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Early studies (e.g.

Shepard 1950) identified a


seasonal cycle of beach morphology with winter
storms promoting offshore sediment transport
and bar formation and calmer conditions in summer
favouring landward migration of the bar and
eventual welding to the beach face. However, the
existence of such winter and summer profiles is
not universal as both barred and non-barred profiles
occur at all times in some areas, while in others
only one type may persist throughout the year.
Furthermore, cyclic beach response at timescales
much shorter than seasons can result in
barred/non-barred profiles (Short 1979).

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