Pattern Making

Patternmaking,pattern
makingorpattern cuttingis the art of
designing patterns. It can also refer to
the paper or cardboardtemplatefrom
which the parts of a garment are traced
ontofabricbefore cutting out and
assembling (sometimes calledpaper
patterns). The drafting method depands
on measurments taken of the form

Basically two methods used to develop the

patterns for garment construction:
1.Constructing or drafting basic patterns.
2.Adjusting the commercial basic patterns.

All Types of Patterns

Commercial Pattern
Drafted Pattern
Draped Pattern
Muslin Proof - Test Muslin
Pattern
Production Pattern

Commercial Pattern
Commercial patterns are
produced from measurements
based on what industry calls
"Standard measurements". In
Australia we have our own set of
standard measurements, which
may vary from other countries.

 Drafted Pattern

It involves measurements derived from

sizing systems or accurate measurements
taken on a person, dress or body form.
Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so
on, and ease allowances are marked on
paper and construction lines are drawn to
complete the pattern. Drafting is used to
create basic, foundation or design
patterns.

 Draped Pattern

A pattern developed through the manipulation of muslin

or fabric on the model form or on a live model.
-In sample rooms when cutting sample or trial garments.
Muslin pattern is developed as a half pattern.

 Muslin Proof - Test Muslin Pattern(for size fit)

A muslin reproduction of the finished drafted pattern,

pinned or stitched together in the form of the garment.
-To test the fit, balance and proportion of original draft.
-To test fabric potential of drafted design concept.
-To adjust fit of new design or pattern on model form or
live model.
Test pattern may be made as right half or complete muslin
garment.

 Production Pattern

A granite-board copy of the tested and perfected final pattern including the specified seam allowances, perforations,
notches, grainlines , and pattern identifications.
-To cut duplicate garments.
-To develop a marker.

PROFESSIONAL PATTERN MAKING TOOLS

Snippers, used to snip threads. Using a snipper to cut
excess thread is much easier than using a scissor: there
is less action for your hand to do. always keep a pair
sitting with me at the machine. You can also use them
for marking notches on your fabric.

 A seam ripper, another tool you mustnt go

without. As everyone makes mistakes,
everyone should have a seam ripper.
Seam rippers are basically all the same,
but the size of the curved blade and the
handle may differ.

Tape measure, a must for fittings, pattern making, sewing,

and draping

 Tracing wheel, tracing paper, colored and white

chalk wheels, and water soluble marker. The
tracing wheel and paper are used in pattern
making for marking on muslin and paper. The
chalk and water soluble markers are for
temporarily marking fabric: for instance,
transferring pattern markings, cutting bias, and
marking hem lines.

 Alpha-numeric or dot paper, awl, notcher, clear tape,

stapler. Pattern making dot paper is infinitely easier: the
markings help keep you grainlines true and your angles
right. An awl is used to mark darts, pocket placement,
and the like on patterns and fabric. A notcher marks
various important points on patterns (dart intake, center
front and back, etc). Clear tape often comes in handy
when modifying patterns.

 Awl: A sharp pointed tool that pierces a 1/8 inch hole in patterns.
French curve: A rule that is ideal for shaping armholes and
necklines.
Hip curve rule: Shapes the hipline, hem, and lapels.
Notcher : A metal implement with a cutting blade that is used to
cut a 1/4 x 1/16 inch opening at the pattern's edge.
Tailor's square: Metal ruler with two arms forming a 90 angle
that measures, rules, and squares simultaneously.
Tracing wheels: Pointed and blunted wheels that transfer
pattern shapes to paper.
Vary form curve: A rule that blends and shapes armholes,
necklines, and other curves.

INDIVIDUAL FIGURE
The purpose of analyzing the figure is to determine if , and
where the figure deviates from the standard average . you
can personalize your pattern.
SHOULDER TYPE:-

Ideal:- Shoulder slope slightly from neck base.

Sloped:- shoulder slope radically downward from neck
base.
Square:- shoulder level with neck base
Muscular:- Fleshy shoulder around neck area.
Bony:- protuding shoulder bones and clavicle

BODY TYPE

Shape Description
Banana Shape:- The width of the waist is less than that of the bust and hips. It is
generally less than 9 inches. This causes the skeleton to grow in a masculine pattern.

Pear Shape:- The width of the hip is greater than that of the bust.it is deposited on the
upper body parts, including the abdomen.

Apple Shape :-Females with an apple shaped body have bust and shoulder
measurements greater than the measurement of the hips.

Hourglass Shape:- In the hourglass body shape, the width of the bust is almost
similar to that of the hips and has a narrow waist. This is the shape with the highest
symmetry. Majority of cultures consider the hourglass body shape to be the perfect
female body shape.

Standard Ideal Figure

Therefore, it is a difficult task to give
accurate measurements of an ideal
female body. According to the experts the
women with a 36 inch broad bust, 26 inch
broad waist and 36 inch broad hips looks
gorgeous in almost every outfit. Thus, it
may be 36"- 26"- 36" as the ideal body
measurement for women.

Every woman have a particular body type, shape,

measurement. Some are small and bulky, others are
medium in height, and some are tall and skinny.
Or we can generalize the female measurements as below:
Bust 32 to 36"
Waist 22 to 26"
Hips 33 to 36"
But beauty is not depends only on the statistics but more in
the features such as smooth and tone of skin, a straight
medium sized nose, lips, long neck, bright and glittering
eyes etc and etc

FABRIC TERMS:

Bias: A slanting or diagonal line cut or

sewn across the weave of the cloth.
Bowing and skewing: When filler
threads do not interlace with the
straight grains at 90, bowing and
skewing, or a one-sided combination,
occurs and the fabric is often sent to
industry in that condition.
Crosswise grain (weft): Yarns woven
across the fabric from selvage to
selvage. It is the filling yarn of woven
fabrics. Crosswise grain yields to
tension.
Grain: The direction in which the yarn
is woven or knitted (lengthwise grain,
or warp; crosswise grain, or weft).

 Lengthwise grain (warp): Yarns parallel with selvage

and at right angles to the crosswise grain. It is the most
stable grain.
Muslin: A plain-woven cotton made from bleached or
unbleached corded yarns in a variety of weights: Coarseweave:Used for draping and testing basic patterns; Lightweight:Used for softly draped garments; Heavyweight:Firmly woven, used for testing tailored garments,
jackets, and coats.
Pattern grainline: The pattern grainline is a line drawn on
each pattern piece (from end to end) to indicate how the
pattern should align with the lengthwise grain of the fabric.

 Selvage: The narrow, firmly woven, and

finished strip on both lengthwise grain edges
of the woven fabric.
True bias: The line that intersects with the
lengthwise and crosswise grains at a 45
angle. True bias has maximum give and
stretch, easily conforming to the figure's
contours. Flares, cowls, and drapes work
best when cut on true bias.

DART TERMS:
Bust point: A designated place on the bust
and pattern and referred to in flat
patternmaking as the pivotal point or apex.
Dart: A v-shaped cutout in a pattern to
control the fit of a garment.
Dart intake: The amount of excess (or
space) confined between dart legs. Its
purposes are to take up excess where it is
not needed, and to gradually release fabric
where it is needed to control the fit of the
garment.
Dart legs: The two lines that converge at a
predetermined point on the pattern.
Trueing: The blending and straightening of
pencil lines, crossmarks, and dot marks for
the purpose of establishing correct seam
lengthsfor example, trueing a side seam
having a side dart.

INDUSTRIALFORM

 BLENDING:-A process of smoothing

shaping, and rounding angular lines along
a seam for a smooth transition from one
point to the next and for blending marks
made on the pattern or muslin.

PATTERN INDUSTRY STANDARDS

In response to national standards and
consumersneeds, the pattern industry
established the measurement standard
committee, which devised its own standard set
of figure types and sizes. The example below is
a composite of the pattern industry figure types.

DEPARTMENT STORE STANDARDS

Some use national Bureau of standards
measurments . Others conduct surveys
and sampling of the population by sending
survey forms to their consumers ,
requesting their measurements.

Measuring the Form

Hold the tape measure firmly,

but not tightly.

For best results, take

measurements over
undergarments.

When measuring
circumferences, tape measure
should be parallel to the floor.

How to take your body measurements:

Bust: Measure the figure at
the fullest point of bust, do
not allow the tape to fall at
the back.
Waist: Take this
measurement round the
waist, make sure it is
comfortable. After taking the
waist measurement tie a
string firmly round the waist;
this allows the vertical
measurements to be taken
accordingly.

 Hips: Measure the widest part of

the hips, approximately 21 cm
from the waistline.
Back Width: Measure the back
width 1.5 cm down from the neck
bone at the center back. Measure
from armhole to armhole.
Chest: Measure the chest 7 cm
down from the neck point at the
center front (armhole to armhole).
Shoulder: Take this measurement
from the neck to the shoulder
bone.

 Neck Size: Measure the base

of the neck touching from
collar bone.
Dart: Standard measurement.
Top Arm: The arm must be
bent, measure the biceps.
Wrist: Take the wrist
measurement with slight
ease.
Nape to Wrist: Measure from
the neck bone at the center
back to the string tied around
the waist.

 Front Shoulder to Waist: Measure from the center of the front

shoulder over the bust point to waist.
Armhole Depth: Standard measurement.
Skirt Length: Measure the skirt length from the string at the waist
down to the required hem length. Measure from the waist to floor at
the back and front to check the balance of the figure is even.
Waist to Hip: Standard measurement.
Waist to Floor: Measure from waist to floor at the center back.
Body Rise: The subject should sit on a hard chair. Take the
measurement at the side from the waist to the chair.
Sleeve Length: Place the hand on hip so that the arm is bent.
Measure from the shoulder bone over the elbow to the wrist bone
above the little finger.
Standard pattern-sizing chart for women (in cm):

LANDMARK TERMS
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)

Center front neck

Center back neck
Center front waist
Center back waist
Bust points
Center front bust level(between bust points)
Side front (Princess)
Side back (princess)

9)Mid-armhole front at level with plate

screw
10)Mid armhole back-at level with plate
screw
11)shoulder tip
12)Armhole plate
13)Plate screw

Symbol Key
CF= center front
CB= center back
BP= bust point
SS= side seam
SW= side waist
HBL= horizontal balance line
SH-TIP= shoulder tip

Circumference Measurements
Bust- Across bust points and back.
Waist- Around waist.
Hip- Measure widest area with tape
parallel with floor.

Horizontal Measurements
Across shoulder-shoulder tip to center
front neck
Dart placement- center front to side
front(princess line).
Abdomen arc- center front to side seam,
starting 3 down from waist.
Hip depth- center front to HBL line.
Same as back.

Vertical Measurements
Front and Back
Center length- neck to waist(over bust
bridge).
Full length- waist to shoulder at neck,parallel
with center lines.
Bust depth- shoulder tip to bust point.

 Seam Allowance:
Basic Seams: Example, side seams, style
seams ... 1.5 or 2 cm.
Enclosed Seams: Example, collars, facings,
cuffs ... 0.5 cm.
Hem: Depth depends on shape or finish ... 1 to 5
cm.
Fabrics which fray easily will require wider
turnings especially around facings and cuffs.
No seam allowance is required on fold.

 Seam allowance can be marked by lines around the pattern or

notches at the end of the seam. For an individual garment, it is
not necessary to add seam allowances to the pattern, they can
be chalked on the fabric. If the pattern has no seam allowance,
mark it clearly on the pattern.
Construction Line: These includes darts, button holes, pocket
facing, tucks, pleat lines, decorative stitch lines. These lines are
marked on the pattern or shown by punch holes.
Grain Lines: To achieve the effect you require, you must
understand the principle of placing a pattern on the correct
grain of the fabric. Mark the grain lines on the working pattern
with an arrow. Mark into sections, once in pieces it can be
difficult to find the correct grain on complicated pattern sections.

Pattern Marking

Pattern Layout
The pattern layout below shows
you how to place the pattern
pieces on the fabric. Make sure
that the grain line marked on the
pattern pieces runs parallel to the
selvedges of the fabric.
Linen:
1front, on a fold 1x
2back 2x
3sleeve front 2x
4sleeve back 2x
5front facing, on a fold 1x
6back facing, on a fold 1x
7collar, on a fold 2x
8front skirt panel, on a fold 1x
9back skirt panel 2x - See more at:

First Method to Place a Skirt on Fabric

I always cut the front panel on the fold

so I eliminated the centre front seam.
This is a layout for a basic circle skirt
with waist band and no pockets.

Skirt Layout
This is another option
where you can utilize the
full width of the fabric, I
used a similar layout when I
made my circle petticoat. I
cut the 2 pieces on the fold,
so there were only 2 side
seams. I was able to get a
good length out of fabric
only 90cm (35 inches) wide.
With this option you can
make a 2, 4 or 8 piece skirt.

Decorative Stitches

TYPES OF COLLARS
A collar is a decorative and functional of a
garment.
Collars are very important on any garment
and it frames your neck as well as the face.
Collar has 3 main types: there are flat,
rolled and stand collars.

Collar Parts

Collar
Piece sewn onto a garment that finishes the neck.
stand
Top edge of the break line, where the collar turns.
lapel
Part of a garment turned down over the chest,
extending the collar.
break line
Line where the collar folds.
roll
Inside of the collar, behind the neck.
leading edge
Folded part of the fabric that runs along the collar.
notch
Angle formed where the collar and the lapel meet.
collar point
Somewhat pointed tip of the collar.
fall
Part of the collar that folds back over the garment
from the break line.

Use Collars In Female Wear

jabot
Decoration made up of one or two
pieces of fine soft pleated fabric; it is
attached at the base of the neck and
spreads out over the chest.
bow collar
Collar made of a long strip of soft
fabric sewn onto a round neck; it can
be tied in front in various ways..
dog ear collar
Turned-down collar characterized by
long, fairly wide points.
tailored collar
Collar whose fold covers the back of
the neck; its lapels form a V where
they cross on the chest.

cowl neck
Turtleneck that is large enough to be
draped over the head, making a kind of
hood that frames the face.
polo collar
Turned-down pointed collar fastened with a
buttoned placket, which ends at mid-chest.
stand-up collar
Collar made of a narrow strip of fabric that
sticks up from a round neck; its edges
meet in front but do not fasten.
bertha collar
Collar made of a strip of fabric of variable
width and attached to the edge of a
neckline or round neck.
collaret
Piece of delicate, pleated or gathered
fabric that adorns the neck of a dress.

Different Collar Styles For Women

Shirt Collars:
This is a type of women
and men collar that can
have one or two pieces.
A one piece collar folds
down over the stand. And
a two pieces collar are
the ones the collar stand
are cut separately and
are then joined together
to form a collar stand.

Mandarin Collars Or Chinese Collars

Mandarin collars are
types of stand collars.
The collar stands upright
around the neck.
Mandarin collar is also
known as Nehru , military
and Chinese collar is a
close-fitting, stand-up
collar. It parts in front and
varies in width from 1
to 2inches on the
average.

Shawl Collars:
A shawl collar is a
combination of the lapel and
the top of the collar that gives
it that rolled image. It is a type
of rolled collar that has a
stand and a deep v-neck. This
type of collar neckline can be
found on women blouses or
jackets. shawl collar
Wide turned-down collar with
long rounded lapels.

Rolled Collars:
Rolled collars are
collars that stand
upright at the edge of
the neck and the rest
of the collar folds
downwards.

Stand Collars:
A stand collar looks
the same as
mandarin collar. The
collar band that is
used to make it stand
can be narrow or
wider to make the
collar folds back to
itself when someone
wears it.

Peter Pan collar

A Peter Pan collar is a specific
type of shirt collar, usually found
on women's and girl's clothing.
The shape and name of
the Peter Pan collar appear to
have originated in the mid-20th
century. The design became very
popular for school uniforms,
Flat Peter Pan Collar: this collar
has rounded ends at front and
back, with opening at the back.
Rolled Peter Pan Collar: it is a
turned down collar with a rolled
effect at the necklines.

SAILOR COLLAR
sailor collar
Collar that is square in back and
has long lapels extending over the
chest; it is fastened to a V-neck
and is a traditionally a broad collar
without a stand, Design features a
sailor collar that is squared in
back and ending at a v-neck line
in front. The sailor was inspired by
the sailor uniform and based on
instructions of the nonconvertible
collar . The tie is detachable.

Cape Collar

A collar
fashioned like
a Cape and
hanging over
the shoulders.

Turtleneck collar
A high close-fitting turnover
collar. The collar of the most
common style of turtleneck is
close fitting, and long enough
that it is usually folded down over
itself, The Cowl neck is similar to
a turtleneck in that it has a long,
extending collar. High-necked
collar that is folded over.

Notch Collar
A notch collar is a type of jacket or shirt
front that typically tops a row of buttons
in the garment's center. The notch detail
is actually in the lapels that attach to
each side of the collar portion that fits
around the neck. The V-shaped notch
tends to give clothing a formal look that
has become popular for suits and office
wear. rounded notch cut from the lapels
usually look much less formal than
garments finished with a V-shaped lapel
notch style.

Child Bodice Block:

Body
Measurements :
Chest : 22 in.
Waist : 21.5 in.
Cross Back : 9 in.
Waist Length : 9 in.
Finished Dress
Length: 20 in.

 Draw a line segment AB of 12" (1/2

of chest + 1).
Draw another line segment BC of 9"
(waist length).
Join AD and DC. Mark the mid point
of AD as E.
Mark the midpoint of AE as F.
Mark the midpoint of AF as G.
Mark a point H on AB so that AH =
2.2" and point O on AD so that AO =
1/2". Join OH by drawing a curve.
Mark a point I on GG' so that GI is
4.5" (1/2 of cross back).
Join HI and extend it to J so that IJ =
1/2".

Drop a perpendicular from I on EE'.

Mark the midpoint of EE' as K. Join JK by drawing a curve.
Drop a perpendicular from K on DC at L.
Mark points M and M' on either side of L (1/2"). Join KM and
KM'.
Mark a point H' on AB so that H'B = 2.2" and N on BC so that
BN = 2.5".
Join HN by drawing a curve.
Join H'I and mark a point J' on H'I so that H'J' = HI.
Drop a perpendicular from J' on EE' meeting FF' at P. RP =
1/2".
Draw a curve joining points J', R, and K.

Child Sleeve:
Body Measurements : Sleeve

Length : 5 in.
Chest : 22 in.
Construction Line:

 Draw a line segment AD of 5" (Sleeve Length).

Draw a line segment AB of 5" (1/4 of Chest -1/2").
Draw BC || AD and DC ||AB. Mark a point E on BC so that BE = 2.4"
(1/9 of chest). Join AE.
Divide AE into four equal parts namely AH, HO, OP, and PE.
Mark a point H' above H so that HH' = 1/4". Similarly, mark a point O'
above o so that OO' = 1/2". Mark a point P' below P so that PP" =
1/4". Remember! the points taken should be perpendicular to AE.
Draw a curve joining A, O', and E. Draw another curve joining A, H',
O, P', and E.
Mark a point F on DC so that FC = 1". Join EF.
Mark a point G on EF so that GF = 1/4". Join DG by drawing a curve.

Drafting the Basic Bodice Block

The Basic Bodice Block- the only pattern youll
ever need to make any kind of garment for the
upper body- blouses, tanks, sweaters, coats,
vests. Drafting the Basic Bodice Block requires a
knowledge of basic high-school geometry, but
once youve finished.

This first image shows a flat piece of fabric

wrapped round the body to create a cylinder.

By creating cones of fabric, or darts, above

the bust the fabric shapes to the body.
These are called the shoulder darts.

The same is done for the waist. These darts

are then turned inside and sewn. The flat
version above is the pattern for the two-dart
bodice. From this basic pattern or block you
create different types of top.

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