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ODELLIN FANTASY TOWNHOUSE BY DAVE ANDREWS AND PHIL LEWIS This month we take a look at building a large town house for Warhammer Fantasy Battle. We take you through making the house with step-by-step guidelines and include templates for all the basic shapes. All you need is stiff card, balsa wood, modelling knife and glue. ‘We've also included the templates for a variant town house with extensions plus notes on how this differs from the basic house. All the techniques are straightforward, even for the novice modeller ~ following our simple guidelines, you'll easily be able to make these buildings and add them to your scenery for Warhammer Fantasy Battle. STRUCTING THE TOWN HOUSE ‘The first step in making the town house isto wansfer the design for the building onto Your card. Photocopy the template and then fix ito your card with masking tape or small pieces of sellotpe. Now take a pin and make ahole trough the template into the card at each of te corner point For the roof edges, make quite a few holes along the length of the edges so you ean easly join them up to get the right curved shape When you've pricked a hole dough all he points, remove the template. You should find tat you've gota join-the-dots copy ‘ofthe template on your card. Take a pencil and draw inthe Vines between the holes ~ you should have a perfect copy of the town hove ouline which you cutout ready to assemble Exploded view of Town House [Now you've got the main pars of your town house cut ou, you rnoed t assemble the basic shape ofthe building. Glu the four walls to a ase of reasonably thick card so there's a fair-szad Overlap al around te building. You need wo glue along the base ofeach wall and long the sides where the walls mest ~ glue the front and back walls £0 they fit inside the end walls. Don't bosther putting onthe roo, chimneys or overhang floor ye. MODELLING WORKSHOP We've marked the positions for all the timbers on the templates ~ this is just to give you a ough idea where they £9 tnd it doesn’t mater if you don"t match these positions ‘acily. Infact if you make more than one building it's a 00d idea to vary the postions of the doors, windows and Timbers so that each building is different “To got the length ofeach timber, simply hold picce of balsa ‘wood up against the model and mask off witha penil where you've goto cut “The end poss are made with two pices of balsa, one cut into 4 sirp half the width ofthe other. As shown in the photo Above, stick the first piece on s0 i juts out fom the sie of the building then simply but the second, thinner piece upto it y For the curved timbering that runs slong the wp edge ofthe cod walls se the walls themselves asa template to mark out the shape on a piece of balsa. The strip of balsa you cut out ‘should Took something like an upside down V ~ you may find ita bit easier tout this timber out as two separate pieces. MODELLING WORKSHOP Les ‘The door is simply a rectangle of thin balsa wood cut to size nd glied in place — the existing timbering already forms the door frame. Ifyou want, you can score tree or four lines into the surface ofthe balsa wood to represent planks, For the door hinges, glue thin strips of card or plastic into place. For the handle ether glue a small blob of modelling pully onto the door or push a round-headed pin through the balsa and ear ‘The sides ofthe windows have already been formed by the vertical timbering so to makes the windows you just need ‘id « window ledge. First cut oot x small secon of thin balsa tnd roundoff the corners along one edge. Stick this to the wall ‘vith the rounded edges to the font to make the window ledge. ‘Another small suip of balsa glued vertically above the ledge fives the impression of two thin upright windows, z [Now you need toad the floor tothe overhang. This just drops inside the building and sts ontop ofthe ground flor Front wall. Once you've checked it fits, glue it int place and then lve on the timbering under the overhang. Cut the roof out of thin eard and score it long the middle to make it easier to bend in two I's also a good idea to curve the ‘ard by flexing it gently ~ this makes it easier to glue to the ‘erved rof edges. Before you glue iin place, cut Out the two holes forthe chimneys. Check the fit of the ro to see ifthe vertical tmbering gets slightly inthe way. I's only the work of a moment to trim these to the same angle a8 the slant ofthe roof by using an emery board or sandpaper. r Tas chimneys are made from small squares of card, about 10 12mm (") square. Glue these together into a box shape without base, then glue them into the holes in the oof Ifo, ‘want, you can glue small rectangles of ard othe chimney to represent bricks, We made the chimney pois from short lengths of hollow plastic ube ~ you could also use balsa dowelling, the tops from tubes of glue of anything similar. If you want to make sure ofa secure fit, glue a short length of wire tothe inside of the chimney pot and push it down into the card of the chim. (Cut the tes forthe oof ou of thin card — we made ours about 0am by 6mm (4" by 4"). You ean either cut the tiles out individually, or eut thin slivers out of strips of card to make a ‘whole row ata time ~ use whichever method you prefer, Always glue the tles onto the roof stating atte bottom and ‘working your way up. Each row should overlap the one below ~ stagge the cats between the tls so they dot Ine up. For the ridge tiles, make a double-width row of tle and score them dovn the centre 50 that they fold over the apex of the roof. If you want you can glue an upright strip of card or plastica along the ridge itself. This ean be cut, or filed if You're using thicker plasicard, to give a pattem along the top txge. A spike glued to each end ofthe ridge is ance finishing touch, Before adding the upright poss tht support the overhang, you ‘might want paint the ffont of the ground floor ~ its abit Fidaly to paint once the uprights are in place. Measure the posts by holding them up to the building and marking the Tengths off with pencil. A thin wash of Poyflla or Tetrion ‘inted onto the panels ofthe building give it textured look En hide the cut edges of card that may stil be visible in one fortwo places. Use an old brush of size 2or3 and thin the filler ‘down with water nil you get the right consistency ‘You can sprinkle small areas of sand over PVA glue on the roof tw give the effect of moss (once painted) or on the walls to represcat small growing plans and lichen. The base may also be textured with sand and you can add small round-comered, rectangles cutout of thin card wo represent paving ston. PAINTING THE TOWN HOUSE “The frst thing is wo give the building a white undercoat — matt white car spray is good fr this. Next paint all the panos with {light grey or light brown colour. A lrgsh brush (size 2 or 3) is most suitable here. [Now paint all the timbering ineluding the windows and ‘doorftames. You can get an old oak effect by starting with a mix of Ghoul Grey and Brown Ink. A light drybrush with [Bronzed Flesh picks out the grain of the wood. Ifyou want black timbering use Chaos Black anda deybrish of Elf Grey ‘When doing the drybrushing, make sure you take as much pain off the brush a8 you can or you're likely to get a streaky finish. Although it takes abit longer, t's worth giving the ‘wood a drybrush~ it's easy to do and picking out the grain, improves the appearance ofthe building no end If you want to go a stage further with the walls, you can stipple a lighter colour into the middle of each panel, ‘gradually fading out towards the edges wo give the impression ‘of the timbers casting shade. For the roof, it's best to use a "of 1" brush. The secret isto

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