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Ignition Coils (LUCAS INDIA)

Type Application Description
269410588 7C6 1000CC, OMINI
45138D 7C12
26941094A 7C12 (ELECTRONIC
26412518 7C12 &1000CC,OMNI,ZEN & ESA COIL

7C6 Ignition Coil

Type: 7C6 With Ballast Resistor
Voltage Distributor: 12
Applications: Cars

7C range of coils are manufactured in ballasted and non- ballasted

models, and are suitable for petrol engines with compression ratio
8.5:1 with conventional (contact breaker) battery ignition systems.

Note: Coils suitable for Electronic Ignition Systems can be supplied

on request.

7C 12 Electronic Ignition Coil

Type: 7C12
Voltage Distributor: 12
Applications: Cars

7c12 electronic ignition coil black finish with polyester resin, blue
colour coil top designed for petrol engines having electronic ignition

Maruti 800 Standard (Petrol) Features and Specifications Overview

Body Type Hatchback Number of doors 4

Fuel Efficiency City Mileage 15 kmpl Highway Mileage 18.3 kmpl
Fuel Capacity 28 litre Fuel Type Petrol
Engine Parameters Displacement 796 cc
Bore 68.5 mm Stroke 72 mm
Cylinder Configuration 3-inline
Valve Gear Operation SOHC
Compression Ratio 8.8:1
No. Of Valves 6


Maruti car 800 cc / omni/gypsy/1000cc/Van : AICPD - 001

Maruti Zen : AICPD - 002

Ballast Resistor
Ballast resistor getting HOT on ignition on..

"So, why does mine smoke?" says you. Well, it shouldn't, so there is a problem. The
resister gets rid of that extra 6 volts by turning it into heat. Yours is making to much
heat, so it's being asked to eat too much voltage. a couple of possibilities:

1. The coil is partially shorted, so it's not using up it's fair share of the 13.8 volts
available, and this forces the ballast resistor to over-eat, because it's gotta go
somewhere, and it over-heats (this is my guess)
2. The dwell is too long. These parts are made to work only part time. The points
in the distributor close, then open (or this close-open function is accomplished
electronically if it's a distributor without points.) If they are staying closed for
too long (dwell too long) current flows through the coil (and resistor) for too
long a time, and it's rest period is too short, so it overheats and smokes.
3. The resistor is partially shorted, so this allows the current flow through it to be
too high, so it overheats. This failure is uncommon becuse when the resistor is
abused it will usually burn open insteat of partially short. Besides, this failure
will ussually take out the coil before the resistor smokes.
4. A combination of failures. The points stick, which causes the coil to overheat
so it developes a partial short, which causes the resistor to get hot, so it
developes a short etc. You get the idea.

Amaron-Go battery(35 Amps) for

Maruti 800 Amaron 35 AH, 335-
360CCA battery

To Find out
1)What are the CCA ratings of the
products and (Ampere Hour
2)what are the Reserve Capacities of
the products
3)what are the guarantee/warranty
4)Exchange rebate for old battery.
5)service availability in locality
Amaron GO batteries - Lasts long, really long
Amaron GO, brought to you by Amara Raja Batteries Limited (ARBL), the largest manufacturers of Stand-by
VRLA Industrial Batteries in the Indian Ocean Rim and Johnson Controls Inc, USA; the global leader in
Interior experience, building efficiency and power solutions.

What makes it so good

Amaron GO batteries are made in a QS 9000, ISO 14001 & TS 16949 certified plant using world class
technology and stringent quality control parameters that make them last long, really long. Some of the other
features that add to making the Amaron GO so good: longest life, patented BIC vents for enhanced safety,
the highest cranking power and a completely unnecessary 36 months warranty.

Amaron GO batteries Design Features and


Long life - Thanks to the reformulated Advanta paste recipe.

Maintenance Free - High heat technology, premium silver alloys (SILVEN X) for a low-corrosion and no top-
ups experience.

Factory Fresh - Wet Shipped and ready to fit.

O.E.Customer Model Number Rating
Hyundai(Santro) 38B20R 12V 35Ah
Maruti Udyog Ltd(Wagon R) 38B20L 12V 35Ah
Maruti Udyog Ltd(Swift) 38B20R 12V 35Ah
HONDA(City) 34B19L 12V 32Ah
HONDA(Accord) 55B24L 12V 60Ah

An ampere-hour or amp-hour (symbol Ah , A·h, A h) is a unit of electric charge,

with sub-units milliampere-hour (mAh) and milliampere second (mAs). One
ampere-hour is equal to 3,600 coulombs (ampere-seconds), the electric charge
transferred by a steady current of one ampere for one hour.[1] The ampere-hour is
frequently used in measurements of electrochemical systems such as electroplating
and electrical batteries. The commonly seen milliampere-hour (mAh or mA·h) is one-
thousandth of an ampere-hour (i.e., 3.6 coulombs).

Understanding Amp Hours

If you have never dealt with deep cycle batteries, you may have run across
the term “Amp Hours” abbreviated Ah. This term is used to express the
storage capacity of deep cycle batteries. This is the maximum sustained
amperage drawn from a fully charged battery over a certain time period to a
point where the battery is at 100% DOD (depth of discharge), for all purposes
dead! This amperage is then multiplied by the discharge period to give the
battery its Ah rating. The period of time used to drain and measure the battery
is usually 20 hours, although longer or shorter time periods may be used
depending on the application.

As an example, a 200Ah (20 hr rate) battery can sustain a 10-Amp draw for
20 hours before reaching 100%DOD. 10 Amps X 20 hours = 200Ah. You may
say that this same 200Ah battery should last 4 hours with a 50Amp draw, but
this is not the case at all. The reason for this non-linearity is that the capacity
of a battery actually decreases when the load increases. Take a look at fig. 1
to understand how the Ah ratings vary depending on the discharge period.
fig. 1

Let’s use the example above of a 200Ah battery and see what its Ah capacity
would really be for a 4-hour discharge period. Using the chart, find the 4-hour
mark and follow it up vertically until you cross the flooded battery curve. Then
follow the horizontal line across until you reach a percentage. In our example
the 4-hour line intersects the flooded battery curve at about 70%. This means
the battery has 70% of the capacity it had when discharged at the 20 hour
rate. This comes to 140Ah or a 35 Amp draw, quite a bit lower than the 50
Amp draw expected.

200Ah X 70% = 140Ah @ (4-hr rate)

140Ah / (4-hr rate) = 35 Amps

As you may have noticed, if we chose an AGM or Gel type battery, we would
have had 84% of our original 200Ah, or 168Ah (4-hr rate). This means we
could draw 42 Amps from the battery for 4 hours. Does this mean that AGM or
Gel cell batteries are always better? In short the answer is no, not in all
applications. All batteries have their strengths and weaknesses and it is
beyond the scope of this article to explain them.

When shopping for a battery, do not try to compare batteries with Ah ratings
based on the 20hr rate with batteries based on a 100hr rate. Flooded batteries
may have between 25% to 40% larger Ah ratings when using the 100hr rate
vs. their 20hr rate. AGM and Gel cells may have 20% to 25% higher Ah
ratings if they were based on the 100hr rate vs. their 20-hour rate. To keep
yourself from being confused, always use the 20hr rate when designing home
power battery storage.
So how long can we run a 50 Amp load on a 200 Ah flooded battery? How
does 2.5 hours sound? 2.5Ah rate = 63% capacity X 200Ah = 126Ah (2.5hr
rate). 126Ah / 2.5hrs = 50.4 Amps! Hey we have a little room to spare, or do

How about throwing a few more wrenches into the works by talking about
some other factors that effect battery capacity. The largest factor is battery
life. The deeper you discharge a battery during normal use, the shorter its
overall life span will be. In the examples above, we discharged the battery to
100% DOD. Repeatedly discharging a battery to this depth will severely
shorten its lifespan. Although you can periodically cycle a battery down to
80% DOD with virtually no damage to the battery, it will still shorten its life if
done on a regular basis.

Most deep cycle battery manufacturers recommend a Depth Of Discharge of

50%. This is a good compromise between battery life, storage capacity, and
economics. In our example above this immediately cuts our 200 Ah battery
down to 100 Ah if we want it to have a good life span.

Let’s talk about another factor and that is battery temperature. In general, a
warmer battery has a higher capacity. The opposite is also true; a colder
battery has a lower capacity. If taken to extremes, the battery may be
damaged by excessive heat or cold. Take a look at fig. 2 to see how capacity
is affected by temperature.

Fig. 2
If we were to use our 200 Ah battery outside in winter and the battery’s
temperature was just above freezing, say 34 deg F. We could use the chart to
see what kind of capacity we could expect from it. Find 34 degrees and follow
it up to the capacity curve and we see that the capacity of the battery is only
80% of normal.

200Ah X 80% = 160Ah

To go a step further lets say we wanted to only discharge our battery to 50%.
So our 200Ah battery now becomes an 80 Ah battery when used in the cold
near freezing. One nice advantage about cold batteries is that their useful life
is extended. Conversely, if a battery is always hot, its life will be shortened.
Most installations see both hot and cold, so the life expectancy pretty much
evens out. Bottom line is, give your batteries a sheltered place to live that will
limit the temperature extremes.

Two other factors that greatly influence battery capacity are charging and
maintenance. Over and under charging of deep cycle batteries is the most
common cause of premature loss of capacity. Overcharging can “boil off” the
electrolyte leaving the plates high and dry in a flooded battery. In the case of
gel cell batteries, permanent damage can occur if the maximum charge
voltage is exceeded and pockets of gas deform the gel around the plates.
Undercharging can cause a buildup of lead sulfate on the battery plates.
When you bring a battery back to full charge each cycle, the lead sulfate is
recombined into the plates and electrolyte. Never leave or store a battery in a
semi-charged state, keep the batteries charged if not in use. Stored batteries
can be left on a trickle charge or at least topped off every couple of months.
Always follow the battery manufacturers recommendations for charging and
maintenance to ensure maximum capacity and life.