Вы находитесь на странице: 1из 28

MINIS'TERIG DE INDbiSTRIA.

TURISMO Y COMERCID

El!Jp[lflof'~("'~'WI tpOI~r.l r,J€,rLllo:Hiul b.Horo P"38-L1TIUI,

R

)

,

J

f.

2

AparOHCK&.1Vt nyTb

4

<Dpa H LlY3CK &.1111 KOpOneBCK 1/1 iif Hasappa

na PVloxa

6yproc

naneHCVlfI

neOH

ralllllCVlR

.QpyrL.1e nyTL.1 nplll6pe)!(HblLii ny-rb BOCT04HbiLii nyrs AHrm1VtCKVlLIi nyrs nOpryranbCKL-111t nyrs

~

nyTb

8

12 17 20 25 27 33

38 38 43 46 47

BBeneHLde



B813 r, B cepaue raml(lIIlII, 3eM11111 Ha rpao csera, OTwenbHVlK na~o 06HapYJKIIIBaeT Morlllny AnOCT011a RKOsa Crapuiero, cblHa 3eseAeA, KOTOPbllii, cornacao neresne. kpecran JKIIITenelii cesepnoa 4aCTill nlllpeHeliicKOfO nonyocrposa. Jlere-uia raxxe rnacur, 4TO nO(11e TOlD, KaK eMY OTCeKnI-l rOIlOBY B naneCTIIIHe, ero TeIlO norpysuna ua 6apKY, rAe HaXOAIII11HCb ABa ero Y4eHIIIxa, III sra 6apKa caMa nplll6111naCb K 6eperaM fan IIICVI III , a 3aTeM no peke Y 11bR nOAHRnaCb no naAPOHa. n ocne pAga nepa neTlll1ii reno 3axopOHIII11111 Ha rope fl1ll6peAOH. nOCTeneHHQ 06 nOM 3a- 6blnlll, noxa OTWenbHL1K He 06HapY»:lIIn MOrIllJlY.

Y41-1TbiBaA TaKylO KpaclIIBylO nereuny. HeyglllBIiiTenbHO, 4TO Morlllna AnOCTOJlOl crana c MOMeHTa ee OTKPbIH1R 3H8KOBbiM MeCTOM Anfl acero xplllCTlllaHCKoro Mlllpa. nOA06HO PIIIMY 11111111 lI1epycanlilMY ropon KOMnOCTena, KaK MarHIIIT, npnenexan nanOMHIIIK08 co acero CBeTa, xorcpue XOTeJlIII npOIIITIII 3S8311HOlii uoporoa, YKa3blBaeMolii Mne4HbiM nyreM, 4T06bl nonY4111Tb QTnYll\eHllle csoux rpexos. KaK ,lTD CA8na11, no paCCKa3aM, caM IIIMnepaTOp Kapn Ben III KIllIii, KOTOPOro HapOAHaA TpagHI1I-1f1 uasusaar nepeonpoxonuev nyn! Anocrona HK08a.

nOMIIIMO csoero IWX08HOro 3Ha4eHlllfl, nYTb Anocrona flKOsa, 06bflBneHHblill L\oCToflHllleM YenOBe'1eCTBa, orna-aercn 60nbwolii IIICTOplll4eCKolii ljeHHOcTblO: OH (Tan l1eHTpOM cjJOpMlllposaH~A eaponeiilCKOH KYJ1bTYPHOIii 06lL!HOCnl nanOMHliIKItl W11l>1 1113 WBeLtwIII, nonbWIII, HIilAepnaHAOB, 111 pna HA VI III, BenwK06pHTaHIIIVI, TYPLtIllIll III ApyrlllX CTpaH, III see OHIII CXOI1V1JlHCb so CDpaHlIHIII, ~T06bl eal1HblM nOTOKOM HanpasWTbCA a fanViCHIO. n03T L\aHTe Ha3hlsan 3TOT yenOaeyeCKl11it nOTOK nlllnlllrpVlMaMIII. 111 3TOT noTOK YCIIIJ1WBaeTCR Ka»:,nbllii 106V1neliiHbllii ro,A rOAOM Anccrona HKOsa 06bAsneH ron, 8 KOTOPbllii L\eHb CSRToro HKoBa (25 >1lOnA) npI1XOAIII'TCA Ha BocKpeceHbe TaKolii rOA nOBTOpReTCl1 KmKAbie 6, 5, 6 III 11 ner, r.e 1999, 2004, 2010 III 1.):1

2

TaKIIIM o6pa30M, nanOMHI-IK HaYIllHaeT C801;; nyTb, 4T06bl HaliiTIll ce6R V! BCTpeTVlTb npyrax Hd KaJKAOM orpesse, B Ka»:Aolll mCTIIIHlIIlIe, y KaJKI10rO XOJ1MliIKa liI3 KaMHelll (MoHxoxel. snnors AO anrapa AnocT011a. KOMnoCTena - KOHeLt 3Toro MapwpyTa.

V1 :nOT ropon TblcA4eneTHelii xpacoru orxpueaercs nyreuiecrseHHHKy, KaK 3aKJlIO'1I11TenbHbll1 aKKdpA, KaK BXOA s paCl, 1(OTOPbllit Ka)K):!bliii (MOr C03AaTb Anfl ce6R.

3TO nyreurerreae nO-HanoRllleMY Ha'1V!HaeTCA C nlilpeHeliiCKIIIX rop. Ha nepeaanax 3TVlX rop (XO):!ATCfI MapwpyTbl esponeHcKliIx nWnlllrpli1MOs: 1113 Be3ne III nIllMo:+::a, 1-13 fie nlOlII III 1i13 Typa III 50PAO npoxonar sepes HasappcKwe nlilpeHeli1, a MapwPYT 1113 TynY3bl nepecexaer ropu B paliiOHe CaMnopTa (Aparos).

COBpeMeHHblVr mmfi1rp/l1M

3

AparOHCKlI1VJ nyrs

l J epes nepesan COMnopT (1632 M) npoxOAVIT Mapwpyr, Ha4M.. HalOll1L>1~CA B Iynyse V1 npOXO}:lflUjL>l~ sepes J:lpeSHVliII EieapH. 3TOT npoxon (peAL>I rop orcpuaaer nYTb Ha KaH/.laH'-IY VI KaHcjJpaHK. PflAOM C nocneAHeCi rOpHOJ1blJ+:.HOCi ITaHUVleili aoseuuaeTCR 3aMOK Konb ne Jlaapouec, B HaWVi AHVI OT KpenOCTVI KaHAaH4Y Vl OT TaK Ha3blsaeMOIO CDpaHKCK:oronarepR OCTanL>lCb JlVlWb PYl1Hbl, OAHaKO B 3TVlX MeCfax ecrs MHOIQ Apyrl-1x 3acny;t;I-1- saouiax noceUjeHIiIR AOCTOnp"ME'4aT€nbHOCTeCi, MHor"e Vl3 KOTOpax pacnonoxeaa Ha coBpeMeHHblx ropaonuxsux CTaHl(11Rx.

LJepeAYIOUj11ecA KaMeHVlCTaA nopora VI acrpansroaoe uiocce npVlBOAAT K xopouro coxpaHVlBweMYCR 3aMKY Xaxa, B03- HWKweMY B XII B. Ha nVipeHeilicKoM nyTVI VI B03seUjalOllIeMY

o npl16blTVIVI B KorAa-TO MorYlllecTseHHYIO CTonL>lUY xoponeseTBa Aparou - roPOA xaaa

HeCMOTpA Ha seCb KOMCPOPT cospeMeHHO(Tl1, 3AeCb He 3a6blnl-1, 410 B XI B. 3TOT ropon 6bln KOnbl6eJlbIO Kopone~ V1 AO cux nop coxpeuaer Befll-1YI-1e cooPYJI<eHI-1Jii poveucxoro CH1JlR, TaKViX KaK Co60p CaH neAPo, (blfpaBWM~ B csoe BpeM~ TaKylO 3Ha4V1TenbHYIO pons B 1-1 CTOp Vi Vi. B Cotiope pa3MeUjaeTcR speaeuya~HO ueHHbl~ EflapXMallbHbl~ MY3e~ C Heo6blYHoili KOnlleKUl-1e~ cpeAHeseKoBoili Jl<l1BOnlKVI (poMaHcKo~ VI aOraTVlyeCKoi;1). Jlpyrlile npOVl3BelleHVlR VlCKYCCTBa, TaKVle KaK uepxoss Caursaro. 6eHeAVlKnlHCKI1~1 ;t;eHcKML'i MOHaCTblpb (,1 CpeAH€BeKOBbl~ MOCT, CBMAeTenbcTBYIOT 0 6neCTRUjeM npoumov ropona, Era MoryUjeCTBo cOXpaHAJ10Cb ItI B 60J1ee n03AHitle speMeHa, 0 yeM rOBopMT kpenOCTb CblOAaQena - BenV1KonenHbl~ npVlMep BoeHHO~ apXMTeKTy-

3aMOK XaKa. YJCKa

Pbl, nOCTpoeHHbl~ no npl1Ka3Y C!lil1llwnna II B XVI e. Ee xapasrepHaR flATMyronbHaA cpopMa 6pOCae1C'1 s rnasa 1'13llalleKa.

Ha Bble3Ae 113 ropona KdMeHHblM MOCT 11 rrpens-araa apxa CaH ML>lrenb YKa3blBalOT nyr6 Ha or, YTO HeMHoro n03J1<e nOATBeplKAaeT YKd3aTeJlb. Ilopora cnycKa€TCR no Jl<I-1BOnItlCHbIM CKnOHaM, nepecexasr pyLJbI1 11 peyywKw, KdMeHWCTble pycna, a nepen flla3aMW pacKpblBalOTol 4YAecHbie neM3alKVI. CpeAM rop nOFlBnReTCR CaHTa ClIInlllR lie Xaxa, CKpOMHbl~, yxolKeHHbl~ nOCeJlOK, rAe KOrAa-TO 661n MOHaCTblpb HenOAaneKY pacnonoxeu MOCT Pe"Ha lie Xaxa, OTKyua wocce YXOA11T Ha 5epAYH, OCHOBaHI-1e «rroporo TepAeTCR B rny- 6i11He BeKOB M KOTOPbl~ (Mor coxpaHVlTb xaparrep cpeAHeseKOBoro nOCeneHI'1R, YTO Hel-13M€HHO npVlBneKaeT nyreweaseHHViKOB.

3aMOK XaB/>.epa, C<iHfY3Cil. Heeepp«

!l.anee HeaCcjJanbntpOBaHHaR nopcra npOXOi1VlT yepe3 noCenKIil Appec, MbRHOC Iil ApTeMll.a. nOcne aoaoxpauaruuua li"1eca nopora nO):1XO,QIilT K roP0,QKy CaHrYJCa .. OH 3ilHIilMaeT nplilBlilnerlilpOB.aHHoe nonoxeaue Ha nYTIil,6naroAapR KOTOpO" My B Cpej:jHlile BeKa ropOAOK CaHryxa npoussran 0 era 6blnOM nOIlL'lTI1'leCKOM Benl1'llillil CBlill1eTenbCTByer MOHYMeHTanbHaR apxnrerrypa. KilK cseTCKilR (60raTble AOMa no ym1UE' Pya Ma~op, cpeAIil KOTOPblX aunensercs nsopeu npasua BbRHCKOro), TaK VI LjepkOBHaR. 3A.eCb cneayer ynOMrIHyTb C060PHYlO LjepKOBb !leBbl Maplillil Jla Peans, ,):1,1" nO'fIilTaeT(R 06pa3 CSI1TOL1 Maplili'l POKaMaAopcKO~, KynbT KOropOI1 6bJn BseAeH nanOMHIilKaMVlIil3 POKaMaAopa (IO)i(HaR <DpaHUI1A). LjepKOBb CaH <DpaH" CIilCKO VlMeeT senViKonenHYIO ron14eCKYIO ranepao. a B LjepKBVI CaHTbAro MO)i(HO YBVlAeTb pOMaHCKlile 11 lOTW-leCK.lile pocnuca ua TeMy Anocrona RKOBa VI iMHorOI1BeTHbl1il TViMnaHlO)I(Horo noprnxa, HCl KOTOPO'M npeacraene« Anocron s oAeRHHI1 nHnlilTpl1Ma VI MHO)i(eOBO paxyuiex

3Ta 3eMn~ ornn-iaetca cnOlKHblM penbecjJOM. Vl XOTA OH rpeover OJ nYTeweCTSeHHI1Ka onpeneneuuux YCI1f1HI1, OHVI KOMneHCHpYIOTCA KpacvrBeillwl1M.VI BI1i1aM~, HanplilMep, ( XOJ1-

6

Ma nO~TI.o1 K BO(TOKY orkpuaaerca nauopaua TeCHIilHbl, npopblToili peKoliI VlpaTVI Ha yposue JlyM6bepa. HenOAaneKY HaXOAVlTCA rope V1ra Il€ MOHpeanb B SViAe yce'feHHoro KOHyca, C KOTOpolil OJKpblBaeTCA BViA Ha nnOAopOAHble HaBappcKlile AOnl1Hbl, npl'i5m1lKalOt11Vl€ Hac K Mony na PeiilHa, 4epe3 KOTOPbl1il npoXCiAIilT <DpaHUY3CKHL1. KOponeBCKVliIi nYTb. Ha cnYCK€ sctpesaerca euie Oi1HH rOTL'lYe(KIilL1 KaMeHHblili MOCT, nocrpoeHHbl1il cneuaansao ):lnH naJlOMHIilK.OB.

3a He(~OnbKO Kli1nOiMeTpOS ):10 OKOHyaHVlR Aparoucxoro nYTIil CTapHHHal1 nopora nplilBollV1T nanOMHI1Ka K He50nbwoill OpV1fH" HanbHoili LjepKBVllleBbl MapJ.1111 3YHaTCKOM, OCHOB3HHOfi xpaMOBH'1KaMI1,60cbMVlyronbHoliI, K3K CIBATa~ rp05HHLj3, Bee CTOpOHbl KOTOPO~ npIilBJl€K3IOT BHIi1MaHIi1€. OHa OKpY;'l(eHa Heo6bIYH0L1 OTKPblTOIiI 3pKa1lO~, KOTopaH nana I1MH uepKB14 (Ha 6acKCKOM H3blKe eunate 03HaYaeT(j(TO eopor»), Teneps nl1Wb 06aHOC 01- uenser nyrHI1Ka01 ollHoliI 113· era fn3IBH blX uenea. PaCCKa3blsalOT, 'ITO I1MeHHO 31l,eCb Anocron AKOB cosepuian O):lHO 1il3 CBOVIX caMblX 3HOIM€HI1TbIX YYA€C -YYi10, CBfl3aHHoe co ClBflTOL1 (])enVlLjlileL1 VI CBRTblM rl1nb,eHOM, TaK)!(e1il3BeCTHoe KaK 06aHoccwe raVlHcTBO: auren 3aCTaBI1fl A3blyeCKOfO 6yprYHAcKoro rpacpa rVlnb€Ha noKilATbCA B CBOVIX npecrynnE'HL'lI1X, Kpecn1TbC~ y AKOBa L'l CTaTb OTwenbH VI KOM-rocn IilranbepOM.

MHOroo6elLlalOlLlee nOCpeAHI14E'CTBO Anocrona aoonyurean ~ er nanOMH'; KGB K €):!VI HeHI4.1O CO rpOM Hbl M 4€nOBE'4€CK VI M nOTOKoM, Ha3bIB.;l€MbIM <DpaHl.jY3(KIi1Jii KOpOn€SCKVliIi nyn,

• MOCT na PeMHa. HaBappa

<Dpa H UY3CKlIlll1 KOpOIleBCKlIlll1

CaMbl~ nOnYJlRpHb114 MapwpyT, BeAYll.\I<1Ci K Anocrony RKOBY, - 3TO TaK Ha3blBaeMblVi <DpaHUY3CKL-ICi KoponeBCKwlii nYTb, HaYI'IHalOll.\W~UI B HaBappCKV1X nWpeHerrx V1 coeaWHRlOwwlii MapWpYTbl V13 n~MO)j(a V1 ne nlOV1, a raxxe Ty '-IaCTb TypCKOIO Mapwpyra, xoropaa npoxonar '-Iepe3 BHYTpeHH\'Ie paliiOHbl nonyocrpcsa, a He no nobepexuo

Ilepsere HaBappCKwe HaceneHHble nYHKTbl, 'lepe3 «rrooue npOXOI1RT nanOMHWKV1, - 3TO nycaifae-BanbKapnoc W OppearaPonceaans. 3TVl Ha3BaHL1!l Bbl3blBalOT B naMrtHI Bee nereunu, KOropue CBA3blBalOT (03AaHVle nyrVi C I1MnepaTOpOM KapnOM BenlllKIIIM, lle~CTBVlTeJlbHO, naJlOMHV1K MOlKeT nocnenoeare no rronau 3HaMeHl'lTOro IIIMnepaTOpa OT ropouxa BanbKapnoc, rue, no npel1aHlllrtM, OH pa36111n narsps nocne nopaxeuna, noaeceauoro OT apaccxoro npaaarens ropona Caparoea. rOBopm, '-ITO, nonoopae reno caoero nneMl1HH\i1Ka POnaHl1a V1 noxopouaa ero, Bi'Jl\i1KV1V1 Kapn nan Ha KOJleHV1 Ha XOJlMe 1116aHbeT3, rne.asren YKa3aneMY 3Be3QHbl~ nyrs KaJ( eAwHCTBeHHbll1, BeAYll.\V1Ci K np0ll.\eHV1lO B Haw V1 QHI'I Ha 3TOM MeCTe B '-IeCTb 31Oro c06bITV1 A YCTa HOBfiI;H pa3YK-

f1ycai1~e-BanbKapnOc. Heeeppe

8

lleoxoe» CaHTbflro. Oppeara-POHceBanb. Haeappa

paWeHHbl11 KpeCT, a raxxe COTHV1 ManeHbKI>1X_ KpeCTOB, xoropue npoxonaume MV1MO sepYlOl11V1e BOTKHynl'l B 3eMnIO

Ha 3TO~ nV1peHet'icKo~ 3eMne cnenu Kapna BenlllKoro scrpeyalOTCA Ha Ka)(AOM wary no BceMY MapwpyTy KaK B caMO~ reorpacj:JV1V1 (npoxonu, «oropue, KClK roBOPl1T, npopy6vlJl B CRanax (a6ne~ caM PonaHA), TaK V1 B Ha3SaHIlli1X TBopeHIllt'i -renoae-reCKL1X PYK (MOH.aCTbIPb CaH Cansaanop ne ltI6aHbera, rne pausuie HaxOAl'lnaCb TaK Ha3blBaeMaA '-IaCOBHA KapnCl BenV1Koro V1 npaor PonaHAa). K 3TOMY cnenyer 1106aB~Tb oonee Jl03AHV1e AOCTonpl1- Me4aTenbHoCTV1, TaKl1e KaK MOHOJlIIIT III nocnexa nepsoro puuaps (Ponauna), ca6nR AypeHAanA V1 ABe 6ynaBbl, HanOMV1HaIOUjV1e B V16aHbeTe -0 rep0114eCKV1X neAHI>1HX cppaHKOB,

BHWMaHllle, korcpoe nanOMHIIIKVI yaenrrnlll roPWCTOi4 \I16aHbere, B pacusere CpeAHeseKOBbA 6blno nepeueceuo, 6n<!fOAapR CTapaHV1l1M enno.ona CaH'-1O V13 Jlapporu, HCI (OCeAHIOIO necIIICTylO H yeAV1HeHHYIO MeCTHOCTb POHcecsanbec, y nOAHO)(bA KPYTOCi ropu, rue npcacxouuna xpoaasaa 6L'1TBa, aocneraa B «ttecHe 0 PonaH/je». Torus 6blJla norrpoeua KoponeBCKall cooopuan uepkoas ):jesbl lVIapV1V1 POHceBanbCKO~, KOTopaA, XOTA VI 6blna

9

3ppo. Hasappa

OCHOSdTenbHO peaaBp~pOBaHa, coxpaaana (BOM IOTVl'1eCKVli/i CT~nb. 3):!eCb xe HaxOAVlndCb 60nbHVlI.(d H [JocneAHHI1 np~IOT, rue xPdH~nVlcb ooaHKH nyTHI-IKOB, VlMeHosaBwVl~c~ 6awHfl Kapna Ben~KOIO, KOTOpylO HapoAHafl TpaAVlL1l-1fl HanpflMYIO csasuaana C 6V1TSOV; npu Poucesane. B il.OBepweHl<le srero a (0- KpOBI1U1HVlue sucraaneuu WaXMdTbl Kapna Ben!.1KOro, npaena. sblnonHeHHble B peHeCC2lHCHOM CHine. HeMHoro Aanbwe nyTb npoxonur B03ne Kpeoa nanOMHVlKa - naMflTHVlK8, C03naHHoro no o6eTY B HapOAl-ioili TpaAHI.(H~.

Hsxoropue TYPHCTbl npennovaraor. ecnVl :310 nossonner norona. OTCTynHTb OT nereunapuoro MdpwpyTd VI npoCiTVI no uopore Hanonecaa. PscCKa3blBsIOT, YTO soaanapr saxoten v136eltaTb CYAb6bl Kapna Be.n.~Koro, n03TOMY OH Bbl6pan repHble npoxonu, no KOTOPblM BeCHOCi wnkl naCTYXI-1. 3TO OyeHb KpaCHSblH nyTb c senl-1KOnenl-lblML1 BI-I):IaMVI. Ilopora Ha'1V1HaeTCfl BO cppaHUY3CKOM ceneHHH' CaH Mlilwenb ne Bbe i4 -epes 6YKOBblili nec BeAeT Hd nepeaan Jlenosnep (1440 M). OnYA~ no ropav OHa HanpaBnAeTCA K CKaMb~ POnaHlla Ha XOIlMe lt16aHbeT<;l. 3TOT nyrb no 60nbwe~ 'laCTVl He npOXOI1HT no WOCcen npenocrasnser nyrHliIKy B03MO::t::HOCTb HaCna):lVlTbCfl CO- 3epLlaHVleM ropuux nelii3altelii nl-1peHeeS,

BTopoili sran MapwpYTa HaYI'IHaeTCil nocne npox.o>K):teH~.A ropuoro xpeora VI sener K naMnnoHe. Ilopnra 3AeCb I'IAEn necdM,

10

npoxonsvepes ceneHVlR AYPHTc-Eyprere H 3ppo C em crpens'-IaTOH 4aCOBHeiil, a raxxe MHorHe npyrlile, 60nee cospeMeHHble HaceneHHble nyHKTbI, HanpVlMep, Cy6\11plII.

B nocenxe Ilappacoausa euie yranusasrca era 6blnoe sena'IVie B pasaannuax MOHaCTblpfl H npl-1lOTa, KOT6pb~Lii KorAa-TO TaM HaXOAVlIlOl. nYTeweCTBeHHI-1K MO)KeT TaK:t:e cosepuars TaM npoVl3BeAeHVlil VlcKYCtTsa, rakae KaK Pa36o~H\II'-I\IIJII MOeT yepe3 peKy Ap ra. KOTOPbl LiiCpel1.HeBeKOB ble nyre weerseH H Ii1 KVI CTa panl-1Cb o60~TH liI KOTOPbllii B re BpeMeHa cnQCOQCTflOBan (03,[1aHI-1IO pacnpocrpaneuaoro, HO nexuoro copasa HasapPbl KilK onarHoiil crpanu. Ho BpeMeHa MeHJlJQTCfl, Vl COSpeMe'HHbliil nyreuieCTBeHHHK xopowo 3HaeT, 'ITO OH acrynaer B OIlHY 1-13 caMblX npnaruux clBTOHOMHblX 06nacTeili Ha nyrl-1 Anocrona RKOBa.

npoliiAfl MOCT Ca6anbl'1.V1Ka, nYTeweCTBeHHHK nplil6nVl)KaeTCA K ropcuy Appe, fAe H€):IaBHO 6bJn pecraapupoaan 'KbMnneKc ~(TpOI-1Llbl Apps», KYlla BXOI'1V1T l.(epK.O.Bb, MOn i4 rotTI-1H~l1a AnA na[lOMHIIIKOB, ARyme TP"SAIi1I1110HHbl€ ccopyxeuaa, a raxxe BO):jRHblE' MenbHl-1Ubl. HeMHOIO):Ianbwe pacnonoxena BlllnbHBa (noceno«, rile pO,[1HnCfl 3HaMeHVlTbiGi B€nOCHneAliICT MVlr8Ilb \!1HllypaVlH). nYTeweCTBeHHt-lK npVlOnl-1)l(aeTUI K BopOTaM rocTenpH~MHOCi naMonOHbl

MrrO'lHI'IK nWlO'irpMMoB. Oppeere-Pouceeen»: Heeeppe

11

Haaappa

Bb€3A B IOPOA naMnnoHa n1PYHbR) BeCbMa 10p)t(€aS€HeH VlHaye V1 6blll:; He MO)l(el, laK. KaK 310MY roPOAY 2000 ner, iii OH COXpaH!4n CBOe O'lapOBaHL1€. BHa'lane -ano npoexars -epes cpenHeBeKoBblL'i Moa Marl1.anE'Ha., CB.~3aHHbllli c nyreM Anocrona liKOsa (YKa3alenbC 65pa30M Anocrona t OAHOH croposu). a 3aT€M npoexars tKBo3b roPOI1CKYfO aeHy. no TpaAfiUV1f1 CHa'ldna Hdnpa.BnAfOTCR B Ki:lcj:J.eApanbHbl.Vi co6op, rue paHbwe pa3MewanCfl nplilfOT CaH MVirenb. 3AaHV1E' 6 (TL'ine cj:lPaHL1yacKo(;l fOTV1KV1 C 3neraHIHbiM HeOKnaccwlecKHMcj:lacaAoM nOClpOeHQ Ha. cj:lYHAaMeHle nepsoro co50pa B pOMaHCKOM CTL1lle. BHyrpl'! ,sblllellAeTCR Kpa.cVlBaA ~OTL1- 4€CKaA ranepes V1 BXOAH3R naeps. a raxxe orpaHW.JVleaiOwl-lVi anCL1AY Hecj:J, xapaKlepHbl1li QJlR 3.QeWHVlx nocrpoex.

Ilanee Mii,pwpyr npdxOAVIT no ynVll(e KYPI-lR AD Ha'lana ynV1- Ubi MaViop, rAe B03BbIWa€TCA pOMaHCKaA I..I€P)(OSb CaH CepHL-IH, Ha ranspee KOTOPOC! eCTb 06pa3 Anccrona nanOMHW-leCT13a K MorL-lne Anorrona RKoBa HanO;t;V11l111 omeY'ClTOK HOI 3TDl ropon, nOKpPBIiiTenbHV1uet:1 KbTOpOIO aensertnIleea Mapio1A nyr~ Anonona (eCTh ee 'laCOSH~ npl'l l1epKBI'I CaH CepHI'lH) io1 B Ka.)t(AoM xpaMe xoroporo I'IMelOTCA V1306pa;t;eHV1R AnOCTonaRKoBCI, HanpL'lMep, B uepKBio1 CaHTO nOML'lHIO OT Asepe~ AO anrapa.

Be3Ae I'IM ei01CR YKa3aTen L'I nYT\i1 HOI KoMnoCTeny (CTpenK\i1

B Bl'Il1e 3Be3Abl) V1 ra 6n!1Y:KH C Hd- 3BClHV1llMV1 ynl'lq, nyrb rarxe npoXOA14T S03ne qepkEi14CaH Ilopeaco, rue HaXOAl'llCR 3HaMeHI'ITCIll yaCOSHR CaH <DepMI'lH.

Bble3):! Vl3 ropoAa - yepe3 3C1MKOBbIVi CSOA, oKpy:+::alOll1l'1Jii xopowo cbxpaHvrswYIOCIl «penorn, CbiOAaAeny. 3aT€M nopora npOXOl1io1T 'Jepe3 leppL1lDp\i11O YHV1se:pCV1TeTa VI BbIXOlwITi<. MOCTY sepes peKY Canap, KOTopaA BHOSb OCTaSnfl€T nyrHV1KCi B 0111'1- HO'lecrB€ Ho nopora OT CTonVlWbl HaBapPbl CTaHOBliIlCIl YAo6HOIii. Ha nyrVl ecrpe-aerca MHO:KeaBO

Kaq;eIlpanbHbll4 co6op naMnnoHbl

12

AOCTOIiiHblX BH \i1MaH V1f1 rOTW-leCKlilX na MATHlilKOB B roponax CLIICYP (l..IepKOBb CaH AHApec), ACTpalliH !1 Jlerapaa. 3AeCb uopora npaBOAVIT K Mecry, rue CXOAATCR nsa nym (HaBapPCKIllIii io1 AparouCK!1I1) 14 06piBYiOl eilVlHbl1ii nOTOK <DpaHlW3CKoro KoponeBoKoro

nyrn: 06aHO( neped MOCTOM Jla PeL1Ha. ..

Hi! MOtT J1a PeViHa MO:t::HO nonacrs C ynVlUbl Maliiop C 60ralblMV1 AOMaMI'I 1'1' He6onbwV1MVI IlS0pwaMV1 C 6e3ynpecIHoCi Ol):jE'IlKOCi. HOI 31y ;t;e ylll'lwy BblXOAvH L1epKOBb 31lb KpyCficj:J14xo, C006iljiliOll1aACA C roCTVlHl>lI..l£'1ii An~ nanOMHVlKOB 'Jepe3 ron"lY€cJ(YfO apKY. TaM xe pacnonoxes xpaM CElHTbA[O 3nb MdI10P, BHYTPvr xoroporo HdXOAV1TCfl 3HaM£'HI'ITaA cKynbnTypa Anocrona, 1113BeCTHall B HapoAe KaK «EienbTCil»). MOCT Jla Pel1Ha, cnerxa V130rHYTbJCi, C uecrso CSOilaMH - 3TO npoaseeneuae L1CKYCCTBa OH nocrpoea S pOMaHCKOM crane Ilpoexas LJ€pe3 Hero, nonanaeun, BHOBb Ha ynVlWY Mai4op.

xopoume YKEl3aTenl'l, xaparrepuue AnR scei4 Haaappu, n03- sonaor nerko Il,06paTbCA 110 3crenbVl 'lepe3 He6onbWV1e CeneH14~. B ClllpaYKIII, CkpOMHOM nocenre Hd SepWV1HE' xonua, xopouio (0- XpaHVlJlV1Cb cnell61 Cp£'IlH£'SeKOSbA, kaK S pacnonoxeuaa ynio1U, TaK VI S repanbAVIKe .AOMpS. Crear cnOKOtliHO o6bL'iTVI noceno«.

3AeCb VlMeeTC~ uepcoss CaH POMaH B pOMaHCKOM crane

V1 C CLKTepCKIIIM!1 MOIV1BilMV1, B «oropcaecn pOMaHCKVliiI anraps. XYAOlKeCTBeHHb'li4 aHcaM6nb nocenra nononuner MOCT, 301 KOTO-

Monecrup« IIIpa4e

tiepxoe« CaHTa MapvrR, BMaHa

pblM l-ta'lI'1H8eTCA peKoHcrpyL1pOB8HHa~ I1peSHepVlMCKaA nopora. no KOTOPOI1 MO;t::HO nerxo cnycrVlTbCA e XO(lM8.

3CTeflbR (nlo1cappa) - 3TO aropoa IlO 3Ha'-leHIIIK:I nyHKT, KOropu Vi Ha3blB8 K:IT CeB€pH blM Toneno 1113-3a era 8 pxare KTYPH blX naMATHI'1KOB, nanOMHl-tKM BHa'-lane noceuiaor uepxoes C8H MVirenb, pOMaHCKlII11 xpaM c 01nbHbiM rOTVlyeCKV1M BflV1AHV1eM (KOHeu XII B,), B KOTOPOM Bbl):1eJlAeTCA ceBepHblV! nopTV1K C 1-130- 6pa;t::eHI1AMVI csarux (naHTOKpaTOp, Apxasren MVlXa14n VI AP.). a T8K;t::€ rOTVlyeeK1111 np14A€n, I]anee nanOMHVlKVI nepexonsr

K peHeccaHCHOMY cj:loHTaHY Ila MOi-la, a 3aT€M - K ):I80PUY CaH KpL1CT06anb (c cj:lacaAoM e CTlllne nnarepeoo) VI K eenViKonenHOMy 14 He06blYHOMY ASOPUY H8e8ppCKI-IX xopcnea, 06pa3UY poM8HCKOiii rpa)l('):IaHcKoiii apXI'1T€KryPbl nL1peHelilcKora nonyocrpoaa, C Vl306pa:+:::€HL1eM nereanapuux soeHHblX cueH.

5ecKoHe4Hbi iii en L1COK apXvITeKTypH"lx nElMATH IIIK08 3CTeJ1 bL1 ):10nOnHReTCJ1 npV1xoAcKVlMVI UepJ<saM(,j CaHTO Cenynxpo. CaH neA-

floc ApKOC

po ):Ie na Pya, CaHTo I]oMIiIHra 1'1 no.. a TaKJKe BenViKOnenHOI-1 6a3V1- I1V1K0I-111eBbl MapVlVl POKaMaAopcKoiii.

3CTenbA - 3TO nOClle):lHVlV! KpynHblH HaBappCK14iii HaCe11eHHb11-1 nyHKT, nome xoroporo nanOMHV1KV1 HanpaSJ1~IOTC~ B ropoi; norPOHbO e aBTOHOMHOI1 06naCTL1 Ila PIIIOX8. Ho AO 3TorO OHL1 nepeceKYT nnonoponaue QonlllHbl Hasappu. rne BblpaU!VlBaIOTC~ cj:lPYK~ Tbl VI BIllHorpall CneQYK:lU!aR ,J:IocronpWMe'laTenbHOCTb - ~CTOYHL1K V1pa4e, P'RQOM C HWM pacnonoxeu YYAeCHblV! MOH8CTblpb Ca-rra MapvlR Jla Peanb BE'CTfOTCKOro npowCXO)l(,J:IeHL1R,

Teneps nYTb nponeraer no uiocce. anons KOTOporo HClXOARTCR I1CTOpWyeCKVlE' nocenrn. HanpV1Mep, He6onbwoe yxpenneHHoe CeneHI1E' Blo1flbflMa110p Ae MOHxapAIIIH. novuauree Kapna BeJlVlKoro (rOBopAT, "ITO 60pOQaTbilii VlMnepaTOp 3aXBaTWI1 ero), Vlnlll ApeBHepVlMCK14H nOCe]10K floc APKOC, B apXVlTeKType xoroporo COyeTalOTCA pa3nL14Hble eTVlnVl (pOMaHCKaA uepKOBb CaHTa MapMA IIIMeeT raTVI"IeCKVle 6aWHIO VI ranepeio. a €'e VlHTepbep pacnVlcaH B crane 6apoKKO),

8 uepKBI'1 nocenxa Toppec Aenb PIllO CHOBa npcoaarpasaerCA TpaAViU14A lpooa roi:noAHA, npOABneHHaA B BocbMVlyronbHoM npodiune, KOTOpaA npuuina 1-13 CBRTOt::! 3eMDH VI KOTopaR Y'lr<e Ha6J11ol1anaCb B 3YHare. K8K VI TOT CKVlT, xpaM CaHTO CenYI1Kpo KOfAa-TO pacnonaran orpOMHblM cj:loHapeM Hil sepWV1He 6aWHI1, KOTOpaA cny;t::wna nanOMHVlKaM MaAKOM

15

Kacpei1panbHblilJ co6op ropona flO,POHbO

BlilaHi3 - no(ne/:jHVltii HaceneHHbl~ nyHKT HOI TeppViTOp1111 Hasappu. B 3TOM ceneHVlVl, KOTOpoe B ApeSHOCTVI 6blflO norpaHI1'lHbIM (11 Ki3K TaKOBoe 6blno YlSpenfleHO), CTOVIT OCMOTpeTb KpacvlBeiiwylO KacpeApanbHYIO uepxoas (aHTa MaplMI npel'lMyl11eCTBeHHO B rOTl1yeCKOM elVine (KonOKonbHH, Hecpbl 11 (SOAbl), HO C 6apOYHbiM HecPOM HaA ancHlwi71 VI C anCl1AanbHblMII1 '-IaWBHllMVl. no BViaHe 6pOAL1T AYX llesaps ,50 PA>KVI<l , kbTOPblili 6blfl noxopoueu B nOpTVlKE> sroro xpaua; B HawVI AHVI 0 ero ocraskax HVlY.ero He V131lE'CTHO. TeM He MeHee, I-IMeeTCH naMHTHI1K nOMy npOTVlBojJe'lIllBbMY IIICTpaCTHOMY yeflOBeKY·

PfI.QOM co (KlHOM Ilac KY:lBac (paHee npaor .QflH nanOMHvlKQB XII B) 11 COCHOBblM 60pOM - pexa L1 Bbe3A 8 aSToHoMHylO 06naCTb Jla Pwoxa_

1'6

Ila p.,oxa

r

Jla Puoxa - He60nbwaH aSTOHOMHaH 06naCTb ( 6oraTotii npaponoa L1 VlcTOpVletii, KOTbpaH curpana orpOMHylO porn,

B cfiQPMVlPOB~lHl1l1 nYTL1 Anocrona IkoBa. n03TOMY HeYAVlBVITenbHo, 'lTO, nonaaas Haee repparopao. naIlOMHI1KV1 O)l(VI):jalOT MHorbro. OetiiCTBlI1teilbHo, nocne npOXO;t(.QeHI1R uepes norpa!-HNHbl~' MOCT nepen HL-IMl-I paCKPbI6aeTC~. nanopava oecKpaClHL1X oropoaos 11 caAOB, H8nOMI1HalO~II1X 06 I1CKnlO'lvnenbHOM Ka'leCTBE' MeCTHblX OBO~el1 (cnapxa, apmWOKIi1 VI OCO- 6eHHO Cn8AKL-II1' nepeu), 0 BKyce cppynoB ('-1epeWHH, rpywVl Ii1 nepCIi1KI1) Ii1 0 BceMVlpHOMIi13BeCTHOCTL1 BI1H. EcnVl K 3TOMY Ao6asL1Tb ;,;:apeHylO 6apaHVlHY 11 asnenue OKOpOK8. TO MO>KHO nOnYYL1Tb npe.QCT8BIl eH VII" ° K8'-1eCTEie. MeCTHO~· KyXH 111.

nepeViAIl '"Iepe3 yxe nonHDBO.QHYIO peKy 36po no KaMeHHOMy MOtTY, nanOMHVlKOK,a3b1EiaeTCfI B CTOnHue, repone IlorpoHbO. 3TO He60llbw.ol1 roPOA. KOTOPbltii p83BVlBancR no Mepe yBenL1'"1eHWR 'lViCna naIlOMHI1KOB. He):j8pOM ro BOp HT, 'ITO Jla PI10xa oonuue scero cB~3aHa C nYTeM Anocrona HKOiBa: ee apXII1TeKTypHble naM~THI1KVI H ee nereHAbl nOATBeplKAalOT OtTO. OCMorp ropona Ha'"lI1HaeTCfI ( UepKBVI (aHT8 Mapll1R .l1enb nanacl'1o, nocrp6eHHoH B X B .. ,OT KOTOPOtii COXP8HI'1JlOCb I-IE'MHoro. B H8WVI i1HI'1 MOlKHO YBII1AeTb nVlpaMVlAanbHYIO ~rny ee KonOKOnbHI1. roTlI1yeCKw.H KpeCTOBbitii (BOn VI peHeCC8HcHblG1 npl1l1.en,a T8K);::e piiA cPpeCOK XVIII S., L1306pa:>KalOlUI<IX CTpaCTVl rocnO.QHVl_

TaKltte cnenyer OCMOTpeTb UepKOBb CaHTa Mapl1H na PellOHna. BOCbML1yronbHoe 311.8Hl-le XV S., norrcoeuaoe Ha cpYH/l8MeHre npyroro CpE'IlHeBeKOBoro xp8Ma

MOHaCTblpb /Oco. CaH MMflbfJH pe na KoronbfJ

rOTVlyen:aR npVlXOACKilH LlepKOBb CilH 5apTOflOMe - caMaR ApeBHRR, 3Aecb VlMeeTCR CKYIlbnrypHblH KOMIlIleKC (caMblH 3Ha~ YLneIlbHblH B Jla PV10xe), npeACTaBIlAIOU1V1H CBRTOro BapdionoMeR. Enb 111 xpaM CaHTbflrO 3Ilb Peans, aa I{)>KHOM rroptnxe KOroporo KpacyeTcH CKPOMHblH peHeccaHcHblH 06pa3 Anocrona llKoBa-nanoMHV1Ka, a TaK1Ke era 6apOYHOe 11306pa;"l(eHVle B 06- pase nQ6eJ:1V1TenR MaBpoB, 3m HilnaMVlHaeT 6LHBY npVl repone Knalll1xo (pacnOnO)l(eHHOM HenOllaneKY), B CKlHax VI xpaMax KOroporo nOYVlTaeTUI BMewaTeIlbCTBO Anccrona i'lK08a B 844 r., KorAa, no npe.aaHI1IO, OH Ha 6enoM K.OHe 6pocl4nc!1 Ha B,Oi1CKO A6AeppaxMilHil VI o6ecne<'H'I/l n06e):lY xpViCmaH,

nOnA Ila PI10XVI senyr K ropony Haaappere, Hi! KnaA6111.ue KQroporo Haxoj:\AT(A pa3Banl1'Hbi npnora AnR llanOMHI'lKOB, Ero roTVI'-IeCKVlH nopran Vlcnonb3yeTcfI B HawVI AHVI npVl 3axopoHeHV1Rx, na aopcre B ropoa Haxepa nanOMHI'lK ecrpe-aer eute OI1HO HanOMI'lHaHL1e 0 cppaHLlY3cKOM puuape - CKaMblO PonaHAa.

Haxepa JjOKil3blBaeT TecHYIO CBR3b MeJKIW nOnl'lTMKQH VI peIll'lfVlei1 B. npouinue B.eKa, -iepes 3mT ropou no npL'lKil3y xopona nponer npVl6peJKHblH MilPWPYT nYTVI AnoCTona., nocKonbKY 3):!12Cb Haxo):!VlncA KoponeHcKVli1 ):!BOp. B repone orxpusaerca MOHacrupsCaara MapVl~ Jla Peanb (B HaWI1 i:!HI1 - cppaHl.(V1CKilHCKI1i1) C YYJ:1eCHoi1 ranepeea, nonpoeHHOH B Ka'1ecrBe nanreoua MdHapxoB, rue nOKOflTCfI OcrilHKL'I 6naHKI'l HclBapPcKOH, MOHacrblpb TaK)tie CIly:i(vn npVl6e.:l<V1ll1eM .llnA nanoMHV1KoB; 3Aecb nOYVlTaeTCH YYAOTBOPHblH 06pa3. no npel1aH!41q, OXOTWBWl1l1CfI pb11lapb oAHa)K!lbl npecnenosen rony6KY, «oropaa sasena ere s rpor, file OK 06HapYJKI1Il oceeweHI-IM1 naMnaAoi1 06PiH 60ropOAlilUbl. PRAOM, y '1(JWI1 C V1pV1CaML1, CKpblsanaCb rony6Ka.

YYAeca, KaK CBR3aHHbie c AnOCTonOM, TaK. 11 APyrV1e, Hepel1KI1 B :nVlX MeCTax. - OT KnaBI1XO AO CaHTO ,[IOMVlHro ne na KallbcaACl, KyAa MOJKHO Ao6paTbCR no napVlHHOH nopore. Bo BpeMeHa, KOfAil nlOlll1; HL1kYlla He TOpOnL1IlV1Cb, BepylOllIV1M He CQCTa6Mflb rpyIla OTKnOHVlTbCR OT OCHQBHDfO nyru. npoi1A~ Acoq,py, 11 uanpa-

Anreouoe yKpaweHWf; B WepKBYJ

fla ACYHCbOH. HaB<}ppere

CaHTO jJOMIIIHro IJe ne KallbCaIJa

r

BllTbCA K MOHa(Tblp~'M lOeo 1'1 (yeo B repone CaH Ml1llbAH ne rta Koronsa. 06bRBneHHbiM ,iloCTOAHl1eM YenOBeyecrBa, a TaK*:e K. HaXOIlRllIeMYCR HenoAaneKY MOHaOblpfCi CaHTa MapLllfl ne nac KaHbflc. BceoHV1 HaxOAATCA y nOAHO)Kb~ xpeora. B rrapue BpE'MeHa nanOMHL1KH wnV1 ryAa He V13-3a 1l1060nbITCTB8, a '1T66bl nOKnOHV1TbCfl penL1KBV1AM,

PaCKpblBalOlllaflCfI paBHVlH8 B03BE'lllaE'T 0 npL16IlH)I(eHI1V1

K ropO,QKy CaH"TO ,IlOMIIIHTO j:le na Kanbeaj:l8. MOlKHO', CKa3ilTh, Y"FO BeCb rbp0,QOK - 3TO np0V13SE'AeHL'lE' nbMHHro (JlOMV1HV1Kil), WHJKeHepa XI. s., KQTOPbli1 nOCBATI111 CBOIO %IHHb I1HcppaCTPYKrype 3TO~ MenHocHl, lJT06bl 06nerYHTb niinOMHHlJeCTB0, 3m He60flbwoe, HO xopouio OCHallleHHoe noceneuae: crenu. ~o- 1II,eHble ynLIILlbl, !lOM Anocrona Afll'I nanOMHI1KOB VI rOCTHHI1l.(a

All A, Tpe6o.saTenbHblX TypHCT08. ECTeCTeeHHQ, eCTb KacfJeApallb. Hbl~, cooop taH Canseanop. rne, nOMVlMO MOrL'lnbl (BRTOro, HMeeTCR KypRTHV1K, HanoMVlHalOllIVlH 06 OAHOM 113 caMblX. 3HaMeHL1TbIX yyi:!ec Anocrona RKOB8., PacCKa3b1BaKlT, '"ITO no Bone AnOCTOlla YJKe IlpVlIOTOSlleHHaA nruua O)KV1na, '1T05bl Ao~a38:rb HeBVlHOBHOCTb IOHQrO llV1nHrpI1Ma, uecnpeaennaso 06BVlHeHHO: ro B BO'pOBCTse. OTCIOA8 noroeopxa; B C.lHTO l/OMMHfO lIe!la KanbCai/a 3anE'n 3M:apeHHb1M neryx.

1I133Toro roponsa Bble3JKilIOT no KaME'HHoMY Mony, TilKJKe nOCTpoeHHoMy (BflTb'IM DOMI<1HVlKOM, B HanpaBneHI<ILII rpaHbOHa. 3TO nOCnell,HLllGi HaceneHHblH nyHKT B Jls PLlloxe., III B HeM euie MOl+lHO nanlO6oB8TbCfl 1l0CTOnpVlME'YaTellbHOCTblO 3TOH o6h8cT11- KpaCI1BblM aiHapeM 3noxVi B03pOJKAeHVlfl B npVlxoAcKOi1 ueJiK;BIII.

19

CaHTOBeHMfI De OKa

.liyproc

I 1

Sbe3.A B KaCTVIIWHO Ka)KeTCR HeM Hom crpaHHblM (npoctas Ta6- nV1'lKa nocpeun nopora). OAHaKO ne~3a)K BCKOpe MeH~eTCA, ):laHHaA MeCTHOCTb He IIIME'eT HI1'1ero 06lLlE'rO c LllleTYlLlV1MVI AOJ]VlHaMV1 Ila PVlOXVI_ Mbl HaXOAI1MUI B npOBI'IHLlI1V1 5ypro[, VI anpens nyrHV1K 6YAeT cosepuars He6ofibWl-1e CeneHl-lA nocpeua 6ecKoHe'-lHo~ 3anlllTOIit COnHl1eM paBHI1Hbl C KOnfO'1KaMI1_ lt13peAKa BCTpeyalOTCA XOfiMbl Vl3 KpacHoro 113BeCTHRKa, a KonOKOfibHIIl npVlxoAcKI-lX ueps- 6el1 yKa3bl6alOT Ha 6nl130CT6 ceJieHl-lA_ lt1HOllla el11.e AD KOnOKOnbHI-l MO;(i-Io yBV1J1eTb ronosy, a 3aT€M VI J1nIo\HHbl~ npoqJVIhb aViCTa.

CnOKOIitH blM nellt3a:t: III KaiYLUaflCA CKpOM HOCTb. ceneu VI lit He AonlKHbl BBOAVlTb B 3a6nY;;:j:1eHvie, nocKonbky sa )TV1MVI crporuMV1 cjJacanaMV1 3a'lacrylO CKpblBalOTCA (okpoIlViLUa. 3TO xapaxTepHO I"\nR nepsoro ;+:€ HaceneHHoro nyHKTa - PeAeCl1flbR Aenb KaMIoIHO, B uepKBI1 KOTOpOro I1MeeT(f! pOMaHCK3.R Kynenb C BVI- 3aHTllllltCKI1MVI MOT.I1BaMVI. B I1Pyrolii KYrlefWI (B l1epKBVI nocenka

B V1IlOPI1H) 6bln Kpellle H CBHTOL4; ):lOM 11 H VI K

HeMHoro nan bwe pacnonoxen CTapl1HHbl1ii rOpOl1ciKEienopa.110, 'reCHO cBfl3aHHhilit C nYT€M Anocrona flKoBa. 311ec6 I-1MeeTC~ pRA apXaneKT)'pHbiX naMi1THMKOB, B TOM 'lV1C/le p~npyweHHbllii MOCT VI pa3BanV1Hbl npaora Jla Ml'lcepV1iCOPAV1a.

20

HaSbe3):1e COXpaHl/lnGI (KVlT Hy3tTpa CeHbopa ne OeneH, sosBe):leHHb11it Hd pYV1Hax npmora 1/1 uepKBI.I1 CaHTa Mapl'lfl 11 CaH flenpo. B uenrpe Eenopano eCTb c/laBHaA nnOlLlal1b Ilnaca Malilop, rAe nyTHVlK MO)KeT OTi10XHyrb B TeH.VI.

CneAYIOIllV1L4 nyHKT - BlllnbRtPpaHKa .lie MOHTec Ae OKa.

Ha3BClHV1e roBOPIH 0 em 6neCTfHljeM npournov, xorna ,nOT ropo- 110K 6bln pe3V1l1eHLlHeVi enurxona. (0 speMeHeM H3BeCTHbiVi npalOT CaH AHTDH.VlO A6al1 6blI13a6poW12H. PaHbwe BVlnbl'lcppaHKa n0)1b308,maCb AYPHOLii cJ1aBoLii, TaK KaK 3Qecb Hd'-l!I1HaIOTGfl ropu DKa, KOTOp61e B Aa6HV1e BpeM€Ha 6blnl'l rpYAHonpOXOAiVlMblMI1 113-3a rycrux 3apocneiii. OQHdKO B -auie BpeMfl nopora parxnure-a. VI nyrb xepes ropbl B€CbMa npVlfneH. flMwb Ha CClM014 aepWVlHe ropu llenpaxa (1150 M) MapwpyT MO>KeT npeucrasnars HeKoTopYKI cnoxuocn,

(aH XyaH ne Oprera pacnonoxeu Ha rpaHVlLl€ roPHOH (I1CT€Mbl. 3TOT nccenox. oCHoBaHHbl1ii (BlHbiM liIoaHHoM, nonssosanc» cnasoe 113-3a caoero mCTenpIlVlMCTBCl; B HaWIl IIlHVI 31IleCb pacnonoxeua 8MeCTV1H'fTblfall rOCTV1HI'Il(a, rile nilnOMHI-lKilM ncuaor ,{E'CI10'lHbltll cyn .. TOT )KE' CBATOtil lt10aHH TaK>Ke nocrponn MOHaCTblpb (rue OH III noxopoaes). TaM V1M12- eTCA peHE'CCaHCHaR '1aCOBH;'l CaH HViKonac AI" 5apVl, a B MO-

em XyaH lie Oprere

21

HaablpcKOVI uepKBV1 errs ni060nblTHaA KanV1Tenb C 6V16neiiicKoVi ClieHOVl5na,OBeUjeHV1A, Ha KOTOPYIO B Hayane BeCHbl nepen 3aX0l10M conuua nanaer ny'! CBeTa 143 He6onbworo npoeva B IO)KHOiii yaCTV1 LjepKBIi1 Ii1 ocaeuiaer ee

npli1 auesne 1i13 nocenxa CaH XyaH ne Oprera I'1MeeTC)1 HeCKonbKO B03MO)l(HOCTeili nyTI'1, HO Mbl peKDMeHl1yeM Tpa/4li1- LjI'10HHbliii, T.e. '!epe3 CeneHI'1~ Axec, ATany3pKa (3HaMeHV1Toe 6naroAdpA apxeO!iOnl'1eCKIi1M paCKOnKaM) i1 KaplleHY3na. nYTHIi1K CHOBa OKa3blBaeTCl1 nepen 6eCKpaViHV1MV1 paBHV1HaMIi1 KaCTli1flli1li1, xoropue reneps V1HorAa yepePYIOTCR c neCaMIi1. OCTanOCb HeMHoro no MorYllleCT8eHHoro 5yproca.

ECTb CeneHI'1R, xoropue B03HV1Knl'1 6nar0l1apR nym Anocrona RKOBa, HO MO::t:HO CKa3aTb, '-ITO 3TOT nYTb 6blJl npcnoxes rneuaanu-o TdK, YT06bl npOVlTVI Yepe3 5yproc. 3TOT ropon, rne KorAa-TO HaXOl1l<1JlCR KoponeBCKVlIiI ABOP KaCTVlnV1V1, V1Men TaKOe

KacpeJ1panbHblifr co6op 5yproca

KaCTpoxepvlC

3Ha4eHVle, '-ITO MOHapxV1 norrapanno, npV1sne'"lb oona nanOMHV1- KOB, OTBel1R nYTb Anocrona RkOBa, roropua pauuue npOXOQV1n no arnaHTVI'-IeCKOMY nonepexuo.

B 3TOM repone nanOMHI-1K nonxes HayaTb OCMOTP no TpaQI1- 1..\1'10HHOMY Mapwpyry. no ynV1LjaM BIi1TOpVlA, KOBaAOHra V1 nac kanscanac MOlKHO ~bl~1TVI Ha nnouians CaH XyaH, B crapue speMel-!a 311eCb pacnonaranca OAV1H In TpV1ALjaTVI npVliOTOB, orxpaBaBWV1X CBOIi1 Q8epVl Qn~ nanOMHV1KOB; ceronua ua 3TQM Meal" )lOM KYJlbryPbl, COxpaHI1BwV1t'i nli1Wb IOTWleCKl'1e aopora. PAQOM

( HV1M (TOI'1T roTli1yeCKaH uep~OBb CaH JlecMec (rocnaransepCKV1f1 CBRTOVI V13 KOHrpel-aLjVlVl KIOHVI) C KpaCVlBblM IO>KHbIM nopTViKOM V1 KacjJeAPO~ B crane nnarepecxo.

-lepes aopora CaH XyaH MOlKHO npOIiITVI ua ynli1Ljbl CaH Xydl-l , rOHcanec ABenbAHOC 11\ <DepHaH Ioucanec. KOTOpaA BblXOAlIIT K Kaq;eQpaJlbHOMY cooopy CaHTa MapV1A, 3TOT nerKl'1111 1'1 B03- AYWHbl1ii rOTlll'-leCKI1t'i c060p 06bFlBneH KynbrypHblM )locTORHli1eM YenOB,e'1eCTBa. Cpel1V1 MHOrOYV1CneHHbIX XYQOlKE'CTBeHHbIX ueHHocTeiii CTOV1T OTMeTV1Tb 3HaMeHV1Tbl~ rnaBHbl1ii cpaCBij C QByMH xapaKTepHblMIi1 6aWHRMI1, QOEiOnbHo UlnbHO HanOMHHaIOUjV1Ml'1 CPpaHUY3cKI1iii cmJlb BHYTPI-1 c060p xopouio OCBeUjeH onaronapR BeJlI-1KOnenHblM BIi1TpalKaM; orxpurst see Hecpbl Ii1 uesrpansHaA BocbMl-1yronbHaR 6aWHA.

Bble311 113 5yproca - no KaMeHHoMY MOcry floc ManaTOc \Jepe3 peKy ApnaHCOH. 3ijeCb Ha'111HaeTC~ nooora Ha Kopones(KI1l1 npaior, KOTOPbl~ 610ln CBMblM 60nbWIilM ,Ha nYTVl AnoCTOna }1KoBa, HapFiAY c npl11OTOM B repone KorvmoCTena. 3gecb cnenyer OTMeTVlTb 3neMeHTbi B crane nnarepecxo (nopTI'1K)

23

III MHoro4Ii1Cf1eHHblE' 1i1306paJKeHIiIA Hd TeMY AnOCTOlla, HaYIiIHaR OT pe3b6bl no nepesy Ha ABE'pVl. HeAallE'KO OTClOAa HaXOAIilTGI MOHaCTblpb Koponesrxoro nOKOR,

HenOAB11aCTHBA BpeME'HIll npocenoxaaa uopora npOTRHY- 11aCb MeJKAY ce11eHIIIRMIiI 0PHIII11b,OC III OHTaHac, nocne koroporo OHa cnenyer '1epe3 osparn anons peKIll rap6aHCY3110 iii AOXOALIIT AO pa3BaTlIiIH pOMaHCKoro MOHaCTblpl1 CaH AHTOH. 3AeCb pa3MeLLlanCl1 yxe IiIC'-Ie3HYBl1JIiI~ MOHaweo@~ OPAeH, K.OTOPbICi B AaBHlile apeMeHa nonssoaancn cnBBOCi, TaK KaK em MOHaxLII, no npenauao. YMeIlIiI lleYIiITb raurpeuy.

Kacrpoxepuc - Tlilnl-1YHblOi nplilMep nocenxa. npornuysueroca Hd 2 KM enons nyrlil, C Mara3li1HaMIiI, C060pHOOi uepKOBbKJ BlilpxeH uens MaHcaHo (e pOMaHcKIiIMIll iii roTliIyeCKIiIMIiI 311eMeHTaMIII, HdnpliIMep, xpyrnoe OKHO iii nOpTl1KliIl. rllaBHolii nnouianso. uepxoBblO CaHTO DOMIiIHro (c cpnaMaHACKIiIMIiI KOBpaMIII, eunonueuuuMlil no KapnlHaM Py6eHca) iii UePKOBblO CaH XyaH C MiKCIiIBHblM cpYHAaMeHTOM.

):\0 cneAYlOllIero nYHKTa Ha nYTIiI AnOCTOna, <DpoMIiICTa, nopora BeileT '1epe3 ropy MocTenapec (1400 M), nonuoxse iii BepWL<lHa KOropOL4 OTMe'leHbl Kpe(TB Mlil , C BepWL<lHbl BIiIAeH ropOAOK, l--1Tepo llenb KaCTlo'lllbO, nOCfleAHlil1ii HaceneHHbllii nyHKT 8 npOBIIIHUIiIL<I 6yproc, iii PYCflO peKIii nlilcy~prB, sa KOTOpoOi Hd- 41i1HaeTCl1 npOBIt1HUlt1fl naneHClilfl.

l./epKoBb CaHTa Mapl1f1 n,a EinaHKa, Bl1flbflflbK<lCap ue Cnpr»

24



I

naneHCIIIH

Jle~eTBlt1TenbHO, Ha Bble3Ae 143 lilTepo pacnOnOJKeH K8MeHHblW MOCT CDV1Tepo c OAIiIHHaAuaTblO nponetavu, nocne KOTOporo nanOMHIt1KI<I BCTynaKJl B TaK Ha3blBaeMbiOi KpaOi noneOi, npOTRHYBWL<lIiICJ1 OT lilrepo ne na Bera AO CDPOMIII('Tbl.

Vhepo ue na Sera - noeeIlOK Ha 6epery peK!4, B KOTOPOM

B HaWIll AHL<I It1MeeTCR COBpeMeHH8f1 rOCTL<lHIt1Ua, a rakxe xnacclt1yecKIt1Oi CKIiIT nbeA8.l1 e o6pa30M AnOCTOIl8-nllllllt1rpIIIM8, CneAYlOllIliIL1, 60nee 3HaYIt1TellbHblL1, HacelleHHbl~ nyHKT - 606a~H'Inbl1 llenb KaMl-"IHO, B KOTOPOM errs uepxoas :lnOXIi1 B03pOJKAeHIiIA.

3HaMeHlt1TbIEil neroruiceu nanOMHIiI'leCTB8 Ai1MepIiIK nlilKO nocurran 3asepweHHbiM eBoOi weCToOi sran nocne npIil6bITlt1J1 80 <DPOMl-"I(TY, rAe uepxoas CaH MapTlt1H pacnonaraer K OCTaHOSKe 6oJ1l;>we, yeM YCTaJ10CTb, 3TOT xpaM B pOMaHcKoM crune OTIll-IyaeTCA npocroroa 14 60r8TCTBOM CPOpM, 'fTO xapaxrepuo AJ1A 3TOro CTllllfl, Henonanexy pacnonoxeau ocraTKI1 e-s,peOicxoro KsapT8JJa, a TaKl!(e CTapIiIHHbl~ npuor nallbMepoc iii peHeccaHcHblOi nplt1IOT CaHTbflro_ Bo CDpOMI<1CTe raxxe eCTb romlfeCKl1e xpaMbl CaH Ilenpo, CaHTB MaplllA Aellb KaCTI-111bO

iii Caarsnro.

UepKOBb CaH MapTI1H. $poMMcTa

LjepKOBb CaHTd Mapt1Fl aen« KaM/I1HO. Kepono« ae noc KOHl1f:C

B~nbRnbKacap lie Cl1pra nopaxaer nyTHVlKa orPOM" HblM xpaMOM CaHTa MapliIA na EinaHJ<a. BHYTPI-1 cOXpaHVlJJlIICb BeCTr~TcKiIle 3neMeHTbi VI I-IMelOTCR nOAnVlHHble copasuu ecex CTLlJneViOT roTVI'leCKOfO B 3axopOHeHVlRX no peHeCC2IHCHOro B pessoe no uepeav,

CneAYlOlljVlW nyHKT - KapplIIOH Ae nee KOHAec. Ha ynVlue CaHTa MapHI1 paCn0J10IKeHa uepxose BVlpxeH Aenb nY3HTe, a '" ue-rrpe ropona - pOMaHCKaR l1epKOBb CaHTbAro. B 601" peruerpax noprana npeJ1CTaBJ1eHbl J1yywVle 06pa3l1bl l-!CKYCCTaa nyrVl Anocrona "AKoBa. Ha ijpyroM 6epery peKl>1 BHl1eH KpaCVlBbl11 MOHaCTblpb CaH Cowno B pOMaHcK0M CTVlJ1E' C BenViKonenHblM!1 3axopoHeHMRMVI VI peHeccaHcHow ranepeei'i.

Teneps nyrb HAeT no wocce AO peKVI, norne xero nececexaer 3aCeAHHbfe nona VI xpaorosarue CTem1. 3TO nopora oAIIIHo4eCTBa VI pa3MblwneHIIIL'i, Hi! KOTOPQIII nyTHVlK YYHTCl1 nJ06!1Tb xpacory He3aMbicnoBaTblX net13alKelii. Cnesa OCTalOTUI Kanscana ne noc MOn!1HOC (8 MeCTHOt1 npVlXOACKOIll LjepKBI4· eCTb 1-1306paIKeHl-lfl AnOCTOJ1a ~KOBa, KOTOPble CTOVIT nOCMOTpeTb), Cepsaroc ne na Ky~ca VI KIIIHTaH~nbR lie na KYKa (ApeSHepVlMCKVle pasBanIllHbl). 3aTeM CnejweT KanbCdAlIInbR ,!Ie na Ky3ca. 3ijeCb KOrna-to npOXOAVIna pV1MCKaJ1 nopora.

ilanee CneJlYIOT teneHIIIA neAlIIfOC, Teppaaansoc Ae TeMnnapaoc, MOpaTI1HOC VI CaH HlIIl(onac C KlIIpnVlYHbIML-1 crpoeH!1AMV1 V1 npVlXOACKIIIMVI l1epKBaMIII. Mapwpyr npl16nVlIKaeTCJ1

K rpaHHUe C npOBVlHI1V1e~ Jleou,

26

neOH

I

Ha asesne B np06V1HLlV1Kl Jleou ijoporVi pa3BeTBJ1AfOTCA. neWeXQAHai1 rpona YXOp,!1T snpaeo VI Be,QeT K MOCTY sepes norpaHVlYHYIO peKY BaJ1bijepap,Y3i1. Ha ijpyroM 6epery HaxOAHTCA CKiIlT BlllpxeH ijenb nY3HTe, a 321 HViM - ropon CaarYH, nepBbl~ 1113 PHna H;;lCeJ1eHHbIX nYHKTOB Ha 3eMne npeeuero KOpOJ1eBCTBa Jleou, xoropue VlrpanVi 3HaYVITenbHYIO pOJ1b KaK B Tpagl4l1V1AX nym Ha KOMnocTeny, TaK ill co6CTBeHHO B VlCTOPVlV1 crpass;

IOPOA CaaryH B03HMK sospyr K.nKlHVlIIICKoro MOHaCTblpA CaH CDaKYHijO. B HawV1 AHM OT rex cnasusrx epeMeH COXpaHt.1- nV1Cb nVlWb OTAenbHble (neAhl, HanpV1Mep, ApKa CaH 5eHMTO VlJ1V1 YaCOBaA 6awHfL VI XOTFI Ha l..{eHTpe repone cxasanoo, 3aKPblTl'1e MOHanblp~, 6blnoi1 6neCK see euie yraAblBaeTCH B poMaHeKOM cmne C apa6CKI'1MVI MOTIIIBaMM HeKOTOpblX xpavos: yacOBHJ1 CaH MaH(Vlo VI xpaM Jla neperpl'1Ha (oopas Ilesu MapVlVI B uacrosuree BpeMA HaXOAMTCA B My3ee 6eHeJ\L-IKTVlHOK), BepOATHO, npencreanaor C060H ny,-,wVle oopasuu. TaKIKe BblAenfllOTCA l.1epKBVI CaH TV1pCO MCaH Ilopeaco.

nYTb Anoerona cnyeKaeTcA K pece Cea t.1 nepecexaet ee.

B norenxe KanbcaAa llenb KOTO wocce 3aKaH4L1JBaeTCA. 3ijeCb MapwpyT pa3I1BaVlB"eWl: HanpaBO YXOI1I11T MOlljeHaA I1peBH€pVlMCKail Ilopora nanOMI,VlKOB, a HaJ1eBO - CDpaHl1Y3CKVlIII KOpOJ1eBCKI-IL'i nYTb, npOXOAAll.I!111 4epe3 eeneHVlA 5epCbAHOC, 3nb 5ypro PaHepo w Penberoc, B KOTOPOM 06e 110POiM CXOijATCA BHOBb VI BeAYT K ropony MaHClIInbR Ae nac Mynac. Ha 3TOM yyaeTKE' eCTb MHoro 30H OTJ;lbIXa

OKPYIKalOll.I!1e ropon CTeHbi CBL-IAeTE'J1bCTBYIOT 0 TOM, 4TO KOrna-to OH MMeJ1 60nbwoe crpareno-ecxce 3Ha4eHllle. 3TO 6blJ1V1

ApKa Ce« 6eH/I1To. CaaryH

II

J

ronu Henpepbl6HbiX 61-1T6 sa rspparopmo, 11 ropon Ha pexe 3cna B03j:1BL.1r An)1 3BlLII1Tbi KaMeHHbie creuu C 3y64BTblMW 6aWHAMI1 11 4eTblpbMA BOPOT3MIII, 113 KOTOPblX B H3WL.1 I1HIi1 COXP3HHnWCb TOJl6KO neoe: ApKa KOHcenCbOH H Apxa CaH AryCTVlH, Y€P€3 KOTPPYIO nanOMHIIIKIll BblXOART 1113 ropona. B MaHCli1nbe €CTb MOHBcrblPb W C€Mb uepKBeili.

OTCIOAa III uo CTOJlWUbl npoBwHUVlVl nopora npOXOAI4T sepes III(TOplII!1eCKWe MeCTa_ HanpWM€p, He):laneKO OT ropona 8l11nbl1- MOpOC parnonoxeuo BO€HHOe YKpenneHHe acrvpos, 3aXBa4eHHOe pI1MJlflHaMV1 B nepsov BeK€ Hawelll 3pb1. HeMHoro nansure pacnonoxea 1/130rHYTblill MoeT BlllnbflpeHTe -iepes peKY llopua, 3TOT orpoMHbl1ll MoeT Ha(4L.1TbIBaer ceMHalluaTb (BOAOB, nocrpoeuuux B pa3Hbie 3nOXIll. Ha npyrOM 6epery peKIII, PfI):lOM C MOClOM crO.11 AeillcTBylOlLIw~ npaor nnfl nanOMHWKOB

Or ropona Jleoua nyTHHKa OTl1enRIOT reneps nlllWb ceneHillfl Ap"laXYlna Vl BanbAenaCPY3HTe, a T3K;t(e ropa lloprnnto

(1200 M), c sepwlIIHbl KOTOPOL1, OTMeyeHHOIII coBpeMeHHblM YKa3aTeneM, MO;t(HO 6e3 TpYAa pa3Jlw'II1Tb 6-awHIll Kacj:>enpanbHOro ccoopa, CnYCTIIIBwlIICb C ropu, nyrHV1K npoxouar no MOny KaCTpo -iepes peKy Topao III BXOAlilT S ClapL4HHblL.1 eBpeHcKwH kaapran. 3TO y'JF.e Jleou.

Hev13BecTHo, TO nVl KOpOJleBCKVlL1 ABOP npaanexan nYTb AnocTona flKOBa, TO nVi nocneAHVlIII cnccobcrsoaan 603HI-1KHOBeHVlIO cronnu xoponescte. Ho T04HO Vl3BeCTHo, 'ITO nYTb Ha KOMnocreny npOXOAVIT Yepe3 CTOnL.1l(Y upeauero KoponeaCTBa Jleou, KaK paH€e OH npOXOI1L<1Jl 4epe3 C::TOIlL-lUbl KaCTI<1IlL4M, Hasappu H Aparoua. 50nee roro, a i\aHHOM cnysae Jleou OCnapasan saaaue CTOJl1<1 l(bl csasana y aCTypV1l11cKOrq OBbeAO, a 3aTeM y KaeTV1nbCKoro 6yproCB. OAHaKO onaronapa CBOIIIM Y011lWRM neouceoe KOpOJ1eSCTBO 6blJ10 npouseTalOlLIV1M V1 MO-

rYlLleCTBeHHbIM, KaK 06 3TOM CBI<1A€TenbCTByeT ropon, KOTOPblL.1 cnycrs Tbl(Ayeneme OCM3Tpl1BaeT nanOMHIiIK_

OCMOTP HaYL4HaeTCfl nocne nepe(e4€HVlR Mocra -epes Topao. na- 1l0MHv1K cnenyer no yn\l1ue A/lbKanbAe Mwrenb KaCTaHbo AO nnouiana CaHTa AHa. Ynnua 5apaOHa Beller

K CTeHe, sa KOTOPOIII HaXOAVlT(R

EnI4Cf<onCKI4i1r aeopeu. Acropra

nnouians MepKailO, rne B03BblwaeTCA pOMaHCKt4~ xpaM CaHTiJ MapVlR j:1enb KaMt4HO, KbTOPbl~ npVlHVlMan nVlnVl,pVlMOB -epes IOJKHylO Dsepb nY3pTa Aenb nepAOH (npOLUeHv1fl). MOU1eHble ynVlUbi VI KpblTbLe ranepen BeAYT K KaepeApanbHOMY cooopy CaHTiJ MapVlR AI" Perna, KOTOPbl1ll C'-IViTaeTCR H8V1nY'lWI1M npVlMepOM roTVlKVI nVipeHelilcKoro nonyocrpoea. Oco6eHHo BblAenfllQTCA B HeM BlnpaJKVI. 3AaHI1e CTOVIT Ha MeCTe ApeBHVlX P!o1MCKIo1X TepM VI nocnel1YIOLUVIX POM(JHCKVIX VI Mocapa6cKVlX crpoeHv1l1; xepes em aenaKonenHbl11 OKPYlKalOlJ.1Mii anCVlilY Heep BepylOU1V1e npOXOI1V1nVl B 'laCOBHIO CaHTbRIO VI BVlpxeH onaHKa

npeJKAe 4eM Bbllllni Vl3 ropona no ynaue A6aAl-la, CTOIliT sepHyTbCR H838A VI euie pas OCMOTpeTb ropoa. Torna MOlKHO npoaTViCb no ynVlL\e Pya C ee ABopuaMVI VI UOMOM 50TVlHec 3HaMeHVIroro apxmenropa raYAH.

YnVlua PeHY3Bil no 3Ty CTOpOHy CTeHbl BeAeT K MOHaCTbiplO CaH MapKOC, KOTOPbl1il B HaW!o1 AHI1 RBnReTCfl POCKOWHOIii rocTVlHVluelll-napa,[l0pOM, VI K npaory nns nanOMHVlKOB, nocnenHeii lKeMYYlKVlHe DeOHa. Ilepen 3j:jaHVleM B03BbIWaeT(A yKa3arens, nepeHeceHHbl1ll c ropu nOpTVlflbO, KOTOP bl III , HeCMorpR Ha (BOlO kpacory, He 3aTM€BaeT peHe(CaHCHbllll epacaA.

nVlnl-"lrpl4Mbl nepexonsr MOCT CaH Maproc 'lepe3 pexy &epHecra VI BblXOIlRT Vl3 ropoaa B H8npaBneHIo1V1 CTenVi. nOnOBIilHa sroro yYa(TKa nyTI'\ 0603Ha4eHa KonoKonbHelll coBpeMeHHoro xp8Ma B!o1pXeH nens K8MIo1HO C 6POH30BblMVI cKynbnrypaMIo1 Cy6l-"1paKca.

XpaM KV1HTa AHtycTV1a. KaKa6eJloc

Co60pHafl uepxoe» CaH I1mlJOpo. fleOH

Ilocne nccenxa CaB Mllirenb ):Ienb KaMIliHO Ha'"lI1HaeTCfl crens, KOTOpaA B HawVl AHI'I npopesaaa opOCVlTe.nbHbIMI'I KaHanaMVI V1 38- ceAHa KYKYPY301ll. BCKOpe na.nOMHt.1KVI sepea 3HaMeHI-"ITbl~ MOCT naco OHPOCO (B 1434 r. Ha HeM npoasouren Pbll..lapCKI1~ rypaap) 8XOAAT B YIOTHblVi norenox Ocnararts ):Ie Op6t.1ro.

Ha nO):lb€M€ Ha nnoceoropse, B paMoHe MaparaTepVlR. pacnOnO)Ke.H KpacVlBe~wVlii roPOIlOK Acropra PVlMCKVlIII MOCT sepes peKy TY3PTO B03BeLUaeT 0 npVl6nVl)l(eHt.1!o1 K HaceneHHoMY nyHKry C 60nbwolii naTVlHCKolil TpaAVlUVleii: OT npesaero noceneHIo1R AerypltlKa coxpaHlo1flVlCb MHO,OYVlCneHHble cneAhl B ua-rrpe ropoua. T3M JKe pacnonoxea rOTVl'leCKVlIil MOHaCTbtpb C;lH CDpaHcVlcKo VI npVlIOT CVlHbKO nbR,ac. Ha nnOLU8AI-"I Maiilop HaXO.QHTCR M3Pl1fl C I'IHTepeCHblMIo1 Y8c8MVI, B KOTOPblX K8IKAblill yac nOflBnAIOT(A ep!o1ryPKV1 B TpaAVlUI-"IOHHOIil OAelKAe.

n06nVl30nl1 pacnonoxes KaepeilpaJlbHbl1ii co6op CaHTa MapVlR B n03j:1HeroTVI'"IeCKOM CT!o1ne co MHOlKeCTBOM BI1TpalKelii 101 10130- 6pa)l(€HIo1Iii H8 TeMY nyrVl AnOCTona I1KOBa (cpeilt.1 HVIX q:mrypa nepo MaTO, Me(THOro repca 6V1TBbl npVl KnaBVlXO). PAAOM ( 3.TOIii rpOM8AOill HaXOIlHTCR enVl(KonCKVlIil neopeu, nOCTpoeHHbl1ll coeceu B ApyroM crnne KaTanOHCKIilM apXVlTeKTOpOM AHTOHIi10 raYAVI.

B HeM pacnonoxen MY3el7t nyrVl AnOCTOJla AKOB3.

B6nVl31i1 He OyeHb BblCOKVlX neOHCK.VlX rep pacnonoxeaa ranlo1(VlR. B 3T~X ropax HaXOAIi1TCR CeneHVI€ Pa6aHanb lIenb KaMIttHO VI waXTepcKV11ii noceno« nOHcpeppaAa. Ha 3TOM Y'l3CTKe, Ha nepesane C1>oHce6aj.10H. nanOMHVlK BCTpeyaeTCI1 c KpaC!o1- BO~ TpaAl1ltVlelll nyrVl AnOCTOJla - uonxoxec (Ha cesepo-sanane

30

31

ranlllO'lR

nonYOCTpOBa V1X Ha3blBalOT MlllnbRfJOlllpOC): OH nOAXOAI-IT K yKa- 3blSalOlI.leMY MapWpYT Kpecry Hil IpYAe KaMHeti1 1-1 CaM Ao6aBm1- er ryaa HeCKOJ1bKO KaMHeL:i. C ropu ny3pro (1517 M) PTKpbtBaercs YYAecHaA nauopava nnonoponuoro pai10Ha 5bepco.

He.QaneKO OT nocenka nOH¢eppaAa pacncncxeuo ceneuae MonlllHaceKa e 3aenYlKl-IBalOll1eL'i BHI-1MaHV1A yaCOBHeili flac AHlyCTI-1ae, OTKpblBalOlIjeti1 xopowo COXpaHI-1BWI-1i1iCA apx.I-1TenYPHbll1 KOMnneKC PV1MCKI-1t:i MOeT V1 Ilpe8HII1e YI11-1l..1bl ( KpblTblMI-1 ranspeAML-I, aa KOTOPblX crOAT Ha KpenK.I-1X ¢YHAaMeHTax He6onbW(.fe nsopua. B xouue KOMnneKca HilXOAI-1TCA CKV1T CaH POKe. CneAYIOUjl-1t:i HaceneHHblili nyHKT - nOHcpeppaAa.

nOHq,eppaA8 -;3T<O [jjaX'lep~KL-liIi ,noe\;llOK,c.'p'onbwoili I-ICTOpV1eili. OT YKpenneHH~m ~~ne3QM MOCTa (f]OHC (/)eJiJP?Ta) Hil Bbe3Ae AD 3aMK.a mCflttTBnbepOB'-- see CBV1lleTenbCTsyeT 0 TOM, 4TO xorna- 10 310 6blJ1 YKpenn€HHbl' F1YHK 04 H XOPOU)O COXpaHI-1BWl-lilic~ 3aMbK OTnwJaer,Cfl A~ '0- Bbl¢d;t:;eklHbl~ 1(ael6anl-1- CTII14eCKI-1M xapaKTep6M ('rpL-lCTeH'J MeHaA~alb:RaweH V1 T.A.). H 1-1 IKe , B era POM UE'HTpe no .• cen I(a r18CntlIl0xej1' ~ej'i!(,~a HCH bll1 npaor KoponeBbl, PRAOM C KOTOpbJ rto~ J~~'c~:!.i ~qH AHApee, rile XpaHL-ITCR cKynbnrypa rocn\'lranbe~.f!So~Q,'X'p-!1ga.~ nepe~ SblXOIlOM LH nocenra ,ni3nClMHMKI-1 npO~~{}f£'T ~e,I:J!1r~:rVllll-1KOM BL1pXeH AE' na 3l-fCL-IHa C KpaC~BO~ 6ap0t4H0ii1 K0f10KOflbllel1, HdnOMI-1HaIOll(e~ 0 YYAeCHOM ABneHI-11-1.

CJ1eAYIOI.I.(L1i'i, Yl-laCTQK nYTVI npOXO'AVlrcpe~)iI nneuo 0AHMX nonei1 5bepco 1-1 nOAxcigvff j(. rop.oAY aKa6en c, t~1OppJl4 nan ceoe Ha3BaHL1e <MapKB MeE:THbIX BL1H. B' t1eHTp 'pacnO);l'bll<;eH;3-' uepxoss Hy3CTpa Cei·u,6'pa..Ile. na nna·~a,.a laK)I(e t.1Htepe.eHb10 apXE'0f10rL-lyeCKl-1~ MY3~ti1'_:.

B KOHl..le store yya~ .. ~ Qy;r.",,~aelJ0~e :e~ fqp~,Q't,,B~[1 i1IWl. F\ panxa Aenb 6bep(OI.r.·~.~.~~~~·I-IK~,t0'Q_~qQ~I~F~M.e~Tr;~uit:) l~ TO IlOCTa1OYHbie ~CH.o: ~H,~~_~QW 1;.0~T~~·C ~ 13pe?-:TQ~ 'J pOMaHCKaA ljepKOBb ',~H!bllr,o ( 6O:P~I-I.3PTa A~ri~rJep:' IlOH. PRAOM pacnonoxen N1.Qa3GTblf)1>' (aH <DpaHcV1cKo,jae MOHaXI1 nenaor c06CT1:!eHi-IOe BtlI~O.: OTCIOil8 .MOIKHO CfT~CTV1TbCfl B CTapI-IHHbl~ ue-rrp-ropona, 'Hcl'yn}'l'uax KOToJ'>oro,MH0rD K[~acl'1" BblX VI 60r(lTb1X nOMOS. C APYU L1,CFOROHol BO$Bblw.aeTCA 30·~OK:

, . .

C MaCCI'lBHbIML1 .CTefjaMl<I W3a.pewe4eHHbIML<\ 6KHaMI1.

no Mepe tore KilK na1l0MHI-1K nepecexaer I-131116bl pen!

BanbKapce V1 YAanfleTCA OT 4"€!?eWHeBbIX (a):10B, OH BXOJ1I-1T B ropHYIO MeCTHOCTb, KompaA' .~pt;)C:T~pae'CA A0 cenefjL<l~ pyl1iieQa!'l. 31leCb na nOM H 1-1 K V1 'rOT0611T€f1' K 1i.6!meA • .ie1it'Bell'L1KO~ 6i1me: no-

KOpefiL<l1O r:amKV1V1. •

V1 BOT, HaKOHelj, fam1CL1R - 3eMllA, rae nOKOAT(A OCTaHKL1 Anocrona AKosa. nIlOAOpOAHbl~, mpHbll1, II1HorAa CYPOBbILil, HO acerna lI\elWbli1 Kpaili, B '-IeM y6eX<AaeTCA nanOMHI-1K, KOIAa c BepWI-1Hbl ropu neApaqmTa OH CBopa411BaeT eneso V1, nOIlHI-IMafiCb aeepx, AOXOAI-1T AO Ce6pe~po, AepeBHH C KOMnneKCOM KaMeHHb'IX ;-KHnbiX J:jOMOS (nallbOCac) c c.onOME>HHbIMI-1 kpsuuaML-I, IAe IlO HeAaBHero SpeM€HI-I IKL1J11-1 nIOAI-1· OIlI-lH 1-13 TaKI-1X peCTaapl-1pOBaHHblX IlOMOB npacnocooneu nOA llepeseHCKYIO rOCTV1HI-1L1Y. B APymM AOMe, 3HaYI-ITeJ1bHO 60nee CTapl-1HHOM, pasveuraerca 6ecnnaTHbl~ MY3er:1, OTKPbITblL:i BeCb AeHb.

B Ce6peVipo o6A3aTenbHO cnenyer nocerats L1epKOBb, IAe xpaHV1TcR CBrlTOili Ipaans. B KOTOPOM BHHO npeaparanocs B KpOBb XPL1CTil. ::lTO YYIlO CJ1YYI-1nOCb orono 1300 r.: rorna IKe 06naTKa npeaparnnacs B xne6. LjepKoBHble xonoxona 3BOHL-Inl-1 31-1 M or:1 , "I106bl nanOMHL1KI-1 He 3a6nYAV1nl-1Cb B TYMaHe. TaKIKE' OOI-lT ocaorpers npl-1IOT CBRTOIO >l<e'panblla OpL-tnb~KcKoro, 6e3 cOMHeHHA, caMblt:i nOCell.laeMbl11 nocne POHceCBanbeea, TaK KaK OH OTKjJblT c XI B. C nepepuaov Yyrb ccnee era net.

3aTeM nyTHI-IK cnenyer B flJIIHbRpeC (npocrosi 1-1 KpaCV1Bbll1 xpaM CaHTO ::lCTeBo, npV1HallnelKaBWI-lI1 MOHaxaM 1113 Ce6pel1-

£lOMa «nenuocsc», Ce6peillpo

npJ-iIOT IlnR nanOMHIiIKOB. nOproMapl1H

J1eHa) npenaapaer HaCeJ1eHHbILit nyHKT C XOpOWO COXpaHVlBWeLltCA LjeHTpaJ1bHOLit <!aCTbIO. 3TO ropon MenL'lAe, xoropua CTOVIT O(MOTpeTb. 3AeCb Ha Bbe3.Qe VlMeeTCA yaCOBHR CaH POKe C xpeCTOBblM CBO,QOM, AeCATI-1J1eTVlAMI'I CYVlT8BWVjMCA caMblM aapblM

B fam1CVlVI. 3ilTeM cneayer noceran, Kpaeeon MY3eiii Mem1Abi

VI npononxars OCMOTP Ha nJ10~a,QVI KOHBeHTO, rue HaXOQATGI ueproas CaH ne)1po co cpeAHeBeKOBblMVI capKocparaMVI 1>1·3QaHVie rOpO)1CKOro COBeTa XVII B. Ha BbLe3)1e 113 ropoua ClOVIT xpaM (aHTa Mapl1A XII S., YKa3bIBalOLl1V1iii Ha npononxeaae nylVi, KOTOpbriii cnYCKaeTOl B lL'IXyKl il.Onl1HY peKI1 Ir1co co cpeAHeseKOBblM MOCTOM VI npLIIKlTOM CaH AHTOH.

nanOMHI1K scrynaer Ha yn VI Ljbl ropona Apcya, CTonVI Ljbl CblpOQe110S, c rOTVlyeCKOiii ueproauo Jla MarAaneHa V1 xpaMOM Ca-rrsaro, OTCIOAa AO kovnocrenu OCTanOCb npOLltTVI nOCl1eAHVle Kl>1nOMeTpbl. Ha 3TOM nyiVl HeT KpynHblx naMAIHViKOB: nopora I>1AeT -repea He60llbwVle .QepeBHVI. Ha suesne Vl3 Apcya I1MeeTCA <DpaHLjY3CKVliii II1CTO'-lHI<1K III OOM CaH Jlacapo, B nepesue CaHTa Ir1peHe ecru euie OAI1H KpacIIIBbliii VlCTO'-lHIIIK l>1 '-IaCOBHA Ha'-lana XV II ,I B Ilopora VI):lel 6e3 6onbwII1X nepenanos III AOXOAIilT j:10 nocenra J1aBaKOnbJ'l, B peke xoroporo nanOMHVlKVI OMblBanViCb nepeu nOCne):lHVlM cnYCKOM K rope MOHTe AO roco, C KOTOPOLit BI1j:1Hbl 6awHVI KacpeQpanbHoro co6opa KOMnOCTenbl.

BOI1I1)1 B ropon. nanOMH!<IKV1 VI):lyr no ynaue CaH llenpo AD BOpOT flopra j:10 KaMVlHO VI nOQHVlMalOTC7I no ynli1ue Kacac Peallic AD rrnoutana CepBaHTeC (B AaBHl>1e BpeMeHil 3):leCb HilXOj:1l<1nC7I MHoronKlAHbli1 pbIHOK). 3TD VlCTOpVlyeCKIIIL1 ue-rrp ropoua, KOTOPbliii KOrAil-TD 6bln OKpY>KeH CTeHaMVI. P7I)10M HilXOj:1V1TCA AraTOBblLit cjJaca):1 xpaMa, KYAa MO:t:HO nonacrs no YJllllue Aca6aYep!<1a; B 106!<1J1eL1HblL1 rOA 6blBalOT OTKipblTbl aopora CaHTa AHa, BHYTPVl ene'-laTnRIOLl1ero xpaMa, 06bAB~ neHHOiO OOCTOAHl>1eM YenOSeY€CTBa, I1MeelCA cepe6pAHbli1 nape C OCTaHKaML<! Anocrona HKoBa. npeil<Ae '-IeM nOKIIIHYTb

36

xpaM, nanOMHVlK 06l13aH ):lOTpOHYTbCll no nOpTVlK1l rnOpl>1A (Cnasu), urenespa pOMaHCKoro CIVlJlA, nOKnOHIi1TbC)1 crarve MaCTepa Mateo. cosnarens nOpn\Ka, a TaK>Ke OQHATb 610CT Anocrona HKOBa Ha rJ1aBHOM anrape. B :nOM cnY'-lile naJ10MHlilyeCTBO MO;l(HO (YVITaTb ycnewHblM.

Ka¢eJlpanbHbliii co6op CaHTbRTO ue KOMnoCTena

llpyrll1e nyru

XOTf! Bce nopora Bel1YT B KOMnoCTeny, CBMblM MHOromOI1- HblM nYTeM flBI1AeTCA CDpaHUy'3CKV1~ CaMb11A MHoronlOAHbl1A He 3 Ha'lllT eAI'1·HCTBl"HHbllA, nOTOMY 'ITO K Anocrony RKOSY eCTb I1PyrV1e nyTV1 11 V1X Bapl1aHTbl no BceMY nllpeHelACKOMY nonyocrpOBy. 3n1 nyrVl He raKVll" O:KI'1BneHHbll", HO OHI-! ):IalOT B03MO)f(HOCTb n03HaKOMI1TbCfl C APyn4MI1 AOCTOnpV1MeYaTenbHOCTRMVl, MO)l<eT 6blTb, He TaKV1MVl I13BeCTHbIMVl, HO, HetoMHl"HHO, BeCbMa KpaeHBblML-! Vl ueHHbIMVl_

nplll6pelKHbiM Mapwpyr

Yall1l" scero B CBA3Vl C 3TVlM nyrE'M ynOMVlHaeTeA VlMR 3HaMeHV1TOro cppaHl..lY3CKOro nVll1lilrpV1Md AIi1MepVlKa nV1KO, KOTOPbl1lJ arero nL1Wb He XOTen npOXOAlHb yepe3 onacaue 3eMnVl Hasappu, TeM He MeHee, l1a)l(e C YCfeTOM npr.1BneKBTenbHOCTL'l V1 rocrenpV1V1MCTBB sroro xpas, (TOl'lT BcnOMHI1Tb, 'ITO nepsue nanOMHI1- KI1 ecerna wnV1 no npL16pe)l(HblM paiiroHaM, xoropue B 6YPHYIO 3noxy nepsoro TbIGI'leneTL1R 6blflL'l oonee cnoKoli1HblMVl, creM APY-

Tonoce. rVfnycKoa

rue TaKOe nonoxeave coxpananocs AO rex nop, noxa 6yproc He cran pe3';AeHlIVleli1 KoponeBcKOro neopa. nOMVlMO nYTVl, nBnOMHVlKL1 3a6OTV1nl1Cb 0 coxpaHHOCTI1 APyrl1x penVlKBL'lIi1, MHOfVle V13 KOTOPblX xpaHV1n I1Cb B KoponeBCTBe ACTYPI4R. iii MeH HO n03TOMY MHOfV1e nanOMHV1KV1 Ha'lVlHanV1 CBOIIJ nYTb K Anocrony 1113 Eiali1oHHbl (CDpaHLlHR), a 3aTeM npoxonann cre,pe3 CTpBHy 6aCKOB, KaHTa6pV11O 11\ ACTYPr.1IO-

nanOMHV1KVl nonaaaor Ha nonYOCTpOB crepe3 t.1PYH, rne L'lMen(Ii npV1IOT. no(ne 3TOIO OHVl nepexonnna crepe3 peKy 5)1lAacoa no l1epeBRHHOMY MOCTY, KOTOPbllll CTORn Tyr 1=10 roapeveuuoro. XOTA QOHOCTIIIH-CaH Ce6aCTbHH He nexar H<l nyrVl, CTOIilT eocnonssoBaTbeR B03MO)l(HOCTbIO III OCMOTpeTb 3TOT 4YAeCHblllJ roPOA. B ro-

L/epKoBb CaH XynllliJH ae noc tlpeaoc B Oeseno. ACryplllR

MOHaCTblpb 3nb Cenueenoo B Blllnap ue Ilonec. flyro

pOJ:lKe OHlIapp~6~R MO)KHO nOm060BaTbC~ KaK CKV1TOM CaHTb~ro. TaK VI QPylV1MVI 3QaH!-1~MI-I, RBnmO.lljVlMVlCA YKpaWeHL1eM V1CTOPV1KO-XYQOit(eCTS€HHOIO BHGlM6nR ropona,

OT IOp0j:1a OillRPTCYH MO>KHO oTKnOHV1TbCJ1 OT OCHOBHom Mapwpyra VI y€pe3 lonoey V1 Bi-1TOplillO·ranel1e npolilTVI 110 6yproca. Ha :>TOM Mapwpyre npL-lBneKalOT BHHMaHVle HaceneHHble nYHKTbl ApMeHTliIR, Mlo1paHAa Ae 36po 1'1. 6p~BbecKa.

Ho nyTb npononxaercs no 6aCKCKOMY nooepexue 'fepe3 Opao, rue coxpauuncn C!(V1T CBJ1TOrD Mapn1Ha Typcxoro, V1 CapaYTC, rue eCTb uepxoss ClHTa MaplMI na Peanb, B KOTOpoii, no npeuauao. HaXOQVlTCA (MO,Vlna nanOMHV1Ka). nYTb lo1j:1eT OT ropona CYMaillR AO repHIo1K~-nYMO, me AO "IX nop AelilCTsyeT npVlIOT LIml nanOMHL1KOB B CTI'IIle 6apOKKO. HenOAaneKY pacno/lo:.::eH ropon 6lo1nb6ao, rue co6nlOAalOTCA TpaAV1U!111 nYTV1 Anocrena AKOBa. OT nOCBAIl1€HHOro €MY Ka¢el1panbHOro co6opa, nocrpoeuaorc Ha MeCTe craporo xpaMa, /.10 80pOT nHnVllpVlMOB 11 nonynapuoro xpaMa 8V1pxeH ne 5erOHbA.

Ha nccepexee CTpaHbl 5aCKOB BCTpeyalOTGI npVlIOTbll1nA nanOMHl'1KOB It1 CKVlTbl, nOCBAllleHHble Anocrony, a TaK>Ke ero lt1:J.o6pa)KeHVlR (HanpVlMep, AnOCTon RKOB, n06e>KJ1alOt1!l'111i MaBpos, B CKVlTe CaHTa MapVlA B nopTyraneTe).

B KaHTa6pltlV1 TaKV1X npltlMepOB He MeHbW€. CpeAIt1 HMX CTOMT BblAemnb CTapVlHHbl1ii npmor Itl npeKpacHylO n03AH€IOTW-I€CKYIO uepross CaHTa MapV1A J:jenb ny3pTO B repone CaHTOHbA. OH HaxoJ:jIt1TCA H€/.1aneKQ OT YIOTHoro It1 cnoxoauoro Caaraanepa, KOTOPblii coseraer KpacoTY uepKoBHol1 apXIt1TeKrypbl (Kacpei1panbHbllii cooop. nOCTpoeHHblii HB MeCTe xpaua KY3pncic CaHTOC) c OY(JpoBClHVleM rOp0/.1CKI-1X xsapranoe (Hanpl.1Mep, ABOpeLj Jla Maruaneua),

40

B HeCKOnbKI1X Kl1nOMeTpax OT I1CTOpI1KO-xyoo»::ecTBeHHOro KOMnneKca ropona CaHTIo1nbRH8 llenb Map pacnonoxeas, AOV1cfopw·recKVle neuteps: AnbTaMVlpa, KpoMe roro, pOMaHCKaA co60pHaA uepxoss CaHTa XYIlVl8Ha cnY)l(!-1J1a OpltleHTl-1pOM /.1J1fl nanOMHMKOB, xotopue XOTen!-1 B :>TOM M€CTe nepeliiTItl Ha CDpaHUY3CKV111i nyTb Ha yposse CDPOML1CTbl.

B nOrpaHWYHOM ropoAKe CaH BillceHTe A€ na EiapKepa (0- XpaHltln ItlCb /.1Ba npaora /.1J1A nOlnOM HL-iKOB. M bl BXOj:1I1M B KHA)I(e(TsO ACTYPMA. nOMItlMO npnora B noproeou roponxe nbAHec nanbMHMKV1 noceuaior pOMaHCKl'l1ii MOHacTblPb CaH Canseanop ne Cenopao, a 3aTeM BXOj:lAT B KpaCI1Bbli/i ropono« P116allecenbR (llepKBVl CaHTCl MapVlFI Marnaneua 1-1 HpcTpa teHbopa J:le na fVla, neuiepu TViTO 6YCHIIlbO),

3a ropaMVI Bl'1J:jHeeTCA Oaseno. nanOMHVlK!-1 acerna crpeMMJ1MCb nocenrrs crorusuy KoponeBCTBa ACTYPVlA, rAe OHM OCMaTpV1BanVi Ka¢e.QpanbHbllii co6op CaH Canssanop. HecpaSHeHHoe 60raT(TSO «rroporo nltlWb yaCTItl4HO HaXOAV1T orpaxeaae B AopOMaHCKI'IX xpavax, pacnonoxeaaux B oeperrnorrax DBbeno. nanOMHV1k" wnVl cona TaK}I(E' 1tl3 Jleoua 4epe3 nepeaan naxap€c. OT pe3MAE'HIIViItl Koponesrxcro nsopa ACryPV1I1, KOTOPbl1li cnocofxreosan MV1pOBO~ V13seCTHoCTVI nYTI1 Anocrona HKOBa, nanOMHItlKVI cneuoaann uanee 3anaAHbiM nYT€M AByMA MapwPYTaMVl. nepBbl1ii 4E'pe3 nepesan Ace60 B ropax floc OCKOC

B HanpaBneHVlItl rpaHAac lie Cam'Me, a 3aTeM - B ranVlcVlIO yepes ropOAOK <IloHcarpaAa. nOcne store nanOMHVlKl'1 cnYCKalOTCA AD KaCTpOBepAe (uepxoas B nocenxe BI4J1a6aAe VI xpaM CaHTbArO B Kacrposepns) VI Bl1nap ne J:\OHac Ht?AaIleKQ OT 10-

MOHpOHbepo. nyro

tiepeoe« CaHTblJrO W KOJ/OHHa C «oecrot«. 5aaMOHl1e. flym

pona Jlyro Dpy,m1 MapwpYT seller -epes nepesan Jla 3cnVlHa 11 SblXOl1l1T ua ,paHVlllY C ranVlcVle~ Y peKl1 30, KOTOPYIO pauuue nepecexann Ha nonce Vl3 Kacrponona.

nepSbl1l1 ,amlCIt!~CK141i1 rop on - PI-16aAeo (poMaHcKai1 4aCOBHfi Blt1pXeH nenb KaMIiIHo, KpaelilBble 3naHVlfI, Hanplt1Mep, nOM CeMblt1 Mope-to) nplt1HIt1M8n B caoev nopry nanOMHIt1KOB, npu- 6blsaewl-1X c ceeepa. 3ilTeM OHI1 cnenosana no nooepexuo AO ropona <Doc (uepxoes Caursaro), npOXOI1R 4epe3 He06blya~HO

KpaCVlBbl1l1 nnfllK Ac KaTenpaVic. .

B ecce nYTb YXOI1It1T c n06epelKb~ B HanpaeneH141;1 BlllnaHoaaae Jlcypeaca (MOHaCTblpb CaHTa Maplt1A ne BVln8Hosa, MOruna rpacjJa CaHTO) VI 4epe3 ropu aener B ropog-MY3ell1 MOHAOHbeAO. Ilanee OH cnycKaeTol B 110nL-1HY, rue pacnonoxeuu ropoua Bl-1nanb6a (WepKOBb CaH POKe, 3THorpacjJVlYecKI111 MY- 3eli1, 6aWHA rparpoa AHnpaAe) VI liaaMoHAe (uepxoss CaHTbflro, K0J10HHbl ( KpeCTOM VI coepeMeHHbl1l1 cKYJ1bmypHbllil KOMnneKc).

no cpeAHeBeKoBoMY Mony B CTaplt1HHOM roponxe napra nanOMHIt1KVI H8npaBnAlOTGI B roPOA Co6paAo uoc MOH)I(ec, rile It1MeeTCA B€nl14eCmeHHblll1 (lt1crepcKVI~ MOHaCTblpb CaHTa Maplt1f1 co CMewaHHblMI1 apXI1TenypHblMI<I CTIt111AMI1. OTCIOAa 6nVl3Ko 110 ropona Apcya (WepKOBb CaHTbf1ro VI npVllOT Iln/1 nanOMHI<IKoB), rne nanOMHVlKItl nepexoaar Ha CDpaHWY3CKVlI1 nyn,

42

BOCTO'lHbl':' nyTb

3TOT nYTb wen C tara n14peHeClcKoro nonyocrposa 11 1<13 KacTIt111VlIt1 \tl npOXOA14n 4epe3 3CTpeManypy, CanaMaHKY 11 CaMOPY

B npOBIt1HWVlta Oypeuce. OH cosnanan c Cepe6pAHbiM nYTeM - IlpeBHep14MCK.0I1 aoporoa, KOTOpa~ npoxouana Yepe3 CeBVlnblO Ha Acropry VI B KaHTa6p111O.

3TOT nYT6 MOlKeT Ha4V1HaTbCR B llKl6o~ TO'JKe talKHO~ 'Jacm nonyorrposa, B TOM Y14cne 143 (aMO~ CeBl;1nbl-1 (MOHacr61p6 Opl1eHa Anocrona AWBa), 1<1 orryna VllleT 4epe3 IOPOna Cacppa, Mepl-1Aa (661n 3CTpeManYPCKOI1 CTOllJ.1L\e0 Opneua Anocrona llKOBa; MHoro411cneHHbie ilpeBHepVlMCKlt1e naMFITHIt1KI1) VI Kacepee 110 nnaceHClll1iI (wepKOBb Caussro ne nac 6aTanbflc)

B nlO60M enY'Iae, CanaMaHKa 6blna OCHOBHOI1 uenuo Ha 3TOM Mapwpyre. TaM CXOlll<lnl1Cb MapwpYTbl 1t13 roPOAOB AB14J1a (4ep€3 neHbl1paHlla ne 5paKaMOHTe VI AJlb6a Ile TopMec) 11 Vl3 3CTpeMa,I1YPbl, no KOTOPblM nanOMHVlKI<1 wnlt1 ( lora Ha cesep. CanaMaHKa - I1cropVlKO-apXI1T€KTYPHbICl naMflTHIt1K, ocoeoro BHI<IMaHIt1R B KOTOPOM 3acnY)I(VlBam ABa Kacj:lenpallbHblX COoopa (CTapbllii J.1 HOBbllii), YH14BepC14TeT, ueproas CaHTbA,O

VI xaaprana craporo ropona.

CaMopa - ropoA-naMATHIo1K (L\epKOBb Ca-rrssro VI I1PY,Vle snaHIt1A Taro )l(e Opneua, npaoru AIlA nanOMHI1KoS). HenonaneKY OT ropona nyTb pa3BeTBnAeTCfI: onaa Aopo,a sener Ha Acropry 4e-

pes 'EieHaseHTe (UepKOBb Cill-Hbilro L'iXpilM OpJ:1eHa rocrraranseP06'), a J:1pyraA - B IlPOBIilHl.IliliO Oypeuceuepes ropsue osepa

Y ropoaa nY::J6na ~e CaHa.6pIllA.

B ram1CliIIO llanOMHliIK14 BXOAJH 'Jepe3 nepesan KaHga (xpaM

B ny6l-1aHe) Iil BCKOpe nonaaaor B ropon rYlllIIHbR (uepcoss CaH MapTIiIHbO). HI!1)1(e, B i101lIilHe, HaXOAHTCA ropOAOK BeplilH, KYAa IlO):!XO):!LH ):!pyro~ noror Vl3 nopryransccoro ropona WaBeW. COBpeMeHHbLe KBapTanbl BblPOCJlIil PAgOM co cpennesexoBaM 321'CTP0t1KOM, KOTOPYiO CTOl'Il oCMoTpeTb, 8 repone MOHTeppe~ CQXpaHHncA 3aMOl( 11 pOMaHCKI1W XpBM, nocBAweHHbli1 Anocrony llKOBY_ Y 3aMKa nerxo pa31lt1'ljL1Mbl pa3BanL1HbL npaora IlnA nanOMHt1KOB

nyTb Anocronaaner no wocee ):10 >KIIIH30 J:je nIllMIII'a, B):IOnb naryHbl AHTena, lola ):IHe KOTbPO~ HaXD,I:IIiITCIl, 110 nereHAe, 3aTOHYBWHL1 ropon, -repes CaH,QbAc (cjJnaMaH):ICKall )I(L1S0nVlCb B CaHTO :laeBO) VI nOAHVlMaeTCA ):10 ropona AnbRpLo1.c. B 3TOM repone. KOllb16€'nH KOponeL1, ~MeerCA BellViKonenHblVi IilCTOPVlKO-XYAoiKeCTBeHHblVi aHcaM6nb, 06naAalOtljVl~ T2IK)I(e 60nbWO~ 3THorpacjJlilY€CK:OH LleHHOCTblO. BblAelllleTCIl pOMaHOKai1LlepKOBb CSHTbflro 11 rp!})K):!ClHCKl1e CTPO€'HL1H (espeikKL1H «saptan W Mon)

MapwpYT npOXOAVIT 'lepe3 TepMallbHhl€' BO):lbl B paHOHe roPOAK2I CaHTa MaplIIHbfLAe AyracaHTac (pOMaHCKa~ uepxoes CaHTa Mapw~; B OKpeCTHOCH1X. - xpaM VI autponouopdmoe 33- xopoueune) H npOAOn>KaeTCA AO ropona Oypesce.

44

Anb~pVlC Oypeuce

Cronnua npOBVlHl\1il1il XpilH!I1T AonrylO rpauaumo nylV1 Anocrone RKOBa, OTpa)l(eHHYIO B IlOpTIilK€, (nOXO)l(eM lola. nOpnlK cnaShl B. KOMnOCTene) KacjJe):lpallbHOro ccoopa BeCb CTapbl~ ropon npencraenaer co6oLii Kp2lCIilBeHWIilVi HCTOPVlKO-XYJ:lO)KeCTBeHHbIH 3anoseAHHK, rue pacnonoxsau uepxoss CaHTbflro L1 MOHaCTupb CaH cDpaHCIilCKO C rOTI1'leCKOM ranepeen. rOpOA B03HHK B PVlMcme epeMFI. Y TepManbHblX VI{TO'lHL-1KOB Ac5yprac. .00 rorOK2IK nanOMHVlK IlOK~HeT 3TY npOBVlHljl'llO, CTOVIT oTKnOHIilTbCfl OT Mapwpyra Iil norerurs MOHaCTblpi.1 CaHTO 3CTeBD. Ae PVloac 11 Cal-! ne):lpo ne POK2IC B Yll.lellbe CVlllb

Vi3 OypeHce nyrb K Anocrony aener B CaH Kpt-1CTOBO Ae Cea (nY'lWVlL1 B ranl1Cl'I11 xne6; HenOAillleKY, B ceneHIilVI OceHpa HaxOAIilTCfl L-1CTOPVlKO-XY):IO)KeCTBeHHbl~ naMflTHI1K - MOH~3CTbIPb). B HeCKOllbH1X Kl1nOMeTpax OTCIO):Iil pacnonoxe-u, rOpO):lKH j]030H ():IpeBH~Vi 6eH€'AeKTVlHCKHH MOHaCTblpb, S HaWIiI i1.HH - l.IepKOBb) 11 ClllnbeAa (,S o KpeCTHOCTIlX, B cene Bl1na Ae Kpycec, - xpaM Hoca Ceusopano Kopn~Hbo, a HeMHoro Aanbwepa3BanL1Hbl MOHaCTblpll Kap603Vipo).

KOIlQHHa C KpeCToM a 6aHj:letipa B03B€'ll1aeT 0 6nLo130CTVI roponra fpaH)I(a (AOpOM8HCKi3A uepxoas H nereHAilpHbLi1 KaMeHb Mons IIIfeinus). C BepWI1Hbl HilXO.l1RIl1€'HCIl P!1AOM ropbl nlll'KO Caxpo Blil.l1HbL KonOKOnbHL1 KOMnocrenbL

45

AHrnL'lMCKlII1I1 nyTb

nbA 3H1M Ha3SaHV1eM !13SeCTeH MapwpyT, no KOTOPOMY nanOMHV1K", npel1MyweCTBeHHO C 5pLnaHCKV1X ocrPOBOB, KOTOPblE' BbICa)KvTBanV1Cb B neprax ceeepO-3anaAHOH ranHCI1I1, uina S KOMnocrsny. 3TOT MapwpyT (AenanCA nonynApHblM C XIV a,

!113 nopra llappore B repone A KOpYHbfl nanOMHI'IKI'I HanpaBmmL-lCb B pOMaHcKyKl C060PHYKl uepxoas CaHTa Mapl'IR 1'1 B uepKORb Caursaro Ha rope 3io1plllc' Ilocne sroro OHl>1 WJ1L-l B 0 liypro, KYAa TaK:>Ke BbICall<l>1BanV1Cb m1nl1rpI1Mbl,

B repone KaM6pe eunenaerca uepxoss c HecjJOM, orpaua"IVlBaIOLLlVlM anCV1AY, l>1 C KynenblO, KOTOpaR, no npeAaHVlIO, 6blna AOCTaBnE'Ha co CBfnoC1 3eMnV1, nYTb npononxancn Yepe3 ropoaKI1 Carpac, Kanse 11 6pYMa, rae OH cnV1BanCA C MapwpYTOM, weAWHM 1113 nopros ¢epponb III Hena,

np1ll6b1BaBWVI€ B 3TI1 ABa nopra nepecexana MOCT -iepes peKY 3YME' 14 nOI1HI1Manl4Cb AO cpeAHeBeKOBoro CeneHI1A nOHTelleYMe (6aWHA AHApaAe, LlepKOBb CaHTbAro).

Yepe3 nep6ec nanOMHI1KI'I A06l'1panV1Cb 110 ropona CaH Map· niH ue TIo106pe (pOMaHCKVI~ xpaM) 11 nepecexann MOCT nOHTe BeJ1bA B repone lieTaHCoc (I1CTOPV1KO-XYI10ll<eCTBeHHbIVi KOMnneKC, 3aMe"laT€llbHaR pOMaHeKal1 Lj€PKOBb Caarssro): npOXOIlA yepe3 PeKlIIaH, nanOMHI1KV1 ,I:lo(mranlil ropona 6pYMa, rne BCTpeyaIlIIICb C nl1Jl!.1rpV1MaMI'I, «oropue Wf111 V13 A KOPYHblll. QTClOAa nyTb npoAOf1)KaIlC~ Hd lOr VI nepecexan peKY TaM6pe y ropona CIo1rYliilpo, uenanero OT CaH MapKOC, rne 01-1 ouieanca C <DpaHLjY3CKV1M nyTeM, V1 OI-iM 6MeCTe BxoAHnV1 B KOMnoCTeny,

fna6Hblill c/Jacan Kac/Jenpanbl-iOro co6opa B TYI1. nOHreBenpa

llopryransuu raK:t(e COBepWaIlI1 nanOMHV1yeCTBa j( AnoCTOn.y flKOB.Y. MapwpYTOB 6blno HeCKOnbKO: HaYV1HaACb B pa3nl4Y~blX nymTax, OHI'! CXO!1V1nI1Cb I'IIlI1 B repone lilaeeui, OTKYAa WllV1 Ha Bept:1H, rne CJ]t-lSalll1eb e Cepe6pRHbiM nYTeM, I'InV1 B rQPOAe BaneHea I1Y MVlHblO. nanOMHVlKI1, xoropae wn" 3TJ.1M BTOPblM nyr€M, nepef1IlbIBanV1 pexy MV1HblO Ha 1l0AKaX VI OKa3blBanlllCb B rapO,QKe TYIlf IIIIlI1 B ·er..o oKpeCTHOCTRX (AO cax nop coxpaaanacs nepeeHfj no, liIMeHIll Ocnarans - «npV1IOT»). Orcoaa OHI-1 wfll'l Ha cesep "I~pe3 rppoua nOHTE'Bellpa III naJ:lpOH.

Ljepko6b CaH~paHcvKKo B 6eraHCoc A KOPYHbfi

46

47

Co6op. CaHTbRro ae KOMnOCTena

mom fla nepa o~ CTpilfi ~ue 06nOl:K ~:

(]lorD Ha noen e~He~ rrpa H ~ ue ()6noi<.KI1.

TeKCT:

nepeaoA: (J)oTOrpa¢~V\:

r pa¢~yeCKlollii ~113a~H. MaKer.

Ony6n ~waa H{)

nOprl'lK CnaBbl. 1ol306pa)f(eHl'le Am,lCTOna RKoBa

n~~l'IrpI'IMbl Ha nyrl'l Anocrcna HKoea KpI'ICT05anb PaMVlpec

EKarepl'IHa Tepearseaa Apxl'l B "Ty p3cnaHbR" KOllbl10 <l>Y3HTec

OnCIIIOH K, 0.0.0. KOMYHIIKacboH Bl'lcyanb © Typ3cnaHbR

rOCY.QapCTeeHHbl~ CeKpeTap~aT no TYPI'I~My ~ Toprosne M~H~CTep(TBO npOMbIW~eHHOCTl'l, Typl'llMa 1'1 toprosna

Anb!llA-nPECCA NIPO: 704·08·062-8

Hanevaraao B Pocellll 3·e ~~H~e

nonE3HbiE CBEDEHV1R

~H(jlopMaLl~fl Anfl Typ~CTOB TYP3cnAHbR www.spain.info

V1cnaHCKafl (jleAepaLl~R aCCOLll'la4~~ nyr~ Anocrona fiKOBa Pya Bbexa, 3. Jlorpoaso

rOCT~HI1L1bl-napaAOPbl

UeHTpanbHoe 61Opo 6POH~pOBaHI1R

yn. PeKeHCI, 3. 280 13 MaAP~A

"B' 902 549 979, ~ 902 525432 WI'IW.parador,es

Acroprs: Incpnera 3,Qyapno Kaapo, 5 11" 987618222, - 987603065 Iil1nb6ao: nnaca nens 3HCaHye, 11 11" 944 795 760

6yproc: nnaca nens Anonro MapTVtHeC, 7

"B' 947 203125, iii 947 '216 529

kacrpo VpAlilanec ABeH~na AI' na KOHmnYCbOH, 1 "B' 942 871 337 A KOPYHbfl: DapceHa ,Ill' na MapL1Ha "B' 981 221 822 nOHOCTI1I1-CaH Ce6aCTbRH: Pe~Ha PexeHTe, 3

"B' 943 431 166, Iii 943 481 172

llypa H ro: ACKa ra CyH 3TOp6L1)lea, 2 "B' 946 033 938 3CTenbll: CaH HL1KOnaC, 1 "B' ,948 556301 Il>pOMIilCTa: naceo CeHTpanb 'lr' 979 810 180

XI1XOH: MapL1f!03. 3cnV1roli CeHTpallb AI' (J)oMeHTo "B' 985 341 771/902 931 993 YlcKa: nnaca AI' na KaTeJlpanb, 1 "B' 974 292 170

Xaxa; PeXvtMbeHTo AI' ram'ICvtR, 2 "B' 974 360 098, 1ii1974 355165 neoH: nnaca Ae na Perna, 3 "B' 987 237 082, - 987 273 391 florpoHbo: naceo A€nb 3cnonoH, 1 "B' 941 291 260, ~ 941 291 640 nyro: nnaca Ma~op, 27-29 11" 982231 361

MOH.QoHbeAo: llnaca ne na K.aTeApanb, 34 "B' 982 507 177 Haxepa: KOHCTaHTVlHO rappaH, 1 "B' 941 360041 Oppeara-Poacecaansec AHr~ryo Mom1Ho "B' 948 760 301

OypeHce: 3J1w:jlL1(110 Kacera AO nero:i~po (nOHT€ POMaHa) "B' 988 372 020 OSbeAo: CvtMaJ1eavtnb~, 4 "B' 985 213 385

naneHCl1fl: Kanse Mal1op, 105 "B' 979740 068, ~ 979 700 822 naMnnoHa: Kaflbe 3cnasa, 1 '5' 848 420 420

nOH(jleppaQa: Xvtllb I<l KappacKo. 4"B' 987424 236

nY1HTe na Pe~Ha: nnaca)1e MeHa, 1 "B' 948 340 845, ~ 948340813 Pl16aAeo: nnaca 3cnaHbR 11" 982 128 689

CaaryH: 3nb APKO, 87 "B' 987 781 121

CaHTaHAep: 3pHaH Koprec, 4 "B' 942 320 708

CaHTbHrO Ae KOMnocTena: Pya Aenb Bl<lnb~p, 30 "B' 981 584081 CaHTo .!IoMI-1HrO ne na Kanb(aAa: Kanbe Mal1op, 70 "B' 941 341 2'30 Bl1nbfl(jlpaHKa Aen b Dbepco: ABeHI1~a 5epHa PAO Dl1e( 06enap

11" 987 540 028

BI1I1bflBI-ICboca: napKe Banbl1Ha "B' 985 891 759 BIo1TOpl-lfl·racTe~c: nnaca XeHepanb nOMa '5' 945 161 598

ornsn TYP~3MA nOCOflbCTBA ~cnAH~~

125009, MocKBa, yn. Tseptxas, 16/2 ol<l3Hec UeHTp «Ianepea Anep», 6 3TalK

"B' (7-495) 935 8397, ijI (7 -495) 935 83 96 E-mail: m05cu@tourspain.es www.tourspain.ru

KOHCVflbCTBA

KOHcynbCTBo POCCI1I1 B MaAPl1lle CfJoaqurn Costa, 33. 28002 Madrid

'5' (34) 914 112 957, ~ (34) 915 627 830

KOHcynbcTBO POCCI1~ B liapcenoHe

Av, Doctor Pearson, 34. 08034 Barcelona "B' (34) 932 800 2 20, ~ (34) 932 805 541

KOHcynbcTBo YKpal1Hbl B MaAPIlAe Ronda de la Abubilla, 52. 28043 Madrid

11 (34) 917 489378, - (34) 917 590328

KOHcynbCTBo YKpal'lHbl B 6apcenoHe ClNumancia, 185 bejos II. 08034 Barcelona "B' (34) 932 804 009, ~ (34) 932 052 521

Iloneanue TenecpOHbl

CnYlK6a cnaceHHll

CKOpaR nOMOlljb

fpalKAaHcKaR fSapJ1I1R HaLl~oHanbHa~ nOIlHLll1fl MYHHLlHnallbHa~ nOml1.1VlA

Cn pa BO~ Hall cnYlK6a >KeJ1e3HO~OPOlKHaA KOM naHHR PEH tDE M e;tgYHa POAHilR ~ HCPOPMilUI111 VlHQJopMal[l111 0 uoporax

llo-na

A3HA (Asponopru)

"B'112 11 061 "B' 062 "B' 091 "B' 092 "B' 010

11" 902 202 240 \iVJM.V,renfe.es "if 902242402

"a" 900 123 505www.dgtJ~s

'B' 902 197 1~7 www.correos.es 11" 902 404 704 W\WV,aena.es

~

1 I

a

-

I'I.l

ONtf;J:JO

Вам также может понравиться