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J. J.

Pizzuto’s

Fabric Science
ninth edition

Key to Fabric Swatches

Allen C. Cohen
Ingrid Johnson

Before removing rubberbands


from fabric swatches, refer to
Mounting the Swatches.

© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.


Fibers

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
__ __
(See fabric #28) Cotton
1 Denim (blue) Cotton with stretch Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton/spandex
2 Pattern woolen (black & beige) Wool (woolen) Wool
3 Tropical worsted (black) Wool (worsted) Wool
4 Tissue faille (print) Cultivated silk Silk
5 Shantung (brown ) Duoppioni silk Silk
6 Decorative noil (seafoam) Tussah Silk
7 Linen (off-white) Flax Flax
__ __
(See fabric #78) Polyester (filament)
8 Microfiber fabric (rust) Polyester (microfilament) Polyester
__ __
(See fabric #29) Polyester (textured)
9 Pattern check Nylon Nylon
10 Shirting twill (slate) Lyocell Lyocell
11 Lining (dk. taupe) Rayon Rayon
12 Satin (dusty mauve) Acetate Acetate
13 Lamé (gold) Metallic Metallic and nylon (mixture)
14 Brushed knit (green) Acrylic Acrylic
15 Tissue taffeta (navy) Nylon Nylon
16 Shirting (stripe) XLA™ olefin Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton/XLA™ olefin
__ __
(See fabric #55) Modacrylic
__ __
(See fabric #21) Spandex
__ __
(See fabric #63) Bamboo
__ __
(See fabric #104) Ramie
Yarns

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
__ __
(See fabric #107) Monofilament
__ __
(See fabric #12) Multi-filament yarn
__ __
(See fabric #8) Microdenier filament yarn
__ __
(See fabric #83) Spun yarn (single)
__ __
(See fabric #2) Spun yarn (plied)
17 Sportswear chambray (dk. blue) Carded yarn Cotton
18 Broadcloth (pink) Combed yarn Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
__ __
(See fabric #2) Woolen yarn
__ __
(See fabric #3) Worsted yarn
__ __
(See fabric #31) Novelty yarn (slub)
19 Bouclé fabric (navy & white) Novelty yarn (bouclé) Warp: polyester
Filling: polyester and rayon
20 Butcher linen look (rust) Novelty yarn (thick and thin) Rayon
__ __
(See fabric #39) Novelty yarn (chenille)
__ __
(See fabric #47) Novelty yarn (eyelash)
__ __
(see fabric # 90) Novelty yarns
21 Puckered check Covered stretch yarn Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
__ __
(See fabric #16) Corespun yarn
22 Chiffon (pale grey) High twist filament yarn Polyester
23 Georgette (black) Crepe twist yarn Polyester
__ __
(See fabric #29) Textured filament yarn
24 Decorative furnishings (beige) Clipped yarns Warp: cotton with cotton
(clipped yarns)
Filling: rayon
__ __
(See fabric #74) Blended yarn
__ __
(See fabric #13) Fabric mixture
Woven Fabrics

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
__ __
(See fabric #22) Plain weave (sheer), (filament)
25 Lawn (white) Plain weave (fine) Cotton
__ __
(See fabric #7) Plain weave (coarse)
26 Moiré faille (pale peach) Plain weave (ribbed) Warp: acetate
Filling: rayon
27 Cord (white) Cord effect Cotton/polyester (blend)
28 Chino (mushroom) Twill weave (left hand) Cotton
__ __
(See fabric #1) Twill weave (right hand)
29 Pointed twill Broken twill weave Polyester
__ __
(See fabric #12) Satin weave (filament)
30 Sateen shirting (peach) Satin weave (spun) Cotton
31 Antique satin (taupe) Satin weave (novelty) Warp: acetate
Filling: rayon
32 Bird’s eye piqué (toast) Piqué weave Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
33 Striped lining (multicolored) Multiple effect in same fabric Warp: acetate
Filling: rayon
34 Terrycloth (white) Warp pile weave (uncut) Cotton
35 Corduroy (navy) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton
36 Velveteen (black w/ print) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton
37 Velvet (navy) Warp pile weave (cut) Pile: acetate
Ground: nylon
38 Upholstery velvet (med. blue) Warp pile weave (cut) Cotton
39 Upholstery chenille (gold) Patterned effect Warp: polyester
Filling: cotton (chenille),
polyester
40 Eveningwear dobby (black) Dobby weave Acetate
41 Natté damask (white) Jacquard weave Cotton
42 Upholstery jacquard Jacquard weave Warp: polyester,
Filling: cotton (chenille),
polyester
43 Gauze (hot pink) Yarn distortion Cotton
__ __
(See fabric #9) Color effect in weaving
Knitted Fabrics

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
44 Jersey knit (white) Jersey (coarse) Acrylic
45 T-shirt knit (dk. green) Jersey knit (fine) Cotton/polyester (blend)
46 Fancy jersey (white) Tuck stitches and needle out Acrylic
construction
47 Shaggy knit (maroon) Laid-in yarn Nylon and polyester (mixture)
48 Interlock knit (blue) Interlock Polyester
49 Rib knit (pink) Rib knit (2X2) Cotton
50 Interlock knit (stripe) Ribbed Cotton and polyester (mixture)
51 Printed lamé Metallic print Polyester
52 Knit terry (orange) Loop-knit (uncut) Pile: cotton
Ground: polyester/cotton
(blend)
53 Knit velour (pink) Loop-knit (cut) Pile: cotton
Ground: polyester
54 Argyle jacquard Double knit White: cotton/polyester (blend)
Grey: acrylic
55 High pile knit (fake fur) High pile knit Modacrylic
(spotted)
56 Thermal knit (beige) Patterning with tuck stitches Cotton/polyester (blend)
57 Sheer tricot (black) Tricot (sheer) Nylon
58 Tricot jersey Tricot Polyester/rayon (blend)
59 Satin tricot (white) Satin tricot Nylon
60 Sports jersey (white) Tricot mesh Nylon
61 Raschel casement (pink) Raschel casement Nylon
62 Tulle (pale yellow) Raschel (sheer) Nylon
__ __
(See fabric #68) Raschel lace
__ __
(See fabric #76) Ponte di roma
__ __
(See fabric #77) French piqué
Other Types of Textiles

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
63 Woven bamboo Bonded material Face: bamboo
64 Nonwoven interlining (black) Web nonwoven Polyester and rayon
65 Fusible nonwoven interlining Fusible web nonwoven Polyester and rayon
(black) (polyester dots)
66 Felt Felt Wool and rayon
67 Needle punched felt (plaid) Needle punched nonwoven Polyester
68 Raschel lace (silver) Raschel lace Polyester and nylon (mixture)
69 Eyelet fabric (white) Embroidered fabric Polyester/cotton (blend) with
nylon embroidery

Dyed Fabrics

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
70 Greige goods Greige goods Cotton
__ __
(See fabric #2) Yarn dyed
__ __
(See fabric #10) Piece dyed
71 Iridescent taffeta (lavender) Cross dyed Warp: acetate
Filling: rayon
72 Plain shirting (almond) Union dyed Polyester/cotton (blend)
73 Puckered shirting Yarn dyed, plaid pattern Polyester/cotton (blend)
Printed Fabrics

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
74 Printed check (blue/white) Printed woven design Cotton/polyester (blend)
75 Printed plaid Fall-on effect Warp: polyester,
Filling: polyester/cotton
(blend)
__ __
(See fabric # 36) Overprint
76 Ponte di roma (yellow) Overprint, pigment Polyester
77 French piqué (stripe) All overprint Polyester
78 Calico type (print) Blotch print Polyester
79 Brushed knit (white)* Fabric prepared for printing Polyester
__
80 Heat transfer print paper* Heat transfer print paper
81 Printed knit* Heat transfer print Polyester
82 Burn-out print (white) Burn-out design Nylon and rayon (mixture)
__ __
(See fabric #51) Printed lamé
__ __
(See fabric #108) Printed flock
__ __
(See fabric #112) Metallic print effect
*Courtesy of Textile Trans-print Corporation

Textile Finishes

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
__ __
(See fabric #25) Bleached
83 Drill (olive) Suede finish Cotton
84 Flannelette (print) Brushed (napped) finish Cotton
85 Water repellent activewear Water repellent finish Nylon
(rust)
86 Chintz (apricot) Glazed calender finish Cotton
__ __
(See fabric #30) Simple calender finish
87 Moiré taffeta (antique blue) Moiré finish Acetate
88 Plissé (med. blue) Pucker effect Cotton/polyester (blend)
89 Seersucker (white) Seersucker Cotton
__ __
(See fabric #18) Mercerized and compressive
shrinkage finish
__ __
(See fabric 107) Stiffening finish
Special Fabrics

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
90 Novelty suiting Multiple yarn types Silk
91 Unique knit Open construction Cotton
92 Glimmer organza (red) Sparkle effect Nylon
93 Rip stop fabric (olive) Rip stop Nylon
94 Allover flock (navy) Flocking Flock: nylon
Back: cotton
95 Poplinette (red) Supplex® nylon Supplex® nylon
96 Puckered jersey (celery) Crinkle effect Polyester/spandex
97 Quilted material (black) Quilted material Shell: nylon
Lining: nylon
Filler: polyester fiberfill
Scrim: nylon
98 Vinyl rainwear (red) Waterproof vinyl coating Face: vinyl
Back: rayon
99 Leather look (tan) Vinyl Face: vinyl
Back: polyester/rayon (blend)
100 Polar Fleece® type (black) Double brushed fabric Polyester
101 Luggage fabric (olive) High denier yarn for high Nylon
performance
102 3-D design Optical effect Mohair/wool (blend)
103 Marine fabric (burgundy) Coated fabric Nylon
104 Nainsook (red) Ramie Ramie
105 French terry (blue) Lay in yarn Ground:cotton
Lay in: polyester/cotton (blend)
106 Placemat material Plastic coated Nylon
107 Buckram Stiffening finish Cotton and polyester (mixture)
108 Flock print Flock print Cotton/polyester (blend)
109 Designer jacquard Accessory fabric Face: nylon and rayon
(mixture)
110 Gingham Organic cotton Organic cotton
__
111 Fancy jersey Multi-color surface
112 Tricot print (pale blue) Metallic print effect Polyester
113 Eveningwear jacquard Reverse surface effect Warp: rayon,
Filling: actetate
114 Double cloth Double cloth Warp: polyester,
Filling: cotton and polyester
(mixture),
Chenille: rayon
J. J. Pizzuto’s

Fabric Science
ninth edition

Swatch Kit

Allen C. Cohen
Ingrid Johnson

Before removing rubberbands


from fabric swatches, refer to
Mounting the Swatches.

Fairchild Books
New York
Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
Assistant Acquisitions Editor: Amanda Breccia
Senior Development Editor: Jennifer Crane
Associate Art Director: Erin Fitzsimmons
Production Director: Ginger Hillman
Senior Production Editor: Elizabeth Marotta
Cover Design: Erin Fitzsimmons
Text Design: TronvigKuypers
Page ii photo: Stephen Sullivan

Copyright © 2009 Fairchild Books, a Division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.


All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be
reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval
systems—without written permission of the publisher.

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2009925081

ISBN: 978-1-56367-857-8
GST R 133004424
The binder for this book is made of 50% post-consumer plastic.
Printed in the United States of America
TP08
Contents

How to Use the Fabric Science Swatch Kit Assignment 10 / Woven Fabrics:
Assignments To Create Basic Weaves
Mounting Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets Assignment 11 / Woven Fabrics:
Using the Pick Glass and Pick Needle To Study a Fabric with an Uncut Pile Weave
What’s in a Fabric Name Assignment 12 / Woven Fabrics:
Assignments To Determine “V” and “W” Shape Cut
Pile Interlacings
Assignment 1 / Fibers:
To Relate Fiber Properties to Product Use Assignment 13 / Woven Fabrics:
To Reproduce a Fabric Weave on Design Paper
Assignment 2 / Fibers:
To Show Variety of Types of Assignment 14 / Knitted Fabrics:
Fabrics Made of the Same Fiber To Determine Knitted Fabric Structure
Assignment 3 / Fibers: Assignment 15 / Knitted Fabrics:
To Evaluate Textile Absorbency To Determine Properties of Knitted Fabrics
Assignment 4 / Fibers: Assignment 16 / Dyed Fabrics:
To Identify Fibers by Solubility To Determine the Degree of Dye Penetration
Assignment 5 / Fibers: Assignment 17 / Dyed Fabrics:
To Calculate Percentage of Fiber Content To Determine Stage of Dyeing and
Possible Dye Class Used
Assignment 6 / Yarns:
To Evaluate Yarns Assignment 18 / Printed Fabrics:
To Evaluate Printed Design
Assignment 7 / Yarns:
To Examine Different Yarns of the Assignment 19 / Textiles for Interiors:
Same Fiber Content To Examine Railroading of Upholstery
Fabrics
Assignment 8 / Yarns:
To Determine Yarn Structure Assignment 20 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Finishes on Textiles for
Assignment 9 / Woven Fabrics: Interiors
To Analyze a Woven Fabric Structure

A v F
Assignment 21 / Textiles for Interiors: Assignment 27 / Analysis of Fabrics:
To Examine Fabrics for Down-filled To Analyze a Fabric
Cushions, Quilts, or Pillows Assignment 28 / Fabric Performance Testing:
Assignment 22 / Textiles for Interiors: To Determine Tests to Perform on Fabrics
To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Curtains for a Specific End Product
and Draperies Assignment 29 / Fabric Performance Testing:
Assignment 23 / Textiles for Interiors: To Determine the Durability of the Fabrics
To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Interiors Assignment 30 / Fabric Performance Testing:
Assignment 24 / Analysis of Fabrics: To Determine Fabric Wrinkle Resistance
To Produce Fabric Patterns Assignment 31 / Fabric Performance Testing:
Assignment 25 / Analysis of Fabrics: To Determine Colorfastness Properties of
To Compare Covering Power Fabrics
Assignment 26 / Analysis of Fabrics: Assignment 32 / Textile Laws:
To Analyze the Color Effect of a Woven To Develop Appropriate Labels to Satisfy
Fabric Design Federal Laws

C ontents

A vi F
How to Use the Fabric Science Swatch Kit

T he Fabric Science Swatch Kit has been assembled


to supplement the study of textiles. The swatches
and assignments will enhance your understanding of
length and width directions. (The long swatch direc-
tion is the fabric length.)
The swatches have been organized in approxi-
the principles described in the textbook. This Swatch mately the order in which they will be studied: fibers,
Kit is designed to accompany the Fabric Science, Ninth yarns, weaves, knits, dyeing, printing, finishing, etc.
Edition, text. However, it can also be used with the Before removing rubberbands from fabric swatch-
Fabric Science, Eighth Edition, text and any textile es, refer to Mounting the Swatches (see below).
science textbook and in an introductory level textile The Fabric Science Swatch Kit also contains a
science course. Key to identify the swatches by number and fabric
Most of the fabrics contained in the Fabric Science name, description and fiber content; Assignments;
Swatch Kit have been obtained from the marketplace. Fabric Sample Sheets for mounting swatches.
They have been sold to apparel or interior furnishing
manufacturers and eventually have appeared in stores
as textile products (e.g., jackets and decorative pil-
Assignments
lows). The assignments are designed to reinforce the text and
The 114 fabric swatches included in the Swatch classroom lectures. They are developed to broaden your
Set represent examples of every major type of fiber, understanding of the key concepts concerning textiles
yarn, weave, and knit as well as examples of dye, print, by involving you directly in problem solving. Successful
and finishing applications. Examples are also provided completion of the assignments will help you develop
for more recent materials such as microdenier fiber, lyo- skills of observations, analysis, and report writing.
cell fiber, and special purpose “high tech” fabric such as The assignments are straightforward and basic.
XLA™ olefin stretch fiber and Polar Fleece® type fabric. Extensive laboratory equipment is not required. Suf-
In addition, fabrics made of eco-friendly fibers, such as ficient information is provided for work to be inde-
organic cotton and bamboo have been included. pendent of a classroom environment.
The swatches have not been “pinked,” but left For assignments that are to be completed in the
with straight edges to make it easier to remove yarns classroom, read the assignment before coming to class.
(this is necessary for fabric analysis). The rectangu- Use your textbook to review the related material prior
lar form has been chosen to correspond to the fabric to the class meeting.

A vii F
Mounting the Swatches on Fabric Using the Pick Glass and
Sample Sheets Pick Needle
Materials: Set of swatches; Fabric Sample Sheets; dou- The pick glass and pick needle have become universal
ble-stick tape or masking tape (3/4-inch wide); scissors in their applications in the field of textiles and cloth-
The Fabric Science swatches have been placed in ing. Designers, technicians, students, and teachers
numerical order in the proper positions for mounting. have found them to be important tools for a better
Mount them on the Fabric Sample Sheets. and clearer examination of fabrics. Yarn types, fabric
The fabric number, name and color listed in the weaves, knit stitches, and cloth defects can be more
Key are in the same sequence as the swatches in the easily identified through the proper use of these items.
packets. To make mounting your swatches simple and The pick glass (enclosed in this Swatch Kit) and pick
foolproof, follow these instructions: needle are particularly useful to determine the yarns
per inch in woven fabrics or the stitches per inch in
1. Do not remove the rubberbands from the packets knit fabrics. (Fabric construction is a measure of fab-
until you actually begin mounting the swatches. ric quality.) A pick needle can be obtained from:
2. The swatches are packaged in two separate pack- Fashion Institute of Technology
ets. Packet One contains swatches 1–54; Packet College Bookstore
Two, 55–114, and every 10 swatches are separat- 227 West 27th Street
ed with tissue. New York, NY 10001
Packet One: Telephone: 212.217.5690
Fibers (1–16) Fax: 212.217.5691
Yarns (17–24) e-mail: sm712@bncollege.com
Woven Fabrics (25–43)
Knitted Fabrics (44–54)
Pick Glass
Packet Two:
The pick glass (examining glass) or linen tester is
Knitted Fabrics (55–62)
composed of a frame, magnifying lenses and a mea-
Other Types of Fabrics (63–69)
sured opening in the base opposite the lenses. When
Dyed Fabrics (70–73)
the pick glass is opened properly, the measuring lines
Printed Fabrics (74–82)
on the base are visible when looking through the
Textile Finishes (83–89)
lenses.
Special Fabrics (90–114)
Fabrics to be examined should be placed on a flat
3. Carefully remove the rubber bands from Pack- smooth surface. The surface must be well-lighted.
et One. Keep the packet upright. Mount each The open pick glass is placed on top of the cloth and
swatch as you see it—face up and longer sides viewed through the lens section. The user’s head and
vertical. (Do not turn the swatch over; some fab- not the pick glass should be raised or lowered for bet-
rics have a face and back.) ter focus.
4. Cut a two-inch piece of tape. When using mask-
ing tape, fold the piece in half with the sticky side Pick Needle
out. Apply the tape to the back of the swatch, The pick needle (examining needle) is usually com-
with the two ends of the tape pointing downward, posed of a holder with a needle attached. When it is
about 1/2 inch from the top of the sample. The not in use, the needle should be reversed and placed
tape will make it easier to remove swatches for inside the holder, thus insuring that the point will not
assignments and experiments, and to return them injure the user.
to the Fabric Sample Sheets. The pick needle may be used in conjunction with
the pick glass as a pointer for counting yarns per inch
5. Press the swatch with the tape in place on
in a fabric. It may also be used independently, for
the Fabric Sample Sheet. Cut and remove any
opening a yarn to see if the dye has penetrated suf-
loose yarns extending beyond the edges of the
ficiently. (Using a pick needle will help answer a ques-
swatches.
tion such as—Are the fibers in the middle colored or
6. Write the fabric name, number and fiber content still white?)
on the Fabric Sample Sheet.

H ow to U se the F abric S cience S watch K it

A viii F
Fabric Science Swatch Kit: Fibers / Assignment 5

To Calculate Percentage of Fiber Content


Materials: Set of swatches, pick glass, pick needle, scissors, acetone*, small glass container (beaker), gram
balance, worksheet
A. Select from the swatch set a fabric with a fiber content of acetate and another fiber (e.g., acetate and
rayon).
B. Cut a one-inch strip form the bottom of the swatch.
C. Using gram balance, weigh the strip as accurately as possible (to the nearest milligram/mg accuracy).
D. Place the strip in the glass container. Using the pick needle reduce the fabric into fiber form.
E. Pour acetone to cover the material completely.
F. Allow the specimen to stand at room temperature until the acetate yarns/fibers have been dissolved.
Periodically move the fibers in the liquid with the pick needle.
G. Carefully pour off the acetone and air-dry the specimen.
H. Weigh the dry specimen and calculate the percent fiber content. Round off each percent as it would appear
on a label (e.g., 65% and not 64.9%).
I. Compute the percent fiber content using the following formulas and record the results:
(original weight – weight of remaining fibers)
% acetate = x 100
original weight

(weight of remaining fibers)


% rayon = x 100
original weight

After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabric studied.
*Nail polish removers composed of acetone must be used.

Swatch Number _________ Fiber Content _________


Original Weight _________
Weight of Remaining Fibers _________
Calculations _________

Name: Class: Date:


Fabric Science Swatch Kit: Yarns / Assignment 6

To Evaluate Yarns
Materials: set of swatches, pick needle, pick glass, worksheet
Examine both the warp (W) and the filling (F) yarns of the fabrics assigned by the instructor.
Determine the following:
1. Fiber type (staple, filament)
2. Yarn type (single, ply, cord, novelty)
3. Direction of twist (S or Z)
4. Level of twist—high (H), medium, (M) or low (L)
5. Appropriate yarn numbering system
Record the observations on the worksheet.
Repeat the procedure for other fabrics.
After the observations have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics
studied.

Twist Twist Yarn


Swatch Fabric Yarn Fiber Yarn
Direction Level Numbering
Number Name (W or F) Type Type
(S or Z) (H-M-L) System

Name: Class: Date:


Fabric Science Swatch Kit: Woven Fabrics / Assignment 9

To Analyze a Woven Fabric Structure


Materials: Set of swatches, pick glass, pick needle, worksheet
Examine the fabric assigned by the instructor and determine the following:
1. Face and back sides or if the fabric is reversible. Describe the face side or write “reversible” if the fabric
appears to look the same on both sides.
2. Which rules apply for determining the warp direction? Write two rules of identifying the warp direction that
apply to the swatch examined.
3. Yarns per inch, for both warp and filling (cloth count).
After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for each fabric studies.
Note: This assignment can be done in stages, after each topic is discussed in class.

Swatch
Face Side Description Warp Yarn Rules Yarns Per Inch
Number

Name: Class: Date:


Fabric Science Swatch Kit: Woven Fabrics / Assignment 10

To Create Basic Weaves


Materials: Colored paper (2 colors) or hand knitting yarns (2 colors) scissors, ruler, tape, worksheet
Part I
A. Select a plain weave fabric form the swatch set for the reference. Use diagrams in the textbook as an
additional guide. Using strips of paper or hand knitting yarns, create a plain weave.
B. Cut 12 strips of paper or lengths of hand knitting yarn of one color and 12 strips of lengths of another color
(a total of 24). The strips or lengths should be about 4 inches (10.16 cm) long and about 1/8 inch (.32 cm)
wide.
C. Tape the ends of paper strips or yarns of one color to the left side of the plain-weave box on the worksheet
so that they are side-by-side.
D. Weave the strips or yarns to create a plain weave.
Part II
Same procedure, but create a twill weave.
Part III
Same procedure, but create a satin weave.
Part IV
Same procedure, but create another weave (e.g., basket or rib).

Name: Class: Date:


Tape Tape
12 12
Ends Ends

Tape 12 Ends Tape 12 Ends

Plain Weave Twill Weave

Tape Tape
12 12
Ends Ends

Tape 12 Ends Tape 12 Ends

Satin Weave Other ________________________


Fabric Science Swatch Kit: Woven Fabrics / Assignment 13

To Reproduce a Fabric Weave on Design Paper


Materials: Set of swatches, pick glass, pick needle, point paper (graph paper)
Using the point paper show the weaves of those fabrics assigned by the instructor. Indicate two repeats vertically
and two repeats horizontally.
After the weaves have been checked, show one repeat of the weave on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics
examined.

Name: Class: Date:


Fabric Science Swatch Kit: Printed Fabrics / Assignment 18

To Evaluate Printed Design


Materials: Set of swatches, pick glass, pick needle, worksheet
For each printed fabric in the swatch set determine the following:
1. Name of the print: e.g., direct or blotch
2. Print type: wet print (dye) or dry print (pigment)
3. Number of rollers or screens required: one for each color applied
4. Possible printing machine used: roller, flat bed, rotary
Record the observations on the worksheet. After the observations have been checked, record the information
on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics studies.

No. of Possible
Swatch Fabric Print Type
Print Name Rollers/ Printing
Number Name (Wet or Dry)
Screens Machine

Name: Class: Date:


Fabric Science Swatch Kit: Textiles for Interiors / Assignment 20

To Examine Finishes on Textiles for Interiors


Materials: Set of swatches, worksheet
Each fabric in the swatch set designated as a drapery and/or upholstery fabric has been treated with either an
aesthetic or functional finish.
Examine the swatches and list the finish as aesthetic or functional, and suitable end use (drapery or upholstery).
Identify the properties contributed by the finish.
After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for each fabric studied.

Finish Properties
Swatch Fabric Use
Fabric Name (aesthetic/ Contributed by the
Number (drapery/upholstery)
functional) Finish

Name: Class: Date:


Fabric Science Swatch Kit: Textiles for Interiors / Assignment 23

To Examine Fabrics Suitable For Interiors


Materials: Set of swatches, worksheet
For each of the interiors’ fabrics in the swatch set, identify which are in the following categories:

jacquard weave:

dobby weave:

solution dyed:

yarn dyed:

piece dyed:

printed:

Name: Class: Date:


Fabric Science Swatch Kit: Analysis of Fabrics / Assignment 27

To Analyze a Fabric
Materials: Set of swatches, pick glass, pick needle, worksheet
Select a fabric and complete the following information:
A. Fabric name and number
B. Fiber content
C. Type of yarn (spun, filament, or novelty)
D. Twist direction in yarn (S or Z)
E. Number of filaments in the yarns, if a filament yarn (use pick glass)
F. Yarns per inch or stitches per inch in length and width direction (average of 5 measurements each)
G. Type of weave, or if a knit fabric, type of stitches in cloth
H. Fabric weight (ounces per square yard)
I. Method of dyeing (e.g., yarn dye) or type of print (e.g., blotch print)
J. Type of finishes
K. Any other information that can be learned about the fabric (e.g., degree of cover)
L. Write a paragraph or several sentences about a possible end use for this fabric and why you feel that this
fabric would be satisfactory for this end use (based upon your analysis).

Name: Class: Date:


Fabric Science Swatch Kit / Fabric Sample Sheet

Swatch Number Swatch Number Swatch Number

Fabric Name Fabric Name Fabric Name

Fiber Content Fiber Content Fiber Content

Yarn Type Yarn Type Yarn Type

Weave/Knit Type Weave/Knit Type Weave/Knit Type

Yarns/Stitches per Inch Yarns/Stitches per Inch Yarns/Stitches per Inch

Method of Coloration Method of Coloration Method of Coloration

Finish Finish Finish

End Use End Use End Use

Notes Notes Notes

Swatch Swatch Swatch

© Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.


Fabric Science Swatch Kit / Fabric Sample Sheet

Swatch Swatch Swatch

Swatch Number Swatch Number Swatch Number

Fabric Name Fabric Name Fabric Name

Fiber Content Fiber Content Fiber Content

Yarn Type Yarn Type Yarn Type

Weave/Knit Type Weave/Knit Type Weave/Knit Type

Yarns/Stitches per Inch Yarns/Stitches per Inch Yarns/Stitches per Inch

Method of Coloration Method of Coloration Method of Coloration

Finish Finish Finish

End Use End Use End Use

Notes Notes Notes

© Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.

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