry
Leaders Association (RILA). According to this report, a top elite
is emerging in retail which is concerning itself with issues such
as ethics, energy consumption, recycling, garbage disposal,
product durability, packaging design and green architecture.
The conclusion of the study: Sustainability is not an irritating
cost factor but a strategic investment. However, staff have to
be trained appropriately so that they sell sustainable fashion
articles enthusiastically and come up with new ideas.
The nucleus of the eco movement is Germany; consumers
there are very open for sustainability topics. Dsseldorf is one
example: The 120-sq.-meter (nearly 1,292-sq.-foot) Suburbia
store in Dsseldorf exudes a cozy atmospherenatural, light
wood, a parquet floor, clothes stands made of pipes and lamps
made of cardboard boxes. The changing rooms have curtains
made from old movers blankets, the chairs have patchwork
covers made from used clothing. What looks homemade was
designed by an architect for sustainable store concepts.
The owner, Renate Hunfeld, started her business five years
ago and moved into the new shop in April. The shop finally
has more space and she is planning to expand the range by
adding jeans and warehouse programs. Customers stay in
the store for a long time, talk to each other, inspire and have
a lot of knowledge, she says. It works, but you have to be
patient. Renate Hunfeld is now established and has many
regular customers such as the well-off Belgian family which
had previously shopped only at Armani, until they realized
that the Italian label is produced in China. Another example
of sustainable retailing on the Rhine is Kleiderswerth, opened
over a year ago on 70 sq. meters (about 750 sq. feet) in an idyllic
district of Dsseldorf. We are a fashion business, not an eco
boutique, says owner Kirsten Rutschke. The customers are
mainly older and come because they want to do something nice
for themselves and place value on sustainable things. Clothing
sits directly on the skin, so that agarment just has to feel
good, says Rutschke.
retail | sustainable fashion
THE BERLIN UPCYCLING TEAM RUNS A

CONCEPT STORE UNDER THE SAME NAME IN
PRENZLAUER BERG.
GLORE CONCEPT STORE, HAMBURG
Initially many consumers are unable to make anything out

of these concepts. For this reason the Fair Fashions Night in
September, a Dsseldorf event for ecological and ethical fashions
with 50 labels and more than 400 guests, gives visitors insights
on sustainability. The supplemental program included late night
shopping, a fashion show and musical contributions from the
Suibertus Gymnasium, Germanys first fair trade school. What is
common to both concepts is that neither of the two Dsseldorf
shops reduces prices that quickly. In addition, many products are
sourced from suppliers who have their warehouse nearby, so that
retailers can accommodate specific customer needs. And one
other thing unites them: They are able to satisfy the desire felt by
many consumers for transparency and being close at hand. These
customers shop in a relaxed way in their neighborhood and buy
organic apples from the region at the street market, sourdough
bread from the traditional baker and sustainable fashions in a
fashion store which they trust.
Sustainability also works in southern Germany: In 2011, 26-yearold Ingemar Maier started with kleidungsladen.de, an online
shop for sustainable fashion, and opened a shop in Passau in
August of 2012. When floodwaters struck that same summer his
dream was ended and the damage so extensive his store was a
complete loss. In October, together with a record label, he opened
a store with 70 sq. meters (about 750 sq. feet) of space in the
middle of the idyllic Upper Bavarian hills in Chiemgau. Clothing
from fair retail and records in a rural settingis that going to fly?
We are traditional, sustainable and modern, says Maier. Every
Saturday concerts with modern Bavarian music take place there
and people can also shop or order online at the same time. The
people are very open and approachable; many customers come
from Bavaria, work in agriculture and have a positive attitude
about nature. There is a lot of idealism involved. I cant get rich
doing this, admits Maier. I am not saving the world but am trying
to make everything just a little better. If everybody bought a fair
T-shirt that would be enough.
Of course the new awareness is making its mark in Berlin too: The
Upcycling Store moved into a 70-sq.-meter shop on Prenzlauer
Berg at the beginning of 2013. The team of three designers and
an office manager got to know each other four years ago in
SUBURBIA STORE, DSSELDORF
London, where they heard about upcycling for the first time. Three
years ago they launched their own label, Aluc. A blog followed
and in 2011 a pop-up store. Upcycling involves avoiding waste
by returning existing materials into the manufacturing process.
Many customers who were initially skeptical are now open and
buy our fashions because of the beautiful designs, reports Carina
Bischof happily. No hasty decisions are made in their shop. Here,
people are interested in the product and want to know how and
where things were made.
In Scandinavia, though, there are few concepts of this kind. That
is surprising because awareness about sustainability is firmly
rooted there. For example, in Sweden there is only a modest
number of sustainable shops, and most of them sell their
products online only. With typical Scandinavian reserve, these
shops are not exactly a hotspot for demanding fashion shoppers.
The web shop YoGo.se in Gothenburg for example sells T-shirts,
bags and hoodies for men, women and children. Its range also
includes T-shirts with slogans such as Save the Planet made
from bamboo or organic cotton. AstridGoesOrganic.com is another
e-commerce site with a young organic casual range, accessories
and shoe labels such as Camilla Norrback, Patagonia, K.O.I.,
Pants to Poverty and Kuyichi.
The same holds true in the UK: The main shopping streets show
that most consumers prefer cheap shopping to sustainable
fashion. However, there are a few charity shops such as Trade
and Oxfam trying to present secondhand fashion attractively.
This seems to please fashion conscious consumers, because

vintage fashion is very popular, especially in London. In addition,
the new 69b eco shop in the hip Broadway Market in East London
opened recently. It can be said, then, that responsible shopping is
gaining in importance with the British too. The Dutch, by contrast,
have already raised their ecological awareness. Charlie + Mary
in Amsterdam is a pioneer in ethical fashion. Marieke Vinck and
her partner Charlotte have been the proprietors of True Fashion
since 2009. We spotted a gap between beautiful expensive
fashion and international labels which are being produced fairly
and sustainably, explains Vinck. And more and more Dutch
people feel the same way. To gain the attention of Dutch shoppers,
the two conduct targeted campaigns. Their most recent project
strives to identify what makes people happy: We believe that
happiness is a universal and recognizable topic which people
all over the world are glad to share and which unites them,
says Vinck. It was more practical with Floortje Dessing and her
stores called Nikuhiva in Amsterdam and Utrecht. As Hollands
best known travel program host, she traveled the world for 3 op
reis on the lookout for impressive destinations and witnessed
poverty and injustice. In 2002 she became ambassador for the
Max Havelaar Foundation, which strives to raise awareness
about fair trade in developing countries. She wrote the book 100
Places in the World You Must Have Seen and in 2006 decided
to open the first Nukuhiva store in Amsterdam. Two years later
a second store was opened in Utrecht. Nuku hiva is a small
island in the Pacific Ocean and part of the Marquesas Islands.
Dessing immediately fell in love with the tiny island. And with
sustainable fashion.
In the meantime there are now even the first sustainable chains;
an example is Grnlicht in Switzerlandwhich evolved from a
love for casual trends and nature. We want to showcase green
fashion from a new angle. The fashion aspect stands quite
clearly in the foreground, and is supported by ecological and

fair production, says Corinne Ebnoether, who is in charge of
the 150-sq.-meter (1,600-sq.-foot) Grnlich stores opened in
Basel and Winterthur in April and August. This store concept,
with sustainable shop construction using certified Swiss wood
and natural stone, is also oriented towards expansion: In the
middle term 12 to 15 stores in urban locations are planned for
Switzerland, which is not a simple undertaking. We depend on
walk-in customers, word gets around; we dont advertise, says
Ebnoether. The Swiss are very environmentally aware and think
about the topic. But they also know what the latest trend is and
ask specifically about certifications.
Bernd Hausmann scarcely has time to sit peacefully drinking
fair-trade coffee and philosophizing about God and the world.
The former teacher operates four Glore Concept Stores in
Hamburg, Munich, Nuremberg and Stuttgart with 60 to 120 sq.
meters (about 650 to 1300 sq. feet) of retail space. Seven years
ago he opened his first store in Nuremberg and was met with
derision. But he stuck it out. Not by pointing my finger but
with the goal of instilling awareness, is Hausmanns motto. His
stocklist? Products of good quality which are manufactured
while observing human rights. Each store has its own manager
who is responsible for planning the range of goods, NOS and
orientation. There is a consistent store design with the focus
on the products being sold. We work professionally as does
every other retail company of our size, says Hausmann. He
adds that his employees are given the best training because
customers are knowledgeable and challenge everything.
Hausmann cannot allow himself to stand still; he wants to
continue growing with Glore. The new shop generation is to
become larger, competitive pressure is increasing. Directly next
door in Stuttgart a store with similar labels has openedthe
eco arena is not made up of peaceful co-existence alone.
FOUR QUESTIONS FOR... MARK STARMANNS, CO-FOUNDER OF THE GET CHANGED

WEB PORTAL FOR SUSTAINABLE FASHION
What criteria do labels have to fulfill to
be listed on your site?
There is no eco certification which
addresses all problems and
requirements. Each collection has to
satisfy at least 70% of our fairness
criteria. Fashion labels should have
at least one checkbox marked in the
ecology, work conditions and human
rights sections of our sustainability
matrix. If no credible certificates can
be provided, then transparency plays
an important role.
So far, Get Changed has operated in
Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Do
you want to expand?
Our concept includes plans for
expansion. That is why we will soon
have a bilingual Web presence.
Scandinavian countries have shown a lot of interest, but the Benelux

countries and the UK are also important. So far sustainable fashion
has not been very prominent in France, Poland or Southern Europe
What importance is being attached to fair fashion by consumers in
the meantime?
Awareness has been increasing since the events took place in
Bangladesh. Even India and China are looking more closely at
fair fashion. If even H&Ms CEO is calling for the introduction of a
worldwide eco label, that is already an indication of how sensitive the
topic is.
How can young people, who generally tend to shop at verticals, be
convinced about more expensive fashion which is sustainable?
All of society is called upon to educate. After the disastrous events
at textile factories, the level of awareness among young people has
definitely increased. But H&M and Primark are simply cheaper and it
costs more to create sustainable fashion. It is a question of marketing
whether we can achieve a sea-change in awareness so people think
its trendy and cool for clothes they buy to last longer. At the end of the
day, we hope that clothing will be a subject dealt with sensitively.
stores | retail concept
WOMENS HOUR
LONDON STORE HOSTEM HAS CARVED A

NICHE FOR ITSELF AS A CULT MENSWEAR
DESTINATION. FOLLOWING MAJOR EXPANSION,
WOMEN ARE NOW CATERED TO AS WELL.
BY EMMA HOLMQVIST DEACON
>
ABOUT HOSTEM
Founded in 2010 by James Brown, Hostem initially operated as a
menswear multibrand store up until the launch of its womenswear space in
October 2013. In addition to RTW collections by the likes of Comme des
Garons, Rick Owens and a host of young talents, the store offers a bespoke
menswear service in collaboration with a rotating set of designers including
Globe-Trotter, Casely-Hayford and Sebastian Tarek. The entire Hostem
space was designed by JamesPlumb.
With its informed offer and dreamlike interior concept, east London
multibrand indie Hostem is the kind of store that makes fashion
folk go weak at the kneesor indeed anyone stepping into its Dickensian
realm. Having catered exclusively for men since its inception in 2010
with focus on brands such as Damir Doma, Casely-Hayford and Rick
Owensthe store unveiled a two-floor womenswear area in October
2013. What prompted the development? Womenswear is a much bigger
business when it comes to fashion as a whole, says storeowner James
Brown. Were very confident and proud with what weve achieved
with our menswear, but weve reached a point when we have to grow
and develop as a brandthe addition of womenswear is key to this
development.
The store now occupies the entire Redchurch Street building in which
Hostem has resided since the start. Menswear is to stay put on
the ground and basement levels, while womenswear is housed in a
mezzanine-style space on the first and second floors. Making use of all
areas, a roof terrace is soon to be completed and will be reserved for
events and special projects. In total, Hostem now stretches across 418
sq. meters (4,500 sq. feet).
Hanna Plumb and James Russell of design duo JamesPlumbthe brains
behind the first incarnation of the storewere brought in to mastermind
the womenswear area, too. Instead of mimicking the original aesthetic,
which is characterized by dim lighting, rough wooden floors and shop
fittings created using a medley of preloved antiques, the two creatives
were given the challenge to rethink their approach and work exclusively
with new materials, making every detail from scratch. Most features have
been conceived to conjure a raw sense of modernity. Upon entering the
space, one is nearly blinded by the bright natural daylight flooding in from
the large windows above. To highlight the dramatic ceiling height, a set
of canvases drop from ceiling to floor, each one serving as a backdrop to
outfits displayed in an installation-like manner. The rest of the collections
are suspended from metal clothing rails protruding from wood-effect
concrete planks propped up against the wall. Angular, handmade brass
hangers and anthracite steel parquet flooring laid by hand add further to
the industrial yet strangely glamorous aesthetic.
The female Hostem consumer belongs to the same style tribe as her
male counterpart. The buying philosophy remains the same; we strive
to support designers and brands that we truly believe in, and with focus
on craft and attention to detail, says Brown. Esteemed cult names such
as Comme des Garons and Dries Van Noten coexist with marginal talent
including Phoebe English and Faustine Steinmetz, while the handmade
bags propped up on the mobile shelving systems are provided by Belgian
luxury leather goods house Delvaux. Its a precise but far from predictable
edita description that applies to both interior concept and stock.
sourcing | fabrics
LOCAL GOES GLOBAL
A DEAL STRUCK BETWEEN MAJOR CHINESE

TEXTILES COMPANY SHANDONG RUYI AND
THE CARLOWAY MILL WILL SEE HARRIS TWEED
GROW INTERNATIONALLYBUT WITHOUT
JEOPARDIZING ITS DEEP-ROOTED IDENTITY
AND LOCAL PRODUCTION POLICY.
BY EMMA HOLMQVIST DEACON
>
The story reads like something of

an industry fairy-tale: the smallest
of the three Harris Tweed mills in
existence is approached by a major
Chinese textiles company, giving the
Scottish heritage cloth the chance to
expand internationally without the risk
of commercial corruption. Youll never
see a tag saying Harris Tweed Made in
China, as moving production away from
the Outer Hebridesor indeed tampering
with the Harris Tweed Act of 1993 in
any waywould be illegal, says Bruce
Armitage, operations director at The
Carloway Mill. Harris Tweed can only be
made in very specific ways as outlined
in the Harris Tweed Act of Parliament;
the mark of the Orb will only be applied
to lengths of cloth that meet the very
highest standards and have been dyed,
spun and hand-woven by islanders of
the Outer Hebrides of Scotland in their
own homes. The fact that Shandong
Ruyi still went ahead and bought a
stake in the mill is indicative of a shift in
valueslocal production and exclusive
niche product made in relatively small
quantities are worth investing in.
The tie-up with the Chinese company
concluded in March 2013 and will
allow the intricately woven material to
enter the territory without having to
battle with complex business laws. The
potential growth of The Carloway Mill
and the Harris Tweed industry as a whole
is significant as Shandong Ruyi has a
domestic market of 1.3 billion people, as
well as sales presence in 51 countries
across the world. But rapid expansion is
not on the cards, nor is reaching as many
territories as possible. In fact, offering
Harris Tweed to the masses

is virtually unattainable.
We believe that we will
grow but must do so in a
managed and controlled
manner as our main priority
is to deliver cloth to the high
standard that is expected,
explains Armitage. This
takes time, since Harris
Tweed production is very
labor-intensive and involves
a long logistical process.
In addition, wed like to
continue accommodating
our clients requests for
bespoke orders and these
take considerable time to
LOOM IN THE CARLOWAY MILL, ONE OF THE LAST THREE HARRIS TWEED
MILLS ON THE HEBRIDES
complete.
In 2012, production of Harris Tweed
an increase in young people wanting
reached a million meters, more than
to train for future positions within the
double the amount produced in 2009.
mill or as self-employed weavers, says
This surge can be partially attributed to
Armitage. It seems that the future of
the centenary of the Harris Tweed Orb,
Harris Tweed is secure and its gentle
but the enduring heritage trend has
expansion will heighten local production
boosted the popularity further, while
and artisanal skills passed on from
the Harris Tweed industry has taken
generation to generation.
active steps to remodel its image by
teaming up with designers and retailers
ranging from Rag & Bone to Topman,
THE CARLOWAY MILL AND
and by doing so highlighting the youthful
HARRIS TWEED
versatility of the cloth. The estimated
The Carloway Mill is the smallest of the three
meterage between all three Harris Tweed
Harris Tweed Mills in existence today. Harris
mills for 2013-14 is three million to five
Tweed can only be made in very specific ways as
million. To aid the anticipated surge,
outlined in the Harris Tweed Act of Parliament;
the industry will invest in new looms
the mark of the Orb will only be applied to lengths
and a training program has been put in
of cloth that meet the highest quality and have been
place for would-be weavers on the Isle
dyed, spun and hand-woven by islanders of the
of Lewis. Theres a renewed interest
Outer Hebrides of Scotland in their own homes. The
among locals to get involved in the
Harris Tweed Orb celebrated its centenary in 2011.
Harris Tweed industry and weve seen
industry | comment
QUIETLY AND SECRETLY

DO GOOD THINGS, YES. BUT PLEASE DO
THEM WITHOUT BLARING IT OUTAND NOT TO
DISTRACT FROM A LACK OF GOOD DESIGN
OR CONVINCING FITS.
BY MARIA HUNSTIG
>
The nice thing is that the interest

in sustainability has increased
substantially in recent years. According to
the recently published Otto Group trend
study 2013 study, 46% of those surveyed
spend more money on ethically correct
products than they did one or two years
ago. If it was hardcore eco apostles who
bought green apparel earlier, the group of
those who would potentially buy fashion
items which have been manufactured
sustainably has gotten much larger. This
new group is willing to spend moneythe
only catch is the gap in what is out there.
On the one hand there are the clearly positioned
eco labels such as Hessnatur, Armedangels and
a large number of small-label designers where the
steps in the textile production chain are conscientious. But
for those who want to wear fashionable and trendy looks,
they arepardon my saying it so bluntlyleft in the cold by
these collections. And then there are all the organic and
green collections which come sliding toward you at every
single vertical retailer. But what exactly do these terms
mean anyway? What are they worth? It has long been clear:
Terms commonly heard in the organic, eco and ethical area
are being instrumentalized for marketing reasons. But is
that the right approach? Lets not kid ourselves: Fashion still
sells because of the way it looks. Dont get me wrong, though,
I really do consider it important to give a lot of thought to
where clothing comes from. But still, the way it wears, the
cut and attractive material are the decisive arguments when
deciding to buy a pair of slacks, more so than sustainable
cultivation. Those who care about organic quality in meat
and milk and buy fair-trade coffee and only buy their shirts
from one retailer which monitors the work conditions of its
workforce can still drive a car with a lot of horsepower and
travel to faraway destinations three times a year. That was
a sentence from the Otto trend study. Meaning, the new
consumer who is interested in making ethical purchases
is pragmatic: sustainable, by all means, but only if it
accommodates his lifestyle and expectations and there are no
compromises when it comes to aesthetic appeal and quality.
It would be nice if more collections could

put all of that together. It would also be
nice if, when purchasing a premium
product, you can simply assume that
the money you are spending on it was
used for a product manufactured
in accordance with the best eco
practices. That is not currently
possibleit is no secret that jeans
selling for 15 and those retailing for
250 are often produced at the same
factories in equally poor conditions.
So the question which still needs to be
answered is how the price for expensive
jeans can be justified. Ah, right, the
marketing expenditures.
Nudie Jeans, which pays workers at its only Asian
production facility fair wages and has been making jeans
using 100% organic cotton since 2012, offers carefully
worked out recycling optionsand communicates all that
on its website and almost nowhere else. We dont want
people to buy apparel from Nudie because we are paying
our workers living wageswe want them to buy our products
because they like them, says Sandya Lang, CSR manager at
the Swedish jeans label. Thats spot on, because those who
are interested in background details will be reached and
all other customers will buy because they like the product.
Instead of spending money on expensive eco marketing,
more should be put into design and personnelthen the
conversion will work without too much loss in profits.
If sustainable and fair fashion should in fact become
mainstream, then it has to shed its unappealing organic
aura. And that only works if your product is truly good. Do
good and talk about it? Yes and no. Its indispensable that
consumers can find out about production conditions under
which brands are made on a companys homepage or at
its stores. But the rest of corporate communication should
focus closely on having consumers associate brand names
with an attractive style or look instead of compulsively
adding green attributes to the brandbecause (so far) that
hasnt been the tipping point when it comes to fashion
shoppers.
sourcing | wages
(PHOTO: PAUL PRESCOTT/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM)
FAIR PAY EVERYONE HAS THE RIGHT TO A

STANDARD OF LIVING ADEQUATE FOR THE
HEALTH AND WELL-BEING OF HIMSELF AND OF
HIS FAMILY. AS OBVIOUS AS THIS MAY SOUND IN
THE DECLARATION OF HUMAN RIGHTS, IT IS NOT
EASY TO IMPLEMENT IN PRACTICE.
BY REGINA HENKEL
>
You read and hear about it

again and again: If the garment
companies in this country would
only pay a few cents more to their
suppliers, workers in the producing
countries would finally be assured of
decent wages. These few cents more
would not do any harm either to the
company or consumers and the hard
life in the producing countries would
be a little easier. Instead, the garment
industry is subjected again and again
to criticism of its exploitative working
conditions. And this criticism goes
back many years. But as is so often
the case, the solution to the problem
is not quite so simple. For, even though
the businesses would be perfectly
willing to support their suppliers in

paying a so-called living wage, it fails
to be implemented. And it does so for
a variety
of reasons.
Exactly where the difficulties in
achieving a living wage lie has been
investigated in various segments of
the garment industry in recent years
by institutions such as the Fair Wear
Foundation (FWF). The objective of
this Amsterdam-based nonprofit
organization is to improve labor
conditions for garment workers. Its
members, which include labels such
as Acne, Nudie, Filippa K, Kuyichi,
Odd Molly, Mammut, Vaude and even
Takko, have committed to paying their
suppliers living wages or at least to

working toward this. Living wages often
differ substantially from minimum
wages laid down by the state and can
be several times higher than these.
For example, in Bangladesh the legal
minimum wage is Tk3,000 (Bangladeshi
taka, about 28). Labor unions and
NGOs however are demanding a living
wage of a good Tk12,000 (approx. 112)
a month. The most recent study carried
out by the FWF on the topic of living
wages was published in the summer
of 2013 and focused on the outdoor
apparel industry. The results can be
applied to the entire garment sector,
says Ivo Spauwen, who was in charge
of the study. We were concerned
sourcing | wages
THE TEN PRINCIPLES OF THE UNITED NATIONS GLOBAL COMPACT

above all with finding out how it is
possible to establish and implement a
living wage in the companies in practice.
The first thing to be established was:
How would prices in the stores really
change if the wages component of
production costs really rose to a living
wage level? It was shown that in
countries such as China the gap to the
level of the living wage being called
for is already relatively small or that
to some extent a living wage is already
being paid there. In other countries
such as Bangladesh and Vietnam, by
contrast, the gap is very large. If wage
costs rose to the extent being called
for, says Spauwen, this would mean an
increase in retail prices in this country
of between 3% and 30%. However,
neither consumers nor companies
would be able to bear a rise of 30%. The
interesting thing is that this enormous
price rise is above all an effect of the
percentage calculation models currently
in use. Because if production costs rise
by only a few cents, production margins,
customs, manufacturers margins and
retail margins plus value added tax rise
automatically. The original small amount
quickly gains in size. In these yield
calculations based on percentages, even
increases of under 5% would already
be problematic. For us, this means we
have to get retailers and consumers to
come on board, on the one hand, and on
the other the calculation models must
be readdressed, Spauwen concludes.
Developing alternative calculation
methods has thus become an important
task for FWF.
But the problem lies even deeper, and
here the sector has to exercise some
self-criticism. As a rule, purchasing
staff have two additional problems
with paying a euro more for a T-shirt,
explains Mark Starmanns. Last year as
a lecturer at the University of Zurich
he supervised a masters thesis on the
topic Living wage in Tirupur, India and
advises companies on sustainability
management. Starmanns says: First,
buyers are not confident that factory
managers will increase wages when
they increase the purchase price.
Second, an increase in the purchase
price has little effect on the workers
Human rights
Principle 1: Businesses should support and respect the protection of internationally proclaimed human rights.
Principle 2: Businesses should make sure that they are not complicit in human rights abuses.
Labor
Principle 3: Businesses should uphold the freedom of association and effective recognition of the right to collective
bargaining.
Principle 4: Businesses should uphold the elimination of all forms of forced and compulsory labor.
Principle 5: Businesses should uphold the effective abolition of child labor.
Principle 6: Businesses should uphold the elimination of discrimination in respect of employment and occupation.
Environment
Principle 7: Businesses should support a precautionary approach to environmental challenges.
Principle 8: Businesses should undertake initiatives to promote greater environmental responsibility.
Principle 9: Businesses should encourage the development and diffusion of environmentally friendly technologies.
Anti-Corruption
Principle 10: Businesses should work against corruption in all its forms, including extortion and bribery.
wages if only one buyer increases the

purchase price. To make it possible
for the factory manager to pay higher
fixed wages, most of the clients of the
factory must accept higher wage costs,
and as a rule that is not the case. Only
a single customer who is willing to pay
higher prices is not enough. The trend
to switch suppliers quickly also means
that factory managers are not willing
to bear the risk of higher wages alone.
Once someone starts paying a higher
wage, it is not easy to revert to lower
pay again. For this reason, a culture of
long-term relationships with suppliers
would be essential. What would be
imaginable, says Starmanns, would
be to deliberately source only from
factories willing to cooperate with the
buyers regarding wages, and to use
between 60% and 80% of their capacity.
Unfortunately, it is just this willingness
to cooperate that is missing in the
garment sector, which conceals the
identity of its manufacturers.
That is why the FWF is already

considering a model which might
bear fruit more quickly through
an independent party. This agency
could then administer a fund in the
producing countries which would pass
on payments directly to workers without
having to be subject to factory decisionmaking. The client would pay a certain
percentage of the value of the order
into the fund per order and the workers
would receive a wage subsidy regularly
and directly. But even this model would
be anything but easy to implement in
daily practice in developing countries.
The complexity of the topic will probably
keep us busy for a long time. But if the
garment sector wants to shed its bad
image, it has to come up with a solution.
And it has to as quickly as possible.
REAL STATEMENT SHIRTS

Dhaka, Bangladesh in April 2013. 1,129 people die during the
collapse of a textile factory. In context of a collaboration with
fashion designer Bobby Collade, artist Manu Washaus has now
printed a selection of press pictures of the catastrophe on
sweatshirts. The five art pieces shall remind consumers of the origin
of clothing.
focus | newcomer
NETWORKING IS KEY
HOW DO I MAKE MY FIRST STEPS INTO THE WORLD OF FASHION? WHERE

AND HOW DO I START? THESE ARE QUESTIONS WHICH PRESUMABLY
EVERY FASHION STUDENT ASKS AFTER GRADUATION. NEW SOCIAL MEDIA
PLATFORMS WHICH ARE SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO ATTRACT FASHION
SCHOOL GRADUATES MAKE THE INITIAL STEPS IN A NEW CAREER
EASIER. BY TATJANA VON ELVERFELDT
>
Those graduating from fashion design school

are finding it harder to attract the attention
of potential employers from the sector and set
themselves apart from most other graduates. Online
platforms such as 1 Granary and Graduate Fashion
Germany offer a way out of this dilemma. Recent
graduates can present their final design portfolios
and showcase their talent at these websites. Fashion
companies can also access these sites and narrow
down their list of prospects and approach the
graduates directly.
Many fashion students are quite simply at sea and
do not know how to go about developing themselves
after graduation. There are so many young, talented
students here at Central Saint Martins (CSM) who
simply lose their way in the fog of time, says Olya
Kuryshchuk, founder of the 1granary.com platform. She
wants to change this state of affairs and with fellow
students from Central Saint Martins, she started up
1granary.com in London at the end of 2011. Students
at CSM can upload their final projects free of charge.
In addition to Graduates, there is also a Fashion as
well as Interview section. Visitors to the site can view
excerpts of sketchbooks, current projects and samples
of work as well as view interviews with undergrads and
alumni. With 250 works listed, it would seem individual
designers might get overlooked. However, this is not
true. Reviews by industry players and the

successful job search of users confirm
this. Companies and agencies, Comme
des Garons, SHOW Studio and Leagas
Delaney, for example, even support the
platform with sponsoring measures.
One successful example is that of the
young Russian designer Tigran Avetisyan.
He published his final exam portfolio
and an interview on 1 Granary. Directly
after his closing show, there were already
people interested in buying his oversize
T-shirt, including Christoffer Lundman,
at the time head menswear designer at
Acne, and Stavros Karelis, buying director
with Boutique Machine-A in London.
German fashion school graduates
have been met with far less attention.
Saskia Heilmann, fashion design school
graduate of CSM and the founder of
the German online platform Graduate
Fashion Germany (GFG) explains: In
London, graduates are already being
scouted, represented by agencies or
getting job offers while they are still
finishing their studies. That is rarely
the case in Germany that anybody even
comes to a final fashion show. Why is it
that way? Is it because of the quality of
German-speaking graduates? Heilmann
discounts this. There are gaps in every
country, depending on the special focus of
the university, applied science college or
vocational training institute. However, to
make it easier for graduates in Germany

to get started, Heilmann founded the GFG
platform in 2012. Students and graduates
of German fashion universities can
upload their work there free of charge and
connect with industry representatives.
Heilmanns credo: Networking is key.
Many graduates give the platform a
positive review because of the insight
which can be gained there and how it
facilitates landing a job in fashion. Simone
Friedrichs, designer and co-founder of
the Walter & Friedrichs label says: GFG
is an important platform. Not only does it
list fashion schools, you can also review
the latest work of graduates, which is the
calling card of any fashion school. Lena
Hasibetherin, who founded her eponymous
label in 2010, praises GFG: The
Information on Graduates section is a very
good idea. Young design talents can get a
good overview of all the information they
need for prospective jobswithout having
to spend days on end researching it.
There is also concise information on the
fashion business available to university
grads in the US on the Fashion Campus
NYC site. For three years now the
New York City Economic Development
Corporation has held a three-day info
event with Parsons New School for Design
for New York fashion school graduates.
Students can take part in workshops
on such topics as Career Paths, Case
Studies and Panel Forums featuring
experts in the areas of sales, finance,
production, strategy and marketing. Brad
Hunt, a talent scout for outfitters Brooks
Brothers, says: We have come across
ambitious students as well as committed
young entrepreneurs at the workshops.
The fact that top quality candidates show
up there has made the event a mainstay
of our talent search.
The Fashion Campus NYC is also helpful
for networking. The focus on New York
does not rule out that there will be an
international audience. At the same time,
this event could serve as a model for
fashion centers such as Dsseldorf when
rolling out events of this kind. Online
platforms such as Graduate Fashion
Germany and 1 Granary can also be
taken as models by fashion schools in
other countries to expand their reach to
international markets.
FROM TOP: WEBSITE 1 GRANARY, ONLINE

PRESENCE GRADUATE FASHION GERMANY; PHOTO:
CARMEN KIRCHHAIN
NETWORKING PLATFORMS
GERMANY
Graduate Fashion Germany
Founder/ Project Management:
Saskia Heilmann
graduatefashion-germany.com/
contact:
info@graduatefashion-germany.com
GRADUATE
FASHION
GERMANY
FOUNDER
SASKIA
HEILMANN,
PHOTO: CARMEN
KIRCHHAIN
ENGLAND
1Granary
Founder/Editor-in-Chief: Olya Kuryshchuk
1granary.com/
contact: info@1granary.com
USA
Fashion Campus NYC
newschool.edu/parsons
nycedc.com
fashioncampusnyc.com
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APRIL 2014 | VOL. XV | NO.

BEST IN MERCHANDISE AND

APRIL 2014 | 146 PAGES | VOL. XV NO.4 | www.imagesfashion.com

Editor-In-Chief: Amitabh Taneja

Jayant Arora, Sr. Manager

Waseem Ahmad, Vice President & Branch Head

Piyali Oberoi, Assoc. Vice President & Branch Head

Suvir Jaggi, Assoc. Vice President & Branch Head

Pankaj Vyas, Manager

Hemant Gupta, Associate

TEXTILES, TRIMMINGS & EMBELLISHMENTS

IMAGES MULTIMEDIA PVT. LTD.

For subscription related queries, email to: subscription@imagesgroup.in

contents | April 2014

Letters To The Editor

Accessories Polish Your Formal Look

Emergence of Western Formal Wear

Trend Byte: Western Formal Wear FW 2014-15

W and Indigo Nation

Duke Sun 'n' Surf

Linen Club: The Niche Fabric

Raghavendra Rathore: After the Hiatus

THE FORMAL WESTERN

Ethix Clothing: About Dreams and Ethics

Fendi Drones Up Tech-Fashion

Fashion Trends at Large

ILPA: Bag and Baggage

Apparel for a Cause

Work Your Heart Out

letters to the editor

24 | April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion

front gate fold: ROCKSTAR

BEING HUMAN CLOTHING INDORE

STUDIO TARA MUMBAI

28 | April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion

BOF BRAND TRACKER

30 | April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion

IMAGES Business of Fashion | April 2014 | 31

32 | April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion

Owing to the fact that majority of the population in cities

Baggit has its presence in 61 cities across India with 28

for women this season is a look of condence with personal

IMAGES Business of Fashion | April 2014 | 33

Mark Twain once said, Clothes make the man. Naked

where you can lounge in a draw string trouser or shorts with

OTHER FACTORS CONTRIBUTING TO THE CHANGE

IMAGES Business of Fashion | April 2014 | 35

GROWTH OF TIER -II CITIES: Consumption in smaller cities is fast

SO WHAT IS WESTERN FORMAL WEAR?

FORMAL ATTIRE IS THE ENSEMBLE OF A MAN,

Women are gradually moving away from wearing ethnic wear to

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

THE VIEWS EXPRESSED IN THE GUEST ARTICLES ARE THOSE OF

38 | April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion

40 | April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion

IMAGES Business of Fashion | April 2014 | 41

DISTRIBUTION OF MENS FORMAL

DISTRIBUTION OF WOMENS FORMAL

42 | April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion

MENS WESTERN FORMALWEAR

KEY TRENDS IN FORMAL WESTERNWEAR

44 | April 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion

PRIVATE LABELS PROMISE OPPORTUNITIES FOR VALUE-CONSCIOUS

WOMENS WESTERN FORMAL WEAR IS POISED FOR HIGH GROWTH