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Disclaimer: I'm not responsible for anything. You can kill yourself with
the circuits shown here.
"Flyback" transformers (or line output transformers) are high
frequency ferrite-cored transformers, used to generate high voltage
needed to operate a Cathode-Ray Tube (CRT) device (such as TV,
monitor...). This voltage can be anything from few kV to few tens of kV
(color TV ~25kV; B/W TV ~15kV usually). Operating frequency is
around 16kHz in TVs, but the flyback can be operated anywhere from
several kHz to several tens of kHz.
In order to get some output from the flyback transformer you need a
fairly powerful high frequency driver circuit. I'll give you a few
examples of such circuits.
Type [1] is the older AC unrectified type. This one isn't usually good
for anything over 30kV, because it will flash over soon (and also
because it has usually low number of turns on its secondary winding
and thus it is difficult to get high voltages out of it). However it is
often suitable for higher power outputs than the other types. Found in
old TVs.
Type [2] is probably the best one. Its secondary winding is divided into
sections, which are separated by diodes, so there's just little AC
voltage present, which makes insulating it easier, so it can output
much more voltage than type [1] (voltages of 60kV and more are
often possible). Found in newer TVs.
Type[3] is the same as [2] except it has high voltage capacitor on its
This circuit works best with the newer type potted "diode-split"
flybacks. It can provide quite high output voltage (50kV from diodesplit transformer is not unusual). This driver is not too efficient above
around 100W at which the switching transistor starts getting very hot.
If you want higher output power I suggest the second driver.
The switching transistor (IRFP250) needs a small heat-sink. Wind a
primary windong of 12 turns of insulated wire around the exposed
part of the ferrite core.
Turn the "duty cycle" pot down, and set the "frequency" pot to
greatest resistance (lowest frequency). Turn up the duty cycle until
you can just hear a high-frequency sound. Make some sparks with the
flyback (they will be quite small at this point) so you know the driver
is working.
If the flyback has built-in diode (the newer "potted" type), try to
reverse polarity of primary winding and see if the sparks are longer. If
not, reverse it back.
Turn up the frequency until you just can't hear it (this is usually the
best frequency to run your flyback at, but you can experiment). Now
you can try slowly increasing the duty cycle (increasing output
power), watch the transistor so it doesn't get very hot.
If you now can get a nice purple arc from the flyback, that can be
drawn to few cm, your driver is working well. If not, something is
probably fried (most likely the flyback itself).
Some pictures of my driver:
The driver
Inside
Short arc
Long arc
"spraying" (corona)
As you can see the diagram below, does not get much easier than this!
CAUTION: Read the document: Safety Guidelines for High Voltage and / or
equipment for power line and shoot the circuit!
Read in its entirety!
flyback obtain solutions with high voltage secondary winding. Primary may be
left intact if it is known to be in good condition not short-circuited. A flyback
removed due to failure can be used if the primary were to fail and the primary
turns can be removed without damaging the HV secondary or losing the
secondary connection back! Flyback fail in both directions (primary and
secondary).
CAUTION: Locate the return of the winding tension. It can be a different color
yarn winding low voltage or the output of the flyback portion of the plate in a
different place. You can not use an ohmmeter to locate the return of power Fastforward if the return to a high-voltage multiplier or HV rectifier diodes rectifiers
decline is far greater than the battery voltage used in your meter. However, a
connection with a liquidation infinite resistance to all other terminals may be the
HV return. The flyback HV rectifier or multiplier without a return can be easily
identified by measuring the resistance between the HV output and all other
terminals. The high voltage winding has a resistance of 100s-1000 ohms than a
single dose of digits or less for all other windings.
Wind 10 turn center tapped winding drive and 4 turn centertapped feedback
winding using # 16-20 gauge wire. Make sure that both halves of each coil are
wound in the same direction. A good insulation with duct tape.
Vcc should typically be in the range 12-24 volts in a couple of amps. Oscillating
circuit is scheduled for about a Vcc of 5 V or more. If you do not get the high
voltage, reverse the connections to the transistor bases. Heat sink is
recommended for the transistor. Be aware of the capabilities of your return (B /
W monitor up to 15 KV, color up to 30 KV). You risk destroying the secondary
windings and / or HV rectifier if you get carried away. Running this on 24 volts
will probably cause an internal arc-over in a small flyback, then start again with
more caution and a new flyback.
Actual production depends on the turnover of the flyback you have.
For a typical small B / W TV, monochrome screen or a video terminal, you
should be able to get around 12,000 volts with 12 VDC.
I built one from a dead Mac-Plus flyback from which I removed the coils (dead)
primary.
With a large color television or color monitor flyback, 30,000 V or more will be
made possible with 24 VDC.
The operating frequency is in KHz to 10 KHz range depending seconds of VDC,
the load and the specific flyback.
You can experiment with the speed, resistance values, etc. to optimize
operation and power for your needs.
WARNING: Contact with the output will be painful, but probably not particularly
dangerous due to small (few mA) current availability.
HOWEVER, if you add a high voltage capacitor for charge storage, do not even
think of approaching the HV!
SOLID_STATE_TESLA_COIL
CON PWM
Attention flyback driver circuit produces high voltage capacitor connection
Observe caution + If you connect the high voltage polarity may be large
explosions before running the insured Power Line circuit, protective goggles
It uses a TL494 to switch a MOSFET very rapidly, dumping current into the primary
coil of a TV flyback. The air rapidly heats up when the spark is on, and it cools quickly
when switched off. This causes the air to vibrate, making sound just like a speaker.
I used a Hitachi flyback (about $10 on eBay) but any flyback with an open primary will
work. You can use jumper clips for electrodes (as above), but they will melt eventually.
Tungsten electrodes are much better. You can also use anything else that is conductive
and will tolerate heat, such as chunks of pyrolytic carbon.
Here is Plasmanas original schematic. Replacing the IRF540 with a bigger MOSFET
(such as the FQA16N50) will let you dump more current at higher voltage across the
flyback, making even bigger sparks. Adding a gate driver between the TL494 and the
MOSFET would also likely help.
A good heat sink is critical to keep the MOSFET from melting. I used a large copper
CPU cooler with an integrated fan.
High voltage enthusiasts, who are familiar with the classic NE555 flyback driver, will
notice the foil capacitor across the primary winding, which really makes wonders.
(More on this here.) The output voltage depends on the oscillator frequency (set it to
variable 15-30kHz for output voltage fine-tuning), number of primary turns and on the
resonant capacity. Fewer turns, lower frequency and lower cap values such as 100-330
nF are going to produce over 60 kV out of a DST flyback with ease; more turns, higher
frequency and higher capacity (up to 1 uF) will yield smaller output voltage with more
current. Tune these factors to get the best output which suits for you. Do not forget to
include the gate protection circuit (diode+resistor) on the MOSFET, but if the resonant
mode is not used, omit this. Lastly, use the fifth pin for PWM audio modulation you
are going to need a 0.5-1.5W amplifier for best results. If you are not going to use this,
ground the 100n cap.
When properly tuned, this topology draws between 4 to 8 amps at load, in a supply
voltage range of 18 up to 30 volts, excluding the first example of my driver, which drew
3 amps and had been constructed for low power emphasis in mind.
The thing you see here has an IRFP250N and the oscillator frequency is freely tunable
between 16-30 kHz, giving an output voltage circa 20 to 55 kilovolts DC unloaded (at
full blast, the arc ignition distance was 7.5 cm which might be roughly 55-60kV). That
corona discharge between the high-voltage anode and a concrete wall is also
spectacular..
A note to add: this circuit should never be powered on with no load, if the output
voltage is designed to be over 40 kilovolts. Make a safety spark gap or something if
you let the anode to hiss free-to-air and the primary winding polarity is in incorrect
phasing, the internal diodes of the DST flyback might not survive this (check if theres
no corona/arcing/hissing between the primary and high voltage secondary). Do not use a
computer monitor flyback, they have an internal high voltage capacitor whose bottom
pins will arc over at 30kV and up.