DIDNT OM MCV aa wre | rd *PLUMBING TOOLKIT ‘here are three main types: auto- pattern, gitder-pattern and crescent- pattern, Auto-pattern _adjustables (used on cars) and_girder-pattern spanners have slightly different mechanisms, but both suffer from the same disadvantage as. far as plumbing is concerned, which is that they ate difficult to use on a pipe close t0 a wall. The better choice here is a ereseent-pattern spanner ‘which has angled jaws so that it can be reversed in tight comers. Since ‘wo spanners are invariably needed for tightening or loosening. a joint, the best solution is probably to have two different designs. Bath/basin spanner Ds ws Getting at the uts which hold the taps in place under baths (or basins) ‘soften awkward. Here a bathbasin spanner (also called a erowsfoot spanner) is needed — it comes in two sis. the nut is really tight, a metal bar can be used to inerease the twisting force on the spanner, but there is a considerable risk of crack- ing ceramic basins by doing this; try the gentle application of heat to Toosen the nut first. Basinwrench Another type of bathvbasin span- ner ~ called a basin wrench — has two sizes of serrated jaw. The head is joined to the handle with an adjust- able joint so the tool is good for getting into almost inaccessible cor- ners. The good grip and long handle also enable it to move most nuts that other tools won't budge. Bending spring ‘The type of copper pipe most com- monly used in plumbing is not easy to bend by hand. Not only is it quite tough, but the pipe will distort as you bend it. A bending spring is slid down inside the pipe for support as it is bent across the knee. Bending springs have a loop on one end (so that they can be pulled out of the pipe afterwards) and come in di ferent sizes for different pipe dia- meters. Bending machines If you have a lot of pipe to bend or if you want to bend stainless steel or 28mm copper pipe (both too rough to bend by hand), the best answer is to hire a bending machine. These machines usually cope with two or three different sizes of pipe. Bending machine Blowlamp For soldered capillary fittings, a blowlamp is necessary. Modern gas blowlamps are cleaner and safer to use than the old-fashioned paraffin type and, for most jobs, the type which is fitted on to a disposable cartridge is perfectly adequate. An alternative is a blowtorch connected by alhose to a cylinder of gas. This is rvore expensive to buy, but the torch part is lighter to handle than a blowlamp and you don't have to ‘worry so much about running out of fas halfway through a job. Although you have to cart the cylinder around ‘with you, there is a bonus in that a bloweorch can be used upside down to get under a pipe which is being fitted in situs turning a carteidge-fed blowlamp upside down can cause problems as it will flare. A blowlamp (or blowtorch) is also usefull where a nut seems impossible ii i “To dislodge from its fitting, due swually 10 dried-up jointing com pound. Heat will sometimes free it. Don's, however, use a blowlamp for Lunfreezing pipes or nuts close to ceramic basins or pressed steel ot 15PLUMBING TOOLKIT plastic baths: a hairdryer (or yariable-heat hor-air gun on its low setting) may be more appropriate. Hotair guns ean also be used for making soldered capillary joints special reflector nozzles are available for most brands to spread the heat around the pipe The electrically operated Antex Hecvic dil Pipemaster is another tool which makes soldering joints safer and ‘casi, Ir comes with a choice of jaws Drills for different sizes of pipe. An electric drill is essential for ‘Always have a fire extinguisher plumbing work: there are a lot of handy awhen working with a blow- holes that need to be made in walls lamp, Failing that, a wer towel can either to pass pipes through or to sinorher an accidental fire. You can secure pipe clips or to support get (non-asbestos) mats to protect _fitings such as basins, central heating Noodwork and prevent it scorching, boilers and so on — and making these i much easier with an electric drill Floorboard lifter fitted with a masonry drill bit. When you need to get at the space Choose one with two speeds (or under floorboards, some kind of tool variable speed) and hammeraction. for lifting the floorboard is essential "A hand drill has its uses, too: Good choices include a bolster chisel making holes in tanks, for example, or a broad wrecking bar. Ifthe tool is is sometimes a job best done at low (00 narrow, it will damage the floor: speed ~ soe hole cutters. board. Smal hand dil Files Floorboard saw Blowtorch and Cold chisels ‘To run pipes through walls ean mean making medium or large holes in them, An electric drill fitted with a ‘masonry drill bit ean be used to make a start, but sooner or later you may have to resort to a cold chisel and large ‘cub’ hammer, Round rata When a floorboard is difficult to lift ‘or when you only want to take up 3 short piece, a floorboard saw is helpful. le ight he necessary to lever up the floorboard while it is being in walls isa core drill, which is rather cut, and if the floorboards are Tike a hole saw with tungsten car- Files are used in plumbing principally tongue-and-grooved some tongues Core drill ‘The ideal tool for making large holes bide-tipped teeth, Available for hire for getting rd of burs on the ends of need ro be cut off. The best tool for aaa pence of sizes, a core drill will cut pipes and for making the pipe this is a circular saw set so that the ‘ke out a ‘plug’ of masonry with ends square. The two most useful blade only just protrudes beneath the Iitde damage to the wall. Irneeds a types are a small round rat tail file floorboards ~ beware of electric heavy-duty hammer drill to drive it. and a second-cut half-round file cables below! 16 a