MIG welding is an arc welding process in which a continuous solid wire electrode is fed through a welding

gun and into the weld pool, joining the two base materials together. A shielding gas is also sent through
the welding gun and protects the weld pool from contamination. In fact, MIG stands for "Metal Inert Gas."
The technical name for it is "Gas Metal Arc Welding" (or GMAW), and the slang name for it is "wire
welding."
The MIG process enables the home-hobby, artist, farmer/rancher, motorsports enthusiast or DIY welder to
make most types of fabrication and maintenance/repair welds on material from 24-gauge up to 1/2-in.
thick. In addition to flexibility, many people turn to MIG welding because they've heard that it's an easy
process to learn. Some claim it's "no harder to use than a glue gun." While not quite that simple, it is true
that most people can become competent MIG welders by following some basic advice.

Safety First
Before tackling any welding project, you need to make sure you have the proper safety apparel and that
any potential fire hazards are removed from the welding area. Basic welding safety apparel includes
leather shoes or boots, cuff-less full length pants, a flame-resistant, long sleeve jacket, leather gloves, a
welding helmet, safety glasses and a bandana or "skull cap" to protect the top of your head from sparks
and spatter.
Miller's Arc Armor line of safety apparel offers a wide range of these accessories for everyone from the
occasional hobbyist to the full-time professional welder. Your owners manual contains additional
information about safety apparel and precautions.

Metal Preparation
Unlike Stick and Flux-Cored electrodes, which have higher amounts of special additives, the solid MIG
wire does not combat rust, dirt, oil or other contaminants very well. Use a metal brush or grinder and
clean down to bare metal before striking an arc. Make sure your work clamp connects to clean metal, too;
any electrical impedance will affect wire feeding performance.
To ensure strong welds on thicker metal, bevel the joint to ensure the weld fully penetrates to the base
metal. This is especially important for butt joints.

Both a grinder or a wire brush work well to remove rust and other surface contaminants from the metal prior to welding.

Equipment Preparation

Check your cables: Before striking an arc, check your welding equipment to make sure all of the
cable connections are tight fitting and free of fraying or other damage.

Select electrode polarity: MIG welding requires DC electrode positive, or reverse polarity. The
polarity connections are usually found on the inside of the machine.

Set gas flow: Turn on the shielding gas and set the flow rate to 20 to 25 cubic feet per hour. If you
suspect leaks in your gas hose, apply a soapy water solution and look for bubbles. If you spot a leak,
discard the hose and install a new one.

Check tension. Too much or too little tension on either the drive rolls or the wire spool hub can
lead to poor wire feeding performance. Adjust according to your owner's manual.

Inspect consumables. Remove excess spatter from contact tubes, replace worn contact tips and
liners and discard the wire if it appears rusty.

A thorough check of your power source, gun and gas cylinders is recommended prior to taking on any MIG welding project.

Wire Selection
For steel, there are two common wire types. Use an AWS classification ER70S-3 for all-purpose welding.
Use ER70S-6 wire when more deoxidizers are needed for welding on dirty or rusty steel. As for wire
diameter, .030-in. diameter makes a good all-around choice for welding a wide range of metal thicknesses
in home and motorsports applications. For welding thinner material, use a .023-in. wire to reduce heat
input. For welding thicker material at higher total heat levels, use .035-in. (or .045-in. wire if it's within your
welder's output range).

Miller's unique Auto-Set feature automatically chooses the correct voltage

and wire feed speed - all you need to do is set it to the correct material
thickness and wire diameter.

Gas Selection

A 75 percent argon/25 percent CO2 blend (also called "75/25" or "C25") works as the best "all
purpose" shielding gas for carbon steel. It produces the least amount spatter, best bead appearance
and won't promote burn-through on thinner metals.

100 percent CO2 provides deeper penetration, but also increases spatter and the bead will be
rougher than with 75/25.

Voltage and Amperage

How much voltage and amperage a weld requires depends on numerous variables, including metal
thicknesses, type of metal, joint configuration, welding position, shielding gas and wire diameter speed
(among others). Miller provides two tools to simplify setting proper voltage and amperage:
1.
2.

A convenient reference chart, located on the inside of the door housing the wire feed system.
Miller's unique Auto-Set function, found on four Millermatic models. Simply select the wire
diameter you're using (a blue light will show that Auto-Set is on) and dial in the thickness of metal on
which you plan to weld. Auto-Set then selects the proper voltage, amperage and wire feed speed for
you.

Using either method will get you in the ballpark. From there, you can then fine-tune the welding arc to your
perso nal preferences.

Wire Stick-out

Stick-out is the length of unmelted electrode extending from the tip of the contact tube, and it does not
include arc length. Generally, maintain a stick-out of 3/8 in. and listen for that "sizzling bacon" sound. If the
arc sounds irregular, one culprit could be that your stick-out is too long, which is an extremely common
error.

The proper wire stick-out for most solid wire MIG applications is about 3/8". Try to maintain this stick-out length while welding.

Push or Pull?

The push or forehand technique involves pushing the gun away from (ahead of) the weld puddle.
Pushing usually produces lower penetration and a wider, flatter bead because the arc force is directed
away from the weld puddle.

With the drag or backhand technique (also called the, pull or trailing technique), the welding gun
is pointed back at the weld puddle and dragged away from the deposited metal. Dragging typically
produces deeper penetration and a narrower bead with more buildup.

There's an old saying that goes, "If there's slag, you drag," which means use the drag technique for Stick
and Flux Cored welding. When MIG welding mild steel you can use either technique, but note that
pushing usually offers a better view and enables you to better direct wire into the joint.

Travel Angle
Travel angle is defined as the angle relative to the gun in a perpendicular position. Normal welding
conditions in all positions call for a travel angle of 5 to 15 degrees. Travel angles beyond 20 to 25
degrees can lead to more spatter, less penetration and general arc instability.

You'll want to direct more heat into the bottom piece of metal when welding a lap joint. A 60 to 70 degree angle is usually best.

Work Angle
Work angle is the gun position relative to the angle of the welding joint, and it varies with each welding
position and joint configuration (see below).

Hold the MIG gun at a 90 degree angle to each piece of metal when we lding a butt joint in order to direct the heat and filler metal
equally to each piece of material.

Flat Position

Butt weld (a "180-degree" joint): Hold the gun at a 90-degree angle to the workpiece, directing the
filler metal straight into the joint (but don't forget to include your travel angle of 5 to 15 degrees). A
small, back and forth motion with the gun can help fill a large gap or when making multiple passes. A
slight pausing at the side of a weave bead can help avoid undercut.

T-joint (a 90-degree joint; the type of weld on this joint is called a "fillet weld"): Keep the gun at a
45-degree angle, or equal distance from each piece. When making multiple weld passes, the work
angles change slightly. This helps avoid uneven weld beads and undercuts.

Lap joint (also a fillet weld): Angle the gun between 60 and 70 degrees. The thicker the metal
being welded, the greater the angle.

A fillet weld, shown here, is one of the most common types of welds. In the flat position, keep the gun angled at 45 degrees from
each piece.

Horizontal Position
Because of the effects of gravity, the gun work angle must be dropped slightly by 0 to 15 degrees. Without
changing the work angle, the filler metal may sag or rollover on the bottom side of the weld joint. The
travel angle, whether using a push or a drag technique, generally remains the same as for a weld joint in
the flat position.
On thick metal when making multi-pass welds, or to bridge a slight gap where fit-up is poor, weave beads
may be used to fill a weld joint. A slight hesitation at the top toe of the weld helps prevent undercut and
ensure proper tie-in of the weld to the base metal.
Voltage and amperage settings for welding in the horizontal position are usually the same or very slightly
less than settings for welding in the flat position.

A horizontal weld is a bit more tricky than a flat position weld and requires you to angle the gun slightly upward toward the top
piece of material.

Vertical Positions
Vertical welding, both up and down, can be difficult. This makes pre-weld set-up very important for making
high quality welds. Since you are fighting gravity, consider reducing the voltage and amperage 10 to 15
percent from the settings for the same weld in the flat position.

The vertical down technique helps w hen welding thin metals because the arc penetrates less due
to the faster travel speed. Because vertical down welding helps avoid excessive melt-through, welders
sometime place very thin materials in the vertical position even if they can weld them in the flat
position.

When welding vertical down, begin at the top of a joint and weld down. For thin metal where burnthrough is a concern, direct the wire away from the weld puddle. Keep the electrode wire on the
leading edge of the weld puddle. A very slight weave may help flatten the weld crown.

The vertical up technique: Beginning at the bottom of a joint and welding up can provide better
penetration on thicker materials (typically 1/4 in. or more). The travel angle of the gun is a 5 to 15
degree drop from the perpendicular position. A slight weaving motion can help control the size, shape
and cooling effects of the weld puddle.

Whether you weld vertical up or down will depend on the application and the thickness of the material you are welding.

Overhead Position
Drag, push or perpendicular gun techniques can be used for welding overhead. But, because of gravity,
travel speeds must be fast enough so that the weld metal does not fall out of the joint. Also for this reason,
weave beads should not be too wide. Lowering the voltage and amperage help keep the weld puddle
small and more controllable (which is why you might want to consider using a smaller diameter wire).

Gravity is the enemy when making an overhead weld. Be careful not to stand directly under the weld bead to avoid molten metal
that can fall from the joint.

Practice, Practice, Practice!

Note that travel speed - the rate at which you move the gun along the joint - influences the shape and
quality of a weld bead to a significant degree. Many experienced MIG welders determine the correct travel
speed by judging the weld puddle size in relation to the joint thickness. Knowing that a weld bead needs
to be no larger than the thinnest section of metal being welded, they adjust their travel speed accordingly.
They also keep the arc on the leading edge of the puddle and don't let the molten met al get ahead of
them.
Most people can create good looking, high quality MIG welds with a combination of practice and following
the techniques discussed. For more information, including troubleshooting advice, visit the MIG
Resources page on Miller's Web site.
- See more at: https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/article-library/mig-welding-the-basics-for-mildsteel#sthash.wA20x2Q3.dpuf

Imp Link

https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/weld-setting-calculators/mig-solid-corewelding-calculator

The Basics: MIG Troubleshooting

Like any welding process, MIG welding has its complications. Even so, there is no reason to let
common problems slow you down. With a bit of knowledge and some solid troubleshooting skills,
you can easily find the right solution to get back to weldingsooner than later. Consider the following
guidelines to help you along the way.

Keep Covered
Porosity occurs when a gas pocket becomes caught in the weld
metal. This discontinuity can appear at any specific point on the
weld or along its full length, and/or on the surface or the inside of a
weld. The result, regardless of the location, is always the same: a
weaker weld.
Inadequate shielding gas coverage is one of the most common
causes of porosity. To correct this problem, first check the regulator
or flow meter for adequate gas flow, increasing it if necessary, and
check the gas hoses and the gun for leaks. Whether welding inside
or outside, shield the arc and weld puddle from drafts with a
welding screen. Next, confirm that the MIG gun nozzle is large
enough for the application, as too small of a nozzle can prevent
MIG welding defects can cause downtime
proper shielding gas flow. Keep the nozzle one-fourth to one-half
and lost productivity due to rework. Use
these tips to help you minimize these costs
inch away from the work piece, make certain it is free of spatter,
by quickly identifing and resolving MIG
and always use the correct contact tip recess. Slow your travel
welding problems.
speed and hold the MIG gun near the bead at the end of the weld
until the molten metal solidifies; pulling the gun away too soon can interrupt gas coverage and leave
the setting weld vulnerable to the atmosphere.
Additional causes of porosity include: using the wrong gas (always use a welding-grade shielding
gas appropriate for the base metal and filler metal), using too much or the wrong type of anti-spatter
(use the correct amount and type for your application) and extending the welding wire too far out of
the nozzle (extend no more than one-half inch beyond the nozzle).
Impurities in the base metal, such as sulfur and phosphorous in steel, or a dirty base metal can be
further causes of porosity. If specifications allow, consider changing to a different composition of
base metal, and always remove rust, grease, paint, coatings, oil, moisture and dirt prior to welding.
Filler metals with added deoxidizers can help to clean the weld, but should never be solely relied
upon to minimize porosity. Finally, replace any wet or contaminated shielding cylinders immediately.
Dont Be Undercut
Undercutting occurs when a groove melts into the base metal next to the toe of the weld and the
weld metal fails to fill that area. This discontinuity weakens the toe of the weld, increasing the
chances of cracking. Correcting the problem is relatively simple: reduce the welding current,
decrease the welding arc voltage and adjust your MIG gun angle toward the joint. Reduce your travel
speed so the weld metal completely fills the melted-out areas of the base metal. When using a
weaving technique, pause slightly at each side of the weld bead.
When the weld metal fails to completely fuse the weld metal with the base metal or with the
preceding weld bead in multi-pass applications, incomplete fusion can occur. Some people refer to

this problem as lack of fusion. Generally, an incorrect MIG gun angle is the cause and you should
adjust it accordingly. Follow these steps:

Place the stringer bead near the proper point on the joint, adjusting the work angle or
widening the groove as needed to access it fully.
Keep the arc on the leading edge of the welding puddle by maintaining an angle of zero to 15
degrees.
If using a weaving technique, momentarily hold the arc on the groove sidewall.
If correcting the MIG gun angle does not remedy incomplete fusion, look to see if the welding puddle
is too far ahead of the wire. If so, increase your travel speed and/or the welding current to correct the
problem. Conversely, if you suspect insufficient heat input has caused incomplete fusion, select a
higher voltage range and/or adjust the wire feed speed as necessary. Finally, always clean the
surface of the base metal prior to welding to remove contaminants that may prevent the metal from
fusing together.

Proper work angles are important for

avoiding GMA welding pitfalls like
incomplete fusion.

Another common MIG welding problemspatteroccurs when the weld puddle expels molten metal
and scatters it along the weld bead; this molten metal then cools and forms a solid mass on the
workpiece. Excessive spatter not only creates a poor weld appearance, but it can also lead to
incomplete fusion in multiple welding pass applications. Too fast of a wire feed speed, too high of a

voltage setting, and too long of a welding wire extension, or stick-out, can cause spatter. Lowering
the given settings and using a shorter stick-out can help.
Like porosity, insufficient shielding gas and/or dirty base materials can cause spatter. As necessary,
increase the shielding gas flow at the regulator and minimize drafts near the welding arc, clean and
dry the welding wire, and remove all grease, dirt and other contaminants from the base metal.
Other factors that can cause spatter are: the wrong size contact tip, a worn contact tip or the wrong
tip to nozzle recess. Be certain you have the right contact tips, nozzles and recess parameters for
the application.
Keep Track of the Heat
Excessive penetration occurs when the weld metal melts through the base metal and hangs
underneath the weld. Excessive heat input is usually to blame for the problem. To correct this, select
a lower voltage range, reduce the wire feed speed and increase your travel speed.
Conversely, insufficient heat input can cause lack of penetration, or the shallow fusion between the
weld metal and the base metal. Selecting higher wire feed speed, a higher voltage range and/or
reducing travel speed are all viable remedies. Preparing the joint correctly also helps prevent lack of
penetrationthe preparation and design should permit access to the bottom of the groove and allow
you to maintain proper stick-out and arc characteristics.

Lack of penetration and excessive

penetration can be remedied by adjusting
factors such as voltage, wire feed speed and
travel speeds.

All About Wire

Wire feed stoppages and wire feed system malfunctions can adversely affect the welding arc and

create irregularities that may weaken the weld bead. Birdnesting, a tangle of wire that halts the wire
from being fed, is a common problem. You can resolve birdnesting by flipping up the drive roll and
pulling the wire back out of the gun. Next, trim the affected wire and re-thread it through the feeder
and back to the gun. If the welding specifications allow, decrease the drive roll tension, use a larger
diameter wire and/or reduce the distance the wire feeds (use shorter cables) to minimize the chance
of birdnesting.

If the wire melts back and fuses with the

contact tip, as shown, the tip should be
replaced and the drive rolls checked for a
birdnest before continuing to weld.

Burnback is also very common. It results when a weld forms in the

contact tip, and usually occurs because of too slow of wire feed
speeds and/or from holding the MIG gun too close to the base metal
during welding. To correct burnback, increase the wire feed speed
and lengthen the distance of the MIG gun from the workpiece (the
nozzle should be no further than one-half inch from the metal).
Replace burnback-damaged contact tips by removing the nozzle
and the contact tip (which may be melted to the wire), snipping the
wire, installing the new contact tip and replacing the nozzle with one
that has the appropriate tip recess for the application.

Other causes of wire feeding problems include liner blockages,

improperly trimmed liners (too short/burred/pinched) or the wrong size liner. To remedy these
problems, replace any liner if you find a blockage, always trim the liner according to the
manufacturers direction and be certain you are using the correct size liner for the welding wire
diameter.
No Cure-All
Remember, quality MIG welds are the result of not only good welding technique, but also your ability
to identify and solve problems quickly if they do occur. Continue arming yourself with some basic
information and youll be able to tackle the most common problems associated with MIG welding
without sacrificing time or quality.