Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
Культура Документы
DYEING
GARMENT WASHING
The technology which is used to modify the appearance, outlook comfortable and fashion of the
garments is called garment washing.
PURPOSE OF WASHING
Purpose of washing/Best wash look is the best touch of a garment - This may be explained in the
following way:-
Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. After washing the
garments create a new looks which seems the new touch of fashion.
By the washing technique, faded/old look, color or tinted affect is created in the garments
which also seem the best touch of garments.
Washing technique creates new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, Blasting,
whickering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, P. P spray, hand crapping, P.P spoonzing
etc. This also seems the best touch of garments.
The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a result the
garment become size free and become soft hand feel.
When these soft garments are touched then it seems to best touch of garments.
To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and market
developments.
Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further
shrinkage of the wash garments.
Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also removed due to
washing.
TYPECS OF WASHING
1. Lot size
2. L:R – Liquor ratio
3. Temperature
4. Chemicals
5. Time
The Normal/Garment washing process of batch of 70 kg Twill/Canvas Garments are described below:
First Step :
Lot size: -....................... 70 kg Twill/Canvas Garment.
Add water at L: R = 1: 8-10.............. 560 - 700 Liter.
SILICON WASH
PIGMENT WASH
Pigment wash generally doing on pigment dyed or printed Garments by pigment washing technique.
Pigment wash is required for the following reasons:
To fading affect/old looking affect on Garment and also seam abrasion.
For soft feeling to wear the garment after purchasing.
To achieve the buyer washing standard.
To increase the color fastness & rubbing.
The pigment washing process of batch of 80 kg Twill/canvas Garments are described below:-
First Step :-
Lot size: - ...................... 80 kg Twill/Canvas Garment.
Add water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 640 Liter
Machine Running.
Add Caustic soda (NAOH)..... at 0.8 gm / liter ....... 512 gm.
Add Soda Ash (Na2Co3) ........at 1.50 gm / liter..... 950 gm.
Add Detergent ........................ at 0.8 gm / liter.... 512 gm.
Temperature........... 50°c to 60°c.
Time (Depend upon the shade) ....... 20 to 60 min.
Drop the liquor.
Soda ash created alkaline medium for the breakdown of pigment dye.
It has also a cleaning power.
It has also help color fading affect of garments.
Detergent:
Here detergent is used to remove impurities from the Garment fabric surfaces and temperature
helps detergent to enhance its action. Detergent removes the impurities from the garments fabric
surface. During coming these impurities, some pigment will be washed out from the pigment dyed
or printed area of the garments. As a result fading affect will be developed.
Acidic Acid is used to neutralize the garment from alkaline condition and to control the pH value in
wash bath.
Softener is used to make the garments treated textiles is surface feel that is bath sickly and soft and
also provides excellent lubricating properties
CAUSTIC WASH:
Caustic wash generally doing on Reactive dye, Sulpher dye, Direct dyed or printed Garments
Caustic wash is required for the following reasons:
A Distinctive Digest of Garment Washing & Dyeing
To fading/old looking affect on Garment and seam abrasion affection seam area.
To remove the size materials, starch from the garments.
To increase the color fastness & rubbing fastness.
For soft feeling to wear the garments.
To increase the hairiness on garments.
To achieve the buyer reference sample
The caustic washing processes of batch of 80 kg twill/canvas garments are described below:--
First Step :
Lot size: - ...................... 80 kg.
Add water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 640 Liter
Machine Running.
Add Caustic soda (NAOH) at 1.60 gm / liter …. 1024 gm.
Add Detergent.............. at 0.8 gm / liter ......... 432 gm.
Temperature........... 50°c to 60°c.
Time (Depend upon the shade) ....... 20 to 60 min.
Drop the liquor.
Wash cold water for 3 min.
Second Step :
Neutral Wash
Add water at L: R = 1: 5 ......... 400 liter.
Add Acetic Acid at 1 gm / liter ............. 400 gm.
Time................................... 5 min.
Here acetic acid is used to neutralize the garments from alkaline medium.
Third Step:
Add water at L: R = 1: 6.............. 480 Liter
Machine Running.
Add Acetic Acid at 0.5 gm / liter ............ 240 gm.
Add Flax softener at 0.6 gm / liter........... 288 gm.
If more soft use silicon at 0.6 gm / liter ... 288 gm.
DETERGENT:
ENZYME WASH
Enzymes are bio chemical substances that behave as catalysts toward specific
reactions. What makes very interesting the enzymes under a chemical point of view
is their high specificity or in other words, their ability to attack selectively a given
substrate
Among the two traditional enzymes used in the treatments of denim garments
(amylase to hydrolyze starches and cellulose to degrade in different way's cotton's
cellulose) there is another enzyme that can be employed to attack selectively the
molecule that constitutes the blue indigo color resulting ineffective on other kind of
dyes.
The action of enzyme during enzyme wash, it hydrolysis the cellulose, at first it
attacks the having projecting fiber and hydrolyzed them. Then it attacks the yarn
portion inside fabric and partly hydrolyzed the yarn portion and faded affect is
produced.
Mainly two types of enzyme used in Bangladesh. One is Acid Enzyme (liquid) and
another is Neutral Enzyme
Neutral Enzyme is two types - a) Powder form b) Liquid form i.e., SL Enzyme.
ACID ENZYME
NEUTRAL ENZYME
POWDER ENZYME
Enzyme is slightly white powder form.
pH range is 6 to 7.
Temperature - 40°c - 60°c.
Time required 40 to 70 min.
Enzyme affects come slowly.
Less staining/bleeding on garments.
With pumic stone comes good affect/abrasion on garments.
In dark shade enzyme affect comes good
SL ENZYME
SL enzyme is liquid form.
pH range is 6 to 7.
Temperature range 40°c - 60°c.
Time required 45 to 80 min.
Enzyme affects come slowly.
Less staining/bleeding on garments.
With pumic stone come better affect.
In dark shade enzyme affect comes good
ENZYME WASH
The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kg denim men's long pant (Trouser) are described
below :
First Step : DESIZING
Lot weight (80 Pecs) ............ 60 kg denim long pant.
Add water at L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 Liter
Machine Running
Temperature.......................... 60°c.
A Distinctive Digest of Garment Washing & Dyeing
Add Desizing agent at 0.6 gm / liter........ 324 gm.
Add Detergent at 0.8 gm / liter ............... 432 gm.
Time ................................10- 15 min.
Drop the liquor
Wash 1 time by cold water
Second Step: ENZYME
Add water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 Liter
Temperature................................ 45°c.
Add Acetic Acid at 0.3 gm / liter..... 135 CC.
Add Anti Back staining at 0.6 gm / liter ... 270 gm.
Add Neutral Enzyme at 2.00 gm / liter ... 900 gm.
Time... (Depend upon the shade)….40- 80 min.
Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute (enzyme killing).
Drain the bath.
Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes
Third Step: - SOFTENING
Add water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 Liter.
Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm / liter ............ 270 gm.
Cationic Softener at 1 gm / liter.............. 450 gm.
Temperature.......................... Cold.
Time................................ 10 to 15 min.
Drain the bath
Then unload the garments on trolley.
Fourth Step: Hydro-extractor Machine
After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydro-
extractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments
Fifth Step: Drying Machine
Load 60 kg garments to gas dryer.
Temperature set - 75°c to 85°c.
Run about 40 min.
After then run 10 min in cold dryer.
Sixth Step:
The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kegs denim men's long pant (Trouser) is described
below:
First Step: DESIZING
Lot weight (80 Pecs) ............ 60 kg denim long pant.
Add water at L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 Liter
Machine Running.
Temperature.......................... 60°c.
Add Desizing agent at 0.6 gm / liter ............ 324 gm.
Add Detergent at 0.8 gm / liter.................... 432 gm.
Time ................................15- 20 min.
Drop the liquor.
Wash 1 time by cold water
Second Step: - ENZYME
Add water at L: R = 1 : 8 ........... 480 Liter
Temperature .............................. 45°c.
Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm / liter ... 270 gm.
Add Anti Back staining at 0.6 gm / liter .... 270 gm.
Add Acid Enzyme at 2.00 gm / liter ... 900 gm.
Time... (Depend upon the shade)……..30- 60 min.
Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute (enzyme killing).
Drain the bath.
Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes
Third Step : Bleaching-
Add water at L : R = 1 : 7 .......... 420 Liter
Temperature............................. 60°c.
Add chlorine bleach (k.c.i) at 10 gm / liter …… 4200 gm.
Add soda ash at 2 gm / liter........ 840 gm.
Time (Depend upon the shade)........ 12 to 15 min.
The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kgs denim men's long pant (Trouser) are described
below:
First Step: - DESIZING
Lot weight (80 Pecs) ............ 60 kg denim long pant.
Add water at L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 Liter
Machine Running.
Temperature.......................... 60°c.
Add Desizing agent at 0.6 gm / liter ............ 324 gm.
Add Detergent at 0.8 gm / liter.................... 432 gm.
Time ................................15- 25 min.
Drop the liquor.
Wash 1 time by cold water
Second Step : ENZYME
Add water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 Liter
Temperature.......................... 45°c.
Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm / liter ............ 270 gm.
Add Anti Back staining at 0.6 gm / liter. 270 gm.
Add Acid Enzyme at 2.00 gm / liter ....... 900 gm.
Time ... (Depend upon the shade).......35- 60 min.
Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute (enzyme killing).
Drain the bath.
Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes
Third Step : Bleaching
Add water at L: R = 1: 7.............. 420 Liter
Temperature.......................... 50°c to 60°c.
Add chlorine bleach (k.c.i) at 20 gm / liter. 8400 gm.
Add sodium bi carbonate at 4 gm / liter..... 1680 gm.
Time (Depend upon the shade)........ 12 to 20 min.
Drop the liquor.
Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.
(TWILL/CANVAS/POPLIN)
The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kg Twill/Canvas/Poplin/Corduroy) trouser are described
below :
First Step: - DESIZING
Lot weight (Approx 125 Pecs) ............ 60 kg.
Add water at L : R = 1 : 10 .............. 600 Liter
Machine Running.
Add Desizing agent at 0.6 gm / liter........ 360 gm.
Add Detergent at 0.5 gm / liter ............... 300 gm.
Temperature.......................... 50-60°c.
Time ........................................10- 20 min.
Drop the liquor.
Rinse one time 3 minutes
Second Step: ENZYME
Add water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 Liter
Temperature.......................... 45°c.
Add Acetic Acid at 0.5 gm / liter.............. 240 gm.
Add Acid Enzyme at 1.2 gm / liter ............ 600 gm.
Add Antistain at 0.50 gm / liter ...........,,.. 240 gm.
Time (Depend upon the standard).... 30 to 60 min.
Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute.
Drain the bath.
Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes
Third Step :- SOFTENING
Add water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 Liter.
Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm / liter ............ 288 gm.
Pumic Stone:-
The pumic stone are the perforated stones, produced from volcanic explosion.
At first these stones are soft but becomes cold, it becomes the stones with rough surface,
Pumic stones float on water.
Pumic stones come from Indonesia and Turkey.
Indonesia stone color is slightly brown and Turkey stone is white color.
Pumic stones are available in 3 size i.e. small 2-3 cm, medium 3-5 cm and large size 5-7 cm.
Two to Three times can be used are pumic stone.
Every bag contain 22 kg to 25 kg and price 400/= to 425/=/ bag
STONE WASH
BLEACH WASH
Enzyme
Acetic Acid
Detergent
Antistain
Bleaching powder
Sodium hyposulfite
Caustic Soda
Soda Ash
Sodium Bicarbonate
Potassium permanganate
ENZYME: The action of enzyme during enzyme wash it hydrolysis the cellulose. At first it
attacks the having projecting fibers and hydrolyzed them. Then it attacks the yarn portion
inside fabric and party hydrolyzed the yarn portion. As a result color comes out from the
yarn portion and faded affect is produced.
DETERGENT: Chemical character is fatty alcohol polyglycol ether in an aqueous, glycolic
solution. Detergent is widely applicable in the continuous and discontinuous pretreatment
of all tyPecs of fiber and their blends. To remove impurities, mineral oil contamination and
sizes from the garments scouring of goods for dyeing and printing fully white and colored
articles.
ACETIC ACID (CH3COOH) : Acetic Acid is used to neutralize the garments from alkaline
condition and to control the pH value in wash bath.
ANTISTAIN: Antistain is used to prevent the staining on weft yarn of the denim (white yarn),
white pockets of garment, levels, and contacted fabrics of garment and increased the
brightness of fabrics; it is also acts as anti-creasing agent.
BLEACHING POWDER: Bleaching powder is an oxidizing agent. It is used in washing plant for
color out from the denim garments. We can achieve deferent shade of color on garment i.e.
Dark, Medium, Light shade.
During Acid wash, pumic stones are used. By the action of pumic stones, irregular fading affect is
developed on the heavy garments like denims, thick canvas/twill, and sweater. The pumic stones act
a brushing action on the garment fabric surface. The area where more brushing action takes place
there more discolor or fading affect is developed and the area where less brushing action takes place
less brushing action and takes place less fading affect will be developed. The multi-layer fabric areas
like – collar, calf, pocket, placket, and side seam etc area will be brushed more than the single layer
areas. As a result irregular fading affect will be developed on the garments fabric surface. Thus in
this way fading affect may be developed on the garment by acid wash technique.
When fabrics come in to garment factory against any order from abroad / local fabric dyeing factory,
it’s found different color shade roll in the same color i.e. slide light, slide dark, slide tone different for
this reason garment factory to control shade variation works as follows:-
8"×8" size fabric cut from every roll.
Marking roll number by permanent marking pen at back side of cut Pecs.
Every cut Pecs joint each other and make a blanket.
Then it washes into standard approval shade.
Garment factory now segregate same color tone in one bundle and shade grading A.B.C.D.
First A shade roll cutting by pattern then B.C.D shade separately.
After garment making shade level attached on body.
Then go to washing plant for standard washing.
Washing plant shade level wise washing in respective wash.
After wash it any big shade variation found then again rewash to match with buyer approval
standard.
Final quality checking garment go to finishing section for thread cutting, button attached,
iron & poley etc.
This type of process is done after different types of washing before softening.
Normally after Acid wash, Stone wash, Stone enzyme wash, Sand Blasting, Enzyme wash etc.
tinting & over dyeing is done.
Tinting & over dyeing is done with Direct dyes or Reactive dyes.
First Step: - After different wet processing i.e. Acid wash, Stone wash, Enzyme wash, Stone enzyme
wash, Bleach wash take 60 kg garment for Tinting & over dyeing.
Water at L: R = 1: 7.............. 420 Liter
Run the Machine.
Temperature................. 50 - 80°c
Dir. Brown GTL - at 0.04%........... 24 Gms.
Dir. Orange ZTL - at 0.01%........... 6 Gms.
Add Salt at 20 gm / liter ............ 8.40 kg.
Add Leveling agent at 0.5% /........ 210 gm.
Time................................ 10 to 30 mts.
Rinse by cold water 3 minutes.
Second Step: - FIXING
Batch size .............................. 60 kg.
Water at L: R = 1: 7.............. 420 Liter
Run the Machine.
Temperature................. 50°c
Add fixing agent at 0.8 %(owf) ... 480 gm.
Time............................................ 10 mts.
Third Step: - Softening.
Batch size.................... 60 kg.
water at L : R = 1 : 7 ............................ 420 Liter
Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm/liter ............ 250 gm.
Add Cationic softener at 1 gm/liter ...... 420 gm.
SAND BLASTING:
Aluminum oxide (Al2O3) is used for Sand Blasting which is looks like sand.
P.P spray & P.P sponging is doing in Denim, Twill, Poplin, Corduroy generally middle of wash
i.e. after enzyme wash, stone enzyme wash.
If need some particular area more white then we are doing p.p spray & p.p. sponging.
If we want more white effect in some particular area of garments by Blasting then it high risk
of damage. So we select p.p. spray & p.p. sponging which is chemically action.
After p.p. spray & p.p. sponging need to neutralize the garment Sodium metabisulphite, then
whitish effect come on respective area of garments.
Standard stock solution is 0.4% i.e. 100 Liter water 400 grams potassium permanganate.
P.P. spray is done by nozzle and has a switch to start & stop.
For spray on garments need dry air which is supplied from screw compressor and p.p. stock
solution tank.
P.P. spray on garment need one chamber, different types of dummy and exhaust fan.
P.P. sponging is done manually.
By foam/fabric pcs wet in p.p. stock solution and rubbing particular area of garment by hand
as a result fadding affects on garments.
WHISKERING:
TAGGING:
Tagging is doing on garment for fashion and value added fashion wear.
Tagging is doing by Tagging machine.
Tagging is doing also by needle & thread & manually.
After wash upper portion of garment shows crease marks and inside of tagging occurs Dark
shade.
GRINDING:
Grinding is doing on garment for mainly old/used look appearance & fashion.
Grinding is doing on hem, pocket edge, west belt, pocket opening, and pocket pluf of
garments.
Grinding is done by grinding machine, sand paper by manually.
DESTROY:
Generally permanent wrinkle is doing on garments after all types of wet process wash in dry
position.
Permanent wrinkle is done on the garments made from all types of fabrics like, Denim, Twill,
Canvas, Poplin, Corduroy, Knit & Polyester etc.
For permanent wrinkle we are use resin which is spray on garments particular/specific area
by nozzle.
Resin is diluted with water which is recommended by chemical supplier, generally 20% resin
& 80% water.
After resin spray on respective area, then fold by buyer demand and clip attached upon the
folding area.
Now hangers the garment in to the hanger trolley, Trolley capacity approx. 80-100 pcs
garments.
Then trolley with resin treatment garments put inside the Industrial oven.
Set temperature 140°c to 160°c, Time 20-40 minutes (if folding layer is less, Less time
required, if folding Layer is more, more time is required).
Start the machine.
When setting time is over, machines are automatically off.
After heating time over garments with hanger will stay 10 minutes for cold in oven.
Now open the door and trolley with garment out from oven.
Open the clip from garment and go to quality section for quality checking & delivery.
Generally overall wrinkle is doing on garments after all types of wet process & dry process.
Garments Dyeing:-
First Step:-
Batch size.................... 60 kg cotton shirt (grey).
Water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 Liter.
Running the machine.
Temperature .................. 90°c.
Detergent at 2% ............ 1.2 kg.
Caustic at 8% ................ 4.8 kg.
Soda Ash at 5% ............ 3.00 kg.
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2o2) at 12%... 7.20 kg.
Stabilizer at 5% ............ 3.00 kg.
Time............................. 60 to 80mts.
Drop the liquor
Second Step: - HOT WASH.
Batch size ...................... 60 kg.
Water at L: R = 1: 10.... 600 Liter.
Running the machine.
Temperature ................... 50°c.
Time................................ 5 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Third Step: - NEUTRAL.
Batch size....................... 60 kg.
Water at L: R = 1: 7......... 420 Liter.
WASHING PROCESS:-
First Step:-
Batch size.................... 60 kg cotton shirt (grey).
Water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 Liter.
Running the machine.
Temperature...................................... 90°c.
Detergent at 2% (owf)........................ 1.20 kg.
Caustic Soda at 8% (owf).................... 4.80 kg.
Soda Ash at 5% (owf).......................... 3.00 kg.
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2o2) at 12% (owf)...7.20 kg.
Stabilizer at 5% (owf)........... 3.00 kg.
Time................................ 70 -80 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Second Step:-
Batch size......................... 60 kg.
Water at L: R = 1: 8........ 480 Liter.
Running the machine.
Temperature ...................... 90°c.
Detergent at 2%................. 1.20 kg.
Caustic at 4% ..................... 2.40 kg.
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) at 10%... 6.00 kg.
DIRECT DYEING:
SULPHER DYEING:
We can consider stone enzyme wash 60 kg/80 pcs of denim men’s long pant. Now in our Bangladesh
maximum Denim garment is washing STONE ENZYME WASH. It is most popular wash for Buyer. A
process of stone enzyme wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Long Pant as mentioned below:-
First Step: - PRE-TREATMENT / DESIZING