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G o o d B u y !

Korea 2002
Travel Guide

KOREA TRAVEL GUIDE


Ȟ
http://www.tour2korea.com

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ňIncheon International Passenger Terminal
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ňGimhae International Airport
ňBusan International Passenger Terminal

Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to
press. However, datails such as prices, opening hours, telephone numbers are liable to change. We would be delighted
to receive any corrections and suggestions. Please write to editor@mail.knto.or.kr. Designed by Darum. Printed in the
Republic of Korea. Not for sale. 2002 가이드북 영어
Tourist Map of Korea 6
FIFA World Cup 2002 Korea/Japan TM
8
Contents
2002 Asian Games in Busan 13
Geumgangsan Diamond Mountains 14
Korea in Brief 17
Tourist Destinations 25
Seoul 26
Subways (Seoul and Incheon) 54
Seoul Vicinity (Incheon, Gyeonggi-do) 68
Eastern Area (Gangwon-do, Ulleungdo) 72
Central Area (Daejeon, Chungcheongnam-do, Chungcheongbuk-do) 76
Southeastern Area (Gyeongsangbuk-do, Gyeongju, Busan, Gyeongsangnam-do,
Hallyeo Maritime National Park ) 80
Southwestern Area (Gwangju, Jeollabuk-do, Jeollanam-do) 92
Jeju-do 98
Special Interests in Korea 105
Korean Food 106
Traditional Sports and Games 108
Recreation 110
Shopping 116
Seasonal Attractions 124
Spring 124
Summer 125
Fall 126
Winter (Ski Resorts, Hot Springs) 127
National Flag Golf Courses 131
The Korean flag is called taegeukgi. Its design symbolizes the National Parks 132
principles of the yin and yang in Oriental philosophy. The Museums 132
circle in the center of the flag is divided into two equal Festivals 138
parts. The upper red section represents the proactive
cosmic forces of the yang. Conversely, the lower blue General Information 141
section represents the responsive cosmic forces of the yin. Entry & Departure Formalities 142
The two forces together embody the concepts of continual
Transportation 144
movement, balance and harmony that characterize the sphere of infinity. The circle is
surrounded by four trigrams, one in each corner. Each trigram symbolizes one of the four Accommodations 153
universal elements: heaven ( ),earth ( ), fire ( ), and water ( ). Diplomatic Missions and Other Organizations 167
Business Travel Tips 172
Holidays 174
National Flower Handy Facts 175
The national flower of Korea is the mugunghwa or Rose of Useful Korean Phrases 181
Sharon. Every year from July to October, a profusion of Index 183
mugunghwa blossoms graces the entire country. Unlike
most flowers, mugunghwa is remarkably tenacious and
able to withstand both blight and insects. The flowerœ s
ҮThe Romanization of hangeul (the Korean alphabet) in this booklet follows the new system
proclaimed by the Korean Ministry of Culture and Tourism on July 7, 2000. In an attempt to
symbolic significance stems from mugunghwaœ s root, make things easier to understand, we accept some redundancy in English rendition, repeating
Ŕmugung,ŕmeaning immortality. This word accurately certain terms stated in Korean. For example, gang means river, san means mountain and do means
reflects the immortal nature of Korean history, and the island, but we write Imjingang River, Mt. Namsan, and Jindo Island, etc. As two exceptions,
determination and perseverance of the Korean people. however, because they are already so well-known internationally, occasionally you will see “the
Han River” and “Jeju Island.”
ҮUnfortunately most of phone numbers listed in this book may not answer in English. It will be
more convenient to ask your Korean friends to call for you, or get assistance at 1330 Travel Phone.
55

65

50

55

15
35

55

25
Y.
PW

25
EX

12
M
NA
HO

45

25

10
™ World Cup Venues in Korea
2002 FIFA World Cup Korea / Japan
Seoul
Nestled around the Han River is
the Korean capital Seoul, a city of
old and new. With thousands
years of history, it has well
preserved royal palaces, historical
relics, and cultural treasures, yet
state-of-the-art facilities and
Changgyeongung Palace
infrastructure as well.
Seoul World Cup Stadium in Mapo-gu will be the venue for the opening match on May
31, a first round game on June 13, and the semifinals on June 25.

Suwon
Just 41.5 km south of Seoul,
Suwon is an ancient fortress city.
s the World Cup again approaches, world soccer fans Intending to move the nation’s

A are heating up. The First World Cup of the 21st


Century will be co-hosted by Korea and Japan
from May 31 to June 30. We are looking
forward to a valuable opportunity to work harmony not
only between our two countries but also among world citizens
capital to Suwon from Seoul,
King Jeongjo who was the 22nd
Joseon Dynasty ruler built a 5.74
km circular fortress wall, from
1794 to 1796. Today you can
Suwon Hwaseong Fortress
through the productive competition and friendship that will walk along the entire wall, which
be realized in the games in the year 2002. was designated by UNESCO in 1997 as a World Cultural Heritage.
Korea will hold the opening ceremony and opening Suwon is also famous for its delicious beef ribs.
match on May 31, and Japan the final match and closing Suwon’s neighboring Yongin is a popular tourist destination with
ceremony on June 30. many famous attractions such as the Korean Folk Village, the
mammoth amusement theme park Everland, and several nice golf
About the tickets courses.
In Suwon will be group matches on June 5, 11 and 13 and a round-of-16 on June
With the exception of the opening match, the base-level tickets range 16 at the Suwon World Cup Stadium in Paldal-gu.
from US$60 for the first-round matches to $300 for the final match. The
best seats range from $150 at the first-round matches to $750 in the final
game.
Incheon
There are three kinds of tickets. Single tickets are good for one match. A A gateway for sea transport to China, Incheon is emerging as a major
Team Specific Ticket Series (TSTs) will enable the holder to watch all Asian air hub as well. The new Incheon International Airport began
matches involving a specific team, and a Venue Specific Ticket Series operations on March 29, 2001, on land reclaimed from
(VSTs) are for all matches in a particular venue. Applications for tickets the sea.
can be filed with FIFA’s World Cup Ticketing Bureau. Well known as the site of General MacArthur’s landing in
Internet: www.FIFAworldcup.com E-mail: sales@FIFA-tickets.com 1950, Incheon commemorates the triumph at both
Address: P.O. Box 2002 Cheadle Hulme SK8 7RR, U.K. Freedom Park and at the Memorial Hall for the Incheon
Tel: 44-870-123-2002 Fax: 44-870-124-2002 Landing Operation. There is Wolmido with its unique
mixture of cafes, seafood shops and amusement rides, or an
2002 FIFA World Cup Accommodation Bureau Korea
Tel: 82-2-738-2006, Fax: 82-2-738-2165
hour-long pleasure boat ride. Just a short drive from
www.fifa-hotels.com, e-mail: sales.korea@fifa-hotels.com

Korea travel guide Freedom Protection Monument at the Memorial |8|9|


Hall for the Incheon Landing Operation
downtown leads you to Ganghwado Island and its highest mountain
Manisan with an altar on its summit: this is Chamseongdan where
Dangun, the founding father of Korea, made offerings to God, and where
the torch relays for all Korean sporting events begin.
Ferries ply various interesting islands off Incheon, where friendly local
villagers and fishing communities.
Group matches will be held at Incheon Munhak Stadium on June 9, 11 and 14.

Daejeon
EXPO Science Park
Located in central Korea,
Daejeon is a representative
science city. The Expo Science
Park, Daedeok Science Town,
and the National Science
Museum make Daejeon a
Buddhist temples a thousand years old, such as Donghwasa and Pagyesa.
future-oriented, high-tech
Gatbawi, a stone Buddha image, attracts many to pray, as legend has it
science center.
that people’s wishes are granted.
Yuseong Hot Springs, 11 km
Also designated as the venue for the 2003 Summer Universiade, the city will host three
from downtown, gained group matches on June 6, 8 and 10 and one third-place game on June 29 at Daegu
nationwide fame for its healing World Cup Stadium in Suseong-gu.
power ever since the Baekje
Kingdom (18 B.C.˅A.D. 660). Within city limits lies Daecheongho
Lake with a beautiful lakeside drive that attracts young couples. Mt.
Jeonju
Bomunsan is another tourist site dotted with Buddhist temples and Nicknamed “Home of Art,” Pansori
hermitages; you can take a short cable car ride or walk the trails. Jeonju is a center of the Korean
At Daejeon World Cup Stadium in Yuseong-gu, two group matches and a round-of-16 culture and art. A local festival,
will be held on June 12, 14 and 18. Jeonju Daesaseupnori, is held on
the fifth day of the fifth lunar
Daegu month. It presents many
traditional aspects of Jeonju
Medicinal herb marketFamous for its sweet and through pansori (epic solo song),
juicy apples and textile sijo (a three-versed Korean ode),
industry, Daegu has been folk songs and farmers music.
the country’s major retail Also as an epicurean capital of the country, no matter where you eat, food
center for medicinal here is well prepared and plentiful. Best known among Jeonju dishes is
herbs for several bibimbap.
centuries. The Jeonju is home of Jeonju Yi clan, from which the Joseon Dynasty kings
items cover sprang. Several historic sites related to Yi clan are still well preserved
ginseng, herbs, including Gyeonggijeon Shrine which was built to enshrine the portrait
nuts, fruits, honey, leaves, deer antlers, a cornucopia of of Yi Seong-gye, founder of the Joseon Dynasty.
roots, etc. Two group matches and a round-of-16 will be held at Jeonju World Cup Stadium in
Woobang Tower Land, an amusement theme park, Deokjin-gu on June 7, 10 and 17.
has Daegu Tower featuring a panoramic view of the
whole city. Located in the north part of Daegu is Mt.
Palgongsan, considered a sacred mountain. It houses
Gwangju
Gwangju, called “City of Light” and “City of the Arts,” hosts the

Korea travel guide | 10 | 11 |


Mt. Mudeungsan Gwangju Biennale and hotels. Seafood is a must-try on Jeju Island.
holds the Kimchi Festival The city was chosen as a site for summit among world leaders several
every October. At the times in the 1990s.
eastern part of the city During the World Cup, two group matches on June 8 and 12 and a round-of-16 on
stands Mt. Mudeungsan June 15 are scheduled at Jeju World Cup Stadium in Bunhwang-dong.
with its tea plantations
producing chunseolcha
(“spring snow tea”), and
Busan
sweet mountain-grown Busan is Korea’s principal port
watermelons up to 50 cm in diameter and weighing 15 kg apiece. Some for international commerce.
old Buddhist temples are situated on the slopes, including Jeungsimsa and About 90% of the country’s
Wonhyosa both founded during the Silla Kingdom (57 B.C.˅A.D. container shipping passes
935). through this port. Just a few
Gwangju citizens are also famous for their patriotism. This was a center minutes’ walk from the harbor
of heroic army resistance against Japanese invasions of the late 16th are lively Gukje (International)
century and the independence movement opposing Japanese colonial Beomeosa Temple
Market and Jagalchi Fish Market
oppression from 1910 to 1945. It also played a leading role in the which attract flocks of visitors
contemporary democracy movement. from Korea and abroad. For seafood lovers, a variety of fresh fish are sold
Gwangju World Cup Stadium in Seo-gu will hold two group matches on June 2 and 4 in the Jagalchi Fish Market where spirited women merchants slice up
and a quarter finals on June 22. fresh fish for instant sashimi meals. Only 40-minute subway ride from the
downtown will take you to Beomeosa Temple which is surrounded by
Ulsan peaceful forest.
The city was also selected as the venue for 2002 Asian Games.
Ulsan is a leading industrial center During the World Cup, group matches will be held at Busan Main Stadium in Yeonje-gu
of Korean industry, such as oil on June 2, 4 and 6.
refining, auto manufacturing,
petrochemicals, shipbuilding and
machinery. Hyundai Heavy
Industries and Hyundai Motor 2002 Asian Games in Busan
Company are based in this city. (Sept. 29-Oct. 14, for 16 days)
Hyundai Heavy Industries Ulsan is also famous as a
producing center of quality 002 Asian Games, the sports event set
amethyst, and there is a park themed on this enchanting violet stone. A
short way from downtown are clean beaches: Jujeon well known for its
black pebble beach and Jinha with its surrounding pines.
The Ulsan Munsu Football Stadium at Nam-gu will hold group matches on June 2 and
3, and a quarterfinal on June 21.
2 up for everlasting peace and harmony
of 3 billion Asians, is to be staged in
Busan under the motto of “New Vision,
New Asia.”
This greatest Asian sports festival will remind all Asians
of the Olympic ideal for more prosperous and peaceful world, and the
Seogwipo citizens of Busan are doing their best to realize this goal. More
informations at www.busanasiad.org.
Seogwipo is situated at the foot of Mt. Hallasan on Jeju Island, whose
lower slopes are covered with citrus trees and green pasture. As it enjoys
mild, sunny weather and clean environment, people flock for sightseeing,
sports and leisure activities all year round. Much loved by tourists, the
Jungmun Resort offers a nice beach, beautiful
waterfalls, public golf course, marine park,
huge botanical garden and world-class

Jungmun Resort
Geumgangsan Diamond Mountains
with 12,000 Pinnacles and 12,000 Miracles

Guryong Falls Sangpaldam Pool Bibong Falls

Manmulsang Rocks Moranbong Acrobatic Circus Geumgangsan Hot Spring

ҟAttractions in Geumgangsan Mountains


Each of four tour courses boasts truly breathtaking scenery. Outer Geumgang
is the zenith of masculine magnificence while Inner Geumgang has feminine
properties.
Samseonam Rock
Guryong Falls
Fifty-meter-high Guryong Falls (“nine dragon falls”) is one of the most famous and
exquisite falls in Korea. At the bottom of the waterfall are nine 10-meter trenches through
“The beauty of the Diamond Mountains is beyond comparison with any solid rock, carved by the crashing waters over hundreds of thousands of years. The
mountains in the world. The wonder of grand gorges enraptures us.” formation looks like dragons.

- Isabella Bird Bishop, British explorer, in 1890 - Sangpaldam Pool


Sangpaldam Pool, the setting for an ancient legend of a fairy and a woodcutter, provides a
perfect stopover point.
o other mountains in Korea have been more admired than Bibong Falls

N Geumgangsan. Poets, painters, and artists have been eager to


applaud the magnificence of these 110 mountains. With 12,000
pinnacles and hundreds of valleys, odd-shaped rocks, crystal clear
waters, endless saw-tooth ridges, diverse flora and fauna, this is some of the
most fantastic mountain scenery to be found anywhere on the face of the
The spray looks like a phoenix taking wing and it is named Bibong Falls (“flying phoenix falls”).
Manmulsang Rocks
Manmulsang is perhaps the number-one scenic sight in the Geumgangsan Mountains. It
features tens of thousands of rock images resembling various objects and living things.
From every angle it displays incredible nature-carved images.
Geumgangsan Hot Spring
globe.
About 300 meters away from the Geumgangsan Hotel is a long-famous, healing hot
For most foreigners visiting Korea at the new millennium, the beautiful spring. Relax after hiking the mountain trails.
Geumgangsan in North Korea has been added as a tourist attraction. Since
the first 4-night-5-day Geumgangsan tour on November 19, 1998, more
than 400,000 people have enjoyed the breathtaking scenery.
ҟThe process from reservation to embarkation:
On June 8 in 2001, The Hyundai Asan and North Korea agreed to allow
1. Make a reservation at a qualified travel agency, with two passport-sized photos,
overland journey from Sokcho to Geumgangsan. Though it will take some and fill out an application form.
time to build the road, the future journey is expected to be more 2. Make payment at a travel agency. All major credit cards are welcomed. Travel
comfortable. In addition, the region is agreed to be designated agents are not allowed to accept the cruise fee in cash, so whoever wants to pay
in cash may remit through the Korea Exchange Bank or National Agriculture
as a “special tourism zone,” which will afford diverse Cooperative Federation.
amenities such as golf courses, ski slopes, 3. Confirm the reservation.
condominiums, etc. Travel to the North Korean 4. Arrive at the port 2 hours ahead of departure time.
Geumgangsan Diamond Mountains is a wonderful ҟDepartures at 13:00 from Sokcho Port and 3 days and 2 nights duration (sea voyage: 3‫ڰ‬
opportunity, in linkage with South Korea’s east coast hours)
and Seoraksan Mountains. The voyage now takes For further information or a list of qualified agencies, please contact Hyundai Asan at:
place by ocean liner. ȭ 02-3669-3683, www.hyundai-asan.com or KevinCHO@shinbiro.com

Korea travel
| 14 | 15 |
guide
Korea in Brief
Land 18
Climate 18
Religion 19
Language 19
History 20
Arts 22
Customs 23
Korea in Brief over 20Ū C (68Ū F). Monsoon rains
usually begin around the end of June
and last until mid-to-late July.
August is hot.
The coming of autumn in late
Land September brings continental winds
and clear, dry weather, making the
he Korean peninsula extends fall months perhaps the most

T
RUSSIAN FED.
southward from the eastern pleasant time of year. October’s vivid
CHINA
end of the Asian continent. golds and vibrant reds create a
Korean peninsula is roughly East Sea
colorful panorama.
Beijing
1,020 km (612 miles) long and 175 KOREA
JAPAN December to February are cold three or four days of cold weather are
Incheon Seoul Tokyo
km (105 miles) wide at its narrowest Busan
and dry with occasional snow or often followed by a few warmer days.
point. Yellow Sea rain. During the winter months,
Mountains cover 70% of the Jeju lsland

Korea’s land area, making it one of Shanghai

the most mountainous regions in the Religion


world.
The lifting and folding of Korea’s populated by 47.9 million people reedom of religion is fully
granite and limestone base has
created breathtaking landscapes of
scenic hills and valleys. The
mountain range that traverses the
length of the east coast plunges
(2000). Administratively, the
Republic of Korea consists of nine
provinces (do); the capital Seoul; and
the six metropolitan cities of Busan,
Daegu, Incheon, Gwangju, Daejeon,
F guaranteed in the Republic of
Korea. Korea’s traditional
religionsōShamanism,
Buddhism, and Confucianismō
have all played an integral role in the
steeply into the East Sea, while along and Ulsan. In total, there are 72 country’s socio- cultural
the southern and western coasts, the cities (si) and 91 counties (gun). development. There are also various
mountains descend gradually to the minor religions based on various developed a large following since its
coastal plains that produce the bulk ƅGeographic position Ŏ Between 33Ūand combinations of elements from these introduction in the late 18th
43Ūnorth latitude, and 124Ūand 131Ūeast
of Korea’s agricultural crops, traditional religions. Christianity has century.
longitude (including North Korea)
especially rice. ƅHighest mountains in S. Korea Ŏ Hallasan on

The Korean peninsula is divided Jeju Island, 1,950 meters (6,400 ft); Jirisan,
just slightly north of the 38th 1,915 meters (6,283 ft); and Seoraksan, 1,708 Language
meters (5,604 ft)
parallel. The democratic Republic of ƅRivers Ŏ Nakdonggang, 522 km (313 miles);

Korea in the south and communist he Korean language, like

T
Hangang, 482 km (289 miles);
North Korea are separated by a Geumgang, 396 km (238 miles) Hungarian, Turkish,
ƅ Economic status (2000) Ŏ GNI US ʼ455.2
demilitarized zone. billion; national per capita income USʼ9,628
Mongolian, and Finnish, is
South Korea’s 99,500 sq. km is classified into the Ural-Altaic
Language group. Hangeul, the
Korean alphabet, is composed of 10
Climate simple vowels and 14 consonants. A
group of scholars under the
orea lies in the temperate patronage of King Sejong developed

K zone and has four distinct


seasons.
In late March or early
April, the trees burst into leafy
splendor to mark the beginning of
this systematic rendition of spoken
sound in 1443. It is widely acclaimed
by linguists as an ingenious
invention.
The chart on the next page
Earliest Form of Hangeul

However, because all road signs


spring. Mostly sunny days can be presents the Romanization of the 24 and information boards that are
expected from March to May. hangeul letters. This Romanization is based on McCune-Reischauer
During the relatively hot and rainy based on the new Romanization system, the old official Romanization
summer season, the vegetation is system proclaimed in 2000 by the cannot be changed immediately,
lush. By June average temperature is Korean government. there might be some coexistence of

Korea travel guide | 18 | 19 |


Consonants
ͳ OS ΄ JX ΍ S
Dangun and the Founding Myth of Korea
Ͷ V · [ Ύ \
͹ L\ Ή [QTMV\ VO Ώ X
Millennia ago when Hwanung, a son of Heaven, ruled the people, there were a
ͻ ZT Ί R ΐ P bear and a tiger that seriously wanted to become human. So they prayed fervently
΃ U Ό KP to Hwanung to grant their wishes. Hwanung was moved by their entreaties and
Vowels promised to transform them if only they could endure a
Α I Ι W ΢ a] dark cave eating only garlic and mugwort for a full
Γ aI Ν aW Σ M] 100 days. The tiger’s patience was soon worn
Ε MW Ξ ] Υ Q thin, cooped up in the dark without being able to
Η aMW
hunt, and it gave up the ordeal. The bear
became a woman after 21 days of endurance.
the two systems through 2005. and t, when followed by another consonant
She then asked Hwanung to find her a
For your understanding, major or forming the final sound of a word. This
husband; he found her very beautiful and
means that ๛໕, ጨ౏ and Ⴥჵ have
changes are listed below. changed from Pusan, HaptȆok and Cheju to
married her. The couple gave a birth to a son,
1) The previously used diacritical mark Dangun, who established a kingdom named
Busan, Hapdeok and Jeju. Don’t worry ӹ
breve (Ȇ) and apostrophe ( ’ ) have Gojoseon (Ancient Joseon) in 2333 B.C., the first
when Koreans hear foreigners pronounce
disappeared in the new system. For example, Pusan or Busan, both sound similar and kingdom on the Korean peninsula.
the vowels ࿳, ၹ, ဌ, and ႈ are romanized either way is no problem.
as eo, eu, yeo, and ui instead of the erstwhile period, A.D. 676ō935, was a Palaces and gates
3) ΍, Ύ, Ώ, and Ό are romanized as k, t, p,
o, Ȇ
Ȇ u, yȆo, and Ȇui. ႏᆐ, ဘಥዬ and ဌႈ౬
become Incheon, Yeongdeungpo and
and ch instead of the old k’, t’, p’, and ch’. golden age for Korean culture. The constructed during this
቙ዧു, ዬጪ, and ᆖჵ become advancements in the area of period can still be seen in
Yeouido instead of Inch’Ȇon, YȆongdȆ ungp’o
Taepyeongno, Pohang, and Cheongju Buddhist art are especially the city today.
and YȆoȆuido as written in the past.
instead of T’aep’yȆongno, P’ohang, and
2) When sounds ͳ, ͹, ΄, and Ί appear noteworthy. The Japanese invasion of
Ch’Ȇongju.
before a vowel, they are transcribed by g, d, In the succeeding Goryeo Dynasty, the peninsula in 1910
4) ཪ is written si instead of shi. Thus ཬഈ
b, and j, but for the sake of phonetic A.D. 918ō1392, an aristocratic ended the Joseon
and ႔཮ become Silla and Imsil.
consistency they are transcribed by k, t, p government was instituted. Dynasty. Korea remained
Buddhism was established as the under Japanese colonial
a g Silent state religion and came to have great rule for 35 years until the
Hangeul is written in syllabic influence in the political and end of World War н.
h u eo units made up of two, three, or
four letters.
administrative spheres. The name On August 15, 1945,
k Gilt-bronze
n “Korea” is a derivative of “Goryeo.” Japan surrendered to the contemplative
han guk eo (Korean language) The Joseon Dynasty, A.D. 1392ō Allies and withdrew from the Bodhisattva
7th century
of

1910, was the peninsula’s final Korean peninsula, which was


dynasty. During this period various then divided into two: South Korea
History political and economic reforms were in the free world and North Korea in
enacted. The most prominent of the communist bloc. The Republic
these was the adoption of of Korea in the south established an
he habitation of early man of Manchuria; they were by far the Confucianism as the independent government three years

T in Korea appears to have


started about half a million
years ago. The first
kingdom, named Gojoseon (Ancient
most powerful and eminent
kingdoms in the area. The period of
their rule, 57 B.C.ōA.D. 668, is
known as the Three Kingdoms
state ideology. The
surge of creative
literary endeavors and
the invention of hangeul,
later.
The Korean War began on June
25, 1950, when North Korea
invaded the South. An armistice


Joseon), was formed in 2333 B.C. period. Goguryeo and Baekje were the Korean alphabet, in agreement was signed three years later
By the first century B.C., Korea’s ultimately vanquished by Silla in Ash-glazed gray
1443, invest this period in 1953.
three ancient kingdoms of A.D. 668 and 660 respectively. In stoneware vessel, with special cultural South Korea’s tireless post-war
Silla period
Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla ruled the A.D. 676, Silla unified the peninsula significance. Hanyang, reconstruction efforts were highly
whole Korean peninsula and much for the first time. The Unified Silla now known as Seoul, was established successful in the promotion of
as the dynasty’s capital city in 1394. national prosperity and stability.

Jongmyo Royal Shrine

Korea travel guide | 20 | 21 |


Arts particular school but used free,
expressive techniques and bright
he artistic talents of the dances, mirroring the life, work and colors to depict strength, humor and

T Korean people are expressed


through the original music,
dance and painting that have
evolved over their 5,000-year history.
While in modern times many
religion of the common people, are
exciting and romantic, aptly
portraying the free and spontaneous
emotions of the Korean people.
Some typical folk dances are farmers
leisure.
Both Western and Korean schools
of painting coexist today in Korea
and some new works are combining
both.
Western art forms have been dances, mask dances and shamanistic
introduced and embraced by Korea, dances. Pottery
her unique arts still flourish, both in The appreciation of Korean Pottery-making techniques were famous and much sought after by
their pure forms and in various traditional music and dance helps the transmitted from China to Korea antique dealers. The white porcelain
harmonious combinations with visitor to better understand Korea over 1,000 years ago, where they of the Joseon Dynasty (A.D. 1392ō
modern genre. itself. flourished and produced an artistic 1910) is also renowned.
For theaters holding traditional tradition of which Koreans are This pottery-making skill was
Traditional Music music and dance performances, refer justifiably proud. transmitted to Japan at different
Traditional Korean music, called to page 110. The subtle beauty and unique periods in history, particularly during
gugak, has shared a similar cultural bluish-green color of the celadon the Japanese invasions of the 1590s,
background with China and Japan. Traditional Painting pottery of the Goryeo Dynasty (A.D. greatly contributing to the develop-
However, despite some superficial 918ō1392) have made it world- ment of the art form in Japan.
similarities, anyone who has
experienced gugak can easily tell that Customs
it is clearly different from other East
Asian music. Korean music, for Sense of Seniority one syllable, plus a given name
example, traditionally has a triple Although the traditional Confucian usually of two syllables. The family
rhythm (three beats per measure), social structure is changing, it is still name comes first. A Korean woman
while Chinese and Japanese music prevalent in Korea. Age or seniority does not take her husband’s family
have two beats per measure. is all-important and juniors are name, but their children take their
Gugak can be divided into two expected to follow the wishes of their father’s family name.
types: jeongak or the music of the Traditional Korean painting is very elders without question. Therefore,
upper classes, and minsogak or folk different from Western. Its roots lie people often ask you your age and Marriage
music. Jeongak, has a slow, solemn in the unique lines and colors of the sometimes your marital status Koreans think marriage is the most
and complicated melody, while Orient. Evidence of early Korean (interesting is that no matter how old important passage in one’s life and a
minsogak such as farmers music, paintings can be found in the royal you are, at least among family divorce is regarded as a disgrace not
pansori (epic solo song) and tombs of the Three Kingdoms members, you cannot be regarded as only for the couple but also for their
shamanistic music is fast and period (57 B.C.ōA.D. 668), which an adult if you are not married) to familiesōeven though the divorce
vigorous. have helped us piece together details find out their position relative to rate is growing rapidly these days.
about the lifestyles of the time. you. These questions are not meant Today’s typical wedding ceremony
Traditional Dance During the later Goryeo Dynasty to intrude on your privacy and you is somewhat different from what it
Korea’s traditional dance, like its (A.D. 918ō1392) Buddhism need not answer, if you do not wish was in old times: first a Western-style
music, can also be classified into reached its peak, leaving many to. ceremony is usually held at a
either court dances or folk dances. precious Buddhist paintings and wedding hall or a church with white
The slow, gracious movements of the images in temples around the Names dress and tuxedo, then later in the
court dances reflect the beauty of country. Confucianism became the The majority of Koreans have one of day comes the traditional ceremony
moderation and the subdued political ideology of the Joseon a small set of family names: Kim in a different room, in colorful
emotions formed as a Dynasty (A.D. 1392ō1910) and the (about 21% of all Koreans), Yi (or traditional costume.
result of the strong upper-class intellectuals who Lee or Rhee, 14%), Park (or Pak,
influence of produced much of the art were 8%), Choi (or Choe), Jeong (or Jerye (Ancestral Memorial Rite)
Confucian profoundly influenced by the Chung), Jang (or Chang), Han, Lim, According to a traditional Korean
philosophy. In Chinese style. Folk painting, which etc. A Korean name consists of a belief, when people die their spirits
contrast, became popular among the lower family name, in almost every case do not immediately depart; they stay
the folk classes, was not influenced by any

Korea travel guide | 22 | 23 |


with descendants four generations. Ondol
During this period the deceased are Traditional Korean rooms have
still regarded as family members and multiple functions. Rooms are not
Koreans reaffirm the relationship labeled or reserved for a specific
between ancestors and descendants purpose; there is no definite
through jerye on the special days like bedroom or dining room for
Lunar New Year’s Day and example. Rather, tables and mats are
Chuseok, as well as on the day the brought in as needed. Most people
ancestors passed away. Koreans also sit and sleep on the floor on thick
believe that people can live well and mats.

Tourist
happily thanks to benefits their Underneath the floors are stone or
ancestors bestow. concrete flues. Traditionally hot air
was vented through the flues to
Body Language provide heat. Clay or cement would
When you beckon to a person, do be placed over the stones to protect

Attractions
with your palm down and fluttering the residents from noxious gasses.
fingers. It is not polite to beckon This type of underfloor heating is
with palm upōespecially using only called “ondol.” Nowadays hot water
one finger, because Koreans do that is piped through cement floors
way only for dogs. covered with linoleum.

Hanbok Gimjang Seoul 26


Gimjang is the age-old Korean
Seoul Vicinity 68
practice of preparing winter kimchi,
which has been passed down from Eastern Area 72
generation to generation. Because Central Area 76
very few vegetables are grown in the
three or four winter months, gimjang Southeastern Area 80
takes place in early winter and Southwestern Area 92
provides what has become a staple
Korean food.
Jeju-do 98
For Koreans, a dinner table
without kimchi is unthinkable.

Oriental Medicine
Oriental medicine considers
The hanbok has been the Korean decreased vital energy and a
people’s unique traditional costume weakened immune system to be the
for thousands of years. The beauty cause of diseaseōnot a problem of a
and grace of Korean culture can be particular body part, but rather an
seen in photographs of women imbalance of the life forces in the
dressed in the hanbok. whole body. Therefore Oriental
Before the arrival of Western-style medicine seeks to treat disease by
clothing one hundred years ago, the strengthening the immune system
hanbok was everyday attire. Men and restoring the harmony within
wore jeogori (Korean jackets) with the body, not by removing
baji (trousers) while women wore pathogenic factors. Expressway Ferry Terminal Hot Spring Hospital By Bus
jeogori with chima (skirts). Today, Major fields of Oriental medicine National / Beach World Cultural Museum, Gallery By Ferry
Provincial Road Heritage
the hanbok is worn on days of include herbal medicine, Restaurant Mountain Tourist Attraction University Telephone
celebration such as weddings, Seollal acupuncture, moxa treatment, and Shopping Temple Embassy Bank T Transportation
(Lunar New Year’s Day) or Chuseok cupping therapies. Bus Terminal Falls Post Office Movie Theater A Admission Fee
(Thanksgiving Day). City Tour Bus Stop Royal Tomb Airline Office On Foot C Days Closed
Hotel Golf Course Police Station By Subway H Open Hours
Airport Ski Resort Tourist Information By Train L Location
Korea travel guide
Signs such as A1 A2 ... after the tourist destinations in this book indicate their locations on the maps.
EUJEONGBU

SEOUL Dobongsan

Suraksan

DOBONG-GU Buramsan

NOWON-GU

GANGBUK-GU Taereung

GOYANG EUNPYEONG-GU Bukhansan


Hwagyesa

Dream land

SEONGBUK-GU
JUNGNANG-GU
GIMPO
Changgyeonggung Yongma Park
Korea Univ.
Swiss Grand
Changdeokgung Hongneung GURI
JONGNO-GU
Gyeongbokgung DONGDAEMUN-GU
Palace
Seoul SEODAEMUN-GU
World Cup Stadium
KNTO Dongdaemun
GANGSEO-GU Yonsei Univ. Deoksugung Stadium
Palace JUNG-GU Amsa-dong Prehistoric
GWANGJIN-GU Settlement Site
Gimpo Airport MAPO-GU Seoul Station SEONGDONG-GU Walker Hill
Ujang Park Shilla
Jeoldusan Seoul
Martyrs’ Shrine Tower Namsan
Children’s
GANGDONG-GU
Park
INCHEON Mok-dong Park Grand Park
National Holiday Inn Hyatt
Assembly Techno Mart
Mok-dong YONGSAN-GU
Y  Dong Seoul
SSWA
Sports Crown
GYEONG Yongsan
IN EXPRE Complex
Electronics Market
YANGCHEON-GU YEONGDEUNGPO-GU H an Riv e r
KLI 63 Building World Trade Lotte
World Olympic Park
Yeongdeungpo Center Seoul
BUCHEON Station DONGJAK-GU Jamsil Sports HANAM
Complex
Seoul Seonjeongneung
GURO-GU Ritz-Calton
National Palace SONGPA-GU
Cemetery
Boramae Park

GANGNAM-GU
eoul has been the center of

S
Seoul Arts Center
politics, economy, culture, GWANAK-GU
SEOCHO-GU

GY
GEUMCHEON-GU
and transportation of Korea

EO
GWANGMYEONG

NG
Nakseongdae
for six centuries since Taejo, Shrine
SEONGNAM

BU
Seoul Nat’l Univ.
the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, Novotel

EX
broadband
PR
moved the capital here in the third core of Gwanaksan

ES
year (1394) of his reign. Today one
SW
GWACHEON
all branches of knowledge.
quarter of the nation’s population Seoul preserves numerous ANYANG AY
lives in Seoul, which serves as the relics of the Joseon Dynasty: educational institution. The litany blazing the night through; many
Dongdaemun and Namdaemun of Seoul’s cultural heritage is parks and museums; department
Gates; five extant palaces, namely endless. The city’s legacy winds stores and other emporiums; jazz
Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, through its labyrinthine alleys. bars, cafes, a casino, etc. These
Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, At the same time, Seoul has risen make Seoul a favorite tourist
and Gyeonghuigung; royal tombs, as a global landmark of modernity, destination where visitors find all
including Hongneung and with many must-see attractions: the amenities and entertainment
Seonjeongneung; and Lotte World, an amusement park; they could want.
Seonggyungwan, the Confucian Seoul Tower, the symbol of Seoul,
un Gate
Namdaem

Korea travel guide | 26 | 27|


ȭ 02-734-1346; www.nfm.go.kr

Around Gyeongbokgung Palace


ેๆଂ ჵ฼
ʟ: ˴700 ʡ: Tue. and January 1

Cheong Wa Dae ᆖူౄ

t the north end of Sejongno Street appears the imposing

A Gyeongbokgung, the oldest Joseon Dynasty palace. On its


grounds stand the National Museum of Korea and the National
Folk Museum, where visitors can browse the unique cultural and
historical traits of Korea and the lifestyle of olden days.
Geunjeongjeon, the throne hall, Gyeonghoeru Pavilion in its lotus
Gyeongbokgung Palace
ેๆଂ
Geunjeongjeon

This is the presidential residence of the


pond, Hyangwonjeong Pavilion, and many other buildings boast Built in 1394 as the main palace of the
Joseon Dynasty (1392˅1910) by its Republic of Korea. Tours of Cheong Wa
exquisite architecture in the grandest garden landscape. Dae have been conducted since 1998.
founder King Taejo, it is the most
Geonchunmun, the east gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace, opens on comprehensive and grandest of the five Individual tours can be made from 9 a.m.
Samcheongdonggil Street, with its hanbok (traditional dress) shops and palaces of the Joseon Dynasty. to 3 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays in April,
many art galleries. At the northern tip of the one-km strip of May, September, and October. Tour
ȭ 02-734-2458 ʲ: Exit 5 of
tickets are distributed free of charge at the
Samcheongdonggil Street extends to a tree-arched street in front of Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3
Cheong Wa Dae Tour Information Desk
Cheong Wa Dae, adorned with manicured roadside patches. At the end ʦ: 09:00˅18:00 (09:00˅17:00, Nov.˅
located on the grounds of
of the street are cozy Rose of Sharon Garden and Hyojadong Feb.) ʟ: ˴700 ʡ: Tues.
Gyeongbokgung Palace. Reserved group
Community Hall which displays former presidents’ gifts from overseas as tours of up to 30 are possible.
well as memorabilia of Seoul history. National Museum of Korea ȭ 02-737-5800; www.cwd.go.kr
૸඄ჾ࿘ฉෟ૝

Started from the Joseon Dynasty Samcheongdonggil Street


Holy See Samcheong-dong Museum built in 1908, this largest ໚ᆖ౶ଥ
museum in Korea exhibited not only
Rose of Sharon Garden Cheong Wa Dae ᅯဉఝ some 120,000 cultural assets of Korea,
(Mugunghwa dongsan)
but also those of neighboring countries
Chunchumun and regions including China, Japan, and
Gate
Hyoja-dong Community Hall Central Asia. Because the old museum
(Hyoja-dong sarangbang)
building was demolished in 1996, the
JONGNO-GU
Hyangwonjeong current building located inside
Gallery Ihn Gyeongbokgung Palace is for the
l
gi

g
Hyojaro

Gyeongbokgung on The Nest (guesthouse)


gd temporary use and now displays some
Jaham

heo n

Palace Kukje Gallery


ઠฟ૛ 5,400 items in 18 standing exhibition
National Folk Museum
S am c
ungil

Jeongdok Library halls. A new museum is to be completed This street is lined with many famous art
Artsonje Center within Yongsan Family Park by the year galleries such as Gallery Hyundai, Kumho
Gyeonghoeru Geonchunmun 2003. Museum of Art, Artsonje Center, etc.
Gate French Cultural Center
ȭ 02-398-5000; www.museum.go.kr There are also Beomnyeonsa <emple,
Korean Traditional Folk Dress Museum
Kumho Museum of Art ʦ: 09:00 ˅18:00 (09:00 ˅17:00, Nov. ˅ Korean Traditional Folk Dress Museum,
Geunjeongjeon
Gallery Hyundai Feb.) *One hour extension on Sat., Sun. the French Cultural Center, Jeongdok
Jewelbutton & co.
National Museum Beomnyeonsa k National holiday from March to Oct. Library, cafes, restaurants and craft
Cheong Wa Dae gu
of Korea Tour An shops.
Sajik Park Information Korean Publishers Assn. ʟ: ˴700 ʡ: Mon. and Jan. 1
Subway Line Shuttle bus service is offered on a
3 Dongsipjagak
Gyeongbokgu
ng Gwanghwamun Baeksang circuit of art museums and well-known
Seoul Immigration Office Gate Memorial Hall National Folk Museum of
઼ጷබ galleries around this area. The bus pass
Central
Government Complex
Net House Korea ૸඄෽༜ฉෟ૝
In

(Internet cafe) is 1,000 won and available from the bus


Buddhist Articles shops

sa

ႜิთྱᅯຫ
Located within Gyeongbokgung Palace,
do
Sejongno Street

ng driver. Shuttle Bus Information at ȭ 02-


Jogyesa gi
lS the museum is a showcase of the lifestyle
U.S.A. Embassy 720-1020.
tre

of the Korean people from the prehistoric


et

Sejong Center
age to the Joseon Dynasty, displaying
Korea Telecom
ໞႶබጷፂશ e5 Jongno Tower
items of everyday use, funerary objects,
in
Gwanghwamun
S u bw a y L Ⴖചረဲ major works of art, and replicas.
Seoul Metropolitan
Museum YMCA
Kyobo Bldg.
Saemunan Church ોพ๚ಉ Jonggak
Gyeonghuigung Subway Line 1
Palace un Gwanghwamun Post Office
| 28 | 29 |
City Hall

ઠ፻૛ e m Dong Wha DFS Ilmin Gallery


oda
Se Koreana
Around Deoksugung Palace English and Japanese subtitles are
projected on a big screen to help
foreigners get a better understanding of
౏༿ଂ ჵ฼ the performances. (see p.110)
ȭ 02-773-8961/3
www. chongdong.com

cross from City Hall is Deoksugung Palace, one of the five royal

A palaces of the Joseon Dynasty (1392˅1910). It was originally a Rodin Gallery ౏༿ଂ
The Rodin Gallery serves as the world’s
residence for Prince Wolsan (1454˅1488), the elder brother of eighth and Asia’s second museum
King Seongjong, but was used as a main royal palace by some later dedicated solely to the display of Auguste
kings. Particularly, King Gojong, the next-to-last king of the Joseon Rodin’s works. It is located on the ground
Dynasty, remained here even after being forced to abdicate the throne by Deoksugung Palace ౏༿ଂ floor of Samsung Plaza.
Deoksugung Palace complex is dotted ȭ 02-2259-7649, FAX 02-2259-7795 ʲ:
the Japanese in 1907. He lived here until his death in 1919.
with commanding structures: Daehanmun, Exit 8 of City Hall Station, Line 1 or 2 ʦ:
His successor King Sunjong, his son and the last king, gave the palace the main gate; Junghwajeon, the throne 10:00˅18:00 ʡ"Mon.
the present name Deoksugung (meaning Palace of Virtuous Longevity) in hall and audience hall; and Seokjojeon,
the hope that his father would live long here. the only Western-style building in Korean
Nanta Theatre ந቏ଗႦ
A detour onto the tree-lined street on the south side of the palace leads palaces. Seokjojeon now houses the
Royal Museum, which preserves
to the time-honored Chung Dong First Methodist Church. Just across
sophisticated royal court articles of the
the road is the Chongdong Theater, which presents performing arts all Joseon Dynasty, and the Deoksugung Art
year round. Near the palace are such frequently visited spots as Museum, which displays diverse works of
Gyeonghui- gung Palace, the Chosun Ilbo Gallery, Munhwa Ilbo Hall, modern art.
the old Anglican Cathedral, the Former Russian Legation, the ȭ 02-771-9951 ʲ: Exit 2 of City Hall
Agricultural Museum, Nanta Theatre, and so on. Station, Line 1 or 2 ʦ: 09:00˅18:00
Walking toward Sungnyemun Gate (which is nicknamed Namdaemun, (09:00˅17:30, Nov. to Dec.) ʡ"Mon.
ʟ"˴700
or South Gate) from the main gate of Deoksugung, take you to Samsung
Plaza, which contains the Rodin Gallery as well as a shopping mall. The The Nanta Theatre is exclusively for
Chongdong Theater Ⴣ౶ଗႦ performances of Cookin! This wild and
other side of Sungnyemun Gate is Namdaemun Market, filled with funny percussion performance has won
Korea’s first repertory theater. It presents
hundreds of wholesale and retail shops, a favorite spot for foreigners to international awards and acclaim. Cookin!
the “Korean Traditional Performing Arts
visit. Series” at 20:00 every day except is performed on kitchen instruments and
Monday. Main programs include the drum utensils, pots and pans and garbage
Gwanghwamun cans, broomsticks and chopsticks, and
Korea First
dance, pansori (epic solo song), sanjo
Seoul Metropolitan Kyobo Bldg. hapju (an ensemble or orchestra of some especially exciting vegetable
Museum
Saemunangil Street Subway Line1 Jonggak Korean instruments), samulnori chopping on blocks with sharp kitchen
Gyeonghuigung Gwanghwamun
Palace
Dong Wha DFS Post Office (percussion quartet), the sword dance knives.
ઠ፻૛ Ilmin Gallery Youngpoong Lotte
LABO Korea Bookstore Tour and fan dance, etc. ȭ 02-739-8288; www.nanta.co.kr ʲ:
2002 World Cup 2002 World Cup
Information Center Information Center
KNTO
CHB Foreign tourists are given a chance to Exit 5 of Seodaemun Station, Line 5
4

Koreana Finance Center


ne

Former Russian Cultural Property have some pictures taken with performers ʟ"˴20,000 ˅˴30,000
Li

Nanta Anglican New Seoul Artisans Hall


Legation
y

wearing Korean traditional costume.


a

Theatre Cathedral New Kuk Je


bw

Chosun Ilbo Gallery


Su

Korea Press Center


Munhwa Ilbo
City Hall HANA
Must-see in this area
Chongdong
n
mu

Theater
Agricultural Museum Deoksugung
City Hall

Euljiro1-ga
ae

Palace Royal Guard Changing Ceremony in Deoksugung


od

న༘૛ Lotte
Se

President
Lotte
Lotte
Dept.Store
and Changdeokgung Palaces
Daehanmun Duty Free
Seodaemun Chung Dong First Gate
Westin Chosun At Daehanmun of Deoksugung Palace
Police Station Methodist Church
Radisson and Donhwamun of Changdeokgung
JUNG-GU City Hall Annex Seoul Plaza Metro Midopa Palace, there is a reenactment of the
Korean Air all Dept.Store
yH
Cit Cosmos Plaza changing of the royal guards of the Joseon
Hanjin Duty Free Money
2 Exchange Dynasty. It takes place every day except
Line
w ay
S ub Bank of Korea Monday from 14:00 to 15:30 (15:00 ˅
Postal Museum
o 16:30, July to Aug.).
ongn Ho-Am Art Hall
Samsung Plaza Seoul Central
Post Office
ngje Rodin Gallery
C hu ȭ 02-3707-9451
Shinsegae
Dept.Store
Shinhan
Seosomun Park
Sungnyemun Myeong-dong
| 30| 31 |
Gate Namdaemun
༠ഖබ Market
ஆఝබགྷၿ
Namdaemun Market ஭ౄෝཪႦ
Around Myeong-dong
඾౶ ჵ฼

yeong-dong has long been the trend-making center of Korean

M fashion. Lotte, Metro Midopa, and Shinsegae Department


Stores, Migliore, underground and aboveground shopping malls
for apparel, shoes, accessories, and cosmetics appeal to every fad
and mode. Every back alley has cafes and restaurants serving snacks and
delicacies for moments of refreshment during shopping.
On the knoll at far end of the main street of Myeong-dong stands
Myeongdong Cathedral, the Korean Catholic headquarters. Within a
stone’s throw is the YWCA, active in diverse ways to expand women’s
rights.
Within just a few minutes’ walk from Seoul’s ancient Namdaemun Euljiro 1 (il)-ga Subway Line 2 Euljiro
3-ga Sta.
(Sungnyemun or South Gate) is an open-air market of the same President
KEPCO Korea
name. It is close to the downtown area and deluxe hotels, boasting JAL/JAS
Lotte
Plaza
OK Corral
Exchange

treet
T.G.I. Fridays
the very best selection of merchandise in the nation. The market’s Joong Ang

no S
Lotte Dept. Store Korea Korea Federation
Metro
history traces back to the Joseon Dynasty and since then has become ഠవ෱ጷ႙ First of Banks

um
daem
the main transactional place of daily products between urban and Kookmin YWCA Catholic

So
Westin Chosun
Seoul Royal Center

go
Seoul
rural areas of Korea.

Nam
ng
-d
ng Myeong-dong

o
Underground Shopp
Namdaemun Market is also the nation’s wholesale center and SR
ing M
all
Dongas National Souvenir
Center VISA Card
CITI Information
virtually anything you want can be found here: clothing and shoes in Korea

So
go
vast array, housewares, foodstuffs, flowers, tools, wigs, glasses,

ng
Metro Midopa

no
Dept. Store esquire Elcanto
accessories of every kind, gift items, sporting goods, construction

Str
The Body Shop Myeongdong
Korean Air JUNG-GU

ee
Cathedral
materials, electric appliances, furniture, etc.

t
Utoo-Zone ඗౏ໜఙ
Giordano
Having long been perceived as a traditional open-air market, it is Gukbin Banjeom China (P.R.C)

Bank of Korea Gogung


changing its image with new, modern shopping centers, such as Trend 20
Savoy
Postal Museum
Mesa. Seoul Central
Post Office
Yeong Yang
Center Sejong
Cats 21 Kookmin
ȭ 02-752-1913 ʲ: Exit 5 of Hoehyeon Station, Line 4 ʦ: 23:00˅17:00 ʡ"Sun. Who.A.U
Migliore
Daeyungak Chungmuro
SV Center Myeong-dong Sta.
e4
Street Subway Lin
em unno Shinsegae
Korea Herald
Namda Dept. Store Prince
Korea
mun e
dae Arcad First Bank
Namround
e r g
Good & Good National Souvenir Center ȭ 02-778-6529, FAX 02-778-
Und Rode Town
Shinsegae ጤ૸૝ૣ඾ጃჀ 6169; www.souvenir.or.kr
Dept. Store
Namdaemunno 4-ga ʲ: Exit 5 of Euljiro 1 (il)-ga
ཅໞઢ෱ጷ႙
Ginseng Station, Line 2
Daedo
Unnam Arcade Mesa ʦ: 10:30˅21:00
Samick
Sungnyemun
(Namdaemun)
Shopping Town ʡ" Seollal and Chuseok
Chungang g
Bondong Bondong Arcade Daedo Market on
Clothes Arcade
JUNG-GU g-d
Arcade
C-dong
My
eon Myeongdong
Namdaemun

Cathedral ඾౶༃ీ
Eatery Alley

Daehan Fire Daedo Jonghap R oad


Common Plaza ted
& Marine Arcade D-dong va
Insurance Kookmin Ele ro Hanvit Completed in 1898, it
Daedo gye
Arcade Market ‫ڧ‬ Toe
Sungnyemun Imported Daedo Jonghap ‫ڦ‬
is Korea’s first
Goods Arcade Arcade E-dong This souvenir shop displays and sells Western-style brick
Bondong ‫ڡ‬
Arcade
Jentil More 4 more than a thousand exquisite traditional
ne ‫ڢ‬ building designed in
Wings Town Li items that represent Korean culture:
Namdaemun Arcade a Neo-Renaissance
ay

Hanvit lacquerware, woodcraft, textile, acces-


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Arcade
Su

Daedo Lady,
sories, embroidery, knot work, jewelry, style, with a 45-
Daedo Queen
Namdo Jonghap Arcade
Seoul ceramics, Hahoe masks, etc. meter steeple.
Yusong Arcade Kennedy Arcade
& Hanyong Arcade Palace
Namdaemun
Ilbon-ga Arcade
Jangan
| 32 | 33 |
on

Accessories
ye

Arcade
eh
Ho

Gookjae Imported
Goods Arcade
Around Insa-dong Insadonggil Street ႏ໒౶ଥ A grand lotus lantern parade takes
place along the Jongno Street from
Dongdaemun Stadium to Jogyesa
ႏ໒౶ ჵ฼ Temple some evening before Buddha’s
birthday, which falls on the 8th day of the
4th lunar month. (May 12 in 2002)
Foreign individual tourists can be
long the streets of Insa-dong, visitors are lured by hundreds of

A
ushered by an English-speaking guide
shops brimful with traditional ink paintings, calligraphic works, free of charge upon request.
antique furniture, curios, handicrafts, ceramics, and modern-style ȭ 02-732-5292; www.ijogyesa.net ʲ:
traditional dresses. Even a single fan pays tribute to nature. Each Frequented by local and foreign visitors Exit 2 of Jonggak Station, Line 1
little necklace is strung with the elegant glow of tradition. all year round, it is the most renowned
In Insa-dong’s back alleys, shoulder to shoulder, are traditional-style cafes area for fans of Korean antiques and fine Bosingak Bell Pavilion
arts.
and restaurants serving folk menus that are hearty and ample. Every ๅཬઃ

Sunday Insa-dong is closed to vehicles to offer free strolling and local-color ȭ 02-731-1621 / 2

performing events including traditional percussion band music.


Adjacent to Insa-dong are the Nagwon Arcade with its musical Unhyeongung Palace ၑፉଂ
instrument market and rice-cake and delicacy shops; Unhyeongung
Palace, the residence of the Regent Daewongun of the late Joseon
Dynasty, who closed the doors of the kingdom to foreigners; and Jogyesa,
the head temple of Korea’s largest Buddhist sect, Jogyejong. Visitors can
experience a Buddhist worship service laden with the fragrance of incense
This is the belfry for a 3.18 m-tall bronze
performed in Jogyesa Temple. The street passing Jogyesa Temple is lined
bell of the early Joseon period, the
with shops packed with wooden clappers, gray robes, rosaries, incense, original of which is now kept in the
brassware and other Buddhist articles. A private house of the royal family during National Museum. Today, this bell tolls on
At the same time, a bit further along towards Jonggak Station of the late Joseon period, it consists of the New Year’s Day, Independence
Subway Line 1 is Jongno Tower, which commands a fine view of Seoul’s several elegant buildings. Here King Movement Day (March 1) and Liberation
Day (August 15).
nightscape. Across from the Jongno Tower are the historical Bosingak Gojong, the next-to-last king of the
Bell Pavilion and Youngpoong Bookstore under street level. Joseon Dynasty, was born and grew up ʲ: Exit 4 of Jonggak Station, Line 1
until age 12, and his father, known as
Daewongun, attended to the state affairs
Public Information
and Cultural Center
Jongno Tower ოു቏ၙ
k as regent for ten years (1863˅1873).
gu of Japan
An 7n the last Saturday of April and A new landmark in downtown Seoul with
Baeksang Memorial Hall
October annually, the wedding ceremony a distinctive design and a fantastic night
Subway Jongno Police
Line 3 Station Unhyeongung Palace view. On its top floor is the Top Cloud Grill
ဪጢ૛ of King Gojong and Queen Myeongseong
Hankook Ilbo & Cafe which is best known for its glass
Ea

Crown Bakery Gana Art Unhyeongung Gallery is reenacted here.


ter

Space walls, providing stunning views of Seoul,


yA

Japan Gallery ʲ: Exit 4 of Anguk Station, Line 3


In

Dongduk Art Gallery as well as for its savory fusion foods and
lley
sa

Hak Ko Jae ʦ: 09:00˅18:00 (09:00˅17:00, Nov.˅


Banyaro
do

Ujeongchongguk Kyung-In Art Gallery a live jazz. The underground is


ng

(Central Post office site) Feb.) ʡ"Mon. ʟ"˴700


gi
Buddhist Articles Shops

Insa Gallery Nagwon called the Millennium


l

Insa Art Center


YTN Gallery Savina Ricecake Shop
Plaza, occupied
Ujeonggungno

Jogyesa Sanggojae Sanchon Jogyesa Temple ვૉ໒ by a range of


Ⴎઢຫ Arirang Han’s Institute
Korea Investment Tong-In of Culinary Arts restaurants
Bank Store Nagwon and shops.
Jongno-gu JONGNO-GU Arcade
Office Il Mare ୿ဴືਜ਼
Sun Gallery
Dukwon
Jongno 3-ga
ʲ: Exit 3
Sambong Gallery
gil Street of Jonggak
Gong Gallery
Hollywood
Gong Pyong Station,
Art Center Gallery Sang Kwangjuyo
Seoul
Kwaejina Chingching Line 1
Hakada Udong Seoul Tapgol Park
Ijo Byeonggwa ሮફલဴ
Jongno Tower
Korea First Bank Ⴖചረဲ
YMCA
Jewelry Shops Jongno 2-ga
Post Office Unlike most Buddhist temples in Korea
Jonggak Subway Line 1
Chongno which are nestled in the mountains, this
Jongno 3-ga
Youngpoong Bookstore Berger King one is located city center.
Bookstore
Bosingak Bell Pavilion

Korea travel guide | 34 | 35 |


Around Daehangno Street
ౄጣുჵ฼૛ ૎ଂಠ

aehangno is the cradle

D of Korean performing
arts, the off-Broadway
of Korea. Small theaters,
galleries, cafes, folk taverns, and
restaurants are sprawled around
Marronnier Park.
Various outdoor sculpture
and painting exhibitions and
Daehangno
performing arts are offered on makeshift stages on the street. About 40
theaters and several museums attract throngs of young people. Amidst Daehangno Street ౄጣു that visitors can enjoy both for only ˴700.
these heart-pounding streets is poised a serene compound called Ihwajang ȭ 02-762-8263 ʲ: Exit 4 of Jongno 3
The literal meaning of Daehangno is
(Rhiwhachang), which was once the manor of the first Korean president, “university street” because until mid- (sam)-ga Station, Line 1, 3, or 5 ʦ: 06:00˅
Syngman Rhee, now renovated as a museum. 1970s it had the campus of the Seoul 18:00 (06:00˅19:00, Sat., Sun., and national
Nearby are Jongmyo, the Royal Ancestral Shrine, and Changgyeong- National University on the current holidays); 06:30˅17:30, Nov.˅Feb.
Marronnier Park site. ʡ"Tues. ʟ"˴700
gung Palace. Between Jongmyo and Changgyeonggung slices a busy road,
but a park-to-park pedestrian bridge spans it. There is also Changdeokgung
Jongmyo, Royal Ancestral Changgyeonggung Palace
Palace with its beautiful rear garden, Huwon(or Biwon,“Secret Garden”). ᅽેଂ
Jongmyo and Changdeokgung are registered on the UNESCO’s World Shrine ო෕
First built by the fourth ruler King Sejong
Cultural Heritage List. Another nearby historical spot is Seonggyungwan, (r.1418˅1450) for his retiring father King
the Confucian university founded in 1398 at the start of the Joseon Taejong, this palace was often used as
Dynasty. the residence of queens and concubines.
This palace became a park with a zoo
Trek Korea
(guesthouse) and a botanical garden during the
SungKyunKwan Univ. Samseongyo
Japanese colonial rule. The zoo was
moved out and the palace regained its old
Seonggyungwan Catholic Univ. grace in the 1980s after years of
Dongsung of Korea
ໜ૭શ restoration work. This palace is unique in
Cinematec
Inkel Art Hall
Dongsoong Art Center
that its front gate and the throne hall face
Huwon (Secret Garden) CHB
east while those in all the other palaces
ፎဴ
Batanggol Art Center face the south.
Blue Bird Theater
Hyehwa

ȭ 02-762-4868 ʲ: Exit 4 of Hyehwa


Museum of African Art Station, Line 4 ʦ: 09:00˅18:00 (09:00˅
Changdeokgung
Palace Munye Theater Jongmyo was one of three main state 17:30 , Nov. ˅Feb.) ʡ"Tues. ʟ"˴700
Museum of ᅖన૛ Marronnier
Theater institutions of the Joseon Dynasty along
Korea Buddhist Art Art Center
Daehangno Street

Marronnier with Gyeongbokgung, the main palace,


Park
H & CB and Sajikdan which, now in Sajik Park, is
Seoul National Korea Nat’l Open Univ. the national altar for the gods of earth and
University Hospital
crops. Jongmyo enshrines spirit tablets of
Donhwamun Changgyeonggung
Yongsusan
Yulgongno
Palace Joseon kings and their queens.
ᅖઠ૛
Ihwajang Nowadays, once a year on the first
g uk ၦጷၿ
An Unhyeongung Sunday of May the rituals are conducted
Palace
ဪጢ૛ Jongmyo according to strict procedures in an
Subw

Royal Shrine JONGNO-GU austere ambiance. Accompanying music


Ⴖථ
Su
ay Lin

Jungang
and dance keeps intact the old authentic
bw
a
y

Nagwon form. Jongmyo is conveniently connected


Li
e3

The Korean
ne

Arcade
Church Centennial to Changgyeonggung by a footbridge so
4

Subway Line 5 Jongno 3-ga Memorial Building

Dongdaemun Dongdaemun Gate


Jongn

Tapgol Park Police Station


ሮફલဴ
Subway Line 1 | 36 | 37 |
o 3-ga

Piccadilly Dan Seong Sa


Jongno 4-ga Jongno 5-ga
Jonggak
highest academic achievements from
across the country. Main facilities here
are a lecture hall, dormitories, and a
shrine to Confucius and distinguished
Dongdaemun Market ౶ౄෝཪႦ

Confucian scholars. Every spring and fall,


a traditional Confucian memorial service Some of the greatest bargains can
is held at the shrine. be found at Dongdaemun Market,
ȭ 02-765-0501 ʲ: Exit 4 of Hyehwa a large area packed with small shops
Station, Line 4 ʦ: 09:00˅17:00 ʡ"Sun. and big malls. Some ten or so
modern clothing malls have sprung
Ihwajang, the Syngman Rhee up among the long-established
Memorial ႍ፞Ⴆ
older markets. Shops are open all
night, brightly lit and playing
Huwon cheerful music.
The biggest items are fabrics,
Changdeokgung Palace ᅽ౏
clothing, leather goods, women’s
ଂ and Huwon ፵ၛ
and children’s costumes, bedding,
Used as main palace by many Joseon
housewares, footwear, sporting
kings and has been the best preserved
among the five royal Joseon palaces. It is
goods, etc.
best known for its beautiful garden for the Dongdaemun has become
royal family, Huwon, or Biwon (“Secret famous for nearly the same clothing
Garden”) with its superb landscape with as available at department stores, at
pavilions, ponds, and wooded areas.
very reasonable prices.
Daily guided tours of the palace and its
garden are available in English: 11:30, These days, it is attracting big public attention with such modern
13:30 and 15:30. Ihwajang or Rhiwhachang is a typical shopping malls as Migliore, Doosan Tower, Uno Coré, Hye Yang
ȭ 02-762-9513 ʲ: Exit 3 of Anguk
Korean mansion built in the 1930s. Dr. Elicium, Freya Town and Designer Club especially appealing to
Rhee lived here from 1947 until he moved people in their teens and twenties.
Station, Line 3 ʦ: 09:15˅17:15 (09:00˅
to Gyeongmudae (the present Cheong
16:00, Nov.˅Feb.) ʡ"Mon. ʟ"˴2,200 Dongdaemun Market Information Center ȭ 02-2261-2192/4, FAX 02-2254-1676
Wa Dae) on August 15, 1948, as the first
president of the Republic of Korea. It (interpretation and buying guide available) ʲ: Dongdaemun Stadium Station of Subway
Seonggyungwan ༃ଔ૝ displays a variety of his personal and Line 2, 4 or 5

The highest educational institution for household items that he and Mrs. Rhee
Confucian teachings and studies during used.
the Joseon Dynasty. The institution ȭ 02-747-8514 ʲ: Exit 2 of Hyehwa
accommodated about 200 students of Station, Line 4

Traditional Confucian rituals, Seonggyungwan

Korea travel guide | 38 | 39 |


Around Namsan Park
஭໕૙ၛ ჵ฼

amsan Park climbs the slope of the Mt.

N
Namsan. Seoul Tower, a city landmark,
presents an unobstructed panorama.
Below it are the octagonal pavilion
Palgakjeong, a small zoo, a botanical garden,
Namsan Public Library, Patriot Ahn Choong National Theater

Kun Memorial Hall, and convenience facilities.


Meandering strolling paths and jogging courses Seoul Tower ໶ၒ቏ၙ including five traditional Korean houses or
hanok from the Joseon Dynasty. These
through lush trees make this a perfect spot to
houses were moved from their original
unwind at the end of the day. locations scattered around Seoul and
For an easy ascent of Mt. Namsan one can take restored completely.
the cable car from the station at its foot. Some will prefer the steps leading ȭ 02-2266-6937/8, FAX 02-2266-6936
past Namsan Botanical Garden to Palgakjeong Pavilion all the way up to ʲ: Exit 3 of Chungmuro Station, Line 3 or
Seoul Tower. 4 , then 7 min. ʦ: 09:00˅18:00 (09:00˅
The tower accommodates the Global Village Folk Museum, a 3-D 17:00, Nov.˅ Feb.) ʡ: Tues.
theater, and Pulhyanggi Restaurant featuring mountain vegetable dishes
plus performance of traditional arts. The tower also presents a fine
nightscape.
Commanding a fine view of Seoul, Seoul
The northern foot of Mt. Namsan is dotted with cultural facilities. Tower is equipped with observatories and
Korea House offers traditional cuisine and traditional performing arts a revolving restaurant with a full-circle
programs in an elegant ambiance. Namsan Hanok Village has a cluster of view; the Global Village Folk Museum that
traditional houses moved here and refurbished some years ago. The maintains over 20,000 rare and precious
relics from over 150 countries, a 3-D
National Theater’s opera and dance companies provide colorful repertoire theater, etc.
year round, and for those interested in learning the Korean traditional tea
Ҙ Cable Car (ȭ 02-753-2403)
ceremony, cookery, and etiquette, there is Yejiwon (ȭ 02-2253-2211,
ʲ: Exit 3 of Myeong-dong Station, Line 4 Korea House ጤ૸ႈ ᄜ
e-mail: yejiwon @yejiwon.or.kr). then 15 min. ʦ: 10:00˅22:30 Korea House is an excellent example of
ʟ"˴3,500 for a one-way ticket, ˴4,800 for traditional architecture, where visitors can
Sejong uro a round ticket
Shinsegae ungm enjoy authentic Korean table d’h˶ ote and
Dept. Store Ch
Myeong-dong Chung-ang Univ. Ҙ Seoul Tower (ȭ 02-775-6222)
ine4 Prince
Astoria Medical Center traditional Korean music and dance
ayL New Oriental
Sofitel ʦ: 09:00˅01:00 (for the observatory)
bw Subw
a Ambassador performances, as well as purchase a
Su Pacific Korea House y Lin
e3
ዽ૑ၡჵ ʟ"˴10,000 for observatory, museum, variety of traditional handicrafts. A
Asiana Airlines Dongguk
Univ. Funny World, 3-D theater.
n

reservation is required. (see p.115)


eo

Palace Seoul Rex Namsan Hanok Dongguk Univ.


hy
oe

Village ஆຮફዽ࿽ൠၕ
Jangchung Park Jangchung ȭ 02-2266-9101; www.koreahouse.or.kr
H

Namsan Cable Car ing Gymnasium


an H i k
Namsan Hanok Village
Tr

Boarding Place ms ʲ: Exit 3 of Chungmuro Station, Line 3 or


ail

Na
Shilla ஭໕૒ ጤဤ ඇၼ 4 then 5 min.
JUNG-GU
Baekbeom This beautiful village, covering a site of
Plaza Patriot Ahn Choong Kun
Memorial Hall 7,934 square meters, is composed of The National Theater ૸඄ଗႦ
Zoo three parts: a traditional Korean garden, Nestled on a slope of Mt. Namsan, it
Namsan Botanical Garden National Theater Time Capsule Plaza, and the village itself
Namsan Public Library ૑൝૰ၿ houses large and small performance halls
Seoul Tower ໏ါረဲ
Freedom Center and outdoor stages. It is the home of the
Global Village Folk Museum
Palgakjeong Pavilion Yejiwon
National Drama Company, National
l

Pulhyanggi
ne
un

Tower
Dance Company, National Changgeuk
IQZ T

Goethe Institute
ZMX san
3rd

Namsan Park Company and National Orchestra


MZ am
Nams
Nam

1st
] nd N

ஆຮલဴ Company.
Na
Sow

san

VL
2
an

H ȭ 02-2264-8448; www.ntok.go.kr
san
olgil

Tun

iking Tr a i

Tu
ne

nn
l

| 40 | 41 |
el
l
Itaewon ႍ቙ၛ Around Yeouido
ဌႈ౬ ჵ฼

eouido shows another

Y look of Seoul. Finance


and business thrive here
with the Korea Stock
Exchange, surrounding
headquarters buildings of
securities firms, the Federation of
Korean Industries, the Korean
Federation of Small and Medium
Businesses, the Seoul Yeouido
Exhibition Center which sells the
top-notch products of small and medium entrepreneurs, the studios of
Korea’s three broadcasting majors, KBS, MBC, SBS, etc.
From the Itaewon Intersection, this special tourism zone stretches
The KLI 63 Building, the golden landmark of Yeouido, is packed with
all the way past the Hamilton Hotel to Hannam-dong. It is
fun facilities including a huge-screen I-Max Theater, a magnificent
honeycombed with about 2,000 shops as well as jazz bars,
aquarium, rooftop observation deck, shopping mall, and restaurants.
nightclubs, and ethnic restaurants. This district is popular with
LG Science Hall in the LG Twin Towers shows children the new
both foreign residents and tourists.
scientific possibilities of tomorrow. Yeouido Park and Hangang Riverside
In the core area around the Hamilton Hotel are clustered 1,000
Park are fine places for rest and for sun-drenched outdoor sports. Ferry
shops selling leather goods, bags, clothes, shoes, and tourist
boats ply the waterfront. A cruise along the Han River, the lifeline flowing
souvenirs. The sidewalk is fringed with about 400 roadside stalls
through the heart of Seoul, offers plenty of picturesque views.
attracting shoppers with accessories, hats, T-shirts, small gadgets,
and much more. Itaewon is the area most densely packed with Seogang
diverse ethnic restaurantsōItalian, Swiss, German, Mexican, Bridge
idg
e
Han River Br
o
Indian, Pakistan, Thai, etc. National
Assembly M
ap

Itaewon comes alive with exciting nighttime entertainment National


Assembly
Memorial
Museum Ha
nga
when the lights are turned down in the business districts. Roadside ૑ፂၡຫఙ
Full Gospel
ng
R iv 5
Church ers ne
stalls shift to hundreds of carts with drinks and snacks. With many The National
Assembly New Yoido ide
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Li
SBS Pa
karaoke and fancy disco clubs, Itaewon is ablaze the night through. National Library Manhattan bw
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The new Subway Line 6 stops here. Office Building Federation of
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| 42 | 43 |
KLI 63 Building ກರ
Around Samseong-dong
໚༃౶ ჵ฼

amseong-dong area is

The road around the National Assembly


is well-known for cherry blossoms in
spring.
ȭ 02-788-2885/2932; www.assembly.go.kr
S the showcase of
Seoul’s new
quintessence. This
area has been developed since
the 1970s as a new business
ʲ: No. 48 or 53 (3 min.) from Yeouido
Station, Line 5 ʦ: 09:00─18:00 (09:00 ─
center. Including World
With three underground and 60 17:00, Nov.─Feb.) Trade Center Seoul, the area
aboveground floors, this golden tower is houses boutiques, world-class
the tallest building in Korea. The rooftop Yeouido Park ဌႈ౬૙ၛ hotels, department stores,
observation deck, I-Max Theater, and the high-rise apartment complexes, plus the Teheran Valley where many
Aquarium 63 Sea World offer much to
up-and-coming dot-com enterprises cluster.
see. Sea World displays 20,000 marine
creatures of 400 species. A health club, Across the street from Convention and Exhibition Center (COEX) lies
shopping mall, classy restaurants, and time-honored Bongeunsa Temple. Nearby Seolleung Station of Subway
snack bars give visitors diverse options Line 2 are the Joseon Dynasty royal tombs Seonjeongneung. Another
for spending a day by the river. attraction is the Seoul Training Center for Important Intangible Cultural
ȭ 02-789-5663/5; www.ds63.co.kr ʲ: Properties, showing and selling a variety of exquisite handicrafts made by
Exit 1 of Yeouinaru Station, Line 5, and then
nationally designated master artisans.
taxi ʦ: 10:00˅ 21:00 ʟ"ӗ17,500 for use
of all facilities Yeouido Plaza, which was paved flat for
the past 27 years, was magically

g
Brid ngdon
Galleria Dept. Store
National Assembly ૸፩ႈ໒ీ transformed into the enchanting Yeouido Apgujeongno

ge
Park with groves, grass, pond, and LG Fashion

Yeo
Boutique
The site of the National Assembly covers Ap & Ar
Rodeo Stre t
pavilions in 1999. A bicycle road and gu et Elle Lui

Ga
12.5% of Yeouido Island. Here is the Han River
je

Chilis Once in a
walking trails circle the park and are Clover

l l e ry

Brid ongdam
on

Hanyang Town Blue Moon


largest national assembly building in Asia.
g

conveniently linked through an Hyundai COCO’s Designer Club

Stre
There are also the National Assembly Dept. Italianni’s Dosan Riviera

ge
Prima
underground sidewalk to the waterfront of Park

Che
et
Store Samwon
Memorial Museum and the National Cine Plus Garden
౅ຮલဴ
the Han River. Irioneora Malli- T.G.I.Friday’s
Assembly Library. You may apply for a jangseong Cheongdam
Yeongdong Fire & Police Station Park
Eon

tour at the information desk at the rear ʲ: Exit 3 of Yeouido Station, or Exit 1 of ᅯకલဴ
Cine House Tiffany
ju

Sunshine
gate. Yeouinaru Station, Line 5
ro

KORA
gdam
Cheon
e7
ay Lin
Subw
Nearby Attraction Anse Hosp. ffice
Seoul
nam-gu O
Customs Office Gang
Museum of Gangnam-gu Office
Hak-dong Korean Embroidery Koryeo Jeong
Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market ௦ഡᄗ༿໕ཪႦ Park Bongeunsa ฦၔຫ
g
About 900 shops on the 69,000-square- don
Seoll
- GANGNAM-GU
Hak Amiga
ASEM Tower
meter compound sell everything from eung
Giant COEX World Trade
Center Seoul
No

Inter-Continental
flopping live fish to dried and picked fish COEX
no
nhy

products. Every day about 450 tons of fish Kimchi Field


eon

Hilltop Seoul Training Center Trade Tower


New World Museum
caught from inshore and the deep seas
no

for the Important Intangible Seonjeongneung


New Hilltop Cultural Properties Korea City
are traded here. The fishery auction starts (Royal Tombs)໓ႜൔ KFTA
໏ါთဠඳጨබጷႁ႖༘ፂશ Air Terminal
Hyundai ng
at 03:00 and retail sales run afterwards, seo
Seolleung Jeongneung Dept. Store Sam
usually from 06:00 to around 18:00 year y
alle
an V
Dynasty Grand
around. Fresh fish prices usually go down e r
Samjung Green Grass Teh Inter-Continental
on rainy days and on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Pick your fish from a tank; a Novotel Ambassador Chunghyeon g
Gangnam lleun
cheerful fishmonger will slice it up to be served nearby, or for takeout. Ritz-Carlton Renaissance Seoul Seo
ȭ 02-814-2211; www.susansijang.co.kr 2
Kukkiwon Line
way
ʲ: Noryangjin Station, Line 1 (station connected to the market)
(World Taekwondo Sub
Headquarters)

Korea travel guide | 44 | 45 |


World Trade Center Seoul Champ, an arcade with over 100 of the
ේဍ༇ቤ latest game machines; Megabox
Cineplex with 16 screening rooms; and
the 1.4-ha COEX Aquarium, showing
more than 30,000 fish of 500 species and
dozens of big, toothy sharks; Kimchi Field
Museum, on the second underground
level of COEX Mall, containing an
extensive kimchi displays such as
recipes, techniques, etc.
(www.kimchimuseum.or.kr)
ҧ COEX Aquarium (ȭ 02-6002-6200)
ʦ: 10:00˅ 21:00 (10:00˅ 22:00, Sat.)
ʟ"ӗ14,500
Bongeunsa Temple
The WTCS refers to a large area that
includes the COEX, state-of-the-art Bongeunsa Temple ํၻ໒
and promote traditional Korean arts and
convention and exhibition facilities; 55- The Venerable Yeonhoe built this temple then 8 min ʦ: 10:00˅18:00 ʡ" Sun.,
the skills of artisans designated as
story Trade Tower which houses trade- in 794 during the reign of King Wonseong national holidays except Seollal and Chuseok
“Important Intangible Cultural Properties.”
related organizations and export firms; of the Silla Kingdom. Its Sutra Hall in The center has exhibition halls and a
ASEM Tower, a new office building; which hangs a commemorative wooden shop displaying and selling a variety of Kukkiwon (World
Korea City Air Terminal which handles tablet inscribed by the nation’s most
check-in and immigration procedures and
crafts, a traditional art performing hall and Taekwondo Headquarters)
celebrated calligrapher, Chusa (pen workshops where artisans versed in 11 ૸ଡၛ
provides non-stop airport limousine bus name) Kim Jeong-hui (1786─1856), different arts and crafts items train
service. This is an ideal venue for any preserves woodblocks for 15 Buddhist Established to promote taekwondo
aspiring successors and show their
large-scale meeting or exhibition. sutras, including the Diamond Sutra. nationwide. It organizes national or
working to the public.
ȭ 02-551-0114 ʲ: Exit 6 of Samseong The temple runs meditation programs international taekwondo competitions,
ȭ 02-566-5951, FAX 02-566-5954 judges ranking promotion and operates
Station, Line 2 from 04:00 to 21:00 every day and tea
ceremony programs between 13:00 and ʲ: Exit 8 of Seolleung Station, Line 2 training courses for taekwondo coaches
15:00 every Tuesday. and international umpires.
COEX Mall ሓစཡ ළ The World
Under the WTCS, this huge mall (about ȭ 02-516-5652 ʲ: Exit 6 of Samseong
Taekwondo
12 ha) stretches from Samseong Subway Station, Line 2 or Cheongdam Station, Line 7
Federation is
Station to ASEM Tower. Along the located here.
underground labyrinth are a variety of Seoul Training Center for ȭ 02-567-
amenities and facilities, including Lake
the Important Intangible 1058, FAX 02-
Food Court with ethnic restaurants; Event
Court for concerts and dramas; Dache, a
Cultural Properties 552-3025 ʲ:
໶ၒჾ၇ේፏෝ፞ႨႽ༿፩૝ Exit 8 of
clothing complex where more than 400
Gangnam Station,
retailers are doing business; Game This institution is designed to preserve
Line 2

Nearby Attraction

Apgujeong-dong and Vicinity ࿕૷Ⴣ౶


The development of the Apgujeong-dong
area was triggered by the building of the
Apgujeong Apartment Complex on pear
orchards in 1973. Now it has become a
popular upper-class residential area.
Naturally the nearby streets are full of
chic boutiques for vintage fashion goods,
trendy coffee lounges, restaurants,
nightclubs, etc.
Most properly expressing the nature of
this area is the road nicknamed Rodeo Street. One block away is Boutique and Art
Gallery Street.
ʲ: Exit 2 of the Apgujeong Station, Line 3
Megabox Cineplex, COEX Mall

Korea travel guide | 46 | 47 |


Around Jamsil Seoul Nori Madang ໶ၒ௩ႍඇీ

An open-air stage for Korean traditional


Ⴂ཮ჵ฼ performances such as the farmers’ dance
and mask dance. On Saturday and Sunday
afternoons, people crowd around the stage
he area around the Jamsil

T
beside Seokchonho Lake for traditional
Station of Subway Line 2 performances. (see p.110)
Magic Island, Lotte World
is one of Seoul’s ȭ 02-410-3410/3
subcenters. Here is Lotte Lotte World േ౜ၜಜ
World, Korea’s largest indoor Cutting-edge twister riders, fancy parades,
amusement park, which makes variety shows, movies, and much more in
the area the most frequently the way of thrills and fun go on here year-
round. The recommendable Folk Museum
visited by the young generation. offers a pavilion course through Korean
It is composed of Lotte World history, miniature villages, etc.
Adventure with Magic Island, ȭ 02-411-4040; www.lotteworld.com
which floats in a lake, a shopping Jamsil Baseball Stadium ʲ: Exit 8 of Jamsil Station, Line 2 or 8
mall, a fine folklore museum, ʦ: 09:30˅23:00 ʟ"ӗ25,000 for all-round
movie theaters, an ice rink, a deluxe hotel and a sports center. ticket
Jamsil Sports Complex
The Seoul Nori Madang, an outdoor amphitheater, at the lakeside behind Ⴂ཮ოጨၑ౶Ⴆ

Lotte World, presents traditional performing arts. A ten-minute stroll to the Seokchon-dong Early This sports complex comprises main
east brings one to the Seokchon-dong Early Baekje Stone Tombs, which Baekje Stone Tombs stadium, swimming pool, gymnasium,
໷ᆧ౶ ธჅ૎๝ૹ baseball stadium, etc. The spacious
preserve traces of riverside dwelling of the Baekje Kingdom’s capital,
lawns, cozy pavilions, and stroll paths of
Hanseong, along with the Bangi-dong Baekje Tombs. well-manicured Asia Park make it a good
Nearby are Garak-dong Agricultural and Marine Products Wholesale place for cultural events as well as rest. At
Market, and Munjeong-dong Rodeo Street where you can buy Korean the baseball stadium, cheers rise to skies
made or foreign brand names at discounted prices. Jamsil Sports during the professional baseball season,
Complex was the global arena for the 1986 Asian Games and 1988 Seoul usually running from April to October.

Olympic Games. ȭ 02-2240-8800 ʲ: Exit 6 of Sports


Complex Station, Line 2 ʦ: 09:00˅18:00
Seo

Jamsil Bridge
(09:00 ˅17:00, Nov.˅Feb.) ʟ"ӗ200 for
Here are six tombs from the early Baekje
ngn

Hangang Riverside Park y ss the main stadium


sswa hon rtre
ae

Jamsil Pleasure xpre ngc Fo Kingdom. Among them a representative


Olympic Boat Terminal pic E Mo rthen
Stadium Olym Ea stone-piled tomb of three stories was
Small & Medium Industry Product Center Hyanggun
Gymnasium Traffic Center
Hoegwan presumably built for a Baekje ruler in the
Indoor Songpa-gu Goguryeo-tomb style, when Goguryeo
Jamsil Sports SONGPA-GU sil Office
Swimming Pool
Lotte World Jam people went down from northern district
Complex
ၻཇႶጁဪ౏ၿ Folk Museum
Students Seokchonho and estalished the Baekje Kingdom (18
Lotte Dept.Store
Baseball Gymnasium Subway Line Lake ໐ᆀጭ Olympic B.C.─ A.D. 660)
Stadium 2 Sincheon Galleria Lotte World Park
o m p lex
Sports
C Dept. Store Lotte Duty-free Shop Bangi-dong Baekje
Asia Park World Tombs
ȭ 02-410-3662 ʲ: Exit 8 of Seokchon
ഠవဵ౵
Seoul Nori Madang Station, Line 8 ʦ: 09:00˅18:00 (09:00˅
Magic 17:00, Nov.˅Feb.)
Seokc Island
Samhaksagil

hon H
osugil
Se

New Star
Nearby Attraction
o
o

kc
nn

ho

Jamsil
eo

n
mj
Sa

Su

Jamsil Garak-dong Agricultural and Marine Products


bw

B a ek Mireugam
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ay

Seokchon-dong Wholesale Market ંഉ౶௮༿໕ෟཪႦ


L
ine

Early Baekje
8

Stone Tombs
෱႞ધึ૒ This is Korea’s largest wholesale market, with 17 buildings accommodating an
Tan agricultural market, a fishery market, and a livestock market on a 54-ha compound.
So

cheo
nS
n

trea Products are sold at retail, too.


gp

m
a

ȭ 02-405-9600, FAX 02-405-9595 ʲ: Exit 8 of Garak Market Station, Line 8


Garak-dong Agricultural
& Marine Products Wholesale Market
ਜ਼ೢ౏ே༘ຮම౅൯གྷၿ

Korea travel guide | 48 | 49 |


Olympic Park ဦඃጛ૙ၛ Bangi-dong Baekje
Around Olympic Park Tombs ตႍ౶ธჅ૎๝ૹ
ဦඃጛ૙ၛ ჵ฼ The eight tombs remaining in the park
feature with a stone chamber and a soil
mound, typical of the early Baekje period
(A.D. 200˅475). Found in the area was a
ver a vast expanse of over 1,500 ha hearth proving prehistoric habitation, as

O (1.5 million square meters),


including the ancient site of the
Mongchon Earthen Fortress dating
back to the early Baekje Kingdom,
Olympic Park houses six sports facilities
Peace Gate

Olympic Park was a venue for the


Olympic Games held in 1988. It
well as stone tables, fragments of stone
swords and Baekje earthenware. In view
of discoveries, the area is assumed to
have been a base of Baekje culture over
a long period.

accommodates a velodrome, weightlifting


where competitions were held during the
and fencing gymnasiums, tennis courts, a
1988 Seoul Olympic Games, gymnastics hall and an indoor swimming
commemorative monuments, and 200 pool. One of the attractions here is the
Sculpture Park
original sculptures by world-renowned open-air Sculpture Park with 200 modern
artists. stone, metal, wood and glass sculptures.
Also found in the park are a lake with a
Nearby are Amsa-dong Prehistoric Settlement Site boasting the largest
fountain, a sprawling lawn, and
number of ancient dwelling sites in Korea and suggesting something Mongchon Earthen Fortress from the
about the Neolithic lifestyle on the peninsula, the Bangi-dong Baekje early Backje Kingdom period.
Tombs, and Pungnap Earthen Fortress. ȭ 02-410-1360 ʲ: Olympic Park ȭ 02-419-0670 ʲ: Exit 8 of Bangi
Amsa-dong Station, Line 5 Station, Line 5 ʦ: 09:00˅18:00 (09:00˅
Prehistoric
Settlement Site
ྭຫ౏໓ຫ჎੿ხ
Gan
gdon
17:00, Nov.˅ Feb.)
g
Amsa-dong Prehistoric
Settlement Site ࿔໒౶໺໒ჵદၰႼᄕ Pungnap Earthen Fortress
e
Gangdong-gu Offic

Pungnap-dong GANGDONG-GU
The prehistoric settlement site in Amsa- Wall ጆமቻ༃
Gangdong-gu
es
s
Office dong is located at the edge of the Han
Fo
rtr Stretching to the southeast from Cheonho
Pu en
Gangdong River in Gangdong-gu. The relics were
ng
na Ear
th

 Police Station and Olympic Bridges, this earthen fortress
p

ቔ discovered in 1925 when heavy rains in
ዟ Seongnae-dong was where Baekje’s King Gaero was
LA that year overflowed the river uncovering
killed during the invasion of Goguryeo
numerous pieces of earthenware and
hon

Asan Medical Center King Jangsu.


Dunc

(Seoul Jung-ang Hospital)


Ga
ng
stoneware. Remaining in the area is the
do ȭ 02-410-3148
e8

ng
da site of Neolithic habitation dating back to
Lin

ero
about 6000 B.C.
ay
bw

Seongnaecheon
Su

ȭ 02-3426-3867 ʲ: Amsa Station, Line


Sincheon-dong Olympic Mongchon Earthen 8 ʦ: 09:30˅18:00 (09:30˅17:00, Nov.˅
Parktel Fortress
(Youth Hostel) ඣᆀቔໜ Indoor Feb.) ʟ"ӗ500
e5

Swimming
Lin

Pool
ay

Olympic Hall
bw

Olympic Park Korea Nat’l Univ.


Su

࿿൜ዴલဴ
Gymnastics of Physical
Hall Education
ng
eo

s Fencing
to
on Peace Gate Gymnasium
ch
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Pa

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New Olympiana Weightlifting


m

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Oly

Sculpture Park Tennis Olympic


Wir Courts Plaza
yes
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Bangi-dong

Ogeum-dong
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Bangi-dong Baekje Tombs


Ba

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mn
o

Korea travel guide Amsa-dong Prehistoric Settlement Site | 50 | 51 |


Other Areas Korea Military Academy visitors an educational experience about
ၱૹ໒૝ጣ૲ the many wars in which Korea has been
involved. Large amounts of documents
and war memorabilia are displayed as
examples of Koreaœ s 5,000-year history of
resistance to numerous invasions while
Sinchon ཬᆧ Independence Park ౭඄૙ၛ maintaining its national entity.

The Independence Park comprises


Dongnimmun, or Independence Gate, and
Seodaemun Prison History Hall.
Dongnimmun Gate was built in 1898 as
a symbol of the nation’s commitment to
independence from foreign (Chinese) Located in northeastern Seoul, KMA is a
interference. college established especially to produce
First built in 1908 as Gyeongseong a select group of officers trained in literary
Prison, the Seodaemun Prison History and military arts. Founded in 1946, the
Hall was the place where many patriots KMA has opened its beautiful campus to
ȭ 02-709-3139; http://warmemo.co.kr ʲ:
were tortured and executed during the tourists. A tour includes the Army
Samgakji Station, Line 4 ʦ: 09:30ō18:00
Sinchon refers to an area where three Japanese colonial rule. In the two-story Museum, KMA Tower, Field Weapons
(09:30ō17:00, Nov.ōFeb.) ʟ: ӗ3,000
major universities are located: Yonsei, hall are displayed a chronicle of the Exhibition Site, etc. Every Saturday, a
ʡ: Mon.
Ewha Womans, and Sogang. Here are Korean people’s resistance against cadetsŖparade held on Hwarang Drill
numerous coffee lounges, restaurants, Japan, wall coffins, a solitary cell, torture Field is added to the course. Group tours
room showing various cruel scenes, and up to 40 require a one-day prior Bukhansan Mountains
snack bars, hairdresser’s, shops for
many other informative exhibitions. Old ๜ጤ໕
clothes, accessories and various fashion reservation.
items, theaters for live performances, jazz jail cells and the dreadful execution house Easily accessible from anywhere around
ȭ 02-976-6454/5, FAX 02-976-6453 ʲ:
cafe, rock cafe and nightclubs as well as are open to tour. the Seoul metropolitan area, Bukhansan
Hwarangdae Station, Line 6 ʦ: Individual
department stores and shopping centers, ȭ 02-363-9750/1 ʲ: Dongmimmun Tour (11:00, 13:00, 15:00 / Sat. and Sun.), Mountains are some of the most popular
all catering to university students or to Station, Line 3 ʦ: 09:30˅17:00 Group Tour (09:30 ō15:00 / Tues. through in Korea. Several imposing granite peaks,
people who like to think of themselves as ʟ"ӗ1,100 Sun.) ʡ: Mon. ʟ"ӗ2,000 dozens of beautiful valleys, cultural relics
young. such as Bukhansanseong Fortress, and
One well-known street in Sinchon is literally hundreds of temples and
Central City ༇ኣഥཪ኱ War Memorial ႽႰଡ௟૝ hermitages. Click on www.npa.or.kr/pukan.
Ahyeon-dong Wedding Dress Street
which stretches between Ewha Womans Opened on June 10, 1994, it offers
University Station and Ahyeon Station,
Subway Line 2. It is lined on both sides Han River ጤ઎
with more than 100 shops specializing in
wedding dresses. A symbol of Seoul, the Han River runs through Seoul east to west, with an
average depth of 2.5 m and width of 175 m. The river is crossed by 22 bridges and
ʲ: Sinchon Station, Line 2
there are excursion boats plying west to east between Yeouido and Jamsil via
Ttukseom. At 10 different points along the 41.5 km-long riverbank are Hangang
Hong Ik University Riverside Parks equipped with sports facilities such as soccer and baseball fields,
Vicinity ፜ౄ႕૷ valleyball and basketball courts, and swimming pools. Facilities for water skiing,
Conveniently connected to the Seoul yachting, boating, and fishing are also available.
It commonly refers to the area in front of
Hong Ik University which is famous as Express Bus Terminal, Central City is a Pleasure boat cruise
Korea’s major art college. This area is one multi-purpose leisure complex. It The river cruise is a must for visitors to Seoul. There are five cruise courses,
of the favorite hangouts for the trendy encompasses a wide range of the latest most lasting an hour. Fare is ӗ7,000. Cruise Service Information (ȭ 02-785-
youth in Seoul. The rock, techno, hip hop, facilities including the JW Marriott Hotel; 0392/3: Semo Pleasure Boat Co. Ltd.)
jazz manias crowd up in the splendid Millennium Hall, an international
Ү One way ҮRound Trip
restaurants, cafes and bars and uplift the convention center; Marquis Thermal Spa
Yeouido Ɗ Jamsil Yeouido Ɗ Yanghwa Ɗ Yeouido
atmosphere. Unlike other university & Fitness Club, Korea’s largest fitness club;
Jamsil Ɗ Yeouido Jamsil Ɗ Hannam BridgeƊ Jamsil
surroundings, there are not many clothes Central 6 multiplex theaters; Central
YanghwaƊ YeouidoƊ Yanghwa
or accessary shops around Hong Ik Automall exhibiting and selling domestic
University but it is a place where you can and foreign automobiles; Marquis Plaza,
look around comfortably. a huge shopping mall; Cyber Theme
Park; a bookstore and a variety of
ʲ: Hongik Univ. Station, Line 2 restaurants and snack bars.
ʲ: Express Bus Terminal, Line 3 or 7

Korea travel guide | 52 | 53 |


Seoul and Incheon Subway

ňSeoul Metropolitan
Rapid Transit
Infornet :
Ȭ 02-735-5678

*More informations at www.seoulsubway.co.kr


Seoul City Tour

A most convenient and comfortable way to Service Hours: open throughout the year 09:00–22:00 (Bus runs every 30 minutes)
explore the city. The major sights and Fares: 5,000 won to 8,000 won
Tours: Gwanghwamun (Dong Wha DFS) ؋ Deoksugung Palace؋ Hotel Lotte؋ Namdaemun
attractions of Seoul are presented on a single
Market؋ Seoul Station؋ USO؋ War Memorial؋ Yongsan Base Camp؋ Itaewon؋ Crown
tour. The 35-seat luxury buses ensure a Hotel؋ Myeong-dong؋ Namsan Hanok Village؋ Sofitel Ambassador Hotel؋ National Theater
comfortable ride. On-board announcements ؋ Seoul Tower؋ Hyatt Hotel؋ Tower Hotel؋ Shilla Hotel؋ Dongdaemun Market؋
are made in English, Japanese and Chinese. Daehangno؋ Changgyeonggung Palace؋ Changdeokgung Palace؋ Insa-dong؋ (Cheong Wa
Tours go every 25 minutes and you can Dae؋ National Folk Museum؋ Gyeongbokgung Palace؋Police Museum: only for day tour)؋
Sejong Center؋ Gwanghwamun Gate
board at any of the stops around the circle
Information: Honeymoon Travel Tel: 02-777-6090 Fax: 02-777-7787
route. A day or night ticket, or palace ticket, lets you hop on and off at will.
www.seoulcitytour.com
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★ indicates a feature described in another section of this travel guide. | 56 | 57 |
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★ indicates a feature described in another section of this travel guide. | 58 | 59 |


Dongnimmun

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Line 4 Line 5 Hoehyeon
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★ Seoul Grand Park -`Q\[  UQV Ȭ 
Ȭ 
-`Q\[  UQV
★ National Museum of Dongjak
Contemporary Art •National Cemetery
Ȭ ! -`Q\  UQV Ȭ 
-`Q\[UQV

★ indicates a feature described in another section of this travel guide. | 62 | 63 |


Hwarangdae

Line 6 ★ Taereung Royal Tomb (Exit 4)


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★ Korea Military Academy (Exit 6)
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)JW]\ NWZMQOVMZ[NZWU ★ Dongdaemun Market (Exit 2)
KW]V\ZQM[_PWZMVLMZML[MZ^QKM\W
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Ȭ  NZWU2IXIVM[MKWTWVQITZ]TM KITT[\WUQVL\PMTM[[WV[WN
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?IZQVXIZ\QK]TIZȬ !
•Muslim Mosque (Exit 3)

★ indicates a feature described in another section of this travel guide. | 64 | 65 |


Line 7 Line 8
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★ indicates a feature described in another section of this travel guide. | 66 | 67 |


Panmunjeom ንබ႙
Soyosan ໴ဠຮ
A12 Baesangmyeon
The 3rd Tunnel Dongducheon Traditional Chuncheon
Imjingak Liquor Museum Lake Resort
Bridge of Freedom ၭჰੜ
Pocheon Hyeongdeungsa
Munsan ጢ౾ຫ Chuncheon ᆕᅩ in traditional fashion. There are also
Paju Hoecheon
Ganghwado Is.
੧ጷ౅ A2 Odusan A13
Gapyeong
Bears Town Namiseom Resort
240 traditional houses and
Dolmen
Site
Unification
Ganghwa Observatory Uijeongbu
A9
ஆၦ໘
a small amphitheater for folk music
࿼౞ຮቛၩ႖൫ఝ
Bomunsa Bukhansan Cheonmasan Cheongpyeong Resort and dance performance.(See p.111)
พබຫ Nat’l Park ᅯዀ၉ဴხ
Jeondeungsa Goyang Bukhansanseong Fortress ʪ: East of Suwon ʲ: Suwon Station,
ีዽຮໜ
A11
(႖౾ຫ) Seoul Daemyung
A3
Gimpo
Donggureung
KNR Line, and transfer to a city bus or shuttle
Manisan Guri Royal Tombs ౏ૐൔ
ൠఁຮ
Gimpo Airport
଀ዅ૑႞લጃ Yongmunsa bus for the Korean Folk Village. ʦ: 09:00ō
Jeondeungsa Temple
Yeongjongdo Is. GYEONGIN EXPRESSWAY Hanam 18:30 (09:00ō17:20, Dec.ōFeb.)
Incheon Int’l Airport Bucheon
(ၨᅩ૑႞લጃ) Namhansanseong Yangpyeong years ago. The unique style of its ʟ: ˴8,500
Gwangmyeong Fortress A10
INCHEON
(ၨᅩ) A1 Siheung Seongnam
Gwacheon
Gwangju ઼჎
architecture and iron bell are rarely
Songdo Resort
(໽౅၉ဴხ)
Anyang Seoul Land
A7 Seoul Grand Park Haegang
seen elsewhere. In addition to
Gunpo Uiwang
Hwaseong Everland
Ceramics Museum
Yeongneung exploring these historical sites,
A6 A8 Icheon
Palmido Beach Ansan Fortress
Hot Spring
Silleuksa visitors can find local products such
GYEO
A4 Giheung Icheon Ceramics
Yeoju ࿥჎

AY
Village
as ginseng and sedge mats.
SEOHAEA

Suwon Yongin Icheon ၦᅩ P RE S S W


(༘ဴ) Yangi Pine YEONGDO NG EX
NGBU

Korean ʪ: Northwest of Incheon ʲ: 1 hr. and

JUNGBU EXPR
Folk Village
Osan
(ዽ૑ූ໵ᆀ) A5 Jisan GYEONGGI-DO 30 min. from Sinchon Bus Terminal in Seoul
N EXP

EXP

Janghowon ʟ: ˴1,800 (for Jeondeungsa Temple)


RES
RESS

Caribbean Bay
Everland ငลഖಜ A6 (ȭ 031-320-
Map A A subway train also connects Seoul
SWA

ESSW Y
Anseong
5000; www.everland.com) is three
WAY

Pyeongtaek
Y

Geumwang with Suwon ༿ၛ A4 , one of the


A amusement parks in one. Its Festival
principal cities of Gyeonggi-do.
World has thrilling rides, a jungle
Included in UNESCO’s list of
safari and zoo, and seasonal flower
Seoul Vicinity Korea Map P. 6
World Cultural Heritage in 1997,
Hwaseong Fortress ፞༃ A4 (ȭ
031-228-2766) embraces the
festivals. And, Caribbean Bay is a
huge water park with wave pools and
water slides. At Speedway you can
Incheon ႏᆐ, Gyeonggi-do ેଡ౬ downtown area of Suwon. It is a
enjoy real car racing. Everland is also
well-preserved architecture of the
the site of the Ho-Am Art Museum,
Joseon Dynasty built of stone and
any attractions lie just a Dolmen in Ganghwado displaying one of the finest private

M
oven-baked bricks over two years
short distance outside collections of Korean art in the
from 1794 during the reign of King
Seoul, easily accessible by world.
Jeongjo.
bus, train or car. ʪ: East of the Korean Folk Village
Every Saturday afternoon free city ʲ: No. 1500 or 1500-1 from Exit 13 of
tour buses run from the Jangan Park
One hour away from Seoul, Incheon Seoul Nat’l Univ. of Education Station on
to major attractions around the city. Subway Line 2 or 3 ʦ: 09:30ō20:00
ႏᆐ A1 , the main gateway of
More information at ȭ 031-228-
Korea, has a newly opened (Open until 23:00 during festivals)
2766, FAX 031-228-3761. ʟ: ˴15,000 for Festival World,
international airport and an Ganghwado Island ઎፞౬ A2 lies to
international seaport. On a small the northwest of downtown ʪ: Central Suwon ʲ: No. 24 or 24-1 ˴13,000ō˴45,000 depending on the
knoll overlooking the harbor is Jayu Incheon. On this island is a huge (10 min.) from Suwon Station, KNR Line seasons for Caribbean Bay
Park (or Freedom Park), with its dolmen, attesting to one of the burial
statue honoring General MacArthur’s methods of the Bronze Age. The Korean Folk Village ጤ૸෽༜ᆧ
famous Incheon Landing in 1950. There is also Chamseongdan Altar on A5 (ȭ 031-286-2111;
Seafood enthusiasts will enjoy the the summit of Mt. Manisan A3 , www.koreanfolk.co.kr) is a living
Wolmido area of Incheon. The where Korean ancestors paid tribute museum that recreates the lifestyle
Songdo Resort lies to the southwest. to heaven. The coastline of the island of several centuries ago. There are
is dotted with numerous fort sites potters, weavers, blacksmiths, and
dating back to the Joseon Dynasty. other artisans who practice their trades
Seoul Racecourse
Korean Folk Village
Jeondeungsa Temple Ⴝಥ໒ A3 The Seoul Racecourse ໶ၒેඇႦ A7
(ȭ 032-937-0125) is another (ȭ 02-509-1273), with facilities for
historic site on the island. The up to 1,400 horses, is in operation
temple dates back to the ancient every Saturday and Sunday. Wager
Wolmido Three Kingdoms period about 1,600 tickets can be purchased starting

Korea travel guide | 68 | 69 |


from 100 won up to 100,000 won.
There are three kinds of bets: single
entry, double entry, and multiple
race. Whenever the course is in
operation, various information desks
are open to assist punters.
ʪ: Just north of Seoul Grand Park
ʲ: Exit 1 or 2 of Seoul Race Course
Park, Line 4 ʦ: 09:30ō18:00 ʟ: ӗ800 Namhansanseong Fortress

only museum devoted entirely to the


Seoul Land ໶ၒഖಜ A7 (ȭ 02-504- ceramic arts, and the Icheon Unification Observatory, and Imjin- infiltrate the South. It crosses 435 m
0011) is an all-weather theme park Ceramics Festival is held every gak. These sites bring home the under the North-South
which can be reached in 30 minutes September. lessons of war and the stark reality of Demarcation Line and its total
from downtown Seoul. Here 40 a divided country. length is 1,635 meters.
kinds of amusement facilities await In the National Arboretum ૸඄༿ෂၛ Panmunjeom ኼෝჀ A12 in the At Dora Observatory, through a
visitors. Colorful events and seasonal A9 (ȭ 031-540-1114, FAX 031- Demilitarized Zone is where the telescope you can watch North
fairs create fun and spectacles. The 540-1199) at Gwangneung, some armistice agreement was signed on Koreans go about their daily life.
outdoor pool in summer and 25 miles to the north, a Joseon king July 27, 1953, and where peace Group tours for foreigners can be
sledding in winter are seasonal and his queen are interred. The dialogues are held. UN forces are arranged through travel agencies.
highlights. National Arboretum is an attractive stationed at this tension-filled area to (For a travel agency, See p.176)
Seoul Grand Park ໶ၒౄ૙ၛ A7 woodland area sprinkled with prevent the outbreak of another war.
(ȭ 02-500-7114) is just next to temples and hermitages. A The 3rd Tunnel, about 73 m Odusan Unification Observatory ဣ
Seoul Land. It boasts an excellent captivating garden surrounds the underground, and 2 m wide and ಅ໕ ኂ႐Ⴝඒౄ A13 (ȭ 031-945-3171)
zoo, a botanical garden of 14,000 Arboretum’s forestry museum. high, was dug by North Koreans to is where you can view North Korea
plants and 1,000 different species, ʲ: 1 hr. from Cheongnyangni Station in with high-powered telescopes. On
and a trained seal show. Seoul ʦ: 09:00ō17:00 (reservation display is a collection of items from
The National Museum of required) ʟ: ӗ700 ʡ : Sat., Sun. and North Korea including living
Contemporary Art (ȭ 02-2188- holiday necessities and clothes. There is an
6067; www.moca.go.kr) is another audiovisual room, and North Korean
Namhansanseong Fortress ஭ጤ໕༃
draw to the Seoul Grand Park products for sale.
(http://namhansansung.or.kr) A10 ,
complex. ʲ: No. 912 from Seoul Station to one
located atop a mountain near the
ʪ: Just south of Seoul ʲ: Get off stop before Geumchon Terminus (1 hr. 10
satellite city of Seongnam, served to min); 7 min. to Tanhyeon Bus Terminal ; a
at Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4
ʦ: 09:00ō19:00 (09:00ō18:00, Oct.ōMar.)
protect the southern region. Panmunjeom
shuttle bus (every hour, 7 min.)
for Seoul Grand Park ʟ: ӗ1,500
for Seoul Grand Park, ӗ700 for National Bukhansanseong Fortress ๜ጤ໕༃ Food and Shopping in Seoul Vicinity
Museum of Contemporary Art, ӗ7,000 A11 , encircling the impressive peaks
Shopping Ganghwado, where hwamunseok, ginseng,
for Seoul Land of Bukhansan Mountains, was once Ganghwado Island is renowned for its orchids and many other items are sold.
the stronghold that formed ancient hwamunseok (flower-patterned mats),
Icheon Ceramics Village ႍᆐ౬ႛଡඇ Seoul’ s northern boundary. which are woven with wanggol Food
ၼ A8 , one of the largest ceramics (sedge) dyed in seven colors: red, blue, Suwon is famous for galbi (marinated
villages in Korea, lies in Icheon Paju with its untainted natural aquamarine, scarlet, purple, black and beef ribs). Many galbi restaurants can be
where some 250 kilns are clustered. beauty contains many Korean war- white. Hwamunseok is designed and easily found in the market area near
Not only you can purchase ceramics related tourist sites such as woven in colorful floral patterns such as Paldalmun Gate.
phoenix, orchids, pine trees and lotus
but make them yourself. Haegang Panmunjeom, the 3rd Tunnel and
blossoms. The cool texture of a At the raw fish and seafood restaurants
Ceramics Museum is here, Korea’s Dora Observatory, Odusan hwamunseok mat provides a welcome along the Incheon wharf, visitors can try
Seoul Land
relief during hot summer days. various dishes such as jeonbokjuk
(abalone porridge), fried fish, sliced raw
Ganghwado is also famous for its high- fish and maeuntang (hot and spicy fish
quality ginseng. Market days are on the soup). Fresh seafood can also be enjoyed
days of the month ending in two or at many restaurants on Wolmido
seven at the downtown area of seafront.

| 70 | 71|
Goseong Unification B8
Eulji Observatory Observatory Songjiho Beach
The 4th
(ધໜቛၩ႖൫ఝ) Ganseong Map B
Tunnel
Alps
Seorak-dong is near the entrance to
Punch Bowl
B9 Cheongganjeong (ᅯ੝ႜ)
the national park. Inns, hotels,
Sorak Waterpia
Sokcho(໵ᅾ) B5 campsites, stores, parking lots, and
Sinheungsa B7
Seoraksan Uisangdae (ၡືఝ)
other public facilities are available. A
Yanggu
Nat’l Park
Inje ໕ྥຮ૑൝લဴ B6
Naksansa (୿ຮຫ) 1,100 meter cable car connects the
Naksan Beach B4
Yangyang (࿅࿅)
park entrance with Gwongeumseong,
Osaek Mineral Hajodae Beach an old mountaintop fortress of the
Spring (࿼຺྾༘)
Silla Kingdom.
Ojukheon Other points of interest in the
Odaesan Nat’l Park Jumunjin outer area are Biseondae Rock Flat,
࿼ఝຮ૑൝લဴ Ulleungdo Is. (ါൔ౅)
B10 Sogeumgang Valley B14
mother, but also a talented painter, named after the legend of an angel
Sangwonsa
(ືဴຫ)
(໴૵੧)
Ojukheon Gyeongpodae Ulleung Dokdo calligrapher and poet; as such, she is ascending to heaven from the rock
Taeseungsa (ె౅)
Woljeongsa
(࿼჏጑) (ઠዅఝ) B3
Gangneung
the most widely acclaimed woman of flat, and Osaek Mineral Springs,
B2
(ဵႜຫ) D(੧ൔ) B1
ON the Joseon Dynasty. which are thought to bring relief
Korea Condo
Phoenix Park GH
Gyeongpodae ેዬౄ B3 ,6 km from digestive ailments.
AY
Yong Pyong AE Jeoungdongjin north of downtown Gangneung, is a Visitors to the inner area entering
B12
SW fine sandy beach where you can enjoy from the west via the town of Inje
E
ES
XP
P R Mangsang Beach
EX swimming and sea fishing. Many of can first visit Baekdamsa Temple,
RE

NG
DO
SS

NG Donghae (౏ጄ) the restaurants serve fresh fish, the other gateway to Seoraksan.
YEO
Hyundai Sungwoo
WAY

Guryongsa
Mureung Valley
(ඳൔઢન)
Samcheok Haegeumgang
(ຳᅨጄ૵੧)
prepared according to the diner’s ʪ: Just west of Sokcho ʲ: 30 min. from
Wonju
B11 Chiaksan Jeongseon
Samcheok wishes. Sokcho to Seorak- dong ʟ: ӗ2,800
Pyeongchang (ຳᅨ)
Nat’l Park (ႜ໓) Chodang Cave ʲ: 30 min. from Gangneung
ᆳྥຮ૑൝લဴ (ᅾఙ౏૔)

GANGWON-DO Hwanseongul Cave


ጹ໓૔ B13 There are several towns and excellent
Sindong
Jecheon Sabuk
Dogye beaches north of Gangneung.
(႞ᅩ) Yeongwol (࿱ဵ) Taebaek Naksan Beach ஦໕ጫ༿၈Ⴆ B4 and
ሲ෱
Gossi Cave
Wondeok the fishing port of Sokcho are
Sangdong
Chungjuho
(ધྜ౏૔) especially noteworthy. Naksan Beach
Deokgu
Lake (ᆚ჎ጭ) Dodamsambong Buseoksaิ໐ຫ Hot Springs is famous for its clear water and
Danyang (నૐ࿾ᅩ)
Danyang
Gosu Cave
(ધ༘౏૔)
Sobaeksan
Uljin (ါჰ)
nearby Naksansa Temple.
Eight Sights
Nat’l Park Buryeong Valley
໴෱ຮ૑൝લဴ (ุ࿱ઢન)
(ఎ࿅ኖઠ)
Huibangsa
Bonghwa (ฦጷ)
Sokcho ༜ᆥ B5 can be reached
Punggi (ዟૺ) Buryeongsa Mangyang Beach from Seoul in less than an hour by
Yeongju (࿱჎)
air and is the gateway to Seoraksan
National Park, a magnificent area

Eastern Area Korea Map P. 7


with towering granite peaks, lush
green valleys, dense forests, Buddhist
temples and hermitages, waterfalls
Seoraksan National Park

Sorak Waterpia ໼࿌ၙቤጚ࿋ B7


Gangwon-do ઎ၛ౬, Ulleungdo ၒൻ౬ and clear streams. (ȭ 033-635-7711), located near
Seoraksan National Park, is an all-
eoul is connected to the the forested mountains of the region. From Seoul to Sokcho Ŏ season water theme park. It is

S scenic east coast by the


Yeongdong Expressway,
which ends at Gangneung.
The trip takes about four hours.
There are several hotels along the
The mountains also provide
recreational opportunities with ski
resorts.

In the city of Gangneung ઎ൻ B1 is


50 min. by air / 4 hrs. and 50 min. by bus

Mt. Seoraksan National Park ໼࿌໕


B6 (ȭ 033-636-7700;
http://npa.or.kr), considered one of
famous for its outdoor hot spring
(49Ű) commanding a splendid view
of Ulsan Rocks and the East Sea, as
well as a wave pool, water slides, etc.
ʲ: flights from Seoul to Sokcho (50 min.);
coast and the combination of the historical building Ojukheon ဣ Korea’s most beautiful mountains, is take a taxi (40 min.) ʦ: 08:00 ō21:00
mountains and beaches makes the ჶጸ B2 where Yi Yulgok, the great divided into Inner and Outer Seorak ʟ: ӗ28,000
eastern area an ideal vacation spot. Confucian scholar of the Joseon by a long winding ridge, known as
Historical sites and colorful everyday Dynasty, lived with his mother Shin Hangyeryeong Pass. Goseong Unification Observatory
scenes are to be seen in the small Saimdang. Shin Saimdang was not The less rugged outer area stretches ૎༃ኂ႐Ⴝඒౄ B8 is located at the
coastal towns as well as deep within only an ideal daughter, wife, and east to Seorak-dong resort village. northernmost point on the east

Korea travel guide | 72 | 73 |


coast. Here visitors can enjoy an Yanggu. ʲ: from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to
excellent view over the beautiful ʲ: from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Samcheok (4 hrs. 50 min.); to Daei-ri
mountains, rivers and coast of North Yanggu (3 hrs.); to Haean-myeon (50 (45 min.). It is at least a 30-min. climb to the
Korea. min.); 5 min. to NKH ʦ: 09:00 - 17:00 cave entrance. ʦ: 08:00-17:00 (09:00-
ʡ: Tuesday ʟ: ӗ1,000 per site 16:00) ʟ: ӗ4,300
The Iron Triangle Zone ᆑႈ໚ઃᄕౄ
Woljeongsa Temple
(ȭ 033-455-3129) is the triangular
region connecting Cheorwon and
Gimhwa with Pyeonggang at its apex
Guryongsa Temple
in North Korea, a major frontline
battlefield during the Korean War. It convenient facilities and excellent
is worth visiting the ruins of the old accommodations, the resort offers
(North) Korean Workers Party superb skiing, as well as other all- Ulleungdo lsland

headquarters “House of Labor season amenities.


Party,” the 2nd Tunnel, the Iron Ulleungdo ၒൻ౬ B14 (ȭ 054-791-
Triangle Observatory and the rusted Hwanseongul Cave ፠໺ૻ B13 (ȭ 2191), located at the eastern end of
train hulk at Woljeong-ri Station. 033-541-9266), surrounded by Korea, is one of two major volcanic
Nearby is the Saemtong Migratory Mt.Odaesan National Park ဣౄ໕ scenic mountains, is one of the islands in Korea, along with Jejudo.
Bird Sanctuary. B10 (ȭ 033-332-6494), just south of largest limestone caverns in Asia, 6.2 It covers 73.15 sq km and is
ʲ: from Uijeongbu Station to Sintan-ri Seoraksan, is the site of Woljeongsa, km long ӧ only 1.2 km open to the surrounded by several islets such as
(1 hr. 10 min.); call Paengma Tour (ȭ 02- one of the oldest temples of the Silla public, yet that section alone will Dokdo, Jukdo, and Gwaneumdo. At
2236-0110) for this tour ʦ: 09:00 - 14:30 Kingdom, and Sangwonsa, famous create unforgettable memories. It has the center of the island stands
ʡ: Tuesday and national holidays for its bronze bell cast in A.D. 725. 10 pools, 6 waterfalls, a huge main Seonginbong Peak.
ʟ: ӗ1,500 ʲ: 1 hr. from Gangneung ʟ: ӗ2,800 chamber, and dozens of amazing Boat tours around Ulleungdo are
sights, just loaded with fantastic available, for tourists to appreciate all
Haean-myeon, Yanggu, is a low-lying Mt. Chiaksan National Park ᇚ࿌໕ formations including stalactite the charms of the island: steep cliffs,
area surrounded by mountains where B11 , stretching north to south, is cascades, the “Great Wall of China,” strange rock formations, and
many fierce battles took place during located about 12 km northeast of and the “Royal Throne”. vegetation indigenous to the island.
the Korean War. It was dubbed the Wonju. Chiaksan’s valley with its An underwater tour boat also runs
Punch Bowl by foreign war unusually-shaped rocks and cliffs is between Ulleungdo’s Dodong and
correspondents. Punch Bowl truly magnificent. There are several Jeodong Ports. Koreans know the
Battleground ዒᇚ้ B9 in Yanggu, Buddhist temples inside the park, island for its dried squid and
one of the most famous battlefields including Guryongsa which was pumpkin taffy.
during the Korean War, includes built during the Silla Kingdom. ʲ: 3 hrs. from Pohang (ȭ 02-514-
North Korea Hall (ȭ 033-481- 6766, Dae-a Travel Agency); 3 hrs. from
9021), the 4th Tunnel and Eulji Yong Pyong (Dragon Valley) Resort Hwanseongul Cave Mukho
Observatory. There are just three ၎ዧൿვኣ (www.yongpyong.co.kr)
buses a day, so you can either arrange B12 lies in the Daegwallyeong Pass Food and Shopping in the Eastern Area
private transportation or hire a taxi in south of Odaesan. Equipped with
Food such as squid, abalone, sea cucumber,
Seoraksan is famous for dishes made etc. at moderate prices.
with wild plants, such as sanchae Gamjajeon (potato pancakes),
bibimbap (cooked rice with assorted and dotorimuk (acorn jelly) are two other
mountain greens), a very popular menu famous dishes of the eastern area.
item at the restaurants around
Seoraksan National Park. Shopping
Chuncheon is noted for two dishes: Mushrooms and honey from Seoraksan
makguksu, a noodle made of buckwheat, and dried seafood from the east coast
and dakgalbi (chicken with red hot are famous local products that are highly
pepper sauce). recommended. In addition, maps of
As there are many ports including Seoraksanœ s hiking trails are a nice
Sokcho along the East Coast, visitors can souvenir.
enjoy freshly cooked or raw seafood
Yong Pyong Resort

Korea travel guide | 74 | 75 |


Giheung

SEO
Icheon
Suwon Yongin (ၦᅩ) Yeoju

Map C (༘ဴ)

HA EAH EX
Korean

JUNGBU
Folk Village ዽ૑ූ໵ᆀ
Osan (࿼ຮ) Jecheon

GYEO
Janghowon Cheongpung Properties
Complex

EXPRESSWAY
PRESS

NGB
Anseong Maepo
Chungjuho Lake

U
Pyeongtaek Geumwang ᆚ჎ጭ
C8 Danyang

EXP
Tangeumdae
WAY (ዀሳ)
C9
Chungju

RES WAY
Gosu Caveધ༘౏૔
Dangjin Eumseong

S
Jincheon C10
Hyeonchungsa CHUNGCHEONGBUK-DO
Shrineጢᆚຫ Woraksan Nat’l Park
Hapdeok Independence Blue Valley ဵྥຮ૑൝લဴ
Onyang Hall of Korea Jeungpyeong
Hot Springs Suanbo
Seosan Cheonan ె൝ૺஸશ Geosan ༘ྦพ࿾ᅩ
Asan ᅩྦ
Dogo Hot Springs C7
Sapgyo C6
Yonpung Martyrs
Deoksan Yesan Cheongju Early Hwayanggugok Shrine
Hot Springs Printing Museum Sangdangsanseong
Fortress Valley
Sudeoksa Mungyeong
༘నຫ Jochiwon
Hongseong CHEONGJU
ᅯ჎
Magoksa Songnisan Nat’l Park
ൠનຫ C3 ໵൘ຮ૑൝લဴ
Gongju Gongsanseong Boeun C11
Munui Cultural Beopjusa
CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO Fortress Properfies Complex ฅ჎ຫ Hanbit Tower at the Expo Science Park
Tomb of King
Muryeong ඳകထൔ Yuseong Sangju
Daecheongho
Hot Springs Lake ఝᅯጭ
Daecheon Gyeryongsan
Beach Boryeong GY
Nat’l Park C2
ઢലຮ૑൝લဴ
C1 EO
N GBU EXPRE
Vision of Korea Pavilion, as well as Gongju ૙ჵ C3 , northwest of
Goransa DAEJEON S
Buyeo Donghaksa
the Hanbit (great light) Tower, Daejeon, was the capital of the

SW
౏ዼຫ ఝ႖
ิ࿥ AY
Geumgang Resort
Muchangpo C4 Nonsan constructed to commemorate ancient Baekje Kingdom from A.D.
Beach
Ganggyeong
Gwanchoksa
C5 Yeongdong Daejeon EXPO. Visitors can get an 475 to 539, before the kingdom
Yeonmu Gumi
Seocheon શᅿຫ Geumsan
૵ຮ
Gimcheon
଀ᅩ
ૐු overview of state-of-the-art moved its capital south to Buyeo.
technology in a single visit to the park. The kingdom fell when the Silla
ʲ: 30 min. from downtown Daejeon unified the Korean peninsula in the
ʦ: 09:30ō18:00 (open untill 22:00 during 7th century. Many remains of
Central Area Korea Map P. 6
festivals) ʟ: ӗ3,000 ҞAdmission fees for
each pavilion are not included.
Baekje’s former glory are well
preserved in these two old capitals.
Gongju’s
Daejeon ౄႽ, Chungcheongnam-do ᇁᆖ஭౬, Chungcheongbuk-do ᇁᆖ๜౬ Several major science facilities, main
such as the Daedeok Science attraction
he central area of Korea Research Complex, plus the is the

T encompasses Chungcheong-
do. It is an area of broad
stretches of paddy fields
interspersed with rugged mountains.
From Seoul to Daejeon Ŏ
1 hr. and 30 min. by Saemaeulho train;1 hr.
and 50 min. by bus.

Expo Science Park စཡዬ૛ጣ૙ၛ (ȭ


cultural relics of Buyeo and
Gongju (capitals of the Baekje
Kingdom), and Mt. Gyeryongsan
National Park renowned for its
magnificent natural beauty, are
Gongju
National
Museum,
which
exhibits treasures
Crown Ornament from
King Muryeong’s Tomb

Daejeon ౄႽ C1 is one of the area’s 042-866-5114/5, FAX 042-866-5159) adjacent to the park. from the 6th
principal cities, about two hours on an outdoor site of 627,000 sq. century tomb of
south of Seoul by car. It is a major meters (156.75 acres) is in Mt. Gyeryongsan National Park ૉ King Muryeong.
junction for the train lines and northwestern Daejeon. This is where ൙໕ C2 (ȭ 042-825-3003) is just Although most Baekje
expressways connecting Seoulō Daejeon EXPO 1993 was held. The west of Daejeon. The hiking trails tombs were
Busan, and SeoulōGwangjuō area has since been renovated and lead to two temples: Gapsa, which is pillaged over the centuries, King
Mokpo, and is rapidly becoming one turned into a public science park. famous for the changing colors of Muryeong’s Tomb (ȭ 041-856-
of Korea’s major centers for science. Expo Science Park features the maple trees in autumn, and 0331) was left undisturbed until its
Yuseong Hot Springs Resort is Starquest Pavilion, Technopia Donghaksa, located on the eastern excavation in 1971.
located just northwest of the city. Pavilion, Earthscape Pavilion and slope of the mountain. ʲ: 1 hr. from Daejeon; 2 hrs. and 30
ʲ: 50 min. from Daejeon ʟ: ӗ2,600 min. from Seoul ʦ: 09:00ō18:00(09:00ō
Daejeon City Tour Bus 17:00 Nov.ōFeb.) ʟ: free
Convenient tours of the downtown for students. The departure point for all
area and places of interest around city. tours is in front of Dongbang Buyeo ๛ဌ C4 , about 20 miles
Buses run from 9:30 am to 5:00 Mart right across from further southwest, was the last capital
pm, 5,000 won for adults and 4,000 Daejeon Station. of Baekje (A.D. 539ō660). It also
won for students on all tours except Information at has the distinctive Buyeo National
the Out-of-town Tour, which costs ȭ 042-222-5451. Museum (ȭ 041-833-8562) which
8,000 won for adults, and 7,000 won Nammaetap in Gyeryongsan
incorporates the unique architecture

Korea travel guide | 76| 77 |


Terminal by taxi; 1 hr. from Chungju by bus
of the Baekje Kingdom. The museum defeated the Japanese navy in the late
ʦ: 09:00ō17:30 ʟ: ӗ3,000
houses numerous interesting artifacts. 16th century.
The bird’s-eye view of the
Baengmagang River from the top of Woraksan National Park ၜ࿌໕ C10 is
Busosanseong Fortress (ȭ 041- a beautiful mountain, 3,700 feet
835-3006) makes a splendid scene. (1,093 m) high, and some 24 miles
Nakhwaam Rock on one side of (40 km) southeast of Chungju.
Baengmagang River is the site of a Deokjusa Temple, built by
tragic history. Some 3,000 women of Dodamsambong in Danyang Deokju, the last princess of the Silla
the Baekje court leapt to their deaths Kingdom, adds to the mountain’s
here to avoid dishonor at the hands stunning view of Danyang natural beauty and creates an
of their enemies during the fall of the Palgyeong, the “Eight Scenic atmosphere of mystery.
Baekje Kingdom. The image of the Wonders” of the limestone region
women plummeting down in their Independence Hall of Korea
surrounding Danyang.
colorful dresses gave the place its ʲ: 2 hrs. and 10 min. from Seoul to
name, “Rock of Falling Flowers.” The Independence Hall of Korea ౭ Chungju
ʲ: 1 hr. and 30 min. from Daejeon; ඄ଡ௟૝ C7 (ȭ 041-560-0114,
3 hrs. and 20 min. from Seoul; 45 min. from FAX 041-555-2136) stands in the Gosu Cave ૎༿౶ૻ C9 (ȭ 043-
Gongju ʟ: ӗ1,400 (for Busosanseong vicinity of Cheonan, an hour and a 423-3071), located less than one
Fortress) half drive from Seoul. The hall mile from downtown Danyang, is a
commemorates those people who famous cave. It contains glistening Beopjusa Temple
struggled for freedom against foreign stalactites in all shapes and sizes, so
invasions throughout Korea’s long breathtaking it is called the Mt. Songnisan National Park ༜ൿ໕
history. The hall collects, studies and “Underground Palace.” C11 (ȭ 043-542-5267/8) is located
exhibits historic artifacts and materials ʲ: 10 min. from Danyang Express Bus to the northeast of Daejeon and is one
related to Korea’s resistance to of the most popular tourist spots in
aggression, the fight for the central part of the Korean
independence, the search for a peninsula.
national identity, and the record of The park’s Beopjusa Temple,
Gwanchoksa Temple
the nation’s development and established in A.D. 553, was home
Gwanchoksa Temple ૝ᆦ໒ C5 progress. to 30,000 Silla monks. See the huge
(ȭ 041-736-5700/2), to the ʲ: 1 hr. from Seoul to Cheonan; bronze Buddha.
southeast of Buyeo near Nonsan, has 20 min. from Cheonan to Independence Hall ʲ: 3 hrs. and 40 min. from Seoul;
one of Korea’s most interesting of Korea. ʦ: 09:30ō18:00 (09:30ō17:00, Woraksan National Park 2 hrs. from Cheongju or Daejeon ʟ: ӗ3,200
Buddhist statues, Eunjinmireuk. Nov.ōFeb.) ʟ: ӗ2,600 ʡ: Mon.
This is “the Buddha of the future”
and it is more than 1,000 years old. Food and Shopping in the Central Area
At 19 m (63 ft.), it is one of Korea’s
tallest Buddha statues. Its enormous Food historical books and reproductions of
The most famous dishes of this region Baekje relics.
earlobes, huge head, and unusual are an eel dish from the Baengmagang Geumsan, located an hour’s bus ride
crown, all out of proportion, attract River; wild edible greens from Mt. from Daejeon, is famous for its high-
immediate attention. Songnisan and Suanbo Hot Springs; quality white ginseng. Market days,
ʲ: 1 hr. from Daejeon to Nonsan bean curd dishes from Yuseong Hot during which only white ginseng is sold,
ʟ: ӗ1,500 Chungjuho Lake Springs; and hodogwaja (walnut-shaped are held on every day of the month
cakes) which originated in Cheonan ending in 2 or 7.
Asan ࿋໕ C6 is about an hour’s Chungjuho Lake ᇁჵፔ C8 , 80 and are sold at rest areas along the At Mt. Songnisan, items such as
major expressways nationwide. amethyst, dried mushrooms, dried wild
drive to the south of Seoul on the miles southeast of Seoul, offers a
greens and herbs and antique folkcrafts
Gyeongbu Expressway. Asan is wide variety of water sports in the Shopping may be purchased.
famous for the Onyang Hot Springs mountainous area of central Korea. In Buyeo and Gongju, souvenirs of In Gyeryongsan National Park there
and the Hyeonchungsa Shrine Pleasure ferries ply the 32-mile-long Baekje Kingdom accessories are is a ceramics village where you can
which commemorates the historic waterway between Chungju and available. In particular, the National buy a good ceramic piece.
feats of Admiral Yi Sun-sin, who Danyang. Passengers can also enjoy a Museums in Buyeo and Gongju sell

Korea travel guide | 78 | 79 |


Deokgu
Sobaeksan Hot Springs
Nat’l Park నૐ࿾ᅩ
Chungjuho ໴෱ຮ૑൝લဴ
Lake ᆚ჎ጭ Buseoksa (ิ໐ຫ)
Danyang Seongnyu Cave Uljin (ါჰ)
D10 ໜ൅૔ Mangyang
Gossi Cave (ધྜ౏૔) Beach
Huibangsa
Bonghwa Buryeong Valley
Woraksan Punggi (ฦጷ)
Nat’l Park ဵྥຮ૑൝લဴ ዟૺ Yeongju ࿱჎
ุ࿱ઢન Daegu and Vicinity
Dosan Wolsongjeong
D9 D7 Confucian School (ဵ໽ႜ)
Mireuksa aegu ౄ૷ D1 , the textiles lies northwest of Daegu and can be
Bongjeongsa

D
౅ຮ໏ဴ
ฦႜຫ
Yecheon D6
Baegam Hot Springs hub of Korea, is one of host reached by taking the Gimcheon exit
Yeongyang
Andongho cities of World Cup 2002. of the Gyeongbu Expressway. The
Mungyeong Pungsan Andong Lake ྦ౏ጭ In the central area is Oriental temple is famous for its blue-tiled
(බઠ Hamchang ྦ౏
D5 Taejin Beach
D8 medicinal herb market where as roofs, the 1,000-year-old support
Hahoe Village Cheongsong
(ዻፂൠၕ) (ᅯ໽)
many as 300 Oriental medical pillars of the main gate, and the
Sangju Gyeongsangbuk-do Yeongdeok clinics, herbal medicinal shops and 1,000 small statues of the Buddha.
Mukgye D11 (࿱న)
Uiseong Confucian School Juwangsan herb processing facilities are located. ʪ: Between Daejeon and Daegu ʲ: 25
(පઢ໏ဴ) Jangsa
Nat’l Park
჎ထຮ૑൝લဴ
Beach Woobang Towerland commands a min. from Gimcheon (2 hrs. and 30 min. from
nice view of the city. Seoul to Gimcheon by train) ʟ: ӗ2,000
Seosan Wolpo
Jikjisa Gunwi Bogyeongsa Beach Free city tours are available on
(ჯხຫ)
Palgongsan
Janggigot
Lighthouse Museum
Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Haeinsa Temple ጫႏ໒ D4 (ȭ
D3 Provincial Park
Gumi
(ኖલຮ౅൝લဴ) Oksan Confucian
(ၿૺળ౾ఝ෢මશ) Sundays at Duryu Park. Be ready to 055-931-1001) perhaps Korea’s best
Gimcheon
GY

(଀ᅩ) D2 School (࿽ຮ໏ဴ) D12


Pohang ዅጃ
pay your admission fee for tourist known temple, is in Gayasan
EO

Donghwasa ౏ጷຫ
Waegwan Angang Yangdong sites. Information on city tour at National Park (ȭ 055-932-7810).
NG

Folk Village Guryongpo (ૐലዅ) (ȭ 053-627-8900, FAX 053-627- Established in A.D. 802, it has a
BU

Yeongcheon
Gayasan E XPRESSWA
Nat’l Park Seongju Y 8985). number of art treasures in its more
ਜ਼྽ຮ૑൝લဴ D1
Gyeongju Mt. Palgongsan ኽ૙໕ D2 towers than 90 buildings (shrines,
DAEGU Gyeongsan
Haeinsa (ጄၨຫ) ఝૐ
(ઠ჎) Gyeongju over the city. hermitages and subtemples).
Nat’l Park
D4 (Map E) ઠ჎૑൝લဴ But what really distinguishes this
GUM A

Goryeong
Hwayang
From Seoul to Daegu Ŏ temple is its collection of more than
Cheongdo (ᅯ౅)
Gyeongsangnam-do 50 min. by air; 3 hrs. and 8 min. by train 80,000 wooden printing blocks
Changnyeong
which compose the Tripitaka
EXP

(ᅖ஻) Pyochungsa (Saemaeulho); 4 hrs. and 30 min. by bus


ዑᆚຫ
D13
Hapcheon (ጁᅩ) Miryang Koreana, the most complete
RESSWAY

ෘ࿅
Tongdosa
(ቛ౅ຫ) ULSAN collection of the Buddhist canon to
Bugok D15 (ါຮ)
Hot Springs
Samnangjin Naewonsa Jinha Beach be found in East Asia. Completed
(ิન࿾ᅩ)(ຳ೩ჰ) (ஏဴຫ) in 1251 as a plea to the Buddha in
Uiryeong Yangsan Jangan
Beomeosa an effort to ward off a Mongolian
Haman (ค࿌ຫ) D14 Wollae Beach
D17
Tomb of King Kim Suro
଀༘ചထൔ
Gijang invasion, the blocks remain in
Jinju (ჰ჎) Masan Gimhae BUSAN excellent condition and are the
Chokseongnu Changwon ᅖဴ ิຮ
(ᅿ໐ള)
basis of the most authoritative
D16 Jinhae (ჰጄ) Jikjisa Temple
(Map F) editions of Buddhist scripture.
Sacheon
Jikjisa Temple ᄖᄕ໒ D3 (ȭ 054- In 1995, Haeinsa Temple’s
Heungnam 436-6174) is also worth visiting. It Janggyeong Panjeon, the depositories
Goseong (ધໜ) Beach
Geoje
(੿႞)
Tongyeong Geojedo Is. (Map G)
(ቛ࿱) (੿႞౅)
Hallyeo Maritime
Nat’l Park
ዽ഍ጄື૑൝લဴ
Hansando Is.
(ዽຮ౅)
Haegeumgang Map D
(ጄ૵੧)

Southeastern Area Korea Map P. 7

Gyeongsangbuk-do ેໞ๜౬, Gyeongsangnam-do ેໞ஭౬


Busan ๛໕, Gyeongju ેჵ
In terms of tourist attractions, the southeastern part of Korea is the richest in Haeinsa Temple’s Janggyeong Panjeon

the country. The major cities of this area, the site of the splendid ancient Silla
Kingdom are Gyeongju, Busan and Daegu.
| 80 | 81|
ʦ: 06:00ō 20:00 (07:00ō 19:30, Nov.ō cities, such as Pohang and Ulsan.
Feb.) ʟ: ӗ1,000
Pohang ዬጪ D12 is the site of the
Mt. Juwangsan National Park ჵး large POSCO steel mill and the
໕ D11 (ȭ 054-873-0015), at the departure point for ferry boats to
southern end of the coastal highway, Ulleungdo Island.
is favored by those who want to get
away from popular ӧ and thus Ulsan ၒ໕ D13 is the home base for
crowded ӧ areas. The nearby coastal Hyundai Motor Company and
town of Yeongdeok is noted for giant Hyundai Heavy Industries. English-
crabs and other tasty seafood. language tours provide an insight
Hahoe Village in Andong ʪ: East of Andong ʲ: 1 hr. and 20 into the development of one of
min. from Andong ʟ: ӗ2,600 Korea’s major conglomerates.
for the Tripitaka Koreana 054-854-3669) is a small village with
woodblocks, were listed as a a delightful blend of thatched-roof Near the old city of Gyeongju, From Seoul to Pohang Ŏ
UNESCO’s prestigious World peasant houses and tiled-roof on the east coast, there are industrial 50 min. by air; 5 hrs. by bus
Cultural Heritage. yangban (aristocrat) villas. The village
ʪ: West of Daegu ʲ: 1 hr. and 30 is known for a special form of mask Gyeongju
min. from Daegu ʟ: ӗ2,800 drama, called Hahoe Byeolsingut
Talnori.
Andong ࿍౶ D5 is one of the last ʪ: 80 km (50 miles) north of Daegu yeongju was the capital of the is in the middle of Gyeongju. The
living vestiges of old Korea, a treasure
trove of Confucian tradition. Visitors
are charmed by the very old homes of
yangban, or noblemen. Queen
Elizabeth II visited Andong in April,
ʲ:
to Andong;
3 hrs. and 50 min. from Seoul
4 hrs. and 10 min.
from Seoul to Andong; 40 min. from Andong
to Hahoe by bus ʟ: ӗ1,600
G Silla Kingdom for a thousand
years, and the valley in which
it is situated has a great
concentration of historical buildings,
temples and artifacts. After Silla
park contains 20 of the more than
200 royal tombs to be found in
Gyeongju. The Cheonmachong
(Heavenly Horse Tomb) was
excavated in 1974 and yielded more
1999 on the occasion of her 73rd unified the peninsula in A.D. 676, than 10,000 treasures. These
birthday, during her four-day state the city developed into one of the treasures, including a golden crown
visit to Korea. world’s major cultural centers. The and a girdle, are in the Gyeongju
area is called a “museum without National Museum. The tomb itself
walls” because of the wealth of is open for viewing, providing
historical buildings and treasures to visitors with an opportunity to see
be found there. how the huge tombs were
Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori
constructed and how the various
From Seoul to Gyeongju Ŏ items were arranged in them. Visitors
Yeongju ဘჵ D9 , about 20 miles 4 hrs. and 30 min. by train (Saemaeulho); to this area should be sure to take the
north of Andong, can be reached by 4 hrs. and 15 min. by bus time for a peaceful stroll in this
train. serene park.
Buseoksa Temple ๛໷໒ D10 (ȭ Tumuli Park ౄൻၛ E1 (ȭ 054- ʲ: 10 min. from Gyeongju Station
Bongjeongsa Temple
054-633-3464) is nearby, and is 772-6317), a collection of royal Silla ʦ: 08:00ō18:30 ʟ: ӗ1,500
noted for having one of the oldest tombs from the Pre-Unification Era,
Bongjeongsa Temple ํჃ໒ D6 wooden buildings in Korea.
(ȭ 054-853-4181/4) is famous for ʲ: 4 hrs. and 30 min. from Daegu to
the oldest standing wooden building Buseoksa (transfer to a city bus at Yeong ju)
in the nation. Also, its main hall
demonstrates the construction Buseoksa Temple

methods of the early Joseon Dynasty.


Dosan Confucian School ౬໕໶ၛ
D7 founded by the scholar Yi
Toegye in the 16th century, is also in
Andong.
Hahoe Village ጢ፩ඇၼ D8 (ȭ

Korea travel guide


Tumuli Park
trove of Silla artifacts which are now
on display in the Gyeongju National
Museum.
ʲ: 20 min. from Gyeongju Station
ʦ: 09:00ō19:00 (09:00 ō18:00, Nov.ō
Feb.) ʟ: ӗ1,000

Divine Bell of King Seongdeak the Great

Cheomseongdae Observatory

Bulguksa Temple
Cheomseongdae Observatory ᆒ༃ౄ
E2 (ȭ 054-772-5134), the world’s
earliest known existing observatory, The Site of Bunhwangsa Temple ๝ best known temples, a testimony to
is a 7th century bottle-shaped stone ፣໒ᄕ E5 (ȭ 054-742-9922) is both the skill of Silla architects and
structure admired by archeologists located twenty minutes’ walk from the depth of Buddhist faith at the
worldwide. The square window Gyeongju National Museum. Only time. While most of the wooden
facing south in the middle of the Gyeongju National Museum ેჵ૸඄ its 3-level stone brick pagoda is still buildings have been rebuilt over the
structure is believed to have served as ฉෟ૝ E4 (ȭ 054-772-5193), a standing, which was originally nine centuries, all the stone bridges,
an entrance, and was probably place of compelling interest, levels high. stairways and pagodas are original.
reached by a ladder. preserves much of the Silla heritage, ʲ: 15 min. from Gyeongju Station; The temple, originally built in A.D.
ʪ: South of Gyeongju Station ʲ: 20 min. including magnificent gold crowns, 20 min. from Anapji Pond ʟ: ӗ1,000 535, was enlarged in A.D. 752.
from Gyeongju Station ʦ: 09:00ō18:00 pottery, Buddhist artifacts, and stone ʪ: Western slope of Mt. Tohamsan
(09:00ō17:00, Nov.ōFeb.) ʟ: ӗ300 sculptures. The museum also houses Poseokjeong Watercourse ዬ໷Ⴣ ʲ: 30 min. from Gyeongju Station
the Divine Bell of King Seongdeok E6 (ȭ 054-745-8484) is where Silla ʦ: 07:00ō18:00 (07:00ō17:00, Oct.ō
Anapji Pond ࿍࿕ᄕ E3 (ȭ 054- the Great, also referred to as the kings used to hold poetry-reciting Mar. ) ʟ: ӗ3,000
772-4041), located ten minutes’ legendary Emille Bell, one of Asia’s and drinking parties. Kings would
walk from Cheomseongdae, is the largest and most resonant bells˅19 float wine cups to his statesmen Seokguram Grotto ໷ૻ࿔ E8 (ȭ
place where the Silla royal family tons of bronze standing 11 feet high. seated around the watercourse made 054-746-9933) is one of the world’s
relaxed and enjoyed themselves. The ʲ: 10 min. from Gyeongju Station in the shape of an abalone shell. finest Buddha shrines, dating back to
pond was temporarily drained in ʦ: 09:00ō19:00 (09:00ō 17:00, Nov.ō ʲ: 20 min. from Gyeongju Station the same period as Bulguksa
1974 to reveal a veritable treasure Feb.) ʟ: ӗ400 ʡ: Mon. ʦ: 09:00ō18:00 (09:00ō18:00, Nov.ō Temple. Surrounded by
Feb.) ʟ: ӗ500 Bodhisattvas and guardian deities,
the serene central statue of Buddha
Gyeongju Tomb of General
Kim Yu-sin
Bulguksa Temple ๟૸໒ E7 (ȭ gazes out over the forested hills and
଀၉ཅၿ૒ථ
054-746-9913), is one of Korea’s across the East Sea to the horizon.
(Map E) Bomun Lake Resort Bomun Lake
พබఎხ
E9 Resort
Hyundai ጢఝጭቊ
Gyeongju Station Gyeongjuઠ჎ጭቊ
ઠ჎࿦
Bunhwangsa Bomunho Concordeᇳᇬ౵ጭቊ
Tumuli Park E5 Temple Site Lake พබጭ Choson Hotel Ⴎ໓ጭቊ
ఝൔဴ E1 Cheonmachong ึጼຫხ
ᅩൠᆅ Myeonghwalsanseong Hilton ᎄቾጭቊ
Cheomseongdae E3 Fortress
Anapji Pond ྦྮხ Gyeongju World Deokdongho
Observatory E2 ઠ჎ဵ౵
ᅫໜఝ Seokbinggo Lake
໐๟ધ
Tomb of King
Gyerim Forest Jinpyeong ჰዀထൔ
Gyeongju E4
Nat’l Museum Tomb of Queen
Tomb of Taejong ઠ჎૑൝෢මશ Seondeok໓న࿥ထൔ
Muyeol ሲႶඳ࿩ထൔ Oreung Tomb of King
Tombs࿼ൔ Tomb of King Hyogong
Sinmuཅඳထൔ
Poseokjeong Tomb of King Gyeongju
Watercourse Hwarang Sinmunཅබထൔ
House Folkcraft Village
GY

ዅ໐ႜ
E6 Dongbang Station ઠ჎ූ໵લ࿵ᆀ Tohamsan
EO

ቔጀຮ
NG

Standing Stone Seokguram Grotto


Unification Hall
BU

Three Buddha ໐૔ྭ


Images of Bae-ri E7 E8
EXPRESSWAY

Samneung Seokguram Grotto


Bulguksa
Tombs ຳൔ Tomb of King ุ૑ຫ
Hyoso Kolon
Tomb of King
Gyeongae Namsan ஆຮ
ઠྴထൔ
Bulguksa Station Bulguksa | 84 | 85 |
ุ૑ຫ࿦ ุ૑ຫጭቊ
The carving of the granite dome of center, a casino, extensive shopping and sightseeing areas.
Seokguram was a truly amazing and dining facilities, golf courses, an Special places of interest in down-
architectural feat. amusement park, pleasure boats, a town Busan are Yongdusan Park ၎ಅ
In 1995, Bulguksa Temple and hot spring, and even a contemporary ໕૙ၛ F1 and adjacent fashion and
Seokguram Grotto were added to art museum. Shuttle bus and taxi entertainment districts of
UNESCOœ s prestigious World service connect downtown Gwangbok-dong and Nampo-dong,
Cultural Heritage list. Gyeongju with the resort area. which hosts an annual international
ʪ: Near the top of Mt.Tohamsan ʲ: 20 min. from Gyeongju Station by taxi film festival in September.
ʲ: 20 min. from Bulguksa Bus Stop or hotel shuttle buses Busan’s huge Jagalchi Fish Market
ʦ: 06:00ō18:00 (07:00ō17:00, around ႛઆᇚཪႦ F2 is a fantastic scene in
December) ʟ: ӗ3,000 Much more attractions are scattered the early morning as retailers haggle
around Gyeongju: tombs of kings over the fresh fish. The fishing fleets
Bomun Lake Resort ๅෝవᄕ E9 , and generals, the holy Namsan come in before dawn, and the catch Haeundae Beach

east of downtown Gyeongju, has five Mountain, Yangdong Folk Village, is immediately unloaded dockside.
super-deluxe hotels, a convention and Oksan Confucian School. Unite