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Northern soul
Yorkshires majestic
moors and stunning
stately homes
Oxfords
dreaming
spires
Inside the citys
historic colleges
Building
Britain
Architects who
made their mark
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ITS HARD TO BELIEVE THAT Colin
Page 8 The 18th century landscape garden at Stourhead, Wiltshire, featured in Pride and Prejudice in 2005
Contents
40
MANSIONS AND
MANNERS
PORTOBELLO GOLD
18
46
COMPETITION
Win an all-expenses-paid
holiday to Britain with stays
in top luxury hotels and
other exciting treats
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AT HOME WITH
HOLMES
Page 30 Queen Victorias palace
KEY TO THE
KINGDOM
50
THE INSIDER
30
54
THE TREASURES OF
KENSINGTON PALACE
We meet the palaces senior
curator to discover its delights
DREAMING SPIRES
Page 18 Win a life-changing trip
discoverbritainmag.com 3
Contents
66
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BUILT BRITAIN
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Travel notes
Nicola Rayner tours the country to bring you
the last word in luxury travel
PAPER TRAIL
discoverbritainmag.com 7
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Mansions
& manners
Jane Austens sublime settings are as famous as the heroes
and heroines of her novels. Nancy Alsop tours the estates
used as screen locations, and those that inspired Miss Austen
Left: The Octagon Drawing Room at Basildon Park, imagined as Netherfield in the 2005 Pride and Prejudice film
discoverbritainmag.com 9
Jane Austen
10 discoverbritainmag.com
Above: Lacock,
Wiltshire, which
doubles as Meryton
in TVs 1995 Pride
and Prejudice
Below: Castle Ashby
reputedly inspired
Mansfield Park
FACEBOOK.COM/VISITGUERNSEY
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Xxx
Left: Chatsworth House in
Derbyshire is allegedly the real
inspiration for Pemberley in
Pride and Prejudice
Right: The dining room at
Lyme Park, which stood
in for Pemberley in the
BBCs 1995 production
12 discoverbritainmag.com
Xxx
discoverbritainmag.com 13
Jane Austen
14 discoverbritainmag.com
discoverbritainmag.com 15
Jane Austen
For more beautiful photographs of
real-life Jane Austen locations, go to
www.discoverbritainmag/
jane-austen-on-location
Claydon House
It takes little imagination to see why
Claydon House, a glorious example of the 18th century
stately home, featured in the 1996 film adaptation of
Emma, starring Gwyneth Paltrow. The consummate
matchmaker attends a ball at the fictional Donwell House,
and it is here that our heroine realises that Mr Knightley
is more to her than simply a brother figure.
One of the older of the stately homes featured here,
Claydon in Buckinghamshire was built in 1620 for
the Verney family. It still remains under this familys
ownership, while being open to the public. (Sir Edmund
16 discoverbritainmag.com
Top: Looking
through to the
Morning Room and
Velvet Drawing
Room at Saltram,
Devon, where
Jane Austen was a
regular guest
Bottom: Bath
Assembly Rooms
Bath and
Saltram House
Competition
Five-star London
On arrival, our winner and his or her
companion will be whisked to the
heart of town to spend two nights in
a Junior Suite at the fabulous Savoy,
where previous guests have included
King Edward VII, Cary Grant and
Elizabeth Taylor.
During your stay in London, your
time is your own to do as you please
were sure youll want to see the
sights and visit Buckingham Palace,
Big Ben and the Tower of London.
And well also treat you to
afternoon tea at the exclusive Mews
of Mayfair, just off Bond Street,
Londons premier shopping parade,
as well as an evening out at a theatre
show of your choice in the capitals
glamorous West End.
Treasure Houses
After a breathtaking few days in
London, its time for a trip to the
www.fairmont.com/savoy-london
www.treasurehouses.co.uk
www.classicbritishhotels.com
18 discoverbritainmag.com
FREE TRAVEL
ur five-star, one-week
holiday for two will be
the trip of a lifetime as
our winners visit many of Britains
most iconic landmarks and receive
celebrity-style red-carpet treatment
along the way.
Your fantastic holiday will start the
moment you leave home because our
prize includes the cost of your travel
to London whether you live 10 or
10,000 miles away from Britains
attraction-packed capital city.
Free
travel 2 nights at The Savoy West End tickets Afternoon tea Free entry to stately homes
2 nights at a boutique hotel A chauffeur-driven tour 2 nights in a romantic cottage 1 night at The Sloane Club
How to enter
ENTRY FORM
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KEY
TO THE KINGDOM
20 discoverbritainmag.com
discoverbritainmag.com 21
Kent
22 discoverbritainmag.com
discoverbritainmag.com 23
Kent
Below: The
subterranean
tunnel complex
created in 1803
to protect against
invasion by
Napoleon and,
later, where the
miracle of Dunkirk
was masterminded
Bottom: King
Henry IIs
bedchamber at
Dover Castle
ENGLISH HERITAGE/NIGEL WALLACE-ILES; JIM HOLDEN; ALAMY/DENNY ROWLAND; STEVE VIDLER; ISTOCK
www.english-heritage.org.uk
24 discoverbritainmag.com
Made in Britain
Left: William Morris-designed
apple tree embroidery
Below: A portrait of William
Morris, Arts and Crafts
Movement revolutionary
Red House
Post-Oxford, Morris immersed himself in
a group which called itself the Pre-Raphaelite
Brotherhood. Along with architect Philip
Webb, in 1860 he designed a medieval style
red-brick house for himself and his wife,
Pre-Raphaelite model Jane Burden.
Red House in Londons Bexleyheath
represented the cherished ideal: his friends,
Burne-Jones, Dante Gabriel Rossetti and
Charles Faulkner converged on the property.
They collectively decorated stained-glass
windows, and created simple Arts and Crafts
furniture and embroideries, the latter finding
its apotheosis in 12 large hangings, designed
by Morris and made by Jane, that depicted
Illustrious Women from Chaucer.
The collectives cottage industry was soon
formalised into a decorative business and
its radical founder members, Burne-Jones,
Ford Madox Brown and Dante Gabriel
Rossetti, would revolutionise art and design
in the Victorian age. The studio, known as
26 discoverbritainmag.com
Kelmscott Manor
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WHATEVER THE SEASON, THE ROYAL GARDEN HOTEL IS
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THE LONDON WAY OF LIFE.
LONDON
PAGES
London
The
Treasures of
Kensington
Palace
Nancy Alsop meets Deirdre Murphy, senior
curator at Kensington Palace, to tour the
home of King George I, Queen Victoria,
Princess Diana and now the Duke and
Duchess of Cambridge
30 discoverbritainmag.com
Slug
discoverbritainmag.com 31
London
32 discoverbritainmag.com
discoverbritainmag.com 33
London
Below: The young Queen Victoria descends the
Kings Staircase, accompanied (behind) by her
controlling mother, the Duchess of Kent, with
whom she lived at Kensington Palace
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britain1-4 30/1/09 14:53 Page 1
Jane Austen
The Dancing Years
A DAY TO REMEMBER
D I S C OV E R O N E O F E N G L A N D S M O S T
B E AU T I F U L A N D H I S T O R IC C A S T L E S
Visit-Britain-99x129-V3.indd 1
16/12/2014 16:13
London
rules, explains Murphy. The exhibition
looks at ideas around diplomatic dressing.
So, for example, this dress was worn by
the Queen on a visit to Pakistan, and it is
green and white to reflect the colours of
the Pakistani flag.
We move through to the exotic fancy dress
donned by film star-esque Princess Margaret
through to the 1980s extreme silhouettes
favoured by Princess Diana, complete with
photographs of her, bouffant hairdo and all.
Hidden treasures
But while the stars of the show twinkle on
public display downstairs, it is upstairs, in
36 discoverbritainmag.com
O
NO UT
W!
the pice de rsistance, a uniform worn by
Queen Victorias Lord-in-Waiting, whose
story is heartbreakingly poignant.
It was worn by Lord Boston and he
was required, when he got this ceremonial
post, to buy a royal household uniform.
You can tell its this, because its got red
cuffs and a red collar.
The uniforms were codified from
the early 19th century; the amount
and configuration of the gold and silver
showed who you were. So in the 19th
century, you would be able to walk into
a room and say, Im going to talk to
him, hes definitely an influential person
NEW LONDON
2016 GUIDE
164 PAGES PACKED WITH HUNDREDS OF MUST-VISIT DESTINATIONS AND INSPIRING IDEAS
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Go behind the scenes at
Buckingham Palace and
Hampton Court
164 S
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discoverbritainmag.com37
37
London
ALICIA POLLETT
London
Portobello Gold
Pendle Harte wanders Portobello Road, the street made famous by the film
Notting Hill, and samples the crme de la crme of the vibrant market and stylish shops
40 discoverbritainmag.com
discoverbritainmag.com 41
London
Portobello today:
a walking guide
If youre coming from Notting Hill Gate tube
station, it makes sense to start a Portobello
ramble with a fortifying ale at the Sun in
Splendour pub. This is one of the streets
oldest hostelries, featuring on maps dating
back to 1850. Its window seats make a good
spot for people watching, especially on
Saturdays when the market is at its busiest,
and increasingly Fridays too.
Heading north, dont miss the blue plaque
that marks novelist and political essayist
George Orwells first London home at 22
Portobello Road. These small cottages are
now brightly painted and desirable but
Orwell lived in poverty here in 1927,
before anybody had painted the outside
of their house pink.
Beyond the junction of Chepstow Villas
is where the antiques world begins. Alices
Antiques at number 86 has distinctive red
signage that has appeared in many films,
including The Italian Job in 1969 and, more
recently, Paddington in 2014. Portobello
Road became known for its antiques in
the 1950s and the stalls and labyrinthine
arcades are very much still in evidence,
though some have fallen victim to property
developers and chain stores. Along this
stretch youll also see the Portobello Gold
pub, known for its oysters and live music
(and infamously the place where Bill Clinton
left without paying in 2000).
Cross Westbourne Grove and the antiques
stalls continue, selling everything from
Victorian dolls to silverware to crockery
do arrive early on a Saturday if you want
the best pickings. Note the entrance to
Vernon Yard, named after Admiral Lord
Vernon who, in 1739, took the Spanish port
of Porto Belo in the Gulf of Mexico, causing
the Victory of Portobello to be celebrated
throughout Britain. Around this time, a farm
in Notting Hill was renamed Portobello
Farm, giving the area its name.
Pass the American Hummingbird Bakery
(credited with bringing the cupcake to the
UK) and step in the Portobello Star, a site
that has been a pub since 1740. Its now
home to Portobello Roads own-label gin and
the Ginstitute, where you can discover the
history of Londons finest spirit, and create
your own blend by mixing a concoction of
distilled botanicals. And near the corner of
Clockwise from left: Alices Antiques; scenes
and displays from Portobello Road
42 discoverbritainmag.com
discoverbritainmag.com 43
44 discoverbritainmag.com
London
m a rt i n r a n d a l l t r av e l
Grand designs,
circa 1598.
5085
ABTA No.Y6050
A country house is much more than a house: great architecture, ne furniture, works of art,
glorious gardens, an ideal backdrop for music.
Special arrangements are a feature of all our tours. They range from a private visit of the state
apartments of Windsor Castle, to an evening concert in the Chapelle Royale of Versailles, to a
stay in an 18th-century Scottish country house which remains a private home.
Houses of Parliament
parliament.uk/visiting
020 7219 4114
03/12/2014 16:29:58
London
At home
with
Holmes
With the return of the BBCs
Sherlock to our screens in January,
Nicola Rayner dons deerstalker
and magnifying glass to follow
the trail to Londons Sherlock
Holmes Museum
46 discoverbritainmag.com
discoverbritainmag.com 47
London
221B Baker
Street did not
exist in 1887
48 discoverbritainmag.com
www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk
ALAMY/MAURICE CROOKS; JOHN KELLERMAN; STEVE VIDLER; THE SHERLOCK HOLMES MUSEUM
The Insider
Brenda Cook is a woman with
the inside scoop. She tours the UK
and asks did you know?
50 discoverbritainmag.com
London
LIFES A BEACH
Edinburgh tops every must-see list for first-time visitors
to Britain and, consequently, the city is perennially
abuzz with tourists keen to see its many historic
treasures. But did you know that Scotland also abounds
with many spots where you can get away from it all?
More specifically, its wealth of deserted, picture
postcard-worthy beach hideaways prove you dont need
to schlep all the way to the Maldives for your hit of white
sand and turquoise waters. The Outer Hebrides have a
population of just 26,000 people and, as such, their
resplendent jewel, Luskentyre Sands, on the west coast of
the Isle of Harris is almost always empty (the nearest road
is some two miles away, after all).
www.visitscotland.com
discoverbritainmag.com 51
The Insider
The Royal Academy of Music in Marylebone is the UKs oldest conservatoire. But did you know
that, as well as chancing to hear beautiful phrases of classical music as you wander by, it also houses
its own museum? Here, visitors can explore unique instruments, manuscripts and art, and discover
the behind-the-scenes stories. Clap eyes on the Viotti ex-Bruce 1709 violin by Antonio Stradivari,
once played to Marie Antoinette, and Gilbert and Sullivans original score for The Mikado, or learn
how the academys alumni have influenced musical development for nearly 200 years. The museum
also holds free public musical and lecture events, museum tours, and offers childrens trails.
www.ram.ac.uk/museum
52 discoverbritainmag.com
ORDER!
Londons multi-layered history is all part of the charm
of the city, even if parts of it continue to exist only as
museum pieces. But did you know you can step back in
time to a working environment courtesy of the ancient
Inns of Court? The Inner and Middle Temple, Lincolns
Inn, and Grays Inn are all far less crowded than many of
the citys other attractions, yet tourists can freely wander
through the outdoor areas on weekdays and observe
barristers at work. Dont neglect to visit Temple Church
while youre there, built by the Knights Templar in the
12th century.
www.templechurch.com
POTTY
ABOUT POTS
EVERYDAY
HEROES
St Pauls Cathedral features on every
tourist trail. But did you know a
short walk north of Sir Christopher
Wrens awe-inspiring masterpiece,
you can escape the crowds and find
a spot for solace and reflection?
Postmans Park, so-called because
lunching postmen from the nearby
former General Post Office favoured
it for their break, is a little-known
gem. It opened in 1880 on burial
ground once belonging to the St
Botolphs Aldersgate church and
later incorporating the neighbouring
burial grounds of Christ Church
Greyfriars and St Leonard, Foster
Lane. The most moving aspect of the
park is the Watts Memorial to Heroic
Self-Sacrifice, which commemorates
54 men, women and children who
lost their lives while attempting to
save another.
www.cityoflondon.gov.uk
discoverbritainmag.com 53
London
54 discoverbritainmag.com
Dreaming spires
ILLUSTRATION BY LISA HELLIER; CORBIS/JASON HAWKES
but the best known among their number are united in one
crucial detail: each is richly historic and
of infinite interest to the architectural enthusiast.
Happily, the most remarkable are open to the public,
meaning that the curious can spend a rewarding couple
of days wandering about, adopting a donnish air or simply
observing the brightest and best in their natural habitat. If
youve only got time to visit a small selection of colleges,
discoverbritainmag.com 55
Oxford
St Johns College
Begin a meander around Oxford on St Giles, the citys
busiest main road and home to the historic Martyrs
Memorial, commemorating the deaths of the heretic
Protestants Hugh Latimer, Nicholas Ridley and Thomas
Cranmer. Nearby is St Johns College, which was founded
in 1555 by the merchant Sir Thomas White. It is the
universitys wealthiest college, thanks to some canny
investment in property in the 19th century a detail
that gave rise to the probably apocryphal story that you
can walk from St Johns, Oxford to St Johns, Cambridge
entirely on land owned by one or other of the colleges.
The main historic interest in the college lies in the
oldest 16th century parts of the building: namely the front
quad, the chapel and the striking Italian Renaissancestyled Canterbury Quad, which contains the colleges
library and an impressive selection of literature by some
of its distinguished alumni. These include the poets Philip
Larkin and Robert Graves and the novelist Kingsley
Amis. (Others ranking among that notable number are
Tony Blair and the classicist AE Housman). Entry to the
college is free of charge and visitors are welcome from
1pm until dusk (or 5pm in summer) except on Christmas
and Boxing Day and during special functions.
56 discoverbritainmag.com
Merton College
discoverbritainmag.com 57
SCOTLAND
British Isles
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Oxford
Christ Church
Top: Tom Tower, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, sits at the entrance
to Christ Church, which was so named in 1546 by King Henry VIII
Bottom: Students dine in splendour at the Great Hall, Christ Church
discoverbritainmag.com 59
Oxford
Right: Balliol College, founded in 1263, which has produced three
Prime Ministers: Edward Heath, Harold Macmillan and HH Asquith
Below: The front quad and gate tower at Balliol College
Balliol College
OXFORD
HIGHLIGHTS
Visit
No visit to the city is complete
without heading to the outstanding
Ashmolean museum (www.
ashmolean.org), founded in
1683 and now, after a substantial
renovation, firmly established in the
top level of world-class collections.
The great university buildings of
the Sheldonian Theatre and the
Bodleian are well worth seeing
60 discoverbritainmag.com
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HOME
The
Rural paradise
Country looks
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Dreaming of spring
Finishing touches
INFORMAL
ELEGANCE
Decorating techniques to create a relaxed ambience
ALAMY/ ANDREI NEKRASSOV; OXFORD PICTURE LIBRARY
Sleep
For an unforgettably luxurious
experience, Raymond Blancs
celebrated two Michelin-starred
restaurant and hotel Le Manoir
aux QuatSaisons (right; www.
manoir.com) has to be top of any
sybarites list. In the centre of town,
the Malmaison hotel presents an
ingenious conversion of the citys
former prison (www.malmaison.
com), while the historic Old
Parsonage (www.oldparsonagehotel.co.uk) was once, albeit
briefly, home to Oscar Wilde.
21/12/2015 15:56
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1 THE ENGLISH HOME
Oxford
Magdalen College
If you walk down the High Street, past the imposing Exam
Schools, you will eventually reach what is surely Oxfords
most beautiful college: Magdalen. Pronounced maud-lin,
it has a deceptively tranquil atmosphere engendered by
the spacious grounds, including the sequestered Addisons
Walk, which former Magdalen fellow CS Lewis would
frequent with his friend JRR Tolkien.
However, any college whose alumni includes Cardinal
Thomas Wolsey, Oscar Wilde, John Betjeman and the
current Chancellor, George Osborne, is not merely the
academic equivalent of a pretty face. Its results testify to
its intellectual prowess; it perennially vies with Merton to
top the Norrington Table. At 5 per visit, its well worth it
62 discoverbritainmag.com
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English eccentrics
He rode a bear
into a dinner
party, which
subsequently bit
him and then
killed a servant
discoverbritainmag.com 65
Games
66 discoverbritainmag.com
THE ARCHITECTS
WHO BUILT
BRITAIN
Alexander Larman considers those great British
architects through history whose legacies have
come to define the countrys built heritage
68 discoverbritainmag.com
Arguably Englands
greatest architect, Wren was
also among the first to practise
professionally. After studying at Oxford,
where he was later appointed professor
of astronomy, Wren became a founding
member of the Royal Society and was
invited to redesign St Pauls Cathedral (left)
after the Great Fire destroyed the original.
The process took over 30 years, with the
cathedral finally rebuilt and reopened in
1697, still in Wrens lifetime. Its Italianate
influences divided commentators, with
one remarking disdainfully on its air of
Popery and un-English quality.
This was, of course, Wrens whole idea.
Working within the English Baroque style
and at the then huge cost of 1.1 million, he
created a strikingly unusual building
that could stand comparison with other
great ecclesiastical structures, such as
St Peters Basilica in Rome.
Wren designed many other notable
buildings, including the Sheldonian Theatre
in Oxford, but is perhaps most associated
with the 51 other London churches he
rebuilt after the Great Fire, of which 23 still
exist, albeit often in altered form. When he
died in 1723, he knew he had inspired
a generation of architects; perhaps less
clear was just how many future generations
would deem him the greatest of all time.
discoverbritainmag.com 69
HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/MILES WILLIS; ALAMY/CLASSIC IMAGE; INTERFOTO; ALEX SEGRE; WORLD HISTORY ARCHIVE
Christopher
Wren
(1632 1723)
Most architects of note have held a burning desire to design buildings for
as long as they can remember. Vanbrugh, conversely, began his career as
a successful playwright, writing such much-loved comedies as The
Relapse and The Provokd Wife. It is possible to draw parallels between
his ingenious construction of plot and what would become an equally, if
not more, successful career in architecture, which he began as a protg
to the great Nicholas Hawksmoor at the end of the 17th century.
His two most famous buildings, Castle Howard and Blenheim
Palace (above), both occupy an exalted position in the English
imagination; the first served as both model and filming location
for Brideshead Revisited, while the second dominates the
Cotswold town of Woodstock. While the construction of Castle
Howard was trouble-free, with its European ornamentation
and use of Corinthian columns attracting much praise, he fell
out with the wife of his patron, the Duke of Marlborough, and
was dismissed from the project, leaving it to be completed by
Hawksmoor. His only other major building, Seaton Delaval Hall,
was acquired by the National Trust in 2009.
70 discoverbritainmag.com
www.seeitdoitsunderland.co.uk
/seeitdoitsunderland
@SeeitDoitSund
WWW.KELMSCOTTMANOR.ORG.UK
Kelmscott Manor is owned by the Society of Antiquaries of London (registered charity 207237).
Address: Kelmscott Manor, Kelmscott, Lechlade GL7 3HJ | Tel: 01367 252486 | Email: admin@sal.org.uk
Web: www.kelmscottmanor.org.uk | Twitter: @KelmscottManor
ARCAID IMAGES/ALAMY
T C I
9 - 18 J, 2016
T S H E
1 - 10 J, 2016
D E A
8 - 16 J, 2016
T M M E
29 J - 6 A, 2016
Castle Howard
Ightham Mote
Discover Britain Travel Oers, c/o Discover Europe, Ltd., 95 Adams Street, Keene, NH 03431, USA
or call toll-free (866) 563-7077. You can also visit www.discovereuropeltd.com to request complete trip details.
Please send me complete details of the trip listed below with the free European Travel newsletter.
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YORKSHIRE
76 discoverbritainmag.com
dslkjf
NORTHERN
SOUL
It is the landscape that abounds with natural wonders and
wild moorland. Nancy Alsop roams the county that raised the
Bront sisters to channel the spirit of Heathcliff and Cathy
discoverbritainmag.com 77
DO
HAWORTH
PARSONAGE
The Bront sisters Charlotte, Emily and
Anne were three of the most astonishing 19th
century contributors to the English literary
canon. Charlotte and Emily, in particular,
penned extraordinary Gothic tales of
high drama and visceral passions
through the pages of Jane Eyre and
Wuthering Heights. Its hard to
reconcile these subversives, whose
stories highlighted the social
injustice and religious hypocrisy
of the time to outraged reviews,
with the women who, from
1820, lived quietly at Haworth
Parsonage, in the then-industrial
village on the edge of the Pennine
moors in West Yorkshire, and went
on to die young. Guests can visit
the parsonage where they wrote
their novels, published under the
pseudonyms Currer, Ellis and
Acton Bell, and later explore
the quaint village itself, as well
as the surrounding dramatic
moors, upon which it takes
no imaginative leap to conjure
a wild Heathcliff roaming.
www.bronte.org.uk
WENTWORTH CASTLE
Laying claim to the only Grade I-listed landscape in South
Yorkshire, the story of Wentworth Castle is as fascinating as its
Baroque architecture. It all started when, in 1695, the 2nd Earl
of Strafford died without a son. The heir expectant, Thomas
Wentworth, was disappointed when the familys landed estate,
Wentworth Woodhouse, went to a cousin, Thomas Watson.
Undeterred, Wentworth soldiered on in the diplomatic service of
King William III and Queen Anne and when, in 1708, he bought
up nearby Stainborough Hall and transformed it into a mock
castle in the Baroque style, Anne duly created a new title for
him: the first Earl of Strafford of the second creation. Do note the
Capability Brown gardens and the addition of a Palladian wing.
www.wentworthcastle.org
78 discoverbritainmag.com
Yorkshire
CASTLE HOWARD
The John Vanbrugh design for Castle Howard (not, in fact, technically
a castle, but built on the site of a former fortress) was conceived in 1699,
commissioned by the 3rd Earl of Carlisle. It would take a further 100
years and the lifespan of three earls to complete. Lived in ever since by
the Howard family, barring a brief interlude as a girls school in World War
II, it has been open to the public since 1952. But it was post 1981 that its
popularity surged, after it was used as the eponymous Brideshead, seat
of the Marchmain family, in the Granada Television adaptation of Evelyn
Waughs Brideshead Revisited. Do ensure a visit to the 18th century chapel
made much of by Waugh which was, curiously, intended as a dining
room originally. And finally, do, upon leaving, utter the words: I had been
there before; I knew all about it in your best Jeremy Irons gravelly tones.
WHITBY ABBEY
Whitby, on the north-east coast of Yorkshire,
is home to one of the most dramatic sights in the
county: that of the ruins of Whitby Abbey, founded
in AD 657, and at the time one of the most significant
monasteries in the Anglo-Saxon world. Built by
King Oswy of Northumbria, it was ruled by Abbess
Hilda, an impressive woman who presided over
men and women alike and whose wisdom was
often sought by royalty. Standing above the seaside
town, the energetic can climb the 199 steps from the
town to the ruin, where its easy to see how Bram
Stoker gained inspiration for Dracula, his Gothic
tale, from both the site and the wider Whitby.
www.english-heritage.org.uk
discoverbritainmag.com 79
ALAMY/LOOP IMAGES LTD; BALL MIWAKO; LISE PEARSON; FUNKYFOOD LONDON/PAUL WILLIAMS;
GL ARCHIVE; VISITENGLAND/WENTWORTH CASTLE GARDENS; MIKE KIPLING PHOTOGRAPHY
www.castlehoward.co.uk
Est. 1979
www.barkaparka.com
Barka Parka Bean Beds, 4 Bath Road, Ashcott , Somerset TA7 9QU
PROUDLY MADE IN ENGLAND
The English Heritage Trust is a charity, no. 1140351, and a company, no. 07447221, registered in England.
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GREAT
OUTDOORS
YORKSHIRE DALES
NATIONAL PARK
Rivers, moorlands, waterfalls, bridleways, limestone
pavements, ancient villages and dry-stone walls the
Yorkshire Dales National Park in the north-western
corner of the county offers hikers, strollers, cyclists and
climbers some 680 square miles of ravishing scenery
and wildlife (think rare breeds of sheep and butterflies).
Do endeavour to catch a glimpse of the limestone cliffs
at Malham Cove (right) and the fascinating formations
at Brimham Rocks. Meanwhile, for a more leisurely
exploration, hop on a steam train across the Dales
(featured in screen adaptations of both Harry Potter
and The Railway Children).
www.yorkshiredales.org.uk
SWINTON
PARK
SLEEP
discoverbritainmag.com 81
Yorkshire
www.bluechipholidays.co.uk/north-yorkshire/whitby/the-lake-house
www.middlethorpe.com
VISIT
Grand Victorian faades, cobbled streets, renovated
arcades and riverside walks Leeds mainly
pedestrianised city centre makes it a joy to wander.
For a hit of culture, dont miss the Leeds City Art
Gallery (its collection includes work by JMW Turner,
John Constable and Barbara Hepworth). Meanwhile
shoppers will be rewarded by the Corn Exchange,
a shopping-centre housed in a 1864 Grade I-listed
building and the historic Victoria Quarter luxury
shopping arcade (left). Known as the Knightsbridge
of the North, Leeds has gone from down-at-heel
mill town to a picture of 21st century prosperity,
complete with skyscrapers, waterfront luxury
developments and a Harvey Nichols.
www.visitleeds.co.uk
82 discoverbritainmag.com
VISITENGLAND/THOMAS HEATON
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*Price is per person per night. Minimum of two people sharing a standard double room
*Price is per person per night. Minimum of two people sharing a standard double room
www.wreaheadhall.co.uk
www.wreaheadhall.co.uk
08/12/2015 08:17
08/12/2015 08:17
Yorkshire
STAITHES
AND RAVENSCAR
With higgledy-piggledy streets and quaint
cottages galore, Staithes is an ideal base for
exploring the coastal paths and cliffs along
the Cleveland Way while getting a hit
of picturesque, quintessential Yorkshire.
Meanwhile, in the continuing pursuit of
old-world charm, drive down the coastline
to Ravenscar, a would-be upmarket tourist
resort that never quite was. Despite
19th century plans for it to be so, it was
ultimately left unfinished. These days, it is
under the care of the National Trust, which
has a visitors centre for more information.
www.staithes-town.info
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/yorkshire-coast
HARROGATE
This civilised Victorian spa town attracts tourists keen for some repose
amidst genteel surrounds. There is an annual flower show; the Harlow Carr
Botanical Gardens are amongst the most beautiful in the country; and there
is a Royal Pump Room, built in 1842 (now a museum), where visitors can
learn about the towns healing waters and sulphurous springs. It has literary
links too; Agatha Christie escaped her broken marriage here in 1926, and
Charles Dickens called it the queerest place, with the strangest people in it,
leading the oddest lives of dancing, newspaper reading and dining. Make
sure you go to Bettys Caf Tea Room and try a famous Fat Rascal scone.
www.visitharrogate.co.uk
84 discoverbritainmag.com
YORK
PROMOTION
discoverbritainmag.com 85
Scotland
86 discoverbritainmag.com
Xxx
WHISKY
business
discoverbritainmag.com 87
Scotland
88 discoverbritainmag.com
Famous names
From Dalmore its a short drive north along
the A9 to Glenmorangie, one of whiskys
most famous names thanks to its elegant,
honeyed drams. There are three tours to
try Original, Signet and Heritage and its
possible to stay at Glenmorangie House, a
beautiful six-bedroom property with cosy
rooms, a walled kitchen garden and even a
private beach. Dont get too comfortable,
though, as your next stop is Balblair
distillery, just a few miles west.
Established in 1790, Balblair is unique
among Scottish distilleries in that it only
releases single-vintage bottlings. Most
Left to right: The Lagavulin Distillery on Islay; Glenfinnan in the Lochaber area of the
Highlands; Strathisla Distillery, built in 1786 on Speyside, is one of the oldest in Scotland
Previous page: Glencoe, looking towards Rannoch Moor; (inset) Glenmorangie barrels
Classic tastes
Our first stop in Speyside is Glenfiddich,
one of the most popular Scotch whiskies
on the planet. The standard bottling, the
12-year-old, is a classic of the region:
light, floral and grassy, but if you visit the
distillery youll have the chance to blend
your own version of the 15-year-old and to
take a sample of your blend home with you.
Next up is the Macallan, a sherried
whisky prized among aficionados and
Island-hopping
Hug the coastal road south until you reach
Oban, with some stunning views along
the way. Oban Distillery is in the centre of
town, and holds child-friendly flavourfinding tours, as well as tours for adults
with plenty of drams to share, including
the ever-popular 14-year-old, with its rich
aromas of honey, heather and smoke. A
short walk from the distillery is the ferry
port, if you wish to do some island-hopping.
discoverbritainmag.com 89
Scotland
90 discoverbritainmag.com
Breathtaking landscapes
To reach Islay, you can catch a ferry from
Kennacraig in Campbeltown or fly direct
from Glasgow. Islay malts are hard-hitting
and peaty, with robust notes of tar and
smoked fish. If youre hungry, head to
Ardbegs Old Kiln Caf for some delicious
home-cooked food when I last visited,
they served bread made with leftover grain
that had Ardbegs trademark smokiness.
Lagavulin is just a 20-minute stroll away,
and the 16-year-old, with its smoky, tarry
aroma, has won over many whisky fans,
including Johnny Depp. Head to nearby
Laphroaig and you can even have a go
at peat-cutting you get a dram at the
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Xxx
1
King of
the Castle
Jemima Coxshaw goes in search
of fortresses big and small, where
you can slumber like royalty
92 discoverbritainmag.com
www.boveycastle.com
www.amberleycastle.co.uk
Bovey Castle
Devon
Amberley Castle
West Sussex
Xxx
3 Cawood Castle
4 Woodsford Castle
5 Hever Castle
North Yorkshire
Dorset
Kent
www.landmarktrust.org.uk
www.landmarktrust.org.uk
www.hevercastle.co.uk
discoverbritainmag.com 93
SCOTLAND FARM
At Scotland Farm you will check in as guests but check out as friends. In the
heart of Jane Austin country this little gem of a B&B offers a treat like no
other. On the working farm you will be welcomed as part of the family and
Jessica and her friendly dogs will be more than happy to show you how its
all done. The 3 luxury King size rooms (all ensuite with wifi) are fitted out
with Jessicas famous Southdown Duvets range of wool quilts, pillows and
mattress toppers ensuring a glorious healthy nights sleep. During the day
you can meet the sheep who provide the wool for this exceptional bedding,
walk among the Southdown flock grazing in the 100 acres of green fields,
soak up stunning views of the Southdown National Park and enjoy Jessicas
home cooked breakfast of locally sourced produce, Scotland Farm eggs
and lamb sausages, home made preserves and home grown vegetables. Ask
Jessica about Scotland Farm and she will laugh saying its where the inmates
run the asylum but she is hugely proud of her 100% excellent trip advisor
ratings.
Keep a look out for a fantastic combination of accommodation and
bedding offers throughout 2016 or call Jessica for more details
private lounge, charming double bedroom, oak panelled floors, separate full
bathroom with bath and overhead shower and kitchen facilities.
There is a dedicated guest area to relax in with a lounge and a delightful
conservatory, where in an evening you can rest, watch the birds, take in the
stunning views, maybe have a drink in the Nook Bar or on a morning watch
the sun rise as you breakfast.
Visitors can also have complimentary use of the garden hot tub with
stunning views across Northumberland and Hadrians Wall Country.
Bush Nook, Upper Denton, Gilsland, Cumbria, CA8 7AF
Email: info@bushnook.co.uk | Tel: +44 (0)1697747194
www.bushnook.co.uk
The perfect
Cornish holiday destina
Step back in time in this extraordinary Tudor castle on the edge of the
Cotswolds. This hotel offers the perfect luxurious retreat combining
500-year-old architecture with sumptuous facilities. Thornbury Castle
is a place to de-stress take a stroll around the manicured lawns and
landscaped grounds, book a massage in your own bedchamber and relax
over a delicious meal in our exclusive 2 rosette restaurant. Each of the 26
bedchambers is unique, most with coronet or four-poster beds, and the
bathrooms are both opulent and well-appointed.
Thornbury, South Gloucestershire BS35 1HH
Email: reception@ thornburycastle.co.uk | Tel: +44 (0)1454 281182
www.thornburycastle.co.uk
beauty treatments and health club that will help relax your mind and revive
your spirit.
Ruthin Castle Hotel & Spa is a royal gem just waiting to be explored.
Legendary Ruthin Castle has been welcoming guests including Kings &
Queens and noted members of society for several hundred years and today,
that long history of delivering warm hospitality and comfort to guests continues,
having received a Visit Wales Gold Award which rewards outstanding quality,
exceptional comfort and hospitality.
Castle Street, Ruthin LL15 2NU, North Wales, UK
Email: reservations@ruthincastle.co.uk | Tel: +44 (0)1824 702664
www.ruthincastle.co.uk
PREORD
5th F ER
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PREORD
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Quiz
Crossword no 189
SAY WHAT?
Can you identify which great Briton uttered these
words of wisdom?
Across
1 A race between boats each with a
single pair of oars (6)
5 Humorous verse form popularised
by 13 down (8)
9 York-based architect who did
work at Buxton Crescent and
Harewood House (4,4)
10 Hill House, Palladian villa on
the River Thames between Richmond
and Twickenham (6)
11 Nickname of Sir Henry Percy
(1364 1403) (7)
12 Staffordshire market town or
Welsh national emblem (4)
14 Shoreham-by-Sea is at the mouth
of this river (4)
15 Container for Earl Grey,
perhaps (3,5)
18 Leader of the Peasants Revolt
of 1381 (3,5)
19 Game played on horseback (4)
21 River that flows through Carlisle (4)
23 Historic market town in Surrey,
at the foot of the North Downs (7)
25 River that runs through Worcester
and Gloucester (6)
26 Hampshire village associated with
renowned naturalist Gilbert White (8)
27 Foliage (8)
Down
2 A shoe with a thick wooden sole (4)
3 Tourist centre in the New Forest (9)
4 A rhythmical song sung by sailors
while working (6)
5 Fictional detective created by
Dorothy L Sayers (4,5,6)
6 A structure erected to commemorate
persons or events (8)
7 Of or relating to the countryside (5)
8 Area of West Yorkshire, including
the towns of Sowerby Bridge and
Hebden Bridge (10)
13 19th century artist and
humorist, author of The Owl
and the Pussy Cat (6,4)
16 Sailing resort at the mouth of the
River Torridge in North Devon (9)
17 Duke reputedly put to death in 1478
in a butt of Malmsey (8)
20 Language of the Celts (6)
22 Relationship of Queen Victoria
to her predecessor William IV (5)
24 Sewell, the author of
Black Beauty (4)
Visit discoverbritainmag.com for answers
Agony aunt
When drinking tea, never
ever raise your little finger.
It is not, as the misguided
believe, elegant
Dear Abashed,
Banish your bashfulness and ditch your
discomfort. The best way to circumnavigate
embarrassment is to realise that you need
not refer to or make a song and dance about
the call of nature. If you slip off without
fuss, the chances are that little fuss will
be made in return. However, there are
certain rules amid polite society. Loo
is the accepted term, while also tolerable
are lavatory, ladies or gents (the
latter two only if you are out in public
never in someones home). Toilet is
best avoided, certainly amongst the upper
crust, but worse still are coy weasel words:
never refer to the little girls room,
conveniences or gulp the bog.
Dear Confused,
The first rule of office life is to remember
who is boss. And as your experience has
shown you, blurring the boundaries can
make it unnecessarily hard for all. The
good news is that it sounds like you have
an overall happy working life, and by no
means do I suggest that one should behave
like an automaton in the workplace. There
is plenty of room for personal pleasantries.
Do, for example, ask after her children,
or whether she enjoyed her holiday. But do
not pry or push for information. Remember,
even if she overshares, its her prerogative
to resume professional distance at will,
so make sure you do not tell her details
of your life that you would usually only
share with good friends. Remain polite,
professional and keep the boundaries clear.
And when you have a work crisis, do your
best to solve it before bothering her. No one
prefers a problem to a solution.
Dear Miss Manners,
To dunk, or not to dunk,
that is the question
Yours, Soggy Digestive fan
Dear Soggy Digestive fan,
If, as I presume, you are talking about
the habit of submerging biscuits in your
afternoon tea, the answer is emphatically
not to dunk if you are in anything other
than a completely informal setting (no
one will judge you for dipping a Rich Tea
in your Earl Grey in the comfort of your
sitting room). But Im glad you ask, because
I get a lot of letters about the etiquette
surrounding the serving and drinking of
tea. Lets clear some of them up. If you are
serving tea to a group, opt for loose leaf
Modern
manners
Miss Manners answers your
questions of etiquette
and do make a pot alongside a second pot
of hot water (no one likes over-brewed tea).
Do nominate either yourself or someone
else to be mother and pour the tea it
avoids people either hanging back or being
overbearing. Hand each cup out as you
go, rather than pouring several and then
dispensing them to the group. Stir with the
spoon provided, but do not clink it against
the cup. Ensure you hold your cup by the
handle (leaving the saucer on the table) and
never ever raise your little finger. It is not,
as the misguided believe, elegant.
Dear Miss Manners,
When nature calls, how should one
refer to the bathroom (which always
seems such an odd term to me, since
the convenience one is referring to
usually does not contain a bath)?
Yours, Abashed
ANSWERS TO SAY WHAT? A QUEEN ELIZABETH I B CHARLES DARWIN C JANE AUSTEN D SIR THOMAS MORE E ERNEST SHACKLETON
98 discoverbritainmag.com
TAILOR-MADE PRIVATE
TOURS FOR THE DISCERNING
www.bhctours.co.uk | info@bhctours.co.uk | +44 (0)1296 620173