A.

B.
()(Cellulose fibers)
:
(cotton fiber)(Linen)(
(rayon) )(Tencel)(Modal)(Acetate
)
()-OH(
):

()(Protein fibers)

()
()
TPAEGBHT

(2)(Polyamide fibers)

(3)(Polyacrylonitrile fibers)

(-SO3H)(-CONH2)

()

(Site)


1.

(energy)
(1)

/(kcal/mol)
(Van der walls)

(2)

/(kcal/mol)

2.

(1)

()
WD

()
(Chrome)
(Chrome lake)

(2)

(Van der walls)


(A)

1845
1856
1858
1860
1865
1873
1876
1880
1884
1887
1890
1901
1912
1915
1921
1928
1929
1930
1938
1956
1971

Perkin

Aniline Black
alizarin

Witt
Orange
Bayer
Para Red
Congo Red

Primuline Red

Indanthrene
Naphthol AS

Indigosol
phthalocyanine

Rapidogen
Pigment Resin Color

benzidine--naphthylamine

B
(1)Dyeing as a mass transfer process

DYEBATH

FIBER

DYE

DYE

INTERFACE

(2)

DF
S[D]F
[D]S


(1)

SO3NaCOOH

2Acid dyes

pH=4.2~4.8pH

pH

WH2NWCOOH

FiberNH2 HSO3Dye

Fiber with
basic amino
group

Dye with
acidic sulfonic
acid group

FiberNH3SO3Dye

Dyed fiber with

salt linkage between
dye and fiber

(3)
(Acid Mordant dyes and Metal complex Acid dyes)

(
)

11
1211

12

11

12Acid Violet 78

(4) (Vat dyes and sulfur dyes)

(
-----)

(A)

()

(1)(2)

(A)
(a)

2H

R-S-S-R

2R-S-H

2R-SNa

(b)

2 R S Na
()

O
H2O

R S S R + 2 NaOH
()

(5) (Reactive dyes)

SDTX

[1] Reactive Black 1

D
S
T
X

6~7
5

(1)
(dichlorotriazine)

(1)

(6) (Basic dyes)

(7) (Disperse dyes)

(E)(HS)
()(SE)

(A)
()
-OH-NH2-NHR-NO2

F
(
)

(B)

(Van
der Waals)

()

(8) (Pigments)

Pigments + Binder
() ()

Printing
()

OH
ester
ether

A
1OH

2DMDHEU2D

3BTCA
OH

(B)
(1):
-OH-NH2-COOH

(2) :

(C)
(1):

Velam PFZeilan PAVelam PF

(2):

(D)
(1)-

(alkylamine)(dicyano
diamide)

15010
Bancroft

(2)-
(TiCl4)(SbCl3)

(3)THPC
(Proban)(trimethylol
melamine)
140
4~5

Warren S. Perkins, Textile Coloration and Finishing, Carolina Academic Press.