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Denbigh Castle, Town Walls and Friary Prue Clase aU eled Dewstert lies about half way between the main North Wales coast road (A548) and the main road from Llangollen to Betwry-Coed (AS). The exstle, with the walls of the old town, St Hilary's Chapel and Leicester's Church are sited on the high ground immediately south ofthe present town centre (Ordnance Survey 1:50000 map 116; tin map 108; reference SJ 052687). The Friary lies on the outskirts of the town just ‘east ofthe road (A525) to St Asaph (reference SJ 059666). ‘The cover devices taken fom a seventeenth-centary sal of Denbigh Corporation. SEASON TiexETS, valid for a year from the date of isue, admit theie holders to all ancient monuments and historic buildings in ehe care of the State. Tickets can be purchased at many monuments, at HMSO bookshops, from Ancient Monuments Administration, Department of the Environ- ment, Ty-Ghiss, Lhnishen, Cardiff, CF4 SUP, and from the ‘Departmeat of the Environment (AMHEB/P),25 Savile Row, London WIX 2BT, which will supply full information on request. Mac Toeynwav Txmon, sydd mewn geym am fiwyddyn © ddydaiad ew choi, yn caniatiu mynediad i'w deiliaid i'r hol henebion ac adeiladn hanesyddol sydd_yng ngofal y Wladwriacth. Gelli prynu'r toeynnau mewn amcyw hencbion, yn Siopau Liyfau Ei Mawrhydi, o'r Adran Gweinyddu Henebion, Adran yr Amgylchedd, Ty-Gls, Lisnishen, Caerdydd, CR4 SUP, ac oddi wrth Adnan yr Amgylchedd (AMHDB/P), 25 Savile Row, Llundain WIX 2BT, le y gllir cael gwybodseth lawn. Prepated by Department of the Environment con behalf ofthe Secret Paratowyd gan Adran yr Amgy ac ran Yagrifennydd Gwladol Cymma Denbigh Castle, Town Walls and Friary cLwyD Castell Dinbych, Mur y Dref a Ty’r Brodyr L.A. S. BUTLER MA,PhD, FSA LONDON: HER MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE © Crown copyright 1976 Firt published 1976 ISBN 0 11 67078 Contents pace 6 int Mt 2 4 exywopen—sunmary in Wels aston ‘Building the castle and town, 1282-1311 Lancaster, York and Tudor, 1311-1588 Civil War, 1643-48 Great Gatehouse Prison Tower Badnes Tower Porters Lodge Tower ‘Chapels Great Kitchen Tower Great Hall White Chamber Tower Pitcher House Green Chambers Postem Tower Mandet Treasure House Tower Tower-next-Treasure-House and Bishop's Tower Red Tower History Desetiption Burgess Gate Countess Tower Goblin Tower ssrcesran’s cHURcHE 8 6 [NOTE ON BUILDING MATERIAIS FURTHER READING Illustrations PLATES PLANS ‘The Catleas it might have boen in the fourteenth century Castle Hill from the south-west ‘The Castle from the air Great Gatehouse Burgess Gate from outside the Town Walls ‘Burgess Gate from within the Town Walls Town Walls Town Walls—Goblin Tower Site and Tower of St Hilary's Chapel Leiceste’s Church—north wall from the interior Friary Church Location plan Burgess Gate St Hilary's Chapel Leicester's Church Friary Church ‘The Case Teta eh ne 2 16 0 18 2 2 31 2 38 2 10 35 7 a Crynodeb HANES Ni cheic unrhyw dystioleth gadam ynglyn 4 chasell cynharaf’ Dinbych, ond athosodd Llywelyn ap Torwerth yma ym 1230 ac ya Ninbych yr ocdd pri amadiffynfa Dafydd ap Gruffudd ym 1282. Ni welie dim o olin y eyfaod wn. ‘Adciladwyd y castll presennol ym 1282 gan Henry de Lacy ar orchymyn Edward 1 ac yr oedd bron wedi ci gwbihau erbyn marw Henry ym 1311. Parhaodd y castll yn nwylo Saeson eri Henry Percy ("Hotspae”) gefnogi Owain Glyndsie yma 1402, ‘ac ym 1460 daliodd Jasper Tudur y castell ar ran y Lancastriad Henry VI. Dim ond yn hanner y castelly geld byw wedi’ dyddiad hwn: bu Robert Dudley, Tarll Cactlj 1563-1568, yn byw yno ar brydiu fl ei bef breswylfod yng Ngogledd (Cymru. Yin ystod y Rhyfel Cartref daliai William Salsbury o Rug y castll rhwng 1643 a 1646, a gwahodd Charles Ti atos yno am ychydig ddyddiau yin mis Medi 1645 a dioddef gwarchae o chwwe mis ye ha canlynol. Y CASTELL ‘Mac gwaith adciladu’r castell yn amlwg ya perehyn i ddau brif gyfnod. 1 ddechrau adeiladwyd ymylon gorllewinol a deheuol y cast gyda tyra plan banner cewn a llenfriaw led denau; roedd hyn yn fan wedi 1282. Yn ail, codwyd ymylon wyreiniol a gogleddol y castell gyda thyran mawe, cymbleth chwe-ochrog ac ‘wyth-ochroga llenfur talach a letach; oedd hym ar 611286, mae'n debyg. ¥ trydydd cam oedd diogely'r amddiffynfeydd cynharaf gan lenfur allanol new “fanlee” tua ‘hanol y Wedd gan. Y Ty Porth Mawr oedd y brif amddifynfs a ehriehwr eysylltiedig; maent yn ddebyg o ran cynllun i Gaernarfon ac mae'n debyg mai James © St. George, pri sict 1maen Edward I. Yr oedd tyrau'r mur dwyreniol yn eysgodi’ newadd ac ystafelloedd preifc tculy'r arglwydd. Yn y gweddil o'r ys cei y stablaw a'r sediau storio ym cexbyn y Hen. MURIAU'R DREF Mac's chan fryaf o furiau'r dref wedi goroesi ac ar agot i ymwelwyr. Adeilad- ‘wyd y marian wreiddiol ar ddiwedd y 13edd ganif yr un pryd ir call. Yn y ‘edd ganrif cadarnhawyd y ddan borth ac adciladwyd mur ychwanegol i ddiogelu'r ‘ynnon na sychaifyth. Symudodd y rhanfwyaf o drigoion y dee di is wa diwedd 1 1Sfed ganrf. Cee ti thir rhwwysgfawe: Porth y Boergis, a Hui’ bf fymedta itt dref, TWr yr larlles gyda’ gasgliad deniadol 0 ysafelloedd, a Thite y Coblyn sy'n amddifim y ffynnon yn y gwaclod ac a gysyltir 4 rhodfeydd y mur ar ddwy lefel i mur tof eynharaf. 6 DENBIGH CASTIE CAPEL SANT HILARI Yeoedd y capel hwo, yng nghanol ydrefofewn y mur, yn ddibynnol ar Whitchurch (Ulanfarchell) sef mam-eglwys ye ardal. e' hadeladwyd yx wrcidil tua 1300 yn fran wedi scfydlu’rdref, ond gumaed llawer 0 gyfnewidiadau iddo cym ei dynna i laywe ym 1923. ¥ te yn unig sy'n sfyll heddiw. EGLWYS LEICESTER (DEWI SANT GYNT) ‘Ym 1578 cychwynnodd Robert Dudley, aril Caeelpr,adeilad hirsgwar mawr ond nid oedd wedi ei orfen pan ft farw. Ye eglwys hon yw'e adeilad Protesannaidd newydd cyntaf'w gynlluni fel neuadd bregethu aif ei fori allanol hyd heddiw hhyd at y to. Mac'n bosibl y bwriadai Leicester y bydei ei eglwys yn eymryd le Eghwys Gadeitiol Llanelwy. TY'R BRODYR, DINBYCH Ffarfiwyd tr Carmelaid neu’r Brodye Gwynion tua divedd y 13edd gansif yn nyffryn Afon Cleryd, bron fill i'r dwyrain o Dainbych. Ni wyddysisicewydé pry afi sliodd, ond tua diwedd y canol oesocdd nawdldogid y «yn arbennig gan deal Salisbury o Lyweni. Saif y shan fwyaf o'r eglwys. Saif y than ddwyreiniol, cbc y brodyr, hefjd hyd at y 0. Mae dews ym mur y de yn dynodi “man cerdded”; tua’ gorllewin ceid y sale pregcthu ar gyfer y gynulleidfaleyg. Nid oes un than © adeladau'e clas a sy'n haw ci holeain, Summary ‘The said Castle is built upon a rock of tone, very stately and beauty, ina very vet ai, seven miles from the se and near tothe same Castle area few ouses and a fir chapel HISTORY ‘There is no firm evidence about the catiest este in Denbigh, but Llywelyn ap Torwerth stayed here in 1230 and Dafydd ap Groffydd had his main stronghold at Denbigh in 1282. Noching ofthis period can be seen. ‘The present caste was built in 1282 by Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, on the orders of Edward I and was largely completed by Henry's death in 1311. The castle remained in Englsh hands though in 1402 Henry Percy (“Hotsput”) supported (Owain Glyndsir and in 1460 Jasper Tudor held i for the Laneastrian Henry VI Only half of the castle couid be lived in after tis date. Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester 1563-88, occasionally lived here as his principal residence in North Wales. ‘During the Civil War William Salusbury of Rig who held the castle from 1643-46, entertained Charles for afew days in September 1645 and withstood a six-month siege in the following summer. THE CASTLE ‘The building ofthe ease fills clearly into two main periods: fst, the western and southern sides of the castle were built with plan halE-xound towers and fairly chin curtain walls—this was shorly after 1282; second, the easter and northern sides of the caste were raised with large claborately planned hexagonal or octagonal towers and a thicker and higher curtain wall—this was probably after 1286, A third stage was the protection of the earliest defences by an outer screen wall or mantlet in the mid-fourteenth century ‘The main defence was the Great Gatchouse with thee interlinked towers; they are similar in plan to Caemarfon and were probably designed by James of St George the ‘master mason of Edward I. The towers of the eastern wall sheltered the hall and the private apartments of the lord's houschold. The remainder of the courtyard was ‘occupied by stables and store sheds see agains che curtain wall 8 THE TOWN WALLS Most ofthe town walls survive and are open to vistors. The walls were originally buile at the end of the thirteenth century simultaneously with the castle, In the fourteenth century the two gates were strengthened and an addtional wall on the cast was built to protect a never-iling wel. Most of the town-dwellers moved to lower ground in the Ite fifteenth century. There are three impresive towers: the Burgess Gate, which formed the main entrance into the town, the Countess Tower, with an attractive range of rooms, and the Goblin Tower which protects the well in its bsement and i linked by wall-walks at two levels to the ealiee town wall ‘St HILARY'S CHAPEL This chapel in the centre of the walled town was dependent on Whitchurch (Uanfarchel), the morher-church of the area. Ie was oxiginlly builtin about 1300 soon afer the foundation ofthe town, bu sufeed many alterations befor its demali- tion in 1923, Only the tower sill sands. LEICESTER’S CHURCH (OLD St DAVID’S) A lnege rectangular building was started in 1578 by Robert Dudley, Ext of Leicester, ‘but was unfinished at his death. This church is the fist new Protestant building in Britain planned at a preaching hall and its outer walls still stand to roof height. Leicester may have intended his church to replace St Asaph Catbedal, DENBIGH FRIARY ‘The house of the Carmelite or White Friars was founded towards the end of the thirteenth century in the valley of the Clwyd, nearly a mile east of Denbigh. The founder is not known for certain, but in the later Middle Ages the iiary was especially patronised by the Salusburys of Leweni.The greater part ofthe church remais. The caster portion, the friars’ choi stands to roof height. A door in the south wall indicates the access tothe “walking place” while tothe west was the preaching nave for the lay congregation, No cloister building is readily visble Plan 1 Location Plan History Denbigh Case crowning the rocky hill which dominates the Vale of Clwyd is an “English foundation of 1282. The town which spreads down the hilkide to the oor of the valley is also English in its origin, Yet the place name incorporating the element “dina,” a rocky fortress, suggests an eariee defensive post pesibly leon Age and certainly from the age of the Welsh princes, LIywelyn te Great was visited herein 1230 by the abbot of an English monastery and this would imply cha some princely residence occupied the hilltop. The brother of Llywelyn the Last, Dafydd ap Gruffyd, regarded this as his principal stronghold and here he had a hall, private chamber, chapel, buttery and bakchouse within a cout. ts defences were substantial enough for ie to withstand the atacks of an English army for nearly a month when, 282 resul of Dafyeel’s revolt, Edward I undertook the systematic conquest of North Wales in 1282, Yet as fara is known nothing of this remains. BUILDING THE CASTLE AND TOWN, 1282-1311 ‘The caste was undoubtedly begun within a few days of the grant of lordship on 16 October 1282 to Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, During the latte days of October the King and de Lacy were both at Denbigh planning and setting out the new fort fications. Royal resources were used to help with the intial operations, £22 being spent on “clays,” cartage of timber and of necesary tools. The presence of Master James of St George, the designer of Convry and Caemarfon castles, may indicate his involvement in the plan adopted at Denbigh. ‘Once the King had stated the work, he left is accomplishment in the hands of Henry de Lacy. This was the pattem in nocth-east Wale with de Grey ar Ruthin and de Warenne at Hole as well as de Lacy at Denbigh to secure the access route feom England while Edward 1 conguered Llywelya's stronghold of Snowdonia and held itm an ion grip with a ring of castes. The grant ofthe lordship of Denbigh and the ‘antred of Rhufoniog provided de Lacy with the necesary resources to continue work fon the twin project of cae and town. By 1284 the development was sfficienly far advanced for de Lacy tobe concerned with stocking his deee park and by 1290 at the latest he was able to gran the first borough charter to all men dwelling within the walls The strength of the new defences was tested in the Revolt of Madog in 1296 nbigh Castle was captured by the Welsh and de Lacy, while atempeing to retake it, was defeated and forced to retire. The eastle was only retaken when the rising had collapsed clewhere. Ie is uncertain how filly the castle was completed when de Lacy died in 1311, There isa strong tradition, recorded by Leland in 1535, thatthe Earl's clest son, Edmund, fll nto the castle well and died and that as 2 result Henry never finshed the castle. There are indications tht che Great Gatehouse was unfinished and 1 Plate 1 The Caste as it might have been in the fourtegnth century Reconstruction drawing by Alan Sorrell there are also account ros detailing payments for work on the Red Tower in 1374 However, i s clear that the main elements of the plan bad been Inid down in 1282 and that the major part was undertaken by 1311 LANCASTER, YORK AND TUDOR, 1311-1588 ‘The marriage of the heiress Alice de Lacy to Thomas Earl of Lancaster ensured that the castle and town fll into che hands ofa great lord who was well able to continue the necesary building work. It is only possible to deduce from architectural evidence that the work here, as at Cacrnacfon, was in progress until the execution of Thomas at Pontefract in 1322. During the first haf of the fourteenth century the lordship of Denbigh was regarded rather asa prize to be awarded for loyalty tothe King and was hald successively by Hugh le Despencer, Earl of Winchester, Roget Mortimer, Eatl of March, and William Montague, later Farl of Salisbury. William obtained it in 2 DENBIGH CASTLE reward for capturing Mortimer with Queen Isbell in 1330 and held it for ewelve years. During this time the remaining internal ranges of the eastle were probably bulk, bue work was sill n progres late inthe century when the caste was regained by the Earls of March, In 1374 some £21 was spent on roofing material for the Red ‘Tower and on other minor repairs in stone and timber. in 1398 and 1411-12, when the eastle was confiscated and in royal hands, cher are accounts for work a the “New Tower” (pethaps the lower gate of the postem or on the Town Walk), the Red Tower and the “Green Tower” (probably the White Chamber Tower); most of those relate to minor repairs caused by roting timber or crumbling sandstone. Some ofthe ater repairs may have been made necesary when the eastle was held by Henry Percy “Hotspur” in support of Owain Glyndvr; in 1402 the town was burnt and fora long time the burgeses of Denbigh were inthe forefront ofthe hostilities because Glyndsér supported the claims of Edmund Earl of March to be king instead of the Laneastrian Henry 1V. ‘This uncertainty was not reelved during the Wars of the Roses. The Yorkists took over the chims and territory of the Ear of March, inching Denbigh. The Laneastian Henry VI appointed bis half-brother Jasper Tudor, atl of Pembroke, to be constable of Denbigh caste in 1457 and on two occasions Jasper launched deter- mined attacks on Denbigh, holding it for a few months in 1460-61 bat filing in a second attack in 1468. Inthe later attack the town was burnt and it may have been in this period of warfare that the town moved ouside the wall leaving ‘Thomas Stringer to be “porter of the gat ofthe outer ward of [he King’ castle of Denbiegh and surveyor of his works there.” The lst echo ofthese wars seems to be the grant of 200 marks forthe repair of the Denbigh walls carly in 1485 being the balance of 1500 marks granted by the Yorkist King Edward IV in 1462 to the burgeses towards rebuilding the town. Daring the sixteenth century litle was done beyond some routine maintenance ‘der Robert Lloyd as “clerk of the works and repairs.” By about 1530 a survey described the Great Gatehouse as able to be repaired at little charge: the Green ‘Chambers and the Treasure House Tower as well repaired; “all che rest are much in decay inthe timiberwork, and mos in the lead.” In 1532 the Bishop of St Asaph was using one ofthe towers s the prison for his diocese. In 1561 a all and detailed survey ‘was made of the extle and showed that only the Great Gatehouse, Kitchen Tower, “Treasure Howse Tower, Red Tower and the Green Chambers were in repair, the remaining buildings being cither ruinous r in utter decay. It is ftom this survey that the names of many towers are known. A brief revival inthe fortunes of the easle came when it was granted to Robert Dudley, Ear of Leicester, in 1563. He took the title of Lord Denbigh, made some small repairs in the residential partsof the castle and B to the town walls, but paid fir more attention to the new church he erected inside the wall, posibly intended to be the new cathedral for north-east Wales. CIVIL WAR, 1643-48 ‘At his death in 1588 Leicester had left the castle litle better than when he received it from Queen Elizabeth 1. Two further surveys in 1594 and 1603 indicated that the habitable parts of the castle were restricted co the Grecn Chambers and four towers ‘The other towers and walls both ofthe eastle and of the town, now regarded as the coater ward ofthe castle, were in decay and beyond repair. As late as 1621 pat of the castle was habitable for its governor, but the tsk of making ita defensive refuge for 2 royalist garison inthe Civil War was considerable undertaking, Willam Salusbury of Rig near Corwen was responsible for defending it and he spent liberally for the King’s cause, from the time of his appointment in 1643. Afr his defeat at Rowton, Heath near Chester, King Charles stayed in Denbigh for three days late in September 1645. He is believed to have lodged inthe Great Kitchen Tower, afterwards known as the King’s Chamber or King Charles’ Tower. ‘Colonel Salusbury withstood a six-month siege from April to October 1646. ‘Throughout the siege both the castle and town walls were eld as one and the main cfforts ofthe auackers were directed at an attempt to baer down the Goblin Tower and so deprive the garrison of the water supply in the height of summer. Crescent shaped earthwork bastions or ha-moon mounts were dug to protect the artillery and they can sill be traced. However it was the isolation of this garrison of 500 mien from all hope of rlif that caused its surrender. For the remainder of the war the castle was used as a prison for captured royalits and during the Commonwealth a small garrison was maintained there. After the Restoration of Chatles If the castle and walls were allowed to fall nto ruin, but about che middle ofthe nineteenth century a local “Castle Comittee” was formed to keep the runs in repair and considerable work was carried out. In 1914 the castle and walls were transferred to the Commissioners of Works. They are now main tained by the Department ofthe Environment on behalf of the Seeretary of State for Wales. 4 The Castle ‘The building of the eustle fills clearly into two periods. At the carlicr period the westem and southern sides of the castle were built with phin hal-round towers connected by relatively thin curtain wall. These were part of the town walls which were the first work constructed after the capture of the site in 1282. During the ‘Edwardian conquest of North Wales it was the normal practice, when the terrain encouraged sucha course, to build first of lla ring of outer defences using wherever possible the existing stronghold to protec the men engaged on the work. There seems lide doubt that this procedure was followed at Denbigh, though there is no evidence for an earlier structare. The design ofthe towers may be best compared to Conwy. “When this fst ring of defences was completed the next stage would have been building the caste either within or adjoining them; at Denbigh it was placed inside the south-west comer, the highest and most easly defended pare of the town, The construction of the second period consisted ofa much thicker and higher curtain wall, guarded at intervals by hexagonal oF octagonal towers on the northern and eastern sides of the castle, The Great Gatehouse, impressive a the highest point ofthe hil, was formed by an claborate interconnected arrangement of thice octagonal towers. ‘Within the area enclosed by the curtain wall there were placed the Great Hall and the Jord’s lodging along the eastside ofthe courtyard, while the store sheds and stabling ‘were ranged along the westside. The later work ean also be distinguished by the use of fawn, red or grey-green sandstone to accentuate the quoins angle stones; generally the red sandstone seems to indicate the latest stage inthe building. This work bears a close comparison with CCaemarfon and it seems probable cha James of St George was the master mason responsible for the design of the Great Gatehouse. The use of a chequer pattem of fawn sandstone and white limestone is ditinetive feture on the Gatehouse of the castle and the Burgess Gate of the town. It can ako be seen on the Bowling Green ‘or Bastion Tower and more sparingly elsewhere [At the same time those portions of the town wall which formed the curtain wall of the castle were heightened and alo strengthened on the southern and western side by the construction ofan outer line of defences (or Mantlet) with a postern and sally- port. To this period also belong the easter salient of the town walls, including the ‘Goblin Tower, the extension ofthe buildings at the Countess Tower and the Burgess Gate in is present form, GREAT GATEHOUSE ‘The main entrance to the castle is through the Great Gatchouse. This was the most impressive structure and received a high degree of architectural treatment. It was 45 Plate2 Castle Hilfrom the south-west approached originally through a barbican, the foundations of which lie underground between the present iron gate and the mode wooden bridge. The 1361 survey Aesribes the barbican as being Gyd (8.5m) in length and Syed (7e) i height. The walls at the outer end of the barbican continued on either side a the retaining walls to the cxstle ditch, and this can be seen on the north side. The ditch was about 30 (lm) wide but was never completed west of the entrance. Init can be seen part of a large lime kiln, octagonal externally bur circular within, needed for preparing the lime mortar for the building. This is one ofthe largest known examples of sich a kiln, though smaller examples may be seen at Coty and Ogmote in Glamorgan. The ditch was crosed by a causeway of natural rock leading tothe entrance and trinine ating atthe omer pit ofthe deawcidge. ‘The Great Gatchouse consists of three octagonal towers, one placed on ether side of the entrance and a third placed behind them within the coureyard; thee three towers and their connecting wings of masonry enclosed a large central hall in. the shape of an icregular octagon. They are known as the Prison Tower on the right (west) of the entrance, the Porters’ Lodge on the left (est) and the Badnes Tower to the rear The entrance pasage is spanned by a fine deeply recesed arch springing from the fice ofthe towers; in the wall above was placed a carved panel flanked by ‘wo window openings. This panel hasa border decorated with a bll-lower ornament and contains within a tefiled niche eh seated figure of aman, posibly Edward 1 ‘The sequence of defence inthe outer entry (4 on Plan 6, inside the back cover) was first the drawbridge, then the outer portilis and the outer door, and finally the inner portculls and the inner door. The two pits of the drawbridge are visible. Just 16 Plate The Castlefromtheair(Aerofims Ltd) within ehe inner pit ean be seen the semi-circular seating on which the deawbridge pivoted. The passage between the drawbridge and the outer portclls was defended through which mises could be dropped on atackers. These holes are visible in the crown of the outer atch. Behind the counterpoise pt was the outer door. This was commanded by narrow loop-holes within the rowers on either Side, but the masonry is now much ruined and the complete arrangements cannot be reconstracted, Passing through the outer door the outer entry could then be blocked by che inner porteullis, the grooves for which are clacly visible on either side of the entry in the room above. Ac this point in the entrance passage a doorway on the le Jed into the porter’ lodge. The inner door was placed at the entry into the octagon. ‘The octagonal hall (B on Plan 6) was vaulted in stone and itis probable that che crown of the vault rose to the floor level of che rooms above the entry. Above it there appears to have been a great chamber of similar plan and two of the stone corbels by two “murder-hole which supported the roof are visible on the north-west side. Another storey was planned above this but it may not have been completed. ‘Theinner entry (Con Plan 6) lead feom the west side of che ocagen into the court- yard. Ie was guarded by a portullis, of which part of one groove remains on the west side of the entry and by a door, the position of which is marked by the hole for the

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