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Ultimate
garden shed
This article originally appeared in The Family Handyman magazine.
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Copyright 2005 Home Service Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Unauthorized reproduction, in any manner, is prohibited. The Family Handyman, Handy Hints and Great Goofs are registered trademarks of RD Publications, Inc. Ask Handyman, Handyman Garage, How a House Works, Re.Do, Re.Mod, TFH Reports, The Home Improvement Authority, Using Tools,
Woodworks, Wordless Workshop, Workshop Tips, You Can Fix It, You Can Grow It are trademarks of RD Publications, Inc.
Ultimate
garden
Two sheds
in one,
this rustic cedar shed will
keep everyone
happy.
26
shed
by Jeff Gorton
JULY / AUGUST 20 03
27
12-1/2" SQ.
VENT OPENING
ROOF
PANELS
RIDGE
2x4
PURLINS
SCREEN
2x4 BLOCKING
1x2 ON EDGE
1x4 TRIM
2x4 FRAMING
LAID FLAT
7/8"x7/8" BATTENS
1x6 FASCIA
SIDEWALL
FLASHING
1x6 FASCIA
2x4
SUBFASCIA
DOUBLE 2x6
HEADER
(DOORS AND
WINDOWS)
6
22" x 29"
BARN
SASHES
EXTRA
CRIPPLE
STUDS
2x6 BEAMS
6"
1-1/2"
6"
4x4
CEDAR
POST
1x1 x 7"
2x2 x 14";
CENTER ON
VERTICAL
1x8 TRIM
3"
4-1/2"
4x4 POST
DETAIL 1
2x6
BEAMS
1"
POST TOP
1" LEVEL WITH
1x6 FASCIA
DETAIL 2
28
SILL
STOCK;
MITER
CORNERS
4x4
TREATED
POST
1x4
TRIM
CANTILEVERED 2x4
2x4 PURLIN
2" OF BLOCKING
2x4 SUBFASCIA
DETAIL 3
2x4 BLOCKING
2x4 PURLINS
1x6 FASCIA
2x4 FLY RAFTER
5/8" CEDAR
PLYWOOD
1x4
RAKE
TRIM
FLASHING
1x4 TRIM
1/2"
PLYWOOD
1x6 TRIM
7
1x10 TRIM;
RIP TO
WIDTH
5
2x SILL
22" x
41-1/4"
BARN
SASHES
BATTENS
uilding this shed isnt complicated, nor does it require more than
basic carpentry experience. Still, its a big job, and if youve built
a deck or done other major remodeling, youll find this project the next
step up in skill level. Itll take you and a helper three or four weekends
to build plus another few days to seal the siding and put on the
finishing touches.
The total cost of materials
for the shed shown is about
$3,600, including $360 for the
concrete paver floor and $250
for the metal roofing. If this is
a little beyond your budget,
you could easily save several
hundred dollars by simplifying the exterior trim details
and using less expensive
flooring material.
In addition to basic hand
tools, youll need a circular
saw, drill, table saw and power
miter saw.Youll also need
6-ft. and 10-ft. stepladders to
work on the roof and tall
gable ends. If you really want
to speed up the work and
simplify your job, rent scaffolding with a set of casters.
Most of the materials for this shed are readily available at home centers
and lumberyards.You may have to order the barn sash windows and the
grooveless cedar plywood, however. If your lumber supplier doesnt sell
the metal roofing material, check local roofing or farm supply retailers.
A few colors are stocked, but youll have to special-order the roofing
materials to get a custom color or have the panels cut to the exact length
you need. Check p. 47 for the list of the roofing materials.
GRAVEL
6x6 TREATED
2x10 TREATED
JULY / AUGUST 20 03
29
LEVEL
STRING LINE
TREATED
2 x10
5" DEEP
GRAVEL
TREATED
6x6
1
MEASURE
FROM STRING
TO 2 x10
Drive stakes 2 in. beyond the perimeter dimensions (see Figure B). Check
for square by measuring diagonally (as in
Photo 2). Tie a string to the stakes level at
the height of the future floor. Dig an 18-in.
wide trench down to 12 in. below the
string. Fill the trench with 5 in. of gravel
and level the top. Cut treated 2x10s so
their outside edges are even with the
string and tamp them into the gravel with
a sledge until theyre level and 5-1/2 in.
below the string line.
4' LEVEL
EQUAL
MEASUREMENTS
Start by outlining
the shed with stakes
and string
The first step in the construction
process is to accurately stake out the
perimeter (Photo 1). Were using
2x10s as our foundation with 6x6s
resting on them. The 2x10s will stick
out beyond the 6x6s about 2 in., so set
your stakes 2 in. beyond the shed
dimensions to mark their outer
edges. Use a line level ($3) to level
the strings. Then double-check the
distance between stakes and make
sure the diagonal measurements of
each rectangular section are equal
before you start digging.
Remove all the sod or other
organic material inside the perimeter
of the strings. Then dig the trench
and set the 2x10 footing plates on a
bed of gravel (Photo 1). Roughly
level the 2x10s by measuring down
from the string. Then fine-tune with a
4-ft. or longer level. Take your time
here. An out-of-level foundation will
cause you problems later.
Complete the wood foundation
by cutting the 6x6s to length and
nailing them together at the corners
(Photo 2 and Fig. B). The edge of the
6x6s should be about 2 in. inside the
string line and the top should be level
with the string. Square the 6x6s
(Photo 2) and level them with shims.
Then toe-screw them into the 2x10s
and pack gravel around the perimeter
to hold everything in place.Youll
need about 3-1/4 yards of 3/8-in. to
1/2-in. crushed gravel.
10"
GALVANIZED
SPIKES
12" LONG
1/4" BIT
30
Figure B Foundation
2" x 18" x 18"
CONCRETE
PAVERS
2x4
TREATED
PLATE
GRAVEL
6x6
2"
2x10
TYPICAL
SECTION
5' 10"
GRAVEL
BASE
16' 4"
8'
TREATED
2x10s
8' 4"
9' 10"
5' 6"
8'
16"
TREATED
6x6s
8'
9' 6"
JULY / AUGUST 20 03
31
HAND
TAMPER
DIAMOND
BLADE
2" DEEP
NOTCH
18" CEMENT
PAVERS
Add 3-in. layers of gravel and pack each layer with a hand tamper to
within 2 in. of the top. Drag a notched 2x4 over the gravel to create
a flat, level base for the concrete pavers.
2-3/4"
45
14-3/4"
PURLINS
19"
45-DEGREE
ANGLE
2-3/4"
19"
19"
45
51-1/2"
19"
2x8
2x8
2x8 PATTERN
RAFTER
10-3/4"
SPEED
SQUARE
3-1/2"
1/2" PLYWOOD
GUSSET
MEASURE
FOR STUDS
2x8 RAFTER
12-1/2"
POSITIONING
BLOCKS
FRAMING
SQUARE
GABLE END
STUDS
2x
TIE
SS
RO
C
6
32
TRIMMERS
STUD
MARKING
TEMPORARY
BRACE
KING
STUD
TOP
PLATE
SPACER
BLOCKS
WINDOW
SPACERS
TREATED
BOTTOM PLATE
STUD
MARKS
OPENING MARKS
(TRIMMERS)
DOUBLE
SILL
CRIPPLE
STUDS
3"
8'
32" DOOR
OPENING
85-1/2" (STUDS)
23-1/4"
24-1/4"
WINDOW
OPENINGS
DOUBLE
2x4 SILLS
24"
16'
24" WINDOW
OPENINGS
8'
24"
46-1/2" SLIDING
DOOR OPENING
(CENTERED)
24"
9' 6"
23-1/4"
2x4 TREATED
PLATE (TYPICAL)
24"
OPENING
31-1/4" (SHORT WINDOW)
43-1/2" (TALL WINDOW)
POST
FOOTING
CRIPPLE STUD
45-3/4" (SHORT WINDOW)
33-1/2" (TALL WINDOW)
DOUBLE
2x4 SILLS
24"
24"
23-1/4"
5' 6"
22-5/8"
24"
WALL
FRAMING
HEIGHTS
TEMPORARY
BRACE
CLEAT
STRAIGHT BOARD
(ORANGE)
SPACER BLOCK
(GREEN)
DOUBLED
TOP PLATE
16d NAIL
OVERLAP
CORNERS
4'
LEVEL
WINDOW
SPACER
10
TEMPORARY
DIAGONAL BRACE
SPACER BLOCK
(GREEN)
48"
11
9-3/4"
48"
MEDIUM PURLIN
(7 REQ'D)
RAFTER
LOCATIONS
115-1/2"
9-3/4"
48"
48"
48"
48"
9-3/4"
48"
48"
9-3/4"
211-1/2"
LONG PURLIN
(3 REQ'D)
SHORT PURLIN
(3 REQ'D)
105-3/4"
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 20 03
35
INTERMEDIATE
TRUSS
12
LONG PURLIN
2x 4
BRACE
PURLINS
2x4
BLOCKING
HURRICANE
TIE
LEAVE
1-1/2"
SPACE
CANTILEVERED
2x4
2x4 SUBFASCIA
13
36
CA
NT
ILE
VE
RE
D
2x
PURLIN
2x4 SUBFASCIA
CAUTION
CLAMP
UPSIDE-DOWN
ROOF PANEL
STRAIGHT
BOARD
CLAMP
BACKER
BOARD
14
CUT
EDGE
LINE UP WITH
PURLINS
OVERLAP
SEAM
SCREW
BOTH SIDES
1x6 CEDAR
FASCIA
OVERLAPPED SEAM
15
16
RUBBER
WASHER
SELF-SEALING
HEX HEAD SCREWS
38
6d GALVANIZED
SIDING NAILS
17
EQUAL
DISTANCE
1x4 CEDAR
FRAME
22" x 41-1/4"
BARN SASH
1/2"
PLYWOOD
1x4 CEDAR
DOUBLE
2x6
HEADER
1x6 CEDAR
HEAD
JAMB
DOOR/
WINDOW
1/2" x 7/8"
STOP
DETAIL 4 (FIG. A)
DOOR/WINDOW
HEAD JAMB
WINDOW
SASH
WINDOW
JAMB
2x SILL;
RIP
AT 15
DOUBLE
2x4 SILL
2"
DETAIL 5 (FIG. A)
WINDOWSILL
18
Build 1x4 cedar frames for the barn sash, allowing for a
1/8-in. gap around the sash. Hinge the sash at the top and
nail 1/2-in. x 7/8-in. stops around the inside. Level the frames in the
openings and adjust with shims until the gap between the sash and
frame is even and the space between pairs of windows is equal on the
top and bottom. Nail through the frame and shims from inside to
secure the windows. Cut off the shims.
SIDE
JAMB
WINDOW
SILL
45-DEGREE
MITER
15-DEGREE
BEVELS
16d GALVANIZED
CASING NAIL
19
1x4
2x4
BLOCKING
1x6
1/2" PLYWOOD
1x6
2x4
STUD
WALL
CANTILEVERED 2x4
2x4 PURLIN
2x8
RAFTER
19-1/2"
2x4
BLOCKING
LAYOUT
STICK
10"
2x6
CROSSTIE
2x4
SUBFASCIA
1x4s
1x6 FASCIA
1x6
12"
7' 6"
(WALL
HEIGHT)
2"
CONCRETE
PAVERS
20
Cut cedar boards to fit around windows and doors and nail them
into place. Continue the top 1x6 cedar board across the end of
the shed. Shim out the 1x4 board over this with 1/2-in. plywood strips
and add a metal drip cap overtop before cutting and installing the gable
end plywood. Mark the batten locations every 12 in. and nail them up
with galvanized siding nails.
42
1/2"
PLYWOOD
SPACER
(TYPICAL)
1"
GRAVEL
FILL
2"
2x10 TREATED
6x6
TREATED
TEMPORARY
SHIMS
3" x 3"
STORM
DOOR
HINGE
1/2" SPACE
21
Cut the wood storm door 3/16 in. narrower and 1/2 in.
shorter than the framed opening. Hold it in place with
shims while you attach it with storm door hinges. Install the
storm door latch and a spring or closer if desired.
NOTCH
AROUND 2x4
1x4 PICTURE
FRAME
SIDEWALL
FLASHING
INSECT
SCREEN
23
1-1/2" METAL
DRIP CAP
22
44
SLIDING DOOR
ROLLERS
HANGER
BRACKETS
1x3
CEDAR
24
1x3s
(FLAT)
5/8" CEDAR
PLYWOOD;
48" x 80-1/2"
STOP BLOCK
7/8"x7/8"
BATTENS
1x4
2"
2x4; RIP
T0 2-3/4"
1x4;
RIP TO 3"
3/8" x 5"
LAG SCREW
2-3/4"
TRACK
ROLLERS
DOOR
1x4
JAMBS
JOHNSON
100 SERIES
TRACK
25
DOOR
BATTEN
BAR
HOLDER
2x4
6x6
1x4
HORIZONTAL 1x2
1x2
7/8"x7/8"
BATTENS
Figure G
Sliding Door Detail
46
1x6
1x3 TRIM
Qty.
FOUNDATION
3/8" crushed gravel
Item
Qty.
10
45
WALLS
2x4 x 10' treated
METAL ROOFING
1
3
75
350
HARDWARE
1-1/2" metal drip cap, 10' lengths
ROOF FRAMINGTRUSSES
5 lbs.
5 lbs. each
10 lbs.
5 lbs. each
ROOF FRAMINGPURLINS
AND SUBFASCIAS
14
ROOF FRAMING
OVERHANGS AND BLOCKING
2x4 x 8' spf
1 lb.
1 lb. each
28
5
36
12
11
4 pairs
SIDING
15
10
1 set
9'
Construction adhesive
2 tubes
Window screen
2 sq. ft.
CEDAR ARBOR
29
12
JULY / AUGUST 20 03
47