Builders' Steel

Stud Guide
Publication RG-9607
October 1996

1726 M Street, NW, Suite 601

Washington, DC 20036-4523
1-800-79-STEEL

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Copyright 1996 by the American Iron and Steel Institute

BUILDERS' STEEL STUD GUIDE

July 1996

Prepared for:

American Iron and Steel Institute

1101 17th Street, NW
Suite 1300
Washington, DC 20036-4700

Prepared by:

NAHB Research Center, Inc.

400 Prince George's Blvd.
Upper Marlboro, MD 20774-8731

Copyright 1996

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The NAHB Research Center developed this publication for the American Iron and Steel
Institute with guidance from the AISI Residential Advisory Group. It is intended to provide
contractors with instructions and details for constructing homes with cold-formed steel
studs. AISI believes that the information contained in this publication substantially
represents industry practice and related scientific and technical information, but the
information is not intended to represent an official position of AISI or to restrict or exclude
any other construction or design techniques.

American Iron and Steel Institute

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4
The following publication has been developed by the American Iron and Steel Institute
(AISI) which is comprised of representatives of steel producers in the US, Canada and
Mexico. The NAHB Research Center has exercised due diligence in consulting a wide
range of pertinent authorities and experiences and has used its best efforts to present
accurate, reliable and useful information. AISI acknowledges the principal author of this
publication, Chad J. Garner, reviewers Mark Nowak and Timothy J. Waite, P.E., and
administrative assistance by Kimberly Koontz and Julie Kostro. AISI also acknowledges all
the individuals of the Residential Advisory Group who contributed to this effort.

The materials set forth herein are for general information only. They are not a substitute for
competent professional assistance. Application of this information to specific project or
setting should be reviewed by a qualified individual. In some or all jurisdictions, such
review is required. Anyone making use of the information set forth herein does so at his or
her own risk and assumes any resulting liability.

Builders’ Stud Guide

October 1996

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

We wish to recognize the American Iron and Steel Institute (AISI) for funding this guide and
for their efforts towards developing the residential steel framing industry. AISI has over 40
company members who provide the sheet steel necessary for residential steel framing.

The preparation of this guide required the talents of many dedicated professionals. The
principal author of this publication was Chad J. Garner, with review by Mark Nowak and
Timothy J. Waite, P.E., of the NAHB Research Center, and administrative assistance by
Kimberly Koontz and Julie Kostro. Special thanks also go to Mike Meyers (USX), Richard
Haws (AISI), Mark Mengel (Crown Building Systems), and Kevin Gramley (Unimast
Incorporated) for their input.

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 CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION.......................................................................................................................1
Advantages of Steel Framing........................................................................................1
Measures Unique to Steel .............................................................................................1
Getting Started with Steel Framing ...............................................................................2
Description of Members.................................................................................................3
Purchasing Steel Framing Material...............................................................................4

TOOLS AND FASTENERS ......................................................................................................5

Field Cuts.......................................................................................................................6
Screw Guns....................................................................................................................7
Fasteners .......................................................................................................................9

INTERIOR NONLOADBEARING-WALL CONSTRUCTION.................................................11

Typical Wall Assembly ................................................................................................13
Corner Framing............................................................................................................14
Framing at Openings ...................................................................................................14

LOADBEARING-WALL CONSTRUCTION............................................................................15
Design Considerations ................................................................................................17
Layout...........................................................................................................................17
Typical Loadbearing-Wall Assembly ..........................................................................18
Framing a Wall Opening .............................................................................................18
Corner Framing............................................................................................................19
Raising the Walls and Temporary Bracing.................................................................21
Attaching Loadbearing Walls to the Foundation or Floor Deck.................................22
Shear Bracing ..............................................................................................................24

ATTACHING FINISH MATERIALS.........................................................................................24

Baseboard and Other Interior Trim .............................................................................24
Cabinets and Vanities..................................................................................................24
Closet Shelving............................................................................................................25
Gypsumboard Installation............................................................................................25

UTILITY INSTALLATION........................................................................................................26
Field Cuts.....................................................................................................................26
Plumbing ......................................................................................................................27
Electrical.......................................................................................................................28
Duct Work ....................................................................................................................29
Insulation......................................................................................................................30

APPENDIX - Sample Floor Plan/Cut List ............................................................................. A-1

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 INTRODUCTION

Steel has helped shape the world we live in for hundreds of years. Bridges, railroads,
automobiles, and even our homes all contain some steel. More recently, builders are using
more cold-formed steel in homebuilding to frame floors, walls, and roofs. Despite the recent
increase in interest, cold-formed steel framing is not new. It is a field-proven material in
both the commercial and residential construction industries.

Resources for the production of cold-formed steel are plentiful. The technology has
improved so that the price of steel has remained relatively steady. This is in contrast to the
wide fluctuations that have occurred with lumber prices since the early 1990s. Steel can
also be consistently produced to very specific strengths, shapes, and sizes within small
tolerances. These and other factors have rendered steel a viable framing material to meet
the demands of the residential construction industry.

Advantages of Steel Framing

In addition to its cost effectiveness and consistent quality, steel has many more advantages
which make it appealing to builders and homebuyers.

• Cold-formed steel is a proven framing material with a long track record in the
commercial building industry.
• Steel can be used to frame a house in different ways, including stick-built, panelized,
and pre-engineered buildings. Steel homes can be built using layouts similar to
wood framing.
• Steel's inherent strength can provide the builder with design flexibility. Steel-framed
homes may also be built to meet the highest seismic and wind load specifications in
the country.
• Steel is non-combustible, insect resistant, and will not rot.
• Steel will not shrink, split, or warp, resulting in fewer call-backs for nail pops and
busted seams in gypsumboard.
• Steel framing members are light and easy to handle, reducing worker fatigue.
• Waste from steel framing is recyclable.
• Pre-punched framing members facilitate the installation of electrical wires and other
utilities.

Measures Unique to Steel

Like any framing material, steel has some unique characteristics that require the builder to
do things a little differently. This may slow a builder down at first; however, most builders
quickly overcome these differences.

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• The top and bottom tracks of steel walls are usually not capable of transferring
vertical loads. This will require you to use an "in-line" framing technique. It requires
slightly more planning and more precise workmanship.
• The tools and fasteners, although not unfamiliar, take some practice to become
efficient in their operation.
• Subcontractors that are unfamiliar with steel will need to be trained.
The thermal properties of a steel wall may require the application of some different
insulating practices, especially in northern states. For the suggested insulation
levels in your area of the country refer to AISI's Thermal Design Guide for Exterior
Walls, publication #RG-9405.
• Gloves are recommended when working with steel to protect hands from sharp
edges.

Getting Started with Steel Framing

Making the transition to steel framing can be a gradual process or a complete changeover.
Many builders start with interior partition walls because they are generally accepted in most
building codes and do not require a special design. This gives the builder and their
subcontractors an opportunity to become comfortable working with the product prior to
expanding into loadbearing members.

Regardless of which approach you take, there are a few basics that apply to both
loadbearing and partition studs. These are covered in the following sections followed by
specific guidelines for each type of wall. Recommendations for gypsumboard installers,
trim-out carpenters, electricians, plumbers, and insulators are provided in the last sections.

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Description of Members

When selecting steel for framing, three primary variables should be considered: shape,
thickness, and strength of the steel. Although many shapes of cold-formed steel are
available, the most common in residential construction are the "C"-shape and the track.
The "C" is used as a header and a stud, whereas the track is used like the top and bottom
plates in wood construction (except most track is not capable of transferring vertical loads).

The "C"-shape consists of three parts:
the web, flange, and lip (see Figure 1).
Care must be taken when selecting
studs to ensure the dimensions are
compatible with doors, windows, and
other parts of the home. A 3½-inch or
5½-inch web (measured from the
outside of the flanges) is consistent
with today's lumber dimensions,
although other sizes may be used but
require additional attention at doors
and windows. The flanges range from
1½ inches to 1_ inches depending on
the manufacturer and the type of stud.
The track section has a web and a
flange, but does not have the lip that is
present on the "C"-shape. This allows
the "C" to fit into the track. Thus, the
web of the track section is measured
from the inside of the flanges (see
Figure 2). The flange of the track
should be at least 1¼ inches to provide
a surface for attaching gypsumboard,
sheathing, and trim.

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Other members that may be required for steel framing include flat straps and angles.
Straps, which come in a variety of widths, are typically used for wall bracing and bridging.
Angles are usually used for bulkheads and other specialty framing where a "C"-shape stud
will not work.

Cold-formed steel members come in a variety of thicknesses as shown in Table 1. More

recently, the industry is beginning to adopt designations in mil thicknesses (inches x 1000)
as shown in the first column of Table 1. The term "gauge" in the second column has been
the traditional means to identify steel thickness.

Table 1. Nominal Thickness of Steel

Minimum Delivered Reference Gauge Number

Thickness (mils)

18 25
27 22
33 20
43 18
54 16
68 14
97 12

In addition to its thickness, the strength of a steel section is dependent on the size, shape,
and yield strength of the steel. In the United States, most steel is designated as 33 ksi (kips
per square inch) for 18- to 43-mil steel and 50 ksi for 54 mil and thicker.

Purchasing Steel Framing Material

Sheet metal is produced in steel mills. The sheet steel is cold-formed by other
manufacturers commonly called roll-formers into the shapes used for framing.
Nonloadbearing framing material can be purchased through distribution outlets such as
home centers, building supply centers, or directly from the roll-formers. Loadbearing
framing materials are also supplied through roll-formers and through local or regional
distributors. AISI publishes a Residential Products Directory to help locate these
companies. Not every builder is located close to a roll-former or distributor, so the first step
should be to locate a supplier or roll-former that operates in your area.

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 TOOLS AND FASTENERS

Cutting and fastening steel requires different tools than does lumber and other materials. In
order to reduce frustrations on the jobsite, you should become familiar with these tools and
learn the correct application for each. A quick reference for tools and fasteners is shown
below in Table 2.

Table 2. Tools Recommended for Use with Steel Framing

Cutting
Aviation snips - cuts up to 33-mil material and makes cuts for coping track flanges.
14-gauge swivel head electric shear - cuts up to 68-mil material.
14-inch chop saw - for cutting multiple sections simultaneously, especially partition studs.
Step drill bit, 1 inch - for drilling holes in studs and track.
Hole punch, 1¼
inch - for field punching holes for the installation of electrical and plumbing systems.

Fastening
Adjustable clutch screwgun - with industrial motor (5.4 amps), 0-2500 rpm variable speed, reversible,
bit
tip holder release, adjustable torque control for framing.
Magnetic bit tip holder and #2 Phillips bit tips.
5/16-inch magnetic hex driver for hex-head screws.
Two pair of 3-inch, two pair of 6-inch, and one pair of 12-inch locking C-clamps with regular tips for
clamping steel together while fastening.
Deep-throat bar clamp - for clamping headers in wall sections while fastening.
Gypsumboard screwgun - with industrial motor (5.4 amps), 0-4000 rpm variable speed, reversible, with
depth locating nose piece for sheathing and gypsumboard installation.

Miscellaneous
3½
-inch and 5-inch hand seamers - for bending and coping track.
Bull-nose pliers - for removing screws.

Felt markers - for layout and cuts (black and red).

Other miscellaneous tools include: tape measure, speed square, utility knife, wallboard ax, and 50'
grounded extension cords.

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Field Cuts

As with any material, it is best to minimize the need for field cuts. Many roll-forming
manufacturers will do most of the cutting during production if provided with a detailed cut
list. This can significantly shorten on-site construction time. A sample cut list is provided in
the Appendix. Pre-cut material has an added advantage because suppliers use a shear cut
which folds the galvanized coating over the ends and prevents corrosion.

Where cutting is required, a felt marker

works better on steel than a pencil. For
cutting 18- and 27-mil steel, aviation snips
(see Photo 1) will suffice. Thicker steel will
require a chop saw with an abrasive blade
(see Photo 2). Electric shears (see Photo
1) are also available in models that can cut
up to 68-mil steel. The shears will produce
a cut similar to a manufacturer's cut where
the galvanized coating is folded over the
edge of the cut. An abrasive cut will burn
the galvanized coating, leaving the cut Studs typically have pre-punched holes
unprotected from corrosion. The every 24 inches to allow for the
galvanized coating, however, will not allow installation of utilities. Sometimes pre-
corrosion to spread beyond the cut. punched holes are not sufficient and
field cuts will be needed. Manual stud
punches are available and make a 1¼-
inch hole. For larger holes a hole saw
or step bit is used (see Photo 3).
Additional information on field-punched
holes is contained in the section on
Utility Installation.

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Screw Guns
When fastening steel framing members
together you will need an industrial-
quality (5.4 amps), variable-speed up to
2500 rpm, reversible screwgun to drive
the self-drilling fasteners (see Photo 4).
A 4000-rpm gypsumboard screwgun is
helpful when driving the screws used for
attaching gypsumboard and sheathing.
The nose piece on this type of screwgun
will stop you from driving the screws
through the sheathing or gypsumboard.
The proper way to hold the screwgun is
to lay your index and second finger
aside the motor housing and use your
third or fourth finger as the trigger finger
(see Photo 5). This will make the gun
more of an extension of your arm than if
you were to hold it as you would a drill.
When driving a self-drilling screw, do not
operate the screwgun at full speed.
Bump the trigger until you see metal
chips falling away from the screw. This
is the correct rpm. It will vary depending
on the fastener. These techniques will
speed production and reduce fatigue.
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The majority of fasteners for steel
framing are either Phillips or 5/16-
inch hex-head screws. You should
keep plenty of these bits on site (see
Photo 6).
Other tools include felt markers to mark
cuts, locking C-clamps to hold steel
members together during fastening,
and "duck-bill" pliers or hand seamers
to make bends in track and studs (see
Photo 8). A magnetic level is useful
with steel framing. It allows both hands
to be free while walls are plumbed and
fastened.

Magazine or collated attachments are

also available for some screwguns.
These can be used for speeding
production. There are also
pneumatic nailers that drive pins for
attaching sheathing in much the same
way that you use a nail gun (see
Photo 7).

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Fasteners
Clinching, pins, welding, and screws have
all been used with steel framing.
However, screws are by far the most
common fastener for home construction.
There are a variety of screws for each
application. Only the most common are
discussed here.
Four characteristics of the screw must be
matched to the application: size, length,
head type, and drill point. The size of the
screw is given as a number designation,
i.e., #8, #10, etc. The larger the number,
the wider the shank and the stronger the
screw. The size and number of screws in
loadbearing walls should be dictated by
your designer or local code. The length
of your fasteners will be dictated by the
thickness of the materials to be fastened.
As a rule of thumb for a good connection,
there should be at least three exposed
threads through the connected members.
There are many different types of heads
for fasteners. The major categories are
the low-profile and hex-head types (see
Photo 9).
Low-profile heads are preferable in
situations where another layer of material
is to be added, such as gypsumboard,
sheathing, or siding. Hex-head screws
are easier to drive and can be very useful
when trying to get to hard-to-reach areas.
There is also a finishing screw for the
fastening of trim and architectural details.
This screw has a small head that is easily
counter sunk and will not split or crack the
trim.
The two basic drill points are the sharp
point and the self-drilling (see Photo 10).
Sharp-point screws are typically used for
attaching gypsum wallboard and
sheathing to studs up to 33-mil thick. For
framing connections and attaching
sheathing to thicker studs, a self-drilling
point is used.
As shown in Photo 10, self-drilling screws
have either a smooth shank (pilot point) or
small wings that protrude above the
drilling tip (winged). The smooth shank
on the pilot-point screw allows the drill
point to penetrate the steel before the
threads engage in the sheathing. Thus,
the smooth shank should be slightly
longer than the sheathing. The winged
screws have wings that clear the material
around the threads so that the sheathing
does not climb the threads. The wings
break off when they hit the metal and the
threads engage. This allows the
sheathing to be pulled tight when the
threads engage in the steel. Table 3
summarizes some of the common
fasteners used for various applications.
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 Table 3. Typical Fasteners Used with Steel Framing

APPLICATION FASTENER
Steel to Steel Nonloadbearing Minimum #6, sharp point, low-profile head.
(less than 33 mils)
Steel to Steel Loadbearing Minimum #8, self-drilling, low-profile head where gypsumboard or
sheathing is to be installed; otherwise, a hex head can be used.
Gypsumboard Minimum #6, sharp point/self drilling1, bugle-head screws.
Interior Trim #6 minimum, sharp point/pilot point,1 finish or trim-head screws.
If wood blocking is installed use finishing nails.
Foam Insulation Roofing nails to structural sheathing, or minimum #6, self drilling,
bugle head with a washer to prevent the screw from pulling
through the foam.
OSB/Plywood Minimum #8, sharp point/self drilling1, bugle-head screw. Winged
screws and pneumatic fasteners are also available.
Stucco Lath Nail lath to wood sheathing or screw through foam backing to stud
with #8 minimum drill point, low profile.
Siding Minimum #8, sharp point/self drilling1, bugle head. Winged
screws are also available.
Brick Ties Minimum #8, sharp point/self drilling1, hex-head screws.
Exterior Trim Minimum #8, sharp point/self drilling1, bugle-head or trim-head
fastener.
Steel to Foundation (Slab) Refer to section on Loadbearing-Wall Construction, Attaching
Loadbearing Walls to the Foundation or Floor Deck.
1
Use a sharp point for studs up to 33 mils and a self-drilling point for thicker steel.

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INTERIOR NONLOADBEARING-WALL CONSTRUCTION

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Nonloadbearing walls generally consist of 3½-inch, 18- or 27-mil studs and track on
spacings up to 24 inches (see Figure 3). Wider studs (5½ inches) will be needed for a
plumbing wall. You will need a pair of aviation snips, red and black felt markers,
locking C-Clamps, and a screwgun capable of running up to 2500 rpm.

Typical Wall Assembly

Walls can be assembled on the deck and then raised into position (tilt-up framing), or
walls can be built "in-place" by installing the top and bottom track first and then placing
the studs into the tracks.

• Use your black-felt marker to mark the locations of the layout studs (usually at
24 inches on center) on the track.
• Use the red-felt marker to mark the location of openings.
• Your layout will be more accurate if you mark both tracks at the same time.

For "in-place" framing:

• Use your chalkline to layout location of the walls on the subfloor or slab.
• Use a plum-bob and chalkline to mark the location of the walls at the joists or
trusses.
• Secure the bottom track to the subfloor with two #8, sharp-point screws every 24
inches.
• When securing the bottom track to a concrete slab use two low-velocity, powder-
actuated fasteners every 24 inches.
• Use #8 self-drilling screws to secure the top track to each joist or truss.
• Where the wall runs parallel to the joists, use pieces of track or "C"-shapes as
blocking every 24 inches (see Detail NB2) as follows:
• Cut the blocking two inches longer than the distance between joists. Clip
the flanges back 1 inch to allow the web to lap over the joists.
• Secure the blocking on both ends with two #8, self-drilling screws.
• Twist the studs into the track and attach them with a #6 or #8 screw through the
track into each flange of the stud.

For tilt-up framing:

• Lay the top and bottom track on the floor with stud location marked on each.
• Twist the studs into the top and bottom track and clamp them with your locking
C-Clamps.
• Tap the track and studs together and fasten studs to tracks.
• Use one #6 or #8 screw through the track into the upward-facing flange of the
stud (see Detail NB1).
• Fasten all studs on one side of the wall, then flip the wall to fasten the other side
of the flanges.
• Once all the members are fastened, the wall can be stood into place, plumbed,
and fastened to the ceiling and floor as required for "in-place" framing.
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Corner Framing

Where two nonloadbearing walls come together to form a corner:

• Attach the web of one end stud into the flange of the other with #8 screws at 24
inches on center (see Detail NB3 and NB4).
• An additional stud will be required for gypsumboard installation. It is easier to
attach the corners of the walls if this stud is added after the corner is fastened.

Where two walls intersect:

• Use blocking for gypsumboard attachment similar to the blocking used for walls
running parallel to joists, or
• Use a six-inch stud turned so that the web is flat against the intersecting wall
and fasten through one side of the track into the web of the six-inch stud (see
Detail NB5). In a plumbing wall, an eight-inch joist or additional studs would be
needed to form a surface for gypsumboard.

Framing at Openings

When framing a door opening in a nonloadbearing wall:

• Turn the jamb studs so that the solid portion of the web faces the opening. This
provides a flat surface on which to fasten a jamb.
• Let the bottom track run continuous through the opening until after the wall is in
place. This will help keep the opening square.
• For the head of the opening, use a piece of 18- or 27-mil track cut two inches
longer than the opening.
• With aviation snips, cut the radius (corner) between the flange and web of
the track one inch.
• Bend the web towards the flanges with your three-inch seamers (this is
called coping the flange).
• Place the track at the height of your opening and fasten to the jamb studs with
one screw in each flange on each side. Install trimmer studs as necessary for
gypsumboard layout (see Details NB6).
• When framing an opening you may attach the door directly to the steel studs
with screws or install a wood trimmer around the openings. Be sure to leave
additional space in the opening if you choose to install a wood trimmer.

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LOADBEARING WALL CONSTRUCTION

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Typical loadbearing walls for residential construction are built with 33- to 54-imil studs
spaced 16 or 24 inches on center. Tools used for nonloadbearing construction are also
required for loadbearing walls. A few additional tools are required for cutting the
thicker metal used for bearing walls. A chopsaw with an abrasive bit or a pair of
electric shears will allow you to make necessary field cuts. Even with these tools, it will
be to your advantage to develop a detailed cut list and have as much of the material as
possible precut. All studs should be precut to length. In addition, some roll-formers will
precut header materials, jack studs, and even trimmer studs.

Design Considerations

The frame of a house provides its structural integrity. This is what enables a
home to withstand the forces of nature. With conventional materials such as
lumber and masonry, prescriptive methods have been developed and are
incorporated into building codes across the country. There are many charts and
tables that represent years of experience, engineering and testing that are
incorporated into the codes. As of January 1, 1997, cold-formed steel framing
joined this list of conventional materials. The Council of American Building
Officials (CABO) adopted Prescriptive Methods for residential cold-formed steel
framed wall and floor assemblies into the 1996 One and Two Family Dwelling
Code. The Prescriptive Methods were developed by the NAHB Research Center
under sponsorship of the American Iron and Steel Institute (AISI), the
Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD), and the National
Association of Home Builders (NAHB). They include wall stud tables, floor joist
span tables, and fastening schedules which are applicable in most areas of the
country. In areas recognizing CABO, the Prescriptive Methods should eliminate
the need for engineering calculations for most wall and floor assemblies. A copy
of the Prescriptive Methods for Residential Cold Formed Steel Framing can be
obtained from AISI (800-79-STEEL).

Layout

Stick Framing usually requires an “in-line” framing technique (see Figure 4).
The top and bottom track are not typically loadbearing: therefore, studs, joists,
and trusses must be aligned in order to transfer the loads to the member below.
Some engineers will design a top track so that the builder will not have to use in-
line framing. However, this method uses more steel. Depending on the design,
it may be necessary to add additional studs to transfer the load to the next
member. When marking the track for studs and wall openings, it is necessary to
take into account the joist and truss layout order to assure proper alignment of
members. Layout of studs, except where required at a wall opening or corner,
should all face the same direction. This will make the installation of batt
insulation much easier.

17
Typical Loadbearing-Wall Assembly

The most common way to build a loadbearing wall is to pre-assemble the wall on the
deck as described below:

• Use your black-felt marker to mark the locations of the layout studs (usually at
24 inches on center).
• Use the red-felt market to mark the location of openings.
• Your layout will be more accurate if you mark both tracks at the same time.
• Where necessary, tracks should be spliced by inserting a section of stud into the
track as shown in Detail LB1.
• Twist studs into the tracks and clamp them with your locking C-Clamps.
• Next tap the track and studs together and fasten the studs to the tracks. It is
important to get the top and bottom of the studs as tight to the track as possible.
• Typical fastening details are similar to those for nonloadbearing walls except
they call for one #8 minimum, self-drilling, low-profile screw on each flange (see
Detail NB1).
• Fasten all studs on one side of the wall, then flip the wall to fasten the other
side. If you are using plywood or other exterior sheathing, it is best to fasten the
interior side of the studs first and then flip the wall and connect the exterior side
to the tracks.

Where members are placed right next to each other they can create a cavity that
cannot be easily accessed. Therefore, you will have to pre-insulate in these areas or
come back later and spray foam into them.

Framing a Wall Opening

There are two types of headers that are commonly used in steel framing: an I-beam
header and a box header. In each case, the number of fasteners will be determined by
the engineer or code.

I-Beam Header (Detail LB2)

• The I-beam header consists of two “C”-sections with the webs screwed back-to-
back.
• The size of the header material will be called out by your building code or
engineer.
• Two clip angles should be installed as web stiffeners between the lips of the two
header pieces. (The angles are typically one inch smaller than the web depth.)
• Place the stiffeners flush with each end of the header against the web of the
header material and fasten with #8 minimum, hex-head screws.

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Box Header (Detail LB3)

• The box header consists of the two “C”-sections assembles with the open side of
C”s facing each other.
• The box header should be insulated during wall assembly.
• On each end of the header a gusset plate should be installed so that it
overhangs the header material by one inch. As an alternative, you can use C-
shapes inside the box attached through the webs to the header and screwed to
the king stud through the flanges.

Header Assembly

• When assembling the wall, mark the rough opening in the track.
• With the I-beam header, first position the header in the top track and fasten the
exterior side of the track into the header with screws. Install king studs with the
webs directly against the header and attach the web stiffeners already installed
in the header (see Detail LB2).
• With the box header, install the king studs first, then insert the header pieces,
and fasten through the gusset or C-shapes into the king studs (see Detail LB3).
• With both types of headers, cut a piece of track two inches longer than the
header and cope the flanges one inch on each end. Center the track on the
bottom of the header and fasten it to the header with #8 minimum screws, as
required.
• Install and fasten the jack studs.

Now trimming out the opening under the header is the same as if it were a
nonloadbearing wall except the studs are thicker. As with nonloadbearing walls, do not
cut the track from the bottom of a door opening until the walls are in place. If you plan
to use wood around the opening for the attachment of trim, be sure to allow an
additional three inches for the attachment of wood 2 x 4. For doors, only allow 1 ½
inches in the height of the opening since a 2 x 4 is not needed at the bottom.

Corner Framing

When framing exterior corners:

• Cut the top track three inches longer on one wall.

• Clip the flanges off the three-inch overhang on the inside of the wall.
• When the walls are brought together, the web overhang will lay over the top
track of the other wall (see Detail LB4).
• Fasten the web overhang into the top of the other wall with four #8 minimum
screws.
• Install #8 minimum (3/4 inch), self-drilling screws every 24 inches through the
web of one end stud into the flange of the other (see Detail LB5).

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• Install an extra stud for gypsumboard attachment after the walls are connected.
This ensures the proper placement of this stud and keeps it out of the way when
connecting the walls (see Detail LB5).

Where two walls intersect at an interior corner:

• Use blocking similar to the blocking used for walls running parallel to joists, or
• Use a six-inch stud turned so that the web faces the intersecting wall and fasten
through one side of the track into the web of the six-inch stud (see Detail LB6).

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Railing the Walls and Temporary Bracing

• Before the walls are stood into place, square the wall by diagonally measuring
the panel. A “C”-section screwed diagonally to the wall section will temporarily
keep the wall square before and during installation (see Photo 11). Temporary
bracing is not needed if plywood or other structural sheathing is applied before
the walls are stood into place.
• When all walls are raised, bring the corners together, check for plumb, and
secure the walls.
• Once the wall is raised into place, use “C”-sections screwed at the top of the wall
and secured to the ground in the same manner you would brace a wood frame.
These braces should remain in place until permanent bracing or sheathing is
installed.
• Lastly, adjust the temporary bracing to hold the walls square.
• Cut the bottom track at openings with a hack saw or reciprocating saw.

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Attaching Loadbearing Walls to the Foundation or Floor Deck

There are two forces you must account for when attaching walls to the foundation or
slab. These forces are shear and uplift. Shear is horizontal movement and uplift is
vertical movement. Both of these forces may be induced by wind or seismic events.
The most common fastener used to connect steel walls to a concrete foundation is the
J-bolt, although others are available (see Figure 5). J-bolts are pre-cast into the
foundation. A piece of stud can be used as a washer when bolting the walls to the
foundation. Your designer will specify the size and spacing of the fasteners. You may
want to ask your engineer to design using another type of fastener that you are more
comfortable using. Some of these include mudsill anchors, anchor straps, mushroom
spikes, drop-in anchors, and powder-actuated fasteners.

When attaching loadbearing walls to a steel-framed floor, drive two pilot-point screws
with a flat head (not a bugle head) through the track at each stud into the joists. Make
sure that at least three threads penetrate the joists. If you are attaching walls to a
wood-framed floor, wood screws can be driven into the band joist. The screws should
have a flat bottom on the head (not the countersunk variety). Confer with your designer
or code official for the specific fastener type and method.

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Shear Bracing
All houses require a certain amount of
shear bracing to resist lateral loads from
wind and/or earthquakes. In many cases
the shear bracing is accomplished with
sheathing such as OSB or plywood. If
you do not use structural sheathing, steel
straps or other types of shear bracing will
be required (see Detail LB7 and Photo
12). The size and location of the
diagonal strap and number of screws
required are determined by the engineer.
When installing the straps, it is
important to make sure that they are
drawn tight.
• A pair of locking C-clamps with
two “ears” made of small strips of
steel folded and fastened around
the jaws of the clamps make an
excellent stretcher for the shear
bracing (see Photo 13).
• First, fasten the strap at the top
of the wall.
• At the bottom of the wall fasten
one ear to the bottom track and
the other to the bottom of the
strap.
• Close the clamps and draw the
strap tighter in small increments
until the slack is taken out. Once
the strap is secured this “strap
stretcher” can be used again and
again.
• Be careful to not apply too much
tension and pull the wall out of
plumb.
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 ATTACHING FINISH MATERIALS

Baseboard and Other Interior Trim

There are several options which may be used to secure trim to steel studs:

• Construction adhesive. Finishing nails driven at criss-cross angles into the track
in pairs will hold the trim firmly in place while the adhesive dries (see Figure 6).
• Self-drilling finishing screws.
• A wood nailer may be installed during framing or 2 x 4 blocks may be placed in
the track after the wall is framed. This will allow the trim to be attached with
finishing nails.

Cabinets and Vanities

Just as in wood construction, special consideration has to be made to provide for the
installation of cabinetry. Use one of the three methods listed below (see Figure 7).

• Use wood blocking between studs. The blocking will have to be notched on one
end at the lip of the stud.
• Use a track with a minimum thickness of 33 mils. Notch the flanges at each stud
and fasten with two screws.
• Use a steel strip equal to the thickness of the wall stud fastened at each stud
with two screws (depending on the thickness of the strap).

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Closet Shelving

To attach wood supports for closet shelving, use bugle-head fasteners. Use sharp-
point fasteners for 18- and 27-mil studs and wing-tips for 33-mil and thicker studs.
Hex-head or low-profile screws can be used for the attachment of shelving brackets.

Gypsumboard Installation

Installation of gypsumboard on steel walls is very similar to wood construction.

Gypsumboard framers in commercial construction have been working with steel studs
for years.

• Hanging gypsumboard on 18- to 33-mil studs will require #6, 1 ¼ -inch bugle -
head scews with a sharp-point tip.
• For thicker studs, use a self-drilling #6, 1 ¼-inch, bugle-head screw.
• Construction adhesive may also be used.

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 UTILITY INSTALLATION

Field Cuts

Pre-punched studs should allow passage for most plumbing and electrical wiring, but
there are usually situations when you will need to make a field cut. Drain, waste, and
vent pipe greater than 1 ¾ inches in a 2 x 4 walls or 2 ½ inches in a 2 x 6 wall should
not be run through members in a loadbearing wall. Field cuts can be made adhering to
the following:

• Use a stud punch to create a 1 ¼-inch hole.

• Holes in studs thicker than 43 mils and larger holes needed for the installation of
drain lines can be made with a hole saw.
• Holes should not be closer than ten inches from the top or bottom of the stud.
• The top and bottom track may also be cut through the web only.

Limitations on holes in loadbearing members are illustrated in Figure 8. When larger

holes are inadvertently made in a stud, a repair is required. This will require a patch of
sheet steel with a minimum thickness equal to the member being repaired. The patch
should be attached with minimum #8 screws every inch along the edges of the patch.
Reinforcement details should be approved by the engineer or code official prior to their
use.

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Plumbing

Hangers

Hangers for plumbing pipes in steel framing should be secured with a ¾ inch, #6 sharp-
point screw in 18- and 27-mil studs and a #8, self-drilling screw in thicker studs.

Protection of Plumbing Pipes

Plastic pipe does not need corrosion protection when in contact with steel studs.
However, corrosion is a possibility where copper comes in direct contact with the steel.
The following methods are recommended:

• Plastic or foam insulators or grommets should be used where copper passes

through a steel stud. Most just snap in and are universal for all shapes of the
pre-punched studs (see Photo 14).
• Where copper pipe runs alongside the studs, wrap the copper with a piece of
pipe insulation.

Attachment of Plumbing Fixtures

Plumbing fixtures can be attached with #10, low-profile screws with a sharp point for
18- and 27-mil studs and a self-drilling point for 33-mil and thicker studs.

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Electrical
Wire Protection
Snap-in plastic insulators or grommets
are required to protect the plastic
sheathing on electrical wiring from the
sharp edges of steel studs. As for
plumbing, the majority of these insulators
are universal for the different shaped
punchouts in the studs (see Photo 15).
Electrical Boxes
• Use electrical boxes that have a
mounting bracket that attaches to
the side of the stud rather than in
the front. This will prevent bulges
in the gypsumboard (see Photo
15).
• Attach the boxes with ¾-inch, #6,
sharp-point screws for 18- and 2-
mil studs and #8, self-drilling
screws for thicker studs.
Securing Wiring
• For securing multiple wires such
as at a receptacle installation,
two ¼-inch holes and a zip tie
will suffice. In some areas,
inspectors will accept the use of
duct tape. You should check
with your electrical inspector
before you use this method.
• Where you have many wires
exiting a box, such as in a
double or triple gang box, a
standoff clip is the best method
for securing the wiring (see
Photo 16). These clips can be
installed with a single ¾-inch,
#6, sharp-point screw for 18-
and 27-mil studs and #8, self-
drilling screws for thicker studs.
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Service Panel

In order to gain a flat surface to attach the service panel, a piece of 18-mil track may be
attached over the studs. A wood 2 x 6 may be attached between the studs above the
panel to provide a nailer for securing wiring entering the panel (see Figure 9).

Duct Work

Hangers

Hangers for ducts can easily be attached to steel framing with ¾- inch, #8, self-drilling
screws.

Bulkhead Framing

Although most ducts can be run in attic space, interior walls, or drop down ceilings,
occasionally bulkheads will be needed. Where this is desired, this framing is typically
nonloadbearng, and can easily be framed using 33 mil or thinner, “C”-shaped studs and
track. Sections are assembled the same as walls with #8 self-drilling, low-profile
screws.

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Insulation

All types of insulation, including foam sheathing, batts, and spray-applied foams are
compatible with steel framing. In many climates, a thermal break consisting of foam
sheathing is applied to the exterior. Suggested insulation R-values for various areas of
the country can be found in AISI publication #RG-9405 Thermal Design Guide for
Exterior Walls. Although spray-applied insulations are installed in much the same way
as with wood framing, some differences in material widths and attachment methods are
associated with batt-type insulations and foam sheathing.

Batt Insulation

Batt-type insulation should be installed as follows:

• Be sure to order full-width batts when installing insulation in steel studs. Batts
for wood walls are typically 14 ½ or 22 ½ inches to allow for the space taken up
by the stud. With steel framing the studs are hollow and require a full 16- or 24-
inch batt, depending on the stud spacing.
• To install the batt insulation, simply tuck one side of the batt inside the open
flange of the stud and press the other side into the wall cavity. Friction should
hold the batts in place until the gypsumboard is installed (see Photo 17).
• In some cases, duct tape can be used to hold the insulation in place until the
gypsumboard is installed.

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Exterior-Foam Insulation

There are three options for installing foam sheathing on steel framed walls:

• Use self-drilling screws with washers to prevent the screw from pulling through.
• Use construction adhesive applied to the studs to hold the foam in place before
the siding material is applied.
• Use double-sided tape applied to the studs to hold the foam until the siding is
applied.

Where plywood or OSB sheathing is used, roofing nails, screws, or adhesive may be
used to attach the foam.

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 APPENDIX
SAMPLE FLOOR PLAN/CUT LIST

720 Square Foot House

Cut List

No. Qty. Item Mils Length Notes

1. 120 2 x 4 steel stud 33 8’ 0”

2. 30 2 x 4 steel stud 33 7’ 4”

3. 20 2 x 4 steel track 33 30’ 0”

4. 12 2 x 8 steel header 54 4’ 9 ½ “ no holes

5. 10 2 x 8 steel header 54 3’ 9 ½ “ no holes

6. 2 2 x 8 steel header 54 13’ 4 ½ “ no holes

7. 40 2 x 4 steel stud 18 8’ 0” interior walls

8. 20 2 x 4 steel stud 33 10’ 0” interior walls

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