Soil Analysis

For this test, Kayleen had gotten a sample of soil outside of Door R close to the Junior
High. The area the sample was taken from was muddy and no grass was growing in the soil. To
begin, we observed the different qualities of the soil to determine what kind of soil it could be.
We also analyzed the soil under a stereomicroscope to find the abiotic and biotic components of
our sample. For abiotic, there was water and small particles of rock and for biotic, there was
grass, roots, leaves and small bugs.
After making the general observations, we moved on to analyze organic matter, which
uses the color of the soil. Our sample was called gleyic, which means there is a presence of
ferrous and ferric compounds, activity of plant roots and alternation reducing and oxidizing
conditions. Even though there wasnt much growing on the spot chosen, this provides the
information needed to say that something could successfully grow here. However, there are some
other topics to consider.
The consistency of the soil is firm, meaning that it resists crumbling and it would take
effort to break into pieces. This would help keep the plant from being knocked over from winds
or other causes. The fertility of the soil also determines the nutrients found in the soil a plant
needs in order to survive. Four components determine the results; pH and the levels of nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium. The pH of the soil should be around 7, not too acidic and not too
alkaline. Nitrogen should be high, potassium: low, and phosphorous should be low as well. Our
results came back saying that our pH level was a 6, the nitrogen levels were low, phosphorous
was low and the potassium was high. With clay being 68.4% of the sample and silt being 31.6%,

we determined that we had a clay-type soil. The kind of soil that is ideal for growing crops is
silty clay, which can be achieved through little changes.
The pH of the soil doesnt need to be changed as long as it doesnt fall below 6.
Otherwise, fertilizers will be needed in order to retain, raise or lower the pH value. To raise the
nitrogen levels, there are two ways this can be done: organically or non-organically. Although
organic methods require time, they will provide a more even distribution of nitrogen over time.
These methods include; adding composted manure, planting a green manure crop (i.e. borage,
cereal rye, agricultural mustard), planting nitrogen fixing plants (i.e. peas, beans, peanuts), or
adding coffee grounds to the soil. The non-organic route is a quick way to add nitrogen to the
soil but fades very quickly. Look for chemical fertilizers and be sure to check the NPK ratio, it
will look something like x-x-x, showing the amount of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium are
within it. The first number tell you the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer.
Lowering the levels of potassium in the soil is more about preventing it from growing
than about reducing it. As stated with nitrogen, the choice of fertilizer is very important, not just
any will do. A fertilizer with high levels of nitrogen and very little potassium (although no
potassium altogether would be best), would be the best option. Too much potassium disrupts a
plants ability to absorb the other nutrients it needs to sustain itself. Too little nitrogen causes a
plant to be unable to absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. However, having too much
nitrogen will attract insects and diseases, so choice in method is key.
Another tip to help create a healthy garden would be to add organic matter to the soil as
well as garden worms. These two techniques would work together to create rich, fertile, loose,
well-drained soil. Perfect for growing crops.