AmericanHistoryToldThroughWomensFashion

SarahMacias
Guerrero
Humanities
November6,2015


SarahMacias
Guerrero
Humanities
November6,2015

OneofthemostfamousadvertisingslogansinAmericanhistorywasreleasedin1968,it
readYouvecomealongwaybaby.Althoughthiswasanadvertisementforcigarettes
marketedspecificallyforwomen,itembodiedtheriseofthenewwoman.Witheachdecadein
Americanhistoryweseethewayinwhichwomenevolve,andwitheachpassingeventwomens
fashionportraysitsstoryinAmericanhistory.
TheUnitedStatesinthelate1800scouldbesummarizedastheAgeofImmigration.The
1890censusindicatesthattheUSpopulationis62,979,766,anincreaseof25.5%sincethe1880
UScensus(Americasbesthistorypar.1).EdwardianFashionwasthedressofwomeninthelate
1800s.Itwascharacterizedbytallstiffcollarslongelegantlines,withtightcorsets,andbroad
hats(Glamourdazepar.1).ThisstylegavebirthtotheGibsonGirlnamedbyCharlesDana
GibsonaLifemagazineillustrator.
TheG
ibsonGirl

firstappearedinHarpersWeeklyinthe
1890s.Combiningatallandslenderfigurewithanamplebosomandhipstocreatewhatwas
describedasthepersonificationofthefeminineidealofbeauty(Glamourdazepar.5).This
desiredstylewasaprimerepresentationoftherolethatwomenhadinsocietyduringthistimein
America.Itwasasiftherestrainingclothingpiecessuchascorsets,symbolizedtheirsocial
restraintsthatweresetforwomen.ThestyleoftheGibsonGirlpromotedtheideathatwomen

werefragile,delicate,pureandweretobeseenasnothingelse.Womenwerenotabletofully
expressthemselvesthewaythatmendid.Educationforwomenwasnotvaluedandorevenseen
necessary.TheGibsonGirlstylecontinueduntilaround1908whenthestylechangedtoamore
naturalistic,simplisticlookinwomen'sfashion.ThistrendwasacceleratedbyAmericasentryin
WWI.
Corsetswereabandonedtofreeupmetalforthewar.Thiseffortalonefreedupenoughmetalto
buildtwobattleships.Beforetheendofthewarwomen'sfashionwasnowcharacterizedby
freedomandconvenience(Glamourdazepar.1).
FollowingtheendofthefirstWorldWarinaperiodreferringtotheroaring20s,
womensfashionexperienceddramaticchanges.TherewasacelebratoryspiritfoundinAmerica
duetotheendofWWI,butalongwithjoycameashiftinfoundationandmorals.Theeventsthat
tookplaceinthewarshookuptheAmericanspiritandchallengedAmericasfaith.Thisresulted
intheideaofenjoyingthemselvesasmuchastheycould(BBCpar.2).Womendressinginthe
newandcolorfulfabricsechoedthejoyfeltthroughoutthecountryafterthewar.HenryAllen
describesthisnewfoundattitudebyWomenignoretheirmotherslessonsonhowalady
appearsinpublicthefaceofsublimitystartstobecomethefaceofsexuality.(Allen,20)The
clothingthatwefindinthe20sisunlikeanyotherattirethatwasseeninpreviousgenerations.
Womennowdressedwithlighterandsyntheticfabrics,aswellasthelengthofdressesgetting
significantlyshorter.Inthepreviousdecade,dressesthatroseabovetheanklewasseena
scandalous.Nowenteringthe20s,dresseswerewornatkneelength!Justbyobservingchange
indresslengthyoucansensethemoodofthe20s.Thisdramaticchangeinwomen'sfashion
communicatedthesocialchangesthatwerehappeninginAmericanculture.Onestylethatwas

specificallypopularwastheiconicFlapperGirl.Womencuttheirhairintostylishbobs,
leavingthelonglocksofthevictorianerabehind.Thechangingroleofwomenwasaresultof
theworktheydidduringthewar,andthenumberofworkingwomenincreasedby25percent.
(BBCpar.2).In1920the19thAmendmentwaspassed,grantingwomentherighttovote,
womenbeganattendingcollege,theequalrightsamendmentwasproposed,everydaymore
womendrovecarsandprosperitywasabundant(Historypar.1).Thoughwomenwerestillfar
frombeingseenasequaltomen,theseeventshelpedtobringtheideaofequalitycloser.
ThecrashoftheU.S.stockmarketinOctoberof1929,markedtheendoftheprosperity
thatwasabundantinthe1920s.TheGreatDepressionwasthelongest,deepest,andmost
pervasivefinancialdepressioninAmericanhistory,whichlastedfrom1929to1939.Itseffects
werefeltinvirtuallyallcornersoftheworld,anditisoneofthegreateconomiccalamitiesin
history(Encyclopediapar.1).Despitetheeconomichardshipthatwasfoundinthe1930s,
knownastheGreatDepression,innovationsinfashionwerebeingmade.Designers
experimentedwithnewsyntheticmaterials.Fabricslikerayon,wool,silk,andcottonwere
commonmaterialsusedforwomen'sfashioninthe1930s.Laternylonwasintroducedasan
alternativeforsilk.DuetotheDepressiontheaveragewomanhadtoremaketheclothesthatshe
alreadyhad.Clotheshadtobepatchedandmendedbeyondwhatwasreasonable,beforethey
wouldconsiderbuyinganewdress(TheSwingpar.5)Theclothingthatwomenworeinthe30s
wasincompletecontrasttothefashionthatwaspopularinthe20s.Weseewomengofrom
daring,lively,andscandaloustotraditionalandconservative.Throughobservationitappearsas
ifwomenhadrevertedbacktothemodeststylethatwasfoundbeforeWWI.Furthermoreitwas
clearthatHollywoodmoviesalsoinfluencedthechangeinfashionforwomeninthe1930s.

AlthoughParisfashionshadabiginfluenceonwomen'sfashioninthe1930s,clotheswornby
famousactresseslikeGretaGarbohadastronginfluenceaswell.Theflappersofthe1920swas
nowoutandamoreconservative,sophisticatedfemininelookwasnowheavilyinfluencedby
Hollywood.
TheDepressionwouldcontinuethroughthe1930suntilthebeginningofWorldWarII
OnSeptember1stof1939,GermanyinvadedPoland.Twodayslater,EnglandandFrance
declaredwaronGermany.ByJune14th1940,GermanycapturedParis.TheU.S.stayedoutof
thewaroverseas,butaftertheJapanesesattackonPearlHarboronDecember7th1941,theU.S.
declaredwaronJapan,Germany,Italy,andofficiallyenteredWWII(PeopleHistorypar.5).The
warinvolvedsixmajorcontinentsandaccountedfor57milliondeaths.(GilderLehrmanpara.1)
DuetothefactthatGermanycapturedParis,thefashiondesignsthatwerecopiedfromthe
FrenchwerenolongeravailablewhichforcedAmericanstobeinnovativeandcreatetheirown
fashions.AmericawouldsoonriseasthesportswearcapitaloftheworldandAmericanfashion
wouldbethestrongestfashioninfluenceupontherestoftheworld(TheSwingpar.6).Tohelp
theAmericanwareffortcertainfabricswereheavilyrestrictedanditemslikestockingsand
leatherwehardtofind.Becauseofthiswomenhadtochooseclothespracticalforwork,andfor
thefirsttimeitbecameacceptableforwomentowearpantsandoveralls.Housedresseswere
wornfordoinghouseworkorlounginginthehouseoryard,andeveningdresseswereoften
simpleshortdresseswithouttoomuchdecorationorfrill.Utilityandpracticalitybecamemore
fashionableandcommonhenceRosietheRiveterwascreatedasarolemodelforwomenall
overthecountry.Herpolkadotbandana,coveralls,androlledupsleeveswasaniconic
representationthatpushedthenumberofworkingwomento20,000,000duringthefirstfour

yearsofthewar.Withmenoffatwarwomenwerelefthometopickupthepieces,takingupthe
jobsthatwerenotcommonlyperformedbywomen.
In1947WWIIcametoanendandbythe1950stheUnitedStateswastheworlds
strongestmilitarypower.Inadditiontothis,a
boomingeconomyhelpedshapetheblissful
retrospectiveviewofthe1950s(U.S.Historypar.3).
Theresultofthisnewprosperitywerenew
cars,suburbanhousesandanabundanceofconsumergoodsavailabletomorepeoplethanever
before.The1950swasalsoaneraofgreatconflictwiththethreatofcommunismathomeand
theariseofthecivilrightsmovementexposingdivisionsinAmericansociety.(Historypar.4)
Traditionallywhenyouthinkofthe50stheideaofaperfectfamilycomestomind.Afamily
wherethere'samother,afatherandjusttherightamountofchildrensittingataexquisitelyset
dinnertable.Thefathersandinguptocutthechickenasthefamilywatchesinanticipation.As
wefurtherlookintothe50sweseeatimewheresuchfamilieswereidolizedand
womenfelt
tremendoussocietalpressuretofocustheiraspirationsonaweddingring(PBSpar.3).Women
tookupgreatprideandimportanceinbeingasuperbmother,andtheirvaluewasseeninthe
home.Inadditiontheseroleswerereflectedintheclothesthattheywore.The1950s
were
markedbystrictconservatisminmanneraswellasindress.Thelookofthisdecadeisscaled
back,women'sdresseswerenarrow,slimmingandtoneddownsolidcolorsbecamepopular.
Dressstylesofthe1950sweremodeledafterthenewlookalookthatwascreatedbyathen
unknownFrenchdesigner,ChristianDior.Daytimehemswerekneelevelandeveninghems
wereatmidcalf.
ThesixtiesheldmanyfundamentalchangesfortheUnitedStates.OnJanuary20th1961,
JohnF.Kennedywaselectedpresident,warragedinVietnam,theSpaceRacecompetitionwas

infullforce,andtheCivilRightsmovementwasatitspeak.Womenwerevoting,andgoingto
collegetoobtainmorethanahusband,anddoingmoreworkoutsidethehome(PBSpar.2)As
eachoftheseeventstookplace,womensfashionreflectedthechanges.The60swasatime
whentheyoungergenerationstartedfindingtheirvoiceandcreatetheirownidentitiesthatwere
separatefromtheirparents.Forthefirsttimeinanyfashionera,youngpeoplebecamethe
leadersinfashion.The1960sareknownforthewomensrightsmovementandthesexual
revolutionthattookplacewithGloriaSteinembeingoneofthemostvisibleleadersofthe
modernwomensmovement(Weatherford,324).Aswomenwentthroughtheirfightforequality
andliberationitwasconveyedthroughtheirfashion.Thetimeswerechangingandfashion
neededtofollow,eventhemostconservativesuitswerecutabovetheknee(FashionGuildpar.
5).FashioniconslikeTwiggyrepresentedthestyleoftheera.Theeventsthattookplaceinthe
60swouldbeonesthatchangedfashionforever.
Atthebeginningofthe70s,somethingwasterriblywronginAmerica.Anarticlewritten
by
History
describesthe70sasatumultuoustime(Historypar.1).Acountrythatwasonce
builtonprideandconfidence,wasnowfeelinginsecureandinferior.
TheUnitedStateswas
supposedtobeasuperpower,yetAmericanforcesprovedpowerlesstostopatinyguerrillaforce
inVietnam(U.SHistorypar.1)
.
ThewarthatcontinuedinVietnampushedAmericatothepoint
ofappearingpowerless.Socialunrestcontinuedtoragethroughthecountry,asAfrican
Americans,andmanyotherunderrepresentedgroups,foughtfortheirequality.Intheprevious
decadethewomensrightsmovementwasignitedandragedonthroughthe70s.Somemight
saythatthe1970scouldbedescribedastheDecadeofDecadence(FashionGuildpar.1).
Womenemergedintheworkplace,wherewomen'sclothingechoedmasculinity.Manyfashion

iconsemergedfromthe70s,likeCherandJoniMitchellwhodisplayedstylesthatwerepopular
atthetime.Womensclotheswereshowingmoreskinthaneverrepresentinghowfarwomens
dresshadcome.Thesamefreespirited,Hippiefashioncarriedonintothefirsthalfofthe
1970s.ThingssuchasMaxidresses,bellbottomsandtiedyewereallbeingworn.Onespecific
trendthatreallyignitedinthe70swasdenim.Denimpants,skirts,hats,andjacketswerebeing
worn.
Withthemalaiseofthe1970sbehind,wemoveintothe1980swherethewordthatbest
resonateswiththistimeinAmericaisBig.RonaldReaganbecamethe40thpresidentofthe
UnitedStatesin1981.ManyAmericansembracedhispoliciescharacterizedbyconservatismin
socialeconomicandpoliticallife(Historypar.2).Inthe1980sweseetheendoftheColdWar
andthefalloftheBerlinwallwhilewomensfashioninthe80sreflectedtheircontinuedrisein
theworkplace.Thefashiontrendthatembodiedthemodern80swoman,wasknowasthe
PowerSuit,whichmirroredemergingstrengthoftheAmericaneconomy.YoungUrban
Professionals,alsoknowasYuppies(Corey,130)wasacommonphraseusedtodescribean
individual'sstriveformoney,mobilityandfulfilment.Theattireofthewomanshifted
dramaticallyfromthatofthe70s.Oncealaidback,freespirited,trend,wentprofessional
business.Onthecontrastofthestrivingprofessional,onceagainAmericanyouthwasdefining
theirownstyle.Hairwasteasedtoexcessiveheights,andmakeupwasloudandcolorful.MTV
wasintroducedonAugust1,1981,andmusicwasalargeinspirationinthefashion.Itwastruly
atimeofexcitementandextravagance.
Peace,prosperity,order,andAmericanculturewasvibrantandhealthyinthe1990s,
andthebillsstartedcomingdueinaneraofunemploymentandreducedincome,Americans

begantuggingattheirbootstrapsagain(Collins,216)AfterrejectingthepoliciesofRonald
ReaganandGeorgeBush,themoodofthecountrybegantoshiftagain.ThevoterselectedBill
Clintontoleadthem.Thisnewpresident,oneoftheyoungest,representedanopportunityfor
freshthinkingandyouthfulenthusiasm.Anewemphasisondomesticmatterstookplaceinan
efforttotakeAmericabacktothedaysof19thcenturyisolationism(Collins,217).OnFebruary
21st1991,theGulfwarended,buttensionsintheMiddleEastcontinuedtogrow.Inthe
beginningofthe90s,fashiontrendswereacontinuationofthe80s.Neoncolors,whilethe
classic80spantsuitremainedapopulartrend.Asthe90scontinuedittookaturn,taking
inspirationfrompreviousgenerations.
The90stookinfluencefromthe
sixties
and
seventies
stylesandanewlaidbackstylematerialized(CatWalkpar.1).
Newdesignersemergedandthe
faceoffashionchangedonceagain.Goneweretheeightiessharpshouldersandescalatedhair
andincameamorerelaxedcasualstyle(Catwalkpar.8).

Womencontinuedtheirsteadyclimbin
theworkplace.Whilefashioncontinuedtobeinspiredbythemusicindustry.Grungemusic
madeitsentranceintothe90s.PopularbandssuchasPearlJam,andNirvanainspireddarkand
edgyattire.However,grungewasn'ttheonlytypeofmusicinspiringclothing,asHipHopand
Popmusicwerealsoproducedveryiconicclothing.
Aswemoveintothe21stcentury,Americahadincreasedinpopulationby13%sincethe
1990s().ThenewmillenniummeantanewAmerica.TheUnitedStatesenteredthe21stcentury
astheleadingusersofInternetandsatellitetechnology(U.S.Historypar.8).Throughthe
advancesintechnologyAmericawasabletospreadtheircultureacrosstheglobe.Food,style
andfashionwereallbeingshared.Astheuseoftheinternetbecamemorepopular,theworld
seemedtogetsmaller,connectingthroughonecommonsource.TheUnitedStatestensionwith

theMiddleEastreacheditsheight.TwoplanesdeliberatelycrashedintotheWorldTradeCenter,
locatedinNewYorkCity,onSeptember11,2001.AnotherplanealsotargetedthePentagon
locatedinVirginia.TheplaneswerehijackedbymembersofAlQaeda,aMiddleEastern
terroristgroupleadbyOsamaBinLaden.TheattackonAmericangroundsdeeplyimpactedthe
wayinwhichthe21stcenturycontinued.GeorgeW.Bush,whoservedasAmericas43rd
president,declaredwaronIraq,leadingusintoa11yearlongwar.
Aswecomparewomenofthe2000stowomeninpreviousdecades,suchasthe50sweseethat
womenhavemadeacompleteshift.Womennowmoreoftenbeingseenasequalsinthe
workplaceandnolongerhavingtolivetheHousewifelife.Thoughthetraditionalrolewas
notcompletelyabandonedbyallwomen,theynowhavethechoicetolivelifeastheydesire.
Clothingthatwasworninthelate90swascontinuedintotheearly2000sandbecamemore
modernastheyearsprogressed.
Longflowyskirts,cowboyboots,embroideredtops,floral
fabrics,baggycardigans,furrygiletsandhobobagswereallworn(Catwalkpar.9).
Aswelook

atwomensfashioninthe2000sweseethatittakestrendsfrompreviousdecadesand
generations,andgivesthemaNewMillenniumlook.
WomensfashionhascommunicatedthesocialconditionofAmericancultureinan
uniquewaythroughoutthedecades.Thewaythatwomenhistoricallydressedandcurrentlydress
tellsastoryofAmericanculture,allwhileadaptingtheirdresstoeconomicchanges,role
changesandcivilunrestwithinAmerica.Aswomenembracetheremainingyearsofthenew
millenniumtheycontinuethislegacyoftheAmericanstorybythewaytheydress.

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