CUPRINS

CAP.1. INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................1

1.1. Cosmetic industry worldwide..........................................................................3
1.2. European market of Cosmetics.....................................................................11
1.3. Romanian Cosmetic industry an up to date and competitive one.............14
1.4. National professional organizations in the field of cosmetics and toiletries 23
1.4.1. Romanian Society of Cosmetology (RSC)............................................23
1.4.2. Romanian Society of Cosmetic Chemists (RSCC)...............................24
1.5. International professional organizations
in the field of cosmetics and toiletries..................................................................26
1.5.1. COLIPA.................................................................................................26
1.5.2. IFSCC....................................................................................................27
CAP.2. GLOSSARY OF THE FIELD ...................................................................31
CAP.3. COSMETICS AND CARE PRODUCTS .................................................55
3.1. Definition of cosmetics ................................................................................55
3.2. Classification of cosmetics ...........................................................................56
3.3. Skin care products.........................................................................................57
3.3.1. Creams and lotions...............................................................................58
3.3.1.1. Cream formulation ......................................................................62
3.4. Hair care products.........................................................................................64
3.4.1. Shampoos .............................................................................................66
3.4.1.1. Shampoo formulation...................................................................66
3.4.2. Conditioning products .........................................................................69
3.4.3. Waving products ..................................................................................71
3.4.3.1. Formulation of the waving products ...........................................75
3.4.4. Products for hair coloring ....................................................................77
3.4.4.1. Formulation of permanent hair dyes ...........................................79

3.4.5. Semi permanent hair dyes ...................................................................86

3.4.6. Temporary dyes ....................................................................................87
3.4.7. Natural coloring products ....................................................................89
3.4.8. Styling aids ..........................................................................................90
3.4.8.1. Hairsprays ....................................................................................90
3.4.8.2. Styling mousses ...........................................................................97
3.4.8.3. Setting lotions ..............................................................................98
3.4.8.4. Hair gels .......................................................................................99
3.5. Color cosmetics ..........................................................................................102
3.5.1. Lipsticks .............................................................................................102
3.5.2. Nail polish ..........................................................................................106
3.5.3. Nail polish removers ..........................................................................109
3.5.4. Face powder .......................................................................................110
3.5.5. Eye makeup ........................................................................................113
3.6. Toiletries .....................................................................................................115
3.6.1. Oral care products ..............................................................................115
3.6.2. Shaving products ...............................................................................123
3.6.2.1. After shave products ..................................................................126
3.7. Deodorants and antiperspirants .................................................................127
3.7.1. Antiperspirants ..................................................................................128
3.7.1.1. Roll- on antiperspirants .............................................................128
3.7.1.2. Stick antiperspirants ..................................................................129
3.7.1.3. Spray antiperspirants .................................................................130
3.7.1.4. Cream antiperspirants ...............................................................131
3.7.2. Deodorants .........................................................................................132
3.7.2.1. Stick deodorants ........................................................................132
3.7.2.2. Spray deodorants .......................................................................133
3.8. Perfumery ...................................................................................................134
3.8.1. Development of a perfume .................................................................136
3.8.2. Perfume types .....................................................................................143
3.8.3. Cologne waters ...................................................................................147
3.8.4. Toilet waters .......................................................................................148

3.8.5. Perfuming the cosmetic products ......................................................149

CAP.4. RAW MATERIALS FOR COSMETICS ...............................................153
4.1. Biotechnology and Cosmetology ................................................................155
4.2. Raw materials of the Cosmetic and Toiletry Industry ...............................157
CAP.5. BOTANICAL EXTRACTS FOR COSMETIC USE ............................161
5.1. Types of botanical extracts .........................................................................161
5.1.1. Aqueous extracts ................................................................................163
5.1.2. Alcoholic extracts ..............................................................................163
5.1.3. Oily extracts .......................................................................................164
5.1.4. Macerates ...........................................................................................164
5.2. Main botanicals used in cosmetics .............................................................166
5.2.1. Aloe ....................................................................................................166
5.2.2. Matricaria chamomille ......................................................................168
5.2.3. Laminaria ...........................................................................................169
5.2.4. Calendula officinalis ..........................................................................170
5.2.5. Panax Ginseng ...................................................................................171
5.2.6. Equisetum arvense .............................................................................171
5.2.7. Cucumis sativus .................................................................................172
5.2.8. Salvia Sclarea .....................................................................................172
5.2.9. Urtica dioica .......................................................................................172
5.2.10. Rosemarinum officinalis ..................................................................173
5.2.11. Tea tree oil.........................................................................................173
5.2.11. Lawsonia alba ...................................................................................175
5.3. Procedures of obtaining oily extracts .........................................................176
5.3.1. Maceration .........................................................................................176
5.3.2. Pressure procedure..............................................................................176
5.3.2.1. Apricot kernel oil .......................................................................177
5.3.2.2. Avocado oil ................................................................................177
5.3.2.3. Castor oil ...................................................................................178
5.3.2.4. Grape seed oil ............................................................................179

5.3.2.5. Borage oil ...................................................................................180

5.3.2.6. Kemiri oil ...................................................................................181
5.3.2.7. Jojoba Oil ...................................................................................182
5.3.3. Extraction by solvents ........................................................................182
5.3.3.1. Wheat germ oil ..........................................................................182
5.3.3.2. Rice bran oil ..............................................................................183
CAP.6. SURFACTANTS .......................................................................................185
6.1. Generalities ................................................................................................185
6.1.1. HLB Index...........................................................................................185
6.1.2. Stabilizing the cosmetic emulsion......................................................186
6.1.3. Surfactant types ..................................................................................187
6.2. Surfactants in cosmetology.........................................................................188
6.2.1. Anionic surfactants ............................................................................188
6.2.1.2. Sulfuric acid esters ....................................................................191
6.2.1.3. Sulphonic derivatives ................................................................193
6.2.1.4. Amino acid derivatives ........................................................197
6.2.1.5. Phosphoric acid derivatives .................................................199
6.2.2. Cationic surfactants ...........................................................................200
6.2.3. Amphoteric surfactants.......................................................................203
6.2.4. Non-ionic surfactants .........................................................................206
6.2.4.1. Ester type surfactants .................................................................206
6.2.4.2. Ether type surfactants ................................................................215
6.2.4.3. Amidic Surfactants ....................................................................216
6.2.4.4. Polymer Surfactants....................................................................217
6.3. Choice of the appropriate surfactant ..........................................................217
6.4. Surfactants as emulsifiers ..........................................................................221
6.4.1. Oil in water (O/W) emulsifiers ..........................................................221
6.4.1.1. Anionic emulsifiers ....................................................................221
6.4.1.2. Cationic Emulsifiers ..................................................................221
6.4.1.3. Non ionic Emulsifiers ................................................................222
6.4.2. Water in oil (W/O) emulsifiers ..........................................................222

CAP.7. EMOLIENI ............................................................................................225

7.1. Alcooli grai................................................................................................227
7.2. Uleiuri minerale (hidrocarburi)..................................................................227
7.2.1. Vaselina (petrolatum)..........................................................................228
7.3. Uleiuri animale i vegetale..........................................................................230
7.3.1. Grsimi naturale.................................................................................232
7.3.2. Uleiuri vegetale...................................................................................235
7.4. Ceruri naturale............................................................................................235
7.4.1. Ceara de albine...................................................................................235
7.4.2. Ceara Carnauba, Ceara Candelilla.....................................................237
7.5. Siliconii.......................................................................................................238
7.6. Alegerea emolientului.................................................................................239
7.7. Corelaia structur-comportare...................................................................243
CAP.8. CONSERVANI ......................................................................................247
8.1 Necesitatea conservrii. Aspecte generale...................................................247
8.2. Metode fizice de prevenire a contaminrii.................................................250
8.3. Conservarea produselor pe cale chimic....................................................251
8.3.1. Aspecte legislative. Conservani admii ............................................251
8.3.2. Utilizarea conservanilor n produsele cosmetice...............................257
8.3.3. Ageni de conservare anorganici........................................................259
8.3.4. Ageni de conservare organici............................................................259
8.3.4.1.Parabenii......................................................................................259
8.3.4.2. Formaldehida i donorii de formaldehid..................................260
8.3.4.3. Derivai halogenai.....................................................................263
8.3.4.4. Derivai de fenoli........................................................................268
8.3.4.5. Alte tipuri de ageni de conservare.............................................269
8.3.4.5.1. Climbazolul........................................................................269
8.3.4.5.2. Compui cuaternari............................................................270
8.3.4.5.3.Derivai de piridin.............................................................271
8.3.5. Compoziii de conservare (amestecuri de ageni)..............................272

8.3.6. Ageni de conservare naturali.............................................................279

8.3.6.1. Farnesolul...................................................................................280
8.3.6.2. Uleiul volatile din arborele de ceai ( Tea Tree Oil)....................281
8.3.6.3. Extract din Arbutin Bearberry
(Strugurii ursului - Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi)..........................................284
8.4. Antioxidani.................................................................................................284
8.4.1 Aspecte generale. Fenomene oxidative. Tipuri de antioxidani..........284
8.4.2. Antioxidani naturali...........................................................................286
8.4.2.1.Tocoferolii....................................................................................287
8.4.3. Antioxidani de sintez.......................................................................288
8.4.3.1. Palmitatul de ascorbil.................................................................288
8.4.3.2. Antioxidani fenolici...................................................................289
8.4.3.2.1. Butil hidroxi anisolul (BHA).............................................289
8.4.3.2.2.Butil hidroxi toluenul (BHT)..............................................289
8.4.3.2.3. Galaii.................................................................................290
8.5. Alegerea agentului de conservare optim. Probleme de formulare..............290
8.5.1. Ageni de intensificare a aciunii conservanilor...............................291
8.5.2.Agenii de chelatizare..........................................................................291
8.5.3. Interaciunea ageni de conservare ingrediente cosmetice..............292
CAP.9. COLORANI I PIGMENI ................................................................297
9.1. Colorani anorganici - pigmeni..................................................................306
9.1.1. Probleme generale...............................................................................306
9.1.2. Oxizii de fier.......................................................................................310
9.1.3.Oxidul de titan.....................................................................................311
9.1.4.Ultramarinele.......................................................................................312
9.1.5. Oxizii de crom....................................................................................313
9.1.6. Albastrul de Prusia..............................................................................314
9.1.7. Pigmenii violei de mangan...............................................................314
9.1.8. Oxidul de zinc.....................................................................................315
9.1.9. Pigmeni sidefai.................................................................................318
9.1.9.1. Oxiclorura de bismut..................................................................319

9.1.9.2. Mica i oxizii metalici................................................................312

9.1.9.3. Pigmeni tratai chimic (acoperii).............................................322
9.2.Colorani naturali ........................................................................................323
9.2.1. Carminul (Roul de coenil)............................................................324
9.2.2. Betanina..............................................................................................324
9.2.3. Carotinoidele.......................................................................................325
9.2.4. Annato.................................................................................................326
9.2.5. Clorofila..............................................................................................326
9.2.6. Guanina hipoxantina.......................................................................326
9.3.Colorani organici de sintez.......................................................................327
9.3.1. Colorani indigoizi..............................................................................328
9.3.2. Colorani xantenici.............................................................................329
9.3.3. Colorani trifenil metanici..................................................................330
9.3.4. Colorani azoici...................................................................................331
9.3.5. Colorani antrachinonici.....................................................................335
9.3.6. Colorani nitrozici ..............................................................................336
9.3.7. Colorani cu grupe nitro.....................................................................337
9.3.8. Colorani de chinolin........................................................................337
9.3.9. Colorani ftalocianinici.......................................................................337
9.4. Alegerea colorantului..................................................................................338
9.4.1. Introducerea colorantului n formule..................................................340
CAP.10. SUBSTANE FOTOPROTECTOARE ...............................................341
10.1. Probleme generale.....................................................................................341
10.2.Substane fotoprotectoare...........................................................................343
10.2.1. Ageni de ecranare............................................................................344
10.2.2. Ageni de filtrare...............................................................................344
10.3. Aspecte legislative.....................................................................................353
10.4. Ageni fotoprotectori naturali....................................................................357
10.5. Formularea cu substane fotoprotectoare.................................................357
CAP.11. POLIMERII N INDUSTRIA COSMETIC .....................................363

11.1 Probleme generale......................................................................................363

11.2. Polimeri pentru fixare i condiionare......................................................365
11.2.1. Polivinil pirolidona...........................................................................366
11.2.1.1. Copolimerii vinil pirolidonei cu dimetilaminoetil metacrilatul 369
11.2.2. Polivinil caprolactama i copolimeri ai caprolactamei...................369
11.2.3. Poliuretanul.......................................................................................370
11.2.4. Copolimerii acetat de vinil / acid crotonic.......................................371
11.2.5. Copolimerul acidului metacrilic cu acrilatul de metil......................371
11.2.6. Copolimerii acidului acrilic, acrilatului de etil i acril amidei........371
11.2.7. Polimeri de condiionare...................................................................371
11.2.7.1. Polimerii cationici....................................................................372
11.3. Modificatori de viscozitate........................................................................374
11.3.1. Aditivi reologici naturali...................................................................378
11.3.1.1. Guma Xanthan..........................................................................378
11.3.1.2. Guma Tragacantha....................................................................379
11.3.1.3. Derivaii de celuloza.................................................................380
11.3.1.4. Hidroxipropil guar....................................................................382
11.3.1.5.Derivati de amidon....................................................................382
11.3.2. Polimeri sintetici modificatori de viscozitate...................................385
11.3.2.1. Carbomeri.................................................................................385
11.4. Hidrogeluri................................................................................................387
11.5.Proteine ......................................................................................................389
11.5.1. Colagenul..........................................................................................389
11.5.2. Proteinele funcionalizate.................................................................390
11.6. Siliconii......................................................................................................390
CAP.12. ODORANTE I AROMATIZANTE NATURALE ............................393
12.1. Introducere................................................................................................393
12.1.1. Parfumurile naturale.........................................................................394
12.1.2. Parfumurile organice.........................................................................395
12.1.3. Parfumurile sintetice ........................................................................395
12.1.4. Parfumurile artificiale.......................................................................396

12.2. Uleiuri volatile (eseniale).........................................................................398

12.2.1. Proprietile fizice ale uleiurilor eseniale........................................400
12.2.2. Compoziia chimic a uleiurilor volatile .........................................400
12.2.2.1. Terpene i terpenoide................................................................401
12.2.2.2. Terpeni i terpenoide aciclice...................................................402
12.2.2.3.Terpene i terpenoide monocliclice...........................................410
12.2.2.4. Terpeni biciclici........................................................................412
12.3. Procedee de obinere a uleiurilor volatile.................................................413
12.3.1.Hidrodistilarea...................................................................................416
12.3.1.1. Aparatura..................................................................................417
12.3.1.2. Antrenarea la foc direct............................................................420
12.3.1.3. Antrenarea n curent de vapori.................................................420
12.3.1.4. Antrenarea cu abur sub presiune..............................................421
12.3.1.5. Antrenarea la presiune redus..................................................421
12.3.1.6. Procedee moderne.....................................................................421
12.3.2. Extracia cu solveni organici...........................................................422
12.3.2.1. Imortele.....................................................................................423
12.3.2.2. Labadanum...............................................................................423
12.3.2.3. Salvia Sclarea...........................................................................424
12.3.2.4. Rezinoide..................................................................................424
12.3.3. Extracia cu grsimi..........................................................................427
12.3.3.1. Iasomia......................................................................................427
12.3.3.2. Tuberoza...................................................................................428
12.3.3.3. Macerarea.................................................................................429
12.3.4. Extracia cu gaze comprimate..........................................................430
CAP.13. ALI AGENI ACTIVI I ADITIVI ..................................................435
13.1. Generaliti................................................................................................435
13.2. Acidul rosmarinic......................................................................................436
13.3. -Hidroxi acizi (AHA)..............................................................................436
13.5. Substane active antiperspirante i deodorante.........................................441
13.5.1. Aspecte legislative.............................................................................443

13.5.2. Compui cu activitate deodorant.....................................................444

13.5.2.1. Farnesolul.................................................................................444
13.5.2.2.Triclosanul.................................................................................445
13.5.2.3.Triclocarbanul............................................................................445
13.5.2.4. Ricinoleatul de zinc..................................................................446
13.5.2.5. Bicarbonatul de sodium............................................................447
13.5.2.6. Chitosanul.................................................................................447
13.6. Materii prime provenite de la albine........................................................448
13.6.1. Propolis.............................................................................................448
13.6.2. Lptior de matc..............................................................................449
13.6.2.1. Proprieti fizico-chimice.........................................................450
13.6.2.3. Utilizri.....................................................................................450
13.6.3. Mierea...............................................................................................451
13.7. Ageni de hidratare....................................................................................451
13.8. Vitamine....................................................................................................452
13.8.1. Vitamina A........................................................................................452
13.8.2. Pantenol............................................................................................455
13.8.3.Vitamina C.........................................................................................457
13.8.3.1. Sarea de sodium a fosfatului de ascorbil .................................457
13.8.4.Vitamina E.........................................................................................458
13.8.5. Vitamina F.........................................................................................458
Bibliografie..............................................................................................................459