Textile Calculation | Different Formula of Textile Calculation

TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

Ramandeep Singh
B.Tech, Dept. of Textile Engineering
Giani Zail Singh Punjab Technical University Campus,
Bathinda, Punjab, India
Email: rmnsandhu3335@gmail.com

FIBER FINENESS, YARN COUNTS AND CONVERSIONS

Micronaire Value (Cotton): The unit is micrograms per inch. The average weight of one inch
length
of
fibre,
expressed
in
micrograms(0.000001
gram).
Denier

(Man-Made

Fibres):

Weight

in

grams

per

9000

meters

of

fibre.

Micron (Wool): Fineness is expressed as fibre diameter in microns(0.001mm)

Conversions:

Denier = 0.354 x Micronaire value

Micronaire value = 2.824 x Denier

YARN
It is broadly classified into;
1. INDIRECT SYSTEM
2. DIRECT SYSTEM

INDIRECT SYSTEM

COUNTS

English count (Ne)

French count(Nf)

Metric count(Nm)

Worsted count

Metric system: Metric count(Nm) indicates the number of 1 kilometer(1000 meter) lengths per
Kg.

Nm = length in Km / weight in kg (or)

Nm = length meter / weight in grams

DIRECT SYSTEM

Tex count

Denier

CONVERSION TABLE FOR YARN COUNTS

Tex
Tex
Ne

590.54/tex

Den

tex x 9

Nm

1000/tex

Grains/yd
Where,

tex / 70.86
Nm

Den

Nm

Grains/yd

den/9

1000/Nm

gr.yd x 70.86

5314.9/den

Nm x .5905

8.33 / gr/yd

9000/Nm

gr/yd x 637.7

9000/den

14.1 / gr/yd

den / 637.7
metric
count,

14.1/Nm
Nec

cotton

CONVERSION TABLE FOR WEIGHTS

Ounce
Ounce
Grains

0.03527
ounces

Grams

0.03527
grains

Grains

Grams

437.5 grains

28.350
grams

Kilograms Pounds

0.0648
grams
15.432
grains

0.001 kgs

count

35.274
ounces

Kilograms
Pounds

2.2046
pounds

15432 grains 1000 grams

453.59
grams

16.0 ounces 7000 grains

0.4536 kgs

CONVERSION TABLE FOR LINEAR MEASURES

Yard
Yard

Feet

Inches

Centimeter

Meter

3 feet

36 inches

91.44 cms

0.9144
meter

12 inches

30.48 cms

0.3048
meter

2.54 cms

0.254
meter

Feet

0.3333
yards

Inches

0.0278
yards

0.0833 feet

Centimeter

0.0109
yards

0.0328 feet

Meter

1.0936
yards

3.281 feet 39.37 inches

0.3937
inches

0.01meter
100 cms

CALCULATIONS

Grams per meter = 0.5905 / Ne

Grams per yard = 0.54 / Ne

Tex = den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4

Ne = Nm/1.693

DRAFT = (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m)

DRAFT = Tex (feed) / Tex(delivery)

DRAFT = delivery roll surface speed / feed roll surface speed

No of hanks delivered by m/c = (Length delivered in m/min) / 1.605

WINDING

1.

Slub
a.

Fixed

catcher
Blade
=
Combed

settings

Carded
(1.5

(2.0
to

to
2.5)
2.0)
x

diameter
diameter

b. Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 diameter

Diameter

in

inch

for

Blended
=

yarn
10

=
to

1/(
15%

28
x
more

count
)
settings

Number of objectionable thick faults removed by slub catcher

2.Yarn clearer efficiency=...........................................................................................x 100
Total objectionable thick faults present in yarn before winding
3.

Knot

4.

Retained

5.

Winding

Total
breaks
factor
No.
of
breaks
Strength
strength

splice
Tension

during
winding
(at
faults)
=...............................................................................
due
to
objectionable
yarn
faults

0.1

of

spliced
joint
x
100
=
...........................................................
Strength
of
parent
yarn
Single

yarn

4500
6. Expected efficiency E = ......................................................
S
x
N

strength
x

in

grams

Y
(12

98)

7. Winders workload (0.17 min/operation on conventional winding m/c) = 2300 operations per
shift
of
8
hours
Where,

1 creeling or 1 piecing = 1 operation

1 doffing = 2 operations

8. Winders workload on autoconer (0.08 min per operation) = 4800 operations/shift of 8 hours
Where,

1 bobbing feeding = 1 operation

1 doffing (manual) = 4.5 operation

Y
=
B
=
S
=
C = English count

Length/Bobbin
Breaks
per
Winding
speed

(metres)
bobbin
(metres/min)

9. Production in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)

L - delivery speed in m/min

effy - efficiency

Ne - english count

Nd - No of delvieries

10. P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045)

P - production in kgs / hr

L - delivery speed in m/min

effy- efficiency

Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)

840 - constant

2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms

WARPING
1.

R
Efficiency

Machine

x
E
R

Uninterrupted

running

time

for

1,000

1000
x
.................................................
Machine
speed

100
=.............................
+
meters

(in

S
sec)

60
in

mtr/min.

S = Total of time in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1,000 meters
B

T1

T2

T3

R
400

---------------L
LxC

------

B = Ends breaks/400 ends/1,000 meters

N = Number of ends

L = Set length in 1,000 meters

C = Beams per creel

-----------

T4

Timing of activities in seconds are :

T1 = To mend a break

T2 = To change a beam

T3 = To change a creel

T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss/1,000 mtrs.

2. Production in metres per 8 hrs. (K) = 480 x mtrs/min x E/100 kgs.

3.

Production

4.

Warping

in

Kgs.

Tension

per
=

hrs.

0.03

=
to

(K

N)/(1693

0.05

Single

English

Count)

thread

strength

SIZING
1.

Warp

2.

Size

3.
4.

weight

pick-up

Weight
Stretch

of

Length
in
metre
x
1.094
x
Total
ends
kg.) = x 100
840 x 2.204 x Warp count

(in

Sized
warp
weight
Unsized
warp
weight
% = x 100
Un-sized
warp
weight
size

Sized
%
=

Warp

Weight

Size

pick

up

warp
length
Unsized
warp
length
x
100
Un-sized
warp
length

Total-ends

Warp

length

in

yards

5.

Sized

yarn

count
=
Sized

warp
weight
(lbs)
x
840

Wt. of sized yarn - Wt. of oven dried yarn

6. % of Moisture content= x 100
Wt. of sized yarn
Deliver
counter
reading
Feed
counter
7. % of Stretch = x 100
Feed
counter

8.

840,000
on
loom
=
454 Y x N x P

Droppings

D = Dropping in gms.
C
=
Y = Length woven (yds.)
N
=
P = % size add on
9.
=

x
D
x
.

English

reading
reading
C
x

100

Count

Number

of

Invisible

Ends
Loss%

Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn

.....................x
100
Amount
of
size
issued

Steam,
Consumption
(Cooker)
=
(Sow
box)
10.

Max.

11.

Wt.

Speed

of

(Sizing
0.3
=
of

M/c)
0.2

No. of
machine

warp

=
2.0
kg/kg
of
kg/kg
of
kg/kg
of

sized
yarn
liquor
yarn

Cylinder x 1,000 x English count

=

(metres/min)
Number
of
ends

Number
in

of
gms/mtr
English

ends
=

x
0.6

count

WEAVING
1.
Reed

Reed

Count
width

It

is
=

calculated

in

stock

port

EPI

system.

1
No.

of

dents

2.

+
in

Weft
inches

Reed

Reed

width

is

called

%age
Reed

Width
100
Cloth

3.

crimp

+
width

Count

:
Weft

crimp
%age

100

Crimp

Warp

Crimp

Weft

Crimp

4.

%
:
Warp
length
Cloth
%age
=.
Cloth
length
Weft
%age

EPI
cover

Warp

length
Cloth

Cloth
length
factor
Warp

length
x
100

length
100

....................................
Count
PPI

5.

Weft

cover

factor

=.
Weft

6.

Cloth

7.

factor

Maximum
a.

Wp.C.F.

EPI

For

for

plain

fabrics

Wt.C.F.

Wp.C.F. x Wt. C.F.

.
28

particular

count

14

:
Count

b.

For

drill

fabrics

Count

28

4/6

c.

For

satin

fabric

Count

28

5/7

d.

8.

cover

count

Other

Yarn

Ends/repeat
x
1
/
yarn
diameter
design
=
..
No.
of
intersections
/
repeat
+
ends/repeat
diameter
28

1
=
x

Count

Weave
1.

Density

Warp

density

Ends/cm

=
2.

Filling

density

Picks/cm

=
3.

Weave

(Warp
=
50
(Weft

Density

Tex

<

250
x

Tex

<

350

density
100)
x
F.D.100
+

density
100)
x
F.D.100

4. Effective weave density = W.D. x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72

Count Table

To change the count and number of thread/inch, keeping the

same denseness of the fabric :
1.

To

change

the

EPI

without

altering

the

denseness

EPI in given cloth x Warp count in expected

EPI in Exp.Cloth =
2.
EPI

To
in

Warp

change
exp.

cloth

Warp count in given cloth

the
count
without
altering
=

the

EPI
in
exp.
x Count
EPI
in
given

requirement

to

weave

:
cloth

denseness

cloth2
in given
cloth

cloth

cloth

Total ends x 1.0936 x 453.59 x crimp%

1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =..............................................x Wasteage%
840
x
Count
2.

Weft

weight

in

R.S.
in
inches
x
=x
Crimp
840 x Count

453.59
x

gms/mtrs.
x
Waste

PPI
%

3. Cloth length in mtrs.with the given weft weight

Weft wt. in kgs. x Weft count x 1848 x 0.9144
=.
PPI x R.S. in inches

For

Silk

1.

and

Warp

weight

Total
ends
x
..............x

Polyester

2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs.

RS
in
inches
x
=
........

in
Crimp%
9000

Count
x

gms/mtrs.
(Denier)
Waste
%age

PPI
x
Count
x
Crimp%
x
9000

(Denier)
Wasteage%

Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric :

Count becomes 4%

Finer Dyed counts become max.6% Coarser

FABRIC

PRODUCTION

1.

Motor
RPM
Loom

2.

Loom

Loom

speed

Efficiency

Motor

pulley
diameter
.
pulley
diameter

Actual
production
=
------------------------------x
Calculated
production

100

3.

Moisture

Regain

4.

Moisture

5.

Warp

6.

Weft

7.

Cloth

8.

Oz

Yarn
% =

Content

weight

in

weight

weight
dried
yarn
----------------------------------------------Yarn
weight

Total
ends
in
Kg.
=
1693.6

weight

(Ounce)

x
Tape
length
in
metre
-----------------------------------------------------x
Warp
count

EPI
-----------------count

GSM =
Warp
per

GSM
sq.yard

(D
=

Where,
L
=
Length
t
=
Thickness
D
=
Outside
d = Inside diameter (inches)

PPI
-------------------- x 25.6
Weft
count

(Grams
per
sq.
metre)
=
-------------------------------------------34

measurement
length
of

of

0.0655

weight
x 100

RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres x PPI

Kg. = ------------------------------------------------------------------4301.14
x
Weft
count

in

Material
For
calculating
L

Yarn
weight
Dryed
yarn
weight
% = ----------------------------------------------------- x 100
Dryed
yarn
weight

:
any

rolled

fabrics

d)
(D
+
--------------------------------t
of
of

material
fabrics
diameter

:
d)

(feet)
(inches)
(inches)

Weight
of
yarn
in
a
cloth
:
The weight of cloth manufactured on loom depends upon the weight of yarns in the warp and
weft : ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp.
Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in lbs.)
Total No. of Ends x Tape length in yds.
Where as Weight of warp in lbs = ----------------------------------------------------840
x
Warp
yarn
count

Also

Weight

of

weft

in

Length of cloth (yds) x Picks/inch in cloth x Reed width

= ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------840 x Weft yarn count
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lbs.
(inch)