IarrivedinPortSudanmidMarch1980.

Idbeensent
overbyaUKcompanytoworkasanengineeronthesea
portscooperationprojectthatwastakingplaceatthetime.I
wasalsoemployedasadiveronaparttimebasisduringthis
period,workingintheRedSea.
WhileIwasthere,Ididafeasibilitystudyofthe
transportationpossibilitiesintheSudanandthelucrative
businesstherewastobehad.Inlate1981,Idecidedto
setupmyowntransportoperation,runningvariouskinds
ofcommoditiesalloverthecountryfrommybaseinPort
Sudan.
Tostarttheoperation,Ipurchasedalandtrain,likethetype
youseeontheroadsofAustralia,amonsterofavehiclethat
wouldpullnearlyahundredtons.Ialsopurchasedtrailers
andtankers,afewsmalltrucksfortheoperation,andsub
contractedmanyofthelocaltruckstohelpmewiththe
overloadofworkIhadinfrontofme.
Ideliveredcommoditiesofsugar,flour,tallowfat,and
diesel.Anothercommodityhauledwithmyfleetoftrucks
wascountlesscontainersofbeerthatweredeliveredfrom
PortSudantoOmdurmaninKhartoum,thecapitalofSudan,
forawealthySyriannamedHafizZakat.
Hafizwasaveryrichandcleverbusinessman.Hewas
alsoaverybigplayerinthealcoholbusiness,probablythe
biggestinthecountry.HesuppliedwealthyArabs,mostly
Muslimsinthecity,withallkindsofalcohol,especiallybeer
andspirits.
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Hehadamonopolyonbeerandmovedverylargequantities
ofit.
Onehadtowonderwhereitwasallgoing,andwho
wasconsumingit,giventhatwelivedinamostlyMuslim
countrywhereninetysevenpercentofthepeopleclaimed
tobeadheringtoIslam.AsfarasIwasaware,alcoholwas
atouchysubjectwithMuslims,yetitwassoldfreelyonthe
openmarket.
Hafizwasmakingafortune.Hewasoneoftherichestmen
inthecity.Butonewouldntthinksoiftheyweretomeet
himinhisoldtweedslacks,holeysweatshirt,andadeer
stalkerhatthatmatchedhistrousers,whichwereprobably
olderthanhewas.
Hesmeltterrible.Anyonewhogotwithinthreefeetofhim
movedawayratherquickly.WhenIaskedhimtopaymethe
cashheowedme,hewouldstuffitinaplasticbagandhand
ittomewithanoutstretchedarm.Ineversawhimcountit.I
reckonedheknewhowmuchmoneyhewasgivingmejust

bytheweightofthebag.
Ialwaysstoodasfarupwindfromhisaspossible,reaching
myarmtowardshistotakethebagandthenclimbintomy
trucktocountthemoney.IcouldntsitwithhimorIwould
endupkeelingoverfromtheodour.Hewassmellytosay
theleast.
Tounderstandhowlucrativetheareawas,oneonlyhasto
imagineacityelevenhundredandeightysevenkilometres
fromthenearestportwhereallthegoodstosupplythewhole
countrycamein.Itwasacityinthemiddleofnowhere,
needingallkindsofcommodities.Likeyesterdaymorning.
Thedemandhadbeenespeciallyhighforalcohol.Hafiz
couldchargewhateverhewantedwhenhesoldhisproduct.
Tradersandthepublicalikewouldpay.Theyhadmoney,and
plentyofit.
Hehadhundreds,maybethousands,ofrichSudanese
businessmenonhisbooks,mainlytradersforthedelivery
ofhisproducts.TheArabMuslims,andalsothesouthern
Christianminority,drankalcoholliketheydidwaterin
Khartoum.
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Hafizsuppliedmostoftheshops,sellingboozeinthe
wholecitytosmalloutlets,ofwhichthereweremany.He
toldmehehadastringofsmallshopshecontrolledhimself
withhisbunchofheavies.Hehadtohaveheavieshelping
himoutwherealcoholwasinvolved.Itwasadangerous
gametobein.
Hisstaffdeliveredtheboozetothesesmallshopsandthe
ownerstookthegoodsonsaleorreturn.Althoughnothing
wouldeverbereturned,itwasboozeafterall.
Hewasastightasaguycouldeverbe.Hecouldskina
grapeinhispocketifneedbe.Iwonderedattimesifhehad
ancestorsfromYorkshire,butno,hecouldnthave.Hewasa
descendantfromthedenofthelioninSyria.
ForsomereasonorotherIthoughthewasaCopticChristian
onourfirstmeetinghehadthelookofone,butIlaterfound
outhewasaMuslim.Notareligiousone,butarichone.He
hadsurelyneverread,oratleastnotunderstood,Sura81in
theholyQuran.NeitherhadmostoftherichWahhabisin
SaudiArabiaoranyotherrulersofsheikhdomsintheMiddle
East.
DoasWarrenBuffetandBillGatesdo,sharethywealth.
Hecountedeverycaseandeverysingletinofbeerinevery
containerIdeliveredtohisstores.Therewerehundredsof
them.Itwouldtakethemiserhourstodoit,butthatdidnt
stophim.Hewouldcounttheloteverytime.Onehadtotake

hishatofftohim.Hewasahardworker,workingverylong
hours.Ilikedhimbecauseofthat.
Thereweretwothousandtwohundredandfortycasesof
beerinatwentyfootcontainer.Thatwasfiftythreethousand
sevenhundredandsixtytins.Iftherewasonemissing,Ihad
topayforit.
Whenunloadingthecontainers,Ihadtoopentheback
doorwithcaution.Aftertravellingsevenhundredmilesover
aroadthatwashalfasphaltandhalfsand,theloadwasshook
upalittle.TheroadsfromPortSudantoKhartoumwerefull
ofpotholes.Ifacasehitthefloorandacanburst,Ihadto
payforthedamage.Onemiserlytinofbeer,hewouldcharge
mefor.
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Ihadaskedhimmanytimesforafreecaseofbeer.I
thoughtIcouldpossiblysqueezeoneoutofthetightgit,but
Ialwaysgotthesameanswer.Youapay,youatake,hed
tellmeinhisfunnySyrianaccent.GrinninglikeaCheshire
cat,hedadd,Younotapay,younotatake.Hesoundeda
littlelikeanItalianspeakingwithanArabaccent.
EvenatChristmastime,hewouldntgivepresentsto
anyone,notevenacaseofbeer,fromthemillionorsohe
musthavehadstockedineachoneofhisstores,orgodowns
astheyareknow.
Ioftenwonderedifheboughthiskidsanything.
Hewassmart.Heevenboughttheemptyaluminiumbeer
cansbackfromthesmallshopsthatwerewholesalingand
retailingthemallovertownonhisbehalf.Hehadastore
nextdoorwheretruckswouldunloadthecansdaily,andhe
soldthemtoafoundryinthecityaftercrushingtheminto
blocksofaluminium.
Mostofthebeercameintinsbecauseoftheroughroads
fromtheporttoKhartoum.Ifthebeercameinbottles,he
wouldhavealotofbreakages,orratherthedeliveryguy
wouldbecauseitwouldbehimwhopaid,notSirHafiz.
Ithinkthespiritsheimported:thewhiskies,brandies,
rums,andotherstoonumeroustomention,werepackedwell
intheirboxesbecausehenevercomplainedaboutlosing
any.Ifhedid,hewouldmakethedriverorthecompanypay
anyway.NoonegotoneoveronHafizZakat
Onesummermorning,Ilefttheport,headingtoKhartoum.
Iwasdrivingthemonsterlandtrainwithfourcontainersof
beerloadedontheback,twofortyfoottrailersfordeliveryto
him.Ialsohadatankerofdieselloadedattherearofthetwo
trailerstokeepmefuelledup.Thelandtraindrankalotof
juice.Onagoodday,Icouldgetfivemilespergallon.Ihad

thethreetrailershookedupbehindmeanddrovethrough
policecheckpointsallthewayviaGedarefthroughFao
withoutahitch.
IdroveontoWadMedani,ontheoutskirtsofKhartoum,
whereIwasstoppedbythepoliceforaroutinesearch.They
saiditwasroutine.Ithoughtitwasoddsincethiswasthe
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firsttimeIhadbeenstoppedinalltheyearsIhadbeengoing
throughthere.
Acopwithawhitefacecoveredindustfromheadtotoe,
cameoutofasmallhut.Thehutwasbuiltupoutofold
corrugatedsheetsandcardboardonthesideoftheroad.It
musthavebeenreallyhotintherewithnofanbecausethe
temperaturewasupinthefifties.
Heheldupared,lollipopshapedwoodenstickwithStop
writteninthemiddleoverawhitepaintedbackground.A
pityitwasntwritteninArabic,Iwouldhavehadagood
excusetokeepmoving.
Ipulledthetruckovertothesideoftheroadnearthehut
andlefttheenginerunningtokeepthecabcool.Ihadnice
airconinthecab.
Iclimbeddown.Goodmorning,Isaidtothecopin
ArabicasIapproachedhim.
Thelocalcopsloveditwhenyouspokeyourbitoflocal
dialecttothem.Thepolitegestureputtheminagoodmood
rightaway.Theylikeditwhenyouwerepolitesowhynotdo
it?Itdoesntcostanything,anditcouldhelp.
Whatistheproblem,sir?Iaskedthem.
Twomorecopscameover.Theylookedliketheyhadjust
beeninagunfightattheO.K.Corral.Theirgreenuniforms
werecoveredindust,andtheylookedandtiredwornout.
Oneofthemwasstillsmiling.Heworeacowboyhatwith
corkshangingdownfromtherimonstrings.Ithadtocome
fromAustralia.
Thebothofthemlookedtiredandweary,asiftheyhadnt
slept.Truckspassedthembyconstantly.Becausetheroad
wasnottarmacadamitwasjustasandtrackandcloudsof
dustspurtedupwhenthetruckssetoffafterbeingstopped
forspotchecks.Thebackwheelschurningcoveringevery
bitofthecopsandtheirhutindust.
TheyaskedmewhatcargoIhadloadedonthetruck.
Iwouldneversaybeer,eventhoughitwaslegal.Itwasstill
alwaysatouchysubjecttomentionanykindofalcoholina
Muslimcountry.Evenifhalftheircolleaguesweredrinking,
themajorityofthepeoplewereMuslims,andyouhadto
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showrespect.
Tellingthecopsthefourcontainerswerefullofbeerwould
haverungthechurchbells,orthenoisefromtheImamatthe
Mosque.Idontknowwhy,buttoldthemIhadchickensin
thecontainers.Itwasthefirstthingthatcameintomyhead.

Dajaaj
,oneofthecopsannouncedinArabic.Hiseyes
wentbright,andhiseyebrowswenthigher.Ifitschickens
youhavetheywillbehotinthere.
Ihadtocomeupwithsomethingveryquickly,soItold
themtherewerecoolboxesinthecontainersandlotsofice
tokeeptheirbodieschilled.Ihadtomovefasttogetthem
unloadedinKhartoum.
TherewerenomanifestsinSudan.Youdidntneedthem
thecopsdidntevenknowtheyexisted.Theyhadneverseen
anypaperworkinthepastsotherecouldbeanythinginthe
containers.Onecouldonlytellwhatwasinthembyopening
themup,andthatwasthelastthingIwanted.
Theproblemforthecopswasthatiftheywantedtoopen
oneuptheylegallycouldnt.Thecontainershadsealson
themthatcustomsinPortSudanputoneverycontainer.By
law,theycouldonlybeopenedbythecustomsinKhartoum
onarrivalatthedepot.
Itwasalsounlikelytheywouldopenthedoorsofthe
containers.Ingeneral,theyweretoolazy,
Kaslan
,tousethe
Arabicterm.Theywerealways
taban
,tired.Notonceintwo
yearshadtheyeverrequestedmetoopenacontainer.There
wasalwaysachancethattodaywouldbethefirsttime,butI
didntexpectthattohappen.
Wehadmetmanytimes,andtheyknewmewell.Iwasthe
onlyforeignerintheSudantheyeversawdrivingatruck.
Theythoughtithilarious,andeveryweektheylaughedand
scratchedtheirheadsasIdroveby.
TheyguessedIwasapoorforeigneronthesamesalaryas
thelocals,Ireckoned.IthoughtIcouldbluffmywayoutif
hetriedtoopenthedoorstocheck.Ihadmywayswiththese
guys.AfewtimesIhadstoppedandhadsomefoodwith
themandgiventhemcigarettes.Icouldtalktothemandgive
themsomethingtheyliked.
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IfhedidinsistIopenupthecontainersandsawno
chickens,Iwouldlookblankandsaytheyhadtoldmein
PortSudanthattheywereloadingchickens.Unfortunately
IhadbeeneatingwhentheyloadedthemsoIdidntseeit
myself.Ididnthaveanythingillegalonthereanywayso
therewasnoproblem.
ThecopcamecloseupandsaidtomeinArabic,Please

openthebackdoor.Wewanttocheckthechickens.He
didntspeakmuchEnglish.
Iwascaughtout.Istartedtolaugh.
Whyareyoulaughing,
ajanbi
?Whiteman,whatis
funny?
Iwasstumpedforwords.Mymindwasracingthenwent
blank.Ihadtothinkofsomethingquicktoputthemoff
openingthosedoors.
IfIopenthecontainerdoorsandchickensflyoutwewill
losemany.Maybehundred,maybeathousand,andyouhave
topayforthem.Plustheyhavesealsonthecontainersthat
canonlybeopenedbythecustomspeopleinKhartoum,so
betteryouleavethesealson.
IwasntcarryingillegalcargoasfarasIwasaware,but
theywereoftheMuslimfaith.Iwassuretheywouldnttake
tookindlytoseeingmewithfourcontainersofbeer.Anodd
bottleofJW,yes,butnearlyninethousandtinsofbeer?I
didntknowwhattheyddoandIdidntwanttofindout.
Whilehedidntseemtocareaboutthechickensescaping,
hestoppedinhistracksafterImentionedIhadalargeboxof
cigarettesinthecab.ItoldthemIhadbroughttheboxeswith
mefromtheportforthem.
Theofficersmiledfromeartoear.Thedustonhisface
showedcracksonhischeeksthatmadehisfacelookbroken.
Iclimbedbackintothecab,wentintotheglove
compartment,andpulledoutthesleeveofMarlboroIhadin
thereforthesespecialoccasions.Iclimbeddownandgave
himafullsleeve,whichIalwayscarriedjustincasethecops
stoppedmeontheroad.MarlborofagsorabottleofJohnnie
WalkerRedworkedwondersontheroad.Theyweregood
forgreasingpalms,thepalmsofthelaw.
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Iclimbedbackintomycab,andthecopclimbedupto
speaktomethroughthesidewindow.Hewasstillsmiling.
Inowhadhimeatingfromthepalmofmyhand.Itwas
amazingwhataboxoffagscoulddointhesesituations.
Itwasverycoolinthecab.Ihadlefttheenginerunningand
theACwasstillon.Helikedthebreezethatblewthroughthe
windowfromtheACintohisface,disturbingthedustthat
wasstucktoit.
SpeakinginArabic,andafewshortwordsinbroken
English,hesaid,Whiteman,listentomecarefullyIam
veryserious.Veryserious.TodaySharialawwasannounced
byourpresident.DoyouknowwhatSharialawis?
No,Isaid.
IhadheardaboutitfromanoldmaninKhartoum,Hadji,

butIwasnotclearonwhatitmeant.
ThenhesaidinbrokenEnglish,Chickensinthetruck
okaybutnowhiskeyorbeer.Thisproductnowfinished,itis
notallowedanymorefromtoday.
Iassumedhehadguessedwhatwasinthecontainers
already.Ifso,Iwasaluckyman.Forthetimebeingthat
was.Istillhadothercheckpointstopass,twoofthemtobe
preciseKeshmalGerbaandthecustomsatHafizsstore.
Oh,Isaid.Really?Andwhyshoulditconcernme?Iam
onlymakingadelivery.
Wedontknow,sir.WejusthearonlocalradioWad
Medanitodayinmorningtime.Sometimeswegetradioone
day.Sometimeshavetowaitaweekforsignal,butKamal,
myfriendovertherewithcurlyhairIlookedwherehe
wasnodding,buttheyallhadcurlyhair.Hehearsitone
houragohetellsme.Hewastryingveryhardwithhis
Englishanddoingfine.
Veryinteresting,Isaid.Soyoudontwantthis,doyou?
ItisnogoodtomenowifIcannotlegallydrinkit.
IheldupabottleofJohnnieWalkerRedIhadinthe
cab.HiseyeslituplikeBlackpoolonthefirstnightofthe
Illuminations.Thesmilecamebackonhisface,crackingthe
dustoncemore.
Yes,yougivemeplease,
MafiMushkila
.Noproblem.
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KamalandIwillhideitanddrinkitinnighttimewithfriend
athouse.Wealwaysdrinkwithfriendathouseeverytime.
Pleaseputinbagintruckandhandthroughwindow.Keep
bottlelowverylow,notletotherdriversseeit.Pleasenottell
anyoneyoupassbottletomeorKamal.Wefriendswithyou.
Youcangonow.Goodbye.
IpassedhimthebottleofJohnnieWalkerRed.Hesmiled
atme,showinghispureblackandwhiteteeththatlooked
likeadominosetandsaidtakecare.
IknewIhadtwomorecheckpointstogothroughbefore
Imadethedelivery.Iaskedhimifhehadanyfriendsatthe
KeshmalGerbacrossingafewhoursuptheroad.
Why?heasked.
Iwouldliketodrivethroughwithoutbeingstopped
becausethechickensneedtobedeliveredveryquicklyor
theymaydie.Iftheydie,Iwillthenhaveproblemswiththe
ownerandhavetopay.
Icouldpaysomethingifitwaspossibleformetokeep
moving,greaseanotherpalm.
Hereplied,Wecannot,sir.WehaveaproblemnowSharia
lawhere.Maybewecalltherebythetelephoneifwecanget

aline.ButthelinealwaysnotworkingsoIthinkimpossible,
butifwecouldgetthroughandsomeonewaslisteningon
theotherendoftheline,likeShariapolice,wewillbeputin
sijin
prison.
Whoarethey?Iaskedhim.
Theyaresecretpolice,likeRussiahadbeforetheCold
War.Ithinkyouknowaboutthem.
KGB?
Yeslikethat.
Areyousure?
Yes.
Ihittheacceleratorpedal.
Thatwasaluckybreak.Ihadnearlyninethousandtinsof
beeronthistruck.Ifhehadopenedthedoorandrefusedto
takeabribe,Iwouldstillbeinprisontothisday.Iheaded
towardsKhartoum.Itwasashortdriveofaroundthreehours
tothenextpolicestopatKeshmalGerba.Ihaddoneitina
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fewhoursbefore,butwiththeweightofthefourcontainers
Icouldnttravelsofast.
AsIapproachedKeshmalGerbaontheoutskirtsofthe
city,Icouldseealineoftrucksinthedistance.Therewere
old,rustyoilbarrelslinedacrosstheroad,blockingthetrucks
frommovingforward.
Iwantedtogoback,butIcouldntbecauseIwaspulling
threetrailers,twofortyfootersandonetwenty.
Itwasverydifficulttoturnaroundinashortdistancewith
twotrailers.Threewasoutofthequestion.Icouldntreverse
thetrucksmorethanonehundredandtwentyfootlength
either.Ihadtofacethemusiconcemore.
IcouldmaybeblagmywaythroughagainlikeIdidat
thelastpolicestop.Idhavetoseeiftheseguyshadbeen
listeningtoradioKeshmalGerba.Maybetheyhadntheard
theannouncementthatSharialawhadbeenimplemented.I
hopedandprayedtheycouldntgetasignaleither.
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C
hapter
2
Inthedistance,Icouldseethreecopsorsoldiers.Iwasnt
surewhich.Theyweredressedingreenandagaincovered
indust.TheyheldtheirfingersonthetriggersofAK47s,
specialgratisfromtheRussiansnodoubt.TheRussians
suppliedthecountrywithmostoftheirweaponry.
Idroveslowlytowardsthem.Idroppedthesidewindow
andsmiledatthemwhilstcruisingby,hopingtheywouldnt
stopme.Itusuallyworked.Theydneverstoppedmebefore.

Oneofthecopscamealongsidethetruck.Heraisedhis
gunupwithhisrighthandwhilstholdinghisleftpalmopen,
askingmetostop,albeitinafriendlygesture.Hewassmiling.
Heaskedmetogetoutofthetruckandcomeintotheir
headquarters.Itwasacorrugatedcardboardandtinoffice
verysimilartotheonethecopshadbackinMedaniwhereI
hadbeenstoppedthreehoursearlier.Oneofthecopsthere,
Ahmed,Iknewverywell.
Theofficewasaboutthirtymetersorsofromtheroadside.
Theywereobviouslyfedupofgettingcoatedindustlike
theguysdowntheroadsotheyhadmovedtheofficeback
somewhatfromthedustytracks.
Iknewtheroadcopsverywell,mostonafirstnamebasis.
Ihadbeenthroughtheremorethanahundredtimes,andate
anddrankwiththemontheoddoccasionIddecidedtostop
forachat.Ialwaysgavethemsomething,abottleofspirits
orsomefags.SomeoftheinformationIgotfromthemwas
veryvaluable.

Assalamualaikum
.Whatistheproblem,Ahmed?I
asked.Whatishappeningheretoday,myfriend?
IknewAhmedverywell.Wetrulywerefriends.Ihadmet
himinKordofanayearorsobefore.Idgonetohishouse
tomeethisfamily,andeatsomelocaldishes.Itwasthefirst
timeIhadeaten,orIshouldsaytriedtoeat,thecamelliver.
Itwasterrible,andthesaucethatcamewithitwouldmake
redbirdchillieslooktame.Theyatecameloffalwithittoo,
horrendous.
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Ihadntbeenabletohandleit,andhadsettledonagluey
greensubstanceofriceandvegetablescalled
mulokiah
.It
lookedhorrible,likesomethingthatwouldcomeoutofyour
nose,butitisverynicewithwarm,freshlymadeSudanese
flatbread.
AhmedspokegoodEnglish.Idhadmanyconversations
withhiminthepastatthetruckstop.Sometimeswewould
talkforhours.Hewasabrightintellectual.
Thecopsusuallywereaftersomethingattheendofthe
dayafewcigarettesoratippleofthespirit,whiskey
preferably.TheyknewIwasthemantogiveittothem.When
youtookcareofthem,theywerealwaysaccommodatingand
younevergothassled,butitseemedbythelookofthings,we
wereheadingforachange.
Goodday,mygoodfriend.
Assalamualaikum
.Howare
you?

WaalaikumSalam
.
Alhamdulillah
thankstogodIam
good,Ahmed.Andyou?

Howisthefamily?HowisSamiraandNabeel?Itrustthey
arewell.Youmustbemissingthem,workingouthereinthe
desertwiththe
Khamsin
stormsswirlingaroundyoudaily.
ItwasalwayswindyontheoutskirtsofKhartoum.The
windcameinthickandheavy,carryinglotsofsandwithit.It
hurtwhenithityourhandsandface.Itwasmorecomfortable
towearlongsleevedshirtsandpantsdespitetheheat.
AhmedhadalovelywifeandafinesonwhoIknewvery
well.Theywereexceptionallyhospitabletomeduringmy
visittotheirhome.
ButnowIhadtosweetenhimupevenmore.Iwaspresently
alittleconcerned,wellmorethanalittle.ThepredicamentI
wasfacingdidnotlookgoodafterwhatthecophadtold
meinWadMedaniregardingthenewlawthathadbeen
introducedandimplementedwithoutwarning.

Alhamdulillah
,hesaidthenskippedstraighttobusiness.
Todayourpresident,JaafarNimeiri,hasannouncedonlocal
radionewschannelsandtelevisionthatSharialawhasbeen
officiallyintroducedintheSudanasofmidnightlastnight.
Ihadseenradios,butIdonlyseentelevisioninSudan
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duringmyrarestaysatfivestarhotels.Ialreadyknewabout
thenewlaw,butdidntgivehimanyinclinationthatIdid.I
knewthecircumstancesIwasfacingiftheyopenedthedoors
ofthecontainersIwashauling.Itwouldntlookgoodforme.
AfterIdleftthecopsatWadMedani,Ihadremembered
whatthetaxidriver,theoldHadji,hadtoldmeaboutSharia
lawonthewaytothehotelwhenIhadfirstarrivedin
Khartoum.TherewasabigchangecomingtotheDemocratic
RepublicoftheSudan.
Somedemocracy,hehadtoldme.Theynowhadtocheck
allcargocomingintoKhartoum.Everysingletankeroffuel
theyhadcomethroughwouldbetestedwithadippingstick.
OfcourseIneverthoughtaboutthat.Thecontraband
moversmightstartmovingbeerandwhiskyintankers.That
wouldbefinanciallyviable.IdhavetomentionittoHafiz.
Hewasupforanythingfinanciallyviabletohim.
Evensugarwehavetocheck,Ahmedsaid.Wehave
informationtherearesugarmerchantscheatingthepeople,
andwehavetostopit.
Whatdoyoumean,Ahmed?Merchantscheatingpeople
withsugarIdontunderstand.Issugarcontrabandnow?
No,sugarisnotillegalandneverwillbe.Whatthe
scavengermerchantshavedoneinPortSudanisveryillegal.
Thisisoneofthereasons,apartfromonehundredmore,that
mypresidenthasannouncedSharialawwillbeimplemented

today.
WhereyouarecomingfromAhmed?Whatistheproblem
withsugar?
SomeofthemerchantsinPortSudanhavebeenimporting
shiploadsofsugarintoourcountry.Theproblemistheyare
stockpilingitintheirgodowns.Theyarenotsellingitinthe
localmarketorsendingittoKhartoum.
Whyaretheynotsendingitout?Thatdoesnotsound
logical.
Itisknownashoarding,andtheyhavealsobought
upthemajorityofthesugarinthelocalmarkettoaddto
theirhoardings.AllthesugarproducedbyKenanaSugar
Corporation,inthesouthofthecountry,isexported.Weonly
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getsuppliesofimportedgoods.
TheSudanesepeople,asyouprobablyknow,havea
minimumofthreespoonfulsofsugarinonesmallglassof
tea.MysisterinlawGiselleputsfourtofivespoonsofsugar
ineveryglassshedrinks.TheSudaneseonlydrinkglasses
oftea,notcupslikeyouforeignersdo.Therearemorethan
fiftymillionofus,andthatsalotofsugarconsumeddaily.
Imaginetheamountconsumedyearly,thosemerchantsare
fleecingus.
Theyhoardthesugarformonths,makingitlooklike
thereisashortagewhenthereisnt,tokeepthepricehigh.
Thesugarcomesintotheportpricedafterdutiespaidat
approximatelyfourhundreddollarsametricton.The
merchantsaresellingitclosetoonethousanddollarsaton.
Theyshouldbestrungupthelotofthem.
Icouldseewhatwashappening.Therichmerchants
boughtallthesugarwhilethelocalSudanesethatwanted
it,likewewantedJWorfags,couldnotgetitunlessthey
paidapremiumforit.TheSudaneselocalspaidwhatwas
askedbecauseoftheshortage.Cheatingthepeoplelegally
butillegally.
IwasthinkingIshouldstartbuyingsugar,andhoarditfor
awhile,butIcouldntdothat.
Ahmedcalledouttometocomeovertotalktohim.He
said,Iamsorrytoinconvenienceyou,butpleasefollowme.
Mystaffcanassistusincarryingouttheinstructionswehave
fromourgovernmenttoopenyourcontainers.
Hehadchangedhistonetosoundmorediplomatic.I
guessedbecausehisfriendswerearound,hewastryingto
impressthem.Webothhadnoissueswitheachother.Wewere
friends,andIcouldunderstandverywellthepredicamenthe
wasin.

Ahmed,youcannotdothat.Thecontainersweresealedin
PortSudanbytheheadofcustoms.Bylaw,onlythecustoms
officershereinKhartoumcanopenthem.YouknowIam
correct,dontyou?
Thecustomspolicewerealwayswaitingformetoarrive
atHafizsplace.Hehadthemonthepayroll.Iwassurehe
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nevergothassledbythem.Sometimestheydidntturnupto
openthecontainers,andHafizwouldtelloneofhisstaffto
hammerthesealsoff.Iwonderedifhestillhadtheminhis
pocket.Ihopedso.
Yes,undernormalcircumstances,youarecorrect,but
thatruleranoutyesterday.Wecannowoverridecustoms.
Wehavenowofficiallybeenappointedatthispostforthat
purpose,andwehavehadinstructionsfromourgovernment
officeinKhartoumtostopallvehiclesthatareentering
Khartoumandspotcheckthem.Here,sir,readthisnotice,
hesaidpolitely.
Iglancedatthenoticethenhandeditbacktohim.Itisin
Arabic.Icannotreadit,Ahmed.
Hegrinned.YouhavetolearntoreadArabic,myfriend.
Istoppedprotesting.Hewasgoingtoopenupthecontainers
nomatterwhatIsaid.Iwasintheshitnowbigtime.Ididnt
knowwhatwascomingnext,buttherewasnowheretorun.
Okay,sir.Whatdoyouhaveinthecontainers?another
copaskedme.
IhadnomoreJohnnyWalkerleftinthecabtobribethem
with.Ionlyhadoneboxoftwohundredcigarettesleft.That
wouldntbenearlyenoughnowthattheseguyswereserious.
Theshitwasabouttohitthefan,andIwasgoingtoget
coveredinit.
TheyweregoingtoopenthecontainersregardlesssoI
couldnttellthemtherewerechickensinthere.Lyingtothem
wouldonlymakeitworseformesoItoldthemIhadsome
beerinthecontainersfordeliverytoastoreinKhartoum.
Beer?heaskedhiseyeslightingup.
Theyalllookedateachother.Thereweresomeothercops
withgunswhowerestandingoutofsight.Theyappeared
fromnowhereandwalkedtothebackofthetruckwiththeir
gunspointedtowardsme.Theyseemedreadyforaction.I
assumedtheycouldntshootmeunderthisnewlaw,butI
didntactuallyknow.
Yes,beer.Fourcontainersofthebloodystuff.
Ifoundmyselfwishingthecontainerswerefullofnappies
orsomethingelse,anythingbutbeer.Maybeevensugar,but
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thenagain,theywouldhavenailedmeforhoardingthat.
Iwasveryworrieditwasgoingtobealongtimeinthe
slammerforme.ItcouldbefiveyearsormoreforallIknew.
WhatIdidknowwasIhadmorebeerthannormalpeople
hadwhentheywerecaughtwithillegalalcohol.
IhopedIwouldnthavetogobacktothatstinkingPort
SudanprisonthatIhadbrieflybeenlockedupinafewyears
earlierthroughnofaultofmyown.Itwasadreadfulplace.
Theydprobablythrowinahundredlashesforgoodmeasure.
Ihadheardtheylashedpeopleunderthislawforalcohol
offencesandothercrimes.Hadjihadsaidtheyalsocutoff
hands.Ilookedatdownatmydirtyfingernails,thinking
theymaynotbetheretomorrowmorning.Butthenagain,
theysurelycouldntlashaforeigner.
HeaskedmeifIhadsomeboxcutters.Itoldhimno.Ionly
hadtoolsforrepairingtyresinthetoolbox.
Hewentovertoacontainertheyhadalongsidethehut,
andpulledoutalargemonkeywrenchwithbigjawslike
dogteethforcuttingmetal.Ithadsomeoldhessiancloth
wrappedaroundit,andhewasstrugglingtocarryit.The
copsdidntlikecarryingheavyobjects.Hecameoverand
passedittome.
Ilookedbackovertothestuffpiledupinthecontainer
theyhadtakenthewrenchfrom.Icouldalsoseesomeboxes
intherewitholdragsontop.
Whatisinthere,Ahmed?Ienquired.
Where?heasked.
Inthecontaineroverthere.Icanseesomeboxespiledup.
Theylooklikeboxesofwater.Maybeyoucangivemesome.
Idonthaveanyleftinthetruck.
IboiledthewateratmyhouseinPortSudanandthen
bottleditandtookitwithmeinacoolerboxofice.One
couldntdrinkthewaterfromthetapwithoutgettingcholera
orsomethingsimilar.
Yes,itswater.Itsfirewater,hesaid.Thereiswhiskey
andsomebrandyinthebox.Wetookitfromasmalltruck
earlythismorningaroundsixam.Thedriverheisnowin
sijin
.Mohammeddrovehimtothecourtearlymorning.
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Hepassedmethewrenchtocutthesealsonthecontainers.
Igrabbedthetopofit,notthepartwheretheclothwas.I
droppeditimmediately.Thepainwasunbearable.
Onewouldhavethoughthehadpulledthewrenchoutof
ablacksmithsfurnaceitwassohot.Thesunsheatmadeit
impossibletoholdtoolsunlesstheyweresoakedinatubof
watertocoolforashortperiod.Ialwayscarriedwateronthe

truckforchangingatyre.Ishouldhaverealizedhowhotthe
wrenchwouldbe.
Iranquicklytothedrumoutsidetheirsmallhut.Iknewit
wasfilledwithwater,albeitwarmasitwassittinginthesun.
Istuckmyarmsin,andithelped.
Areyouokay,sir?
Myfingersareonfire,Ahmed.
Afterashorttimeofcoolingdownandgettingmyselfback
together,Iputtheoldragaroundthewrenchandcutthrough
thecustomssealsonallfourcontainers.Iwassweating
pools.Thewaterpouredoffmeandthepalmsofmyhands
andfingerswerestartingtoblister.Itwasfortyeightdegrees
plus,andthesunwasblazingdownonme.
Thecopopenedthetwobackcontainerdoorsonthesecond
trailer.Twentyorsocasesofbeerfellontotheground,a
fewofthemexplodingandfizzingallovertheplace.Iwish
Hafizwashere.Hewouldhaveflippedhislidwatchingthis
happen.
Whereareyougoingwiththiscargo?
Ihadtotellthem.Iwasntinapositiontoargueortolie.I
wastakingitsomewhere,andtheywouldeventuallyhavegot
itoutofmehadIrefused.Maybetheywouldhavetortured
me,justwhipoffahandwiththatbigknifehehadstuckin
hiswaistbandholster.
IamdeliveringittoOmdurman.
Whoistheownerofthiscargo,andtowhereinOmdurman
areyoutodeliver?
IhavetodelivertoHafizZakat,aSyriantraderoverin
Omdurman.Thetruthis,Iamnotsureofthenameofthe
roadhiswarehousesareon.Ijustdrivethere.Iknowwhere
hisgodownsare.
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Haveyoubeentherebefore?
Yes,IhavebeentheremanytimesbeforesoIamfamiliar
withthearea.Hafizisexpectingmeinafewhourstime.Iam
runninglate.CanIleave?
No,weareafraidyoucannot.
Ihadtotellthemwherehewas.ItlookedlikeIwas
grassinghimup,butwhatelsecouldIdo?Ididntownthe
cargo.Iwasonlytransportingit.HowwasItoknowSharia
lawwouldbeintroducedwhilstIwasinthedesert,drivinga
truckwithninethousandcasesofbeerloadedonit?
Badjossandlotsofitninethousandtimes.Ididhavea
smileonmyface,though.ItwasthethoughtthatIwouldbe
theretoseeHafizsfacewhenhefoundouttheyweregoing
toconfiscatethislotofbooze.Hewouldprobablyhavea

heartattackonthespot.Iwasnthappywiththesituation
obviously,butIwaslookingforwardtoit.
Onthedownside,Iwasnotgoingtogetpaid,thatwasfor
sure.Ihadtokissgoodbyetothethreethousanddollarsor
soIwasduefromMr.Moneybags.Igavehimgoodrates
becauseIhauledalotofcargoforhim,hauledalotofbooze.
Thecontractwasgood.TheyshouldhavenamedhimGold
Fingeratbirth.Yes,thatwouldbeagreatnameforHafiz.
Ifonehadtopicturehowsomeonetheyhadneverseen
looked,Hafizwouldbeeasy.Theydonlyhavetoimagine
theoldactorPeterLoreandmixhisfacewithMarlonBrando
fromthe
Godfather
.ThatwasHafiztoaT.
IassumedhehadprobablyfoundoutaboutShariabeing
introducedinKhartoum.Hewasalocalandwouldhaveseen
thenewsfirsthand,buthenodoubtwantedthatonelastbig
payday,beingasgreedyashewas.
Itwasriskybusiness.Hewasprobablyrunningaroundlike
abluearsefly,tryingtogetridofthestocksofbeer.Plus
hishoardsofscotchandwhateverelsehehadinhisstores
aroundthecityandhisgodownsinOmdurman.Beforethe
Shariapoliceputtheircuffsonhim.
Idbeentoldfromagoodsourcethathealsohadwarehouses
fullofboozeinotherpartsofthecity.However,Ihadnever
beentoanyofthem.Hedcertainlyhadmanyofhisstores
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