General Information Tools and Techniques Tmubieshootlng

Lubrication, Maintenance and Tune-up

Engine Synchronization and Linkage Adjustments

Ignition and ElecMui Systems

Automatic Rewind S t a d s Power Trim and

and Remote Control

Contents

QUICK REFERENCE DATA

..........................................................................................IX

................................ ........................................................
.............................................."...**..,W..3S,
Delte and Motorola I (1974-1979)

CHATTER R &

UIBRKMlO#r MAINTENANCE AND TUNCUP

. . latmwm ........................................................ 109 Oesnvleendwaterplmpduck .............................. 124

.........................................................

109

............................................ 8 $ @ @ xt&@awe .......................... d fliWq.................................................... 119 l + b ............................................................ I20 ~ Cmpmsbn Ebslr .............................................. I20 elinaol hed bdt Mgoe...................................... I 2 ..................................................... 1
-'

.........................................................

1 s s e m i c e .............................................. 124 ytm Breaker point ignition system m i e e ........................126 Battery and stalter motor check (electric start models only) .................................. W Stamr rclal/solemid check (electric sPY( mdels only) ..I31 W i hmess check ............................................ I31 ls rg . . l%@ne syncbroaushon end adjustment ...................... l32 Pe&mm~eIest(onbolll)..................................... I32

CHAPTER FIVE ENGINE SYNCHRONIZATION AND LINKAGE ADNSTMENTS

Er&c Iiming and syncluunization ...........................I 9 Ch;8ler outboards 55 hp (IQ17.l980) 60 hp 3 (lmet976) 65 hp (1977.1978) end 1 5 I20 aad 0. Clvylkr wtbmrds 3.5 hp 11966-1969)....................... 140 I35bp(l975-Imr)aritb~ni@ion W Qryslerombavds3.5hp(1980-00)aad4hp(197Pon).141 Chrya*routbods 3 6 h p ~ l 9 7 7 ) e n d 4 h p ~ 1 9 7 8 ) 1 4 2Chrpskroutbouds70-USbp(disaibmlar poiDt ignitiml) .................................................. I57 Chrysler wmoprds 4.4.8 hp (lnukcr point ignition) .....143 C h r y k outkm~& 6-8 bp (CD igdtbu).................... 145 CluyslCI outboards 70-140 hp (Mo(omIr elstmaic d i s t r i i ignition) ............................................ 163 Chrysler outbwds 9.215 hp (1966-on) ...................... W Chrysler oumoards 20 hp (1966-1976) ........................ 147 Chrysler outboards 55. I25 end 140 hp ( P m l i t e CD ignition)....................................... 165 Chrysler outboards 20 hp (19794982) 25 and d 30 hp (all) and 35 hp (i976-1979) .......................... 148 Force outboards 4 9.9 a l5 hp ...........................I66 bree outbonds 35 hp .......................................... %7 Chrysla outbards 35 end 45 bp (D66m) U) bp ( 9 6aad 19%Lon)end 55 bp (1967-Km) 16 ................. I51 m n r o u t b o u d s u e n d U5hp................................ m

......................................139 .
.
.........

..

CmrlEuSIx FUEL SYSTEM PPd pnnp ............. i............................................ 176

Raed ralve essembly............................................. l98 Cakustma ........................................................ 183 Choke solenoid ...................................................202 c.rknsbr d - o n ................................183 Inre@ fwl tank................................................. 203 CPlwaor dislsscmMylrrPembly .............................8l Fbmibk fucl tank ................................................ 205 l5 W r w r r a ~ e n d i a r p s t i o ...........................m P l w l ~ e n d p r i m a b u l ...................................... n b m AoladjmEad.................................................. m Plwlltximhhsydesll ....................................... m

.....................................

.176

CnAm SEVEN

ICNmON AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

Buty ....................................................... 2 MaDaorcbar&aygan ..................................... 2l5 O c P o M r e b a g i c l g ..................................... 220 ~

.................................................................... 209 ................................

Magneto brrahr p o k ignition
Bptlenbnalmpointlpnilion

M b r o r syamr ........................................... 220

ebmieamingsyslrm

.........................................

A m D b o h i c ~ ~ t y...........................23l m l &&ion systcols .................................................. 23a

................................. 242 ~ i s m h ( a C D i g & m ......................................... 245 M a g m p m e r U i g & m ......................................... 248 AIk.nuWr CD ignition........................ :................. 254 ~ i Q . C D i g o i t m o.......................................... 258

238

jB -

tap s i l d % a b

........................... a66
........ i a 6

..- ..w ...."..........." "..-......".*. a a .................'... ..... .............................. ".. ........... **

Pbacr ba;d mala ad cm&@
md. Caractlqldrado*bbdt CglhderBbfLrdolrbrr.Irmbly

.................................*,....

....................... ... m ...

................................... 303 .............................. .................... *as

38Fa

CHAAER NINE

GwmcmE
Rqwlh

........................................................... 323 Oearcase r e m a d h i.................................. 325

................................................ ............................................................ 323 ........... ........................... .

Pnssure testing
J Zinc anode ........................................................ 366 Gear shift l i e adjustment .................................. 367 Water pump ....................................................... 368

aeacaae dbMe5bIyJ-y ............................ 333 Oasra &anhg and inapedion............................. 358 Phdar gar nbhmhg and propclln end f l a t .............359

CHAPTER TEI -*T" ~ M A

.i

........................................ 3 hp) ........................................ 377 hp) ........................................ 381

TS W E R S ~ l

............................................................................ ~ ~ 375 ............................................

Spool ScPner (35 hp) 384 Flywheel mounted starter ......................................388

........................... . . .......... .

D TILT AND REMUTE CONTROL SYSTEMS

3 9

Rcmote control ....................................

..................................... 393
4

......, ......................................................................................................... 403 W l t A M S ............................................................................... d o book f

SPARK W CllOMREPERENCE C
Champion
10( 11

AC

Antolit@

II

1. 8p.rk phtgs p r o d u d by dlffamnt manufactumn do not h.vm identical hmml mnng. . -c If tha OM& dw ncannwndod bv lhr anmlnm rnmnut.otumr Is not avallmblr. u m s tM.chat to dotonnlnm'a a&bk mqulvmlont plug.2. ChNnDbn J U and JSJ olugo am suwrcedod by J m no C I W S - ~ ( ~ ~ O is C ~ I I avallabls for J8C.

5 1s Mpr 26mps ' >

16.8 houd 4.2 hour 2.4 houn

18 howr 13 hour 12 h w n

INTRODUCTION
This Clymer shop manual covers senice and repair l of a l 1966-1984 Chrysler 3.5-140 hp and 1984-1988 Force 4-125 hp outboards. Step-by-step instructions and hundreds of illustrations guide you through jobs ranging from simple maintenance to complete overhaul. This manual can be used by anyone from a lirst time amateur to a professional mechanic. Easy to read type, detailed drawin@ and clear photographs give you all the information you need to do the work right. Having a wellmaintained engine will increase your enjoyment of your boat as well as assure your safety offshore. Keep this shop manual handy and use it often. It can save you hundreds of dollars in maintenance and repair b i i and make yours a reliable, topperforming &at.

Chapter One

General Information

Jlad, comprehensive manual a&& information on mainp , repair and overhaul, s and drawings guide you r . m

use &d what to do. their hands dirty, of and with some r ean perform most of the

MANUAL ORGANIZATION This chapter provides general information useful to marine owners and mechanics. Chapter Two discthe tools and techniques for preventive maintenance, troubleshooting and repair. Chapter Three describes t p c l equipment yia problems and provides logical trouble-

aan twls and techniques.

I&&& a reference. You want to iafbmation fast. Clymer

simple step-by-step form. concerning a specific system the end of the appropriate chapter.
NOTES, CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS The terms NOTE, CAUTION

photos* etc., in this

easier or clearer.

CHAPTER ONE
to complete the Otto cycle. Figore 3 shows gasoline 2-stroke engine operation. While diesel 2-strokes exist, they are not commonly used in light marine applications.
FASTENERS

a CAUTION could cause permanent

mechanical damage; however, personal injury is unlikely. A WARNING emphasizes areas where personal injury or even death could result from negligence. Mechanical damage may a h occur. WARNINGS are to be taken seriousIy. In some cases, serious injury or death has resulted from disregarding similar

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Torque specifications throughout t i hs m n a are given in fa-pounds (ft.-lb.) and aul e t e Newton meters (N-m) or meterihr kilograms (mkg). Newton meters are being adopted in place of meter-kilograms in accordance with thc International Modemized Metric System. Existing torque wrenches calibrated in meter-kilograms can be used by performing a simple conversion: move the d c m l point one place to the right. For eia example, 4.7 mkg 47 N*m. T i hs conversion is accurate enough for mechanics' use even though the exact mathematical conversion is 3.5 mkg = 34.3 N m .

The material and design of the various fasteners used on marine equipment are not arrived at by chance or accident. Fastener design determines the type of tool required to work with the fastener. Fastener material is carefully selected to decrease the possibility of physical hilure or corrosion. See Galvanic Corrosion in this chapter for more information on marine materials.
Threads Nuts, bolts and screws are manufactured in a wide range of thread patterns. To join a nut and bolt, the diameter of the bolt and the diameter of the hole in the nut must be the same. It is just as important that the threads on both be properly matched. The best way to tell if the threads on 2 fasteners are matched is to turn the nut on the bolt (or the bolt into the threaded hole in a piece of equipment) with fingers only. Be sure both pieces are clean. If much force is required,check tiie thread condition on each f W e r . If the thread condition is good but the fastenem jam, the threads are not compatible. Four important specifications describe every thread: a. Diameter. b. Threads per inch. c. Thread pattern. d. Thread direction. F i e 4 shows the first 2 specifications. Thread pattern is more subtle. Italian and British standards exist, but the most commonly used by marine equipment manufactwen are American standard and

ENGINE OPERATION

.r
i
i
I
i '

Al marine engines, whether 2- or Cstroke, l gasoline or diesel, operate on the Otro cycle of intake, compression, power and exhaust P . 44troke Cyde A 4-stroke engine requires 2 crankshaft revolutions (4 strokes of the piston) to complete the Otto cycle. Figure 1 shows gasoline 4-stroke engjne operation. F i 2 shows diesel 4-stroke engine operation.

?-stroke Cycle A 2-~tsoke engine requires only 1 cnnksW revolution (2 strokes of the piston)

CHAPTER ONE

W h k th.Qmnk.km cmtinlm ta , ma pi.ton up*nrd, d n g the tnnrfa(B) a d .xhwst (A) port..

Tk.m-wf.--

the new air-hd rnkium

STROKE OPERATING PRINCIPLES

n r h r s ih.top oc its w,au swn PIUS-

(h*IpnmlIk. calwnud air-fuel

-.b l o p aRHdplston a

Contw VOC)and Is pl*wd downward by the nqvndkrO g.-8.

As the piston travels down, the exhaust gases leave the cylinder end the complete cycle starta ell over eaaln.

CHAPTER ONE

metric standard. The threads are cut differently as shown in 5. Ms threads ace cut so that the fastener ot must be turned clockwise to tighten it. These are called right-hand thnads.Some fasteners have left-hand threads; they must be tumed counterclockwhe to be tightened. Left-hand threads are used in locations where n o d rotation of the equipment drould tend to l o o m a right-hand threaded fastener.

bolt indicates the proper wrench size to be

used.
Nuts are manufactured in a variety of types and sizes. Ms are hexagonal (6-sided) and ot fit on bolts, screws and studs with the same diameter and threads per inch. FIlpw 8 s h d several types of nuts. The oommon nut is usually used with a lockwasher. Self-locking nuts have a nylon insert which prevents the nut &om loosening no lockwasher is required. Wing nuts are designed for fast removal by hand. Wn nuts ig are used for convenience in non-critical locations. To indicate the size of a nut, manufactwers specify the diameter of the opening and the threads per inch. This is similar to bolt specification, but without the length dimension. The measurement across 2 flats on the nut indicates the proper wrench size to be used.

T e e are many different types pf machine hr screws. Figure 6 shows a number of screw heads requiring different types of turning tos (see Chapter Two for w e d ol information). H a s are also designed to ed protrude above the metal (round) or to be slightly recessed in the metal (flat) (Fisrue 7).
Bob Commonly called bolts, the technical name for these fhsteners is cap screw. They are normally described by diameter, threads per incli and l n t . For example, l/4-20x1 egh indicates a bolt 1/4 in. in diameter with 20 threads per inch, 1 in. long. The mcaammcnt across 2 h t s on the head of the

There are 2 basic types of washers.. Bat washers and lockwashers. Flat washers are simple discs with a hole to fit a screw or bolt.

CHAPTER ONE

rings can be of an internal or external T e are used to retain items on hy

al type) or w t i tubes (internal ihn Snap rings can be reused if they are not &toted during removal. In some applications, snap rings of varying thicknes clfn be selected to control the end play oj assemblies.

m).

LUBRICANTS

Periodic lubrication assures long service life for any type of equipment. It is especSy important to marine equipment, which is exposed to salt or bmlcish water and other harsh environments. The type of lubricant used is j s as important as the lubrication ut service itself, although in an emergency the wrong type of lubricant is better than none at all. The following paragraphs describe the types of lubricants most often used on marine equipment. Be sure to follow the equipment manufacturer's recommendations for lubricant types. Generally, all liquid lubricants are called "oil." They may be mineral-based (including petroleum bases), natural-based (vegetable and animal bases), synthetiq-based or emulsions (mixtures). "Grease" is an oil to which a thickening base has been added so that the end product is a semi-solid. Grease is often classified by the type of thickener added; lithium soap is commonly used.
btroke Engine Oil

Oil for Cstroke engines is graded by the Ibmsrican Petroleum Institute (API) and the
Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) in

oils for diesel engines are identitied by a "C." Most modem gasoline engines require SE or SF graded oil. Automotive and marine diesel engines use CC or CD graded oil. Viscosity is an indication of the oil's thickness. The SAE uses numbers to indiate viscosiw, thin oils have low numbers while thick oils have high numbers. A "W" after the number indicates that the viscosity testing w s done at low temperature to simulate a cold-weather operation. Engine oils fall into the 5W-20W and 20-50 range. Multi-grade oils (for example, 10W-40) are less viscous (thinner) at low temperaturea and more viscous (thicker) at high temperatures. This allows the oil to perform efficiently across a wide range of engine operating temperatures.
2-stroke Engine Oil

sGnmtl categories. Oil containers display t e e rathyg on the top or label (Figure 11). hs API oil gmde is indicated by letters; oils for gasoline engines are identilied by an "S*-while

Lubrication for a 2-stroke engine is provided by oil mixed w t the incoming ih

fuel-air mixture. Some of the oil mist settles out in the crankcase, lubricating the crankhait and lower end of the KIMrods. The rest of the oil enters the combustion chamber to lubricate the piston rings and cylinder walls. This oil is burned during the combustion process. Engine oil must have several special qualities to work well in a 2-stroke engine. It must m x easily and stay in suspension i i n gasoline. When burned, it can't leave behind excessive deposits. It must be appropriate for the high temperatures associated with 2-stroke engines. The National Marine Manufacturer's Association (NMMA) and the Boating Industry Association (BIA) have set standards for oil for use in Zstroke, watercooled engines. This is the BIA TC-W (two-cycle, water-cooled) grade (Figure 12). The oil's performance in the following areas is evaluated: a. Lubrication (prevention of wear and b. Spark plug fouling. c. Preignition. d. Piston ring sticking. e. Piston varnish. f. General engine condition (including deposits). g. Exhaust port blockage. h. Rust prevention. i. Mixing ability with gasoline. In addition to oil grade, m a n u k t m m specify the ratio of gpsoline to oil rcq&ml during break-in and normal engine operascuffing).

Gear O i l Gear lubricants are assigned SAE

numbers under the same system as engine oil. Gear lubricant MIS 72.250 range (irlglac 13). lubriamts ace m d $ m EPli, B5W-9L).

10

CHAPTER ONE

Various additives are put into gear oils to tailor them for specific uses; these additive packages are graded by the API and identified by the letters "GL" and a number. GL-4 and GL-5 are the most commonly used.

Grease Greases are graded by the National Lubricating Grease Institute 0 Greases . are graded by number according to the consistency of the grease; these ratings range f o No. 000 to No. 6, with No. 6 being the rm most solid. A typical multipurpose grease is N U i I No. 2 (Figme 14). For speci6c applications, equipment manufactums may require grease with an additive such as molybdenum &sulfide (MOSZ).

Gasket @ant is used instead of p n - f o n d gaskets between some engine mating surfaces. Two typs of gasket d t &re commonly usect: room temperature vul(RTV) and anaerobic. Since thes 2 materials have different sealing po e rws , thq cannot be used interchangeably.

This is a black silicone gel supplied i tubes n @lgjm 1) Moisture in the air causes RTV 5. AR'ere. Always place the cap on t e tube as h re possible when using RTV.RTV has a life o one year and will not eure f when the shelf life has expired. expiration date on RTV tubes using and keep partiaUy used tubes

Apply anaerobic sealant in a 1 m m or less (0.04 in.) bead to one sealing surface. Circle al mounting holes. Torque mating paits l within 15 minutes after application.
GALVANIC COaaOSION

A chemial d o n occurs whenever 2 diffemt types of metal are joined by an

electrical conductor and immersed in an electrolyte. Electrons trader from one metal to the other through the electrolyte and .returnthrough the conductor. The hardware on a boat is made of many d i f b s t types of metal. The boat hull acts as a conductor berween the metals; even if the hull is wood or fibaglass, the dighast 6lm of water within the hull provides conductivity. Water is an electrolyte. This combination creates a good environment for electron flow 17).Unfortunately, this electron flow results in galvanic corrosion of the metal involved. That is, one of the metals is corroded or eaten away by the process. The amount of electron flow (and therefore the amount of corrosion) depends on several factors: a. The types of metal involved. . b. The &ciency of the conductor. c. The strength of the electrolyte.
Metals The chemical composition of the metals used in marine equipment has a &nihUtt effect on the amount and speed of gal& corrosion. Certain metals are more -t to mrrosion than othets. negative metals are wmm "noble"; they act as t . cath eas reaction. Mtl which m more corrosion are em * ta l m Mi the anode in, 8 .qtac;lion, metals ind* titwtha 1

12

CHAPTER ONE

- Conductor

and nickel. Less noble metals include zinc,

aluminum and magnesium. Galvanic corrosion becomes more severe as the difference between the two metals increases. In some cases, galvanic corrosion can occur within a single piece of metal. Common brass is a mixture of zinc and c o r n when immersed in an electrolyte, the zinc portion of the mixture will corrode away as reaction occurs between the zinc and the copper particles. V ,

The hull of the boat often acts as the anductor between different types of metal. Marine equipment such as an outboard m t r or stem drive anit can also act as the oo hductor. Large masses of metal, firmly connected together, are more eiikient ' d u c t o m than water. Rubber mountings &W vinyl-based paint can a d as insulators pisces of metal.

Electrolyte The water in which a boat operates acts as the electrolyte for the galvanic cornsion process. The better a conductor the electrolyte is, the more severe and rapid the corrosion. Cold, clean fresh water is the poorest electrolyte. As water temperature increases, its conductivity increases. Pollutants will increase conductivity; brackish or salt water is also an efficient electrolyte. This is one of the reasom that most manufacturer8 recommend a fresh-water flush for marine equipment after operation in salt water.

PROTECTION FROM GALVANIC CORROSION Because of the environment in which marine equipment must operate, it is practically impossible to totally prevent

. There are several ways by

can be slowed; after taking the next step is to "fool"

oocuring only where you is the role of galvanic current systems.

pre~~utions help to can

the rest of the equipment that is still immersed. Also, such corrosion protection devices must not be painted, as that woulQ insulate them from the corrosion process. Any change in the boat's equipment (such as the installation of a new stainless steel propeller) will change the corrosion process. Keep in mind that when you add new equipment or change materials, you should review your corrosion protection system to be sum it is up to the job.

be protected.

k!au~e

can survive the loss of fastener were to corrode fhb equipment, major problems
Jpainted surfaces in good

is scraped off and bare

should not be

muJt be i m m m in

Anodes are usually made of zinc, a far from noble met& They are specially made lumps of metal designed to do nothing but wrrode. Properly fastening such pieces to the boatwiUcausethemtoactastheanodein m y galvanic reaction that occurs; any other metal present will act as the cathode and will not be damaged. Anodes must be used properly to be effective. Simply fastening lumps of zinc to your boat in random locations won't do the job. You must determine how much zinc surface area is required to adequately protect the equipment's surface area. A good starting point is provided by Military Speci6doa MIL-A-818001, which states that one square inch of new zinc anode will protect either: a. 800 square inches of freshly painted 'steel. b. 250 square inches of bare steel or bate aluminum alloy. c. 100 square inches of copper or copper alloy. This rule is for a boat at underway, more anode area is protect the same equi The zinc must be
grotecte&If-tbc

CHAPTER ONE
not e b b , the entire network of metal parts in the boat should be electrically tied together so that all pieces are protected Good quality anodes have inserts of some other metal around the fastener holes. O t h W , the zinc could erode away around he f-er. The anode can then become loose or even &dl06removing all protection. Military Specification Another (MILA-18001) defines the type of alloy preferred, which will corrode at a uniform rate without forming a crust which could reduce its e5ciency after a time.

An imprwssd cumnt system can be

on any boat that has a battery. The consists of an anode, a control box Theanodeinthissystemis r wlry noble m t l (such as ea Platiwmf a0 that it is alm& codon-free

requirements and the excellent protection it provides, the long-term cost may actually be lower.
PROPELLERS

to the anode. When

battery flows h m the anode to dl odha metal parts of the boat, no matter how noble or non-noble these parts are. This battery cumnt takes the place of any galvanic current flow. Only a very small amount of battery current is needed to counteract galvanic mmsion. Manufactums estimate that it would take 2 or 3 mznths of constant use to drain a typical marine battery, assuming the bmwy is never recharged. pressed current system is more to instdl than simple zinc anodes ' Qaadaains its low maintenance

The propeller is the iinal link between the boat's drive system and the water. A perfectly maintained engine and hull are useless if the phyeller is the wrong type or has been all& to deteriorate. Although propeller selectioo far a Specific situation is beyond the of thif book, the following information on propeller consttuction and design will allow you to discuss the subject intelligently with your marine dealer.
How a Propeller Works

As the curved blades of a propeller rotate through the water, a high-pressure area is created on one side of the blade and a low-pressure area exists on the other side of the blade (Figure 18). The propeller moves toward the low-pressure area, canying the boat with it.

opeller may be a 1-pieceunit,

E-aaldi&rentpartg(Fseare

m -

fntbbdesignofthe8eparta suitable for different

b;. .

. - .

& %I t&e ~ d g e the blade of

k ' h t fimt cuts through the

The cup is a small c w e or lip on the trailing edge of the blade. The hub is the central portion of the propeller. It connects the blades to the propeller shaft (part of the bat's drive system). On some drive systems, engine exhaust is routed through the hub; in ti hs case, the hub is made up of an outer and an inner portion, connected by ribs. . The diffuser ring is used on through-hub exhaust models to prevent exhaust gases from entering the blade area.

&, r h g normal rotation, h

ie the edge of the blade

Propeller Design Changes in length, angle, thickness and material of propeller parts make M i t propellers suitable for Merent situations,

Diameter

1 6

CHAPTER ONE

That i, it is tho diameter of the circle s B&S'by the blade tips during propeller &m mitre 20).

Pitch is expressed by the theoretical distance that the propeller would travel i n one revolution. In A, Figwe 22, the propeller would travel 10 inches in one revolution. In B, F i g m 22, the propeller would travel 20 inches in one revolution. This distance is only theoretical; during actual operation, the propeller mhieye4 about 80% of its ratsd travel.
q

23) or progressive
ailing",$ k the a$

hub (A, Figure 25) has 0 degree of &.'A blade that is angled from perpendicular tB, Figure 25) has a rake exp& by its difference from mndicular. Mord propellers have rakes ranging f o 0-UT, rm
k . ,

Made. ..2.
in' and i m s

BIadc thicknus Blade thichms is not .unifom at dl

,:tr;>

18

CHAPTER ONE

be as thin as posaible at all points while retaining enough strength to move the boat. Blades tend to be thicker where they meet the hub and thinner at the blade tip ( F i e 26). This is to support the heavier loads at the hub d o n of the blade. This thickness is dependent on the strength of the material

wed.

When cut along a line from the leading

edge to the trailing edge in the central portion of the blade (Figure 27), the propeller blade resembles an airplane wing. The blade face, where high pressure exists during normal rotation, is almost flat. The blade back, where low pressure exists during normal rotation, is curved, with the thinnest portions at the edges and the thickest portion at the center. Propellers that run only partially submerged, as in racing applications, may have a wedge-shaped cross-section (Figure 28). The leading edge is very W the blade , thickness increases toward the trailing edge, where it is the thickest. If a propeller such as ti is run totally submerged, it is very hs inefficient.

N d r o bladw f The number of blades used on a propeller is a compromise between e5dency and vibration. A one-bladed propeller would be ths m a efficient, but it would also create ot high levels of vibration. As blades are added, etfciiency decreases, but so do vibration h l s . M s propellen have 3 blades, ot w t h g the most practical trade-off $@weenefficiency and vibration.

materiala are chosen for strength,

&stance

and economy. Stainless and bronze are the most ma!d& Bronze is quite expensive. Stainless steel is

IrnRMATiON

because of its
but lack the

Cavitation and Ventilation

of

Cavitation and ventilation are not i n t e r c a b l e terms; they refer to 2 &tinct problems encountered during propeller To understand cavitation, you must 6rst understand the relationship between pressure and the boiling point of water. At sea level, water will boil at 212' F. As pressure increases, such as within an engine's closed cooling system, the boiling point of water increases-it w i l l boil only at some temperature higher than 2 12' F. The opposite isalsotrue;aspressuredecreases,waterwill boil at a temperature lower than 2 1 2 F If , pressure drops low enough, water will boll'+ typical ambient temperaof 50-607 R ' We have said that, during normal operation, low preesure exists on back. Normally, the presaum d m

-'

Ropellers are made for both right-hand left-hand rotation, although right-hand is most commonly used. When seen from

peller turns Eounterclockwise. you can tell the difference by angle of the blades (Fieme 29). propeller's blades slant from the
propeller's blades are the opposite.

; .

, <

20

C I U P l X R ONE

low enough for boiling to occur. However, poor blade design or selection or blade damage can cause an u n d preglure drop on a small area of the blade (Figme 30). BoilingcanoccurinthissmallareaAsthe water boils, air bubbles form. As t e boiling h water passes to a higher-pressure area of the blade, the boiling stops and the bubbles collapse. The collapsing bubbles release enough energy to erode the surface of the blade. ThisentirepxtXx.Sofpnssun~,boii and bubble collapse is c l e 'cavitation." ald The damage caused by the collapsing bubbles i c l e a "cavitation burn." It is important s ald to remember that cavitation is caused by a deaease in pressure, not an increase in temperature. Ventilation is not as complex a process as cavitation. Ventilation refers to air entering the blade area, either from above the surface of the water or fiom a through-hub exhaust qstcm As the blades meet the air, the propeller momentady over-revs, losing most is of its tbrust. An added com~licstion that as the propdla over-revs, pressurt on the blade back derxea#o a d massive cavitation occurs.

Most pieces of marine equipment have a plate above the propella a m de&ned to
keep surface air from entering the blades (Figure 31). T i plate is correctly c l e an hs ald "anti-ventilation plate," although you will often see it c l e an "anti-cavitation plate." ald Through-hub exhaust systems also have specianydesigmdhubstokeepexhaustgases from entering the blade area.

Chapter

Two

Tools and Techniques

describes the common tools equipment repairs and Techniques that will make more effective are also Some of the procedures in this require special skills or e x p d w in -you are better-off entrusting the *toa d&er m qualifiedlapccialist.
4.r
'

. s'h*~nrsr .*
professiod mechanics c&..i'orllib~'Mdnever suffer a skiow injury: ICyou fellow a f w rules of common sense and safety, you e too can enjoy many safe hours servicing your marine equipment. You can hurt yourself or damag@ equipment if you ignore these the

'.4 -

4. Use the proper size wrenches to avoid damage to fasteners and injury to yourself. 5. When loosening a tight or stuck fastener, think of what would happen if the wrench should slip. Protect yourself. 6. Keep your work area clean, uncluttered and well lighted. 7. Wear safety goggles during all operations involving drilling, grinding or the use of a cold chisel. 8. Never use worn tools. 9. Keep a Coast Guard approved tire extinguisher handy. Be sure it is rated for gasoline (Class B) and electrical (Class C)

6res.
BASIC HAND TOOLS

rules. 1. N v r use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. ee 2. Never smoke or use a torch near flammnhle liquids such as cleaning solvent. If you an working in your home garage, mmenhr that your h o w gas appliances have pilot lights. 3. Neua make or use a torch in an area whcn batkerb are being charged. Highly
explosive hydrogen gas is formed during the ohargingprocasg

A number of tools are required to maintain marine equipment. You may already have some of these tools for home or car tqmh. There are also tools made espeddy fat marine equipment repairs; these you have to purchase. In any case, a wide of quality tools will make repairs etwiq: more effective. 1 . fm Keep your tools clean and in a Keep them organized with t b
' 4

"23
M.
'
%.,

22

CHAPTER TWO

dated drives together, the open end and box p t - wrenches together, etc. After using a tool, wipe off dirt and grease with a clean cloth and place the tool in its correct place. The following tools are required to perform virtually any repair job. Each tool is de.scribed and the recommended size given for starting a tool collection. ~dditionaltools and some duplications may be added as you become more familiar with the equipment. l You may need a l English size tools, all metric size tools or a mixture of both.

I
Always keep the tip of a common screwdriver in good condition. Figure 3 shows how to grind the tip to the proper shape if it becomes damaged. Note the parallel sides of the tip.

Screwdrivers The screwdriver is a very basic tool, but if used improperly it will do more damage than good. The slot on a screw has a definite dimension and shape. A screwdriver must be selected to conform with that shape. Use a small screwdriver for small screws and a large one for large screws or the screw head will be damaged. Two types of screwdriver are reqa common (ht-blade) screwdriver (Figure 1) and Phillips screwdrivers (Figme 2). Scmvdrivers are available in sets which often include an assortment of common and F'hillips blades. If you buy them ihdividually, buy at least the following: a. Common screwdriver-5/16 X6 in. blade. b. Common screwdriver- 3/8 X 12 in. blade. c. Phillips screwdriver-size 2 tip, 6 in. blade. U e screwdrivers only for driving screws. s TJnter use a screwdriver for prying or Do not try to remove a Phillips or Allen head screw with a common W e r , you can damage the head so that the proper tool will be unable to remove it. Keep screwdriven in the proper condition and they will last longer and perform better.

Pliers
Pliers come in a wide range of types and sizes. Pliers are useful for cutting, bending and crimping. They should never be used to cut hardened objects or to turn bolts or nuts. Figure 4 shows several types of pliers. Each type of pliers has a specialized function. Gas pliers are general purpose pliers

AND TECHNIQUES

23

u
--

and are used mainly for holding things and for bending. Vise Grips are used as pliers or to hold objects very tight like a vise. Needlenose pliers are used to hold or bend small obiects. Channel lock vliers can be adjusted to hold various sizes of objects; the jaws remain parallel to grip around objects such as pipe or tubing. There are many more types of pliers. The ones described here are the most commonly used.
Box and Open-end Wrenches

Box and open-end wrenches are availa6le in sets or separately in a variety of sizes. See Figure 5 and Figure 6. The near the end refers to the di parallel flats on the hex head bolt Box wrenches are usually s open-end wrenches. An open-end grips the nut on only 2 flats. Unless it it may slip and round off the nut. The box wrench grips all 6-point and 12-point openings

CHAPTER TWO

wrenches are available. The 6-point gives

(Crescent) Wrenches

damage to the nut your knuckles. U e an s other wrenches

as an all-purpose wrench. is undoubtedly the fastest, safest

6-point or 12-point openings

and 1/4, 3/8 and 3/4 inch drives. The drive size indicates the size of the square hole which mates with the ratchet handle. Toque Wrench A torque wrench (Figure 9) is used with a socket to measure how tight a nut or bolt is installed. They come in a wide price range and with either 3/8 or 1/2 in. square drive. The drive size indicates the size of the square drive which mates with the socket. Purchase one that m a u e 0-140 N-m (1-100 A.-lb.). esrs

Impad Driver T i tool (Figure 10) makes removal of hs tight fasteners easy and eliminates damage to bolts and screw slots. Impact drivers and interchangeable bits are available at moot large hardware and auto parts stores.
Circlip Pliers Circlip pliers (sometimes referred ta a# snap-ring pliers) are necessary to remm circlips. See Figure 11. Circlip pliers come with several different size ti~w; designs can be switched from internal ,., ,, external type.

-)

a ,

26

CHAPTER TWO

m Elammu# 2

"

\-

SiLc mmxt hammer is necessary for U e only a hammer with a face (or s head) of rubber or plastic or the soft-faced type that is filled w t buck shot (Figure 12). ih Xhse are s m o necessary in engine teardowns. N v r use a metal-faced hammer ee as severe damage will result in most cases. You can always produce the same amount of force with a soft-faced hammer.
Feeler G8oge This tool has either flat or wire measuring & m m 3. Wire gauges are used to F 1) - a ( m a u e s b k plug gap; &atgauges are used esr for all other measurements. A non-magnetic (brass) gauge may be wedied when working around m a p a parts.

other Spechl T o ob
Some p d u r e s require special t o oh these are identified in the appropriate chapter. Unlem otherwise specilied, the part number used in this book to identify a special tool is the marhe equipment manmanufacturer's part number. Special tools can Usually be purchase4l through your marine equipment dqer. Some can be made locally by a machinist, often at a much lower price. You may find certain special tools at tool rental dealers. Don't use makeshift tools if you can't locate the wrmt special tool; you will probably cause more damage than good. * U 1

-*.5!.

TEST EQUIPMENT
This instrument @lgm14) is invaluable
for electrical system trouMeshmting and service. It combines a voltmeter, an ohmmeter and an ammeter into one unit, so it i often c l e a VOM. s ald

w
Tachometer/Dwell Mefer A portable tachometer is neasaary f r o tuning. See Figare 16. Ignition timing and carburetor adjustments must be performed nt the speci6ed idle speed. The best instrumat for this purpose is one with a low range d 0-1,000 or 0-2,000 rpm and a high range of 0-4,000 rpm. Extended range (0-6,000 or 0-8,000 rpm) instruments lack accmcy at lower speeds. The instrument should be capable of detecting changes of 25 rpm on t e h low range. A dwell meter is often combined with a tachomete~. Dwell meters are used with breaker point ignition systems to measure the amount of time the points remain closed during engine operation.

Compression Gauge

T i tool ( F i i 17) m a u e the amount hs esrs

of pressure present in the engine's combustion chamber during the c o m m o n stroke. This indicates general engine condition. Compression readings can be interpreted along with vacuum gauge readings to pinpoint specific engine mechanical problems. The easiest type to use has screw-in adaptors that fit into the spark plug holes. Press-in rubber-tipped types are also available.

htcument is necessary for dynamic (setting ignition timing while the knlnnias).Byfkshingalightatthe

Vacuum Gauge

The vacuum gauge (Figure 18) meaqm the intake manifold vacuum created b t b $ engine's intake stroke. Manifold and vqk&y problems can be identified by ' ra, ewhen combined wt ih gauge readings, other engine proWy&,b I . diagnosed. 51

28

CHAPTER TWO

Some vacuum gauges can also be used as fuel pressure gauges to trace fuel system problems.
Hydrometer Battery electrolyte specific gravity is measured with a hydrometer (Figure 19); this indicates the battery's state of charge. The best type has automatic temperature compensation; otherwise, you must calculate the compensation youself.
>

Recision Measuring T o s ol

Various tools are needed to make precision measurements. A dial indicator ( F i b e M), for example, is used to determine run-out of rotatinn arts and end D ~ Vof arts assemblies. A dial indicator can also be-used to precisely measure piston position in relation to top dead center, some engines require this measurement for ignition timing adjustment. Vernier calipers ( F i i 21) and micrometers (Figure 22) are other precision measuring tools used to determine the size of parts (such as piston diameter). Precision measuring equipment must be stored, handled and used c a r e q y or it will e not remain accurate.

- -

..

SERVICE HINTS Most of the service procedures covered in this manual are straightforward and can be performed by anyone reasonably handy with tools. It is suggested, however, that you consider your own skills and toolbox carefidly before attCmpting any operation involving major disassembly of the engine or

There are special cleaners, such as Gunk or Bel-Ray Degreaser, for washing the engine and related parts. Just spray or brush on tbt cleaning solution, let it stand, then rinse it away with a garden hose. Clean all oily or greasy parts with cleaning solvent as you remove them.
WARNING Newr uw gasoline as a cleaning agent. It presents an extreme fire hazard. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area when using cleaning solvent. Keep a Coast Gwd approved fire extinguisher, rated for gasoline fires, handy in any case.

Much of the labor charged for repairs made by dealers is for the removal and disassembly of other parts to reach the defective unit. It is frequently possible to perform the p r e w operations yourself and then take the defective unit in to the dealer for r p i . ear Once you have decided to tackle the job yourself, read the entire section in this manual which pertains to it, making sure you have identified the proper one. Study the illustrations and text until you have a good idan of what is involved in completing the job & wy j l. &d If spxhal tools or replacempar$a~rbq~-~entsto(ps( them before you start. It is frustrating and time-cammhg to get partly into a job and then be unable to complete it.
&AW

Jhr& dinsacmbly of prta keep a general precautions in mind. Form is needed to get things apart. If parts am a fit, such as a bearing in a case, a tool desigued to screwdriver to pry surfam (such as ~~~p~fasterandeasierifthe crank-). You wal '&&meat is c h before you begin work. end up with leaks.

than trying to do the job yourself with &.banhift equipment. Other procedures pracise measurements. U l s you nes and equipment required, it be better to have a quaWed repair the measurements for you.

Jkmwmbly Precautions
h
.
'

,A

CHAlPTER TWO
Make diagrams (or take an instant picture) whmver similar-appearhg parts are found. Far example, head and crankcase bolts are atten not the same length. You may think you can remember where everything came &om, but mistakes are costly. There is a s lo the possibility you may be sidetracked and not return'to work for days or even weeks, in which interval carefully laid out parts may have become disturbed. T g all similar internal parts for location a and mark all mating parts for position. Record number and thickness of any shims as they are removed. Small parts such as bolts can be identified by placing them in plastic sandwich bags. Scrl and label them with and marked as each wire is removed. Again, do not rely on memory alone. Protect 6nished surfaces from physical damage or corrosion. Keep gasoline off painted surfaces. Asaembly Precautions No parts, except those assembled with a pms fit, require unusual force during asmnbly. If a part is hard to remove or h&aU, find out why before procec?rding. Cover all openings after removing parts to keep dirt, small tools, etc., from falling in. Heavy grease can be used to hold small to fall out during assembly. However, keep grease and oil away fiom electrical components. High spots may be sanded off a piston with sandpaper, but fine emery cloth and oil will do a much more professional job. Carbon can be removed from the cylinder head, the piston crown and the exhaust port with a dull screwdriver. Do not scratch either surface. Wipe off the surface with a clean cloth when 6nished. The carbumtor is best cleaned by disassembhg it and soaking the parts in a commercial carburetor cleaner. Never soak gaskets and rubber parts in these cleanen. Never use wire to clean out jets and air w they are easily damaged. U e , s compressed air to blow out the carburetor a @ the float has been removed. Take your time and do the job right. Do not forget that a newly rebuilt engine must be broken in the same as a new one. U e the s break-in oil recommendations and follow other instructions given in your owner's
parts in place if they tend

manuaL

sure all shims ers are installed exactly as they

if there is any doubt about the old ones. Unlw , a thin coat of oil on them seal effectively.

SPECIAL. TIPS Because of the extreme demands placed on marine equipment, several points should be kept in mind when performing service and repair. The following items are general suggestions that may improve the overall life of the machine and help avoid costly failures. 1. Unless otherwise specified, use a locking compound such as Loctite Lock N' Seal No. 21 14 (blue Loctite) on all bolts and nuts, even if they are secured with lockwashers. This type of Loctite does not harden completely and allows easy removal of the bolt or nut. A screw or bolt lost from an engine cover or bearing retainer could easily cause serious and expensive damage before its loss is noticed.

is used, it can work its

and stick parts together proper1y it is cheap insurance. a hammer-driven impact tool to and install screws and bolts. T h e liclp pmvmt the rounding off of bolt szad screw slots and ensure a t& i

oil leaks. Authorized rephameat cut from material of the needed. InstaUation of a

equipment damage.

MECHANICS TECHNIQUES

When a fastener rusts and cannot be removed, several methods may be used to loosen i t F r t apply penetrating oil such as is, the fold-over type

""
*
the washer owef,
a 4 %
the

minutes. Rap the fastener several times with a small hammeq do not hit it hard enough to cause damage. Reapply the penetrating oil if For frozen screws, apply penetrating oil as described, then insert a screwdriver in the slot and rap the top of the screwdriver with a hammer. This loosens the rust so the screw screwdriver, grip the head with V s Grip ie pliers and tit the screw out. ws the temper from parts.

* the *

eer

Remedying Stripped Threads

Occasionally, threads carelessness or impact (for internal threads on external threads on Wts)

32

CHAPTER TWO

Removing Broken Screws or Bolts

When the head b d i b off a screw or bolt, several methods are available for removing the nmaining portion. portion of the remainder projects If a out, try grippiug it with V s Grips. If the ie projecting portion is too small, file it to fit a

wrench or cut a slot in it u nr a screwdriver, , See Figure 24. If the head breaks offflush, use a snew extractor. To do t i , centerpunch the hs remaining portion of the screw or bolt. Drill a small hole in the screw and tap the extractor into the hdc. Back the s r w out with a ce wrench an the extractor. See Figure 25.

I.

P.
7.
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.: 1

. fi.:.ll;*t'-.. .I *. < ~
1

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... ,

Chapter Three
.--$i
cr?
.I%-.

Troubleshooting
supply o fuel and air in the correct f propoaions, proper ignition at the right time dad adequate compression. If any of these are

re problems result from d o n s than from any other in mind before you blame

to make sure it has an

34

CHAETER THREE
The starting circuit on all outboards equipped with an electric starting system consists of the battery, an ignition or starter switch, an interlock switch, the starter motor or starter-generator and connecting wiring. On smaller displacement engines, electrical current is transmitted from the battery to the starter motor through a heavy-duty starter switch. See Figure 2. Depressing the starter switch completes the circuit between the battery and starter motor. Larger displacement engines use a solenoid or starter relay to wry the heavy electrical

starter motor (Figure 1). The motor is mounted vertically on the engine. When battery current is supplied to the starter motor, its pinion gear is thrust upward to engage the teeth on the engine flywheel. Once the engine starts, the pinion gear disengages f o the flywheel. This is similar to the rm method used in cranking an automotive engine. Autolechic models use a starter-generator assembly bracket-mounted above the flywheel. The annature shaft of the starter-generator connects directly to the cranlcshaR When battery current is supplied to the starter-generator, the armature shaft rotates the crankshaft to start the engine and continues rotating with the crankshaft to produce electrical c m n t . The electric starting system requires a fully charged battery to provide the large amount of current required to operate the starter motor or starter-generator. On models with an automotive-type starter, the battery may be charged externally or by a lighting coil on the alternator stator plate which keeps the battery charged while the engine is running. On Autolectric models, the starter-generator produces sufficient current to maintain a full battery charge.
I

starter switch or turning the

schematics of

,Fhebattery through the solenoid to

switch in aU starting M t s flow to the starter motor or if the shift mechanism is not

circuit on some models may Before troublesh make sure that:

,:i

>;mi.'

,'..,, , ,.,

.., . .

I' ;

36

cx3AmER THREE

WIRINO D I A @ R A M - l ~ 1 0 ( I 7 AUTOLECTRIC [ELECTRIC START)

c. AU electrical connections are clean and

& The wiring hamess is in good condition,

with no worn or frayed insulation. e. Battery cables are the proper size and length. Replace cables that are undersize or relocate the battery to shorten the distance between battery and starter solenoid. f. The fuel system is Wed with an adequate supply of h h gasoline that has been properly mixed with Chrysler/U.S. Marine Outboard Oil. See

engine being tested. One lead must be connected to ground ess othenvise specified. When
proceduns in this are intended only to isolate a to a c r a n component. If eti r h testing is then necessary, suspected component and have it an authorized & emtcr. It is expensive to just replace a faulty I ! t than to have it t s e and etd . iaepaired. Refer to Chapter Seven for mmponent removal and instaUation

1-

1-6 troubleshooting

w!

h t o l e d c Models R e to F i w 6 (9.2 hp), FIgme 7 (9.9 m 12.9 bp), F m 5 (1966-1967 20 hp) or d S (1968-on 20 hp) for this procedure.
1 &&*bstlight by connecting its leatds to . ,the 4negative battery termMs. fl'he light ghodtd come on. If it does not, check the teat leads for loose termids or ' ~ t h , ~ ~ b u l b .

2. Rotate engine tit grip to STOP p o s i h ws to close interlock switch. 3. Connect one test lead to a good engine ground. 4. Connect the other test lead to the input< side of the starter relay. If the lamp doe8 not light, the battery cable terminal connections are loose or there is an open in the cable between the battery and the starter relay. Tighten terminal connections or replace the] battery cable as requid. 5. Connect the test lead to the output side of the starter relay and turn the ignition switch to the START position. The light should come on and the starter should turn the engine over. If the light comes on but the engine does not turn over or turns over slowly, remove the starter and have it bench tested. 6. If the light does not come on in Step 5, connect the test light lead to the small terminal (yellow lead) of the starter d a y and turn the ignition switch to the START position. The light should not come on. If it does, the starter relay is defective. 7. Connect the test lead to the outer terminal of the interlock switch. The light should not aonne on. If it does, check the yellow win between the interlock switch and starter r a y for an open circuit or loose connections. 8. Connect the test lead to the inner termiQal of the interlock switch. If the light come replace the interlock switch. 9. Connect the test lead to the terminal of the ignition switch (yell See Figure 9. Turn the ignition START position. on. If it does, repair or between the ignition and required. 10. Connect the test lead to terminal of the ignition F i i 10. Turn the @i t START position, The light on.If it d o a m

38

CHAPTER THREE

NEO-

12 volt

27 AMP k. mh.

0.2 HP AUTOLECTmC

40

CHAPTER THREE

WlRlNQ DUORAM-IS60 (ELECTRIC START)

AND LATER

liOM

Clrcun bruker

models.

14. Connect the test lead to the choke terminal on the choke solenoid. T r the un ignition switch to the ON position and depress ignition key to activate the solenoid. If the light comes on, replace the choke solenoid. 15. Connect the test lead to the hoke (0 terminal on the ignition switch (gnen lead). See Figare 11.The light should not come on. If it does, repair or replace the lead betweem the ignition switch and choke solenoid. 16. If the light does not come on in Step 15 and the engine will not s a t replace the tr, ignition switch.
CAUTION The engine must be provided with an a a k p t e supply of warer while perfbrming Siep 17 and Srep 18. Install a flushing h i m , place the engine in a test tank or rwrform the steps with the boat in the water.
=,

ti

17. Connect a tachometer according to

manufacturefs instructiolw. Connect the t s et land to the gray lead of the voltage Start the engine and run until the test light comes on. Note the tachometer reading. T b light should come on below 3,700 rpm,If the light does not come on until engine spasd exceeds 3,700 rpm, shut the engins o f f d proceed with the next step. 18. Disconnect the blocking diode from the voltage &tor ignitim Disconnect the & frame lead from the voltage regulator

,I

42

CHAPTER THREE
depress the switch button. Ifthe light does not

20.Connect a volt-ammeter to the starter-generator according to manufachmr's iastructions. 21. T r the ignition key to the START un w o n and note the starter cumnt draw when the meter needle stabilizes. If the mading is 55-75 amps (9.2-15 hp) or 65-70 amps (20 hp), the problem is not in the starting circuit. If the reading is outside the speci6ed range,continue testing. 22. Remove the spark plugs Shift engine into NEUTRAL. 23. Connect a tachometer according to manufacturer's iastructiom. 24. RepeatStep21.Theengineshouldcrank at 700-900 rpm with a current draw of approximately 40 amps. If it does not, refer to

come on, check the gear shift linkage adjustment. See Chapter Nine. If adjustment is comet, replace the interlock switch. 6. Connect the test lead to the starter motor terminal(5, Figure 12) and depress the starter switch button. The test lamp should not light. Ifit does, replace the starter. 7. Ifthe test lamp does not light in Step 6 and the engine still does not s a t r p i or tr, e a r replace the starter to interlock switch lead as
requirad

AUOtbers (With Starter Solenoid or Relay) Refer to Figure 13 (typical) for this

T b e 2. al
AU other8
( W i i Shrtu Solemid o Relay) r

e m .

Refer to F i e 12 for this procedure. I. Place the engine in NEUTRAL and connect one test light lead to a good engine
ground. 2. Connect the othw lead to the starter switch input termid (I, Fignre 12). The test

light should come on. If the lamp does not light or is very dim, the battery cable terminal connectiomarelooseorthemisanopenin

thecablebctweenthebatteryandtheignitim switch. T i terminal ccmnectionS o r

replacethebettaycabkasrc~~ 3. Connect the test lead to the starter switch output terminal (2, Figure 12) and depress the

switch button. If the light does not come on, replace the starter switch. 4.ConaectthetsPtleadtotheintniock switcb input M(3, Figure 12) and depms the switch button. Ifthe light doe not comeon,~orreplacethewirebetwam the interlock and ignition switches. 5. Connect the test lead to the interlock switch output terminal (4, Figure 12) and

CHAPTER THREE
1. Place the engine in NEUTRAL and connect one test light lead to a good engine ground. 2 Connect the other lead to the starter relay . input terminal ( ,F i e 13). The test light 2 should come on. If the lamp does not light or is very dim, the battery cable terminal connections are loose or there is an open in the cable between the battery and the starter relay. Tighten terminal co~ections or replace the battery cable as required. 3. Connect the test lead to the circuit breaker input terminal (3, F i i 13). If the light does ear not come on, r p i or replace the wire between the starter relay and circuit breaker as required.
NOTE Ijthe circuit breaker reset button pops out when depressed in Step 4, the circuit breaker is not defective. There is a short in the starting circuit that m s be ut located and corrected.

4. Connect the test lead to the circuit breaker output terminal (4, Fignre 13). If the light does not come on, depress the reset button. If the light still does not come on, replace the circuit breaker. 5. Connect the test lead to the red wire terminal on the terminal block (5, Pigwe 13), if so equipped. If the light does not come on, repair or replace the wire between the circuit breaker and terminal block as required. 6. Connect the test lead to the red wire terminal on the accessory block (6, F i 13), if so equipped. If the light does not come on, repair or replace the red lead in the remote cable as required. 7. Connect the test lead to the battery (B) terminal on the ignitim switch (7, Figme 13). If the light does not come on, repair or replace the red wire between the ignition switch and accessory block (if so equipped) or ignition switch and circuit breaker as rq e*

8. Connect the test lead to the start (S) tenninal on the ignition switch (8, F i e 13). If the light does not come on, check for an open or short in the yellow wire from the ignition switch to the starter relay. If the wiring is good, replace the ignition switch.
NOTE The ignition switch must be in the START position during Steps 9-15.

9 Connect the test lead to the yellow wire . terminal of the accessory block ( ,Figure 13), 9 if so equipped. If the light does not come on, repair or replace the yellow wire betwoen the
ignition switch and accessory block. 10. Connect the test lead to the yellow wire terminal of the terminal block (10, Figure 13), if so equipped. If the light does not come on, repair or replace the yellow w&e in the remote cable as required. 11. Connect the test lcad to the interlock switch terminal (11, Figure 13). If the light does not come on, repair or replace the yellow lead ~ W I the interlock and H WI ignition switohes (models with a terminal block) or the red lead between the i n M

sp&h

and battery (models without a

terminal and case. If the meter does not read

0.5-1.35 ohms, replace the solenoid.
W G I N G SYSTEM Four types of charging systems are used on Chrysler/Force outboards. An AC lighting system or DC battery charging system may be fte to 3.5-7.5 hp models. A more itd sophisticated alternator charging system is used on 9.9 hp and larger engines. Autolecbic models use a starter-generator.

'a.Connect the test lead to the interlock

wt come on, replace the switch.

ltgminal block).

@ch t e d m l (12, Figure 13). If the light lses not come on, manually depress the M o c k switch plunger. If the light still does

13. Connect the test lead to the starter relay yellow lead tenninal (models with a tenninal

'block)or red lead terminal (models without a terminal block). Ifthe light does not come on,
or replace the lead between the starter d a y and interlock switch as required. 94. Connect the test lead to the starter hy-to-starter terminal (14, Figure 13). If & li&t does not come on, replace the starter
rJ. Connect the test lead to the starter motor

AC LIGHTING SYSTEM
The AC lighting system consists of an altemator stator and flywheel (Figwe 14). The system provides alternating current to operate accessories such as boat lights only when the engine is rumhg. Poor connections, defective wiring insulation or the use of too many accessories are major causes of AC lighting system problems.

9"

E
!

b t i v e terminal (15, F i e 13). The light %uld not come on. If it does, replace the
.. ,-,
i.,

NOTE The ignition switch murt be depressed and held in the CHORE oositwn for the remaining steps.

1b. Connect the test lead to ;Ianninal on the ignition switchthe choke (C) (green wire). If

) the

light does not come on, repla& the ignition switch. '17. Connect the test lead to the green wire I , pmid on the acmssory block, if so lapuipped. If the light does not Gome on, ,Pel#lir or replace the green wire between the wceasory block and ignition switch. 18. Connect the test lead to the green wire terminal on the terminal block, if so equipped. If the light does not come on, EGpair o nplaoe the green& r in the m t o e ,cable aslequired. 19. Ccmmt the test lead to the choke 'solenoid tsminal. If the light corm on, diaooonect the q a t i v e battery cable and lhonnect an ahmmeta between the solenoid

I
;

1. JXsmnnect the male and female power supply plugs at the engine. 2. Carefully inspect all wiring for worn or cracked insulation and corroded or loose cannectio1~9.Replace wiring or clean and tighten connections as required.
NOTE Do not connect test lamp in series with any lights or accessories as they will drain the test lamp batteries.

3. U e a self-powered test lamp to c s length of wiring in the circuit connection points. If the test lamp light when connected into the that 'section o wiring. f 4. When the entire circuit has start the engine and lights and work, shut the mgbe OK

lamp leads to the female power supply plug at the engine. The test lamp should Iight. 5. I the test lamp does not light in Step 4, f d k c o ~ e cthe stator led splice and remove t t the female plug at the engine. C o ~ e c the ts lamp leads batwgenthe stator lea& If the et test lamp lights, om or both splices were defective. If the t s lamp does not light, et connect an ohmmeter between the stator leads. If the meter does not read aproximately one ohm, the stator leads are open or go r6. If the ohmmeter reads one ohm in Step 5 but the lighting system still does not function properly, conuect a tachometer according to m a n ~ r '~ o n s . s
CAUTION
The engine mutt be provided with an adewate supply of water while perfming Step 7. Install a Jhshing device, pplnaP the engine in a test tank w Pprfwm the step with the boat in the
water.

ammeter reading as enginei apeed is gradually increased to approximately 4,500 rpm. The stator should start to function at a cut-in speed of approximately 1,000 rpm, delivering a minimum output of 1 amp at 2,000 rpm and 3.5 amps at 4,000 rpm. If it daes not meet these W c a t i o n s , replace the stator.

Dc B A r n R Y
CHARGING SYSFEM

7. Connect an AC ammeter between the stator leads. Start the engine and note the

M d l equipped with an AC l g t n oes ihig system may be converted to a DC battery c h w b Bystem by insEalling Battery Charging Kit part No. 5H091 (3.5-4 hp) or part No. 5H105 (6-7.5 hp). Thie incorporates a d e r to convert the AC lighting cumnt to DC battery charging current. 00 3.5-4 hp models,therectifierandbracketasiemblyis installed on the fuel tank leg and grounded to the cylinder head. On 6-75 hp m d l ,the oes rectifier and bracket assembly is instded at the top of the cylinder bead and grounded to the exhaust cover as shown in Flgm 15.

6. C ~ I I &

pn

kc

metsr

s m i d s . start t a

the mgt?le

sQrne*dmeJtlrrmpryYhmy mwYepdarUVNlrriel,sviUrtgba&

.-

I$

nsudrPinSkps7-10.~fhemul~~rrsultr! . f h e ~ q f t h a a ~ r q e a t ~

~~WithihrmfarrciPmarsrd

3.

B than a clitha of the A t

discannaet the stator la at e&

meter

doas'not rerrd

9. Move the red test I&

t tamW B o .

10. Rapeat Step 9 with the test light leads mveadThelightshouklcomeoa. 1I.Replace the rectifier if it does not perform as indicated in Steps 7-10.
ALTERNATOR CHARGING SYSTEM

The charging system consists of the alternator stator coils, pamanmt magnets located within the flywheel, a d e r (Prestolite) or ~ - r & i & (Motorola) to t ~attanatiagcurrmttodirectcumnt, the &a& breaker, battery and connecting wiring.SeeFIgme17. A maVuaction in the alternator charging system generally causes the battery to remain undercbargad Since the alternator stator is protected by its location underneath the flywheel, it is more likely that the battery, rectifier, circuit breaker or cormecting wiring will cause problana The followhg coditions wiU cause d e r damage: a Battery l a l reversed. eus b. Running the engine with the battery
leads-

c. A broken wire or loose conmction resulting in an open circuit.

3 Check battery wndition. Clean and . mllargeasxq* 4 Checkwiriogharncssbetwemthestator . and battery for damaged or detwimted insulation and corroded, loose or d i s c Q n n u a og Repair, tighten or & l l replaceasxquired.
Troublesh~ (1966-1979 3 M Iip)
CArnON The engine must be p r d with an adoqwe supply o wmcr whik m f i & during this p d u i e . I n d l aflusMng &vice. plOOe the engine in a &st tank w prrfwm the pravrkm with the boat in the water.

Before troubleshooting the alternator charging system, visually check the following. 1. Make sure the red cable is camectd to thepositivebatterytcrmiMLIfp0larityis mersed,checkforadamagedrectifier.
A dmnagnl

discohred
UppeaMnCe.

NOTE will grncmNy be or have a burned

2. Check for corroded or loose colmeaiions Ckan, tighten and insulate w t liquid ih

1. Connect a Whometer ~ccordhg to manufactura's kmtndons. 2. Start the a g k and run at 1,000-1,100 rpm.

disconnect one of the battery cient current to operate the

each of the 3 rectifier input

ON position. Connect the test

replace the red wire between the and the circuit W e r . 4. If the lamp lights at any of , replace the rectifier.

OlUTION The engine mwt be provided with an m e suppiy dwater while running during this procedure. InstalI ajkdftg device, place the engine in a tart tank or

1. C o ~ e c t a tachometer according to p W s M 0 n s . I % Start the engine. Connect a 10-amp ) @inmeterbetween the positive battery cable rad positive battery terminal p s . ot 8. Connect a voltmeter between the circuit bmkr and ground. Note the ammeter and voltmeter readings #ee4jnespeedisgdudyincr&to #ggm&aWy 4,500 rpm: *. a llq etator should start to function at a of approaimately 800 rpm, minimum output of 7 amps

5. If the stator cut-in speed or output is not as spxified in Step 4, continue te48$gt Replace the voltage regulator if it does not maintain the operational voltage specified in se 4. tp 6. Shut the engine off and d i w ~ e c t the stator leads at the rectifier terminals. Connect a self-powered test lamp between the stator leads. If the lamp does not light, replace the stator. 7. Mark the remaining red and purple leada and the terminals to which they are connected for correct reinstallation and disconnect the leads. 8. Connect the black test lamp lead to the red lead terminal and probe each of the remaining terminals with the red test lead. The lamp should light at each terminal. 9. Repeat Step 8 with the test leads reversad The lamp should not light at any terminal. 10. M v the rwS test lead to the reotifiar oe ground terminal o mounting stud. Prabc r each of the rectifier stator terminals with the black test lead. The lamp should light at each terminal. 11. Replace the rectifier if it does not ~erformas sueci!ied in Stem 7-10. If the &er is go&, recomect all leads to their
proper-.

4
I

a.

Tronble8hooting (1980-011 20-140 hp) 1. Disconnect the negative battery cablc. 2. Caremy insgect all wiring f 0 r m . p m k e d insulation and corroded DR ~ e c t i 0 n S .Replace wiring or chq.j## tighten co~ections requind . > < . : > , I as
DO

should maintain of 14-15 volts, . volts. 5

NOTE not connect tes~ latnp h any lights or a c d as drain the test lan)~-imw&~..;

3. Use length

comectbn points. If the test lamp does not light when comected into the circuit, replace that section of wiring. 4. Comect a tachometer according to
man~sinstructians,

ke~lace stator if it does not meet the the

5. Connect an ammeter between the positive

battery terminal and the accessory feed win.

See Pigme 18.Recomect the negative battery

cable.
CAUTlON The engine muu be provided with an
adequate supply o wotsr ,while f pe~orming 3ep 6 and SXep 7. I d 1 a jlwhing dotice, pplace the engine in a tert tank or perform the steps with the boat in the water.

S&citicatim. 8. Shut the engine OK h m e c t t e h greedyellow stator leads at the d m . Connect an ohmmeter between the stator leads and compare the reading to Table 5. Replace the stator if the reading is not within ~ t i o n s . 9. Perform the d e r test as described in this chapter. If the rectifier is satisfactory, perform the circuit breaker test as described in this chapter.

Reetffier Test (Square Design)

6. Start the motor and turn on all accessoria Note the ammeter reading and compare to the maximum current draw provided in Table 5. If current draw exceeds the speciiied amperage,reduce the number of accessories used with the chargiag system. 7. With the engine 'Rmnin& a n c the met ammeter between the positive battgy cable and terminal. See &gum 19. Note the ammeter and tachometer readiqp as engine speed is padually increased to approximately 4,500 rpm.Compare the readings to Table 5.

I. Dismnnectallrectifierleads. 2. Connect a s e l f - p o d test lamp betw#n the negative terminal and one AC&nninal u showninFigIlrern,thenmow~-~ktsrit lead to the other AC t e r d d . Thc tig[a should glow W t l y a erWIj k m h l . t 3. Move the black taat &Id to the &H (+) terminal. The light dmdd glow dimly. 4. M o v e t h e r a d ~ ~ b t h e ~ ( f terminal. CamxM&cMack ast lead t aa, o rectifier k f i : then to the otbw &t! ~ ~ ~ ~ t ' & O d d n o t c o .- s & m

'1,

1 ComecttheblaoktestLeadtothe~w . (-)tmhaI. ConoacttlteredtestMbom ~ k c ~ t f i c ~ t o t l l e ~ k ? ,-

~Thstightshouldadt.comeonat either tenmioal. &~ & & @ ~ i f i $ d ~ as i -: n 2.5.

2. Caanectad--test

Reguhtor/Redhr Test
CAUTION The engine must be prmidal wi!h an dwing this prooerlivc I@ the water.
adeqtrPIcsypprvd-~RQn*rg

a/huhing

&ice, pface the engine in a lest tank w perform the procedure with the b a t in

1.Conmct tachometer according to manhtmctions. 2. Dhmmct the redlwhite lead at the battery side of the starter solenoid or relay. 3. Connect the disconnected wire and terminal with a jumper lead to start the

easine.

4. Start the engine and run at idk. Remove the jumper lead installed in Step 3.
NOTE
ChryJlerN.S. Marine srrvice replacement mpacitorpati N a 101030 nray be used in Step 5.

5. Connect a voltmeter and 500 microfarad capacitor to the disconnected red/wire and ground as shown in Flgme 22. 6. Increase engine speed to appmxhately 4,000 rpm and note the v ~ h ~ ~ e t e r If less than 13.5 volts or greater than 17.5 volts, nplace the regulator/redfier.

cmrent to operate the engine and cherge the battay. Tronbleehootb~g

CAUTION The ennine nnut be D ~ with an W 'ldeq&&&~while p e r f m h g this pmcedurc. Install a Jlushing device, place the engine in a test tank orpet$onn the procedure with the b a in the water. ot

1. Dqmsthecircuitbreakerresetbutton. 2. Conaed a test lamp between the circuit breaker Wmipak Replaa the circuit breaker ifthelampdocgnotlight

AUH&WlRIC MODELS A combined &Wmpm&w is bracketmounted above the f l m on kutolectric 9 . 2 - 2 0 b f , m . Theatmatcaaalfllltoftbe starter-gcmmm i in amslant ararprmnt s withtheeqgiaseranlrahatt. A s t b e t ~ ~ s h s f t s
rotate,the~provi&adplchial

Refe~ to 6 (9.2 hp), 7 (. 99 aad 12.9 h) p, 5 (1966-1967 20 hp) Or Fgm8 (1968-011 20 hp) for this prowdun. 1. Connect an a m t r and Cachomttsr mee according t m n8 o ainsttuctiona 2. Start the engine and slowly amhate d the ammeter reads one ampere. Note tacbmeterresdirPgThegeneratorshouhlOUt in at a spead bslow 3,700 rpm.

widbopen thmttle. The

a miuimum of 6 amps of and connect one lead f

tha d h ? C D l U l d & and

there i no meiw s

I G r n Q N SY
WiriOg~Pssdbehrrsaltbc

snitohaadrmgincis~to

CHAPTER THREE

NOTE
To t e ~ r the wiring homes for poor solder connertwm in Step I, bend the molded rubber connector while checking each wire for resirtonee.

1. Check the wiring harness and all plug-in connectim to make sure that al kxminals l

are free of corrosion, all connectors are tight and the wiring insulation is in good
colUlition. 2. Check all electrical components that are grounded to the engine for a good ground codon. 3. Make sure that all ground wins are properly connected and that the connectiom are clean and tight. 4. Check m m a h k of the wiring for disc011~1ected wins and short or open circuits. 5. Make sure there is an adequate supply of fresh and properly mixed firel available to the engine. 6. If the engine is to be operated dthe test procedure, make sure that sufficient water is provided for proper oooling to avoid power head or gearcase damage. Use a flush device, place the engiue in a test tank or perform the procedure with the boat in the water. 7. Check the battery condition. Clean terminals and battery, if necessary. 8. Check spark plug cable routing. Make sure the cables are properly connected to their l=mctive sparL P* I. 9. Keep all spark plugs in the order of their removal. Check the condition of each plug. See Chapter Four.

I
I
I I

a. Flywheel. b. Stator plate. c. Throttle cam. d Breaker point set(s). e. Condenser(s). f. Coil(s).
A typical magneto ignition system is s m h inFsgme23. Coils and eondmsers can only be ta&d with a suitable ignition analyzer. Chryaa/ U S Maine recommends the use of a ..
&

s w PWS).

t.
E

MAGNETO IGNITION SYSTEM A magneto ignition system g - d ~

~7~~

4. If a good spark is not produced at eaeh cylinder in Steps 1-3, disconnect the luds from the ignition stop or "kill" switch and repeat Step 1. If a good spark is prod& w t the switch out of the circuit, replace t ih b

'i

switch,
5. If the spark is still not satisfactory, remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. Check t k W e r point condition and gap. Replace or adjust the points as required. See Chaptst

Four.
6, Remove the condenser(s) from the stator plate. Remove the coil(s) from the stator plate or power head. See Chapter Seven. 7. Test the condem&s) and coil(s) as described in this chapter. Condenser Capacity and Leakage Test 1. Plug the Merc-0-Tronic analyzer into an AC outlet and set the selector knob on position 4. Clip the analyzer ts l d et together, depress the red button and rotate the meter set knob to align the meter neadk with the SET line on the meter scale. Relthe red button and unclip the test leads. 2. Connect the small red test lead to .condenser lead and the small black ts et to the condenser body. See Figure 25. 3. Depress the red button and note thc reading on the CONDENSER CAPACITY scale. If the reading is not w W b s&cations (Table 6), replace the condenser. If the reading is withi0 specifications, tum the selector IKQOQ QFE and continue testing. Figme 25, turn the seledor note the mete move all the

Merc-0-Tronic analyzer. This test equipment is available through any marine dealer and comes complete with btrudions and test spedications.

1. Install a spark tester (Figme 24) between the plug wire and a good ground to check for spark at each cylinder. If a spark tester is not available, remove each spark plug and iwmmect the proper plug cable to one plug. Lay the plug against the cylinda head so its base makes a good connection and turn the engine over. T e e should be a bright blue hr Iqllwkateachcy*. 2. If there is no spark or only a weak , yehtisb or red spark * t p 1, check for Se ons at the coil and battery and loom I corrmesnquind. ) 3 . Regeat-1 witheachremainingplugif Iasparktatezianotused. Ifthe connections -4tmmLL~ue Sesring.

a
L .

"

56

CHAPTER THREE

T r the selector knob OFF, un disconnect the ts leads and continue t d n g et 6. Set the selector knob to position 6 and =peat Step 1 to align the m@r needle. 7. Repeat Step 2, then note the meter d e movement. Replace the condenser if the needle m v s outside the green ama at the right ofthe oe CONDENSER SERIES RESISTANCE scale. 8. D i i the test leads and onplug the
return.

analyzer.

Coil Test Seqmnoe

WilRNING
Pe&m

this red on a wrooden or indated workbench to prewnt leakage or shock hazardF.

1. Plug the Memo-Tronic analyza i t an no AC outlet. Connect the Mleads as shown in Figure260r~Z7. 2. With the current control lolob mLO, twn taesekctorlolobtoposition 1. 3. gouly rotate the current colltrol lolob clotkwk utl the meter needle nads 1.0 ni (externalcoil) o 1.5 (stator-mounted coil) on r the COIL POWER TEST scale. If the spark gapisfiringunif~atthispoint,theooilis good. Rotate the mmmt control knob back toLOandturnthe~kwbDFF. 4. Withtheanalyzertestkadscannectedas shownin~26or~27,turnthe wkdor knob to position 1.
CAUTION
CompkreJYcp5asquicWyas~k

to pman) Mer o coil domage. r

5. R o t a t e t h e a e r r e h ~ l k n o b d ~ untilthemetsr~~fullscslc.Ifthe sparkgapisfiriae~atthispoiat,the ooilisgood.Rotate*ennraaScontrOlknob

backtoLOandtwnthe~lmobOFE 6. D i s c o n n e c t t h e ~ r e d t c s t k r d ~ t h e coil and plug the teat probe i t the .aaEyzer no

jack.

58

CHAPTER THREE

meter set knob to align the meter needle with the SET line on the meter scale and unclip the test leads. 11. Connect the red test lead to the spark plog lead. Connect the black test lead to either primary terminal. See Figure 31 or Figrve 32. Note the meter reading on the COIL CONTINUITY scale and compare to the secondary resistance qxcif~cations (Table 7). Replace the coil if the reading is not within specifications. Turn the selector knob OFF and disconnect the test leads.

BA'ITERY IGNITION SYSTEM

A battery ignition system may use a magneto breaker plate and cam located under the flywheel or a distributor mounted on the power head and belt-driven by the crankshaft. In addition, the system contains the following components: a. Breaker points. b. Condensers. c. Coils. d. Spark plugs. Coils and condensers can only be tested with a suitable ignition anal&. Chrysler/ U S Marine recommends the use of a .. Merc-0-Tronic analyzer. This test equipment is available through any marine dealer and comes complete with MOIU and test SpecificatioIU.
Troubleshooting The following procedures are performed 2-volt test Gmp and require a M y battery with properly connected that are in good condition. It is that all engine w r n and remote iig haems wiring is connected and

Battery to coil test The ignition switch must be in the ON position with the engine not running (avoid leaving the switch in the ON position for prolonged periods). If the 12-volt test lamp does not light during one step, proceed to the next one. A dim light at any point in the procedure indicates a poor or shorted connection. 1. Connect one lead of the test lamp to a good engine ground. Probe the positive (+) terminal of each coil with-the other test lead. If the test lamp lights at each coil positive terminal, the ignition circuit is satisfactory between the batterv and coils. 2. If the test lam1; does not light at one or more coils in Step 1, move the test lead probe to the terminal block blue connector. If the lamp lights, repair or replace the blue wire between the terminal block and coils as
r e q a

3. Move the test lead probe to the ignition switch I terminal. If the lamp lights, repair or replace the blue wire in the remote cable
hamess.

I
i

4. Move the test lead probe to the ignition Switch B terminal. If the lamp lights, replace the ignition switch. If the lamp does not light, look for an open circuit in the wiring between
the ignition switch and battery.
Coil and wndcnser to
point test
h

bw&r

The ignition switch m s be in the ON ut position with the engine not running (avoid leaving the switch in the ON position for prolonged periods). If the 12-volt ts lamp et does not light during one step, proceed to the next one. A dim light at any point in the procedure indicates a poor or shorted connection. 1. Remove the spark plugs to prevent the engine from starting. See Chapter Four. 2. Cannect one lead of the fs light to a good et engine gmuci R O ~ C the nqptive (-1 tcrmiaalofthkcoilwiththeothertestlead.If thebeepkerpdntsare closed, the test light will not wnw om. If the breaker points are open, the light will come on.

3. Rotate the flywheel 360 degrees d q r a a the test light. It should come on for 9R degrees and remain off for 270 degrees. 4. If the test light remains on during the 36@ degree rotation, there is an open c h i t caused by: a Breaker points M a t e d or not ddug b. A defective lead wire between the coil and breaker points. 5. Ifthe test light remains off during the 360 degree rotation, there is a closed or s h o w circuit. Proceed as follows: a. Rotate the flywheel u t l one set of ni breaker points is open. b. Disconnect the breaker point lead at thk negative (-) terminal of the coil. If the test light now shows current at the negative (-) terminal of the coil, either the lead wire or the breaker point set ia shorted. c. If the test lamp does not -1 disconnect the condenser lead wire. If the test lamp lights, the condenser ia shorted. 6. Repeat Step 5 to ts the other b d w et point set and coil. 7. No. 1 cylinder only-Discomect the tachometer lead wire (white) from the No, 1. coil negative (-) terminal. If the test l& i c m s on when the terminal is probed, & m oe e is a short in the tachometer or tach* cirmit. 8. Reinstall the spark plugs. See Four. t-,.E
a

--

-,

; ;

I jl

Ignition circuit test (engine running)

,
. ..
I

,.,

i'j,:i!.:d

CAUTION

CHAPTER THREE
This test is useful in locating a misfiring or dead cylinder. 1. Conn& a tachometer according to manufacturer's instructions. 2. Start the engine and run at 800- 1,000 rpm in NEUTRAL. 3. Connect one test light probe to a good engine ground. Connect the other probe to the negative (-) terminal of the coil. The test light should flicker on and off as the breaker points open and close. If the test light remains on or off, shut the engine off and perform the Coil and Condenser to Breaker Point Test in this chapter. 4. If the test light flickers in Step 3 as it should and there is no loss of engine rpm, the primary side of the ignition circuit is satisfactory. Continue testing to locate the problem in the secondary circuit. 5. Shut the engine of. Remove the spark plugs (Chapter Four), reconnect the plug w r s to the plugs and ground the plugs to the ie cylinder head. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON and crank the f engine. I the plugs do not fire with a bright blue spark, check the spark plug wire and its connection to the coil and spark plug. If the wire and its connections are good, t s the coil et as descxibed in this chapter. I
Condenser Capacity and Leakage Test Test the condenser(s) as described for magneto ignition systems in this chapter. Coil Test Sequence
Test the coils as described for magneto ignition systems in this chapter. Seventies. Through the 1979 model year, they carried various trade names-Magnapower or Magnapower I, Magnapower Electronic, Magnapower II, Magnapower III, etc.according to system design and m d l usage. oe From 1980-on,al are ref& l to under the collective heading of "CD ignition." While all Magnapower I ignitions (except the Magnapower Electronic) function essentially the same, there are several design variations because Delta, Prestolite and Motorola each produced the basic Magnapower or CD ignition used by Chrysler Marine. For example, 70- 135 hp engines may be equipped with either a Delta, Motorola, Motorola 2, Motorola Electronic Magnapower or CD ignition without regard for year or model. Therefore, component shape, size, location and, in some cases, w r n andlor iig function differ according to the manufacturer. Although outboards fitted with a Magnapower ignition were shipped from the factory with a Magnapower decal on the power head, the decal did not always identify the ignition manufacturer and may have become damaged or lost. To help in determining which Magnapower I system is used on a particular 70-135 hp engine, compare the part No. on the CD unit with the listing below: a. Delta-part Nos. A 321301, A 321301-1 or A 321301-2. b. Motorola-part Nos. 404301 or 404301-1. c. Motorola 2 or Electronic-part Nos. 404301-2, 404301-3, 523301 or 523301-1. Since 1979, one CD unit (part No. A 523301-1) has been used as a replacement for all Magnapower I ignitions. If the original CD unit has been replaced, it probably carries this part number and will not help you to identify ytm the s s e .

CD IGNH'ION SYSTEM
A wide variety of CD (capacitor discharge) ignition systems have been used on Chrysler/Force engines since the early

thisreason,thewiringdiagramsatthe f the book should be consulted before the troubleshooting procedures in this chapter if you are uncertain Magnapower ignition system is usad motor. Select the appropriate wiring according to engine size and ent design and use it to locate exact

AU Magnapower and CD ignitions require of a Chrysler/U.S. Marine CD Tester

Chrysler/U.S. Marine Iguition Tester 996 and Plug Adapter T11201 or T11237.
1

. In addition, some also requirethe use

!
I

I
'

DELTA AND MOTOROLA MAGNAPOWER I (19741979) AND CD IGNITION (198M)N)

repairorreplacethewiringtetweenths terminal block and ignition switch. 6. Move the twt probe to the ignition switch B terminaL If the lamp lights, replace the switch. 7. Move the test probe to the ignition switch I terminal. If the lamp does not light, replace the switch. 8. Move the test probe to the terminal block blue wire termid. If the lamp does not light, repair or replace the wiring between the terminal block and ignition switch. 9. Move the test probe to the distributor blue terminal. The test lamp should not light. If it does, perform Step 10 and then move to Step 14. 10. Diswnnect the blue wire from the terminal block to prevent the engine from starting.
CAUTION Make ae the tesier CD IN lead does r not contact any metal, as it i live once s the 2 leads are connected in Step 11.

This procedure will troubleshoot the Delta, Won,Ia, Motorola 2, Motorola Electronic CD ignitions on 70-135 hp engines. 11. T r the ignition switch ON and connect un :lc 12-volt test lamp between the taminal b ' W kblue wire terminal and a good engine I ,pond. If the test lamp does not I&&$ the ' problem is between the terminal block and ignition switch. M v the test lamp probe to the starter oe s , : b y bput terminal. If the lamp dbes not '~npairorreplacethewiringhtwmthe ib@my starter relay. and 8. Move the test lamp to the circuit breaker ,input terminsl. If the lamp does not light, 'tapair o replace thc wiring between the r &mit Brsnkei and starter d a y . 4. Move '&retest lamp to the circuit breaker butput tern&@. If the lamp d m not light, the m e t button. If the lamp still does $hecircuit breaker. to the terminal black &the lamp dbes not light

/E .

;r
a

11. Connect the BATT N lead of t&@r T8953 to a good engine ground. Connect thc tester BATT P lead to the starter relay. See F i i 33. 12. Rotate the tester voltags knob clockwise as far as possible. If the tmkr does not show at least 12 volts, recharge or replace the' battery as required. 13. Crank the engine and note the td9t6t reading. If less than 9 volts, test t e startw. h circuit as described in this chapter befm! t promeding with Step 5. 14. Connect the tester leads as shows
15. Rotate the t s e etr counterclockwise until tbs ip volts. Turn the indimtor loapb

(C

62

CHAPTJCR THREE

CXWPlXR THREE
16. While cycling the tester TEST button 2-3 times per second to simulate breaker point action, slowly turn the indicator knob countercloclwke until the tester indicator lamp lights. This should occur at a scale setting of approximately "80" at 12 volts. 17. Depress tester RESET button. If the indicator lamp does not go out, replace the CD unit. 18. Cycle the TEST button at least 5 times. If the indicator lamp does not light for each cycle, replace the CD unit. 19. Turn the indicator knob clockwise to align the knob mark with the "100" mark on the tester scale and adjust tester voltage knob until the meter reads 12 volts. 20. Repeat Steps 16-18. The results should be the same with the indicator knob reading within 2 points of the setting in Step 16. 2 1. If the indicator knob reading is less than s p e d 4 in Step 20, scrape sufficient paint from the CD unit to provide a good ground and connect the tester ground lead directly to the CD unit. Repeat Steps 16-20. If the indicator knob reading does not change, replace the CD unit. 22. If the regding does change in Step 21, the CD unit is not grounded properly. Correct the poor ground condition, return the tester ground lead to its engine ground and repeat Steps 16-20 to make sure ground is satisfactorily. 23. If the CD unit has checked satisfactorily to this point, adjust the tester voltage knob until the meter reads 9 volts and align the indicator knob mark with the "100" mark on the tester scale. 24. Repeat Steps 16-20. The results should be the same with the indicator knob reading a minimum of 65 (Motorola) or 73 (Delta). If the nadings are below the minimum, replace the CD unit. 25A. Motorola Electronic and CD-If the circuit and CD unit are satisfactory to this point, test the distributor as described in this chapter. 25B. Al others-If the circuit and CD unit l are satisfactory to this point, check the distributor breaker point condition and gap. Replace or adjust the points as required. See Chapter Four.

Motorola Electronic Distributor Test 1. Rotate the flywheel to position the TDC or 0 degree mark with the timing pointer. 2. Slip the distributor drive belt off the distributor pulley and turn the ignition switch ON. 3. Disconnect the coil secondary wire at the coil tower. Install a 12 inch length of secondary wire in the mil tower. 4. Grasp the end of the wire installed in Step 3 with a pair of insulated pliers and hold the end of it about 1/2 inch from a ground. 5. Spin the distributor pulley. If a spark jumps the gap between the wire and ground, the problem is in the secondary circuit. 6. If there is no spark in Step 5, turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery cables and remove the distributor cap. Rotate the distributor pulley to expose the preamplifier. 7. Disconnect the whitelblack wire at the distributor and connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to the terminal. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the preamplifier blue wire and reconnect the battery cables. 8. Turn ignition switch to ON or RUN position (do not start engine). 9. Insert a credit card, match book cover or similar opaque item batween the preamplifer and distributor contact to activate the preamplifier make-break circuit. The ec voltmeter should r a t as follows: a. Red preamplifier-tripping the circuit will cause the voltmeter needle to move upscale and then return to zero.

preamplifer-tripping the circuit

will cause the voltmeter to read battery voltage until the opaque item is

inch f o the distributor cap center tenniaal rm base and spin the distributor pulley. If a gomi spark does not jump the gap, replace the cap.
Delta and Motorola Magmpower &@tion Coil Test Test the coils as described for magneto iepition systems in this chapter. MAGNAFOWER n IGNITION SYSTEM T i ignition system was used on hs 1977-1980 55 hp, 1974-1976 60 hp, 1977-1978 65 hp and 1975-1977 105, 120 and 135 hp engines. It functioned erratically and Chrysler Marine offered an ignition retrofit kit part No. K1124 (55-65 hp) or part No. K1054 (105-135 hp) under warranty

IEf the voltmeter reacts as described in

9, the preamplifier is presumed to be although this is not necessarily true. is no test to isolate a preamplifier that

when accelerated

e ignition OFF. D k o ~ e c the t remove the voltmeter and the end of the wire installed in

the rotor and shafl assembly the distributor cap and

components are available but should the module fail, the only repair option is to install the retrofit kit, which is still available from some Chrysler/U.S. Marine dealers.
CircEoit Test

Refer to F m 37 (2qlinder) or Figure 38 (4-cylinder) for this procedure.

the wira and test each ~k p b terminal base in the er. Remove a wire, perform the the spark quality and reinstall the testing the next terminal base. Ifa

2. Start the engine, let it run at idle, then activate the timing light. If the timing light p , oq the c y m r i firine. s '3. the timing light to & remaining cylinder and repeat Step 2 determine which cylinder or cylinden an

the original coil wire to the ground the coil end of the

hold it about 114

66

CHAPTJCR THREE

MAONAPOWER II SCHEMATIC

CD module

Tachonmar (purple)

+2ao von

DC

moduta

sp.* PlW

CHAPTER THREE
4. Choke the engine to shut it off. This will retain a hllcharge in the capacitors, which is required for troubleshooting. 5. Disconnect all spark plug leads to prevent the engine from starting accidentally. 6. Ground the shaft of an insulated screwdriver to the flywheel and touch the screwdriver tip to the CD module T-1 terminal (Figure 39). Repeat this step to test the T-4 terminal. 7. If there is a good arc between t b screwdriver tip and each tenniual, pmceed with Step 18. 8. If there is not a good arc at both terminals, disconnect the trigger Wire at the terminal with the weakest arc and crank the engine to recheck the arc. 9. If there is a good arc with the trigger disconnected in Step 8, check the CD module-to-trigger and trigger-to-coil w r n iig for cracks, frayed insulation or other defects and correct as required. If wiring is satisfactory, replace the trigger. 10. If the arc is still poor with the trigger disconnected, the CD module or capacitor i s probably defective.
NOTE Steps 11-14 apply only to 55-60 hp engines. i

13. Install the flywheel and start the engine briefly to charge the capacitors. Choke the engine to shut it off. 14. Repeat Step 6 and Step 7. If the poor arc transfers to the other & t r p a e the elc trigger. If the poor arc remains on the same terminal as in Step 6 or Step 7, the CD module is probably defective.
NOTE The remaining steps apply to all engines as specified.

15. Disconnect the capacitor and trigger leads from the mal!hctioning tenninal and install a spade terminal to provide a good test
C O M ~ O ~ .

1 1. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 12. Disconnect all trigger module leads. Remove the trigger assembly bolts and rotate the assembly 180'. Reconnect the leads.

16. Connect CD tester T8953 as follows according to the terminal being tested: a. T-1 terminal-COIL P lead to T-1 terminal; COIL N lead to a good engine ground. b. T-4 terminal-COIL N lead to T-4 terminal; COIL P lead to a good engine 11r0-d. 17. Set CD tester indicator knob to "50" on the tester soale and crank the engine. If the tester light comes on, replace the capacitor module. If the tester light does not come on, replace the CD module. 18. C o ~ e cthe CD tester COIL N lead to a t good engine ground and the COIL P lead to the positive (+) terminal of the No. 1 cylinder coil.

and c r s i l l l t t h c ~ e Ifthe . not mme on, replaoethe No.

-R-tS*.'8d

firhrg properly. 1 I s a lthe MI.4-1 dip over t e N .spado . ntl b~&l plug wire as close as p s i to $heR g f a sm bW 2.&-*yen~*&+'jaf~* T8953 to the m1dip lead. c i ' t h mm m

4. Depress testsr

indktor b p out. U d p MM-1 dip fFom No. 1 plug wire and instal.on Ng. 2 glns wire. &peat S62ps 1-3 to test t eh 0 t h ~ ht e
one Win at the sW$

reset button to

:. -,, :.
:I'

unl

,r.

,I,

MAGNAPOWER In IGNITION SYSTEM

This ignition system is used on 1974-1978

chapter. Ifthe system pasees all 5 tests the~y~~&n0tGre,replace ignition mils. 6. If only the NO. 1 cylinder fins,

consists of a preliminary check and 5 individual component tests. The test

sequences require the use of Chrys1erN.S. Marine CD tester T8953 and ignition tester T8996, which includes a No. 22 trigger pulse detector, load mil and MM- I clip. PrelimimryCbeeL This procedure determines whether there is ' d e n t voltage present in the secondary

7.
aBIkr

CHAPTER THREE Test 1

(Stator W n i g Output) idn 1. Diwnnect the blue and yellow stator wires at the tenniaal block. Connect the yellow stator wire to the terminal block ground terminal. 2. Connect the trigger pulse detector red test lead to the discmnected blue wire and the yellow test lead to the ground terminal. See Figwe 40. 3. Place the pulse detector switch in position 2 and crank the engine. The tester lamp should light. 4. Reconnect the blue wire to the terminal block and disconnect the yellow wire from the ground terminal. 5. Connect the red test lead of CD tester T8953 to the diSW~e~ted yellow wire and the yellow lead to the ground terminal. See Figwe 41. 6. Set the indicator knob to "10" on the t s e scale and crank the engine. The tester etr lamp should light
7. If the tester lamp does not light in Step 3 or Step 6,replace the stator.

Test 2 (No. 1 Cylinder Mgger Coil Output) 1. Disconnect the trigger housing white1 green wire at the texminal block. 2. Connect the trigger pulse detector red test lead to the disconnected whitelgreen wire. Connect the yellow test lead to the terminal block red wire terminal. See Figure 42. 3. Place the pulse detector switch in position 1 and crank the engine. If the test lamp lights, replace the CD unit. If it does not light, replace the trigger stator. Test 3 (No. 2 Cylinder Trigger Coil Output) 1. Disconnect the trigger housing orange wire at the terminal block.

CHAPTER THREE
2. Connect the trigger pulse detector red test lead to the disconnected orange wire. Connect the yellow test lead to the terminal block green wire terminal. See Figure 43. 3. Place the pulse detector switch in position 1 and crank the engine. If the test lamp lights, replace the CD unit. If it does not light, replace the trigger stator.
4. Connect the yellow t s lead to the et terminal block ground terminal. 5. Set the indicator knob to "SO" on the tester scale and crank the engine. If the tester lamp does not light, replace the CD unit.

Test 5 (CD Unit Output-No. 2 Coil) Refer to Figure 45 for this procedure. the 1. D~SCOM& CD unit white wire at the No. 2 ignition coil. 2. Connect the load coil between the disconnected white wire and the terminal block ground terminal. 3. Connect the red test lead of CD tester T8953 to the white wire (same wire as in Step 2). 4. Connect the yellow test lead to the terminal block ground tenninal.

Ts 4 et
(CD Unit Output-No. 1 Coil)

Refer to Figure 44 for this procedure. t 1. D i s c o ~ e cthe CD unit brown wire at the No. 1 ignition coil. 2. Connect the load wil between the d i ~ C O ~ e ~ t e d wire and the terminal brown block ground terminal. 3. Connect the red test lead of CD tester T8953 to the brown wire (same wire as in step 2).

m
! Set the tester indicator dial on "45" and & @lank engine. The tester lamp should the
3. Connect the yellow ts lead to the end of et the yellow-sleeved plug adapter w r marked ie "plug 1." 4. Place the pulse detector switch in position 1 and crank the engine. If the test lamp does not light, replace the trigger stator, 5. Remove the plug adapter and reconnect the 2-wire plug.
Test 3 (No.2 Cylinder Trigger Output)
Refer to Figure 48 for this procedure. 1. Disconnect the 2-wire (orange and green) connector plug between the trigger housing and CD coil module. Connect the trigger housing end to the 2-wire plug on plug adapter T11201.

%. Remove the plug adapter and reconnect

gbth stator connector plugs.

@ Cylinder Trigger Oatput) b 1. "';Refer to Figure 47 for t i procedure. hs

i' lXsconnect the

2-wire

(*

and

wire marked "plug 2."

Engin. w n d
- .

CHAPTER THREE
2. Connect the t&gex pulse detector red test lead to the end nf the red-sleeved plug adapter wire marked "plug 2." 3. Connect thG.y s l h test lead to the end of the yellowplug adapter wire marked "plug 1." 4. pulse detector switch in position 1 and crank the engine. If the test lamp does not &bt, replace the trigger stator. 5. Remove the plug adapter and reconnect the 2-wire plug, prior to 1980, it is called a Magnapower ignition. On 1980 and later models, it is called a magneto CD ignition. The circuit test co11sists of a preliminary check and 5 individual component t s s The test et. seque.nces require the use of Chrysler/U.S. Marine CD tester T8953, ignition tester T8996 (which includes a No. 22 trigger pulse detector, load coil and MM-1 clip) and plug adapter T11201.
P r e h b u y Check This procedure d e t d e s whether there is sufticient voltage present in the secondary system to tire the spark plug and if the plug is firing properly.

MAGNAPOWER/MAGNETO CD I G r n O N SYSTEM
This ignition system is used on 20, 25, 30 and 35 hp electric start engines. On models

close as possible to the plug boot. the yellow t s lead of CD tester et

ignition switch M terminaL I both cyliadars f now fire, replace the ignition switch. If Wnh cylinders still do not fire, replace both 6. If only the No. 1 cylinder fires, install a new spark plug in the No. 2 cylinder and repeat Steps 1-3. If that does not correct the problem, perform test 5 and test 3 (in that order) as described in this chapter. If the system passes both tests, replace the No. 2 ignition coit 7. If only the No. 2 cylinder fires, install a new spark plug in the No. 1 cylinder and m t St= 1-3. If that d m not Correct the problem, perform test 4 and test 2 (in that order) as described in this chapter. If the system passes both tests, replace the No. 1 ignition coil.
--biOOw ~ f o r m . 2 ~
(ong.dgmn)

,, :

test lead to the tenninal block ground

t s e indicator dial on "75" and etr e. The tester indicator lamp

tester reset button to tuin p out. Unclip MM-1 clip from 1 plug wire and isal on No. 2 plug ntl Steps 1-3 to ts the other et e engine does not fire on either , perform tests 1-5 (in that order) as bed in this chapter. If the s s e passes ytm t s s remove either wire from the et,

78

CHAPTER THREE

I ,

Disc4mnect the 2-wire (blue and yellow) OoMeotor plug between the stator and CD k t . Connect the stator end of the plug to the %wire plug connector on plug adapter 1 T11201. See Figure 49. n 2. Connect the yellow-sleeved win marked j Uplug lnontheplugadaptertoagoodm&e

i!
'
I

a.

4, Connect the yellow test lead to tihe terminal block ground terminal. 5 Set the tester switch in position 2 and . crank the engine. The tester lamp s h d
light. 6. Remove the trigger pulse detector fiom the circuit. 7. Ikmmnect the yellow-sleeved p w adapter wire from the engine ground and connect it t the red test lead of CD taster o T8953. See Flglw 5 . 0 8 Connect the *ow . test lead to the terminal block ground terminal. 9. Set the t s e indicator knob on "10" and etr crank the engine. The test lamp should light

: +mild.

! detector to the end of the red-sleeved wire

m k e d "plug 2" on the plug adapter.

3. Connect red test lead of the trigger pulse

10. If the test lamp does not l w t in Step 5 or Step 9, replace the stator. 11. Remove the plug adapter and rec01111cct the 2-wire stator oonsector plug to the CD plug.

Test 2 (No. 1 CYWw Trlgser OPtpllf) R f r to F&gllre for this procedure. ee 51 1. Ekomect the 4-wire amnector plug between the trigger housing and CD unit. Connectthet1iggerhousiagdtothe4-wire plug on plug adapter TI 1201. 2. Connect the trigger pulse detecbr red test lead to the end of the red-sleeved plug adapter win marked "Trigger 1 Pos."

3. Connect the yellow ts lead to the end of et the yellow-sleeved plug adapter wire marked "Trigger 1 Neg." 4. Place the pulse detector switch in position 1 and crank the engine. If t e ts h p lights, h et r p a e the CD unit. If it does not light, elc replace the tr&?r housing assembly. 5. Remove the plug adapter and reconnect the 4-wire plug.

R f r to Figure 52 for this prodwe. ee 1. JXsconnect the 4-wire connector plug between the trigger housing and CD unit.

. (CD Unit Output--No.1 Coil)

p$w wire marked "Trigger 2 POS." &meet the yellow test lead to the end of

the pulse detector switch in position crank the engine. If'the test lamp lights, the CD unit. If' it does not l g t ih,
act the trigger housing assembly.

h o v e the plug adapter and reconnect &wife plug.

Refer to Figure 53 for this p d w . 1. ~iscomect CD unit brown wire at the the No. 1 ienition coil. 2. CoGect the load coil between the disconnected brown wire and the terminal block ground terminal. 3. Comect the red test lead of CD tse etr T8953 to the brown wr (same wire as in ie step 2). 4. Connect the yellow test lead to the terminal block ground terminal.

a* PW

82

CHAPTEB5. Set the indicator h o b to YSO" 6n

5. Set the indicator knob to "50" on the tester sale and crank the engine. Ifthe tester
lampdoesnotligbt,replscetheCDunit.

ted

testerscalcandcrankthe~.EtheW lamp das not light, replaa the CD unit

Ig~dtionCoilT&

Test 5 (CD Unit Output-No. 2 Coil) Refer to F m 54 for this procedun. 1. b m e c t the CD unit w i e wire at the ht No. 2 ignition mil. 2. Connect the load coil beaween the disconnectedwhite+andtheterminal block ground Mninal. 3.Connccttlu:ndtra3lsadofCD~

TS953tothetRhittwin(semewlnasinStep
2).
4. Connect the yellow test lead to the terminal block ground tMminal

1. Remove the ignition coil from the eneinC, 2. Connect an ohmmeter between e i t b primarywireterminalandgroundTbe~ should show 0.03-0.05 ohm resir4ance. 3. Conned the obmmete~between eithat primary wire tetminal and the end of thi smndary wire. The meter should show 230-2600hm~ * 4. ~ f t b c m e t e r ~ ~ n o t a s s p i i i e d i n step 2 and Step 3, replace the coil.
"

mlmmrk
to w * r n u

. -

- . 1
I .

CD IGNITION SYSTEM SLER ENGINES) ,?&k n l CD system was introduced @baame 1980 55 hp engines. It is also used 1982-1984 125 hp and some 1983-1984 b and 85 hn mpines. The circuit test

mwnent tests (3 on the 75. The test &qmces r&&e the use of p k CD tester T8953, ignition tester Wi (which incldm a No. 22 trigger pulse
--pter TI 1237. 1.

CAUTION
ometer is installed, Chmler rocommen& the use Q its 5 6 M7

Prelinbuy Check This procedure dewmines whether thaeis sufficient voltage present in the secondary system to fire the spark plug,and if the plug is firing properly. 1. InstalltheMM-1 clipovertheNo. 1 spark plug wire as close as possible to the plug boot. 2. Connect the yellow test lead of CD tegtea T8953 to the MM-1 clip lead. Connect the red test lead to the terminal block ground wire screw. 3. Set the tester indicator dial on "80" and crank the engine. The tester indicator lamp will light if the cylinder is firing normally. 4. Depress tester reset button to turn indicator lamp out. Repeat Steps 1-3 on each remaining cylinder.
CAUTION
lfthe ignition switch is replaced in Step 5, it must be wired as magneto CD rather than battery CD.

d l or one wired in the same manner. Failure to w e a correctly wired fachomam will damage the ixnition system.

5. If the engine doea not fire on any cyIinder (55-85 hp)ordoesnotfireontheNo. 1 and2 or the No. 3 aud 4 cyhdem (125 hp):
L'C

e.

a Check the ground wire at the tenniaal block. b. If the ground is good, perform tests 1-5 (in that order) as described in this
chapter. c. Ifthesystempassesall5tests,remove

either wire from the ignition switch M terminal. If all cylindm now k, replace the ignition SWW, the If cy~stiUdonat~nplsEethe ignitionooils. 6. If only the No. 1 (55 hp) or the No. 1 and 2 (75,85 and 125 hp) cylinders h . a Install a new spark plug in the No. 2 (55 hp), No. 3 (75-85 hp) or No. 3 and 4 (125 hp) ~ y and repeat Steps 1-3. m

b. If that does not correct the p o i w perfonntest5andte~t3(for2-d 4-cy~eaginep)orteSt6andtost7 (for 3cylinder engines). c. ~f the system passes both tests, n w p , the No. 2 (55 hp), No. 3 (75-85 hp) or, No. 3 and 4 (125 hp) @ti08 coils. 7. If only the No. 2 (55 hp), No. 3 (75-85 h& or No. 3 and 4 (125 hp) cylinders fin: a. Install a new spark plug in the No. 1 (53) hp) o the No. 1 and 2 (75,85 and 123 r

b If that does .

hp) c y h d a and repeat step^ 1-3. ~ not cornet the pmbb& peafioim test 5 and ts 3 (for 2- and et

4-~ylinder~)ortest6andtest7 (for 3cybkr engines).

c. Ifthesystempassesbothteets,replact the No. 1 (55 hp) or No. 1 and 2 (75,85 and 125 hp) ignition coils.

ThialttgtchcksthaNo. l(55 hp)orNo. 1 I end 2 (125 hp) cyliader output Bs&r W ~56fnarhinp.actdme. 1.DiclEaoacctthc 4-whe canabctar*,

'bstarpantlw~h~andGDilmt,~

~ t b e ~ ~ e a d t O t h e plug an phrg adapter T 1 3 . I 27 2Comrectthe~puhsdetectorrsdtgZ lsedtothaendofthsrad~plYQ

adepter~nterked"trieeg1pok" I 3. ~ t h e y p l b w t e s t ~ t O t h e a b d o f ,
*ycll-p14gPdsgta*-,

-1W.'' 4 Placethepulaedetsctosawi~in~ .
lanfJdtheGngiue.lltheteadlemplighl8, replacetheCDMit.Bhetsstkmp~not
lisht,IGplacethetriegsBBusinq-W. i 5 Remove the plug adapter and reoonntcrj . theearin&& I

86

CHAPTER THREE

our rrlm plug

mfipONhw*ng

test checks the No. 2 (55 hp) or No. 3 e 4-wire connector plug the trigger housina --d -- iinit. m - A + 7 the 4-wire , . aaaprer 1 1 1 L 5 I . a w n n c r h e trigger pulse detector red test ; to the I of the red-sleeved plug & & end e;daoter wire marked "trims 2 ~os." k connect the yellow &lead t o the end of h yellow-sleeved plug adapter wire marked e . . %aigser 2 neg." 4. I the pulse detector switch in position . 1and crank the engine. If the test lamp lights, the CD unit. If the test lamp does not the trigger housing assembly. 5. Remove the plug adapter and reconnect &be &wire plug.
~

Test 4 (CD Unit Output) This test checks the CD unit output to the No, 1 (55 hp) or No. I and 3 (125 hp) ignition coils. Refer to Figure 58 for this p d u n ? .
NOTE On 125 hp engines, the wh~te lead coil may be disconnected at either the No. 1 or No. 3 coil in Step I .

- 4 .

ma"

1. Disconnect the CD unit orange wire. Disconnect the white coil lead at the No. 1 ignition coil. 2. Connect the orange wire &om the CD unit to the single wire plug on plug adapter TI 1237. 3. Connect the yellow test lead of CD tester T8953 to the yellow-sleeved wire on the plug adapter marked "CD." 4. Connect the red test lead to the terminal block ground terminal.

88

CHAmmTHREE

5. Set the indicator knob to "60" on the tester scale and crankthe engine. Ifthe test lamp lights, replace the No. 1 (55 hp) or No. 1 and 3 (125 hp) ignition coils If the lamp does not light, replace the CD unit. 6. ReumnecttheorangeCDunitandwhite coil leads.

2. ConnecttheredwirefromtheCDunittb the single wire plug on plug adapter T11237. 3. Co~ecttheyellowteatladofCDW T8953 to the yellow-slecd wire on the plug adapter marked "CD." 4. Colllxed the nd ts lead to the taminai et block ground terminal. 5. Set the indicator knob to "60" on the tester scale and crankthe engine. Ifthe test Teat 5 lamp lights, replace the No. 2 (55 hp) or No. unit Olltpd) Thistestch~~kstheCDunitoutppttothe 2 and 4 (125 hp) ignition coils. If the lamp lieht,nplacethemunit. No. 2(55 h p ) o r N 0 . 2 d 4 ( 1 2 5 h p ) ~ 6. RcmmcttheredCDunitandwhitecoil coils.Rcfcrto~s9forthis~
leads.
NOTE On 125 hp engines, the white coil iwd may be &cmncrted a either the No. 2 t or No. 4 coil im Step 1.

Test 6 (7545 4 TriBBer OlbpPt) This test checks the trigger coil output oa

1. Disconnect the CD unit red wire. Disconnect the white coil lead at the No. 2 ignition coil.

each cylinder. 1. Disconnect the 4-wire (orangeand green) connector plug between the trigger housing

C o ~ e cthe trigger housing end t plug on plug adapter T 1237. I pulsedEtectarradtcst

Connecttheredleadtothesipgk,~~, on plug adapter TI1237 mark& "CIA" 6. Repeat Step 4.

NOTE The mange lead at the rear CD wtit fs not used vn 3-cylinder engines.
1,)

plug adapter wire marked

,,
I

detector switch in position e engine. If the test lamp lightq CD unit. If the lamp d m not e trigger housing assembly.

testleadtotheendof adapterwiremarlred

7. Disconnect the white No. 3 ignition a $ lead from the rear CD unit red lead. Corn& the red lead to the single wire plug m plug adapter TI 1237 marked "CD." 8. R e p a S t e p 4 . 9. IfthetestlampfailstolightinStep4or Step 6, replace the forward CD unit. If it doas not ligbt in Step 8, replace the rear CD Uait.

PBESTOLITE CD

IGNITION SYSTEM (FORCE ENGINES) The alternator CD system used on late-model Chrysler 75, 85 abd 125 hp engines w s carried over to 1984 and later a Force 85 hp and 125 hp models. Components and system operation are the same, but W.S. Marine provides different test equipment and .-?I Two versions of the CD ignition system atc used. System A has plug-in connectors on d l components; System B makes m s elemid ot 4. Disconnect the white No. 1 ignition coil connections through terminal blocb. Tcst I hixi the f o r ~ a r d unit orange lead. CD points differ according to system design. Connect the orange lead to the single wire The circuit test sequence can8istJ plug on plug adapter T11237 marked "CD." preliminary check and ind 1 . Connect the yellow test lead of CD tester 2 components tests. The test squdncea T8953 to the yellow-sleeved plug adapter the use of U.S. marine lead and spark tester T 112 3. Co~ecttheredtestleadtotheterminal other than T 11259 is it block ground terminal. ' capable of measuring 4. Set the indicator knob to "60" on the conventional volt-ohmEcster d e and crank the engine. The tester wl not work. A timiog il lama shouM ,5. Disconaact the white No. 2 ignition coil and test wheel 'lead from the f o d CD unit red l a . ed far the unit. If the lamp does not trigger housing assembly. plug adapter and reconnect

..I- .

w. t

Prelimimuy Check (System A or System B)

Tp 1 ar (stator tcsf)
1. Disconnect the blue and yellow connector plugs between the stator and

This procedure determines whether there is enough voltage in the secondary system to 6re the spark plug and if the plug is firing properly. 1. Connect the spark tester to a good engine ground and set its gap to 7/16 in. 2. Disconnect the spark plug leads and connect them to the corresponding leads on the spark tester. 3. Remove the spark plugs from the engine. 4. Crank fhe engine while watching the spark tester. If a good bright spark jumps the tester gap from all cylinders, the system is functioning normally and further testing is not required. 5. If one or more cylinders are not firing properly, check all grounds and all wire connections in the system. Correct any defect found and repeat Step 4. If all cylinders now have a good spark, M e r testing is not required. 6. If one or more cylinders do not fire properly in Step 4 and no defects are found during the inspection in Step 5, disconnect the 2 white CD box leads from the terminal strip on the starter side of the engine. Make sure the disconnected leadsare dot grounded, then crank the engine and watch the spark tester. a. If all cylinders fire normally, there is a problem in the system wiring. b. If one or more cylinders still do not 6re normally, proceed with the individual component tests.

units. 2. With the meter set on the 400 setting, wnnect its test leads be yellow and blue wire terminals in end of the plug. Crank the engine and n the reading. The peak voltage reading sho be 2 10 volts or more. 3. Repeat Step 2 to check the and blue wire terminal set. On 3engines, both blue wires are in one conn with a yellow wire, the other yellow wire a separate connector. For this step, y should check the blue wire not checked Step 2 and the single yellow wire connectw The meter reading should be the same. 4. Set the meter on theX 100 position connect its test leads between the yellow blue wire terminals in the stator end of th6 plug checked in Step 2. The meter should read 675-800 ohms. 4 5. Repeat Step 4 to check the same yellow and blue wire terminals checked in Step 3. Again, the meter should read 675-800 ohms. 6. Set the meter on theX 1 position and connect its negative lead to a good engine ground. Probe each blue and yellow win terminal with the positive lead. In each case, the meter reading should be infinite.

System A Component Tests

NOTE Weak flywheel magnets can result in low voltage readings with normal resistance values. Ifyow readings show this to be the case, replace the flywheel and repeat the tesf.

Voltage and resistance tests are provided for each System A component. Figure 60 (3-cylinder) and Figure 61 (4-cylinder) show ignition system components, w r n and iig
mectom

7. If your test results are satisfactory, proceed to Test 2. If any reading is not as spedied, re~lace stator and reueat this test. the

Test 2
(Trigger Test, 3 cylinder)

1. Disconnect the 2-wire and 4-wire connectoxs from the trigger assembly. 2. Withthematarsktonthe2DVAsettin& connect its negative te@ lead to the green wire terminal and its positive test lead to the orangewireterminalinthetriggerendofthe 2-wirc connector. Crank the engine and note the mding. It should be 0.3 volts or more.
PREmUTL CD MWlTlON SYSTEM

3. Repeat Step 2 to check the green orange wire terminals in the trigger end 4-wire connector. The reading should be volts or more. 4. Connect the negative test lead to the wire t r i a and the positive test lead to emnl whitelgreen wire terminal in the trigger of the 4-wire connector. Crank the engine note the reading. It should be 0.3 volts more.

t& leads between the green and e rminals in the trigger end of the in Step 2. The meter should
Step 5 to check the green and wire terminals in the trigger end of the
*re the test leads

to the whiWgreen and

terminals in the 4-wire cmnector.

ve meter lead to a good meter lead. In each case, the reading should bc infinite.
NOTE Weak flywheel magnets can result in low voltage readings with normal resistance valws. V y o w readings show this to be the case, replace the flywheel and repeat the tesl.

4. Repeat Step 2 and Step 3 to check the other 4-wire connector. In each aw, thc reading should be 0.3 volts or more. 5. Set the meter on the X 1 position et connect ixs ts leads between the gran and orangewiretmainalsinthetxiggerendofthe plug checked in Step 2. The meter should read 45-50 ohms. 6. Move the test leads to the whitelgreen +@ red wire taminals in the same conn-. The meter should read 45-50 ohms. 7. Repeat Step 5 and Step 6 to check the terminals in the other 4-wire connector. The meter readbgs should be the same. 8. Connect the negative meter lead to a good engine ground. Probe each wire terminal in both connectors with the positive meter lead. In each case, the meter reading should be infinite.
NOTE

' I
I

W a flywheel magnets can result in ek

tow vohage readings with normal resistance values. Ifyour readings show this to be the case, r e p k e thejlywheel and repeai the test.

u t s results are satisfactory, prolxd r et 3. If any meter reading is not as ed, replace the trigger and repeat this

9. If your test results are satisfactory, proceed to Ts 3. If any meter reading is not a8 et specified, replace the trigger and repeat W test.

With the meter set on the 2 DVA setting, its positive test lead to the
at a w durirg the following test p m e h Reconnect lead d e r completing tes Md prior to testing ~ p o d t p e r f b m m a m remaining l e d .
isc connect only one

UUIION

I:

(3. Move the negative test l& to the red wire pminal and the positive ts lead to the et iwhitdgreen wire terminal in the trigger end of the ~-wire COMector. Crank the engine and ;note the reading. It should be 0.3 volts or

1. Remove three nuts holding CD bracket on power head. With all gent1 head

2. Disconnect the orange lead between one CD pack and its respective coil. 3. With the meter set on the 400 D A setting, V connect its positive test lead to a good engine ground. Connect the negative test lead to the terminal end of the CD pack orange lead. Crank the the engine while obse~ing meter. The meter should read peak voltage of 210 volts or more. 4. Repeat Step 3 to check the orange lead of the remaining CD pack. The meter should read peak voltage of 210 volts or more.

5. Repeat Step 3 to check the red lead CD pack. The meter should read peak of 210 volts or more. 6. If any reading is not as specified, replace affected CD pack. System B Component Tests
Voltage and resistance tests for each System B compo (3-cylinder) and Figure 63 (4-cylinder)

, ignition system components, wiring and

I

~onnectors.

T& 1 {Srpor test) To assure valid readings, disconnect the ' w o w and blue stator wires from the ' temhal strip. Figure 64 (3-cylinder) and BIgare 65 (4qlinder) show the connection
I

1. With the meter set on the 400 DVA setting, connect its test leads between one set of yellow and blue stator w r s See 2, Ffigm ie. 64 or F i e 65. Crank the engine and note the reading. The peak voltage reading should be 210 volts or more.
2. Repeat Step 1 to check the other set of yellow and blue stator wires. See 3, FPgure 64 or Figure 65. N t that on 3-cylinder engines, both blue oe wires connect to the same terminal strip. Be sum

m. b

to check the blue wire not chedsed in Step I. The meter reading should be the same. 3. Set the meter on the XI00 position and connect its test leads between one set of yellow and blue stator wires. See 2, Figure 64 or Figure 65. The meter should read 675-800 ohms. 4 Repeat Step 3 to check the remaining . yellow and blue wires. See 3, Figure 64 or Figure 65. Again, the meter should read 675-800ohms. 5. Set the meter on the X 1 position and connect its negative lead to a good engine ground. Check each blue and yellow wire with the positive test lead. In each case,the meter reading should be inlinite.
NOTE
Weak flywheel magnets can result in low voltage readings with normal resistance values. uyour readings show this to be the case, replace the flywheel and repeat tkc test.

2. Crank the engine and note the mdhg. should be 0 3 volt or more. . 4 Set the meter on the X1 position . connect its test leads between the orange wires disconnected from of the tenninal strip. The 45-50ohms. 5. Repeat Step 4 to check the orange wires disco~ected of the terminal strip. The 45-50ohms. 6. Move the test leads to the whitelgreen r d wires r l i s c o n n d from terminals e the terminal strip. The meter should 45-50ohms. 7. Connect the negative meter lead to a ie engine ground. Check each disconnected wx with the positive meter lead. In each case, , meter reading should be infinite.
NOTE
Weak j7ywheeI magnets can result in low voltage readings with normal

6 If your test results are satisfactory, procmd . to Test 2. If any reading is not as specified, replace the stator and repeat this test.
Test 2 (trigger t a t , 3-cylinder) To assure valid readings, discdnnect wires to be tested from the tenninal strip. Mgure 66 shows the connection points. 1. With the meter set on the 2 DVA setting, connect its negative test lead to the green wire and its positive test lead to the orange wire disconnected from terminal 1. Crank the engine and note the reading. It should be 0 3 . volt or more. 2. Repeat Step 1 to check the green and orange wires disconhected from terminals 3 of the terminal strip. The reading should be 03 volt or more. . 3. Connect the negative test lead to the red wire and the positive test lead to the w h i t a c p e ~ disconnected from terminals wire

2. Crank the engine and note the reading. It should be 0.3 volt or m r . oe 4. Repeat Step 3 to check the red and hitd dm +&'k6 d b ~ e c t e d h0m terminals 4 of the terminal strip. The reading should be 0.3 volt or m r . oe 5. Set the meter on theX 1 position and connect its test leads between the green and orange wires h n n d fiom terminals 1 of the terminal strip. The meter should read 45-50 ohms. 6. Repeat Step 5 to check the green and orange wires d i m n n d h m terminals 3 of the terminal strip. T e nading should be h 45-50 ohms. 7. Move the test leads to the whiWgmm and red w r s disconnected from k m h a l s 2 of ie the terminal strip. The meter should read 45-50 ohm. 8. Repeat Step 7 to check the w i e g e n ht/re and red w r s disconnd h m terminals 4 ie of the terminal strip. The meter should read 45-50 ohms. 9. Connect the negative meter lead to a good engine ground. Check each dkCO~eCted wire with the pwitive ntetsr 1 4 In each case, the meter reding should be W t e .

NOTE
W a flywheel magnets can result in ek low voltage readings with normal resistance values. Ifyour readings show this to be the care. replace the flywheel and repeat the test.

10. If your test results are s - r , aw y proceed to Ts 3. If any meter reading is aq5 et as specified, replace the trigger and repeat tbb test
r

prior to testing CD pack performance on remaining lea&.

1. Remove t r e nuts holding CD components he bracket on power head. With all wires connected, gently remove components bracket from power head mounting studs and position assembly to expose wires on back side. 2. Disconnect the orange lead between one CD pack and its respective coil. 3. With the meter set on the 400 D A setting, V connect its positive test lead to a good engine ground. Connect the negative test lead to the terminal end of the CD pack orange lead. Crank the engine while observing the meter. The meter should read peak voltage of 210 volts or more. 4. Repeat Step 3 to check the orange lead of the remaining CD pack. The meter should read peak voltage of 210 volts or more. 5. Repeat Step 3 to check the red lead of each CD pack. The meter should read peak voltage of 210 volts or more. 6. If any reading is not as specified, replace the affected CD pack. IGNITION SWITCH The ignition switch should be removed and all leads disconnected for testing. Continuity and Resistance Check

Refer to Figure 68 (Motorola) o'r Figore 69 (Prestolite) for this procedure. 1. With the switch in the OFF position, connect a self-powered test lamp between terminals M and M. The lamp should light. 2. Turn the switch to the RUN position and connect the test lamp leads between terminals B and I. The lamp should light. Turn the key to the START position. The lamp should remain on. 3. Repeat Step 2 wifh the key depressed to engage the CHOKE position. The lamp should light and remain on as the switch is moved from the RUN to START position. 4. Turn the switch to the RUN position and conrteet the ta lamp leads between terminals et

B and C. Depress key to engage CHOKE position. The lamp should light. Turn the key to the START position. The lamp should remain on. 5. With the switch in START, connect the test lamp between terminals B and S. The lamp should light. Hold switch in START and depress key to engage CHOKE position. The lamp should remain on. 6. Disconnect the spark plug leads to prevent the engine from starting. 7. Connect a negative voltmeter lead to ground and the positive lead to switch terminal B. Turn switch to START to crank the engine. Note voltmeter reading. 8. Move the positive voltmeter lead to terminal I and repeat Step 7. If voltage drops more than one volt, internal resistance is too great. Replace the switch. 9. If the switch does not perform as indicated in any step, replace the switch.

?(

FUEL SYSTEM

Many outboard owners automatically @stme that the a h w e t o r is at fault when &eeagine does not m properly. while fuel %pitem problems are not uncommon, r adjustment is seldom the answer. T@many cases, adjusting the carbmtor only ~ ~ the problem by smaking the d dOOjne nIn worse. PWI system troubleshooting should start at t b ~ tank and work through the system, gas sgdenhg the carburetofls) as the h a l point. Tfrc majority of fuel system problems result Wbm an empty fuel tank,sour fndZ a plugged hltM or a malfunctioning fhal putnp. 4 provides a series of symptoms and +&uws that can be useN in loeatiy fuel

$tk

' As a first step, check the fuel flow. Remove

fueltankcapandlookiutothetank.If is fuel present, d~~connect ground and & spark plug lead(s) as a safety precaution. $iaxnuKct the fuel line at the carburetor

h m the lihe when t e primer

: If there is no 'fuel flow from the line, the be shut off or blocked by
the fuel line may be or a primer bulb check

valve may be defective. If a good fuel h . i s present, crank the engine 10-12 timsS TQ check fuel pump operation. A pump that % operating sathbtorily will deliver a good, consfant flow of fuel from the line. If the amount of flow varies from pulse to pulse, the fuel pump is probably failing. Cadmetor chokes can also preseat problems. A choke that sticks open will show up as a hard starting problem; one that stidrs closed wl result in a flooding condition. il D r n a hot engine shut-down, the fUel uig bowl temperatwe can rise above 2W, causing the fuel inside to boil. While Cluysler/U.S. Marine carburetors are vented to atmosphere to prevent this problem, then is a possibility that some fuel will pawlate over the high-speed nozzle. A leaking inlet needle and seat o a r defective float will allow an excessive amovnt of fud into the intake manifold. Fkmm in the fuel line after the engine is shut down forces fuel past the leaneedle and sa. et This raises the fuel bowl level, a l w n M loig t o v ~ o w the manifold. o into ~ v fuel econsumption m a y lLot ~ y m e a a a n e n @ a o r f u e l ~ p m b k M a k e growth on the boat's a bent or otherwise dama& propeller or a M line leak can cause an increaac in fupl amsumption. T e e areas should d '8C: hs l checked before blaming the carbuntor. Spark plug wet fouling can cxxw on 3- agd 4-cylinder engines if the system is not functioning fouling proves a chronic problem, recimlation hose from the adapter and try to blow one or more of the reed drain reed plate are not sepliag ENGINE Enf@ problellls are o something msgjn f as Wtioa, A d @-

Page 100 please see Suplement Page

spark leak. Tkn? a 3

machined mating
leak b&wmcylinders.
PManSsiane

engine,a@ and remwe the plu&s. I one f isclQottandtbcatbeddia@@ifbQfh

i .

',

t die m o m m i l y o m opened and then For: a d i q main j in the @ in the fuel or an e x d v e l y

Excessive Vibmtim Examive vibrations may be caused by loose motor mounts* worn bearings or a gemdly ,per running motor.
~k
accurately in this irrea. Nie oss

d i f f d t e a even harder d

*on

clearance or cr wodsticky

cylinder that is gt3lia&

piston~~t.Aco head-cyiinder joint will

madlng I8 b.lor 1.290, m ag or hr . Poor contact d terminals. Wiring or key switch Steltar 8olenold.
(2) Ramova tumlml clamp.. 8onp.
W~l8 clampa &an and

m.

and t!gM.n

bolt8 8ocunly.

Starter motor.

Coal wlm m t w protect .0.ind k turlhor conoolon. check for mu8hllu botwo8m (8) porltlva (+) Imnlmld bmrcy and hrg. Input t m ot 8tart.r donold, u M (b) brgm wh at top of 8taIt.r motor and Mg.lius (-) t m o bmto*, and u w f (c) * i tumllul O 8tart.r 8ohmld Nl f and poMve batmy tuml~l. Kay 8wbh muM bo I START porltlon. n R@r all d.t.cllw parla (3)With 8 fully chargod banq, conrwcl a nogaUvo (-) Jumpwwh to upp8f Wrmhl on rld. of m t motor and cn po8Mve jumper W krg. lowor Imnlnrl of e1.ft.r motor. If motor rWI do08 not opsnW, mmove for wohaul or
npkGnnh

m. -

Sn "Stertw doe8 not 0p.nW." 8.. 'smitof doa8 not 0p.rate."

Check dl Imnlrulr tor loowno88 and

Poorcontactd8tart.r. rd.noldorrtulnnmtor. 8trrt.r IMch.niam.

U@hmall nuts warnly.

h ~ i ~ m o t (+) WI I I I~M. Rotate pinbn war in dh.nga0.d poliitlon. Pinion g8ar and motor rhould run h.ly by hand. motor doer not turn ovw aasily, doan 8tart.r and n l 1 pmI. d.lodiV0 p l ra Sn "SM.r do88 not operato."

8trrt.r motor. Poorconmetat

8.."8trrtw d m not o . ( . pn."

8.."8trrt.rdoa8notop.nt.."

Sn "Stertw doer not opmta."

wknm or 8tel1.r motor.
~ ~ c 0 n o d . d

m m

Clean momuOMy end l u m t e the 8 p b a undammth Um pinion vrlth multipurpon luklunt

(wnlinuod)

s ,&

cracked spark pfug ineumor. Carbon path in di.trlbutor cap. Improper timing. Crossed spark plug wires. Improper ignition timing.
s p u k 8dvanwd too 1.r. i typ.rpulc plug. Burned spark plug dacmdas.

Englne n d (knocking at power head) Ignition coil falls

Spark advanced too far.

Mgh voltlg.. Yoistun fmwbn. Exc..sh h. from engine. .t
EX-nw

I-typ.pfug. Fuel mixture too rlch. Inferior grade of gasoline. Oveheated engine. Excessive carbon in combwtion ch.mb.n.
Ignition-winow

w consumption

I -

epmfk riming.

-n wi a ~-rpu(cpluOw.

pu. lg. Incomct spark odvanw.

weak igmon coil.
R.ignwon

NogashMr. ~ - i n o . . w ~ o p n
A i r ~ l n ~ S ~ ~ .

Fuel tank rWng on fuel IIm. Fuell~fflHngsnotprop.rlycon~0 englneorllmltmlk. Air leak at lm c#um(ion. l l
-p#ngclogp.d

Defulbollmlplmlp.
Chdrewtoiuijwtnmt High float level. float stuck. EICOOOIW hwl pump pmwm
-by n - . o d.
icon&*wd)

Inwrmcl fuel kvel in carbuntor bowl. Carburetor loon . mounting flange. t Throttle ahutter not closing complotdy. Thmttk ahuttw valve in.1.lkd lncornctly.
Dirty carburelor. Loan u r b u n b r adju8tment RosWcUon in (udayatom. ~(II.Ipumppcrrrun. Poor quamy ( d u . Air1lu.l mixture too rich or too i . m Exceaeivo oil in fud. In(.rlor gmde of gawline. Laan arbwetor mixture.
8p.rk plugs burn and foul

Fuel mixture too rich. inbrior gmda of garoiim. C n c k d carburetor carting. Loaks at ilne connectlonm. D.lrct)vo ElrbuntDr bowl glsk.1. High float ievd. Plugged vent hoh in wvrr. Loose noadla and soat. Dofocth n n d k wfvo a n t gsrlrot Worn &k v.hr. and n e t Fomign nuttor Obgglng i d. vavo. mi Worn float pln or bmckot.

w 0-

-mption noodlng or leaking

m t ~ t d w MWI. a in

!fs

.-

OVMich mixM.

M h MPump pMwnChok. kww .tuok. High tb.1 h l .. High fuel pump pmswre.
Cabwetor out of adjurbnmt T w much oli in IwI.

Abnonnrl rp..ds

Chapter Four

Lubrication, Maintenance and Tune-up

e modern outboard motor delivers more ,and performance than ever before, compression ratios, new and components of the engine are thus lubricated as the fuel-oil mixture passes through the crankcase and cylinders. Since outboard fuel serves the dual function of producing ignition and distributing the lubrication, the use of low octane marine white gasolines should be avoided. Such gasolines also have a tendency to cause ring sticking and port plugging. All Chrysler/Force outboards will use any gasoline with a minimum posted pump octane rating of 85 that works sathf&ctorilyin an automotive engine. Lead-free gasoline is preferable to leaded gasoline, as it offers longer spark plug life.
Soor Fuel

performance, extend engine the maximum economy of tune-ups if you follow the and use common sense. information is based on from Chrysler/U.S. elp you keep your outboard

1provides a complete model history. -7 are at the end of the chapter.

LUBIUCATION

engirres are lubricated by with the fuel. The various

Fuel should not be stored for more than 60 days (under ideal conditions). Gasoline fonns gumandvarnishdepositsasitages.SuChfUsl will cause starting problems. A good grade o f gasoline stabilizer and conditioner additim may be used to prevent gum Pad vad& formation during s w or t o periods of non-use but it is drain the tank in such gasoline when mixing

S@@ th@ Miller TQds (32615 I W x Lane('( (3airtea City, MI 48135) now offcas a,, Alcohol Dewaim Kit (part No. G4846) mi '

that aftaersandm c E h a n i c s m m W?
d?midl3lI of the ld i
qualitydfirelbeinsuocd. TZleLitcannot~betweentyphs! o a b h d (e$bauol, methanol, Hc.) nor is 8 f

it i s , , m me@ n
b

akw,hdintiie~toicaprethe~totstt plwmtbm.

'

'&Rot,

&-m-

4#&mMw mala&*.JLkkdlscm~ a,Esoaksagbru.~S&rrthcy~

ndsp?w+y~lrrad[n*d0MIbun as 2-cyck d%P db sad lcavo w @h r e ~ , ~ w o s n r o y i n ~

tanlca Msny W m o W

G2kq.m~ or ar3kr.W cEnalpnt oils. Qt m -

I
I

Ifabnilt-htadciswed,iBsertalaqe Ills&lfiuarfunnelinthetankfillctne&Mu IJW pint of cluy&rNS. Marbe outboard ~ i l m e ~ o f o f m i n ~ t e ~~1t3incr.~popourtlremixaatiatothc

fplapdatthesao~timetbtaukisbebqg
~WibhgasolioLe.

k.

~ The carburstor idls adjustment is sensitive t o f u d m i x t u n ~ w h i e h ~ t l h m smallamount oflnbricanttodraia If*

theuseof~allsaad~orfrom

~ ~ a n d ~ T h i s m a y n?quire mdjwbnent of the idle n a x k To pmnt the mxsW for constant gearcase to determine if a d has failed mi? xtdbtment of the carbumor from one the warn is simply mdeawtion in t b batchofMtothenext,alwaysbe~t. gemcase. See Chapter Niie. Mmre each Batoh offusl exactly the same as 4.RemovetheventplugDonotloscfbr previousom9 aammpmyioe narha. Tht lubricant & n 4w &mixed fuda Bold at some marinas arc bulcvca~tbabottomof~velltpl~bdC notreEammsadadfor~inaulnbcrfisnx
outboards,~~qurlitp~

B
'
'-

ee ~ o f ~ e d a m g e ~ f r o mN v r lubdcwe the gemme M t W fvst remving the vent plw, m the paaofanincorradPualmixtunou~the i q j d lubricant disphws air which c~~~ccofFendbypa-~fud must be d l d to cscqpr. The be w & fiIM
askmcrle.

--

CArnON

Check the gearcase lubricant atter the first 30 hours of opemtion and replace at 100 hour o 6 month intervals (at least once per r season). Check the gearcase at 50 hour imtmrals between lubricant changes. ue s C3uyskrRI.S. M a h e Gear Lube. If this is nat available, use a high quality mmammive EP. 90 outboard gear

CAUTION Do not use regular automotive grease in the pawme. Its expansion andfoam &m&&iu M not suitable for

preckdure. 1 . ~ t l r e e e g i e e o o ~ a n d ~

*rnplseW@*asadatyimcr\ltioato*
preventmyaeoMaeOals6arriagofk~ 2. PlaGe a under tba fllUd& (F'iprs 3) o draia plug r d n Emom it, Wemrrve vent plU& fh.ain lutwkmt born the gearass. I

~~

*
r

'
&
~

.i

. - I

N r n ~tktdriElatiscmmyinodaar

~~aoclbrrnriinSSap3.
~

i t e t r n . l? lxrttxt the cam? g f t b ~& a

pMMCm.

an automotive t p grease gun and Rykon ye No. 2EP grease.

CAUTZON

W e lubricating the steering cable on hn modek so equipped, make sure its core
isfully retracted into the cable housing. Lubricating the cable while extended can cause a hydraulic lock to occur.

salt water C

o d of Cecucaae Beariq Cage or Spool

Salt water corrosion that is allowed to build up unchecked can eventually split the gearcase and destroy the lower unit. If the motor is used in -&t water, remove the propeller assembly, zinc anode or bearing cage cap and the bearing cage or spool (Figure 19, typical) at least once a year after the initial 30-hour inspection. Clean all corrosive deposits and dried-up lubricant from each end of the cage or spool. Install new O-rings on cage or spool, wipe O-rings with ChryslerN.S. M r n Lubricant aie part No. T 2961 and install spool with new O-ring seals on spool bolts. If a zinc an& cover is used, apply a liberal amount of M t e No. 75 (part No. T 2963-1) to the anode screw threads. On models without the anode, coat the cap screw thRads with anti-seize compound part No. T 2987-1. Coat propeller shaft splines w t anti-seize ih compound and install propeller. STORAGE The major consideration in preparing an outboard motor for storage is to protect it &om rust, corrosion and dirt. Chrysler/U.S. Marine recommends @e following procedure. I. Remove the engine cover. 2. Operate the motor in a test tank or on the boat in the water. Start the engine and run at fast idle until warmed up. 3. Diawnnect the fuel line and let engine run W pouring 2 oz. of a good r s preventive ut

oil into each carburetor throgt. L t engine e &all out, indicating that the carbmetor(s) have run completely dry. 4. Remove motor from water. Drain all fuel

lines and carbmetor(s). I 5 Remove spark plng(s) as described in this . chapter. Pour about one ounce of CbrydebA3.S. Marine Outboard Ol into each i spark plug hole. T r engine over by hand un revaal times to distribute the oil throughout
the cylioder(s). Reinstall spark plugs. 6. Senicc the fuel tank filter as follows: a h m e c t the fitel line at the tank

h Unthread and remove the tank adapter. .

c Remove the hose clamp holding the . i i k scnar to the pick-up end of the sdapter. d, i&wrrowths ween, rinse it in clean beswine d blow low-pnssun

rsdPpter.

1
C

g Isal pump bracket to power head. ntl 10. Check fuel filter instahtion for leakage By priming fuel system wt fuel line primer ih bulb. 11. Drain and refdl gaarcase as described in this chapter. Check condition of vent, fill or Wdrain plug gaskets. Replace as r q i e . eurd 12. Refer to Figurea 5-18 and T b e 2 as al appropriate and lubricate motor at all specifled points. See Table 3 for recommended lubricants. 13. Clean the motor, including all accessible power head parts. O a t &h a good marine-type wax. Isal the engine cover. ntl 14. Remove the propeller and lubricate propeller shaft splines with anti-seize compound (part No. T 2987-1). Reinstall the prower. 15. Store the motor upright in a dry and well-ventilated area. 16. M c e the battery as follom a Dsonc the negative battery cable, icnet then the positive battery cable. b. Remove all grease, d o n and dirt from the battery surface. c. Check the electrolyte level in each itle battery cell and top up with d s i l d water, if ncoessary. Fluid level in each cell should not be higher then 3/16 in. above the perforated bailla. d Lubricate the tenninal bolts with grease or petroleum jelly.
CAUTION A discharged Battery can be d a m p i
by freezing.

plates with distilled water, but n than 3/16 in. above the M e s . The charge rate exceed 6 amps. Discontinue when the specific gravity at 80' F (27' C). g Befm placing the battery back service after winter storage, excess grease from the leaving a small amo battery in a M y charged state. COMPLETE SUBMERSION An outboard motor which has been 1 overboard should be recovered as quickly possible. If the motor was submerged, disassemble immediately-any delay will result and corrosion of internal components has been removed from the water. If motor was not running and appears to undamaged mechanically with no abreei dirt or silt inside, take the foll emergency steps immediately. 1. Wash the outside of the motor with water to remove weeds, mud and debris.

e. With the battery in a M y charged

condition (spedlc gravity 1.260-1.275), store in a dry place where the temperature will not drop below
- t'J&dwge the battery every i s &ys or r' e v " t e specific gravity drops h . bdrpevcL230. Betbra charging, cover the
.4

fnaink

MAINTENANCE AND
xi move the engine cover. salt water, flush motor ly with fresh water and spray entire head with UPS1 Lubricant (part No. T

mechanical then correct. If the engine Q $ B be started within 2 hours, dkawmble, and oil all parts thoroughly as soon gg possible.

plug@) as described in
CAUTION

ANTICORROSION MAINTENANCE
1. Flush the cooling system with fresh water

Do not force the motor if it does not iwn wer freely by hand in Step 5. T i hs

as described in t i chapter after each timS hs motor is used in salt water. W s extcaion ah
with fresh water. 2. Dry exterior of motor and apply primor over any paint nicks and scratches. U e only s Chrysler/U.S. Marine Boat White Laoqu~ (part No. 5H134). Do not use paints containing mercury or copper. Do not paint sacrificial anodes. 3. Spray power head and al electrid l connections with a good quality corrosion and rust preventive. 4. Check sacdlcal anodes. R p a e any that elc are less than half their original size. 5. Lubricate more frequently than spe&ed in Table 2. If used consistently in salt water, reduce lubrication intervals by one-half.

Manually rotate the hand with the spark plug hole&)

ponents and spray I Lubricant (part No. T 8969).

On models with an integral fuel tank, &ah the tank and flush with fresh gasoline a i all water has been removed. tl

I
I

CAUTION If there is a possibility that sand may haw entered the power head,do not t d to start the motor or severe internal dcunage may omu.

ENGINE FLUSHING
Periodic engine flushing will prevent salt or silt deposits from accumulating in the watar pasageways. This procedure should also be performed whenever an outboard motor ks operated in salt water or polluted water. , , Keep the motor in an uptight po&i011 during and after flushing. This prevenOswaEQ from passing into the power head thro-M drive shaft housing and exhaust g M t s m the flushing p d u r e . I

Ty starting the motor with a fresh fuel r

If motor will start, let it run at least m hour to eliminate anv water remahim e
CAUTION If it is not possible to disassemble and clan the motor immediately in Srep 11, ndmrgp it in water to prevent rust and corrosion formation until it cdn be properly serviced.

;
=-

1
I

'

_'

I dl. IfthexnotmwillnotstartinStep l0,try

' 0

the cause as fuel, electrical or

m
3. Open the water tap partially-do not use filll pressure. 4. Shift into NEUTRAL, then start motor. Keep engine speed between 800-1,100 rpm. 5. Adjust water flow so that there is a shght loss of water around the rubber cups of the flushing device. 6. Check the motor to make sure that water is being discharged from the "tell-tale" nozzle. If it is not, stop the motor immediately and determine the cause of the problem.
Flush the motor for at lemt 5 minutes if used in salt water.

R FOUR

CAUTION

7. Flush motor until discharged water is clear. Stop motor. 8. Close water tap and remove flushing device from lower unit.

A tune-up consists of a series of inspections, adjustments and parts replacements to compensate for normal wear and deterioration of outboard motor components. Regular tune-ups are important for power, performance and economy. w e r / U . S . Marine recommends that outboards be &ced every 6 months or 100 hours of operation, whichever comes first. If subjected to limited use, the engine should be tuned at least once a year. Since proper outboard motor operation depends upon a number of intenelated system functions, a tune-up conding of only one 'or two comctions will seldom give lasting results. For pest results, a thorough and systematic procedure of analysis and correction is neoessary. Priar to performing a tune-up, it is a good idea to flush the motor as described in this ohapter and check for satisfactory water pump operation.

The tune-up sequence recommended by Chrysler/U.S. Marine includes the following: a. Compression check. b. Cylinder head bolt torque. c. Spark plug service. d. Gearcase and water pump check. e. Fuel system service. f Ignition system service. . g. Battery, starter motor and solenoid check (if so equipped). h. Wiring harness check. i. Timing, synchronization and adjustment. j Performance test (on boat). . Any time the fuel or ignition systems are adjusted or defective parts replaced, the engine timing, synchronization and adjustment must be checked. T e e procedures are hs described in Chapter Five. Perform the timing, synchronization and adjustment procedure for your engine running the performance test.

wr o e

COMPRESSION CHECK An accurate cylinder compression check gives a good idea of the condition of the basic working parts of the engine. It is also an important first step in any tune-up, as a

or unequal compression cannot be satkfactorily compression problem discovered check m s be corrected before ut with the tuneup procedure. J. With the engine warm, disconnect t e h & plug wire(s) and remove the plug(s) as ~ k x i b e d t i chapter. in h s 2. Ground the spark plug wire(s) to the !eagineto disable the ignition system. '3. Connect the compression tester to the top 'pperk plug hole according to manuhturer's i h c t i o m (Fi22). 4. Make sure the throttle is set to the wide 1 .open position and crank the engine through at least 4 compression strob. R c r the eod &gaugereading. 5. Repeat Step 3 and Step 4 on each cylinder 'of multi-cylinder engines. While minimum cylinder compression should not be less than shown in T b e 4, the al iaotual nadings are not as important as the difkmces between cylinders when inmprethg the results. A A t i o n of more than 10-15psibeftveen2cyiindaPs~tesa problem with the lower reading c y h k r , such as worn or sticking piston rbga and/or seond pisUmsorcyhders.Insuchcases,poura taMespoon of engine ol into the suspect i cylinder and repeat step 3 and Step 4.9f the compression is raised significantly (by 10 psi in an older engine), the rings are worn and I should berepla&. Many outboard engineg are plegued by hard startiqg and generally poor running for which there seems to be no good cause. aed ignition check out f ImWktorily and a compression test may ' showthateverythingiswellintheengiue's wm end. What a campression test does not show is , lack of p h w y campression. In a 2-stmke cggine, the @ankape must be altemakly r d . ~ p r r r . . n d i o w p a n o . ~ i $be piston d w the intake port, further

downward movement of the pistoncaumtb entrapped mixture to be pressurizad KI wt i can rush quickly into the cylinder when t$t scavenging port0 a opened. Upvmd p t n hm movement creates a lowex prrasun in t M crankcase, enabling f u e l 4 mixture to pasl in from the carburetor. When the rrankshaft seala or case gash@ leak, the -case cannot hold pregsure a d proper engine operation becomes impossible, Any other s of leakage, such as defective o w c y h k r base gaskets or a porous or cracked crankcase casting, will result in the same conditions. If the power head shows signs of overheating ( d i s c o l d or scorched paint) but the compression test turns up n abnormal, check the cylinder@) visually through t e 'transfer ports for possible h wring. A cylinder can be slightly s o e and crd still deliver a relatively good compression reading. In such a case, it is also a good idea to double-check t e water pump operation as h a possible cause for overheating.

CYLINDER HEAD BOLT TORQUE Loosen each bolt and retorque t o spdicatims in Table 5. Refer to Chaptq N n for the proper tightening scqneac?l ie according to engine.
CAUTION Exepssive torque will &ort

.. . .

.
& ?
.LG

SPARK

SPARK CUM ANALYSIS

foul or overheat. In such cases, check ignition and carburetion systems to & sure they are operating correctly. If no defect is found, replace the spark plug w t one o a ih f hotter or colder heat range as required. Table 6 contains the recommended spark pluge f q all models covered in this book. Table 7 provides a cross-reference for use when Champion spark plugs are not available.
Spark Plug Removal
CAW I O N Whenever the spark plugs are removed, dirt around them can fall into the plug holes. This can cause engine damage that is expensiw to repaar.

SPARK n0ANALYSIS u (SURFACE OAP SPARK CUIQ.)

~.-tmormool#.d --th.i*mgku/-

8yaam cffdi(bn in good. U.o*od.w n r

~nOnndrprZro(dbn.

R wont~~I-~xwa~o.*cbod.rrw
c m c r ~ h ~ d m n g ~ r . ~ ~ ~ ~ duflng C. C o # l ~ W . t o Y o r ~ d q I o e n m amGUU.dbyYdmmhg"~k.withmw hwlnJIduciqcrrmhg,w.nichcuburUm or m inywqwr hwl.0il We& willmkocanbibut.m(hincondlSlon D arbon . condwtk. d.pol#lon*~.ndprovid.. bw-mbmwp.mforh.~

. -

1. Blow out any foreign matter from around the spark plugs with compressed air. Use a compressor if you have one. If you do not, use a can of compressed inert gas, available from photo stores. 2. k m e c t the spark plug wires by twisting the wire boot back and forth on the plug insulator while pulling outward. Pulling on the wire instead of the boot may cause internal damage to the wire. 3. Remove the plugs with a 13/16 in. @ m plug socket or box end wrench. KeQp thg

CubontncL.torm8ndcmuuulnwbv8.

E.l2lmwm&--.bnonnLkI*cll~.*c*lcb -*flh. --wNp bNhpchrrg..*ihd*#.f(-nductM*

8ndwwO8ion.

seldom

v@$

Newplu%ss8ouklbe~ygeppad~
osurcarrliahle,coosttpatmd~Usea llperjal mark &W with a win gauge. See

~25foroly;commcmtype. 1.Removethe~andgaskcts~tbe
~ I l l s t d l ~ ~

2. ~ a 0 . 0 3 O i n . w i r r g 8 ~ b e l w s m t h e electFodca lfthe gap is anrrct,these wl be a il

aaightdra,gasthewireisplIledthrough.rf isn nod fag or if thew in will not pull through, bend the side elscrrode w t the ih gappiPg~~27)tochange~ita~. Remaam with the win m. a-N
NnrrbrptC?~*gp,by tapphg the qpadt *-)a#- S' lpJlJl al&ce. Th& erm dmrrqBr ?Br bfrcp' intemollp. Always use the p p p i q and w n tool to open or close &e gap. ig

wm-

reconnectiagittoitscylinder.

~ - r m ~ ~ c m i s a m o f ~ m o s t
makesureit~~~tsmy.

mla=

GEARCASE AND WATER PUMP QfECB Afaultywaterplmporonethat

pumIz

*.*Th% it gaPkatsonceayeugnhmwWthe
unitisremovedfol.~.~Chapber

in by hand until it maw,

The choks

m m ~ = -

egivm-

insidGtbefUalpumpanthelowaMtLu: MtiogA~othamoddsusea6lWacra(s

htdlcdinthcasdimentbowlattadted0the

fuel Pump.
1. aisconncctthcftelliueatthclowerpump

Wb.
screw.
acrCCa

2.RrmovethelowaplmpMtinewithaa

opeaclld-.

3. R s m o m ~ d k a r d t h e f i l t e r ~ o a thn end d the pump fi4. Install a new on the pump fittisg
5 . ~ 6 t t i n g t o g u m p r e d ~ Wliaeto~ 6.Chcckfilteriudh1thfor-b pamiaBfiIel~withthefuelLine~

IS in. whea the choke is closed or a h a d

coaditionwillrewrlt.When~ ane of&ss~line aothtt, h -may to to readjust the carbwetw idle needle slightly (1/4 tuna) to the variatioas in vob&ty.

1.RemovetlWWpmnpacdimaravt

2 RrmumtheaedimentbowlrtlLdfhf .
the pumppump 3. Remove and

clean ca ~ P I W Bb t

4.lnstP11thebltcr!4clcmTlt*

fuel lines for k i d 6

mmmr W $ c Puel pump dm ' w

from the

into the line M w t m he earburelor(&) a d wpump.IEequippadwiEhttRinfuelpumpsd

cannectthepressure-*wintothew

mhknu~lednutonthewireM

bctweenthe2~psatttl~pump testthelowetpwsg.Totesttb~~ ctimnnect the fuel Wet line at t e -1 h pump and the line between the 2 pump i d theupperpunr~~Movethc~tiie inlbtlinefromtlaebwerpumptothe~ pumpandcannedit&itlmpztmpwiththeOee and pressure gauge in place o the line f bowf with a new gasket, l n t l a n d ~ ~ beweenthe2~uzll~~.
tank vent captor&m'~mypaseurein ohs

~Btartinstbq~loosenthefuel

' a ~ ~ f i l t e r i n ~ t i o n f r n W w b y ontheboatinthewatcz,~fUdfpum m fuelsystemwiththefaeliiueplimez -mudheat-

sy3tcm.Withtlxe&n~mn&ginaWtank

a lpsiat600nm b. 1.5 psl at 2,500-3,000 v.

not mmw taquire dwing a tune-up. However, if the
a'.2.5psia4,Wrflrm.

nmv

1
1
'

. ,'2- ,

Chapter su.

"

"

and one.

and gap d th* tnwlm p o i o a r , ~ & m t s s n ~ ~.tBon. BUrncdor~oAkS38ad~iswlUallow

The &tion

,, .

~~t

.voltage allowwill &t toinbuild up , u3t and the coil a weak

temporary measure, as the mhts may arc after6ling.~dirtyoroilyBointscan

efficient sngiw The cn o-*a

abwrbg the surge d high v 0 1 ~ ~ ~ 6 0 i l a n d ~ ~ G u from a d n g aorsrrsthe points when they opm.

Magneto P a e Breaker Point lt

Replacement (l-cylinder Models) Refer to Figwe 29 for this procedure.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, if so

2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 4. Remove the 2 screws holding the breaker point set to the stator plate. 5. IXscmmect the coil and condenser leads at the breaker point set. Remove the breaker

can be tested as deaibed in

new breaker points are installed.
NOTE Breaker points must iw a$lusted c o ~ l yAn error in gap of 0.0015 in. . will change ew'ne timing hy as much a8 one degree. Wiih multi-cylinder Rlodels, vvaricioas in the gap between sets wn t h w timing off by
spwnrl degrees.

6. Remove the screw holding the condenser to the stator plate. Remove the condenser. hold-down SEEN. 8. Install a new condenser on the stator plate and tighten attaching screw securely, then m n c the Goil and condenser leads to the n et breaker point set
CIUTION
Do not over-lubricate the wick in Step 9. Excessive lubrication will cause

'

premature point set failue.

1 :

9. Squeezethecamlubewicktoseeifithas ~ ~ p o i n t s e t s ~ o n a ~ dicient lubrication, If dry, work a '@a& Ulsder the aywheel are set to 0.020 in, amount of Rykon No. 2EP (part No. 2%1$ into the wick wt your lingers. ih ; ~tbributor ignition are set to &oyhder) or 0.010 in. inthischapter. l of model. The fo b ll.Rev& Steps 1-3 to rn ChrysldS. Marine %@olve imtalktioa point gap with a flat feeler e g.Some marine mechanics prefer to set we Mpsneto P a e Breaker P i t lt oa &e gap with a test Ijght to indicate the precise position at which they open and close.
j

CA UTION Always rotate the crankshqfi in a clockwhe direction in the following proeedws. rotated in a counterclmkw& direction, the water pump impeller may be damaged.

set adjusting s a w to 0 in. when measured with The gap isiscorrect when the a a alight drag as it is slig ~ts. When the gap is con the hold-down screw securely and the point gap. a spring tension gauge (part No. T we the breaker point splrins 31) at right aagb to the
at the cater of contact. If the tension

14-28

02.

(3.6 hp) or 16-32 oz. (all

P &
Models) J Disconnect the negative battery cable. l!kbnme the W e cover. i@+bmove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. $ .&move the 2 screws holding the breaker & set to the stator plate. See Figmw 32. the coil and condenser leads at brcalrcrpOint8&t.Remavethe~

Remove the suew holding the corndenser Remove the condenser. remove the other
v breaker point'set on the

aall but do not tighten the

on the stator plate screw securely, then ndenser leads to the

SandStep9tainstallthe

Mrication will c a w

dry, work a a

wicktoseeifithas d

amount of Rykon No. 2EP @art No. 2961)

" into the wick with your fingers.

12. Adjust the breaker point gaps as described in this chapter. 13.Reverse Steps 1-3 to complete instaUation.

models until the breaker point rubbing block is about 10' beyond the top of the breaker cam ramp. On all other models, podtion the rubbing block at the highest point of the breaker cam. At this point, the breaker points will not open wider if the crankshail is turned. 3. Mark the cam opposite the rubbing block to indicate the alignment point for adjusting the other set of points. 4. T r the point set adjustin8 screw to un obtain a gap of 0.020 in. when measured with a flat feeler gauge. The gap is correct when the feeler gauge offers a slight drag as it is slippad between the points. When the gap is correct, tighten the holddown screw securely and &heck the point gap. 5. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 2 full revolutions and recheck the point gap. 6. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the cam alignment mark made in Step 3 aligns with the rubbing block on the second set of breaker points. 7. Repeat Step 4 and Step 5 to set and check the gap on the second set of points. 8. Attach a spring tension gauge @art No. T 8974) and measure the breaker point spring tension (Figure 31) at right angles to the surface at the center of contact. The conact tension depends upon the breaker points used. If the tension is not 30-40 oz. (part No. 12044), 24-32 oz. (part No. 2329-2) or 16.32 02. (all others), isal another set of poiag. ntl Distributor BrePker i Point Replacement ,,', (3- and 4-cyWer Modeb) 1. Disconnect the negative battery d. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the distributor oap the screws on the cap Figure 33. 4. Remove a h a m to the p o w a ' W ~
I :

Magneto Plate Breaker Point t (2eylinder Models) 1. Move the magneto stator r n to the ig wide-open throttle position. 2. Install the flywheel knock-off nut (used during flywheel removal) on the crankshaft. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise on alternator

CHAPTER FOUR
step4

~fitdoes~~t,~tb,is~~tepunt teadhgs are ooneia$cgpX, ff cadstency cannot be achieved, ingall aWhw set of points.

dbmrmact the lead wire.

,:&LiCbxumotthe lead wire to a new breaker
,
'
-",%*"

di&ibutor housing pivot hole. Put the point aetibtheho* 9. Install the point set atmhhg scmvs but 40 not tighten. fo. Adjust the breaker point gap as desaibbd &athis chapter. 11, Rmcree Steps 1-4 to complete haallationon

1. Check the Chapter Seven. 2. Connect a ~

&ate 'ofCharge. See

0
. .

ground.

3, T r ignition mit& t START h dcheck un o voltmeter scale: a If voltaw ex& 9.5 volts and the starter motor does not operate, replace the motor.

I .

(1., T mthe W b u t o r reky shaa mtil the ...trrealrer point Pubbirrg M & i on the high s
!'&hit done of the cam Mm. ,!b Turn the point set odjdng sornn to .,&&in a gap of0.0 1 in. (3-cykkrj or 9.0 1 4 0

points. When the gap is WIT&, the hnM-down mmw , d y and

the breaker points closed, connect a No. T 2938-1 & the

teminalsrrrewandagood

Install spling teadon

t light should go out a t

w
if vdtage is less than 9.5 volts, recheck baffsry and connections. Ccharge battery, if necespary, and repeat
STARTER RELAY/ SOLENOID CHECK (ELECTRIC START MODELS ONLY)

WIRINGHAIUYESSCHECg
~igure 37 ~ o t o r o l a ) and Fieore 38 (Prmtolite) show typical wiring h a m a instahtions. 1. Check the wiring harness for signs of frayed or chafed insulation. 2. Check for loose.connections between the wires and tenninal ends. 3. Prestolite-Check the harness connectors for bent electrical pins. Check the hamess connector and pin sockets for signs of corrosion. Clean as required 4. If the harness is suspected of contributhg l to e l d c a l malfunctions, check a l wins for c01ltinuit-y and re&ance between harness

14. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Conaect an ohmmeter between the small ;&mhals on the starter relay or solenoid See.
'Z@me 36. 'f, If the meter does not read 2.2-2.8 ohms on % e 1 s a e replace the relay or solenoid hRX c l ,

132
connection and terminal end. Repair or replace as required.

cxUPTFZMlUB
should be p e r f o m testcd with an average load and with the motor tiltad at an angle that will allow the boat to rMe an an even keel. If equipped with an adjustable trim tab, it should be properly adjusted to allow the boat to steer in either direction with equal
ease.

'

ENGINE SYNCHRONIZATION
AND ADJUSTMENT See Chapter Five.

PERFORMANCE TEST
(ON BOAT) Before performance testing the engine, make sure that the boat bottom i cleaned of s all marine growth and that there is no evidence of a "hook" or "rockern (Figure 39) in the bottom. Any of these conditions will reduce performance considerably. The boat

Check engine rpm at fl throttle. If not ul within the maximum rpm range for the motor as specified in Chapter Five, check the propeller pitch. A high pitch propeller will reduce rpm while a lower pitch prop will increase it. Readjust the idle mixture and speed under actual operating conditions as required to obtain the best low-speed engine performance.

MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

T.bk 1 Q

n ~ C O R MtO W

im

raw

la70

imti

134
T.bk 1 CHRYSUWCORCE MODIL HISTORY (eonthmd)

CHAPTER FOUR

odd

1977

1971)

1979

1 -

lael

iwa

ISW

1~8*.on

1. C h f y h r and Force models.

2. Th* 9.9 hp Force Is a ndesignatod Chrysler 15 hp.

9. The 125 hp Porn Is a mdesignated Chryslw 115 hp.

136

CHAPTER FOUR
T W . 3 RLCWYCNDCD UllMCAWlll AND S C U M T S (contlnmd)

cluyslulU...
*Mcnt

Y.rhw
U r
Scmw thmsds Cleaner Power head assembly k i l n bearing w a l gmoves

ch.mkr1U.s
PutIlo.
T 2963-2 T 8935

yrh.

Loctfte D (hrrdening)
Locqulc

Sealant primer

T.Mo 4 POWER HEAD COMPRCSSION

T 8935

srccwlcmowr*

Modoi

Compnssion (psi)

and choke linkage

M e 1 bmckat and tilt lock fhowlng wpport tuba YMuai stafter pinion gear Pmpeller shaft rplinma M e ahaft spllnes~

1. Lubricatewith Rylton No. 2EP (part No. T 2961) wny 60 &ya ((mhwater) or 30 days (=It water) u rmuirsd. Complete list doer not apply to all modols. P.r(am only (hOl. Itom whkh wply to .. your model. Refer to ownefs manual. 2. Ure Chry.ler1U.S. Marine Lubricant T 2987-1.
3. Lubricclte once each seeson.

Table 3 RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS AND SEALANTS Chry8lerlU.S. Marine lubricant Marine Lubricant (Rykon No. 2EP) Marine Gear Lubricant Outboard MUMPUIpOSe L u b r i ~ n t Anti-seize Compound LPSl Lubricant Loctite No. 75 LOCtite H (non-hardening) Use All-purpose waterproof marine grease Extreme pressure E.P.
90 gearcase lubricant

Chryaler1U.S Marine part No.

T 2981
597 5H059

Bearinga and other moving parts

Propeller shaft splines Lubricating water displacar

T 2987-1
T 8989

T 8938-1 T 2982-1

Screw thread8

MAINTENANCE AND TUNEUP

.fl
'

145-166 145-155 1*165 145-165

h k 6 CYLINDER HEAD BOLT TORQUES* b

>

madol

I .l . n.b

=hP

18661969

ion-

NA
190

NA.
44 4.B-Shp 6-6 hP nhp ROl5 hp
ap h 1-1976 lOTeon

'

190 60 130 65 190 120 1W 225 225

'

ap h
1-1976 107eon w h p M h p 70140 hp 3/1-16 bdb 5/16-16 bob

lsa
270 225

265275 220-290

138
TaMa 6 SPARK PLUQ RLCOMMLNDATIONS* Model 3.5 (1985-1989) and 3.8 hp 4.9 and %rigs 54155 5 hp 3.5 (1977-011). 4, 8 (1979-on) and 7.5 hp 20 hp (Serbs 2000) All Magnapower I1 modela, 90, 1983 115,125 and 140 hp Charger All other 2-cyllndw m o m s All other 3-cylinder modela 1. All convcHltlona1rp.fk pluga a n gappad to 0.030 In. 2 50 hp factory ncommandation la AC M42K plug. .

CHAPTER FOUR

Chmmplon .PLI* plug No.'

W L10
L88 J4.J UL18V L4.J L20V

1 0h.m-

Table 7 SPARK PLUQ CROSS-RICLRENCE CHART* NQK

Autolite

88s
BMi BSHS BUH

wis

WHX 1. Spark plugs pmdumd by different manufaclurem do not have Identical heat range chamcteriatlor. If the ape& plug ncommendsd by the engine manufacturer Is not available, urn this chall to dotennine a s u equivalent plug. ~ d 2. Champion J4J and JW plug8 are e u y ~ u by J8C; no cross-reference la avallable for J6C.

Chapter Five

Engine Synchronization and Linkage Adjustments

If an engine is to deliver its maximum efficiency and peak performance, the ignition m s be timed and the carburetor operation ut ~ c h r o wwith the ignition. This p d r n is the final step of a tune-up. It must also be performed whenever the fuel or ignition systems are serviced or adjusted. Procedures for engine synchronization and linkage adjustment on ChryslerLForce outb&ds differ according to model and ignition s s e .This chapter is dividqi into ytm self-contained &om dealing with particular modeldignition systems for fast and easy reference. Each section specilia the appropriate pmdure and sequence to be followed and provides the necessary tune-up data. Read the general information at the beginning of the ..
chapter and then select the section^

rapidly. Proper ignition timing synchronizes the spark plug firing with engine speed. As engine speed increases, the carburetor must provide an increased amount of hdfor combustion. Synchronizing is the process of timing the carburetor operation to the ignition (and thereby the engine speed).
Required E.quipment

t your outboard. o
ENGINE TlMING AND SYNCHBONIZATION As engine r m increases, the ignition p s s e m s fin the spark plug(s) more ytm u t

Chrys1erlU.S. Marine recommends that static timing of an engine with a baalrn point ignition be done by setting t Fhl b gap with a feeler gauge. A test hllW W ohmmeter can also be used to set t h t Y m point gap. be lrsed to A stroboscopic timing light check timing m r rd@meS +on some ak models. As the engine is ~pscotad, the light flashes each time tho plug fires. when the light is pOintd aS dm moving flywheel, the mark on tht fiplbod to stand still. The flysphaaa a W k should align with the statithing poinbsr on the engine.

CHAYrnR FIVE

A tachometer cor111ected to the engine is used to determine engine speed during idle

and high-speed adjustments.

CAUTION Never opemte the engine without water circulating t h g h the gearcase to the hs engine. T i will damage the water pump and gearcase and c y cause engine damage.

2. Make sure throttle link is installed in the throttle shaft lever hole nearest the throttle ,shaft.
3. Loosen the throttle bellcrank swivel screw and push the throttle bellcrank against the stator throttle cam.
4. Lightly depress the brass throttle link enough to take up all play in the swivel. Do

Some form of water supply is required whenever the engine is operated during the procedure. Using a ts tank is the most et convenient method, although the procedures may be canied out on land with a flushing device or with the boat in the water.
CHRYSLER OUTBOARDS 3.5 HP (1-1969)
I

not push down hard enough to move the throttle lever. Hold the pressure on the link and tighten the swivel screw.

5. Retard the magneto control lever and then slowly advance it until the throttle shaft lever starts to move. The magneto control lever should be aligned with the idle adjustment screw (Figwe 1).
6. If the lever and screw are not properly aligned in Step 5: a. Move the swivel down on the brass link if the pick-up point is too early.

Throttle Pick-up Point Adjustment 1. Align the magneto control lever with the carburetor idle adjustment screw. See Figure
1.

7. Tum the idle adjuishmt counterc10~cloNise until the eugb

,-

the screw slot setthg. 8. Turn the idle adjustment sctew

td, . i

9. Move the magneto control lever to the, wideopen throttle position. 10. T u n the high-sped adjustment s a ~ w clockwise until the engine starts to .* Note the position of the adjutamit s a ~ ~

11. Turn the high-speed adjustment y counterclo&wk until the engine speed becomes rough and starts to Motrc the adjustment screw knob pointer psition. 12. T r the-high speed adjustment screw to un \ a midpoiit between the setkgs noted in Stap / : b . M m t h e s w i w l a p . o n t b ~ ~ ~ ~1 o d s t e p 1 1 . if . the pick-up poiat is too late. 13. Looam the adjusting h o b setsmew and @on the p i t r so that it is vertical. Sac one ;i' . . Fsr 3. Tighten the setmew. ipe ' Q*lraatsrment GHRYSLER OUT&OARRs 3.5 HP (19800N) B s ~ t hidle adjustment screw Screwoc~ e AND 4 HP (1979-0N) lightly seats in the carburetor (Figwe &I% not turn craw tightly into carburetor Throttle cw~t4,willbedamsgmd t Point AdjPsbnent 2. Baek the serew out one full turn. 1. Remove the engine cover. , , 2. Advaace the throttle control until tedQ 3. Repeat Step I and Step 2 with the h&@ iadjustment.smw. Dhgwd t e h position of the high-speed a d m . ' . w m v kmb at 'this time, thecammarkSeeFigme4,.

.
.,

4.start~~-a~warmtoncanal

ogmuingm-

5. s e f t h e ~ t t k ? ~ c o d t r o l t o ~ l a w a s t ~ ~ t b g e n g i n e w i l l s u n ~ y .
6. Twntheidk
d6 0.

t
'
I I

1. Turn the idle ad,iustment screw clockwise u t l it lightly seats in the carburetor (Fisore ni 5). Do not turn screw tightly into carbweto~ or the tip will be damaged. 2. Back the screw out one r ltum. l 3. Start the motor and warm to nonnal operating temperature. 4. Move throttle to SHIFT position and shift engine into FORWARD. 5. Set the throttle lever control to the lowest setting where the engine will run smoothly. 6. Turn the idle adjustment screw dockwise until the glgine starts to misfire. Nt the oe position of the adjustment screw slot. 7. Turn the idle adjustment screw counterclockwise until the e n g h speed becomes rough and starts to decmse. N t oe
thescrewslotEettin& 8. Turn the idle adjustment screw to a midpoint between the sethgs noted in Step 6

!
L

and Step 7. 9. Adjust the suppart plate idle atop to bring the idle speed to 800-1,000 rpm in gear. 10. Install the engine cover. CHBYSLER OUTBOARDS 3.6 HP (1970-1977)

AND 4 HP (19764978)
t 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Move the throttle cam forward until it just contads the roller on the throttle shaft lever.

CArnON
Excessive bending o the throttk sJlqft f lever in Step 3 may loosen the lever on the shqt?. Do not bend rhronle shqt? under any circumstances.

31 If the throttle a m m r does not align ak ~ t the center of the roller at the point of h hitid O Q B bend the throttle shaft kver ~ ~ * a o s e pliw until proper alignment
&&&~~~d.$eeFigllre6. &-With tha osrn mark and roller aligned at

tb~~miat,&eckthebellstudpoaition

.&

cam should be on the surface ofthe M 8 F '

away froln the ;cad of the mIler. I it is not, f recheck any adjmtment made in Btep 3.

1. Turn the idle adjustment screw c l m until it lightly seats in the wbutetor @igtee 8). Do not turn screw tightly into carbuntor o thetipwill be damaged. r 2. Backthescrewoutonefulltunt 3. Start the motor and warm to normal

operating temperature. 4. et the throttle lever control to the lowest w e e the engine will run smoothly. hr 5. T r the idle adjustment screw dockwiee un u t l the eagke starts to &. ni N t tke oe position of the adjustment s m w slot. 6. T r u n the idle adjustment mew counted* until the engine speed b s c o ~ r o u g h startsto dacrea9e. Note and tbescrewJlatssrth3g. 7. Turn the idle adjustment screw to a mid.gointbetweenthe~no~inStep5 a d Step 6. 8. Wall the +e cover.

I
I

I mm~aa u a rsr .e ~ vf etm teh~eWi xim inn0gtc ~ c dThrotUe Pi&-mp q ~ rk I h s e

&Ween the index mark$ dkmaect the
8$ltor 4ontrQl rod link.

the connector on the Iinlr. Initid i ~ - ~ t e r k t @ ~ f l i a k . e ~ M tbm the m r ofthe ball oenneL.tol,should t e k La 3 3LZ in. There should &180 be an t &mi~be;rof~~oneaohemd ~ ~ ~ r o d . 6 B a ~ 7 . T i g h t e n t h e iildmm a k r ad&stInmt. d~.~meg&atooontrollevertoh : , @on. Thf3 txuhxem I i &ouM iw:lmkmtai and the thm.ttle
1 wroate
'

5. h a a a the ball connecto~ locknuts and

Poiat Adjasbnent 1. Remove tbe engine cover. 2. Back off the idle stop smm throttle cam mark is on

*,

&lower adjusting screw (Figure 10) until the

c9m mark and roller align properly.

1. Turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise until it lightly seats in the carburetor (Figure 1 ) Do not turn screw t g t y into carburetor 1. ihl or the tip will be damaged. 2. Back the screw out one bllturn. 3. Shift the engine into NEUTRAL and turn twLct grip throttle to START position. 4. SCart the motor and wann to normal operating temperature. 5. Move throttle to SHIFT position and shift engine into FORWARD. 6. Turn the throttle twist grip clockwise to the lowest setting where the engine will run
smdy.

7. Turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise until the engine utarts to mis6re. N t the oe position of the adjwtment screw slot.

8. T r u n the idle adjustment screw c o u n t e r c l ~until the q$bw spesd

JBGINE SYNCHRONIZATION AND LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS

a*

becomes rough and starts to decFerl8e. Note the screw dot setting. 9. Turn the idle adjustment screw to a
midpoiit between the setthgs noted in Step 7 and Step 8. 10. Adjust the idle stop screw to bring the idle speed to 700 rpm in gear. 11. I s a l the engine cover. ntl CHRYSLER OUTBOARDS 6-8 HP (CD IGNITION) Tbrottle Pick-up Point Adjustment 1. Remove t e engine cover. h 2. Advance the throttle control until the edge ofthe follower aligns withthe &tor ring cam

mark. See Figure 12. The throttle shouldjucbr d begin to move at this point. 3. If the throttle does not begin to move as the follower and cam m r align in Step 1, ak turn the follower adjusting screw in or out as required until the throttle starts to move.
CPCbmetor Adjustment

1. Turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise until it lightly seats in the carburetor ( * F 1 ) Do not turn screw tightly into carburetor 3. or the tip will be damaged. 2. Back the screw out one full turn. 3. Start the motor and warm to normal operating temperame. om% it is warmed UP, allow another 1-2 minutes of idling for the recirculation system to start functioning. 4. Move throttle to SHIFT position and shift engine into FORWARD. 5. Turn the throttle twist grip clockwise t o thelowestsettingwhemtheenginewillrun smoothly. 6. Turn the idle adjustment screw wunterc1ocW until the engine speed b c m s rough and starts to decnase. Note eoe the screw slot setting. 7. Turn the idle adjustment scnw clochrvise until the engine starts to misfire. Note the psition of the adjustment screw slot. 8. Turn the idle adjustment scnw to a m d o n between the setthgs noted in Step 7 ipit and Step 8. 9. Adjust the idle stop screw (Figure 1 )t4 4 bring the idle speed to 600-750 rpm i @W. n 10. Install the engine cover.
>

49

CHRYSLER OUTBOARDS. 9 2 1 HP (19660N) .-5 , Jd Throttle Pick-up Point AdjWmmt ; I ' (1966-1982)

2. Back off idle stop SW d C I mark is on starbad side ,& follower roller. See B 4 S.>..,itr &m '

146

cA'E xlTR

FIVE

3. Advance throttle control until throttle cam just contacts follower roller. Then slowly advance the throttle cam until the throttle shaft a m just starts to move. r 4. Check throttle cam mark and roller alignment. Roller should be at or within 1/32 in. of the mark. If not, turn adjusting screw on wburetor follower (Figure 15) until alignment is correct.

Throttle Pick-up Point Adjustment (1983-011) 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Advance the throttle control until the center of the carburetor follower aligns with the stator ring cam mark. The throttle should just begin to move at this point. 3. If the throttle does not begin to move as the follower and cam mark align in Step 2, turn the follower adjusting screw in or out as required until the throttle starts to move.

Carburetor Adjustment 1. T r the idle mixture screw, clockwise un until it lightly seats in the carburetor (Figure IS). Do not turn screw tightly into carburetor or the tip will be damaged 2. Back the screw out 1 114 tums (1966-1982) or 1 turn (1983-on). 3. Start the motor and warm to normal @mating temperature. O c it is warmed up, ne ldlow another 1-2 minutes of idling for the &mulation system to start functioning. 4. Move throttle to SHIFT position and shift engine into F O R W ~ . 5. Turn the throttle control clockwise to the lowest setting where the engine will run

@ Y .

the idle mixture screw counteruntil the engine speed becomes

rough and starts to decrease. Note the s r w ce slot setting. 7. T r the idle adjustment screw clockwise un until the engine starts to misfire. Note the position of the adjustment s r w slot. ce 8. T r the idle adjustment screw to a un midpoint between the settings noted in Step 6 and Step 7. 9. Adjust the idle stop screw (Figure 15) to bring the idle speed to 700 rpm (1966-1982) or 600-750 rpm (1983-on) in gear. 10. Install the engine cover.

I
I ENGINE

SYN~ONIZATION AND LINILAGE ADJUSTMENTS

147

advance the throttle cam until the throttle shaft arm just starts to move. 4. Check throttle cam mark and roller alignment. Roller should be at or within 1/32 in. of the mark. If not, loosen screw on carburetor follower, adiust follower arm position until alignmeit is iscotrect and retighten screw. 5. Repeat Steps 2-4 to recheck pick-up point. Readjust if necessary.

Idle Stop Switch Check Earlier 20 hp manual start engines use an idle stop switch to short out the ignition when the magneto is N l y W e d . Idle stop switch adiustment should be checked on models so
&P@.

1. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 2. Rotate stator plate until centerline of idle stop switch aligns with the switch cam indent line. See Rignre 17. 3. If the switch plunger does not touch the brass contact on the breaker point terminal screw when switch and cam are w d e, loosen the 2 screws holding the cam to the transfer port cover and align plunger and contact, then retighten the screws. 4. Install the flywheel. See Chapter Eight.

CHRYSLER OUTBOARDS
20
'

HP (1966-1976)

!
:

i
1

Throttle Pick-up Poht Adjustment 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Close the throttle until the throttle cam mark is on the starboard side of the carbwm follower roller. See Figure 16. 3. Advance throttle c n r l until throttle oto a m just ma $ t c follower roller. Then slowly

Carburetor Adjustment 1. Turn the idle mixture screw clockwise until it lightly seats in the carbuntor (Flgm 18).Do not turn screw tightly into carbrPator or the tip will be damaged. 2. Back the screw out 1 1/4 turns. 3. Shift engine into NEUTRAL and twist grip to START position. 4. Start the motor and warm to operatine temperahue. 5. Move throttle to SHIFT pdtklo engine into FORWARD, 6. Turn the throttle control lowest setting whan; tba smoothly.

7. Turn the idle mixture screw counterclockwise until the engine speed becomes rough and starts to decrease. Note the screw slot setting. 8. Turn the idle adjustment scnw clookwb until the engine starts to misfire. Nota the position of the adjustment s a w slot. 9. Turn the idle adjustment gcrew to a midpoint between the settings noted in Step 7 and Step 8. 10. Adjust the idle stop screw (Filiure 19) to bring the idle speed to 700 rpm in gear. 11. I s a l the engine cover. ntl CHRYSLER OUTBOARDS 20 HP (1979-1982), 25 AND 30 HP (ALL)AND 35 HP (19761979) Throttle Pick-up Point Adjustment 1. Remove the engine cover.
CAUTION Do not disconnect throttle cam rod at the throttle cam. The pressure required to do so can dhtort the cam

1 I
.

2. Disconnect the throttle c m rod at the a magneto control lever. See Figure 20. 3. Loosen the locknut on the e a y t r i c screw holding the nylon roller to the throttle shaft
rrm.SeeFigure21. 4. Set the throttle cam mark at a point close to where it will touch the nylon roller. 5. Turn the eccentric screw until the roller is at the maximum distance from the cam mark, then turn the screw counterclockwise until the roller barely touches the cam mark. 6, Tighten eccentric screw locknut, taking care not to turn the s r w ce. 7. Tear a s a l strip%m a sheet of writing ml

andi insert it between the cam and roller

from the top, then from the bottom. Note the I/iylbbtween the mu mark and paper edge. If
~Wthgapsmequa&thecammarkisatthe mittex of ita contact with the roller. !ke

D G E ADJUSTMENTS
Figure 22. If it is not, repeat the screw adjustment. 8. Reconnect throttle cam rod to control lever. Rotate magneto until the n a throttle stop on the stator ring rests aguhwd the cylinder. See Fignre 23. ~ide-efpQ1 throttle mark on cam should inttmxt roller. 9. If cam mark does not intersect roller in Step 8, dkonnect the throttle cam rod h m the magneto wntrol lever. Loosen the jam nuts and rotate the rod to lengthen or s h it as required. See Figme 24. Recollnect rod and recheck cam marwroller intenecth, Repeat this step until the mark i n t e r n the roller when the rod is W e d , then tighten jam nuts. 10. Check the throttle shutter position w t ih the magneto at wide-open throttle position and the wide-open throttle mark on the cam intersecting the roller. If the shutter is not h o r i a a , rttpeat Steps 1-9.

Throttle Stop Adjnstment (Manual Start Modela) The setmew should touch the stedtg handle wall when the wide-open tbuo#le mark on the cam intemects the roller. If.& does not, adjust the screw in the throttle See Figure 25.

<;,:

SET @CREW

7. Thtgad the timing tQal band

in*

completely.
w t its 2 ideatifiation marks r t- 5 ih 2i5 t o d the outside. The dktaaa?

1:
'

~P~ OUTBOARDS - 35 AND 45 HP (19660NA 50 HP (1946 AND 19&14BQ AND 55 HF (1%7-1976)

NOTE #& w&&@ b ;rated tm fnr iti S 11, t b aUer t n rod mark will @ Wg p hyod &tke gdge ofthe timing tad h l . lf ohis r u r p p s reaerri the st*-do not try to position t k d marEr bp mating rAe & W countcrel~~.

Ir. ~ ~ i ~ ~ ~ i g thtradbapevat it fmm f&ootinoawb the piston w e o n stFdre,

t ~ '1

txanwdi olochviae' almost ooa

the*

& Remove the engine cover.

until the

% Remove all mark p l w h m the.power

T%93%Jol.3ZlpartNn.T29LG See Chagter Four. 4~ t h e p m p e r ~ ~ ~ . ~ i s o n e TIX. 12. Discoma the t h m b W @, with the miid ShaffPlaeetoWersbaft

& -

the Bywheel. S*e Chapter E@t, rrnd aajust taegker points ,as h,.eaar of 0&01S~hb the pap in :4%4gimtiminsasmuchas ,. .. . . .

aloohvise to the

JNKAGE ADJUSTMENTS

7. Thread the timing tool barrel in tha tql?. cylinder spark plug hole and screw it b completely. 8. Isal the timing tool rod into the banisl ntl with its 2 identification marks ("25-55 toward the outside. The distance k&mmt#u? 2 marks equals 28' (part No. T 8938) or 3 1 (part No. T 2937-1). 9. While holding the r d tightly against the o pbton, rotate the crankshaft clocbbe t o locate t p dead center (TDC). This ia tba o point at which the marks on the timing t d rod aie at a maximum distance h m the barrel. See A, Figure 29. 10. T r a the timing tool barrel in or out as hed required to align the inner timing rod mark with the edge of the barrel. See B, Figure 29.

NOTE
i f the cmnkshqff is rotated too far in Step 1 I, the outer timing rod mark will go beyond the edge of the timing tool b a d i f this happens, q w a t the

step-do not try to position the rad mark by rotating the crankshqft countewI0ckwise.

a HP (1966 AND 1981-ON),

55 HP (1967-1976)
the negative battery lead. &move the engine cover. h o v e all spark plugs from the power @. '&Chapter Four. &+W proper timing tool. There is one the dmd aspeeially for 35 and 45 hp manual

11. Apply slight linger pressure on the end of the rod to prevent it from shooting out dm& the piston compression stroke. Rotate cranlrshaA clockwise=almost one fdl mu until the outer timing rod mark aligns a n i the edge of the barrel. See Rgam 30. T b piston is now positioned exactly 28' @& Mo, T 8938) or 32' (part No, T 2937-1) TDC. 12. Disconnect the throttle Gnlr at h f t . Place tower shaft in position by rotating it

v35-53 hp modeh. ' $bnov@ flywheel. See Chapter Eight. the &bdt and adjust breaker points as & & b a r r o t of 0.0015iinch in thegap g $jagdl snginetimingasmuchas

testsagainstthecylitldm 13A. Battery breaker point 13B. Magneto igaigloa

1.

. @--a

& 1cyhitder-pointldeda w e ..& iLaosen the locknut on the spa& aontrol

12-dtestlamp-the

p"
r* Y

a.i@l@Ire 3Q If light is m,rotate

'
sag aff.

o~n-1.

fink~0~~1111ffll~rtimsor

~oloehRiPeuetllli%htjusff~~mcsoa. M RoOate ganlcshaa Wk and &h. The : wlidht-mpod&offae~ r o d m a r k ~ - ~ ~ o toal ~ f Irernl. 17. Hold the spark em-1 link ia pgsltion 4 - t$le the locknut B diltn 18. Rembvc the t$ h & tbot. R&3tali the aywhed (cbmx Eight]. Rciwau tlm spark

b. ~ m ~ p i s r ~$~ ~ k e a n t r o l o

Pluaa

I. Dhmmat thb tbrsttle link ball-pint bonnectorathe-MSee-32. .

2. L o o w n t & m o r o n t h ' c ~ t r i c ~ ~thenylonmllert0tbcthrottk:elurff smr, thcn W t lookrmt just magti t tn o

slly-bstRlrcenthum, ~ , ~ ~ f u l d l u b d n u t . S s t 3. 3

b
R D ' ~ i t w M ~ t l n t ~ ~ v Tr)!Tfxrntheeerccntr$c~lstPtntlgrrdisris

e%-<.lhnaeoc:fromem
~ ~ t
~

u
~ ~

n
e i

l
O

t
B

h
r n

s
d .

6 3 ~ o tfie cmlsnd mn'g

bottomNotetb

I*

S~CHRONIZATIONAND LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS

A -

until the mark intemcts the roller d m t b rod is installed, then tighten jam nllta . 9. Check the throttle sh-r positim nriJIt the tower shaft at its wide-open thrattb position and the wide-open throttle marlr rn the cam intemdngthe roller. I f t h e m is not horizontal, repeat Steps 1-8.

1. Connect a tachometer according to m a n u f w s inshuctim. 2. Remove the carburetor intake cover d gaskets, if so equipped. 3. Turn the idle adjustment screw clcukwk until it lightly seats in the carbuntor 33). Do not turn screw tightly into carburetor or the tip will be damaged. 4, BBClE the sCnw out 1 114 turns. 5. StriR engine into NEUTRAL and m a t n twist gtip to START position. 6. Start the motor and run at 2,000 rpm udzil it reaches operating temperature. O c it is ne warmed up, allow another 1-2 minutes of idling for the recirculation system to stsrt functioning. 7. Move throttle to SHIFT Dosition and engine into FORWARD.
gap between the cam mark and paper kdge. If

.-

both gaps are equal, the cam mark is at the center of its contact with the roller. See Fignre 34. If it is not, repeat the eccentric serew adjustment. 7. Reconnect throttle link to tower shaft. Rotate magneto until the nylon throttle stop on the tower shaft rests against the cylinder. See Figure 35. The wide-open throttle mark on the cam should intersect the roller. 8. If cam mark does not intersect roller in Step 7, disconnect the throttle link from the tower shaft See F i e 36. Loosen the jam nuts and rotate the rod to lengthen or shorten it as required. Reco1111ect rod and recheck c9m mark/roller intemction. Repeat this step

smoothly. 9. T r the idle adjustment screw un clockwise 1/8 turn at 10 seoonds between

CHAPTER
11. Turn the idle adjustment screw to a midpoint between the settings noted in Step 9 and Step 10. 12. Quickly open the throttle. If the engine dies, it is too lean. Tum the adjustment screw counterclockwise. If the engine stumbles, it is too rich. Turn the screw clockwise. 13. Adjust the idle speed screw to bring the idle speed to 750 + 50 rpm in gear. 14. On models equipped with a neutral warm-up speed screw on the end of the gear shift arm, shift the engine into NEUTRAL and open the throttle fully. If the tachometer does not read 1,500-1,800 rpm, adjust the warm-up speed screw as required. Choke Solewid Adjustment 1. Loosen the screw holding the solenoid plunger to the choke lever. 2. Slip a small piece of writing paper about 1/2 in. wide into the carburetor air horn. The paper w i l l provide suflicient clearance to prevent the choke shutter from sticking closed. 3. Hold the choke lever in the closed position and depress the solenoid plunger (not the rod) until it bottoms in the solenoid, then tighten the choke lever screw. 4. Pull the paper from the air horn. There should be a slight drag as tde paper is removed. If drag is excessive, repeat Step 3. 5. I s a l the carburetor intake cover with ntl new gaskets. 6. Install the engine cover.

FIVE

CHRYSLER OUTBOARDS
55 HP (1977-1980), 60 HP (1974-1976), 65 HP (1977-1978), AND 105, 129 AND 135 HP (1975-1977)

2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove all spark plugs from the power head. See Chapter Four. 4. 55-65 hp-Check and adjust breakm points as required. An error of 0.001 5 inch in the gap setting will change engine timing as much as 1 degree. 5. Thread timing tool barrel (part No. T 2937-1) into the top cylinder spark plug hole 'and screw it in completely. 6. Install the timing tool rod in the barrel with its 2 identification marks ("25-55 HP") toward the outside. 7. While holding the rod tightly against the piston, rotate the crankshaft clockwise to locate top dead center (TDC). This is the point at which the marks on the timing tool rod are at a maximum distance from the barrel. See A, F i e 29. 8. Thread the timing tool barrel in or out as required to align the inner timing rod mark with the edge of the barrel. See B, F g r 29. iue
NOTE If the crankshnf? is rotated too far in Step 9, the outer timing rod mark will go beyond the edge of the timing tool barrel. If this happens, repeat the step-do not try to position the rod mark by rotating the crankrhaj counterclockwise.

w m MAGNAPOWER n IGNITION

EBsine Tmn iig

1. IXummect the negative battery lead.

t
[

EEN;INE ~ C H R O N I Z A T I O N AND LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS

mark on the decal should align withi* auburctos adapter flange index lnarL (W hp) or timing pin- index mark (105, m'
and 135 hp).

WARNING
Donotattemptto@Uctthetowrrsh@ link with the s n g r ' ~ running. It is dan to the flywheel riag gvar a d serlouJ personal injury con tesult.
%

14. Ifthetimingmarfrsdonotdgninstep 13, retard the engine and shut it off. Loown.

thelocknutonthetowcrshaRlink&ths flywheel and rotat& the link clockwiw t o advance or counterclockwise to retard the
9. Apply slightfisserpresanneontheendof itherodtopre~~lltitfromshOatingoutduring piston compressian a 5 R % bme .crankshaft clockwise almost one full turn u t l the outer timing rod mark digas with ni the edge of the barrel. See Figure 30. The piston is now positioned exactly 32' before TDC. 10. Make sure the 32 degree mark on the Bywheel ring gear decal aligns with the index marlc at the k p of the carburetor adapter huge (55-65 hp) or timing pointer index mark (105, 120 and 135 hp). If it does not, install a new decal. I 11. Removethetimingtool andreinstallthe spark pw Connect a timing light according l . t manuhturer's instructions. o 12. With the engine in a test tank or on the boat in the water, place the throttle at the full retard W o n and crank the engine over whila pointkg the timing light at the flywheel tiBPing m r s If the TDC mark on the timing ak. decal does not align f 3' with the carburetor adapter flange index mqrk (55-65 hp) or &hgpointerindexmark(l05, 120and 135 49,-S(eps 3-11. ! B. S M the engine and bring its speed up to 4750-5250 rpm (1980-011 55 hp) or othem). Point the timing "xBDp5,sOO qnn -st Plve ftywlheal timing mark. The 32'
~asnquin&See~38.Oncrll turn of the link equals about a 2 dagm change in timing 15. Restarl the engine and recheck any tp adjustment made in Step 14. Repeat S e 14 as muid u t l the timing marks aligp. ni When adjustment is correct, shut the e n g h off and tighten the tower shaft link locknut securely.

4
A

7' ,

.
. .
-

1. Remove the carburetor intake mver and gaskets, if so equipped. 2. Disconnect the tower shaft throttle link at the throttle cam. Move c m away ,@oip a carburetor throttle roller.

abrtr throttle tie bar to the top c r u e o tkq&b

arm.

4. Locwen the throttle tie b a r s a w 39). 5. Make sure the throttle shuttenr
6. Operate the tie bar
goes in and out of the

without binding.

Choke Shntter Synchranbdon Refer to Figure 41 for this p u m .

Adjust thi throttle pick-up *point as desrhd Madsr 35 and 45 hp (1966-~n),50 hp p%6 i 1981-01~) 55 hp (1967d mrS * ia this chapter. )
, I

F"

1 Loosen the screw on each choke Swiwl to . "frwthe choke W.

2. Adjust top end of link about 1/16-1/8 i. n beyond the top of the choke wive1 a d tighten the screw to hold the link in that

* ! i' ; .r, . i .*
3-.,

CMwWorAdjustment t4.~ !$j.):wom Steps 1-11 of 35 and 45 hp jlOW-on), 50 hp (1966 rmd 19&1-0n) and 55 @.@MY-1976)i tlib chaptar to adjust the n

,'

position. 3. Close top carburetor choke sW h completely and hold in that position. C l m bottom carburetor choke completely and tighten bottom choke swivel rcrew.
4, Low& Phe 2 solenoid attaching s c n w ~ just enough to pennit the solenoid to be moved.

;a9a.carburetor.

% ,Paform Steps 9-11 of 35 a d 45 hp ( I %6 and 1981-on) and 55 in tllis chapter to adjust the
sarb-.

We~spcd screw locknut on the 40)and adjmt stop screw idles at 750-800 rpm
locknut.
'1:

6. ~ s p r r r ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ l l o i d ~ i - ( ~ ~ t to dose the choke shuttun. See FipPre 42. ,

2, wornt8e*co&.

.Y!, , .'
8,

'$<:
. .

3, Remove all spark plugs from the g m W head See Chapter FOur.
~e~LthEd, All

enM of 0,0015 inch in&$@ setting will chmgs engine timing as in&:.qp
1

'

. I

3.
a9

the shutters into a e mrbtmt~rintake c w o

and scnw it i completely. n 6. &tall the t h b g to01 rod i0:

with its 2 identibtion marks 4*7@ up") to the outSi&.

,.

NOTE the c&rkqP b wtaed ta,far in Stm9.theoutsrtimimmd~kHtill

stq-do not try t posW the rod o

&J.

mrvk by
wetcI&.

?OtatYIIg lj5e cwnkPh&

$ Apply slight 6 ? fiaip~a the hc of : & on *rodtoglfuventitfromshootiP(Igpta~

pistan c

-@'W@
y 35' before

crankshgffclockwisaMarWt*

~ t h e o u t e r ~ a o d
piatan is now poQjtionad e

me.

1Q. Make sure the 36 degrec mark on the &wheel ring gear decal aligns with the timing pointer index line. If it does not, loosen the timing pointer screws, align the pointer index

line with the decal mark and tighten the pointerscrews. 11. Rotatethe0yw~toatiga~~18dpgtee mark with the thing Q&&R indm line. 12. Rotate the dkibuMrpulley to a&n the p u U 9 index mark with the outer diameter of the flywheel. Sec Fi@ure 45. 13. Install distributor belt (removed w h q breaker points were checked) bver pulley. Position the tip of a 0.008 in. feeler gauge against the mid-point of the belt length. Push against the belt until the feeler gauge bends without moving the belt fuaher. This Thisshould provide the d e & d 316-1Y4 h, bdt deflection. Sce MgPre 4 . Tighten the 6 distributor bracket sc;rews. 14. h m e c t the w t t l e link at the tower shaft. Move tower.skB,toaridsapen throttle position with the gtep rcSting against the cylinder crankcask'cawx. 15. Rotate the flywheel d&v&p to align the 36 degree mark with the appmiwhte mark on the timing pomter as follows: a. -4 degne mark (32' BTDCq for all 3+ylhdur and 105 hp. ! e Figure 47. Se

JNKAGE ADJUSTMENTS
b. -2 degree mark (second to left of

rn
t

index mark or 34' B T W for 1W & 130 hp. c. -6 degree mark (left edge of painter or 30' BTDC) for 135 hp. 16. Connect a 12-volt test light befwhen ths distributor primary lead wire post and &e coil ground post. See Figure 48. 17. Loosen distributor control rod l o c h s (Figme 49): a If test light is off, rotate control rod clockwise until light just comes on. b. If test light is on, rotate control rod counterclockwise until light just goes of. 18. Depress distributor belt lightly several times. Test light should come on and go off each time. 19. Check the length of the control rod between the tower shaft swivel and distributor. It should be 3/8-1/2 in. See F 49. If it is not within specifications, one of the following mistakes was made. Cofiect as req*
COIL QROUND POUT

a. The flywheel was turned in the wrong direction to align the 36 degree mark
with the timing pointer. b. The breaker point gap is not comet. c. The No. 1 cylinder was not at top dead center when the distributor drive belt was installed. 20. When control rod length is correct, hold rod in position and tighten locknbt securely.
Neutral Interlock Switch Adjustment

1. Shift engine to NEUTRAL.

2. Advance tower shaft to neutral stop arm as shown in Figure 50.

3. Connect a 12-voli test light to the neutral

Neutral Interlock Switch Cam ( S M Arm) Adjustment

interlock switch as shown in Figwe 51.

4. Lamien the screws holding the switch cam to the distributor housing.

1. Shift engine to NEUTRAL.

2. Advance tower shaft to neutral stop arm asshownin~50.

3. Connect a 12-volt test light to the neutral interlock switch as shown in Fgr 52. iue

5. Move cam upward until test light just comes on and tighten cam screws.

r - b
INE MCHRONIZATION AND L1
4. Loosen the screws holding the switch cam t the shift a m o r.
1. Disconnect throttle link from tower sh&

I
'

5. Move cam upward until test light just comes on and tighten cam screws.

Disconnect throttle link &om tower shaft j Pivot throttle cam away from carburetor [! throttle roller. /1 2. Loosen the throttle tie bar screws. See pieme 53. i i 3. Make sure throttle shutters are fully closed ' and tighten tie bar screws p ne 53). i r g , 4. Connect throttle link to tower shaft. &t w i n e at w d ie throttle and make sure k o t t b shutters are horizontal. If they are ast, djust t e throttle cam-to-tower shaft h link as required.

' 1.

Pivot throttle cam away from arbwetor throttle roller. 2. Remove retaining r n holding throttle tie ig bar to the top carburetor throttle arm. 3. Loosen the throttle tie bar saews. See Figure 54. 4. Make sure throttle shutters are fully c l d and tighten tie bar screws @ l p e 54). 5. Check to see that the throttle tie bar pivot goe in and out of carbumtor arm without binding. 6.Installretainingringtohd8tbitWh rl. '3 bar to the top carburetor thmttls: shs%t,.TI,* 7. Connect throttle link to .'[ .G* \

.Ir~r

&throttle cam at the index line as shown in 55, then tighten locknut. 13. Raxmnect throttle link at the tower shaft. g 4 . Move tower shaft to wide-open throttle

lamen throttle roller shaft loeknut.

@i4W shaft until throttle roller just touches

posttisn. % Loosen throttle link jam nuts and adjust link until throttle shutters are horizontal, then tighten the jam nuts.

Cubmetor Adjnetment (3-cylinder E g n s nie)

1. Perform Steps 1-11 of 35 and 45 hp (1966-on), hp (J966 and 1981-on) and 55 50 hp (1967-1976) this chapter to adjust the in

Carburetor Adj~~stment

(+*m#-)

top carburetbr.

2. Perform Steps 9-11 of 35 and 45 hp (1966-on), hp (1966 and 1981-on) and 55 50 hp (1w7-1976)i this chapter to adjust the n middle carburetor.
3. Shut the engine off and turn the top and middle carburetor idle adjustment needles clockwise until they lightly seat. Note the number of turns required to seat the needle on each carburetor. 4. Take the average of the settings noted in Step 3 and set al cadmetors accordingly. For l example, if the top carburetor required 7/8 turn and the middle carburetor required 5/8 tum, the average of &e 2 is 6/8 or 3/4. Back h all 3 carburetor needles out 3/4 turn from a

1. Perform Steps 1-11 of 35 and 45 (1966-on),50 hp (I966 and 1981-on) and 51 hp (1967-1976)in this chapter to adjust te h top carburetor. 2. Perform Steps 9-11 of 35 and 45 b (1966-on),50 hp (1966 and 1981-on) and 51 hp (1967-1976)i this chapter to adjust tl% n bottom carburetor. 3. Adjust the idle stop screw on the twucl shaft as required until engine idles at 7 0 9 6 0.8 r m in NEUTRAL. p Choke Shutter Syncluonhtion (3-cylinder W e a ) Refer to Figure 56 for this procedure. 1. Loosen the screw on .each choke swivil ti free the choke link. 2. Adjust top end of litlk about 1/16-1/43 in beyond the top of the choke swivel r ~ l r tighten the ~ c m wto hold the link m th& position.

lightly seated position.

5. Adjust the idle stop screw on the tower .&all as required until engine idles at 700-900

1'

rpm in N E W .

AGE ADJUSTMENTS

Mi+

9. Release the solenoid plunger. If the ch& shutters are not horizontal, bend the shutter stop groove pin in the carburetor air h) as required to bring the shutter6 into o horizontal position. 10. I n d l the carbumtor intake cover with new gaskets. 11. Install the engine cover.
Choke Shutter Symhmhtion (ecYWer Engines) The choke shutters are synchronized as described under Chrysler outboards 35 and 45 hp (1966-on), 50 hp (1966 and 1981-on) MIlr 55 hp (1967-1976) in this chapter. CHRYSLER OUTBOARJH 70-140 HP (MOTOROLA ELBXXRONIC DIS'MUBUTOR IGNITION) Engine Timing Prepiundon 1. Diswnnect the negative battery lead. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove all spark plugs from the powar head. See Chapter Four. 4. Check position of timing decal on flyWhd 'ring gear. The TDC and 36' ma&^ the decal must align with the top of the 0' and 3 6 flywheel lines. If they do not, align and ~QSW a new decal. 5. T r a timing tool barrel (part N . T hed O 2937-1) into the top cylinder @-,&+ and screw it in completely.

' 3. Close the top and middle carburetor choke

,&utters completely and hold in that position. Tiiten middle choke swivel s r w ce. '& ; 4 Close bottom . carburetor choke ampletely and tighten bottom choke swivel
*

~-.

;"S. Loosen the 2 solenoid attaching screws

'$$st enough to permit the solenoid ,to be

Enowl. '6 Slip a small piece of writing paper about '. "1/2 in. wide into each carburetor air horn.
The paper will provide d c i e n t clearance to the choke shutters from sticking
,7. Depress the solenoid plunger (not the rod) to clase the choke shutters. Slide the solenoid , & the plunger and tighten the solenoid
>rttachingscmW6.

8. Release the solenoid plunger and push flngor into solenoid. P l the papers from ul & air honk. Wae should be a alight drag as the p a p are nmoved, If drag is excessive, npeat Steps 5-9.

;
!

6. Install the timing tool rod in the barrel with its 2 identification marks ("25-55 hp") toward the outside. 7. While holding the rod tightly against the piston, rotate the crankshaff clockwise to locate top dead center (TDC). This is the point a which the marks on the t m n tool t iig rod are at a maximum distance from the barrel. See A, Figure 29. 8. Thread the timing tool barrel in or out as required to align the inner timing rod mark with the edge of the barrel. See 3, Figww 29.
NOTE i rotated too far in s St@ 9, the ouer timing rod mark will go beyond the edge of the timing tool barrel. If this happens, repeat the step-do not try to position the rod mark by rotating the crankshaft counterclockwse.

If the cranksh&

between the 6 shaft swivel and distributor. If it is not between 3/8-1/2 ia, adjust the nylon swivels as required. Sa F i 49. 16. Perfonn Static Timing or Dynamic Timing as described in this chapter.
Static Tinling

ki

9. Apply slight finger pressure on the end of the rod to prevent it from shooting out during the piston compression stroke. Rotate crankshaft clockwisr: almost one full turn until the outer timing rod mark aligns with the edge of the barrel. See Figure 30. The piston is now positioned exactly 32' before TDC. I 10. Make sure the 32 degree mark on the flywheel ring gear decal aligns with the timing pointer index line. See F i 57. If it does not, loosen the timing pointer screws, align the pointer index line with the decal mark and tighten the pointer screws. 11. Rotate the flywheel to align the 0 degree m k with the timing pointer index line. 12. Carefully pry drive belt off distributor

*.

b3. ~ o t a t e distributor pulley to align the the

14. Mall drive belt over distributor pulley. .the tip of a 0.008 in. feeler gauge the mid-point of the belt length. Push

pulley index mark with the outer diameter of &e wheel. See Figure 45.

1. Dhunnect the white/black stripe wirs from the distributor housing terminal. 2. Move the tower shaft to the widsopea, throttle position. 3. Rotate the &wheel clockwise to align the timing decal 32 degree mark with the timily pointer index mark. 4. Connect a voltmeter between the 1 distributor blue wire and white/black win terminals as shown in Fipre 58. 5. Comect the negative battery lead and turn the ignition switch to the ON or RUN position without starthg the engine. 6. L m s s the distributor control rod locknut (Figure 49). Rotate the control rod u t l the . ni , voltmeter needle moves from 0 volts to 12 volts. Hold control rod in this position and . tighten locknut. 7. Lightly depress distributor drive belt several times while watching the meter scale. i The needle should Meet each time the belt is depmml. Ifit does not, repeat Step 6.

ACE ADJUSTMENTS

a m

1. Reconnect the negative battery lead and reinstall the spark plugs. 2. Connect a timing light as shown in Flgm 59. 3. With the engine in a test tank or on the boat in the water, start the engine and accelerate to wide-open throttle. 4. Point the timing light at the flywheel and t m n pointer and check timing m r iig ak alignment. If the 32 degree mark on the decal does not align with the timing pointer index mark, retard the engine and shut it OK 5. Loosen the control rod locknut (Figwe 49) and adjust the control rod clockwise to retard or counterclockwise to advance the timing. 6. Restart the engine and repeat Step 4. If timing is correct, shut the engine off and tighten the control rod locknut. If timing is still incorrect, repeat the procedure as required until the marks align, then tighten the locknut. Carburetor Adjustment, Throttle and Choke Shutter Synchronipltion Adjust the carburetors and synchronize the throttle and choke shutters as described under 70-135 hp (Distributor Breaker Point Ignition) in this chapter.
CHRYSLER O U T B O ~ 55, 125 ANp 140 HP (PluwroIlTE CD IGNITION)

Ensine Timing
The engine should be in a test tank o Om f the boat in the water for this pro&uW 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Connect a timing light manufacturer's instructions. 3. Move the throttle to t e h position and crank the e@ne the timing light at the & W M slange adapter ti&g n w h
' 6

on the flywheel should align with the adapter timing mark *2'.
W-NO Do not attempf to d u s t the timing link with the engine running. It is close to the jlywhed ring gear and serious personal injury can result.

4. If the timing ma&? do not align as specified i Step 3, loosen the timing link n locknut (F4ute 60) and turn the adjusting screw doc* to retard or counterclockwise to advance the t m n . Tighten the locknut iig and rcpeat Step 3.
NOTE

AN 1978~1981140 hp models were

faccbry-tM at 32' BTDC. Due to w & win &el qnaliiy and octane r # rating, Chrysler Mwanne changed the timing to 30' BTDC on 1982 models and reem& that the timing on all prwkftrr 140 hp mot& be reset from 3 2 to 3V.

Chrysler outboards 55 hp (1977-1980), 60 hp (1974-1976),65 hp (1977-1978)and 105,120 and 135 hp (1975-1977) with Magnapower I1 Ignition in t i chapter. hs

5. When the timing marks align in Step 3, start the engine and run at 4,500-5,500 rpm. Check timing m r alignment with the ak timing light. The 32 degree (55 and 125 hp) or 30 degree (140 hp) mark should align with the timing pointex index mark. , 6. If the timing rmvks do not align as spedied in Step 5, shtn tbc engine OFF. Loosen the timing link hknut (Figure 60) and turn the adjusting screw clockwise to retard or c o u n t e r c l u c ~ advance the to timing. 7. Repeat Step 5 and Step 6 requimi. When the timing is car&, s u the engine ht off and tighten the locknut,

FORCE OUTBOARDS 4, 9.9 AND 15 HP Throffle Pick-up Point Adjustment 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Advance the throttle control until the carburetor throttle plate starts to open. If adjustment is correct, the center of the throttle shaft follower should be aligned with the cam mark. See Figure 61. 3. If the cam mark did not intersect the follower at the point where the throttle started to open, loosen the screw holding the throttle cam to the stator plate. 4. Pivot the cam in or out as required to align the mark with the center of the follower. Tighten the screw securely. 5. Repeat Step 2 to recheck the adjustment. If still not correct, repeat Step 3 and Step 4. Carburetor Adjustment 1. Turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise until it lightly seats in the carburetor. Do not

Carburetor Adjustment, Throffle and Choke Shutter synchronization Adjust the carburetors and synchmk the throttle and choke shutters as described under

NIZATION AND LINBAGE ADJUSTMENTS

engine speed slows again anbtar a too-lean mixture. Note the adjustment screw slot. 8, Turn the idle adjustment screw to' a midpoint between the Settings notcd in Stap 6 and step 7. 9. Adjust the idle stop on the starbaard side of the support plate to bring the idle spead t o 800-1,000 rpm in gear.
EY)RCE OUTBOARDS 35 HP

Throttle Pick-ap h i n t Adjustment 1. Remove the engine wver.

CAUTION

Do not disconnect the thrortIe cam rod at the throttle cam The pressure required to do so can distort the cam.

2 l X s m w c t the throttle cam rod at the

thttleann,SmA,Fjgnre62.

turn the serew tightly into the carburetor or

the tip will be damaged. 2. Back the screw out one Full tum. I 3. Start the motor and warm to nofmal I opmttng temperature. ,a. Move throttle to SkIIFT position and shift
i %@ne

into FORWARD.

5. Set the throttle lever ontrol to the lowest e % h gwhere the engine will run smoothly. 4-6. Turn the idle adj-eat screw ,,mu11tmcI* until the engine decreases and its operation becomes rough beeawe of t ovenich mixture. Nott?the position of the b ln -t e screw slot. ' q.7, $ k d y h n the idle adjustment screw u clockwise. bghe operation will g r a d d y %tll& aQd speed will increase. XQ&IIUE. .wit3.-tbs adjWmmt until the
c

3. Loasen the lochut on the mentriic aagw holding the nylon r o b to the throttle s& h arm. 4. Loosen the locknut on the cam SO itmove freely against the roller. See A, Flpae . . 63. . ! 5. Turn the eccentric screw until the. at the maximum distance &om the spp mark, then turn the screw w u n - w wtil the cam mark intersectsthe an@#@ roller. Sm Mgm 63. 6. Tighten eccentric screw loolola carenottoturnthescrew. 7 Reinstallthethrottleclllnrodd~~i .
2.

,&,

,.

8. Check the throttle ShUttQ

throttle cam rod finin

;.

nut,

- < ~ ,

,.

.,, ,:,?,,:>,B

1gWqmtor AdJWment '"his procedure should be performed with the boat in the water or the engine in a test & t with test wheel T 2954A installed in

"

phw of the propeller. 1. Connect a tachometer according to ,h w s instructions. 5. Turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise until it lightly seats in the carburetor. Do not turn the screw tightly into the carburetor or the tip will be damaged. 3 Back the screw out one full,turn. . 4. Start the engine and run at 2,000 rpm u t l it reaches normal operating ni temperature. Once it is warmed up, allow another 1-2 minutes of i l n for the dig recimlation system to s a t fimctioning. tr 5. T r the idle adjustment screw clockwise un 1 8 turn at a time, pausing at lat 10 seconds 1 es between tvns and adjusting the throttle to keep the engine within a range of 750-850 rpm. Continue this step until the tachometer Jhowsthatenginespeedhaspeakedahdis ihxmhg and the engine stmb to misfire. Rite the screw slot ---this is the lean poeition. 6. Return idle adjustment screw to its btigid position and Repeat Step 5 turning , ' screw wunterclockwkx 1/8 turn at a time k 'W the engine speed becomes rough &om d v e fuel. Note the screw slot --this is the rich position.

FORCE OUTBOARDS 50HP

1. Disconnect the negative battery lead. 2 Remove the engine wver. . 3. Remove all spark plugs from the power head. See Chapter Four. 4 Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. . 5 Check and adjust breaker points as . required. An error of 0.005 inch in the gap setting will change engine timing as much as one degree. 6. Thread the barrel of timing tool part No. T 2937-1 in the top cylinder spark plug hole and screw it in completely. 7 Install the timing tool rod (part No. T . 293712) into the baml with its 2

the idle adjustment screw to a

. Turn the adjustment screw

speed screw (C, F l l 62) ilw idles at 750 rpm in

the throttle. If the engine

SYNCHRONIZATION AND LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS

169

9. Thread the thing tmPk&@r$ca m t as requkd to align the k m w rodma& with the edge of the bard. F w 6&
:

.'

'

NOTE I f the crankshaft is rotated ,fit& 'w#:Mi' : ' step 10, the ouier timing rod d k w& go beyond the edge o the tim'ng toel f barrel. If this happens, mpm! the ' step-do not try to position the md . mark by rotating the crank&@ countercI0ckwise.
:

.,,,.<>,

2. I . , /-:

..

'

10. Apply slight 6nger pressure on the cad of -- - the rod to prevent i t f G shooting out d * the piston compmsion stroke. Rot& cranclockwise almost one full b n u until the outer timing rod mark aligns with the edge of the barrel. See Figwe 66. The piston is now positioned exactly 3 2 befon

TDC.
11. sett the throttle link at thetower shaft. Plaoe tower shaft in wide-open throttle position by rotating it until the nylon stop rests against the cylinder crankcasr:cover. 12. Disconnect the No. 1 cylinder break^ point lead wires at the slide termid. 13. Connect a 12-volt test lamp between the No. 1 c y W breaker point lead win and a good engine ground. 14. Loosen the locknut on the spark contd link (Figure 67). a. If test Light is on, rotate spark mttd link counterclockwise until li&t just goes OK , b. If test light i off, rotate spark s link clockwise until lipht just ODIWX aPb 15. Rotate crankshaft back and f l &! ca i W
8

. identitication marks (25-55 HP) toward the

a & The distance between the 2 marks h. f2qds 32'. rod mark passes the edge of the 8. While holding the rod tightly against the barrel. piston, rotate the crankshaft clockwise to 16. Hold the spark con@bl This is the . locate top dead center 0 and tighten the locknut. point at w i h the marks on t e timing tool hc h rodpnatamnxim~~1dhncefromthe banaL See A, Rpm65.

7 ,

-.

I .

..

plug hole. It will be n6bes9aryrtoremove the rear engine aover bdcst 18. Repeat Ste@ 6-10 to locatethe 32 degree BTDC p s t o for the No. 2 cylinder. oiin 19. Dbm11o.ect the No. 2 cylinder breaker point~~attlreslideterminal.
.
,

\:

NQTE 90a&~& W w k control link to a& H E & a Z liming or~the No. I c y h ' ~ ~ ~ I v Eoul~of time. Make & k .crrljdmd '& 'mmtdiy &ing de No. 2 ,pint SRt open or closed as rewQslrd !(t' . 4 > . "..,'i

20. C & % i i k& % % N&. !z;& ? : -

ts lamp between the et mint lead w r and a ie

adjust (close) the No. 2

Wd from the No. 2

the point lea& dt;W && tqninals and install the flyw8.d ~ ( ~ ~ t J i % g h t ) . 22. connwt a I : ' thsrsr Cpart NO. T 11260) to the No. 1 and No. 2 spark plug leads. Set tester ,gapi8t .8$66:im 23. Connect a thdxg~ligbtiao No. 1 spark &e plug lead according' t man-r's o instructions. 24. Move the tower M;to the wide open throttle position (Wtion Wugy,adwced).
Force 50 hp e10gim may be factory-timed at 30' or 32' BTDC. be Force recommends thal 4 engrngrries timed at 30' BTDC. R p m 69 show the difmnces between the 2 deleeakfw fiery-timed engines.

25. Crank the engine over and point the timing mark at the flywheel decal. Note the firing position. 26. Connect the timing light to the No. 2 spark plug lead. 27. Repeat Step 25 and note firing position for No. 2 cylinder. The 2 Gring positions should be exactly the same. If they are not, readjust the No. 2 breaker point set until they are. 28. If the 2 cylinders are firing exactly 180' apart (same position on timing tab), reconnect timing light to No. 1 cylinder spark plug lead and check to see if it is firing at 30' BTDC. If it is not, readjust the timing l n ik until it does. When the c y l h h are properly W synchronized (firing 1 apart) and the No. 1 cylinder is firing at 30' BTDC, the No. 2 cylinder will also fire at 30' BTDC. 29. Remove the timing light and spark plug tester. ReinstaU the spark plugs and connect the spark plug leads. Throttle Pick-up Point Adjustment 1. Remove the engine cover.
CAUTION Do not disconnect the throttle cam rod ar the throttle cam. The pressure required to do so can distort the cam.

IJDTE;

8. Check the throttle shutter position. If the shutter is not horizontal, disconnect the throttle cam rod from the tower shaft. Loosen the jam nut and rotate the rod to lengthen or shorten it as required. Rec01111ect rod and recheck throttle shutter position. Repeat this step until the shutter is horizontal with the rod installed, then tqhten the jam nut.

2. Disconnect the throttle cam rod at the I tower shaft. 3. Loosen the locknut on the eccentric screw holding the nylon roller to the throttle shaft a . Figure 69. m See 4. Loosen the locknut on the cam so it can move freely against the roller. See Figure 69. 5. Turn the eccentric screw until the roller is at the maximum distance from the cam madr, then turn the screw counterclockwise until the cam mark intersect8 the center of the roller. See Figure 70. 6. T@ten eccentric screw locknut, taking cannottoturnthescrew. 7. ReinstaU the throttle cam rod and position the tower shaft with nylon throttle stop against cylinder.

Carburetor Adjustment This procedure should be performed with the boat in the water or the engine in a test tank with test wheel T 2954A installed in place of the propeller. 1. Connect a tachometer according to manufacturer's instructions. 2 Turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise . until it lightly seats in the carburetor. Do not turn the screw tightly into the carburetor or the tip will be damaged. 3. Back the screw out one f l turn. ul 4. Start the engine and run at 2,000 rpm until it reaches normal operating temperature. Once it is warmed up, allow another 1-2 minutes of idling for the recirculation system to start functioning. 5. Turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise 1(8 turn at a time, pausing at least 10 seconds between turns and adjusting the throttle to keep the engine within a range of 750-850 rpm. Continue this step until the tachometer shows that engine speed has peaked dnd is decreasing and the engine starts to misfire. Note the screw slot setting-this is the lean position. 6. Return idle adjustmeat mew to its original position and Regeat SOsp 5, turning the screw c o u n t e r c l o c 148 tmn at a time ~ until the engine spedi bscotnes rough from excessive fuet. Note the screw slot setting-this is the rich position. 7. Turn the idle rtdjustment screw to a midpoint beflveen the se%tings noted in Step 5 andStep6.sSS-64.

8. Quickly open the throttle. If the engine dies, it is too lean. Turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise. If the engine stumbles, it is too rich. Turn the screw clockwise. 9. Adjust the idle speed screw on the tower shaft until the engine idles at 750 rpm in FORWARD gear.

FORCE OUTBOARDS
85 AND 125

HP

Engine Timing
When the engine has a good spark on all cylinders but will not run correctly, the flywheel key may be sheared. This procedure should be used to realign the timing pointer as required. 1. Disconnect the negative batteq lead. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove all spark plugs from the power head. See Chapter Four. 4. Thread the barrel of timing tool part No. TA 2937- 1 approximately 3/4 of the way in the top cylinder spark plug hole. 5. Install the timing tool rod (part No. T 2937-2) into the barrel with the 2 grooves toward the outside. See Mgure 71. 6. Apply light finger pressure to the end of the rod and rotate the crankshaft 2 turns clockwise, stopping when the rodrreaches its maximum outward movement. See A, Figure 71. 7. Thread the timing tool barrel in or out as required to align the inner timing rod mark with the edge of the barrel. See B, Figure 71.

the rod to prevent it from shooting oul the piston compression stroke. crankshaft clockwise almost one fc until the outer timing rod mark alig the edge of the barrel. 9. Check alignment of the flywhee mark with the pointer mark. If marks in alignment, adjust position of m pointer until alignment is achieved.
Static Timing

If the crankrlsafl b rotated too f i r

NOTE

in Step 8, the outer timing rod mark will go beyond the edge o the timing tool f barrel. If this happens, repeat the step-do not try to position the rod mark by rotating the crankshafl counterclockwise.

8. Apply slight finger pressure on the end of the rod to prevent it from shooting out during

I. Remove the spark plugs. See ( Four. 2. Connect a spark tester @art No. T to the engine and the spark plug lei tester gap at 3/8 in. 3. Remove the propeller as a precaution, since the engine will be ( in gear. 4. Install a jumper wire across the safety switch leads. 5. Connect a timing light to the No. plug lead according to manufa instructions. 6. Move the t o m shaft to the w k throttle position (ignition fully advan1

I 4. Point the timing light at the flywheel timing pointer and check timing mark: alignment with the engine running at 5,300 rpm (85 hp) or 5,000 rpm (125 hp). If the 3' 0 mark on the flywheel does not align with thtl timing pointer index mark, bring the engh back to idle and shut it off. See Figure 73. 5. Loosen the timing rod locknut and turn' the adjusting screw as required. Snug the locknut down and repeat Step 4. Repeat this combination as required until timing i s correctly set, then shut the engine off and tighten the locknut securely. 6. Disconnect the test equipment, remove the test wheel and reinstall the propeller.

3
\

7. Crank the engine and point the timing light at the flywheel timing marks. To obtain e 3W BTDC timing setting with the engine rumin& it must be static timed to 28' BTDC abmnking speed. 8. If the 28' BTDC mark on the flywheel does not align with the timing pointer index mark,loosen the timing rod locknut and turn the adjusting s r w as required. Snug the ce locknut down and repeat Step 7. Repegt this combination as required until timing is correctly set, then tighten the locknut securely. Dynnmic Timing

Throttle Shotter Synchronization 1. Remove the carburetor intake cover(s)and gasket(s). 2. On 125 hp models, disconnect drain hose from intake ftig itn. 3. Disconnect the tower shaft throttle link at the throttle cam. Move cam away from carburetor throttle roller. 4. Loosen the throttle tie bar screws. Make sure the throttle shutters are closed, then tighten the tie bar screws. 5. Slowly operate the throttle roller manuelfjt to make sure that all throttle shuttm start moving simultaneously. If they do not, readjust them.

This procedure should be performed with the boat in the water or the engine in a test tnnk with test wheel TA 8999 installed in
place of the propeller.

Throttle Pick-up Adjustment . 1. Disconnect the throttle l n ball-j-: ik connector at the tower shaft. 'r, 2. Loosen the locknut on the emmtdc bC%raR holding the nylon roller to the

1. Connect a timing light as shown in Figure 72.

--

2. Connect a tachometer accodiw to m m u f ~ instructions. s 3. Start the Gngine and let it warm to normal mtaag-pera-.

4. T r the e c n r c smw.antll un ceti at the maximuntil the camlagl3r

roller. If cam has a double set of markss the roller should r s between the marks. et 5. Tighten eccentric screw locknut, taking care not to turn the screw. 6. Reconnect the throttle link connector to the tower shaft.
,

7. Relea@ the solenoid plunger and push'

Choke Shutter Synchronization

1. Loosen the screw on each choke swivel to the choke link. 2% Adjust top end of link about 1/16-118 in. beyond the top of the choke swivel and tighten the screw to hold the link in that

plunger into solenoid. Pull the papers ftom the air horns. There should be a slight drag as the papers are removed. If drag is excessive, repeat Step 5 and Step 6. 8. Release the solenoid plunger. If the choke shutters are not horizontal, bend the shutter stop groove pin in the carburetor air horn($ as required to bring the shutters into a hori2:ontal position. 9. Install the carburetor intake cover@)with new gasketts). 10. Install the engine cover.
Carburetor Adjustment This procedure should be performed with the boat in the water or the engine in a test tank with test wheel T 8999 installed in place of the propeller. 1. Connect a tachometer according to manufacturer's instructions. 2. Turn the idle adjustment screws clockwise until they lightly seat in the carburetor. Do not turn the screws tightly into the carburetor or the tips will be damaged. 3. Back the screws aut 1 1/4 turn. 4. Start the engine and run at 2,000 rpm until it reaches normal operating temperature. Once it is warmed up, &ow another 1-2 minutes of idling for the recirculation system to start functioning.

3. Close top carburetor chode shutter oompletely and hold in that position. Close bottom carburetor choke completely and tighten bottom choke swivel screw. 4. Loosen the 2 solenoid attaclling screws just enough to permit the solenoid to be moved. 5b Blip a small piece of writing paper about . 182 i. wide into each carburetor air horn. n The paper will provide sufficient clearance to the choke &utters from
the solenoid plunger (not the rod) choke shutters. Slide the solenoid lthQ phmp and tighten the solenoid

the s a w counterclockwise 118 turn at a&#@ until the engine speed become6 mrrgh && ex&ve fuel. Note the screw sl-at
screw clockwise 1/8 turn at a
betwm the and Step 7. See F i i 64.
notQd Step in

and the engine starts to misfire.

10. Adjwt the idle speed screw on the towex shaft until the engine idles at 750 rpm in FORWARD gear.
L

Table 1 MANUAL ENOINE SERIAL NUMBERS U.S.A. Y0d.l No.

a52HA

SerlaI No.
3001 3001 3001 3001

Ca~da Modal No.

352BA 353BA 452BA 453BA

Seri.l No.
3027 3022 3008 3008

WA H

452HA
463HA

Chapter Six

Fuel System

This chaptar contains removal, overhaul, ballation and adjustment procedures for b pumps, c a r w r s , real valves, fucI l tanks and canticctiag &ma ussd wltb @ * o a t b o a r d s c o v d i n ~ b o o ~ , ~ * " iaid' Table 2 are at the en8 of the chapter.

the No. 1 cylinder cause the pump diaphragm to flex back and forth, transmitting the pressure to an inlet and outlet reed mounted on a plate inside the pump. Upward piston motion creates a low pressure on the pump diaphragm. This low pressure opens the inlet check valve in the pump, drawing fuel from the line into the FUEL PUMP pump. At the same time, the low pressure ' A, o u t b o d s equipped with , inintegral draws the air-fuel mixture from the carburetor into the crankcase. W tank use a gravity flow fuel system and Downward piston motion creates a high require no fuel pump. The diaphmgm-type pressure on the pump diaphragm. This Yissl pump used on models with a remote M pressure closes the inlet check valve and aalr is m t e d by rrankcase prcarmre. Since ~t~pcoffuelpump~otcR?fitesufgcient opens the outlet check valve, forcing the he1 into the carburetor and drawing the air-fuel to draw fuel from the tank during mixture from the crankcase into the cylinder fuelistmsfdtothecarb~r for combustion. F i p e 1 shows the fa &gtbg by operating the primer bulb operational sequence of a typical single stage imt&d in the fuel lige. fuel pump. digghragm displacement A 2-stage diaphragm displacement pump 4.4-20 hp models. h u r e (designated Type A or Type B according to by movement of the design) is used on all other engines. Pump operation is essentially the same. Vacuum the amkase and and pressure pulsations from one cylinder c.ambme pressure of

Al

e, fPa rdxabat wnabh with-

) .

hit

9. Installation is the revem of m o d . Sandwich the diaphragm between mw" gaskets. Make sure diaphragm is not wxinklcd &d extends beyond the gasket on all sib.

1. Disconnect the fuel line at the s u m plate quick-disconnect fitthg.

2. Unscrew sediment bowl screw. R e m ! ~ ,@iment bowl and 6lter screen. See $
/ '

3. Compress the fuel line fitting hose clamp pliers and slide the clamp fitting. Repeat this step to disc&m remaining fuel line from the putqp
4. Remove the fuel pump l c c m e r s . See Figure 6

the pump body. 6. Remove the r e plate and pump diaphragm from the power head. 7. Remove the 6lter from the pump cover. 8. Clean all gasket residue from the engine mounting pad Work carefully to avoid gouging or damaging the mounting surface.

1 /

5. Remove the fu fitting from the fuel

, ;j, . , L

ti Q : !

> :>: .; ,,

,:'

6. Remo Fiie 7
gasket.
.

.,. , ...

180

c n A P l E R SIX

7 Repeat Steps 2-6 to remove the second .

pump on 140 hp engines. 8. Clean all gasket residue from the engine mounting pad. Work carefully to avoid gouging or damaging the mounting surface. 9. Installation is the reverse of removal. Use new gaskets. Apply EC-750 sealant to impulse hose and fuel line fittings and tighten securely. Install 6lter screen in sediment bowl with turned edge facing engine (Figare 8). Install new pump body gasket with slot over pump body key (Figure9). Position sediment bowl with hose fitting as shown in Figare 10.

Refer to Figure 11 for this procedure. 1. Compress the fuel inlet line fitting clamp with hose clamp pliers and slide the clamp off the fitling. Repeat this step to disconnect the impulse hose from the pump wver. 2. Remove the 3 screws holding the fuel pump bracket to the power head. 3. Remove the 2 fittings from the pump cover. 4. Remove the s r w holding the pump ces cover to the pump body. Remove the cover, gasket and diaphragm. 5. Remove the screws holding ,the pump body to the bracket. Remove the body. 6. Loosen the knurled nut on the pump wire bail, swing bail from under sediment bowl and remove bowl gasket and filter screen. 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use . new gaskets. Apply EC-750 sealant to impulse hose and fuel line fittings and tighten securely.

The fUel pump is completely disassembled during removal. Proceed to Cleaning and inspection (Single-stage Pump) in this chapter.

Figure 12 shows the Type A pump; the Type B pump body is the same design. 1 . Remove the 2 screws holding the middle valve to the pump body. See Figure 13. Remove the valve and gasket from the body. NOTE
To make a hooked tool for use in Step 2, use a length of 16 gauge wire and a pair of needlenose pliers.

2. Remove the pressed-in second-stage valve with a suitable hooked tool. 3. Remove the pressed-in first-stage valve by inserting a pin punch in the body hole behind

1. Slo(t.d Mndlng HD rcmw 0-32x114 2 FUI HO m e w with locknrahar 1/4X5/4 a. Elbow 4. nning 5. Fuel pump wvar with plug 6. Fuel pump dlephmgm 7. F U pump gasket ~ 8. Fuel pump Valve 9. (knket, fuel pump valve 10. Fuel pump body wfth v* 11. Fuel d m m t bawl r c m n 12. FWI d m a m bowl gasket a la. Fuel d m a n t bowl 14. Screw, fuel pump bowl 15. Hex u p 8 C N W llC20X 616

SCREWS

, ,*,

:
I .

.@Be@ fiat- seQ mmd4am d v e s in ~baaymtiltbEybo#omaut.hdolrssum ~are~onk$hsshawninFbpsn13.

VALVE

l . c a s o n a U ~ ~ ( a n d g k s s ~ baarloaTgpe B ~ m m p s ) i n d v l a n tD y
lkmIa&*-air.b&

rmPmGandobsokforpin~hesbror

Replaa any valve t$ut in h s s ~ ~

caditi011.Malre~dee aftwamteamsforthe

(Pigme 16) M ~ ~ c

tightened. A carburetor t b t is bmq1will cause a

o ~ Q : n .

Before mov&

and?

:r
8
"

:I

i,
. . , ;

)..I

CARBURETOR REMOVAL/INSTALLA'rIION

1. Diswnnect the firel line From the shut-off valve. Plug the line to prevent fuel from

draining out of the tank 2. If a g M with (1 Tffl&sm carburetor3 remove the idle screw adjus&q hub. 3. Remove the 2 scams holding the control panel to the: carburetor1if se equipgQd. 4. Remove the 2 hex nvta - . te h carburetor to the reed plate. 17. 5. Laom the swivel s r w on the tbW& ce bellcranlc and remove tbe brasIthmtt& link 6. Remove the carburetor andpke& 7. htallation is the reuerse of rmgowSt Cw T a new gasket. Adjust the ca r [Chpta Five).

;*:

CARBURETORS d Force outboards use a variety and Walbro earburetom. All y the h e , but housing slightly according to otson carbuntom do
and

installing

1. Remove the fmnt mgha cover screws (1 970)or rwrr w~er m v (197 1-on). p 2. Remove the fd tank h e r wver, chain i and anohor as an assembly. Remove the fuel tank iiller nack w.ommet. 3. Lift the engine wvsr part way off and tilt forward Tie ankawt in the gtarter rewind rope iddethe aver eydet and rewind starter. % Epas 18.

CHAPTER SIX
4. Pry the starter rope sitWW firom the starter handle. U n t h W rope h m retainer and handle. ~. 5. Remove the mgkbewer. 6. Remove thc W ES described in this chapter. 7. Remove 21w..'ch03a FOB retaiaing dip. Di5mw rod~~ureorarm

(nsrcm r d c control handle to full retard 8. More t h

position. Remove 2 hex nuts holding c r u e o to adapter plate. Remove the abrtr carburetor and gasket. 9. Slide fucl line clamp fnrm fwd fitting with hose clamp pliers and pull carburetor fke of fuel line. 10. InstaUation is the reverse of removal. Use a new gasket. Adjust the carburetor (Chapter Five).

ChryslerlForce 3.5 and 4 hp

(1979-on) 1. Drain and m o v e the fuel tank as described in this cliaptct. 2. S l i & M l i n e d a m p h m f a e l ~ w i t B hose c h p pliem and puIl fucl line from

carburetor. 3. Pull h o b from fuel shut-off valve.

Remove Wve from c a r b d with an Sptn-abd wrench. 4. Remove t h ~ o h rod Fetainiag clip and & washer. Loasen choke link-to-knob screw and dkco~~nect from choke shaR liuk 5. Remove the 2 her nuts holding the carburetor to the adapter plate. Remove the carburetor and gadcet. 6. InstaUation is the reveree of removal. U e s a new gasket. AdjW the carhetor (Chapter Five).

1. Remove the flywheel. See ChgataP Eight. 2. Remove choke rod making clip. Disconnect rod from carbuntor a m .

3. Loosen the hex screw holding the throttle r cam follower a m to follower. See F i e 20. Slide follower out and disconnect the arm from the carburetor. 4. Remove 2 hex nuts holding carburetor to adapter plate. Remove the carburetor and gasket. 5. Slide fuel line clamp from fuel fitting with hose clamp pliers and pull carburetor free of he1 line. 6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Use a new gasket. Route MD series carburetor fuel line under the shift linkage before connecting line to carburetor. Install brass

2. Remove the idle adjustment arm h m the carburetor idle adjustmat 3. Disconnect the choke rod at the oh& shaft. 4. Remove 2 hex nuts hold@ ca&ur&w adapter. Remove the carb-r adn. 5. Installation is the reverse of rsmolval. Uoe a new gasket. Adjust the carbufftol (Qlppter Five).

throttle link in inner hole (CO series carburetor) or outer hole (MD series arbwetor) of follower a m with link ends r msrCing carburetor. Adjust the carburetor (Chapter Five).

q. Remove the choke rod retaining clip and washer. 2. Slide fuel line clamp from fuel pump fitting with hose clamp pliers and h m e c t h e at pump. 3. Remove the 2 hex nuts holding the carburetor to the intake manifold. 4. Slide carburetor forward on manifold aduds and disconnect throttle shaft link. 5. Remove the carburetor and gasket. 6. hstallation is the reverse of removal. Use a new gasket. Adjust the carburetor (Chapter be).

Chrysler 9 9 1 hp .-5 (1972-011) 1. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 2. 9.9-15 hp electric start with CD ignition: a. Disconnect the negative battery lead. b. Remove the coils (A, Figure 3). c. Remove the starter mounting screws (l3, Figure 3). Place starter on support plate. d. Remove starter support from power head support bracket. e. Remove the starter or neutral interlock switch as required. 3. Remove the choke rod retaining clip. Disconnect choke rod from carburetor a m r. 4. Loosen the hex screw holding the throttle cam follower arm to follower. See Figure 20. Slide follower out and disconnect the a m r from the carburetor. 5. Remove 2 hex nuts holding carburetor to adapter plate. Remove the carburetor and gasket. 6. Slide fuel line clamp from fuel fitting with hose clamp pliers and pull carbuntor Ene of fuel line. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Use a new gasket. Adjust the carburetor (Chaw Five). Chrysler 20 hp (1966-1979) 1. IXticomect the c h o k md a 8 shaft.

r ~ ~ / F 92 hp ~ e .~ r

1. W e fuel line clamp from fuel ftig with itn ?hose clamp pliers and pull fuel line from
swbumm.

2. Remove the screw holding the throttle cam follower retainer to the cylinder block.

See Figure 21.

3. Ilkconnect the throttle link at the throttle shaft. 4. Remove the starter spool. See Chapter Ten. 5. Slide fuel line clamp from fuel fitting with hose clamp pliers and pull fuel line from carbumor. 6. Remove 2 hex nuts holding carburetor to adapter plate. Remove dhc ea&mWor and gasket. 7. ltmauati011is the reverse of remod, u e s a new gasket. Adjust the carburetor (Chapter Five). C&yder/Force 20-55 hp (Single Carburetor) 1. On manual start models, remove the choke rod retaining r n and washer. ig Disconnect choke rod from choke lever. See Figure 22. If equipped with a choke cable instead of a rod, loosen the cable swivel screw and disconnect cable from swivel. See Figure
23. 2. On electric start models, loosen the choke

solenoid rod screw and dismnhect the rod from the choke lever. See Figure 24. 3. Slide fuel line clamp from fuel fitting with hose clamp pliers and pull fuel line ram carburetor. 4. Remove 2 hex nuts holding carburetor to adapter plate. Remove the carburetor and gasket. 5. InstaUation is the reverse of removal. Use a new gasket. Adjust the carburetor (Chapter

Fv) ie.

L)t..lasmm the ait silencer and gaskets.

2. Slide fuel line , bottom carburetor fwd ftting with bcm damp pliers and pull fuel line f o a&@r m &&. 3. Disconnect throttle link at tower &&. 4. Remove throttle tie brtr mtaW@ blip
(Figure 25).
s
I

5. Remove and discard the && lf~B W r W pins. Disconnect choke rod add cholie linlC 6. Remove the 2 hex nuts 41 & &

carburetor to adapter plate. Remdve the carburetors and gaskets. 7. Installation is the reverse of remod. U 8 S new gaskets. Adjust the carburetors (Chapter Five).

ChryslerFmrce 70-85 bp Top carburetor

I@

I. Remove carburetor intake cover and gaskets. 2. Remove retaining rings holding throttle tie bar to top and middle carburetor arms. h m e c t tie bar. See Figure 26. 3. Loosen all 3 choke a m swivel scnwa M choke ln slide down. ik 4. Remove and discard cotter pin holdipo choke rod and swivel to top lever. See Flpp
5. Remove washer, choke rod and 2 @#p &om swivel, then re 6. Slide fuel line clamp fitting with hose clamp line &om carburetor. 7. Remove the 2 hex nu& carburetor to the adapter ilqp.
27.

8. Installation is

(Chapter Five).

- .,

w o v e carburetor intake cover and

.
I

rh@ holding throttle tie .k top and middle carburetor arms. to taipMnvlecttie bar. See Figure 26. 3 ohok a m swivel screws. r

we

'linlc and discard cotter pin holding and swivel to middle lever. See

*p3pe 28. 5 &noye washer, 2 0-rings and swivel h m middle lever. 6. Slide fuel line clamp from each bar6 i n
b l inlet fittkg (FigPre 29) and disconnect t hoses. Remove the barb. h 7. Remove the 2 hex nuts holding the .Earburetor to the adapter !lange. m o v e the
'wpbmtor andgasket. '8. htallation is the reverse of removal. U e s r! t#m gadcets and cotter pin. Adjust the mwbwtor (Chapter Five).

.
I

, :

;.

'az)Remove

carburetor intake cover and

throttle link at Qwer W'

~.SeeFigmre29. ch& arm swivel screws Pull

to b t o lever. otm 2 0-nhgs and swivel

&m
Y

Olatioh is the reverse of removal. Use gaplets and wtter pin. Adjust the r (Chapter Five).

@ fuel line clamp from bottom

i&br fuel inlet fitting and diswnnect the

We carburetor cover(s) and gaskets.

IT.-

3. JXwmnect throtde link at tower shaft. 4. Remove retaining & r holding each throttle arm to the throttle tie bsr. See F i 30. 5. Loosen each choke Swirel saew and remove the choke link. 6. Remsve and discard the GQW from pin each choke swivel. Disconnect the ehoke rod and remom the mi* wri&wgOd O-rlnjJS. 7. Remove the 2 hex nuts holding each carburetor to the adapter hqyz. Remove the carburetors and gaskets. 8. htalkttion is the reveme of r e m o d Use new gaskets and wtter pins. Adjust fie carburetors (Chapter Five).
CARBLJRETOR DISASSEMBLY/ASSEMBLY Work slowly and carefully, follow the disaPsembly procedures and refer to the exploded dmwiag of your cadmetor when necesserp. Wen wn hf e to the exploded

190

CHAPTER SIX

drawing, note that not all carburetors will use all of the components shown. Do not apply excessive force at any time. It is not necessary to disassemble the carburetor linkage or remove the throttle cam or other external components. Remove the throttle or choke plate only ifit is damaged or binds. Refer to Figure 31,Figure 32 or F i e 33 for this procedure.
1. T r idle speed adjustment needle un clockwise, counting the number of turns required to lightly seat it. Back needle out and remove needle and spring from the carburetor. See Figure 34. 2A. MD series carburetor-Remove the 4 screws holding the fuel bowl to the carburetor body. Remove the fuel bowl and gasket. Discard the gasket. 2B. AU others-Remove the hex head screw at the bottom center of the fuel bowl ( F i i 35). Remove the fuel bowl, 2 bowl screw gaskets and fuel bowl gasket. Discard the
gaskets.

3A. Tillo$on carburetors-Remove the main fuel jet (Flgme 36). 3B. Walbro c&m@m-Remove the main fuel nozzle and compression spring, if so equipped. See FIgm 37 or Figure 38. 4A. MD series carbureto~~-Unscnwfloat lever pin from fuel b w . ol 4B. Al others-One end of float hinge pin is l knurled. Push the smooth end of the pin through the float hinge bores with a s a l ml punch and remove with needlenose pliers. SA. MD series carburetors-Remove fuel bowl plug screw and slide inlet needle from seat. Remove seat and gasket from fuel bowl with a wide-blade screwdriver. 5B. Lf float straight up and remove from it the carburetor. The inlet needle will come out with the float on Walbro carburetors (Figure 3 ) With Tillotson carburetors, it will remain 9. in the valve seat (Figure 36).

6A. Tillotmn catwetors-Remove the inlet needle valwe.mt and w e t . See F i e 36.
NOTE A snitable'kooked tool for use in Step 63 inn be &from a length of wire with a pair of needlenose pliers.
k retaining ring with a small t

6B. W a l b carburetors-Remove the inlet O-ring

m o v e r . Remove the seat with the same tool.

b-40.

7. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, I plus the following: : a Remove any loose gasket fibers or stamping crumbs adhering to the new

IIQ

gaskets. b. On Walbro carburetors, position float spring as shown in Figure 41 before instaUing float. I s a l float and push ntl smooth end of hinge pin partially through float and one hinge, then move end of spring behind float tab and push the pin through the remaining hinge. ntl c. On MD series carburetom, isal float in bowl and align slot in float tab with inlet needle notch. Coat float lever pin threads with Gasoila and tighten pin securely. d. Adjust the float as described in this chapter. I e. Tighten fuel bowl screw(8) to 20-25 in.-lb. f. Lightly seat needle valve. Back lowspeed needle out one ! turn. U g. Reinstall on engine and adjust carbm r (Chapter Five).

submerge them in a hot tank or carburetor cleaner. A sealing compound is used around the metering tubes and on the casting to eliminate porosity problems. A hot tank or submersion in carburetor cleaner will remove this sealing compound.
WARMNG

CARBURETOR CLEANING AND INSPECIlON Wipe the carburetor casting and linkage in solvent to remove operating film. Clean with fresh gasoline or and a brush. Do not

Gasoline is recommended as a suitable cleaning agent, as carburetor cleaner may remove the sealing compound applied to the casting to prevent porosity. Be extremely careful when using gasoline as it is a very real fire hazard.

needle valve contact mmT Repbe as required. Check the idle needle tip nicks or scratches. Figwe 42 lhows a gaod valve tip (I), a valve tip d a m a @ & ~ excessive pressure when seating (2).apd y e with wear on one side auaed by Vjbrafion resulting from the use of a damaged m e r (3). Check the inlet needle tip (seat m5m) foy. grooving, nicks or scratches. See Wigwe 4. Replace idle needle if tip is damaged. Check the throttle and choke shafts for excessive wear or play. The throttle and choke valves must move freely without binding. Replace carburetor if any of these defects are noted. Clean all gasket residue from mating surfaces and remove any nicks, scratches or slight distortion wt a surface plate and ih emery cloth.

ibr

FLQAT ADJUSTMENT Bend the float adjustment a m or tang r carefully when adjustment is required-do not press down on the float. Downward pressure on the float will press the inlet needle tip into its seat and can damage the tip surface.
I

MD Series Carburetors

Invert fuel bowl. If top of float is n d parallel with top of &el bowl, bend thc mc$J tab which attaches to the inlet nsedtG as required. -, enlarge the passage and change the carburetor calibration. dry with low-pressure (25 psi The use of higher sealing compound absorption. Check the hinge pin and

OM Series Carburetors 4,. > Invert the carburetor b . .*b t & ha should be perfectly I@. , th~ clearance between the edgei& the bods. casting and the f o t If H b not i3/32 in, la + 1/64 i. b d thc$bpt n, M I See A, FlgPre 44. -

uglv rt c

., "

a , V

CHAPTER SIX

Once the float level is correct, hold the carburetor upright and check the float drop. If it is not 13/32 in. 1/32 in., bend the short curved ann on the float as required. See B, Fignre 44.

CO, WB and TC Series Carburetors

Invert the carburetor body. The float should be perfectly level. Measure the distance between the edge of the body casting and the float. See F i e 45. If it is not 13/32 in. 1/64 in., bend the float tang as required. See A, Figure 44.

Chryaler 3.5-7.5 hp (1979-1984), Chryaler 9-9-15 hp (1981-1984), Force $9.9 .ad 15 hp ( 1 9 h n ) Carbnretoc(1 Invert the carburetor body. Weight of float will close the needle valve. Measure the distance between the float and casting (Figure 46). Ifit is not 1/8 in., bend tab A as required. Hold the carburetor upright and measure the distance between the float and casting

(Fignre 47). Ifit is not 5416 in., bend tab B as required. Chrysler 99-15 hp (1979-1!N$X), Force 35 hp (1984-0~) CP1.bareWm Invert the carburetor body. Weight. df @oat will close the needle valve. Mawre the distance between the float and c a s h (Figsra 48). Ifit is not 13/32 in., bend tab as requked Hold the carburetor upright and meame the distance between the b t o of the float otm and the top of the fured fueljet (lilgme49, If it is not 1/16-1/32 in., bend tab as required, Chrysler 20-30hp (1982), 45-50 hp (1982-1984), Force 50 hp (1984011) Carburetors Invert the carburetor body. Weight of float win close the needle valve. Measure the distance between the float and casting (Figure 50). Ifit is not 13/32 in., bendtab as required. Hold the carburetor upright and m a u e esr the distance betwean the bottom o the h t f jet (Figme 51$.If and the top of the fixed it is not 1/16-1/32 in., bend tab as required. Chrysler 25,35 and 55 hp (1983-1984), Olryster 90-140 hp (1983-1984 Walbro), Force 85 and 125 hp (19840~) Carburetors Invert the carburetor body. Weight of float will close the needle valve. Measure the

manifold. Reed valves control air-fuel mixture into the opening and closing as crankcase p d changes. When crankcase pressure is high, t h reeds maintain contact with the reed plate t o which they are attached. As cninkcaso mr drops on the compression stroke, the u e reeds move away from the plate and allow ed air-fuel mixture to pass. R e have1 is limited by the reed stop. As crankcase pressure increases, the reeds return to the reed plate. Figme 56 (l-cylinder), Figure 57 (2-cylinderJand Figure 58 (3-cylinder) show typical reed platelintake manifold configmti0119. N t that larger e e s have oe a deflector plate or ned plate adapter between the intake mmifold/carburetor adapter and the reed valve assemblies.

1. Remove the carburetor as described in this chapter. 2. Disconnect any hoses connected to the intake manifold or carburetor adapter. 3. On 3- and 4-cylinder models, it may be necessary to remove the throttle cam from the intake manifold. 4. Remove the screws holding the intake manifold or carburetor adapter to the cmkcase cover. 5. Remove the intake manifold or carburetor adapter and gasket. Diswd the gasket.

plate hole with a blunt instmmnt. F i i 59. Seal should axtend nQ than 0.06 in. above face of & .L installation. I (,. ,. c. Ue new gaskets. s d. Tighten intake adapter s r w to ces Table 1.
3s

&:

,
. . ,

I . ~

..

1.

,... .
3 .

~. ~..

for this proahm.

,,.,

..

202

CHAPTER SIX

1. Check reeds for cracking or other damage. Replace if any defects are noted. 2. Reeds should lie flat on the reed plate w t ih no preload. To check flatness, gently push each reed petal out. Constant resistance should be felt with no noise. 3. If reeds do not lie perfectly flat on the reed plate, measure the amount they are open and compare to maximum allowable reed opening specifications (Table 2). 4. M a u e the distance between the reed esr stop and r e plate. Compare to ed specb7cations (Table 2). 5. Replace any reeds that do not meet the specifications in Step 3 or Step 4.
Reed Replacement NOTE
Some late-model reed valve assemblies use spacers between the reed stop and reed.

1. Remove the screws, spacen (f used) and i lockwashers holding the reed stop and reeds to the reed plate. 2. Remove the reed stop and reeds. 3. Place a new reed on the reed plate and check for flatness. 4. Locate reed over reed plate, openings. There should be a minimum overlap of 0.030 in. (3.5-15 hp) or 0.040 in. (20-140 hp) over the reed plate opening. See Figure 63 (3.5-15 hp) or Figure 64 (20-140 hp). ntl ih 5. I s a l reed stop w t screws, spacers (if used) and lockwa!ihers. 6. Check r e stop tension and opening. See ed Disassembly, Cleaning and Assembly in this chapter.
CHOKE SOLENOID
A choke solenoid is used on 20-140 hp engines. Test procedures are given in Chapter Three.

1. Disc~nnectthe solenoid terminal post wire.. Note the position of the tephal post

for reinstabtion reference. 2. Loosen the fastener(s) holding fhe solemid clamp. 3. Remove solenoid from claa3p a d disconnect it h m the plunger. 4. Remove the strap holding the wirs to thc solenoid body. 5. Installation is the revexse of Align solenoid w t terminal post in the Same ih relative position noted in Step 1.

&.

INTEGRAL FUEL TANK

All 3.5, 3.6, 4, 4.9 and 5 hp models are fitted with an integral fbel tank.

Removal/IartnUation (1966-1969 3.5 hp)

1. Loosen the magneto control leverjam n@ .' See Figure 65. 2. U s r w the control lever and remove 'g nce
from the engine. valve (port side of carburetor), to the support plate

Removal/Installation (3.6 hp, 1976-1978 4 hp, 4.9 and 5 hp)

RemovalAnstallation (1980-011 hp and 1979-011 hp) 3.5 4 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Slide fuel line clamp from carburetor fuel fitting with hose clamp pliers and pull fuel line free of carburetor. Plug the line to prevent leakage. 3. Remove the 2 front and 2 rear bracket bolts and star washers. 4. Remove the bracket s r w on each side of ce the tank. 5. Remove the he1 tank with starter attached. 6. Remove the 4 nuts and lockwashers holding the starter to the fuel tank. Separate the tank and starter. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Loosely isal starter to fuel tank,pull starter ntl handle to engage the friction shoe plates against the starter cup, then tighten the starter mounting nuts.

1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the 4 nuts and lockwashers holding the starter to the f e tank. ul 3. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel valve center fitting. Plug the end of the line to prevent leakage. 4. Remove the spark plug. See Chapter Four. 5. Remove the 2 screws holding the front of the tank to the bearing cage. See Figure 67.

Late & w only one brackpt the p t A .

NWE

on

6. Remove the 2 screws holding the rear of the tank to the brackets. See Figare 68. 7. Remove tank h m engine. 8. htdlation is the reverse of removal. Loosely instalstarter to fuel tank, pull starter handle to engage the friction shoe plates against the Starter cup, then tighteqthe starter mounting nuts.

can be removed with a gaad marine engine

tank, including the fuel cap and primer bulb assembly. The adapter thyads into the top of the acts as the fuel pick-up. A screen to the end of the adapter prevents
a warm place, a bacterial form. This clear substance
To remove any dirt or watm+haY may have entered the tank during nfiuifi6 and to prevent the build-up of gum and clean the inside of the tank once each by flushing with clean lead-& gasoline or

Check the inside and outside of the tank for signs of r s ,leakage or corrosion. Replace as ut required. Do not attempt to patch the tank with automotive fuel tank r p i materials. ear Portable marine fuel tanks are subject to much greater pressure and vacuum

1. 2 3. 4.

-S t

M M Fuel tank edap(.r Fud liw ooupiof -1 1 ( s. ~ u am couy.r m (MUM) d i a wm~oupkr 7. Fnu*

a(Ihg((ll.lm
RRknklb

la ~ o t t g t u l m
11. RYIhmc*np 12.RYIM.d.PId

206

CHAPTER SIX

To check the fuel tank adapter screen for possible redctions, remove the adapter and inspect the hose and sueen for damage. Remove w h o s e clamp which holds the screen in place. Remove the screen and clean with solvent, then blow low-pressure compressed air through the plastic collar. See Figwe 70.

FUEL LINE AND PRIMER BULB When priming the engine, the primer bulb should gradually become firm. If it does not become 6rm or if it stays 6rm even when disconnected, the check valve inside the primer bulb is malhctioning. The line should be checked periodically for cracks, breaks, restrictions and chafing. The bulb should be checked periodically for proper operation. Make sure all fuel line connections are tight and securely clamped.
FUEL REURCULATION SYSTEM Larger Chrysler and Force outboard models may be equipped with a fuel recirculation or puddle drain system located on the starboard side of the crankcase housing. This consists of a cover containing directional reed valves and screens which connect each cylinder in the crankcase. See Figure 71. Since the cylinders in an outboard engine do not burn all of the fuel sent to their combustion area, this system provides a method of collecting the excess fuel/oil mixture and routing it to the combustion area of another cylinder. When the system works correctly, it promotes better fuel economy by burning more of the available helloil mixture and also minimizes the pollution caused by fuel/oil in the exhaust.

Correct puddle valve operation is important to good engine operation. If the system fails, crankcase pressure problems will result, causing the following symptoms: a. Poor engine performance at low rpm b. Excessive exhaust smoke c. Stalling or popping at idle d. Poor acceleration To service the puddle drain system, use the following procedures. 1. D i s c o ~ e c t and remove the necessary electrical components positioned in front of the puddle drain cover. 2. Remove the cover, plate and gasket assembly. See Figure 71. 3. Carefully separate the cover from the plate and discard the gasket.

T.L(. 2 REED VALVE SPECICICATIONS

Mukrmm allowabh rood oponlns
0.006 in. 0.012 in. 0.005 in. 0.010 in. 0.010 in.

ED~IM

Naxlmum d i m boRwomn stop and plat*

0.250 in. kO.10 in. 0.210 in. kO.10 in. 0.285 in. k0.10 in. 0.310 in. i0.10 in. 0.280 in. 20.10 in. 0.260 in. 0.210 in. 0.280 in. 0.310 In. k0.10 in. kO.10 in. iO.10 in. kO.10 in.

O In. m .
0.012 in. 0.010 h. 0.010 in.

Chapter Seven

Ignitio~nand Electrical Systems

c3lryskN.S. Marine recornmeads that any battery used to crank an outboard m t r oo have a minimum rating of 70 amp hours.
CAUTION Sealed or maintenance-free batteries are not recommended for use with the unregulated charging systems used on Chrysler and Force outboar&. Excessive charging during continued high-speed operation will cw tha a electrolyte to boil, resulting in its law. S n e water cannot be addeci to such ic battmies, such overcharging will ruin the battery.

chapter provides service precedunar

battery, starter motor on elstart aad each iguition s s e used on ytm and Force outboard motors during

BAlTERY @i marine appliafttiam n r more xigomu8 matmat than

finders, depth finder, etc. required capacity of such the average dischaqe rate of and refer to Table 1. Batteries may be wirad in the ampere hour mp@y

a.suitabk marine

w AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS D 1

NOTE Keep cleaning solution out of the battery cells in Step 6 or the electrolyte will be seriously weakened.

211

6. Clean the top of the battery with a stiff bristle brush using the baking soda and water solution (Figure 6). Rinse the battery case with clear water and wipe dry with a clean cloth or paper towel. 7. Position the battery in the battery tray or container. 8. Clean the battery cable clamps with a stiff wire brush or one of the many tools made for this purpose (Figure 7). The same tool is used for cleaning the battery posts. See Figure 8. 9. R e c o ~ e cthe positive battery cable, then t the negative cable.

CAUTION
Be sure the battery cables are connected to their urowr terminals. Connectinn the batt&vrrYbackwards reverse thi will polarity and damage the m* i.

10. Tighten the battery connections and coat with a petroleum jelly such as Vaseline or a light mineral grease.

212
NOTE Do not ovet$II the battery celh in SrPp 11. The electrolyte expands due to heat from charging and will owrfow i f the level is more than 3/16 in. abow the battery plates.

CHAPTER SEVEN

11. Remove the filler caps and check the electrolyte level. Add diatillad water, if necessary, to bring the level up to 3/16 in. above the plates in the battery case. See

EVsnrr 9.
Hydrometer testing is the best way to check battery condition. U e a hydrometer with s numbered graduations h m 1.100-1.300 rather than one with just color-coded bands. To use the hydrometer, squeeze the rubber ball, insert the tip in a cl and release the ball el

m v e 10).
NOTE Do not attempt to M a W r A h a ey hydrometer immdately &er a&ng
WlgtsrlMk&.-kkb

emwpisaau~ddowthe
l v 5 e r a m i ~ t o n r i x
I. *

h w enough CkCtroIyte to' float the

weighted Boat inskfe the hydromew. When usins a temmramwmnpaasstsd hydrometer, release tbe dsmlyte and rcpeat this

procassseveraltimmtomabewuethe thermometer has .djogtd to t clcctmlyte k temperatun befm taking the mading Hold t e hydrometer VgticaUy and note h the number in line with the surface of the electrolyte (Figure 11). This is the specific gravity for the cell. Raurn t e electrolyte to h the c l h m which it came. el The specific gravity of the eleumlyte in each battery cl is an excellent Micator of el els that cl' condition. A fully chaqed cdl will read 1.260 or more at 80' F (25' C .A cell )

..-

AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

, ' . -

, ,
llD ll I

CWY

213

that is 15 dmgged will read from 1.220-1.230 while w i b a 50 percent charge reads froa lil%fl.180. If the cell tests below 1.128, 'g bs#ery must be mharged and om:

t
I

.~

. .

h 8' F (25' C .For evgt I@ 0 ) 80' F (25' C), subttnct 0.004. a

Battery Storage Wet cell batteries slowly discwhen stored. They discharge faster when warm than when cold. See Table 2. Before storing a battery for the season, clam the case with a s01ution of baking soda and water. Rinse with clear water and wipe dry. The battery &odd be fully charged (no change in specific gravity when 3 r e x h g s are taken 1 hour apart) and then stored in as cool and dry a place as possible.

., .

ChPrgios . A good state of charge should be maintained in batteries used for s t d q . Check the battery with a voltmeter inFig1uel2.Anybatterythrvt~~
..
,

. .

..
.

. -

~.

&.nbt followed, however,

4. Remove the jumper revem order show the mMes atpoint 4,

The &mator and Fom o

W starting can be dangerous. Check the p yte level before jump Starting any battery. If it is not visible or if it appears to be &wen, do not attempt to jump start the barn.

WARNING
Use extreme caution w h n connecting a booster battery to one that is discharged ro avoid personal injury or damage to the system.

n pwves satisfkctory, tt the m lwser. S Q e ~ p t e r ~ , sure that the Wtmy a&ks an praptrfy. m lad a b e ab t o z h e ~ v b ~
3. faclpsd tbe battery terminal, for l m or r o d o l l s . 'Tighten or clean as

in an u n d a e k W b a r n . visual' to tbe proZE7th

aakw-

~icalloadmfhe
liesisgregteqthaatbc

%htM Coil Replacement @T#MricSrut Models)

$ 1

.% ,.~ .

the negative battery cable. 'Bemove the engine cover. ~ ~the flywheal. Seev ~ ~ Chapter Eight. t -Disconnect the

at the &er

CFIgme 18). the black and

5. Alternator CD

leads off the stator spade from the stator. See Fignre 21. 7. Remove the stator mounting sum$, Remove stator from t i g r h rge m ~r Route wires so they do not c n a t or oto interfere with any moving components.

Stator Coil Replacement ( M d Mdl Coaverted to oes htterY~Systsmn) 1. Dimmeet the negative battexy cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the &wheel. See Chapter Eight. 4. Remove the screws holding the alternator stator to the trigger stator. 5. Cut any straps holding stator leads to

7. Installation is the reverse of removal. RoutestatorleadssotheydonotoontacCar i n t e r with any moving components.

Rectifier and

(Except Magnapower II Ignition) Refer to F i e s 17-19 and i;"iePre a2 h' this procedure. IJ ' 1. Disconnect the negative battqy oqsk. : . -.. 2. Remove the engine cover.

c x - u m E R SEVEN
ect all lead wires at the

w.
Fikn r e m ~ i n ga selenium r&&r , f & F m 22). place the wrench on the lmge (inner) hex haad of thefmtener to pevnrt internal damage to the * . i component. 'XJ
1
&$ '

$3! Y,

. !b

CAUTION

w o v e the sorew(s) holding the d e r to the power head or iltounfhg bracket. S Remove the d e r or ramlator-der. 8. btahtion is the reverse of moval.
& @tor-der

-power 1 1 BegdaBorder

Mad& Removdhwtdation 55 and 65 hp) 1. L&connect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 4. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 4. Ramove the capacitor mad111e. See Figolre

a.

5 Remove the scnws and lockwashers

b k h g the regulator-rectifier leads to the able. See Figure 24.

the mguMor-re&f~er lead at . .?ba @mind block. the m w s and lockwashers replator-redtier module to the @igm 25). Remove the
~~EZ&I

is the reverse of mnoval.

Seo Chapter
a t

regulator-

m.

trip reguldrnr to the thetrlplqplatQr.

.,

6. ~ c i o a i s t h e
Circuit Breaker Replammeat . . .7 The circuit breaker is g s n W y h t Q d on or near the terminal b o d . See -38 for typical location. . I
'>

,.,.,.

.,.+.*...

'CHAPTER SEVEN W negative battery cable.

NOTE
lkperdfng upon the cimcit breaker W i @ n and pasitioriiq, it may be
~~cienttoreverseStep3qndSre# J an m e modPLr.

and washers holding to the terminal or crankcase cover. See Figure 29

2

the leads

I $'W).

~th?circuitbnakefierminals.Sel~~

k'h t d a t i o n is the reverse of removal.

GENERATOR CHARGING SYSTEM $. b Autole&ric models use a starter-generator to provide charging current. The system contains a diode which acts as a rectifier, a voltage regulator, circuit breaker, battery and - amne&g wiring. Troubleshooting the system is discussed in Chapter Three. Component replacement is covered in this chapter under Electric Starting System.
1

EIJKTRIC STARTING

sym

or an electric (starter motor or

motm ~r starter-generator and

STARTER MOTOR SYSTEM Marine &wkr motors are very similar in d opedon to thoae found on autwmtivc agka They use an inertia-type driveinwhichextmnalspiralsplinesonthe annature shaft mate with internal splines on the drive assembly. The starter motor produces a very high torque but only for a brief period of time, due to heat buildup. Never operate the starter motor continuously for more than 15 seconds. Let the motor cool for at least 3 minutes before operating it again. If the starter motor does not turn over, check the battery and all COM* wiring for looss or corroded connections. If this does not solw the problem, nfer to Chapter T r e Except for brush r r p b t , service he. to the starter motor by a m a m mechanics is limited to replacemat with a new or rebuilt unit. The starter bracket plate on certain models bolts to bmxa on the crankcase cover. If a crankcase cover boss breaks, a stal starter bracket plate (part No. A191090) can be

8. Instahtion is Position starter with the rear of the errgim.

starter Moeer

.,
,r;;t,.*

,Y,,v.+I~~G~

-.,,'qh id!.,
'

Ilemo. ?..MY (99-15 hp 19794 I. Dkmmectthenegatiwbatk@taWe. 2. Remove the engine cover. . .;. S;P ,. 3. Disconnect the battery lead st, motor terminal. I 4. Remove the 2 c q w w s h o ,& w starter to the starter support housing, f;owsr the starter and remove from the engiae. 5. InstaUation is the reverse of md.

..

SMa MaQr
lemtl t
(1973497%25 & 19'73-1975 30 b s 35 hp 197619TS)

hp, 1 45 hp, 1966 50 hp -1976 55 hp models.

1. Dkmmect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Disconnect the whiWrad and red-timad leads from the sEarter relay uppa W d l d
post 4. Dhnmect the yellow aud bIwk@W leads connected to the mterlockswiticb m e exhaust port cover. 5. LXsmmect the green choke soltnoekS b &

. -.;c

negatiw battery c b . ak

and the black support plate

tsnninalblockm:~tvta aaasstothef~polt

6. Remove the stew

thetllmgw&~-toSee F l g m M

10. Lower the starter from the bracket and m o v e the clamp. 11. Installation is the revme of removal. Make sure to position the fuel line clip under the lower starter bracket port screw and the negative lead from the battery unda the bracket starboard screw.

Starter Motor RemovalAnstallation (1979-1982 U)and 30 hp; 198201125 hp; 198Sw 35 hp) 1. Disco~lnect negative bat?ery cable. the 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the 3 screws holding the starter housing. 4. Remove the 5 screws holding the starter bracket. See F i e 32. Remove the starter. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Starter Motor RemOvavlM* ( 1 ~ 1 9 8 1 3 h# 1966.on 5 4550 hp; 1967-1978 55 hp) 1. DiscoMCCt the negative battee cable. 2. Remove the engine cover.

AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

L.

223

3. If rectifier is mounted on the starter bracket, remove the mounting screws and move rectifier to one side. 4. Disconnect the starter-to-relay @d at the lower front of the starter, 5. Remove the 3 nuts and lot-m from the upper starter bracket studs. See Flgure 33. 6. Remove the 2 screws holding the l'bwer bracket to the crankcase (Figure 34). 7. If choke solenoid interferes with starter removal, remove starboard solenoid W k e t screw. Loosen port bracket scnw tmd reposition solenoid to starboard side. 8. Remove the starter and bracket assembly (Figure 35). 9. If starter is to be removed from braoket assembly, remove the 2 starter through-bolts, holding the commutator and ddve end caps together to prevent the starter from becoming disassembled. Separate starter from brackets. If starter is not to be disassembled, reinstall the through-bolts. 10. If starter is removed from bracket assembly, reinstall by inserting through-bolts and lockwashers through the lower bracket, starter and upper bracket. Install through,bolt locknuts and tighten securely. 11. Install starter and bracket assembly and reverse Steps 1-7 to complete installation.

Starter Motor RemovaVIns~tioo (1979-00 55 hp; AU 60 and 65 hp) 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Disconnect the starter-to-relay M st thp starter terminal. 4. Remove the 3 capscrews and a holding the starter to the pw W T W F i e 36. Remove the starter. -+5. Installation is the reverse of, , i

224

CHAPTER SEVEN

h r t e r Motor Removal/ Wtabtion (70-140 hp) Early models use one of two starter mounts, designated as Type A or T p B. ye Later models all use the T p B mount. ye

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover.

3. Remove the bolts holding the lower starter bracket to the power head. 4. Remove the through-bolt locknuts holding the lower starter bracket to the starter. 5. Disconnect the starter-to-relay lead at the starter terminal. 6. Thread the through-bolts from the power head t h g e and remove the starter motor and bracket assembly. 7. If starter is to be removed from bracket assembly, remove the 2 starter through-bolts (holding the commutator and drive end caps together) to prevent the Wtex frombecoming disassembled Separate starter fiom bracket. If starter i not t be dksembled, kmtall te s o h. through-bolts. 8. If starter is removed Erom bracket assembly, reinscall by inserting &ugh-bolts and lockwashm through the lower bracket and into the starter motor. Install through-bolt locknuts and tighten securely. 9. h&l starter and bracket assembly &d reverse Steps 1-6 to complete installation.
Type B mount

1. Disconnect the nwtive battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the 2 nuts holding the starter to

5. Disconnect the starter-to-relay lead at the starter terminal (C, F i i 3) 7. 6. Lower the starter and remove from the engine. 7. Instahtion is the reverse of removal.

the upper starter bracket (A, FIgme 3 ) 7. 4. Remove the screw holding the lower starter bracket to the crankcase cover (B, EVBPre 37).

Brush Replacement Chrysler and Force outboards use a variety of starter motors, manufactwed primarily by Bosch or Prestolite. Engines may use either a 2- or 4-brush starter design. See Figure 38

1 ) 8.*, Omp 1. 17. A n n t u r 18. Thwrmdwpdmga

re.

FnnwMd1Wdnmnlbly

1 . 8mmrk.d 0 21. tk~kclrnull/C10rrilhloclm*wr 22 Bn*h N I

la.

PWn w d m

'

ZaBMhplrt.ndho#w 24. gphs .( . =ll W , d g .= hp m a t

14. IdIUnhm

a.Hnd.uunbly,connuWsrnd

2 . nnd.runn#r,&htm.nd 7

@brush) and Figure 39 (4-brush) typical for kite components. ~ l w a y s replace ~ e

free of starter housing, Remove end cap, staking care not to lose the kruah mrhm. -

,b

#I. Remove the starter &described in t i hs

h 2 +o -& h@ b ,
from h

Iptarter.

the end cop and bnkk rva replaced an msemMy. Step 4 fmpoction indicates brushes require mpllamnrkt, proceed with Step 9.

" .

43. Lightly tap on end of starter drive with a bba malkt until the lower end cap breaks

4. I n W the brushes in the end cap ( h F m 40) or bntsh holder plate (Figure 41). R e

226

CHAPTER SEVEN

both brushes if either Ts worn to 3/16 in. 5. Remove the

and brush from starter 6. Remove the screw

assembly to the starter frame. 8. ~nstall new ground brush to t b a hw ' holder plate. 9. Fit springs and brushes into brush h * 10. Pressthebrushesintotheholdexsaadw a narrow strip of flexible metal or plastic gs shown in Ngure 42 to keg, them in place. 11. Fit end cap in place, removing the temporary brush retainer as the brush holders slip over the commutator. Align end arp m r with center of positive terminal or end ak cap tab with starter frame notch, as appropriate. 12. Isal through-bolts and tighten to ntl specifications (Table 4).

228
Booeh 4-bnish starter

CHAPTER SEVEN

Fabricate a brush retainer tool from a putty knife with a 1X 1/2 in. oueuixu? as shown in ~igure 43. his tool is ndcessab to position the brushes properly and prevent damaging them when reassembling the starter end cap to the housing. 1. Remove the starter as described in this chapter. 2. Remove the 2 through-bolts and commutator end cap from the starter. Do not lose brush springs from end cap. 3. Inspect the brushes in the end cap. l Replace a l brushes if any are pitted, oil-soaked or worn to 1/4 in. or less. 4. I replacement is necessary, remove the f screws holding the ground brushes. Remove the hex nut and washers from the positive terminal. Remove positive terminal and insulated brushes from the end cap. See Fieme 44. 5. Install new i s l t d brush and terminal nuae assembly in end cap, positioning the long brush lead in the cap slot. See Figure 45. 6. Isal new ground brushes to holder. ntl Tighten Making screws snugly. 7. Fit springs and brushes into the holder. Retain the brushes with the brush holder tool and lower the starter frame in place, aligning the starter frame rib with the cap notch. See F i e 46. 8. Remove the putty knife and install the through-bolts. Tighten bolts to spec%catiom (Table 4).
Prestolite 4-bmh starter

Fabricate a retainer clip from flexible metal for each brush as shown in F e e 47. These clips are necessary to position the brushes properly and prevent damaging them when reassembling the starter end cap to the housing. 1. Remove the starter as described in this chapter.

AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

2. Remove the 2 commutator end cap 3. Remove the washem armature shall, noting 'W sequence of instaUatim for Remove the armature from t b 4. Remove the brushes and qdiigs Oha' brush plate. Remove the brush p " m l t * a s starter frame ( F i i 48). - . 5. Inspect the brushes. Replace ail 8-WSS pitted, oil-soaked or worn to 1/4 in. or & 6. If brush replacement is required, t b positive terminal and insulated bn&i assembly from the starter frame. 7A. Early models-Cut the ground lsrush leads at the point where they are attached to the field coils. File or grind solder from ends of field coil leads. 7B. Late models-Remove the screw h o w the ground brush assembly to the starter frame. Remove the ground brush assembly. 8. Install a new positive tenninal and insulated brush assembly. 9A. Early models-Use rosin soldering flux and solder the ground brush leads to the back sides of the field coils, making sure they are in the right position to reach the brush holders

Bausn nsrutuna

TOOL DIMRNSIOWI

CHAPTER SEVEN

maids-Install a new ground brush

plate, aligning the plate slot. See Figure
'
7

'~~~~ the brush springs and brushes in

&a plate .od hold each in p k with a

.mriateddip. 12. Install armature in starter frame. When ammutator ft between the brushes, remove is the fabricated clips and let the brushes move

ha position. t 13. lnstallendcaptostarterfraKie~~~ mark with positive t e r m i d 4) 9. 14. Install and tighten through-bolts to ~catiom (Table 4).

~~

Stuter Solenoid
Bhhu)Replecearent

.,i
.

*
.

types

of so1enoids (relays) arc; used. the negative battery cable. win colora ogrmGctad to cach

each terminal and

holding the solenoid

ve the solenoid (relay). reverse of removal. Be

the interlock &h.

.-

. . .

4. Remove the 2 mounting screws rut$

washers. Remove the switch. 5. htallation is the reverse of ram&

Terminal Block Replacement Refer to Figwe 53 (typical) for this

procedure. 1. Disco1111ect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Disconnect each lead wire &om the terminal block. If the wire connection decal on the power head is damaged, be sure to write down the color and location of each wire before disconnectjng it. 4. Remove the 2 mounting screws. Remove the terminal block. 5. Installation is the reverse of remod.
AUTOLECIWC STARTER-GENERATOR

SYSTEM
The Autolectric system is used on 1966-1975 20 hp models and 19661975 9.2-15 hp engines with magneto breaker point ignitions.
Startersenerator Cover

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the screws holdisg , fh@ starter-generator cover to the h* o Ljff the cover up and off the housing. 8ee
54.

4. Disamnectthe light socket a the x 5. Dimnnect the socket at the r&mr cover. 6. If light socket reqnireS fkom the c w gmmmd. a

if newsmy.

qpwr mbut and daavn toward the rear of

biaclr light socket lead to the mountim screw, the cover tighten

the negati\le htwy cable.

P

Rep-

WertoFIlpne55(9.2-15hp)orBismeS

fl#Ewthigprooedure. DkonnW the negative battery able. '1$, Remove the engine cow. 3. Remove thc --gemrator cover as

k
L

' ~ b c d i n t h i s c ~ '. 4. Ch& the brushes. If pitted, oracked, -&-waked ar ~ v o m tess than half their to
'W*E.taudn rap-t

v. "

b'

PaldooeawbhMaoan is requkd, remove

~~~holdingthebmhestotheho~. P '~~brwh~backuntilthebrushes

k. i%isarthebpringrsPndmowMfrom~

rear of the M.
I

*.

r. ..:
'

..

Starter-generator Housing Removal/Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the engine cover.

3. Remove the starter-generator cover, brides and springs as described in this chapter.

4. Disconnect the starter lead wires at the If mounted to starter solenoid. starter-generator housing, remove the solenoid as described in this chapter.
5. On 20 hp models, disconnect the starter lead wire at the housing terminal (Figure 58) and remove the clamp holding the starter-generator lead wires to the transfer port cover (Figure 59).

6. Disconnect the gray starter-generator lead from the terminal block on the voltage regulator.

7. Disconnect the red starter-generator lead from the diode terminal.

8. Remove the screws holding the startergenerator housing to its support. See 60 (9.2-15 hp) or Figure 61 (20 hp). Remove the housing.
9. Installation is the reverse of removal, plus the following:
a. 9.2-15 hp-Position housing on support with housing l e d facing toward front

234

CHAPTER SEVEN

and slightly toward the port side of the engine. b. 20 hp-Position housing on support with starter lead wire terminal facing to rear port side of engine.

7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten hex bolt to specifications (Table 3).

Starter-generator Support and Bearing Removal (9.2-15 hp) Armature RemoveYInstaIlation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the starter-genemtor housing as described in this chapter. 4. Remove the hex bolt, plain washer and spring lockwasher holding the annature to the crankshaft. 5. Install annature puller part No. T 2984 (9.2-15 hp) or part Ro. T 8983 (20 hp) in amature threads. Tighten puller until armature is free from crankshaft. See Figure 62 (9.2-15 hp shown). 6. Remove armature, armature key and spacer h m crankshaft.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the starter-generator housing and annature as described in this chapter. 4. Remove the circuit breaker bracket from the starter-generator support. 5. Remove the voltage regulator and starter interlock switch as described in this chapter. 6. Discolmect the battery lead at the starter-generator support. 7. Remove the screws holding the support to the power head. Remove support. 8. Remove the magneto flywheel spacer from the crankshaft.

AND ELECI'RICAL SYSTEMS

starter-generator bearing from

6. Install the starter interlock switch and voltage regulator as described in this chapter. 7. Install the circuit breaker bracket to the support. 8. Install the armature and starter-generator housing as described in this chapter. 9: Install the engine cover and recame& t b negative batteq cable.

eter of starter-generator No. 75. Install bearing

Sbrter-geaerator Support and Bearing Removal (20 hp) 1. Disconnect the negative

4ir
' 3 ,

screws and drive the the crankshaft until tho

Rem~ve~.~pOWCrr&&:~""~

6. Ramcwe the magneto flywheel spaex &omthecrankshaft. 7. pI.8se re tor bemhgs from suppoa with spaciat tooI part No. T 8937.

SeengmM.

Starter-generator Support and Bearing Installation (20 hp)

4. Wipe outer diameter of second bearing with Loctite No. 75. Position bearing on crankshaft above the one installed in Step 3. 5. Using tool part No. T 8937, drive both bearings M e r on the crankshaft until the bottom bearing presses tightly against the flywheel spacer. 6. Install the armature and starter-generator housing as described in this chapter. 7. Install the engine cover and reconnect the negative battery cable.

1. I s a lthe magneto flywheel spacer on the ntl crankshaft. 2. Install starter-generator support. Wipe mounting screw thread with Loctite H and install with lockwashers. Do not tighten screws at this time. 3. Wipe outer diameter of starter-generator bearing with Loctite No. 75. Install bearing on support with special tool part No. T 8937. See F@re 64 (typical). Drive bearing into supgat uutil it is flush with the top surface of the beariug boss, then tighten the support mounting smew.

Light Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the nut holding the switch to the support plate. 4. Remove the switch and disconnect the 2 leads from the terminals at the rear of the switch. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Switch should be positioned with its end

AND ELJKTRICAL SYSTEMS starter-generator Starter Motor Sy&w Replacement in this

237

(4 others). See

._

lock Switch
I

Terminal Block Re (20 hp) $&'-A See Starter Motor &MWB Block Replacement in this: , , i : .t ir
! .. .
Circuit Breaker Replecemedt
.'

.. ,

The circuit b e k r is mouo$ad on a rae terminal board on AutoIesUk the diode ( W e r ) and* Alternator Charging Systm Replacement in this chaptar.
Diode (Rectifier) Replooamant . . .. . . The diode ( d e r ) terminal board w t the ih ... r . , ' resistor. 1. kM& the ncgatiVII,Qkrsgi&& ,& 2. Remove the engine oover. . I . , .T . 3. Disco~ectthe leads at tlH5 && 'Sea Figure 67 ( y i a ) tpcl. the 4. Remove the w t and diode to the t e n d bsnrgT it@%&, tyke diode. 5. hutallation is the nveftc ofm&aI. On 20 hp engines, diode termiBal should f the w rear of the engine. . . Resistor Rmeo , The resistor is mounted rn a termid boardwiththecircpit~ilnddiade
~

..

. .

< :

for r&staUation reference. the nut from each terminal and the wir~$s] from the terminals.

is the reverse of removal. Be

(redler). 1. Disco~ect negativd the cable. 2. Remove the wghe ca~ar. 3. Disco~theWipCQg5themistor(F4gure

~~

as).
Switch Rephcsment swiwh is mounted

w the

ba& r&

(20 hp) or

4. Remove the smw holding the nsistor clamp t the top (20 hp) o rear (all others) o r terminal b a d m u t n boss. Remove the onig resistor and clamp.

238

43UPTER SEVEN

and m o w from

h &c

mmie of removal.

1. ~ t h e d w ~ c g M d . 2. Remow the w e aver. 3. 2 h p - D k o ~ e c t the voltage w 0 r to-diode I&. *

1.

MOTE

, -

::

2
?,.

Removal an8
regdaor

on 20

srcpI&&ep

=dtestp-xs-&+.

Refer to

~~fqc' Upa&?b&ootiw , . ;,
, ...
,

>

Manual start moasb itw I mqpwto ignition with a combbed ph y r m4 ignition coil, *oyldemwr 4mw rst of

a stator plate. T e primmy h

connectstothestationary~~&

AND ELEXXRICAL SYSTEMS

the stator plate. The secondary coil connects to the spark plug grounded to the stator plate. pter Three for a schematic of a magneto ignition showing the ktim and relationship of the components. bubleshooting and test procedures are also

239
that is sent to the No. 1 spark plug. The condenser absorbs any midual current remaining in the primary windings. This eliminates arcing at the points and produces a stronger spark at the plug. The bmkcr points t ~ close and the flywheel ~ o l l t i n u e o rotate, duplicating the sequence in 2-cylinder engines for the No. 2 point set and ignition coil to 6re the No. 2 spark plug. Stator P a e RernovaYInstallation lt
(19661969 3.5 hp)

+flywheel rotates, magnets around its r create a current that flows osed breaker mints. This flow ugh the coil primary winding magnetic field in the coil winding. When the cam opens the set, the magnetic field collapses, a high voltage (approximately volts) in the coil secondary winding

1. Remove the fuel tank. See Chapter Six. 2. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 3. Remove the 2 screws holding the throttle cam and magneto control lever bracket to the stator plate. 4. Remove the clamp whbh holds the spark plug lead wire to the support plate. 5. Disconnect the spark plug lead from the spark plug. 6. Loosen the friction shoe arsembly about 1/4 in. See F i 71. 7. Remove stator plate from support plate. 8. To reinstall, route the spark plug l a ed around the throttle cam bosses (Figure 72) and then position the stator plate on the Support plate. 9. Install throttle cam and magneto control lever bracket as follows: a. Move stator plate to N1 retard position (throttle cam bosses on stator toward starboard side). b. Install screw, throttle cam and lever bracket to starboard side boss on stator. See F i i 73.
NOTE Note position of lever bracket Wh ., throttle cam directly unde7 head d-. . screw-particularly recessed area q bracket casting betbo. magneto control i m r and t M 6 e suNace.

W B h l l t b Bywbeel lebrp(raEigW and g & @ ~ . @ + a p tsix>. m

mQ s s r I d - bpd *s .

5. Loosen the fiiction gcraarr.olt thc; front of . the stator plate about 114 6. Disconnect the ground lea& Pd &e stop .r switch and crankcase cover. 7. Remove the stator plate from &B
head. 8. Invert stator plate and remove the t&mt@ cam and lever assembly. 9. Installation is the reverse of r m o ~ s l . Adjust throttle pick-up and stator f t i d h screw to prevent stator from creeping at wide-open throttle.

Stator Plate Removal/InstPllation (2cylinder Engines) 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 3. Disconnect the spark plug leads at the spark plugs. Remove plug leads from exhaust port cover clip, if so equipped.

NOTE
On some engines, the ground lead is attached under one of the stator mounting screws.

4. Discomeet the stator ground lead at the fuel pump or stator, as appropriate. 5. Remove the stator mounting sclawa Sas Flgare 76 for typical location. . 6. Disconnect stop switch w r s at fh~#% ie i d support plate, if so 7A. Tower shaft spark control ln SWI ik shaft. See Flgare 77. 7B. Throttle cam m d l oes to port side to discomect cam link. , > , 8. Remove the stator pktk . 9. If equipped with a ' ~ vs hst stator plate. Remom bend cam tab mo@ t . rbst& .P&!tj am wires and m o x ~ t &gf@Wd@& b ~ fbm the statox.
-I I $ _
* I

8-

242 10. I n W W h is the mm of removal. ee Adjucs the bM&m points (Chapter Four). Adjust tlie tbmttlc pick-up and ignition

CHAPTER SEVEN

limingas&SaeChapterFive. -Podnt.nd
CollQwr Rephccmeat

See Tune-up,Chapter Four. C Q i I B e m o ~

I. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 3. Remove the stator plate as described in this chapter. 4. Lkmnnect the coil lead wires at the breaker p i t and ground. See Ffgw 78 on (typical). 5. Useapakofplhaudstraightentheooil laminationwhich~thCCOiLSecFlppe 79 (typical). 6. Rythelipofthedwedgespringhm the coil laminations w t a mwdtiver, then ih pull coil fhe of lamhatiom. Be sure to note
how thesparkplugladismuted. 7. R e m c n r e t h e ~ a m n a n d s p r i n g h m theendoftbecoilsparkpluglead, 8. Pull t spa& piq lead throug6 the stator b 13. Pull any excess plug wire through the plate~etandrsm~vethecoil. stator plate, then bend the b t o lamhation otm 9 . ~ ~ n i a s t a . l ~. o a , p o s i t i o n i t a t t h e l a up with pliers to retain the coil in p a e lc. with spark plug lead plate1. Connect the coil lead wires to the breaker 4

mutedasnatedinSttp6. 10. Fitcoilwedge~incuilwithsmalllip facing downward toward crankplhaft. 11.Insert coil halfway iato lamination, making sure that the spark plug wire remains properly routed. lmxt end of wire thrwgh grommet in stator vlab. 12. Push down on & until the wedge spring I snaps into place at the reg^. of the laminations. The large lip on the spring must be positioned over the front surface of the
coil.

point set and ground. 15. Risal the sparkie spring and conr on entl the end of the plug wire, makingsure that the springcontactsthewireinsidetheinsulation. 16. Reverse Steps 1-3 to complete instabtion.

BATTERY BBEABEB POINT IGNITION Some 2 - c y h k electric start models use a battery ignition with a condenser and one s t e

ON AND ELEcrrUCAL SYSTEMS

a43
primary winding builds a strcJmg field in the coil secondary windbg, W h 6 b breaker plate opens the No. 1 point ast, the magnetic field collapses, inducing a high voltage (approximately 15,000 volts) i t n% coil secondary winding that is sent to tbe No. 1 spark plug. The condenser absrbs residual current remaining in the primary windings This eliminates arcing at the points and produces a stronger spark at the plug. W d e the breaker points close, the sequence is duplicated for the No. 2 point set and ignition coil to lire the No. 2 spark plug.
Operation (3- and 4cyIlnder) Battery ignitions using a distributor work essentially the same as those with a bmker plate, except that the distributor determines which spark plug will receive the firing voltage, a are fired by the operation of a single breaker point set one ignitioncoil. Breaker Plate Remov~tallution Refer to Figure 80 for this procedure. 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Disconnect the spark plug leads at the spark plugs. 3. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Ewt. 4. Pull the breaker point leads from the sNe terminals. 5. Remove the 2 screws holding the spade terminals in place. Remove the terminals. 6. Remove the 3 screws holding the stator to the bearing cage. 7. Lift the stator up and over the crank&@ end. Carefully place stator to one side. 8. Remove the 3 clips, disconnect the $ & control l n and remove the ik 9, Installation is the revem8 Position clips so their long The hole in each tab shovkl

1
mounted linder has an coil. The of the coil connects to the er point and the battery. The section of the coil connects to the ug and is also grounded to the stator early 75 and 105 hp electric start a distributor battery ipsition. head, the distributor jnts and is condenser mounted and a single ignition coil and test procedures are the ignition switch is in the RUN current flows f o the battery rm winding of the ignition the breaker points are

'i .,I!

a(

244

CHAPTER SEVEN

mmting screw holes. Adjust ignition (ChapterFive).

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the engine cover.

3. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 4. Disconnect the spark plug leads at the spark plugs. 5. Disconnect the whitelblack and blue leads from the distributor housing terminals. See A, Figure 81. 6. Disconnect the distributor-to coil lead at the coil. See B, Figure 81. 7. Loosen the screw on each distributor cap retaining clip (C, Figure 81), then remove distributor cap assembly from housing. 8. Disconnect ground lead. See D, Figure 81. 9. Remove the 2 bolts holding the distributor bracket to the power head (E, F i 81). 10. Slip distributor belt off pulley and remove the distributor bracket and housing from the engine. 11. Installation is the reverse of removal. Adjust ignition timing (Chapter Five).
Breaker Point and Condenser Replacement See Tune-up, Chapter Four. Ignition Coil Removavlnstallation (hylinder Engine) li Dh~onnect negative battery cable. the 2. Remove the enginbcover. 3 lh?onnect the spark plug leads at each .

NOTE
A crowsfoot socket wrench or a thin

open-end wrench must be used to remove the lower coil clamp screws in step 5.

5. Remove the 2 upper and 2 lower coil clamp mounting screws. See Figure 82. 6. Remove the coils. 7. To r i s a l connect a blue lead to the entl, positive (+) terminal of each coil. 8. Connect the white lead to the negative (-) terminal of the top coil and the brown lead to the negative (-) terminal of the bottom coil. 9. Fit the coils in place and install the coil clamp. Be sure to reinstall the rectifier ground lead under the upper left hand bracket screw. 10. Connect the spark plug leads to their respective coils.
Ignition coil ~emovd/Ins&tion (3- and 4-cylinder E ) 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Disconnect the distributor-to-coil lead at the coil.

d. l
4. JX@&ect the blue and white leads from ths Bap dbilr Diaonnect the blue and brown leade fiosl t3ae bottom coil.

ON AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

245

Troubleshooting and t procedures are s t given in Chapter Thm- ,Adjust ignition timing after replaanycinsqptponents. Operation

Battery current is stored in the C!D module. It is also sent to the distriW 'Rtka?re it flows
through the closed breaker palais. Whtn the distributor cam opens the -lp#bts, it interrupts the current flow and cm the CD a module to discharge its stored current into the ignition coil. Breakerless distributors use a preyphfier instead of breaker points. The preamp& is a switching device which contab a light-emitting diode and a l i g h t 4 w switch. The current to the &&butor e n e m the lightemitting diade. A a t p on the distributor rotor contains a Winaiow for each cylinder. As the distributm shaft wtates the rotor cup, these windows allow t h ~ tliode to trigger the light-sensitive d & The t. switch signals the CD module to d h h t g c its stored current into the ignition d. In each system, the coil steps up the current to 25,000-32,000 volts which is then sent to the appropriate spark plug through the distributor. Disconnect the blue, white and M l a c k leads at the coil terminals. Unbolt the coil mounting bracket and aove bracket and coil assembly. Instabtion is the reverse of removal.
I

Distributor Removal/ Inetallation See Battery Breakzr P i t Zgidtion in this on chapter. Breaker Point Replacement

DISTRIBUTOR CD IGNITION w b u t o r CD ignitions may use a breaker h t or breakerless distributor. The @ibutor (belt-driven by the crankshaft) is m d on the power head along with a t e p a c i t o r d i s c (CD) module and a single ~ $tion coil. Terminal block connections are own on the exhaust port cover decal.

See Tune-up, Chapter Four.

Delta CD Module

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Refer to Pigme 83 and disconnect the blue, white and whitelblack leads from the blue, white and tan washer terminals.

and white lads from (+) and negative (-)

the 3 bolts h d c-

the

Rsm~ve CD the

7. hstallation is the reverse of removal, plus the following: a. Install the coil clamp hex head screws with a steel washer and fiber washer under the head of each screw. b. Install the plastic washer between the clamp and CD module.

-Ionitioea

tio on

positive (+) and negative (-) the black coil lead Etom the the distributor-toail lead at

the coil &om the clamp.

Motoroh CD Module (Part No. 404301 and 404301-1) RemovalAnstallation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. D~SCOM~C~ module blue and white the CD lead wires at the terminal block. 4. Disconnect the gray lead wire at the coil positive (+) terminal. See F i e 84. 5. Disconnect the whitelblack lead wire at the distributor terminal stud. 6. Remove the screws holding the CD module to the bracket. Remove the CD module. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal, plus the following: a. Install the black coil ground wire under the bottom right screw. b. Route the blue and white lead w r s ie behind the CD module bracket and wrap around the wiring harness to prevent them from contacting the flywheel.

otorola Ignition Coil

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the engine cover. Disconnect the gray lead wire at the coil &ve (+) terminal. See Figure 84. l%connect the black lead wire at the coil Wve (-) terminal. Disconnect the distributor-to-coil lead at
a coil.

Remove the screws holding the coil clamp the CD module bracket. Remove coil, nnp and spacer from power head. Remove coil from clamp. 1

Motorola CD Module (Part No. K494301-2,.ad Ma301-1) Removdhtdhtion Refer to Figure 85 for this produff. 1. Disconnect the negative Bt yable. t& 2. Remove the engine cow. 3. Disconnect the whiteMu?&3cadwi@ at the distributor housiq tuminaE s& t 4. Disco~ect CD modde &tie$ the and white lead wires at the t%nnibal bl5. Disconnect the disttibutor-to-dl p u M lead at the distributor. 6. D i s w ~ e c the distributor-mil W at t the coil. 7. Remove the fasteners holding @ module to the power head. RemoW k C D module. 8. Installation is the reverse of removd, plus the f o l l o ~ a. Route the whitelblack 1 4 bhinB the tower shaft. b. Route the blue, red and white k b wm the power head, under the flywheel and down to the t e d block. c. Tighten mounting fbtenm t~ specifications (Table 4).

Motorola Ignition Coil (Part NO. K404301-2Pnd A523301-1) Remov~tallation Refer to Figwe 86 for this p~~O&rn. 1. Remove the CD mod& ar M d in k this chapter. 2. Disconnect the lead W ~ W the coil a t

Wallation is the reverse of removal, plus r follok Install rubber band on top and bottom portion of coil that 66 under the clamp. b Install the coil clamp screws with a steel 1: washer and phenolic washer under the h#ld of each screw. a install the spacer between the ends of t"the coil clamp.

terminals.
3. Remove the 8 ~ aed laolcwashers ~ 8 holding the coil and cdae3p to the CD module. Separate d and cIamp from CD l module. 4. InstaUation is the reverse of removal, plus the following a. InsM r b baod on top and battom uM portion of mil that fits under the clamp.

9. Reconnect the lead , * a a : a e e See Figwe 88. 10. I s a l the washem, ntl and nuts. Place a M e e n the retainer retainer legs. When nuts evenly*there should gauge. See Figme 90. , 11. With t w r shaff d i a w ~ . oe pivot arm, connect a spring sale arm outer hole (Figure 91). R o w : ring manually to check friction. Scale ahoirld read 4-6 pounds (55-65 hp) or 3-5 pa& (105-135 hp). 12. If scale reading in Step 11 is not spedcations, tighten or loosen nuts (Map 1.8) evenly (but no more than 1/8 tum) to obtain the ~ r o ~ friction. er 13. -&em Steps 1-3 to complete

&

ipstallation.

Alte-r Stator Modde Removal~ti08 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter I&&t, 4. Disconnect t e lead wires at the altemtw h itator module. See Figure 92.

29
I. b w the ws and washers holding the t t h h g ring retainer in place (Figure 87).
~ t h e ; ~ e r .

R SEVEN

6, h o v e the 2 studs holding the alternator ~ f module to the bearing cage ( F i e 93). h Rr?move the alternator stator module. 7. To reinstall the module, complete Steps 7-13 of CD Module and Timing Ring Retainer Removal/Znstallation in this chapter. Connect the lead wires as shown in m e 92.

Capacitor Module RemovaVInstallation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 4. Remove the nuts and washers holding the timing ring retainer in place (Figure 87). Remove the retainer. 5. Disco1111ect the lead wires at the capacitor module. See Figure 94. 6. Remove the 2 studs holding the capacitor module to the bearing cage (Figure 95). Remove the capacitor module. 7. To reinstall the module, complete Steps 7-13 of CD Module and Timing Ring Retainer Removal/Znstallation in this chapter. Connect the lead wires as shown in

Regulator-rectifier Module Remo~tallation (63 hp and 105-135 hp) 1. Remove the cppacitor module as dascribGd in this chapter. 2. Dkomxt the 2 regulator-rectifier leads at the alternator stator module. See Figure 92. 3. DhnukW the regulator-rectifier lead at the k r m M Muck.

4. Remove the 2 srrcws hdding,, regulator-lwtiffer to the bePring m&e %). Remove the regulator--. 5.. Installation is the reverse o removal. f

(55 and 65 hp)

1. J3scmnnect the negative battery CBWR 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter EipU 4. Dsonc the leads at the reg&to& icnet d e r . See Figure 97. 5. Remove the 2 screws holding the regulator-mtilierto the power head. Remow the regulator-der. 6. Installation is the reverse of removal.

'i k rm w
1. Dimnnect the negative battery c8blc.. , 2. Remove the engine cover, 3. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Wt. 4. Dicrconaect the spark ~~tltrol frontlink timingriaOarm.S=Figure98(~E 5. 55-65 hp-Remove tbe capaoltor m

asdescribwiintbbchaptet. 6. 105-135 h p - R g m ~ ths asded~inthi,cha~. 7. 60 anB 105-135 hp

~ ~ m a d 4 l l e a s

252

CHAPTER SEVEN

Trigger Assembly and Module Bemov~tim (5565hp) The trigger assembly consists of 2 individual trigger modules.
1. Remove the timing ring as described in

ti chapter. hs
2. Disco~ectthe lead w r s at the trigger ie modules. See Figure 100. 3. Remove the 4 screws and ground lead holding the trigger assembly to the bearing ca%e. 4. Pry trigger assembly free of bearing cage w t a screwdriver (Figure 101) and remove ih from engine. 5. To remove one module from the mounting plate, bend the metal tab down v i e 102) and slip the module from the plate. 6. hutallation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to reinstall the ground lead under the head of the rear starboard mounting screw.

The trigger aiwmbly m a & nk 'b i d v d a trigger moduks. niiul I 1. ~ ~ t h e n ~ t i v e ~ c g .b l & . 2. Remove t e engine cover. h .. 3. Remove the Byvd~eel. Chapkr J. See 3 & 4. Disconnect the lead win?a at the modules. ! Figom 103. b 5. Remove the 4 screws. holding the gsaembly tothebeariag* SeeFiKm1w. 6. Remove trigger assembly from bm&g
tr

cage.

7. To m o v e one module from the mounting plate, bend the metal tab d m (IQure 1W) and slip the module from the plate. 8. ImWation is the reverse of removal.

--

cd

When removing more than one mil on a 3or 4-cylinder engine, it ig a good idea to dtaw

@k

& % I

CHAPTER SEYEN

r diagram of the wrn to assure proper iig

~cconnectionof the leads. See Figore 106 (eCylinder engine). 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Diswnnect the spark plug lead at the coil. A Remove the screws and washers holding the coil to the power head. Remove the mil. 5. Disconnect the lead wires at the coil terminals. 6. Repeat Steps 3-5 for each coil to be removed. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten coil mounting screws to spedications (Table 4).
ALTERNATOR CD IGNITION

RCTAINIW CLIP

This system is used on electric start 7.5-35 hp engines. The major components include the flywheel, alternator stator, trigger stator, stator ring or throttle cam, CD module, iguition coils, spark plugs and connecting wiring, See Figure 107 (typical). Ignition timing should be adjusted whenever a component is r p a e . elcd
I

'j

The outer rim of the flywheel contains a mks of magnets which create a magnetic field during rotation. This magnetic field duts the stator winand produces an dtmdng current (AC) of 225 volts. T i hs wltftgcb m to the CD module where it is t
and stored in a aipacitor.

stator aed a magndc

coil.Thkieequenoercpeotrigdf~bx(gasthe

fiywhedrotates. -thestop~ ~ ~ ~ t h s ~ a t

1. k M e c t t h e ~ v e b r \ t t a y c 9 b l e , 2 Remove the engine coves. . 3. Remove the flywheel. See Chaptep Bjsht,
4. Dhmnect the stator leads at tbir

c4mneuors. 5. Remove the screws holding the stator to the trigger stlitor. See P @ e 108. Remove the
stator. 6, hdhtion is the m v ~ 8 of mmowl. e

1. Dismmathemwbattaryrrrt%e. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3.ltelnowtlliem& s t &. 4. Rbmmthegncnrmkddhgthestatorto tlk~sSa~r.Sselplemd~.

CHAPTER SEVEN
5. Disconnect the 2 greedyellow leads at the rectilier (Figure 110). 6. Unwrap the wiring harness cover to separate the stator and tr&r leads. 7. h ~ & lead connectors the atator

m u r e 111).
8. Remove the stator. 9. hmdlatian it the reverse of removal.

mBper Stator RemovaUbWation (7.5-15 hp) 1. Remove the alternator stator as described in this chapter. 26. 7.5 hp-Disconnect the trigger lead Wires at the 2 connectors. 23. 9.6-15 hp-Disconnect the trigger lead w h at the tenninal block. Disconnect the gn,und lead at the power head. 3. Remove the trigger stator mounting
screws.

4A. 7.5 hp-Disconnect trigger stator link connector at the ball-joint stud and remove the stator. 4B. 9.6-15 hp-Lift trigger stator off to one side and disconnect the throttle cam link. Remove the stator. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Trigger Stator t Removalhstallation (20-35 hp) 1. Remove the alternator stator as described in this chapter. 2. Remove the trigger stator mounting screws. 3. Remove the ground lead mounting screw. See Figure 112.

AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

257

3. Disxmnect the mod& ' * W 'a the conneetots. L!.?:lb;,z, 4 Disconnect the module grotmi . 5. h n n e c t one spade tend& .@ stop switch (Figure 113). ,., -, . .~ 6. Disconnect the spark plug leed " " 7. Remove the 2 module mount& & ,-. (Figure 114). Remove the module. 8. Repeat Steps 3-7 to remove thvthe;r Cjt) module, if .n 9. Installation is the reverse of removal.
, '
1

a
O . :

CD Module R e m o ~ t a l l n t i o n (9.6-15 hp)

1. h n n e c t the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Disconnect the module lead w i m at the
temhal M &

4 Disconnect one spade terminal from the . stop switch (Figure 113). 5. h n n e c t the brown and white lead wires at the coils. 6. Remove the 2 module mounting scnws (Figure 115). Note that the CD m d l oue ground lead is anached to the starboard mounting screw and a battery cable I IB d attached to the port screw. 7. Remove the module. 8. InstaUation is the revem of m o d .

1. IXtxonnect the negative battgy 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the 2 CD mduk screws. Remove the

..

Marine intraduccd this i n t o giin 980 55 hp engines. Its use was to thc 1982-1984 125 h p w e and $983-1984 75 hp and 85 hp e&m. It on 1984 and later Force 85 hp
am sim&
to

4. Disumnect the 2 at the rectifier.

stator leads

3-cylinder engines have 2 EO-ar plugs side-by-side to d&onnect in Skp

5.

NOTE

5. Disconnect the stator lead . a@ the connector plug. , , 6. Remove the 4 screws hol* t sb&ir to & the trigger housing. Lift stator frma "trigger housing. 7. Installation is the reverse of remw+fwaJ:

Trigger Housing V, RemovalAnstallation '1 1. Remove the stator as ddW./aqbis chapter. ?I ci

NOTE : 3-cylinder engines have 2 w r , plugs side-by-side to disconmt .&/Sq''_ I .. . 2. See Figure 119.
',,i.

I'

2. JXscomect the trigger holad at the connector plug. See F i i l a . 3A. 55 and 125 hp-Disw1111ect &@'spark control link at the tower Ses Fl@re 120 (typical). 3B. 75 and 85 hp-Remove the tawst shaft support ( F i i 121). Remove sparlc vontrol link fastener (Figure 122). Lift tower shaft

CHAPTER SEVEN

about 112 in. and disconnect spark wntrol Liak. 4. Remove trigger housing from bearing
cage. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Igaition Coil

(55 and 125 hp) 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Disconnectthecoilleadatthe~plug. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector between the wil and the CD module. 5. Remove the 2 screws and lockwashers or nuts holding the wil to the cylinder head. 6. Repeat Steps 3-5 for each coil to be removed. 7. htabtion is the reverse of removal, plus the following a. Reinstall the ground lead under the top mounting scnw on each coil. b. Connact the omage wim oommtor plug from the C moduletotheNo. l ( 5 5 D hp) or No. 1 and No. 3 (125 hp) wil(s). c. Connect the red wire connector plug from the CD module to the No. 2 (55 hp) or No. 2 and No. 4 (125th~) wil(s).

Ignition Coil RemwaV InWIation (75 and 85 hp) 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine wver. 3. Dso ict e wil leads at t e spark h h

PMs

4. Remove the 3 jbteners holdiug the ek&cal wmponents bracket to the power

hcad.seeFigmol23. 5. IXsmnnect the electrical plug between sach coil and the eD module. See Nguw 124. 5. ~ t h e ~ e w h o l d i s g e a c h w i l t o &@ h o v e the oi() ols.

ON AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEn

reverse of removal. Be and reconnect the ground leads
Module R e m o v m t i o n

4. D k ~ n n e c t 2 small lector plugs. the See Figure 1 6 (55 hp). 2 5. Disconnect the white CD modttla lead at the terminal block (Figwe 126).
'ly

NOTE
I f the engine has been previously

engine uses 1 CD module; 4-cylinder engine has 2 modules. negative battery cable. Remove the engine cover. 2 large connector plugs

overhauled, it is possible that tha ground lead in Step 6 was relocrU& it cannot be easily located, proceed t u Step 7. When the module is r e m a d \ the ground lead positioning will b c w eo , evident. ,,

.-

6. Remove the top center cylindet hW&IP which holds the black CD ground lead. Disconnect the ground lead. See F i i 126 for the 55 hp engine; the 125 hp is 7. Remove the 2 nuts, washers, b and bolts holding the CD module. 8. 125 hp-Repeat Step 7 to remove the other CD module, if necessary. 9. Installation is the reverse of nmonal, Install the black ground lead under the cylinder head bolt and tighten bolt to 225 in.-lb.

CD Module RemovaVInstallatiw (75 and 85 hp)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Disconnect the 2 large connector pl- (A and B, Figure 127). 4. Remove the 3 fasteners holding the electrical components bracket to the power ?C head. See Figure 123. 5. Disconnect the electrical plug between each coil and the CD module. See Figure 128. 6. Disconnect the white CD module leads at the tenninal board. 7. Remove the right mounting screw from the bottom (No. 3) coil and disconnect the CD module ground leads. See Figure 124. 8. Remove the 2 nuts, washers, bushings and bolts holding the CD module. Repeat this

ia the reverse of ternoval.

b.

ti

pmmw the hex nut holding the switch to

- et ma

the negative battery able.

mr lbax or inmment panel. to Remove the switch and h ~ e a the t 8 4 wiree. See Figure 129 (Motorola) or

130 (Pmtolite). 4. batallation is the reverse of itmovaL

o.oa1o

point. -point.

Chapter Eight

Power Head

This chapter covers the basic repair of Chrysler and Force outboard power heads, except for the aircooled 3.5 hp (1966-1969) and 3.6 hp. The procedures involved are similar From model to model, with minor differences. Some procedures require the use of special tools, which can be purchased From a dealer. Certain tools may also be fabricated by a machinist, often at substantial savings. Power head stands are available fro& specialty shops such as Bob K d s Marine Tool Co. (P.O. Box 1135, Winter Garden, FL 32787). Work on the power head requires considerable mechanical ability. You should carefully consider your own capabilities before attempting any operation involving major disassembly of the engine. Much of the labor charge for dealer repairs involves the removal and disassembly of other parts to reach the defective component. Even if you decide not to tackle the entire power head overhaul after studying the text and illustrations in this chapter, it can be cheaper to perform the prehinary operations yourself and then take the power

head to your dealer. Since many marine dealers have lengthy waiting lists for service (especially during the spring and summer season), this practice can reduce the time your unit is in the shop. If you have done much of the preliminary work, your repairs can be scheduled and performed much quicker. Repairs go much faster and easier if your motor is clean before you begin work. There are special cleaners for washing the motor and related parts. Just spray or brush on the cleaning solution, let it stand, then rinse it away with a garden hose. Clean all oily or greasy parts with Fresh solvent as you remove them.
WARNING Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent. It presents an extreme fire hazard. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area when using cleaning solvents. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for gasoline and oil fires nearby in case of emergency.

Once you have decided to do the job yourself, read this chapter thoroughly until

procedures are somewhat generaked to accommodate all models. Where individual differences occur,they are specilically pointed out. The power heads shown in the accompanying pictures are current designs. While it is possible that the components shown in the pictuns may not be identical with those being serviced, the step-by-step procedures may be used with all models covered in this manual. Tables 1 3 are at the end of the chapter.

ENGINE 6EBZU NUMBER

Chqdm and Force ouZboards arc i t w d a by m e serial numb*: and model numberbtr Theet numbers are stamped on a plate

~tothepartsidestrrnbracktt~ 1)ortotha~ddeofthesuppoRpkite (Figwe 2). Tbh inforination identifies the outbaard and indicates if &ere an uniaue partsorifb~~havebeenmade during the m d l nm,The serial and modd oe n u m b s should be nssd d e n orduing auy ~%pwent parts your outboard. From 1970C&yilm/U.S. Marine alsa stamps a block identitbtion n u r n h oa productiion and service replacement blocks. This is useful in identifyingthe if stolen or if the identificath cn o* the serial and model numbers ha# been removed. The number usually stsrbs with a letter followad by 6-7 digits aboot I& in. high. An example would be B4Z2422.9 .... . ! number is located ae follows:
I

FASTENERS AND TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Always replace a worn or damaged fastener with one of the same size, type and torque requirement. Power head tightening torques are given in Table 1. Where a specification is not provided for a piven bolt, use the standard bolt and nut torque according to fastener size. To prevent cylinder head warpage, the head bolts should be tightened to 50 in.-lb. (3.5-7.5 hp) or 75 in.-lb. (9.2-140 hp), then in steps of 25 in.-lb. (3.5-7.5) or 50 in.-lb. (9.2-140 hp) until the specified torque is reached. Other power bead fasteners should be tightened in 2 steps. Tighten to 50 percent of t the torque value in the b step, then to 100 percent in the second step. Retighten the cylinder head bolts after the engine has been run for 15 minutes and allowed to cool. It is a good idea to retorque them again after 10 hours of operation. To retighten the power head mounting fasteners properly, back them out one turn and then tighten to specifications. When spark plugs are reinstalled after an overhaul, tighten to the specified torque., W r the engine to n o d operating am temperature, let it cool down and retorque the plugs.

4. I s r a large scxewdriver between net flywheel and top of power head at the n a ~ the engine. See F i i 3 (3.5 hp shown). ..T
h

i
.-

FLYWHEEL

RemoveYInstallation (1%6-1969 3.5 hp; 1970-1977 3.6 hp; 1976-1978 4 hp; 1974-1976 4.9-5 hp) 1. Remove the he1 tank. See Chapter Six. 2. Remove the bolt holding the starter rewind cup and flywheel to the crankshaft. 3. Remove rewind cup and thread knock-off bolt (part No. T 29 19) into crankshaft as far as possible, then back it off 2 full turns.

CAUTION Striking the knock-off nut with excessive force in Step 5 can cause crankrhaf?a d o r bearing damage.

5. Ry upwards on the flywheel while t a m the knock-off nut with a 16 ounce hmmbx. 6. When flywheel c m s loose, remow oe pry tool. U s r w he hock-off nut ppdl nce remove the flywheel h n the crankshaR 7. Inspect flywheel arefully as described ih this chapter.

3. R f r to Chapbr Smn and m o v e the ee following component4 the starter support, if r e q M See A, W ' S for coil location and Figure 6 fBP 6 Othg components (typid):
8

a. Ignition coils.

b. R&er. c. Terminal block. d. Circuit breaker. e. CD module.

4. Remove the 2 s r w holding the ces 5. motor to the starter support. See B , Place starter inside support plate. 5. Remove 2 screws holding the ra of the tf starter support to the powerhead, then remove 2 screws holding the starter to the support bracket. Remove the starter support.
NOTE
step 6 applies only to Autolectrie models.

flywheel key, flywheel, s t a d cup

It. See Figwe 4. Tighten

6. Remove the starter-generator cover, starter-generator and support assembly. StX Chapter Seven. 7. Remove the flywheel nut with an appropriate size socket 8. T r a knock-off nut (part No. T 2909) hed on crankshaft as far as possible, then back it offa rnt-. CAUTION
BesurethafprytOddOdJllDtMllt(lC1 stator or other c o t n g o ~ ~ a 9 in S p that might be damaged by pryrryrng in Step 10.

9. Slide flywheel nmovdil wedge (part No. T 2989) or a large smwdriver between the

& 3-5 ab nt apply to Autohric m o

flywheel and p a w s h d Wedge or screwdriver position should align with flywheel keywPy and contact only the lint 118 in. of the tlywheel.

Do not strike knock-OR n u with ccmssiveforce in Step 10 or craniahi@ W o r beming damagP may result.

amoh'

10. Pry upwards on the flywheel while

tapping the knock-off nut with a 16 ounm hammer. See Figure 7.

11. When flywheel comes loose, remove the pry tool. Unscrew the knock-off nut and remove the flywheel h m the crankshaft. 12. Inspect flywheel carefully as d&bed in this chapter. 13. Inspect crankshaft and tlywheel tap$, They m s be perfectly dry and h e of oiL ut Wp tapend d a m with solvent and blow ie dry with c o m m air. M. InstaU flywheel key wt outer edge of ih key parallel to the crankshaft centerline. See Firssn 8. 15. I s a l the flywheel on the crankshaft. ntl 16. Isal flywheel nut and tighten to ntl Spcciscations (Table 1). 17. Reverse Step 1, Step 2 and Step 6 (Autoloaie) or Steps 1-5 (all others) to complete instaUation.

mt

RemoVPI~tion (AU Other 35-55 hp Models t bcept 1979-on 45-55 hp) 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. D i m ~ e c the negative battery cable or t the spark plug leads to prevent accidental starting of the engine. 3. AutoMc-Remove the starter-gencnrrtol cover, starter-generator and support assembly. See Chapter 7. EC, Remove the flywheel nut (Figure 9) with Mm t e size $bcket. 5. Bmove the emergency starter collar h m nut (see as far as possible, then

CAUTION

Be sure that pry tool does not contact stator or other components in Step 7 that might be damaged by prying in Step 8.

7. Slide flywheel removal wedge @art No. T 2989) or a large screwdriver between the flywheel and power head. Wedge or screwdriver position should align with flywheel keyway and contact only the first 1/8 in. of the flywheel.

12. Install flywheel key with outer cdgt d key parallel to the CranLSbaftcentarliae. See F i 8. 13. Install the flywheel on the crankshaft. 14. Isal emergency starter collar (f so ntl i quipped). C l a legs must engage B y w W olr holes to prevent rotation. 15. Install flywheel nut and tighten to specifications (Table 1). 16. Autolectric-Install the starter-generator support, starter-generator and cover. See Chapter Seven. 17. Reconnect spark plug leads or negative battery cable. Install the engine cover.

De

IW

CAUTION strike M - o f nut with

~fweeinSYep8orrrankr~ dorbcmingBMlqlkmayre8UII.

onthe~whiletapping ut with a 16 ounce hammer. flywheel oomes loose, remove the the knock-off nut and from the crankshaft. flywheel caremy as dmaibed in and flywheel Eapas. dryandfreeofoil solvent and blow

1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable or the spark plug leads to prevent accidental starting of the engine. 3. Remove the @wh&l nut with an appropriate size socket. 4. Install puller (part No. T 8948-1) on @wheel with its 5 t side facioe up. Seu Figwe 10. ,5. Hold puller body with puller handle and tighten center screw. If flywheel d m not pop &om the crant-shaft taper, pry up on the rim of the flywheel with a large screwdriver while tapping the puller center screw with a brass hammer. 6. Remove puller from flywheel. Remove flywheel from crankshaft. 7. Inspect the flywheel as desribed in this chapter. 8. Install flywheel key with its outer edfp parallel to the crankshaft ceatdhei b FsePre 8. 9. Make sure distributor belt fc installed on Wbutor ignition u m k k lO.lnstalltheflyWhdaaddyrfias~ T i t e n nut to s p e d h h s grYI%&-

li. I.

"

2.Checktapca#lbaP&mrbaeld
signs of fkatbg or w ~ I f t t l i $ ~ ~ '% the oa engine has had 25.- mola hunra, af opmtim, t h e ~ b m w t b e l a p p c d as demibed in this &aptex.

cRnkshatt taper for

1. Apply a light coat of a water base d v c lapping compound (240 gdt or furet) t the o
t &

portion of the crankshaft.

R P l o a ~ o n ~ m d g e n t l Y

rotatoitbaokandfarthaevgaltimesnithina 1 (potition 1). 1 wl aspSe range S ~ B 3,11~thtflywheb!M.rand&~2.

w i m1 (aoaition2). w@ 1

:
.

4 acmoVe?hegwbaelandinspuathebon ~smflraoontaetwirhcranlcrhrrftm.The gfslrhsdboretapermucdhaveaminimumof 90 psecant (3.5-50 hp) or 80 parant (55-140

a

bad pencil (No. 2 or 2B grade lead) and

* rn~SlccB@312.

replace the meIf a new flywheel el . does not lap in propedy, replace the

crankshaft.
5. Clean all compound &om the flywheel bore, crankshaft taper and keyway. 6. Reinstall flywheel as described in this chapter.

POWER HEAD REM0VAWINSTWTK)H When removing any power head, it is a good idea to make a sketch or take an btant picture of the location, routing and positioning of electrical wiring, brackets and J-clamps for reassembly reference. Take notes as you remove wires, washers and engine grounds so they may be rehtdled in their correct position. Unless speci6ed otherwise, install lockwashers on the M e side of the electrical lead to assure a good ground.
1980-011 hp, 1976-011 4 3.5 4
1. Remove the engine covers. 2. Remove the fueI tank. See Chapter S x i. 3. Remove the carburetor and fuel shuts@ valve. See Chapter Six. 4. Disconnect the shorting switch. 5. Remove the screws holding the support plate. Remove the support plate. 6. Remove the flywheel as described in this chapter. 7. Remove the stator plate. See Chapter Seven. 8. Remove the screws h o w the power head to the motor leg (F@w14. Remove the power head. 9. Remove and discard the aankshaft spline
seal.

10. htallation i the reverse of removal, s plus the following a. U e a new motor l g gasket. s e b. Align m t r leg drive shaft splines with oo power head cranbW3 splines.

272 c. Coat motor leg screw threads with RTV

sealant and tighten to spedications (Table 1). d. Complete engine synchronization and linkage adjustments. See Chapter Five.
1-4-15 hp

CHAPTER EIGHT

1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Disconnect the spark plug leads to prevent accidental starting of the engine. 3. Remove the carburetor and fuel uumu. See Chapter Six. 4. Disconnect the stop switch leads. 5A. M a n d models-Remove the manual starter assembly. See Chapter Ten. 5B. Autolectric-Remove the starter-generator cover, starter-generator and support assembly. See Chapter Seven. 6. Remove the flywheel as described in this chapter. 7A. Magneto ignition-loosen the magneto shaft retainer setscrew. Position steering handle up. Pull magneto control shaft with gear from steering arm boss. Slip control rod link from control shaft as shown in Figure 15.
NOTE On early 4.4, 5, 6.5 and 7 hp W I s , this link is attached to the magneto control lever with a swivel and stop nut.

Remove stop nut to disconnect link from

magneto control lever.

7B. CD ignition-Dismmect the spark control link at the tower shaft. Remove tower shaft assembly (Figure 1 ) 6. 8. Remove the stator plate (magneto ignition) or the alterdator and trigger stators (CD ignition). See Chapter Seven. 9. Remove the CD module (CDignition). 10. Remove the shift interlock bearing screw and disconnect the interlock rod from the crankcase cover lever. See Figure 17.

D i s a r n n e c t i n t e r l ~ ~ k r o d ~ ~ lever. 11. Rernovethe4acrewsholdingtbs-~ cagetothepowerbead.Renumthebmd@# a s stator ring and bearing 8# Rgme 1 .Discardthegasket 8
NOTE
At

this point, there should be no linkage, ground lerutr or other electrical wiring connecting thepower head to the sypport plate. kklltxk to make snre that&ngwillluunperpmcnRrrd

12. Remove the motor leg s c n w ~ hold& tbe power head to the support plate. See Fignre 19 (typical). Remove the power head h m the support plate and place on a c h i workbench. 13. Remove and discard the cyliada mounting gasket See Figare 1 ( y i a ) 9 tpcl. 14. Remove and discard the cranbb& spline seal @@ire 20). 15. Clean cylinder mounting and support plate gasket surfam of all gasket W t u. 16. InstaUation is the reverse of remod, plus the following: a. Use new cylinder momtiag and baariPg cage-

274

CHAPTER EIGHT

b. Coat drive shaft splines with a liberal amount of anti-seize lubricant. c. Install a new bearing cage seal with lip facing the power head. d. Apply Rykon No. 2EP to &tor ring between r n and bearing cage.. ig e. Coat bearing cage and motor leg s a w threads with RTV sealant. f. Tighten all fasteners to speci6catiom (Table 1). g Complete engine equchronization and . linkage adjustments. See Chaptg I % .

1. Wcomect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Disconnect the spark plugs. 4A. Manual model-Remove the mnual starter assembly. See Chapter Ten. 4B. Autolcctric-Remove the etartergeaaator ,

13. Remove the motor leg covers.

NOTE
At this point, there should be no linkage, ground leads or other eleetricd wiring wnnedngthe power head to the support plate. Recheck lo make sure that nothing Will hamper power head removal.

amembly. See Chapter Seven. 5. Remove the &wheel as described in this chapter. 6. Remove the carburetor. See Chapter S x i.

and suppolt

14. Remove the 6 screws holding the motor leg to the power head. 15. Lift the power head from the motor leg and remove ftom the support plate. Place the NOTE power head on a clean workbench. steps 7-9 do not W P to AuUmric ~ 16. Clean all gasket d u e f o the cylinder rm md?h. mounting and support plate surbces. 1 . InstaUation is the reverse of removal, 7 7 Disconnect magneto control connector at . plus the following: the mtrol lever. a. U e new cylinder mounting and bearing s 8. Remove the stator plate. See Chapter cage w e t s . b. Coat drive shaft splines wt a liberal ih 9. Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing amount of a n t i - h lubricant. cage to the power head. Remove bearing cage c. Rotate flywheel or propeller as required ~statorrhg.Removeanddiscardthe to align cranlcohaft and drive shaft -0rO.rhg. splines. 1. Remove and &-ad the cotter pins at 0 d. I s a l a new bearing cage seal with lip ntl eadidofthegearshiftrod. facing the power head. 11. Ramove pivot saew holding interlock e. Insert seal protector (part No. T 2908) in -togear shift arm. Remove shift rod. bearing cage to protect seal when Ramove~4sg.ewsh0~thebearing reinstalling bearing cage to power head.

Apply Rykon No. 2EP between stator

riasdbsarindcalpa

CHAPTER EIGHT
12. Remove the 6 rear motor leg cover screws. Remove the cover. 13. Remove the 2 nuts holding the upper

side shock mounts between the kingpin and spacer plates. 14. Remove the side and front mounts. 15. Engage the reverse look mechanism, then pull the motor leg back far enough to remove the front motor leg cover. 16. Remove the 6 screws holding the motor leg to the power head. 17. Remove the power head and place it on a clean workbench. 18. C e n all gasket residue fiom the power la head and spacer plate surfaces. 19. Installation is the revem of removal, plus the following: a. Use new power head and bearing cage gaskets. b. Coat drive shaft sW with a liberal p amount of antilubricant. c. Rotate &wheel or propeller as required t align oranlrshaft and drive shaft o

splines. d. Install a new bearing cage seal with lip facing the power head. U e seal installer s part No. T 8971 and drive seal in until its top is 0.70 f0.005 in. from bottom of bearing cage cbnmfer. See Figure 24. e. Lubricate seal lip with and install on seal protector (part No. T 8967). Garter spring must face small end of protector. Xnstall seal as shown in F i e
25. f. Coat bearing cage screw threads with EC-750 sealant. g. Tighten all fasteners to specifications ("Cable1). h. Complete engine synchronization and linkage adjustnfents. See Chapter Five.

I. Remove the engine cover.

2. Electric sat tr*WHY? battery cable. q,.t (,fa 3. Disconnect spark plug leads Rrmovc the spark plugs. 4. M n a start-Remove the manual atarh aul assembly. See Chapter Ten. 5. Remove the flywheel as described in this chapter. 6. Electric start-Disconnect electrical leads at the following components and remove the components. See Chapter Seven:

a. Interlock switch. b. Rectifier (A, F i 26). c. Ignition cis (B, Figme 26). ol d. Terminal block (C, Figore 26). e. Circuit breaker. f. s a t r tre. g Choke solenoid h. S a t r solenoid (relay). tre i. Battery ground lead (at power head). j. Wiring harness.
7A. Manual

start-Disconnect ~~lltrolrod~reandunsnaprodfram interlock link (]FPgllre 2 ) 7. 7B. Electric start-Remove screw hoktiap outerendoflinktotopoftowershaft(& F m 28) and unscrew spark control liak from W e r plate. Disconnect throttle cam link (B,Figme 28) and remove tower shPlt brackets (C, Figme 28). Remove the tower
shaft.

8. Remove the breaker plate (manuel) or alternator stator and stator plate ( M . ) 9. Manual start-Remove rl pin ol gearshiftarmtogearshiftrod.See~29. Remove rod and both arms. 10. Remove stop nut and washer hid@#

carburetor,

readvalve

pump. See a a j w Six.

12. Disconnect redmlation line at top and bottom of power head.

NOTE
At this point, there should be no hoses, wires or linkage conncdirsg the power head to the motor leg. Recheck this to make sure nothing will hamper power head removal.

$a

13. Remove the 6 screws holding the motor leg covers. 14. Remove the 7 motor leg-to-power head screws. Remove the motor leg exhaust cover, then remove the remaining motor leg-to-power head screw located under the cover. 15. Remove the air M e and 2 screws holding the upper shock mount cover to the upper shock mount. 16. Remove power head from motor leg and place it on a clean workbench. 17. Remove the 4 screws holding the crankshaft bearing cage to the power head. Remove the bearingcage and stator ring from the power head. Remove and discard the gasket. 18. Clean all gasket midue from the power head and spacer plate surfaces. 19. Installation is the reverse of removal, plus the following: t a U e new power head and bearing cage s gaskets. b. Coat drive shaft splines with a liberal amount of anti-seize lubricant. c. Rotate flywheel or propeller as requid to align crankshaft and drive shaft splines. & I s a l a new bearing cage seal with ntl hataller part No. T 35 12. See Figure 31. ' e. tubdate seal lib with grease and install on seal protector (part No. T 3512). ' ChrW sgring must face the power head. W&ilfaealasshawninFigure32. itm mi an -CTS to specificati~ll~ C* 1). r

PWER HEAD
b. Remove the screws holding the support plate cover. Remove the cover. c. Loosen the screw holding the support plate cover rear to the top support plate retainer. d. Remove 2 s r w holding he support ces plate cover rear to the port and starboard support plate. Remove the cover. e. Remove the idle relief cover grommet from the support plate cover mar. f. Remove the 4 screws haEding the support plate retainers to thu port and starboard support plate. See Fi@m33. g. Remove the support plarte portto-starboard screw shown in F t g m 3 . 4 Remove the support plate. 4. Remove the flywheel as d e a t x i i in this chapter. 5. Remove the following ignition cornponents. See Chapter Seven: a. CD module. b. Alternator stator module. c. Capacitor module. d. Regulator-rectifier module. e. Timing ring. f. Trigger module. 6. Remove the 2 screws holding the bearing .cage to the power head. Remove the bearing cage and gasket. Discard the gasket. 7. Remove the carburetor a a dm with carburetors. Remove the fuel pump. See Chapter Sx i. 8. Remove the starter motor, drcuit breaker and starter relay. See Chapter h . 9. Remove the tower shaft adapter mounting screws. Remove the tower shaft. See Figure 35. 10. Disconnect the gear shift link couplers. Remove the link. See Figure 36. 1 1. Remove the gear shift arm.Remove the interlock switch bracket. 12. Remove the remote control bracket. 13. Dixo~theuppergearshiftrodatthe gear sbift pivot.

& Complete engine synchronization and

linkage adjustments. See Chapter Five.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the engine c&er. Remove the port and starboard support as follows: a. Remove the fasteners and support plate mounts holding the plate to the front ' and rear stabilkem.

280
14. Remove the 4 screws holding the front stabilizer to the crankcase. Remove the stabilizer.

CHAFlXR EIGHT

NOTE
At this point, there should be no hoses,

wires or linkages connecting the power head to the motor leg. Recheck this to make sure nothing will hamper power head removal.

15. Remove the 8 stop nuts holding the power head to the motor leg. Remove the stop nut holding the power head to the spacer plate. 16. Remove power head from the spacer plate and place it on a clean workbench. 17. clean-all gasket residue from the power head and spacer plate surfaces. 18. Installation is the reverse of removal, plus the following: a. Use new power head and bearing cage gaskets. b. Coat drive shaft splines with a liberal amount of anti-seize lubricant. c. Rotate flywheel or propeller as required to align crankshaft and drive shaft splines. d. Install a new bearing cage seal with installer part No. T 8985. Seal lip must face flywheel. I e. Apply a small bead of RTV sealing around the bearing cage face. Lubricate seal lip with Rykon No. 2EP. f. Tighten all fasteners to speci6cations (Table 1). g Complete engine synchronization and . linkage adjustments. See Chapter Five.

1. Jhmmect the n&tive battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Jhmmect the spark plug leads. Remove

Xbnkovc the flywheel as described in this

5. Remove the stator and terminal b i ~ ~ k without disco~ecting electrical leads. See the Chapter Seven. 6. Remove the starter, starter relay and voltage regulator ( F i i e 37). See Chapter Seven. 7. Diswnnect the ground cable at the power head. 8. Disconnect the green choke solenoid lead. 9. Remove interlock switch with leads attached (Chapter Seven) and pull it under the carburetors to the port side. 10. Disconnect the orange lead at the cylinder head thermoswitch. 11A. Motorola ignition-Remove the CD unit/wil assembly and distributor without disco~ecting electrical leads (Figure 38). the See Chapter Seven. 1 1B. Prestolite ignition- Remove the CD module and ooil assembly ( F i i e 39). See Chapter Seven. 12. CareWy lift the CD unit/coil and distributor (Motorola) or CD module and coil assembly (Pmtolite) over the top of the power head as an assembly. Remove the electrical components apd wiring hamem from the engine as an assembly. 13. Remove the carburetor air intake (Fisra
,401.

14. Remove the carburetors, fuel pump(# and reed valve assembly ( F i i 41). Sa Chapter S x i. 15. Remove the 2 brackets holding the tomr shaft to the power head. Remove the towe# shaft.
NOTE
At this point, there should be no haru, wires or linkages connecting the @tier head to the motor leg. RM to' make sure nothing win hmnper powr head removal.

16. Remove the 3 sgcws on d holding the front and reat m s t isg. together. Remove the 3

CHAPTER EIGHT
holding the rear motor leg cover to the support plate. Remove the rear motor leg cover. See Figure 42. 17. Remove the 7 screws holding the support plate to the front motor leg cover. Remove the support plate. See Figure 43. 18. Remove the 6 screws holding the spacer plate to the motor leg. Remove the 6 nuts holding the power head to the motor leg.
WARNING
IJa hoist is not availablefor use in Srep 19, have an assistant help with power head removal to avoid possible serious personal injury.

19. Attach a lifting hook (part No. T 8933) to the crankshaft. Connect a hoist to the hook and remove the power head from the motor leg. Place the power head on a clean workbench, disconnect the hoist and remove the lifting hook. 20. Clean all gasket or RTV sealant residue from the power head and motor leg sealing surfaces. 21. Installation is the reverse of removal, plus the following: a. Apply RTV sealant to motor leg sealing surface. b. Coat drive shaft splines with a liberal amount of anti-seize lubricant.

Rotate flywheel or propeller as n q d , to align crankshaft and drive shaft

POWER HEAD DISASSEMBLY

d Tighten all hteners to speci6cations

linkage adjustments. See Chapter Five.

1980-on 3 5 hp; 1976-011 hp 4 Refer to F i 44 for this procedure. 1. Remove the 4 cylinder head screws. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket.

POWER HEAD

1 . Rdler bnrhg8 4 1% sul 17. C n n k M

4 nf8ck.t . 6. Wa.h.r
6. Saw 7. S U e w a piam ~ W I o. RMining dng

2 . Shulllnrr 4

!=*-d a and mn&u la Q h

--w
27. uhlu*o..~*

lo. ~ h m n pln l .Pmon l 1 2 -rod

laWh..do.*a( 2 . C%hduh..d 9

284
2. With crankcase and cylinder block on a solid surface, drive out the 2 locating pins with a pin punch. See Figure 45. 3. Remove the 6 screws holding the crankcase cover to the cylinder. 4. Carefully separate crankcase cover from cylinder by prying at the pry points with a putty knife or similar instrument. 5. Remove the connecting rod cap screws with a ratchet and suitable hex head driver. See Figure 46. 6. Remove the connecting rod cap. Remove the needle bearings and bearing cages h m the rod cap and crank&&. Place bearin@ and cages in a clean container. 7. Remove the mink&& assembly from the cylinder block. Remove the upper crankshaft bearing and lower crankshaft seal. 8. Reinstall connecting rod cap on connecting rod. Push the piston toward the cylinder head end of the crankcase until the piston ring^ can be seen. 9. Remove and discard the piston rings with ring expander tool part No. T 8926 or equivalent. See Figure 47. 10. Remove the piston and connecting rod through the carburetor end of the crankcase. 11. If the piston is to be removed from the connecting rod, remove the piston pin retaining r n s with snap ring pliers. ig 12. Place piston in pillow block (part No. T 2990) and remove the piston pin with tool part No. T 89 19. See Figure 48.

CHAPTER EIGHT

Refer to Figure 49,or Figure 50 for this

I

procedure.

1. Remove the screws holding the exhaust t b to the power head, if so equipped. u 2 Remove the cylinder head bolts and .
rwshers. Remove the cylinder head and

6. Remove the crankcase cover-to-cylWer block Screws.

NOTE
If the top harof the main bearing liner

comes offwhen the cover is removed in Step 7, retrieve any roller bearingsfrom the &intier with a swab covered with grease. Do Do use a magnet.

7. Carefully pry the cover and block apart using a suitable pry tool at the pry points provided. Remove the cover from the block. 8. Remove the main bearing liner and roller bearings. Place in a clean container. 9. Lift the crankshaft slightly at the lower main journal. Slide seal and lower main bearing off the crankshaft. 10. Mark the connecting rod and cap. Remove each connecting rod cap and needle bearings. Place in a clean container. 11. Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block. 12. Remove the remaining connecting rod and main bearing roller bearings and place in separate containers. 13. Reinstall the rod cap to its respective connecting rod. Remove each piston and connecting rod assembly from its cylinder. Mark the cylinder number on the top of the piston with a felt-tipped pen. ih 14. Remove and discard the piston rings w t ring expander tool part No. T 8926 or equivalent. See Figure 47. 15. If the piston is to be removed from tha connecting rod, remove the piston

T 1749 or equivalent.

286

CXLWlXR EIGHT

I. ~ y ~ ~ nhomd lnrrr dor 2. P I ~ Iwmmkr ~ 3. S p I k plug 4. Cyllndu heed 5. h d gmsk.1 6. Cyl1nd.r and u8nkc.w mvar mummbly 7. Dmln a v u gmmk.1 8. Dnin mmmn 9. W n cowr 10. 8 c m 11. ~ocm.(lng pin 12. P rinO m I 13. Pletm p h nt.IMI 14. wnon pin

IS. 16. 17. 18. 1s.

platon ConnmcUng rod Bufhg Ug. Rollu bearings center main mlkr bearings 1 . CNI1.r nuln besting llm 0 21. C n n k m u . r .l 11. Connecting rod owow 2 . Lam cnnkmhmtt -I 5 24. Lam nuln m d n g 26. -*aft and upper msln burlng - y M . 20. Exluumt phtm gosk.1 27. Exh8Wt 28. u k . v w 1 ua 1

2s. &m 30. &nw 31. S c m 32. &nw 33. 8cmw 34. *tor ring 35. Bmsrlng ~ g g m m m k t m 36. Bmmring a g o 37. Uppmr cnnkmhsft u m l M. 8cmw 59. Cnnkmhmtt m l m pm l 40. ~ y ~ ~ nmwntlng 9 m . k ~ d.r 41. Mmgnmto key

288

CHAPTER EIGHT

POWER HEAD (ALL 20.25 AND 30 HPP) 1070.ON 3S HP)

C M k . h m b..ring W n g cage *aka Magnet0 ahtor ring Phmw riv.1 7. CyNnd.r nnd nu*cma cover ....mb* 8. Saw B Sockel h u d wmw (tong) . 10. Sockel ha.d m w (shori) 11. W n g pin 12. M x nut

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 8.

8wm

Cnnk.hmupp.rnuln&

12 14. 15. 18. 17. 18.

aur ehfn b
g.r #*

r sw Omin hoea elbow

m n o f m pn( cover Check vdva CyHnder dnln w e e n re. ~ m m t e par( cover gaak.1 r 20. oyllndn hoad gulr.1 21. Cy~ndar bud 2 . pW 1 28. Cylinder h u d w m 24. 8puL plug

25. C.p m w 28. menmostat cover 27. Qaskal 28. m u 1 pon plaa gankei 29. EXh.u.1 pori pieta so. ~ u u port covw a 31. Scmw 92. &m J9. Spaghd maai 3 . Plain wanher 4 95. Cap wmw

CRANKSHAPT AND PlSTONS (ALL 2 , AND 30 Hri 0 m 1@764N 35 HP)

1. Piaton pin ntlllm 2.pi.Dnphlwm-f

a. on pin bearing
4. 5. 0. 7.

PI8Lon pln coM.otlng md P m i

Pfrmn ring. 8. C.nt.1 nuin bouing unor 9. C n main .M 10. CnnLcna rul 11. Lowarcrmk.h.nmi.ndooln 12. Cmnkahaft mbr m I la. Cmnk.h.(l a p t b m i 14. C m n k O h a S l o m n u h ~ 15. ConnacUng rod acmw
1 llrmnpcagaandmlk L

IT. Cnnkahan 18. nvwh..l key

burlno --mw

Refer to

51 an&Figure 52 for this

2. Remove the transfer port cover s r w . ces Remove the cover and gasket. Discard the gasket. 3. Remove the cylinder head thermostat ces cover s r w . Remove the cover and gasket. Discard the gasket. 4. Remove the cylinder head b l s Remove ot. the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the

CHAPTEB EIGHT 1. Remove the crankcase cover screws. Note 5 that 2 of the screws are inside the reed plate opening.See F i i 53. 6. With crankcase and cylinder block on a solid surface, drive out the 2 locating pins with a suitable pin punch. 7. Carefully pry the cover and block apart using a suitable pry tool at the pry points provided. See Figure 54. Remove the cover from the block. 8. Remove the main bearing race half and roller bearings. Place in a clean container. 9. Mark the connecting rods and caps. Remove each connecting rod cap, roller bearings and bearing cage. Place beariqp and cage from each rod in separate containers. 10. Remove the cranlrshaft from the cylinder block. 1I. Remove the remaining connecting rod and main bearing roller bearings and place in separate containers. 12. Reinstall each rod cap to its respective connecting rod. Remove each piston and connecting rod assembly from its cylinder. M r the cylinder number on the top of the ak piston with a felt-tipped pcn.

'Remove the crankshaft upper main mainbearingcollarsealand ling. See FIgare 55.

rod, remove the piston pin remove the piston pin with a ver. See Figure 56.

to Figure 57 and Figure 58 for t i hs

clamp away from the fitting enough ect the tube. P l the tube off the ul port cover and thennostat cover

3. Remove the cylinder head bolts. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard t 1 4e gasket. 4. Remove the exhaust port cover bolts and lockwashers. Remove the cover and @et. Discard the gasket. 5. Electric start-remove the 2 screws holding the coil bracket. Remove the bracket. 6. Remove the fuel pump cover and gasket. Discard the gasket. 7. Remove the 2 transfer port covers and gaskets. Discard the gaskets. 8. Remove the cylinder drain cover screws. Remove the cylinder drain cover, gasket, reed plate and gasket assembly. See Figure 61. Discard the gasket. 9. Remove the 5 screws holding the shock mount cover (Figure 62). Remove the cover. 10. Remove the crankcase cover sctews installed along the crankcase parting line. 11. With crankcase and cylinder block on a solid surface, drive out the 2 locating pins with a suitable pin punch. 12. Remove the crankcase cover bolts. Note that one bolt is inside the reed plate openine.
See Figure 63. 13. Caremy pry the cover and block apart

using a suitable pry tool at the pry points .provided. Remove the cover from the block. 14. Remove the spaghetti seal from each side of the crankcase. See Figure 64. 15. Mark the connecting rods and cap& Remove each connecting rod cap, TO^ bearingsandbearing cage. Placebcahgsand cage from each rod in separate containers. 16. Remove the cranlrshaftfrom the c y b >k block. 17. Remove the remaining roller bearings and place containers. 18. Reinstall each rod connecting rod. Remwe connecting rod assembly Mark the cylinder number on piston with a felt-p& 1 8-

2'92

CI-LWIER EIGHT

63

POWER HEAD (lS66-197S He ALL 4S AND 50 H@ 1967.1976 W HP)

t
I.Socr.1 hud aap .crrr (long) ZgocLUhudap#r*~Ihon) 5. Slot hud w m 4. 8cm 6. W 6. Stopnut 7. Pan h o d wmw A 8cnw Dnin w w r la ~ l - . n m1 n 11. 6 ~ 8 ~ 1ZPllklllh.r

I#. Cyllndu Md m n k u w

20.

w.lch Plug

-n -W

36. T h e m m t covu p.ak.1 37. R H m t WYH a gcnw .

H. Tmnhr port covw 0.mk.1

2% Tmrulw par( corw
29. Fuel Hne dbow 24. ~lbo\r 26. How B.cyundw hud p..lrm 27. q w h. n .d 28. W.lch plug 2 . som (silm) 8 90. 8puk plug 31- scmw (1-1 82 PWn wnher a.P Mug w 54. l l m m o ~ m w a . TbmMmt s

So. l l l m w m t m
40. Clunp 41. lllmwmtwatw i u b 42. Themmotmt M n g 45. Bcm U. ~ . . wm cup d 46. E I ~ ~ I I .pt c ~ w ~ 46. port phm p..lr*t 47. Exh.wt poll 48. 49. E l b a 60. Elbow with motoring cup 61. Roll pln 6% Spring lockwasher

L.

@.

in mhmd.~p.
14. Dnhmd

16. R.ln md p h W HWhmdpWo.orm 17. h . k n d p 1 4 - m

5 . scm s 64.4.

Ma1

CRANKSHAFT AND PISTONS (196(1.1975 35 HP, ALL 45 AND SO HPj 1907-19- 55 HPj

7.

c0~;odmmIcrp

8.

9. pi.lon pln 10. 8PH.r 11. PIpln nt.Inu 12 P* i 13. Piston ring 14. Snap ring 15.c.n(.rrmhr~mm 10. L0rnrnuinb.m~ 17. C o ~ rod .Onrr M

I'

.@%I
19. Slide the seal and lower main bearing

CHAPTER EIGHT

hm,crd&&.
20. Canfully pry the snap r n from the ig center main bearing race. Expand ring just enough to remove it. Remove the bearing race halves and the rollex bearings. Place in a clean container. 21. If crankshaft upper main bearing (Figure 65) requires replacement, remove with an arbor press and suitable mandrel. 22. Remove and discard the piston ringswith ring expander tool part No. T 8926 or equivalent. See F E i 66. 23. If the piston is to be removed h m the connecting rod, remove the piston pin retaining rings with snap ring pliers. 24. Place piston in pillow block (part No. T 2990) and remove the piston pin with a suitable driver. See Figure 56. 197755 h g All 60 and 65 hp p

Refer to Figure 67 and Figure 68 for this procedure. 1. Remove the bypass valve cover at the upper left of the cylinder head. Remove the cover and gasket. Discard the gasket.

296

CHAPTER EIGHT

2. Remove the thermostat cover, gaslrst, thermostat and grommet. See Figme 6 . 9 D i d the gasket. 3. Remove the thermoswitch from the cylinder head cover. 4A. 1977-1980-Remove the cylinder head and cover assembly from the power h d (Figwe 70). Remove the 3 screws holding the cover to the cylinder head. Separate the cova and litad. Discard the cover and haul

Bask-.

4B. 1981-on-Remove the 2 screws holding the cover to the cylinder head (Figure 71).
Remove the cover and discad the gasket. Remove the cylinder head bolts. Remove the cylinderheadandgasket.Discatdthe@et. 5. Remove the 2 screws holding each rear stabilizer to the c y h k head. Remove the

stabilizer (Figure 7 ) 2. 6. Remove the exhaust port cover saews. Remove the cover and gasket. Discard the
gasket. 7. I the forward stabilizer was not m o d f during power head removal, m o v e the 4 bolts shown in F I 73. Remove the

stabilizer.
8. Remove the lower bearing cage. 9. Remove the gearshift lever and pivot

@4me

74).

~ ~ t e G a b l e ~ y . tBs a m k s e anra belts and

oneofthG~i&~t8e
-=%-

a,
~
i
r----

See E@re 74.

~

d
h

thec33nma&d&-. eaeblwfln&&&~rsllez ~ c ~ g b p h a

22. &~discardthepistondn~gwith rbg e x tool part No. T 8926 or l d Q * WlQm 66.

Psyt.fUarmeachdinslkearste;~o~~~

! B # o v e t h b . ~ f r O mtheoytinaer &
17. Remove the mmahbg anmctbg rod

N m n d DonQtatwprflllllM~~4P the piszm Tke pinon, C n a w md, O nH

beafings and @tmm ere
0

~~Cur a
~

~nmh~roller~padplacein
(laCwtata008*

H . ~ ~ m c l o l t p t o i t s ~ w A lPrgt naunba of bolts aad sums o ; f

mdi i%smwft 3 gB GEEcyw?numb onetbeO D ditbt . tap ~witha~-tippdp a

'

m d . R a o ; r e v e ~ ~ d~ f ~ i u e W t o a c c u n t h e

vcuiogsarvgsend~~Itisagood idea to use a tin or Bimilnr aomparbnmted ~ontahwro hold tbe Mm t l i

reraoved fmm a r OT m conswwQttThiswillmake~blyBasier
fpstenars

and &stex.
SEAL

11. Remove the timing pointer fmm

tbs '

crsnlraun cover.
the CD module studs and shock the cylinder drain cover, reed Discard the gasketn transfer port covers and
ust port cover, plate and Discard the gasketr.

the thennoswitch f o the rm head. Remove the thermostat cover,

saslrel,-m-

12. Remove the 4 aankshatt b e e a g a mews.Prythebearingcagefromthep0~ head. 13. Remove the beariag sa from the el beariagcage.RemovethebearingaI&seal from the power head groove. 14. Remove the main bedug bolts Pnd crankcese cover sgewa htalled along the cranksplit l n . ie 15. With cranLcase and cylinder block on a solid surface, drive out the 2 locating pins with a suitable pin punch.
NOTE Pry points are located on the same wrnm as the locating pins on 3-cyllndsr bIock8. On 4-cylinder blocks, they are on the sidc o the block f oppositc the locating pins.

the bolts holding the cylinder cylinder head and head gasket to head. Remove the assembly and
the4screwsholdiugthehead head.Separatethecoverfrom

the4sgewaholdingtheexhaust seal to the power head spacer plate. the 4 nuts and washers holding

16. Canfully pry t e cover and block apart h u * a suitable pry tool. The pry points are laastad on opposite ends of the block. Remove the cover h m the block 17. Mark the conmcting rods and cops Remove each conmcting rod cap, NJlla beE&lgsandbedugcage.Plscebeerislgmd cagefromeachrodinscparateam~ 1 18. Removethecrankshaftfromthecyiindst block. 19. Remove the remaining rod
andmainbeariagr~IlerbeE&lgsPndglaOci~i. q w a t e containem 20.~eachrodcaptOit9 cmmechgrod. 21. Insert a screwdriver bcWcm mainbcaringandthelowa Pry aeal f o bearing cage. rm 22. Slide lower main bmdiq cmbhafL 23. Canfully pry the

~~

--wu--uw

p.uJw#b 'U -PYJw#b19

wu--u'09 m-4-lO m P*ImH-st ry.u lll*d '4,

--m T

wu--uYs
9 39
'19

.. .3

rmWI11-lL m-.P13m'g
y u s n p W ~

r--wdod1-w

- r . a l m y l r w
pH . ( 1E n ( 'LC q

-u* .
pU

snldy.qw

mmlw

mw*r
Jwwb 'I*
m..ww
'LO
+ O

Hyaryqda pnU Z,

Pm-'0)

m d3 m se

x w

suaw .aE

302

CHAPTER EIGHT

enough to remove it. Remove the bearing race halves and the caged roller bearings. Place in a separate clean containers. 24. Remove the crankcase seal from the crankshaft grooves next to the main bearing journals. Place each seal in the container with its main bearing. 25. Remove the spaghetti seal from each side of the crankcase. 26. Remove each piston and connecting rod assembly from its cylinder. Mark the cylinder number on the top of the piston with a felt-tipped pen. 27. Remove and discard the piston ring3 with r n expander tool part No. T 8926 or ig equivalent. See Figure 66. 28. If the piston is to be removed from the co~ecting rod, use special tool part No. T 2990 and refer to Figure 81 for the following
steps:

a. Insert the s i bar end marked "295" hm between the large diameter of the spacer and roller bearinns. b. Position piston gpillow block and align ist ton in with hole in the block. c. ~osition stepped end of the drive pin the in the piston pin inner diameter. d. Press the piston pin out. e. Separate the connecting rod, piston pin spacers and roller bearingd from the piston.

POWER HEAD CLEANING/INSPECI'ION Cylinder Block and Chmkcase Chrysler and Force outboard cylinder blocks and crankcase coven are matched and lim-bod amembli2. For this reason, you should not attempt to assemble an engine with parts aalwged from other blocks. If inspection indicates that either the block or nplacement, replace both as cover an assembly.

~~

Carefully remove all gasket and sealant residue from the cylinder block and crankcase cover mating surfaces with lacquer thinner. Clean the aluminum surfaces carefully to avoid nicking them. A dull putty knife can be used, but a piece of Lucite with one edge ground to a 45 degree angle is more efficient and will also reduce the possibility of damage to the surfaces. When sealing the crankcase cover and cylinder block, both mating surfaces must be free of all sealant residue, dirt and oil or leaks will develop.

emery cloth and recheck sudwa the pane of glass. If warpage exists, the high s o W p( s while low areas will remaiu un&m@@'@ appearance. It may be neceswy to procedure 2-3 times until the entire surface has been polished to a dull lust&. Dr, not remove more than a total of 0.010 i. n h m the cylinder block and head. Finish tha r e s d d n g with No. 180 emery cloth. 1. Clean the c y h k r block and cranlrcase cover thoroughly with solvent and a brush. 2. Carefully remove all gasket and e a h t d u e from the cylinder block and crankcase cover mating surfaces. 3. Check the cylinder heads and exhaust ports for excessive carbon deposits or varnish. Remove with a scraper or other blW lnshment. 4. Check the block, cylinder head and cover forcracks,fractuns,strippedboltor4mrk plug holes or other defim. 5. Check the gaslcet mating s d w a t b nicks, grooves, cracks or excessive distortioa Any of t h e defects will cause compmshn leakage. RepIace as requid. 6. Check all oil and water pawages in the block and c o w for obstructions. Make sore .any plugs installed are properly tighaaat 7. Inspect the cylinder drain plate nads hr wear or damage. Check the drain scr#atl, to make sure they are open. R p a e reds a elc m n s as required.
NOTE Witholderengines,itisa@goladfu haw the cylinder d ligAtly h o d I s

8. Check each c y k k x aluminum W e r Erom

511C,
9. M a u e each cylinder bore at 3 points esr with an inside micrometer or bore gauge. See Figure 84. M a u e at the following points: esr a 1/4 in. down from the top of the bore. b. 1/4 in. up from the exhaust port. c 3/16 in. down from loweredge of intake .
port.

CHAPTER EIGHT

Turn the cylinder 9 ' and repeat the 0 measurements. If the d&rence between the largest and smallest measurements e& x 0.002 in. or if the bore is out-of-round, @ace the cylinder block and cover assembly. If bon w a is less than 0.002 in., er have the cylinders honed or rebored by a dealer or qualified machine shop. 5. Lubricate the dry bearhgs with a light coat of Chryder/U.S. Marine O u t b a d Motor oil and inspect for rust,wear, d e d surfaces, heat discoloration or other defects. Replace as requid. 6. If needle bearhgs are to be reused, repeat Step 2-5, cleaning one set at a time to pwent any possible mixup. Check bearhgs for ilat spots. If one needle bearing is deMve, replace all in the set with new bearings and liners.
1. Check the piston(s) for signs of scoring, crackin& cracked or worn piston pin bosses

Bearings can be reused if they are in good condition. To be on the safe side, however, it is a good idea to discard all bearhgs and isal new ones whenever the engine is ntl disassembled. New bearhgs are kxpensive compared to the cost of another overhaul causedbytheuseofmarginalbearhgs.
NOTE
Connecting rod bearing fmes are silver-plated on 1986 Force 35-125 hp power i hearls. r gn f a e b replacemdnl is mmmy, be sure to w e the same type as removed.

1. Remove old sealer from outer edge of bail bearings w t a scraper, then clean bearing ih surhcc with Locquic. 2. PIace ball bearhgs in a w r basket and ie snbmcrge in a suitable container of firesh aolvent. The bottom of the basket should not tour& the bottom of the container. 3. Agitate basket cmtaining beariqs to bacah all grease, sludge and other

or metal damage. Replace piston and pin as an asembly if any of these defects are noted. 2. Check piston ring grooves for distortion, loose ring locating pins or excessive w a . If er the flexing action of the rings hap not kept the lower surface of the ring grooves fne of carbon,clean with a bristle brush and solvent. NOTE
Do not use an automotive ring groove cleaning tool in Step 3 as it can &mag? the piston ring I m . n g pin.

with dry f l e e itrd a r Be careful not to spin the i.

3. Clean the piston skirt, ring grooves and

dome with the messed end of a broken ring to remove any carbon deposits.

2. Check the crankshaft journals crankpins for scratches, heat discol-~f other defects. 3. Check drive shaft splines, flywheel tam threads and keyway for wear or damage. Replacecraalcshaftasrequired. 4. If lower cranlcshaft ball bearing baswt been removed, grasp inner race and try to work it back and forth. R p a e elc if excessive play is noted. 5. Lubricate ball bearing with ChryslerN.S. Marine Outboard Motor oil and rotate outer race. Replace bearing if it sounds or fesls rough or if it does not rotate smoothly.
PISTON AND CONNJXTING ROD

If the pistons were removed from the

connectiag rods, they must be correctly oriented when reassembling. Position piston
withlocating~inringgroovesfaahgup.

Step 3. If the solution does not of the carbon,carcfully use,a fiae

avuid burring o rounding of the r Clean t e piston skht w t h ih pistonatrightangletopistonpin

the crankehaft thoroughly with

ABBembleoo~ectingrodasshowninFIgure 85 with match m r s facing up. On ak 1966-1979 m d l , the match marks are a oes pair of identiktion "bumps" on one side o f the rod near the cap fracture line. On 1980 and later models, the "bumps* are nplacad by a bevel or "V" cut on one side of the d near the fracture line. Piston pin retahiq rings must be positioned with the opaninO facing up or down. 1. Coat piston pin holes, piston pin ond connecting rod small end b n w&b o Chryder/U.S. Marine Outboard Motor oiL 2. Place piston on pillow Mock (part W.3 2990) with r n groove locating p h ig upward*r ;) 3. W r piston with a heat gus am minute to expand the piston pin 4. Position corn md es Figmre85andhstaU pistonand--tiW

2. Cogtc~nnectiIlgrodsmanendborenitb needle bearing grease and isal the rOria ntl bearings. 3. I s a l connecting rod on aligumant pin. ntl Make sure piston and rod an propdy oriented~87)andinsertthe* spacer with its small diameter fecins the iasideofthepiston.Puahalignmeatpia thmughboreonothersideofthepiston. 4. Continue pushing the alignmemt or guide pin through the piston pin bore, then isal ntl shim bar w t end marked '310" betweenthe ih connecting rod and the large end of the fimt spacer installed. The slots in t e shim tool h have a step to provide for piston pin mila

clearance. 5. Place pillow block on a suitable pregs. Position piston and rod assembly on pillow
block. 6. Insertt e piston pin in the piston bon. Fft h stepped end of drive pin into piston pn Hold i. alignment tool and press piston pin in pLaa. 7. Remove drive pin and lubricate piston pin and bearings with c2uyderAJ.S. Marina Outbaard Motor ol i. 8. Repeat procedure for eaoh r e m w piston.
were removed fiom the

"bumpsnon one side of the rod

"bumps" or bevel cut on f8a up. Assemble bdtk side of dome

through one side of the

1.Chcck end gap of new rlsgs bfcm ~onpiston.Placeriugincy~ bore just above the intake and exhau8t ~ r t s , then square it up by ineertiag the botrom of anoldpiston.Measurethegapwithafsdar. gauge (Figor 90) and compuc specifications @ M 3). 'e 2. If ring gap k excessive in SWp 1, m* stepwiththe~intheotbar~.~ is also e x d v e in that cylinder, -r%al replaoe with another n c ~ v riag. 3. Ifringgapkimu&Winr8(iae oftheringcanbumi

'I.

W
NOTE
Piston rings must b e i d l o d i n J Y r p 4 and Srep 5 with the b& on the inner e edge o the ring facing the piston dom. f See F & m 91.

CHAPTER EIGHT

ring an cmrectly established,instautheLoWg~on~

4. Once the

pistonwithaxingexppnder.Spndther@ just enough to fit it over the piston head and into position. See FigmP 66. 5. RepeatStep4toinstalltheupparcing. 6. Position each ring a0 that the piston

gmovelocatingpinfitsintheringgap.Proper ring positioning is necegsary to minicompression loss and prevent the ring ends from catching m the cylinder ports.

l.coatthepiston,~andcylinderbore with Chyder/U.S. M r n Outboard M t r aie oo oil. 2. Checlc the p&m dome number made during dkassembly and match piston with its comet cylinder. 3 k 3.5-15 hp-Place piaton assembly in bore with open end ofpiston pin facingthe top of the cylinder. See Fispre 92., 3B. 70-140 hp-Orient the in* side of piston to intake port side of c y W block. See Filrpn 93. 4. Insert piston into cylinder bore. Make sure the rings are properly positioned in their grooves and that the locating pins are ptdoned in the ring gaps. 5. Install a suitable ring comprrssor over the piston dome and rings. With compressor on cylinder head, tighten it until the compressed &Ticiently to enter the

cannecbhg rod end with one hand to it &om scraping or scratching the bors and slowly push piston into

CONNEllNG ROD AND

Refer to

94 for this pmcedun.

...

r:

.-

1. Lubricate the ganlrsbaft with chrynw U.S. Marim OutboardMotaroilaadisag in the cylinder block with the r e t a k riaq engaghg the cylinder block groove. 2. Instan the upper cranlrshaft bcarhq (lettered side up) with its bottom even with the inside of the cylinder walL 3. Slide lower seal on cranlrshaft until it, bottoms. Inner sealing lip with spriq n u t

facebearink

4. RepeatStep3toinstalluppersd. 5.Coatco~rodbtaringcagawith Rykon No. 2EP g e s . Place one cage in rae co~ecting and install roller rod 6. Position comeethg rod under crankahaff and pull it up to the crankpin. 7. Lightiy coat exposed part of crantcpin Rykon No. 2EP. Instan the other bearips

~~~ 8. CoatrodcapsgewthrtadswithLoctiteD,
Installcap and tighten cap sixem

~-~

CAUTION b The procerhtre detailed in Step 9 & " inaportant toproper engine optvationa~ &0ct6 &?~'ng C ~ O ~ . O k * properly, major engine ahmge can :. resukficnnakokatime-umnunlnrg , , and jkstrating pnnrs. W r s h $ v ok and w~Ih poticnce. galignnvnt cam@ ' be adiewd, r r p k the amnedi- d
O-

4
.m*

7 '.

9. Run a dental pick or pencil the cap match marks to checktap ~95.Rodand~murtbq that the dental pick smoothly across

plastic hamma.

mBll

..

3 a
Broperly

c2Hmmu EIGHT

me4 cap acnws to spedi~~tions (Table 1). 10. Rotate the cranlrshaff to check for binding. If the ctankshaff d s h a t M y ww over the full length of the aankph, loosen theradcapandnpeatstap9. "

Amembly (4.455 bp) 1. Remove cmmdng md caps. Coat connecting rod bearing surlac*i with Rykon No.2F!Pigea#.~abeariqB~half and needle intfy! rod 2A.Center main b w h g with slap ring-InstaH beprhie c a p &id bar@, tit r s c e s i n p m i t b n ' d ~ s a a p r i n g s that o itcovasthe2firaa\u;e~wktheram dovctaiL 2B.chm a h o i a ' a snap
ring-~tBe-~$t&nbeerisgmcem the bearing the abode with'& h* bom psg. &fit I *,RyIum N . 2EP & o

mwrad-fYM.9611b:3. Ifomk&Mr#a,!r%iWamain bearins,

dideor~bsrtiplanrcrnqluirsdInstan snapriqS,ifd 4. I f ~ p r s s m l l p ~ a m a i n ~ dideorpacgl~on'121nqluirsd
5. Ifcl.anlrshstturcsarsllrha$iprdalliton thecranlrshaffgraow~f$etxm&

6. I f ~ u a a s a m t n r m r d n ~ withsnap ring, posithtbebGariognc~ss0 their locating hoks will dig0 u h the @ locating pins m the cyfindsrblock. 7. Lubricate m d c h f t ame&bly with C3rysIerN.S. Marine Outbmd b b t ~ ~ oil and lower into the cylinda Mook. Ckt c m k h f b with a slide-on lower main
8. Lightly coat the cranlrahaft journal with Rykon No. ZEP grollse. Install the roIlerbf%iDgsandraa?. 9. Draw connecting rods up annmd crankshaftctanlrpinj o d s . Coat oranltpins

11. Run a dental pick O pencil point along I the ground areas (Fislue a7) to check cap offset. Rod and cap must be aligned so that the dental pick or pencil point will pass smoothly across the tkwture line. If rod and cap are not properly aligned, gently tap cap with a plastic hammer. When alignment is correct, tighten cap screws to speci6~8tions (Table 1). 12. Rotate the crankshaft to check for binding. If the crankshaft does not float h l y over the full length of the crankpins, loosen the rod caps and repeat Step 11. 13. Position crankshaft seal (if used) with grtp facing directly up. 14. If a slide-on upper main bearing i s used, position bearing to extend 1/8 in. above top of bore. See Figwre 98. 15. If upper or lower main bearing has a locating pin, make sure that it is positioned in the pin groove in the block. Assembly (70-140 hp) 1. Install a new seal in the lower main bearing with tool part No. T 8925 until flush with bearing. Seal lip and garter spring must face outward. 2. Coat the cavity between the seal lips with Rykon No. 2EP grease and install lower main bearing and seal assembly on bottom of

crankshaft.
3. Press upper main bearing on crankshaft

with lettered side of bearing facing up. Coat outer surface of bearing with M t e D. 4. Coat crankcase seal grooves in crankshaft with Rykon No. 2EP grease and install a seal in each groove. 5. Assemble each main bearing to c r a n w (Figure 99). Holes in bearing race should be between snap r n on race and crankcase seal ig ring. 6. Install snap ring on each main bearing so it covers the 2 fmctum lines where the ma dovetail. See Figure 100.

moyl$daMaB,aB&ngtk

C l m The procedure detaiiW in Swp 12 ir ur imprtanl to pnpm en@m ?y operation ils it i@ects W n g mion.

not done p n w d ~ , W r w i n e &wge can mu/?.ft can a h & a

process. Workslowly and with potinrce.

I I ~ ~ b e c l c h i e v e c C
d a c e the connecting rod

Run a dental pick or pencil point along areas (Figwe 97) to check cap and cap m s be aligned so that ut
pick or pencil point will pss fmctwe line. If rod and aligaed, gentty tap cap hammer. When proper eve& tighten cap screws to

to check for

bead of EC-750 industrial sealant in the groove btfore installing the seal. Force the seal into the groove and let it set 15-20 rm minutes. T i the ends of the seal with a sharp knife, leaving about 1/32 in. of the seal end to butt against the bearins. Apply additional EC-750 sealant on both sides of the seal groove in the upper, center and lower m i bearing areas. See Figure 101. U e care an s not to apply an excessive amount, as it can squeeze over when the parts are mated and may block oil or water passages. RTV sealant is used on engines with no parting line seal groove. Some engines under 35 hp do have a parting line seal groove, but a spaghetti seal is not used. RTV sealant is recommended for use on such engines. The sealant should be evenly applied as shown in F i e 102 (1-cylinder) or F i 103 (2-cylinder). Make sure sealant reaches lower ae main seal case and upper main bearing r c . On engines with a seal groove, fill the groove completely with enough sealant to extend about 1/16 in. higher than the block surface. As with larger engines, do not apply an excessive amount that will overllow into the crankcase or onto bearings when the parts are mated. . Once EC-750 or RTV sealant has been applied, final torque should be applied to the crankcase bolts within 3 minutes to assure that the sealant does not have an opportunity to take a set.

Refer to Figure 44 for this p r o d u n ,

and isal the crankcase cover. ntl . 2. With crankcase and cylinder block -& solid surface, install the 2 locating pi84, suitable pin punch. 3. Wipe crankcase co RTV sealant. Install specifications (Table 1).

1. Apply RTV sealant to the cylinder blo&

c h

314

CHAFTER EIGHT

4. Rotate the crankshaft several turns to check for binding. If crankshaft does not turn easily, disassemble and correct the interference. 5. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Coat head bolt threads with RTV sealant. Install the 2 top screws with spacers and the 2 lower screwn with the bracket. Tighten bolts to specifications (Table 1). 6. Install the power head as described in this chapter.
4.415 hp

Refer to Figure 49 or Figure 50 for this procedure. 1. Apply RTV sealant to the cylinder block and install the crankcase cover. 2. With cranlccase and cylinder block on a solid surface, install the 2 locating pins with a suitable pin punch. 3. Wipe crankc~se cover screw threads with RTV sealant. Install screws and tighten to

specifications.
4. Rotate the crankshaft several turns to check for binding. If Ifrrankshaft does not turn easily, disassemble and correct the interference. 5. Use a bearing scraper to reqove the old lower crankshaft seal stake marks from the block and crankcase cover. 6. Fill the cavity between the lower crankshaft seal lips with Rykon No. 2EP grease. Install seal on crankshaft with spring side facing out. 7. Drive seal fully into bore with an appropriate installer. 8. Use a center punch to stake the outer edge of the seal in place-at 2 points 180' apart. Stake marks should be about 1/16-1/8 in. from edge of seal and deep enough to cover the outer seal edge with at least 0.005 in. of metal. See Figure 104. 9. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Install the head bolts with washers

assembly, then install screws and lead w&s clip (if used). Position assembly on qUp& block and tighten screws to oms (Table 1). Tighten inner screws first, tbm outer screws. 11. I s a l the cylinder drain cover with a ntl new gasket. Make sure the screens cover the cover check valves. Isal hose clamp with ntl t p right hand cover screw, if used. Tighten o aU screws to spedications (Table 1). 12. Install the transfer port covets (if so equipped) with new gaskets. Tighten snews to specifications (Table 1). 13. I s a l exhaust tube to power head, if s ntl o
equipped. 14. I s a l the power head as described in ntl

this chapter.

Refer to F@re 51 for this procedure. 1. Apply RTV sealant to the cylinder W and install the crankcase cover. 2. With crankcase and cylinder block o solid surface, install the 2 locating pins witha suitable pin punch. 3. Install the crankcase cover screws .tighten to specifications working fiom inside out in a circle. 4. Rotate the crankshaft several turns Qo check for binding. If crankshaft does not Wa easily, disassemble and c r e t Sbc orc interference. 5. Install lower crankcase seal collar ( 1 Qside up) and seal protector (part Na. T @T@ on end of crankshaft (Figure 107). jOOPq tlpP cavity between the seal lips with Rykp&& 2EP grease. Push seal c o k onto and remove seal pro-r, 6. Make sure O-ring is s a e in etd groove, t e drive cdlor hn with installer No. T 89 0.30 in. above the Fillpre 108.

316

tXAPlER EIGHT

7. Install thermostat and g o m t in rme cylinder head. I s a l cover with new gasket. ntl 8. Install cylinder head with a new gasket. T i t e n head bolts to specifications (Table 1) following the sequence shown in Figure 109. 9. Install transfer port cover with a new gasket. Tighten screws to specifications (Table 1) in a spiral pattern starting at the center. 10. Sandwich the exhaust port plate between new gaskets. Fit cover to plate/g&et assembly, then i s a l screws. Position ntl assembly on cylinder block and tighten screws to specifications (Table 1) in a spiral pattern starting at the center. 11. I s a l the power head as described in ntl t i chapter. hs

1966-1975 35 h~ AU 45 and 50 hp; 1967-1976 55 hp

Refer to Figure 57 for ti procedure. hs 1. I s a l spaghetti seals in the cylinder block ntl grooves. Apply RTV sealant as shown in Figwe 101 and install the crankcase cover. 2. With crankcase and cylinder block on a solid surface, install the 2 locating pins with a suitable pin punch. 3. I s a l the crankcase covert bolts and ntl screws. Tighten to speci6cations (Table 1). 4. Rotate the crankshaft several turns to bkforbinding.Ifcrankshaftdoesnottm easily, disassemble and correct the interference. 5. Install thermostat assembly to cylinder ldasshown in Fgw 110. i 6 fnstall cylinder head with a new gasket. . b t the first 314 in. of each head bolt with rradadze lubricant. .Tighten head bolts to ~ t i o n s (Table 1) following the

water tube between the tmer and block fitting. er drain assembly as

10. I@ the fuel pump cover with a mew &t. 11. Sandwich the exhaust port plate Wwem new gaskets. Fit cover to p l a assembly, then install screws Positioa assembly on cylinder block and t h i m g screws to specifications (Table 1) in a pattern slarting at the center. 12. Electric start-Install the coil mounting bracket. 13. Install the power head as deacribad in this chapter.

1).

Refer to Figure 67 for this procedure. 1. Install spaghetti seals in cylinder blaok grooves. Apply RTV sealant as shown in Mgure 101 and install the ctanlccase cover. 2. With crankcase and cylinder block on 8 solid d a c e , instauthe 2 locating pins with it suitable pin punch. 3. Imtdl the crankcase cover bolts 4 screws. Tighten to specG5cations (Tabla 12 4. Rotate the amkshaft several turns tai check for binding. If crankshaftdoes not turn easily, dhswmble and correct th@

)I

interference.
5. Install the remote cable assembly, shift lever and pivot. See F i i 74. 6. Install lower bearing cage. "Front" should faee the front head. 7. Install the forward stabilizer 8. Sandwich the exhaust nmv gaskets. fit WHeT to assembly, then iastall assembly on cylinder

p a staahgatthe,'~. m

10, b t d l cylinder head cover to cylinder bQlldwithamwgasket. 11. Imatall the thermoswitch in the cylinder bned cover. Uh Install cylinder head assembly to power ~ w i S h a n e w ~ 13. Inotall the themostat assembly as shown ie F l g m 69. 14. Tighten head bolts to sped6~8tions (Tabla 1) followiag the sequence shown in

Ftpere 105.
15. hmll the bmm v e h oover to the power head with a new gasket.

Refer to Figure 78 (3-cylinder) or Ffgure 79 (4-cylinder) for this procdue. 1. Install spashstti seals in the cylinder block groove5. Run a thin bead of RTV sealant d n the area between the spaghetti seals and og $he cxmkhft openine. Apply RTV sealant a both side8 of the seal grooves at the upper a & lower main bearings. Install the
Qankcase coyer. 2. Wt crankcase and cylinder block on a ih

6. Make sure the power head and bearing, cage gasket surfaces are clean. 7. Fit a new becuing seal on the bearing cage bore with its major sealing lip facing into the bore. Press seal into bore with a suitable installer. 8. Install a new O-ring on the bearing cage. 9. Run a thin bead of RTV sealant around the mating mfhce ofthe bearing cage. Apply sealant at a p~bt midway betweenthe O-ring seal and screw holes. 10. I s a l Benl protector part No. T 8927 on ntl Lubricate the beariug cage seal lips with Ryksn No. 2 EP grease, then slide the bearing cage over the seal protector and onto the power head. 11. Wipe bearing cage screw theads with RTV sealant. Install and tighten screws to specifications Wnble I, then remove the seal ) protector.

solia surface, install the 2 lwting pins with a

&ible pin punch.
NOTE
t

l 3 k - engine har 8 cowr bolts; ~ ~ the Ccylinder en&e wes 7 bolts and I
.-

h&-t theexardtcase cover bolt threadswith

Ia40U the bolts and tighten to ( T a b 1) working &om the
h e scnws and tighten
several turns to does not turn . ted wrnet the

on the power head and install the plate. Tighten spacer plate nuts to exhaust tube mating area on the TV sealant. Wipe exhaust with M t e D and install tube. Tighten screws to specifications ), then install a new exhaust t b seal. ue Install transfer port covers with new and tighten screws to specifications wich the cylinder drain reed plate new gaskets. Fit drain cover to reed

assembly, then install screws. Coat screw threads with anti-seize compound Position assembly on cylinder block and t&tm screws to specifications (Table 1) in a spfral panem starting at the center. 19. Coat cylinder head cover side of cylinder head with RTV sealant. Install corn to cylinder head.
NOTE Figure 112 is the #-cylinder torque pattern To use it for 3-cylinder engines, follow the sequence from I to 14.

If cylinder drain plate fitting was , wipe threads with M t e H and with nipple pointing directly up.

20. Install cylinder head assembly w t a new ih gasket. Tighten the head bolts to specifications (Table 1)following the sequence in

F&me 112.

21. Install thermostat assembly as shown in Figure 80. Thermostat bypass slot should face 22. Install thermoswitch (Figure 80). 23. Install the power head as described in this chapter.

gaskets. Fit cover to platelgasket

80
4.4-8 hp 190-1976 1977-1979 1990-on ' 82-18 hp 19661976 1977-1979 1WO-on 20 hp 1906.1978 1977-n 26-30 hp 1979-1979 1980.0n

90 110 80 110 120 80 110 180-190 165-175 180-190 (conUnunl)

)1
1

L.
b

320
Tmbb 1 POWER HEAD T I Q H T E W I W Q 'IOIIQUES' (

CHAPTER EIGHT

Pa*tonor
Connecting rod =row 55 hp 70-135 hp 1968-1979 100-on All others Crankcase cover b o b 70-140 hp Cylinder drain cover bolts 70-140 hp Cylinder head b o b 3.5-4 hp 4.9-5 hp 4.4, 4.5, 8, 8.8 and 8 hp 1968-1978 1977-1979 1980-011 9.2-15 hp 1968-1976 1977-1979 198O-on 20 hp 1966-1978 1979-on 25 and 35 hp 1973-1978 1979-on 30 hP 45-50 hp 55 hp 1967-1979 1980-on 70-140 hp CD shock mount stud Nut W b u t o r Waft nut Exhaust covw screw 9.9-15 hp 20-55 hp F w l pump cover-to-body screws 70-140 hp F w l tank screws nut 36 hp .4 4.44 hp a.8-18 hp

InAb.

k4b.

270-280 170 180-190 180-190 270 70 130

80
125 110 130 120 125 130 115.135 190 225 190 190 270 270 225 225
I

20-40 90 80 90 85-75 30-35 90 17 40 45-W 151 5555

mhp

45
(co~nrrm) 55-65

~ W E R HEAD

321
~ . b k i c o w . I I ~ t w r m a w Q ~ ' 1 ~

*h8hD.r

ML.

Mb.
80

Nywhwi nut 4s-sohP W hp 1987-1978 lOllOan 70-140 hp Onr shnt arm pin Pam head-to-motor leg 9.9-50 hp All o(h.n Power head-to-qmcw plats Sp.cr p l r l b t o - ~ o leg r Smuing handle and magneto control shaft aetacnw 9.9-15 hp M othan Stwdng support tube nuts Stam bracket bolt 9.9-15 hp All othen Stsm bmcket clamp screws l'hennoswitch Transfer port cover rcrawa 9.B-15 hp All othan Standard torqw volues (rwew or nut aize) 6-32 8-32 10-24 10-32 12-24 1/4-20 SIlbl8 Ubl8
1 UW ewndard torque valuar If specific faatenof is nol listed. . 2 Torque AutolecWc armature boll to 25 ft.-lb.

Table P C L r m a E L REMOVAL TOOL

Part NO.

a5 hp (I--iw~) and 36 hp . a5 hp (188hn) . nd4hp 4 4 hp (except 7.5 hp) .4 7.646 hp (except 6 hp) a ignition M.gMto Ignition (10140 hp

T 2919
T 8998

T 18091
T 2909

T 2910 T 8W-1

322
Tabla 3 PISTON RlNO aAP SPECIFICATIONS Engina
3.5-7.5 hp 9.9 hp 12-15 hp 20-25 hp 30 hp Top rlng Bottom ring 36-50 hp (except 1983-on 35 hp) 1963-on 35 hp Top ring Bottom ring 55-85 hp 1967-1980 1981 55 hp Top ring Bonom ring 70-115 hp 125-140 hp Top rlng Bottom ring

CHAPTER EIGHT

Oap (In.)

Chapter Nine

Gearcase

Torque is transferred from the engine crankshaft to the gearcase by a drive shaft. A piion gear on the drive shall meshes with a drive gear in the gearcase to change the vertical power flow into a horizontal flow through the propeller shaft. The power head drive shaft rotates clockwise continuously when the engine is running, but propeller rotation is controlled by the gear train shifting mechanism. On Chrysler and Force outboards with a reverse gear, a sliding clutch engages the appropriate gear in the gearcase. This creates a direct coupling that transfers the power flow from the pinion to the propeller shaft. Figure 1 shows the operation of the gear train. Smaller outboards with a NEUTRAL but no REVERSE gear utilize a spring-loaded clutch to shift between NEUTRAL and FORWARD gear. Gear train operation is shown in Figure 2 (disengaged) and Figure 3 (engaged). The gearcase can be removed without removing the entire outboard from the boat. This chapter contains removal, overhaul and

installation procedures for the propeller, gearease and water pump. Table 1 is at the end of the chapter. The gearcases covered in this chapter differ somewhat in design and construction over the years covered and thus require slightly different senice procedures. The chapter is arranged in a normal disassembly/assembly sequence. When only a partial repair is required, follow the procedure(s) for your gearcase to the point where the faulty parts can be replaced, then assemble the unit. Since this chapter covers a wide range of models from 1966-on, the gearcases shown in the accompanying illustrations are the most common ones. While it is possible that the components shown in the pictures may not be identical with those being serviced, the l step-by-step procedures may be used with al models covered in this manual.
PROPELLER

2"-'

t. f ra
ha

5.4

The outboards covered in this manual use variations of 2 propeller attachment designs.

CHAPTER NINE

a dot in-the propeller hub, which is retained

b~acatterpia

On some models, the cotter pin passes through a cone-type nut that is separate from . the propeller. See Figure 4 In this design, a
metal pin installed in t e propeller shaft h engages a recessed slot in the propeller hub. A the shaft rotates, the pin rotates the s

pmpeUer.Thedrivepinisde&gnedtobreak if the propeller hits an obtruction in the water and has 2 advantages. The pin absorbs the impact to p m m t possible pmpdlm damage. It also alerts the user t the fact that o something ia wrong, simr the engine speed will increase immediately i the pin breaks. f Propellem on the larger geanwes ride on thrust b r i n g s and are retained by a caskllated nut and cotter pin or a nut and screw amngement. See F l p e 5. Any undemater impact is absorbed by the propeller hub.

1. To mnove the propelk on smaller units:

a Remove and dixard t e cotter pin. h b. Unscnw the propeller nut from the c. Remove drive pin from propeller with
an appqniate punch. Remove propeller and 0-ring, Di#.ard the
O-ring.
NOTE
Propekshqlton4.5and6

Pmehshaft

hp9reeiol

modelcisnor~linadbutslrorldbe

c l d in Slep d.

d. clean propcher &aft splines thoroughly. Inspect the pin engagement slot in the propeller hub and shaft for Or dama%e. e. hstdlation is the reverse of removal. W e a t e the propeller shaff with

aati-adze lubricant. U e a new drive pin s

and tatter pin. 2. To remove the propeller on l r e units: agr a. Remove the cotter pin !hm the propellernut.Diacardthe~* b. Remove the nut from the shak c. Remove the stop nut, plain washer anid hub o flare washer &om the &it. r dRemovethepropelleranddeantbt pRbpeller shaft s p l k s thoroughly. e. btabtim is the reverse of nmwal. L&&ate propeller shaft with antiis& lubricant and use a new cotter pin.

1. Discomect the spark plug lead as a safety precaution to prevent any accidental starting of the engine during lower unit removal. 2 Remove the propeller as described in this

chapter. 3. Pry the clip from the h n t of the motor @ with a screwdriver. See E " I 6. 4. h o v e the. nut under the clip at the ,upper front ofthe gea~ta~e. 5. Remove the hex head screw from W upper rear edge of the gemcase.

the lubricant. Check the drain container for signs of water s e p a d o n from the lubricant.. 6. Tilt the motor leg up and carefully separate the gearcase. Remove the gearcase from the motor leg. 7. I s a l the gearcase in an appropriate ntl holding fixture. 8. Place a suitable container under the gearcase. Remove the vent and drain screws (Figure 7). Drain the lubricant from the unit.
I

(IArnON Do not greaae the t q of the &ve sh&l in &q 10. !I7& m y emmiwly prelorul the dn'w sh@ and cnrnkrhrlff when the mowing b k s are tightened fdlure qf the and cause a p~emature p o w head or greurrcape.

If the lubricant is creamy in color or

metallic particles are found in Step 9, the gearcase mud be complstaly disarsembled to determine and comeci the cause of the problem.

NOTE

10. To reinstall the gemax, lightly lubriaitc the drive shaa splines w t anti-& ih compound. 11. Podtion gearoase under motor leg and align drive shaft splines with the crankshaft. 12. 3.6 hp-Slip water tube end into rubber seal of water pump.
CAUTION Do nof rotate the flywheel cocmterclockw& in Sfep 13. This can damage the water pump impellet.

9. Wipe a small amount of lubricant on a linger and rub the finger and thumb together. Check for the presence of metallic particles in the lubricant. Note the color of the lubricant. A white or creamy color indicates water in

13. Push the gearcase into place, r t t n the oaig flywheel clockwise as required to let the drive shaft and crankshaft engage.

2. h o v e the p r o p c l b * * w in this cwm. 1. ' 3. Prytheshiftco~l.overibrtrmtheBidsof

the m o t o r l e g ~ aSet~ . 8. 4. Loosentheshift 5. Remove the 2 to the motor leg. : 6. Tilt the motor leg up and
. I .

~6erhegearcaat.RemoMthe.~

from the mator leg 7.Inctanthegearcsrein.n holding fixture. 8 Place a suitable container undst ibc . geararae. Re~nove vent and draia sums. the Dmin the hbrlcant h m the unit.
NOTE ~lhelubriemiscreanryinodorcn mefa@ particks are f in Slca 9. d the gparmpe musf be corn-y & d e d to &ermine and comer the calm?ofthe pmbtem

9 Wipe a small amount of lubricant m a . 6ngerandrubthe~andthumbtogiether. Checkfotthepresmceufmetallic~in the lubricant. N t thc color of the lubricant. oe A white or emmy color indicates wata in .thelubricaut.CheckthedraiacOntaimrFa ~ h e x h e o d r a e w a t r e a r o f ~ signs of water separation from the lubricant t m to S p e d I d m (Table! 1). @ hstallnutonshdatfrontofgeprcase. CAUTION to L X c t (Table 1 q ei i bm ) . Do not grease the top of the lkc sh& in ap 10. T i m a y c. &+ e t hs m

the propelk as described in this

prcloadthedriveshapand~ when the mounting bob are ti&ed

andcauseammatmfeihacEftk

.Sse Chagtet Four.

rusdrelill Uantity of

~ n r r r h e e d o r ~ .

35a#le"l;aoa4hp as a safety the spsrk plug to prevent any acduntal startiag duringlowernnitramoval

10. To reimtdl the gearcase, the drive haft splines compound. 11. Pull lower shift I d poagible. 12. Run a b d of

g~rmsematitrl-

1. S t a r t t h e ~ i a t o ~ r o g t i s e t h e 4 nyrarhea-*nQahtdtabatwdrive
8wtsed
wsterttrbcaml. ~thellppg~.ZDd*thelowcr~
1s. Align

rod 1. 6 1. C a a t ~ ~ s i m w ~ ~ 7 W i t h W 7 sa&rAt. bsw bBtll.amw5 d tightan t o

spU$katia811).

18.PIPoem~inNEUTRAL.Maloe smethe~gYSnaodiSantbs~uprad tigaten the couJrlea 8mw. 19. Pasition SWw ~ c o w eon motor leg r andtapintophaanitjrslgttmalla U ) . I n o t a ] i t h e ~ a s ~ i i n t b i s ( ll 1) Dan the lukiarnt film rire Fla 1. ri
c .-

2 . ReComm~&plas,WaDdnrrgll 1 l * S e e ~ ~ ,

rmit.

t h e ~ ~ p r o p c l ~ ~ ~ q g a n ~ o f

NOTE

~tkchrQriccusthmmyinoalorol
~ t o

met& partick m r j k d in S p 8, e the wwase c o m ~ w

tk~lluse~khe~rwM~~

1 Disw~ect*sgarkpSuglcgds8s~ss&ty . pncaution~P=-t=~-startiag

8. W i o amount of lubricantana oftheeagies~lowcrllpit~ ~~mbtha~dtbumbtogcth 2 R c n u w c t h e ~ a s ~ i n t h i scha&Eortbk~of~~partidssta . 'Y the lubricant. Note the d m &the lubrieam. .thtacrawatthr:rilremtofthe A white or mamy color iadicata water in @ l ~ ~Check the drain condllimr for t . thm o xa h* 4 Removcthe~martbeQbsest~. ~ o f w a t a ~ ~ t h e ~ c . 5 . m t h e m a t o r k g u p a d ~ y geaml& and mrCcrwitrtkrn mator leg.

&frPatellthegesl.oaseinmaEpol3ia9e

aa ~ -

~thb~tddreitss4savs

1s. R=nn&

*spovktype l@&&W plug ;& gearcase with proper q*&(

;

luixicmt. See Chapter Four.

1. Diseonaectthe~parkplug~Masasafaty precaution to p e n t any atxidental startinB aftht a+e a* lower unit removal. 2. Place a container uadrr the gearcase. Remove the vent and ~JU plugs. Drain the lubricant from the unit.
NOTE @the Meant is creamy in color or nnetalzie priicles am found in Step 3, she getucase mupl k completely disrlssemb:Eed ro detom'ne and m c wl ticc c a w o Eire ppoblem f

the geercaee, lightly lubricate drive shaft * a with allti-&@ h ii n gearcase a d e r motor leg and sto drivesbiaAspEtmwiththecranlqhaft.
CILrTION
&J

be

m a the &vheel

coimer-

~inSep1I.This~Bomage

the w w p u l a p impelIBI..

1. Pusl~ geamse into place, rotating the the 1 d o c h as required to let the drive d crankshaft engage. go water tube with pter tube seal and garme against motor leg. . Coat screw threads with anti-seize und. Install mews and tighten to

3. Wipe a gmall amount of lubricant on a finger and tub the finger and k b together. Check for the presence of metallic particha in the labrimat Mote the wlor of the lub&ant. A white or creamy &or iadicates water in the lubricant. Check the drain wntaiaer for signs of w a e separation fiom t 1 w k m 4. Remove &e propeller as -bed in thjs chapter. 5. Move the &ift lwar into FORWARD (7.5 and 9.2-15 hp) .or 'REVERSE (4.4-8 h) @ p. ~ , r o ~ t h e p r o ? e f i e t s h a f i.~ t l y ~ , help wit engage. 6. Remove the 4 hex head screws at tIie:b#te of the moton leg. 7. !%parate the gectrcase from the m o c s p . ~ .
t

rn&toep3Sethescrew~h!* shift rods togebr. h o v e the Saar

Remove the gaaro~se 9. Mount thegeamseinr

8;

the propeller as d d b e d in this

tzHAmER NINE
the motor leg-to-gearcase mounting surface (motor leg-to-extension on long shaft models) with the gearcase in NEUTRAL. See Figrw 13. 11. P l up on gearcase lower shift rod to ul 75 place gearcase in FORWARD ( . and 9.2-15hp) or REVERSE (4.4-8hp).
CAUTION Do not grease the top of the drive shqft in Step 12. This May awesively preload the drive sh& and crankshaft when the mounting bolts are tight& and cause a prernataw failure of the power head or gecrrcase.

1 . L g t y lubricate the drive shaft splines 2 ihl with anti-seize compound.

CAUTION

Do not rotate the jlywheel counterclockwise in Step 13. This crm damage the water pump impeller.

1 . Position gearcase under motor leg. Align 3

water tube in water pump seal and drive shaft with crankshaft splines. I 1 . Push gearcase toward the motor l g 4 e, rotating the flywheel clockwise as required to let the drive shaft and cmbhaft engage. Align the lower and upper s i trods as shown hf in Figure 14. 1 . Install the shift rod screw and tighten 5 securely. 1 . Make sure the water tube is seated in the 6 water pump seal, then push gearcase against motor leg and ins* the gearcase screws. T g t n screws t specifications (Table 1). ihe o 1 . Install the propeller as described in this 7 chapter. 1 . Reconnect the spark plug leads and refill 8 the gearcase with proper type and quantity of lubricant. See Chapter Four.

1. Disconnect the spark plug leads as a safety precaution to prevent any accidental starting of the engine during lower unit removal. 2 Place a container under the gearcase. . Remove the vent and drain plugs. Drain the lubricant from the unit.
NOTE
If the lubricant is creamy in color or metallic particles are found in Step 3, the gearcase must be completely disassembled to determine and correct the cause of the problem.

5. Remove the motor leg covers. 6. Loosen the jam nut above the shill rod coupling. See Figme 15. 7. Shift the engine into REVERSE. If necessary, rotate the propeller shaft slightly to help unit engage. 8. Rotate coupling clockwise until the lower and upper shift rods separate. 9. Remove the 4 hex head bolts holding the gearcase to the motor leg (motor leg extension on long shaft m d l ) oes. 10. Remove the gearcase from the motor lag or extension. 11. Mount the gearcase in a suitable holding fixture. 12. To reinstall the gearcase, thread the lower shift rod in the shift cam until it bottoms. Back shift rod out until the bend in the rod is centered over the front starboard water pump mounting screw.
CAUTION Do not grease the top of the drive sh@ in Step 13. This may excessively preload the drive shqR and crankshaft when the mounting bolts are tightened and cause a premature failure of the power head or gearcase.

13. Liahtlv lubricate the drive shaft mlina - . with anti-seize compound. 14. Slide geamase into place on the motor leg. Make sure the water pick-up tube aer$r,in the water pump seal and the lower reQ aligns with the hole in the front of the mtet leg. -Wipe a s a l amount of lubricant on a ml rub the finger and thumb together. the presence of metallic particles in t. Note the color of the lubricant. creamy color indicates w t r in ae hbricant. Check the drain container for of w t r separation from the lubricant. ae Remove the propeller as demibed in t i hs
CAUTION Do not rw the flywheel matttm o clockw~se Slep 15. This tun damag$ in the warer pump impeller.
'

15. Push gcarcase upward until contacts crankshaft.

crankshaft *es,
and crankshaft engage.
*.

:am

~ a n d ~ t c n t h e
13. Shiff gearwe ink, PWJXRAL.

YB. Thread coupler

lewar enti of coupler thGn dhread coupler on
kl3QbonsUppOrt*wjs

position). 19. Ti&m 6oty,1.~ltjaa nut and isal ntl motorkgoovefs. 20. h t d l the pmpdk qe in this ehaptff.
21.

Fhigwaadmm
@@!&&

tbe

q ~ ~ l l t iofy t

lubricant. Sae Chapm Four.

1. Diswmecf the spa%plug leads as a ssfety to prevent m y bocidexttal starthg of the engine during low& unit removal. 2. Place a contahx under the gearcase. Remove the vent and drain plugs. Drain the lubricant from the unit
precaution

If the lubricant

NOTE

is cream in &or o r metallic particles are found in SteQ 3, the gearcase nwst be ,mpIclely disassembled to determine a d lgorreet the utuse of the p d h .

finBer and rub the finger and .thumb together.

3. Wp a s a l amount of lt@kant ie m l

on a
7. Remove exhaust snout on onepiece gearcasm. Reach into the exhaust snout cavity and remove the mew and loc-er. 8A. On models w t an exposed shift rod pis ih (Figore I@, remove the cotter pin holding the shift rod pin to the upper shift rod coupler. 8B. On models w t an internal shift rod pin ih (iue Fgr 17), separate gearcase fiom motor leg enough to expose shift rod clevis or coupTer. Remove cotter pin and shift rod pin. Remove the clevis, if so equipped.

Check for the presence ofmetallie pmticles in

the lubricant. Note the color o the lubricant. f A white or creamy color indicates w t r in ae the lubricant. Check the drain container for sieJns of water separation from the lubricant. 4. Remove the propeller as described in this chapter. 5. Remave the motor leg cove18 and upper Siac shock mounts, if so equipped. 6. Rmov8 the fasteners holding the geamse lo the m m r leg (motor leg extension on long shaft models).

with the shift rod

12. wipe gealxwe do not tightm. 13. -shift
.- WW.:,~. .

rods and ~ . davis (if u e ) a d clevis or s W k : ~ . a i sd

Inmllanewcottsrgintoretdn~,~q$ shiftrodpin. ,. . 14. Titem mounting smws t o ..~ .,
c t 0 1 @able 1). ~i18

15. h&dl the - 1 1m as demibad i0 tBii$ chaptn. 16. R~cornbct spark plug leads and & tht the gearwse with proper rnand ~uaut'itr d lubricant. ,SeeChapter F u . or

ve the gearcase from the mofor leg ount in a suitable holding fixture.
CAUTION
Do not grease the top of the drive sh@ i Step 10. This may excessively n preload the drive shaft and crankshafr when the mounting bolts are tightened and cause a premature failure of the power head or gearcase.

1966.m 3.5 bpe 1978.1977 3.6 hp; 49b~5hp .I. Remove the geasoasct as desuibat in t W chapter' 2. 3.6-5 hp-Remove the Wtet POmrp P dcmibed in this c.$apter. 3. Ramoverhe 2 tbe mp to t e gemme @ h u e 18). h 4. Gently tap the oap edge w t a ih manet to bndc 5. Remove cap Erom 6. Remove d diaoard the
@kt, 7. Ay seal &(R
Digcadd retainer.

PQ. Lightly lubricate the drive shaft s l n s pie h h anti-seize compound.

t

ftom ca1?:.!W

I
1 .

\:
'

CAUTION Do n t rotate the flywheel countero clockwise in Srep 11. This can damage the water pump impeller.

8. Remowcapbionsred 9. Pallprop!dl~W 10. Remove dFkia

sllownin~%.

17. 8ul

l Bcnrr a
a-pluO

l. w . h r o

2 . Q.rcu 1 22 scnr

-=-a=
lO.~rOdI..I
11. W . ( . c M . H
r p o. r h -

24.CMchmph 2s. ~ o r r ~

2 . Clulcll 7

a.~~

1 1 . ~ e h m a 1LDrk.alWt.rl

a ~ ~ guid. pin . e h a.C*lch.pring so. m=-

86.

m.
40.-

so. #.nul
sr.-pk

Rop.awpk

51. 04. 32.Roplw*I.nul

4 . mbg1

s 6

CHAPTEB NINE

QCARCASE ( U T E 35 HP) .
1 Drlw8hati . 2BM 3.%nrr
4. w e u p n p p k m

s.knpln weu(ub.ul 7. weupmpbody 8. MA I 9 LwLrrnkn . 10. Pump dtiw pin 11. &ml 1 . mlvoshan.ul 2 13. amucesa 1 . 8cmw 4 1s.m-w-

I . Ropru 8hati S 2 . Pklongwr 0 21. Fomrdgur 2 . 8m 2 c

25. 24. m

l orho a 1 . RopCshanw* 7 l mg a a.

u nut 2. cauph 6 26. Rop.l*rph a-piupnd*rrha =.Tkn*tpln 2 . #ug s

am not available, position the gimvqw

llprisbtwiththeskeBbstwem~~
-

thirchaptnr. 4 ~emove 4 scmw holding the p r o ~ n g ' . the 24. retainer to the bearing cage. See 5. Install f y h e puller (part No. T 89484 lwel as shown i Figure U and remove pmpdh n d e r . 6. Remove the pmpek shaft bearhgca~le with O-ring and spacer. 7. Withdraw the propeller shaft from tbe
gearcaae.

8. Remove the clutuh shift rod and cam,

CIVTION end wiih a shop c W in 9ep9.Ifsp*prewunisralaacad SUddcAly. thc dutch guiBe pin may
Cow sh&

shoot

ow rapidly.

9. Clamp the propeller shaft (propend down) in a vise with protective jaws or wmppd in shop cloths. Use a small smwdrivor t@ compress the clutch spriq and remove tbs dutch fmm the shaft slot Ili): Removctheclukh~pinand~ , ; 10. Check front gear assembly on prepaOlb shaft. If fitted with a roll pin, drive *aJ1 and remove the gear. If there is no rdl p , h used, separate the gear from the &a& 1 . Prythedriveshaftsealfmm 1 bore wt a d v e r . See Ptprs 2%-,q ih 1. P o s i t i o n ~ c a g e f a c e d o w n ~ 2 v s jaws or t o blocks o wood. ie w f out with a suitable punch. 13. ClePaandiasped inthischapta.Check gearcaw. If worn or Bearcase housing. , J .!v...: 1. Install a new seal in w a r n 4 a suitable iostaller. outandsealcaaesbopldbs~ belowbealingeeee-&~:a

m *

15. Install clutch spring m propellea Bhaft &ty,theninaertdPtchpinguide.Plooea

~vertocompnmthespring,thenslida the clutch in the prop ahaft slot. 16. Install a new drive shaft s u m gemme cl bus& with a suitable hstalk. Spriug aide should face out. 17. P d m a new O-ring in the shift rod cavity groove. 1 8 . l n s s a l l ~ r o ~ e b ~ ~ ~ y l d a r in gtarcase. 19.Installwaterpumposdescdk#linthis
bptg.

20. Install spaar and bewing age. PaPh bearing cage into gsarcaee until the 0-rhg groove is exposed. btaU a new O-ring 21. ~ t h e ~ c o g e r e t r r i n e r a n d a l i g n
thebolthOlGgwipe~boittiuead8with

RTVstalnntlnstPlll.tohand~to spedcationi@'Ms . 1). 22. Pressurstestthsgeamseas~bedm

thiscbapter.

23. Install the gtara& as deaoribed in this

charm.FEwithwithmaQd quantity of lubricant kChapter Four. 24. Check gear#lsc lubcbnt level a k engine has been ran. e$sage the hbrimt

5. hitall flywhal pk Cpvt No. T W48-1) l as shown in Figare 25 and remove propeller ntainer. 10 h o ~ ~ ~ o f ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ p 6.Remmthelnopdlerdraftbearirrg~age s r i o d ) . and O-ring. See m tr F u . p e or 7. Remove the mema gear and thrust washg f o the pmpeller shaft. rm 8. Withdraw the pmpda shaft from the . Refato Iilgare 29 for tlrhspmadm. 9. mgearcssecQeningdownwardandcatch 1. R e m o v e t h e ~ a s ~ i n t h i s thedutchshiftcamasitdropsout. cfiapter. lO.~theforwardandpiniongealS 2.SecurethegeerosaeinaauitaMe~ fromthe geacm. fixtun or a vise with p m d v e jam If 11.Removetheclutchshiftpinfromthe proactivejlcwsamnqavailPMe,~the front ofthepropallersbaft ~UPriBhtwlththes iree~
woorh blocks in a vi&

3. Remve thewaterpumpasdemiiin
tetQebeeringage.seSmgmre2(.

CAUTION
a shop doth in

A 12. g l f W

Cowrsh& &with

suddornly, t k

pressuw IS released clutch guide pin may

m su . wrv

1l2.Qamp the propeller shaft (prop end h in a vise with protective jaws or ) wrapped in shop cloths. U e a small s amwdriver to compress the clutch spring and rm remove the clutch f o the shaft slot (Figure 26). Remove the clutch guide pin and spring. 13. Ry the drive shaft seal h m the gearwe bore with a scmvdriver at the point shown in Fisme 30. 14. Position bearing cage face down on open vise jaws or two blocks of wood. Drive seal out with a punch. 15. Clean and inspect all parts as deadbed

inthischapter.Checkdriveshaftbearingin gearrase. If worn or damag& replace the

Bearcase housing. 16. Installanew sealinthebearingcagewith

1,

an installer. Spring side should face out and seal case should be flush to 0.030 in. below bearingcage surface. See - 1 3. 17. Install clutch spring in propeller shaft cavity, then insert clutch pin guide. Place a shop cloth over the shaft end and w e a small screwdriver to compms the spring, them slide the clutch in the prop shaft slot. See Figure 32. 18. Install a new drive shaft seal in gearcase housing with an installer. Spring side should face out. 19. Position a new O-ring in tiic shift rod cavity groove. U).Installthewaterpumpasdescriiin this chapter. Do not isal the pump body ntl bteners at this time. 21. Drop clutch shift aun into the gearme shift rod cavity. 22. P l the drive shaft up about 5/8 in. and ul installtheforwardgearandbearingassembly. 23. Position pinion gear in gearcsse unda drive shaft. Slowly rotate drive shaft while holding pinion gear u t l their splines align, ni then seat the drive shaft and w t r pump ae assembly to engage the pinion gear. 24. Wipe the w t r pump fe ae -r threads with RTV sealant. Install and tighten

.ow (an nm)

fasteners and extension stud to specifications (Table 1). 25. InstaU the gear shift rod,engage the shift cam and push down on rod to position shift cam in REVERSE. 26. Install thrust washer and reverse gear in that order on the propeller shaft, then insert the propeller shaft in the gearcase. Shaft should engage forward gear with clutch shift pin sliding into reverse &tent on shift cam. 27. Lubricate propeller shaft splines with anti-& compound and install the bearing

ge into gearcase while rotating propeller

raft to engage reverse gear with pinion gear. 1. Seat bearing cage until gearcase O-ring Install a new 0 - ring and w No. 2EP grease s. Installthe b&ing cage retainer and align le bolt holes. Wipe retainer bolt threads with TV sealant. Install bolts and tightp to piiicatiom (Table 1). b Pressure test the mucase as described in .

rcase as described bap2er. Fill with recommended type and

miy of lubricant. See Chapter Four. tt & Check gearcase lubricant level after ngine has been run. Change the lubricant ItQ 10 hours of operation (break-in period). p Chapter Four.

LC15 hp (Two-piece Gearca~e) :Refer to E " i 33 for this procedure.

m r .

;Remove the gearcase as described in this

2. Secure the gearwe in a suitable holding fixture or a vise with ptective jaws. If protective jaws are not avaiWk2-ti011 the gearcase upright with the skeg between wooden blocks in a vise. 3. Remove the water pump as described in this chapter. 4. Remove the 2 screws holding the bmhg cage assembly to the lower gearcase. 5. Install flywheel puller (part No. T 8948-1) as shown in Fgr 25 and remove bmhg iue cage assembly. 6. Remove the long hex bolt in front of the water pump cavity. 7. Slowly rotate lower gear shift rod counterclockwise to avoid cutting the shift rod seal and unthread it from the shift cam. 8. Remove the nut and lockwasher inside the gearcase, then separate the lower and upper gearcase housings. Remove and discard the gasket. 9. Remove the propeller shaft assembly from the lower gearcase. Slide reverse gear and thrust washer off propeller shaft. 10. Remove the pinion gear from the .g 11. Remove the shift cam &tent spring and slide cam from gearalse slot. 12. Remove forward gear with thrust bearing ilnd race from gearcase bore. 13. Remove the propeller shaft clutch shift pin. Slide the clutch against the spring and insert a 1/8 in. pin punch through the propeller shaft clutch slot. 14. Secure propeller shaft in a vise with protective jaws or wrap in shop cloths. Ddw spring pin from clutch with a suitable driff, See Figure 34. Remove clutch dog from propeller shaft. 15. Thread a 5/16 in. lag m into thr, upper gearcase shift rod seal. M a 1t4in. diameter rod from the other side and drive screw and seal from housing. 16. Pry drive shaft seal h m upper 7 housing.

%JB

U U l T E R NINE

~HCCC QURCASI
1. w8mrhlb. LRnpDavrrom bWarpupboq 4.[Mrrharrl rkp**r

(4.4.1~nr)
aa.hwmrdo..,nd

buhOurnb)r
%.nwuerrahr
as.s.Qlehph

a. mckpbw

7.Rh.dNnrrl

aRma. in#lrdrh.pk

= . s a . aubh 7 =Me m. PmQ8uuRop**r.h.n

~~op*lrpln 41. Thnmt*ruh.r

1RUpprrMnmd ll.&mWWimloclr#kn l&Lo*rr8hwIrod ia.Lo*rmmdd 14. h L o * 1s. &mW

aRmcw0.umd

4a.rumo-d
u w 46.47. mpr*r

bU ) . Lp

ir m#nwrrl*r

a o r .( l R p hl u

17. pL1 18. Uppr1. ~mmnmmas m 20. Qmmnmga8k.I 21. 8.u bumg m. Cmndmmrprlnp 2 am

b ~ a. coawph

Mshnto.ncMch

=.m*

=w--

2. w p L 1 7

a m

=. m

=-prcu a*. R o p l r . k . R m m a
=.Roplr-bumg
40
U

Ill?
5'11 .1

aaddiscardbearinecage0-w finnn bearing age with a suitable

t e lips of a new drive sbatt h compound. Instan seal in

WAP'IER NINE
1

21. R0p.lkr.h.n 1. M m w ~ ~ t k l W I M 1 LmPrcn*

22.

RoP.Ik.h.nlllMmd

8. hlrr.htt

23. Roll pin 24. CIuWh

m.r. 4nh I. pm ll d 5. W . t r a k . m i 6. W..hn 7.upp.rwa~rtuk 8. Rop.kr 0. Rop.kr811( 10. cuuw pln 11. R O ~ J ~ U nu(& 1 h0PldMdrh.M %
1. mg 4 a .

26. Foc*Nlcl g u t and b..rinp.unn#r 26. L0mrp.Ut.u n.a m a n p l ~ 26. P b g W d w a.Our.Mlt~pk

S. o

ai. ~ a .tud #
sZ~locr*1.ha S~.W.HUIWI % U.Omm .
=ULRHa,gur.nd

Orno

40. Snout M.imr 41. Exh.urt .nout 42. 8c(m 49.(krk.t 44. Uppro-=46. 8hlflrOdlorm~Nl 48. wmmrW.147. upP.rdrbn.3unbOWlW 48.Dlrcn.hm.ul 49. 8.ck p l m 61. W., * punp body m. ~ ~ p . u l W.Lanrntw(ub. 64. Pump #n* 66. h w m d a m ahWl md 66. W . ( . r ~ u l w u k n 5. w d m c 7

la. ~ ~ ~ ~ . o c l u t c g i b . *
r*-.h.n.ul
a0 - 1 TbRlrSs
*RPmpJ*r.hnb.lbwW 17. w o u # . r l

b. i p .rn -

3s. Ls*rrrhMmd

w. 7 . m

S . ~wulllmmddn O

SO, ~ d m u n , ~
5s. I

m.RopJln,sImnw

a ~lo~aud .

n i

CASE
olt threads with RTV
te the bearing cage O r n seal -ig

e bearing cage on the propeller and press into the gearcase. Install and fully rotate lower shift rod through

seal and thread into the shift cam.

37. Install the water pump as described in this chapter. 38. Fill the gearcase with reammendedtype and quantity of lubrimt. Sos CB%pttX F w . 39. Pressure test the gearwe w ct q! g in !s ig I this chapter. 40. Install the gearcase as desm&d in this chapter. 41. Check gearease lubricant level atbr engine has been run. Change the lubricant afkr 10 h o w of operation (break-in period). See Chapter Four.

1. Remove the gearcase as -bed in this ca . hm 2. Seeurethegearcaseinaholding~er a vise with protective jaws. If protdve are not available, position the gwzaw u p m t with tbe skeg between woodm blocks. 3, Remove the water Dump as describadlio - this chapter. 4. Remove the 2 screw holding the b&a# a g e assembly to the lower gearcase. .5. Install flywheel puller (part No. T 89484l)i as shown in Figure 37 and remove bearipe' cage assembly. 6. Remove the nut in the lower gaarcc\se housing and the nut on the upper housing stud. Separate he houshgs (F@e' 38). 7. m o v e the pinion gear,bearing and apsambly (F%rue 3) 9. 8. Remove the propeller

..

II

10. Use a pencil-type

*$lra
12. Oben the vise iaws about 1/2 in. Position propelier shaft a$ clutch assembly on shop cloths as shown in Figure 41. Clutch pin hole should rest over opening in vise jaws. Drive ih clutch pin out w t a suitable punch. Remove spring pin, clutch, shift pin and spring. 13. Unscrew and remove the gear shift rod. 14. Remove the gearcase pivot screw &om outside the lower gearcase housing. Discard the O-ring. Remove the gear shift arm from the housing. IS. Assemble specid tool part No. T 8964 as shown in Figure 42 and press drive shaft bearing and seal &om upper gean'ase housing. 16. Use a slide hammer with a hooked end to remove the shift rod seal. See Figure 43. 17. If the forward gear bearing is to be replaced, remove the bearing cup with cup remover part No. T 8921 and bearing guide st part No. T 8918 as shown in Figwe 44. e 18. Remove and d i d the bearing cage O-ring. 19. Pad the vise with shop cloths and rap bearing cage against it to remove the bearing.

20. Pry the bearing cage seal out w t a ih screwdriver. Discard the seal. 21. Clean and inspect all parts asdaaibed in this chapter. 22. Press a new drive shaft bearing in the upper gearcase housing with special tool part No. T 8962 or a mandrel. See Figure 45. 23. Coat the lips of a new drive shaft bearing seal with anti-seize compound and install (mbber side facing up) with a drift. 24. Install a new shift rod seal (raised bead facing up) until seal edge is flush with bore surface. 25. If fonvard gear bearing cup was removed, press a new cup in lower gearcase housing with cup installer part No. T 8904, driver handle part No. T 8907 and guide plate from bearing guide set part No. T 8918. See Fjgure
46.

26. Install a new bearing cage seal with installer part No. T 3431. Garter spring should face outward. Lubricate seal lips w t ih anti-seize compound.

27. I s a l a new cage bearing. Tap gently on ntl the outer bearing race to seat it fully. 28. Lubricate a new O-ring with anti-seize compound and install on the bearing cage. 29. Isalshift arm (fork ends facing down) ntl ia lower geararse housing. Install the geamse pivot screw with a new O-ring. 3 . Installtheshiftrodintheshiftarm. 0 31. Install the propeller shaft rear thrust washer. Position clutch dog and shift pin on shaft. Align pin holes in clutch dog and shaft and i s a l thespringpin. SceFljpmCn. ntl 32. Install revgpat to propeller shaft. 33. Chat the shia pin lgoove with anti-& compound and install shift yoke in groove. Lubricate the shaft b U and install in propeller sha& 3 . ? w e thrust washer, forWard gecu and 4 boaring assembiy on propeller shaft. 35. Install propeller shaft assembly in lower garme. Yoke pins must engage sit a m hf r

slots

F;

36. Install a new seal in the lower guuu?ase housing groove. Fit upper and lower housings together. Install Install and lockwashers and tighten to speciliatiom (Table 1). 37. ~otate propeller shaft u t l the shaft the ni W k e s straight up. Position the slot in the b~cagebearinginnerracef~straight ' u p Slide baring rage onto propeus shaft and engage shaft ball with bearing dot. Push bearing cage M y into housing bore. $38. Wipethebaariagcagesmmthreadswith mti& compound. Install tighten to

after 10 hours of operation (break-in period). See Chapter Four.

gkarcase as described in this

lubricant level after

Refer to FIgsre 48 (55-60 hp) or Figwe 49 (70-85 hp) for this procedure. 1. Remove the gearcase as described i this n chsm. 2. Secure the gearcase in a holding fixture or a vise with protective jaws. If protective jaws are not available, position the gearcasG upright with the skeg between wooden blocks. 3. Remove the water pump as described in this chapter.

CHAPTER NINE

2-PIECE QEARCASE (70-86 HP)

I

2 -1 e1 -1

14

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Lowrrw8tubIbo

ern
w8tu

body Cr8nluk.n @In. m mt8Inor l ~mp.llu Back pbt8 Wator pump gnh.1 &n -I

21. 12. 23. 24. 2s. 26. 27. 28. 20.

11. W8tu pump . I #

30. 40. 41. ~a-r 42 - U M contor m d 49. M f I col~phr 44. OWMW kOnt #ud 46. -1 46. QC O UU I ~UOI 67. 3. Qnr8hlnmnpln 0 48. 31. Sod 19. 3 2 L o w r r g ~ ~ ~ 8 ~ 60. ~~.PI~IO~PW#IIIUI 61. W. 62. 63. S P l n b gur 8nd .

L o r n g88r 8hln md pln Cott.r pln Lowwgoar8hlnmd

Bp.E.n aaar n n pin

a&

~~

16. 8881

3 . B d n g wp 6

b..m..mbly

37. 08ue8u m r rtud 3 1 F m d goar and 1. bating a8nmbly

8-12
I

e-4

Q-se es -o

1-58

R d pin ~mp.~w #ban Propollor pln ROWSO g u r burlng R.VOMO 0.v I)urlng -W -tin0 dl* h r l n g wgo m l ~ r o p r)un -I ~ u Bndng u . g Rop**r M 4 nut m I . . M. PmWw nut W. Cot*rph 67. h8odr.1 wp rcnw 68. H 0 X a p B U . W W. W8t.r tub. bNCk.1 60. upP.r W8W WbO W l 61. w.1.c tub. -mot 6 2 W8tu(uk 63. D I I v o ~ ~ ~ ~ e4.lImp.U.r d* koy 65. w w w. * bon I 87. E*klu8t MOM W. wa8hn m. HoxrocL.1wp.onrr 70. W8W lnhl . t ~ . n 71. Onout m8 tl w s7 72. T h ~ 8w88Ror l

'1 I

move the 2 screws holding the bearing mbly to the lower gearcase. flywheel puller (part No. T 8948-1) F i 37 and remove bearing -Remove the nut in the lower ousing and the nut on the upper hpusing stud. separate the housings -85 hp-Remove the 3 upper gearcase mts holding the lower gearcase housing rate the housings. hp-Unscrew and remove the hf m the sitarm. Remove the shift pin and O-ring. Discard the O-ring.

7B. 70-85 hp-Remove shift arm pin and Orn. - i gDiscard the O-ring. Lf gear shift rod it with coupler from housing. Unscrew c0gk.r from s i t rod. hf 8. Remove the propeller shaft assembly from the lower gearcase housing (Figure 50). 9. Remove shift yoke and spacer from front of propeller shaft. 10. Remove forward gear and bearing assembly from propeller shaft. 11. Open the vise jaws about 1/2 in. Position propeller shaft and clutch assembly on shop cloths with clutch pin hole resting over opening between vise jaws. Drive clutch pin out with a punch. See Figure 51. Remove shift pin and clutch from shaft. 12. Remove reverse gear and bearing from propeller shaft with an arbor press. 13. Wrap drive shaft with shop cloths and secure in a vise with protective jaws. a. 55-60 hp-Remove the screw and washer holding the pinion gearharing assembly to the drive shaft. Discard the screw. Remove the gear, bearing and cup. b. 70-85 hp-Remove the retaining nut and washer holding the pinion gearhearing assembly to the drive shaft. Discard the nut. Remove the gear and bearing. If cup requires removal, use tool part No. T 8919. 14. Remove the drive shaft and seal from the upper gearcase housing with an arbor press. 15. If upper drive shaft bearing reqdm replacement, remove bearing snap ring (70-85 hp only) and press bearing off shaR 16. Thread a 5/16 in. lag screw into the shift rod seal. Insert a 1/4 in. diameter rod from the other end and press the seal and oro ow from the gearcase. See F i e 52.
NOTE Replace the f o d gaar, cup as a set.

.. ,-&

r 1.
R

requim rcp&ent, remove the bearingC$J with cup remover part No. T 8921 (55-60 hp) or part No. T 2995 (70-85 hp) and bearing guide plate part No. T 8918 as shown in pieme 53. 18. If upper drive shaft bearing is to be replaced, remove bearing cup from upper gearcase housing with a punch. 19A. 55-60 hp-Remove and discard the bearing cage O r n . - i g Drive bearing cage seal out with an appropriate punch.

17. If forward gear and bearing assembly

c. Secure the drive shaft horizontally in a vise with protective jaws. If protective jaws are not available, wrap drive shaft
in shop cloths. d. Hold the pinion s r w with a ce screwdriver and rotate gearcase t o tighten s r w until it just starts to b i d ce See Figwe 54. e. Position a drift against the pinion gear screw. Tap screw twice to seat the pinion and drive shaft bearhy properly. See Figure 55.

19B. 70-85 hp-Remove bearing cup from bearing cage with a slide hammer and tool part No. T 8917. Remove and retain the shims under the cup. Remove and discard the bearing cage O-ring. Pnss seal out w t ih *removerpart No. T 8914. 20. Qean and &spa%all as described in t i chapter. hs 2 1. If forward gear bearingcup was removed, press a new cup in l w r gearcase housing oe with cup hWkw part No. T 8904, driver handle part No. T 8907 and guide plate from bearing guide set part No. T 8918. See Figure 46. 22. If upper drive shaft bearing cup was removed, install a new cup with its larger diameter facing up. Tap lightly around the cup edges with a punch and h d m e r u t l it ni is fully seated. 23. Ifupper drive shaft bearing w s removed, a install a new bearing with an arbor press. Install a new snap ring on 70-85 hp models. 24. 55-60 hp-Install pinion gear to drive shaft as follows: a. Coat drive shaft internal threads and splines with sealant primer. Apply Loctite D to threads of a new pinion gear screw. b. Install drive shaft in upper gearcase housing. Slide pinion gear and bearing assembly on drive shaft spline. Install washer and pinion gear screw finger-tight.

c. Tighten pinion gear nut to specifications (Table 1).

Install drive shaft in upper gearwe housing. Slide pinion gear and bearing
I

assembly on drive shaft spline. Install washer and a new pinion gear nut

Secure the drive shaft horizontally in a v s with protective jaws. If protective ie jaws are not available, wrap drive shaft

26. Slide a new drive shaft seal over @ &ive shaft (spring side up) and install with tool pert No. T 8985 until it seats in the born. 27. Wipe outer diameter of a new strift rod seal with Loctite H. Position seal with raked bend facing upward and install in gearcase cavity until it bottoms on the bore. 28. Shim the pinion gear as d e s c r i i in this 29. Check the propeller shaft end float as described in this chapter. 30. Insert the gear shift arm in the lower gearcase housing. Install the gear shift arm pin with a new O-ring. 3 1. Thread the shift rod into the shift ann. 32. Install the front gear and bearing assembly in the lower gearcase. 33. Install the propeller shaft assembly. 34. Install a new bearing cage seal with an installer. Garter spring should face toward 35. Install a new bearing cage O r n and -ig lubricate with Rykon No. 2EP grease. 36. I s a l bearing cage in gearcase bore. ntl Wipe screw threads with RTV sealant. Install screws and tighten to spedcations (Table 1). 37. Install a new seal in the lower gearcase housing groove. Fit upper and lower housings together. Install fasteners and tighten to specifications (Table 1). 38. Install the water pump as described in

and quantity of lubricant. See Chapter Four. 40. Pressure test the gearcase as described in 41. Install the gearcase as described ia

42. Check gearcase

after 10 hours of See Chapter Four.

CHAPTER NINE

"@
1. Cilpscm 2 W.M tub8 bmclr.1 3. Upper w m tuba so81 4. Wsmr tuba v n u t 6. W.M tuba 0. c.P 8emw 7 Wamher . 8. eUdng caga bon &ling 8. Plupem ahan ml 10. 11. m r p o a l 12. haring spool ml IS. Rop.lk nut 14. 16. 16. 17. 18. IS.

I-PIECE aEARCASE ( 9 1 4 0 HP)

Rop.lk nut pin Blop nut Pkln wmhw m m washer Rop.llu Rop.lln np8e.r 25. 26. 27. 28. 28.

ShM pln
Roll pin Clutoh F o m r d pur t)vwt d F m r d pur 8nd l m d q awwnbly
U

1 . Danv 0
21. Zlm mod. 22. RwH.. g ~and r . u by N n l 23. Rotmining rlng 24. ehfl

mw 0-m

barn

30. llnrinO C P U 31. BIUGU.plug 32 W r ahiH u m pin

99. 8.81

3 . Plnlon nut 4

,/

2 @.
I
I

e-3
$-4
5

3. P L l n g w r 5 P no 36. Snout nWmc 37. Hex aock.1 cap acmw 3 . E.h.ud snout 8 39. C p s c m . 40. Spring loclmsher 41. Cap . r , n * 42. W ~ W . 43. Plug wa* 44. e O a r C 8 ~ plug 45. shin wupk 48. Lover shin rod 47. Cottar pin 48. Lown lMIt md pin 49. M n g M. crush ring 51. O-ring 52 &an I 53. W m w c o w 64. Swing hkw8lk.r 55. c8p .cm 56. wn md . i M 57. Wahr pump gmaitm 58. 68ck - . 1 58. hnpdk 60. water pump body 61. cap .om 6 2 b . ( l n g disc 63. Cap .cn*r 84. Water pump m i 6s. om WOW m ruba i w. LOUMI LOINV~ hating ahan 67. Shim 68. ilnpslk clriw key 68. Driw shaft 70. Cmnkmlu(1.pllne -81 mm l 71. hiYe *an .pllns ml 72. W..h.r n shin yoke .

<

il

;,

II I
11

' ' Refer to Figure 56 for tbb MW.'

># :

1. Remove the gearme a s ~ b s b h t & chapter. , ... 2. Secure the gearcase in a suitable hcM& fixture or a vise with protec&ive jaws.- ll pf0twti.njaws an not available, @tion gearcase upright with the akeg butma wooden blocks. 3. Remove the water pump as ip Ulis chapter. 4. Remove the spline seal and retainer @ the end of the drive S I U. 5 Remove the screws and bckw&m . holdingthegeatcasecover. W u p w a t d a cover and move back and forth until it comsc free of the gamme. Remove cover f o d&m rm
, )

~~

shaft,
6. Remove the crush @ from the gearcsae bore. 7. Invert the gearcase wver and m a w t&m t Q-ring Seats (A, Fllpue 57). Pry the driw shaft seal fromthe cover bore (B,FIgae 5) 7. 8. Thrcead a 5/16 in. lag screw h t h e &i# rod seaL Ineert a 114 in. dhmeterxodfnmD the other end and press the seal and .&om the gearcase. See Figure 52. 9. Rotate 1 0 shift rod m-locd and unscrew fiwn shift a m coupler.R m r a 6 theshiftrod. 1 . Remove the 2 mews holding the 4' 0 toth53propeUershaftspool.See~~ Remove the anode. 11. Remove the 4 screws and holding the propeller shaft beafiae 12.

Instau flywheal puller

9.

8948-1)as shown m F @ e
into gear and rotate drive amthread itself from the b i n g the spool 13. Remove and

the spool with a suitable pin punch. See Figure 61. 14. Remove the 2 retaining rings in the gearcase bore. 15. Reinstall shaft spool (without 0-I%& and secure with 2 screws. Repeat Step 12 and puller will remove t e shaa spool and bearing h
Cage.

26. Remove the shims i s a l d betwew. tho ntle bearing and the gearcase bore. 27. Reach into gearcase bore and remove the forward gear and bearing assembly. 28. Remove the shift arm pin and 0-riag from the gearcase. Discard the O-ring, Remove the gear shift a m wupler. r
NOTE Replaca the &ward gear, bearing and cup as a set.

16. Remove revase gear from the propeller shafi. 17. Withdraw the propeller shaft from the gearcase housing. Remove the spacer from the propeller shaft. Remove the yoke from the shift pin. 18. Open the vise jaws about 1/2 in. Position propeller shaft and clutch assembly on shop cloths with clutch pin hole positioned over the opening in the v s jaws. Drive spring pin ie out with a punch. Remove clutch and shift pin from shaft. 19. Install spline adapter (part No. T 7848), socket and 5ex handle on drive shaft splines. ih 20. Hold pinion nut w t a 314 in. socket and 5ex handle. Pad that part of the gearcase where the 5cx handle will hit with shop cloths to prevent housing damage. 21. Holding the pinion nut from moving, break the nut loose by t r i gthe drive shaft. unn Remove pinion nut and drive shaft adapter ' wrenches. 22. Holding pinion nut with one hand, rotate drive shaft with the other and unscrew it from the nut. Remove the nut. 23. Secure drive shaft in a vise with protective jaws or wooden blocks, clamping as close as possible to the gearcase. 24. Pull gearcase toward you to remove any drive shaft play, then place a wooden block against the drive shaA wunterbom area and rap block sharply with a hammer until the housing wmes off the drive shaft. 25. Remove geacase from drive shaft Upper drive shafi bearing should remain on t e drive shaft. h

29.If

forward

gear

bearing

req*

replacemat, remove the bearing CUP with cup remover part No. T 11207 and bearing

guide plate part No. T 11209 as shown in Figure 62. 30. If lower gearcase drive shaft bearing requim replacement, remove the bearing with remover part No. T 11205 and bearing guide plate part No. T 11209 as shown in Figure 63. 31. Clean and inspect all parts as described in this chapter. 32. If forward gear bearing cup was removed, position gearcase as shown in Figure 64 and install a new bearing cup w t installer part ih No. T 1 1204, driver handle T 8907 and guide plate part No. T 1 1209. 33. Shim the pinion gear as *bed in this chapter. 34. Check the propeller shaft end float as described in this chapter. 35. Insert the s i t a m coupler in the lower hf r gearcase housing. Install the shift a m pin r with a new O-ring. 36. I s a l the shift yoke and thrust washer ntl on the propeller shaft assembly. Insert shaft

35%

CHAPlER NINE

zmxmbly in gearwe bore and engage yoke with shift coupler anns. 37. I s a l the retaining rings in the gearcase ntl

bore groove.
38. Install new prop shaft spool 0-xings. Note that the smaller ring goes on the front of the spool and the larger ring goes on the rear. Light coat O-rings with Rykon No. 2EP
39. I s a l prop shaft spool in gRarcase bore ntl until O r n stouch their counterborn. Install -ig spool bolts with new r i n g s and hand-tighten, then torque to spdtications (Table 1). 40. Install anode on gearcase. Wipe anode m e w thmds w t Loctite D. Install and ih tighten SCIeWS to speCific8ti0~ (Table 1). 41. Coat drive shaft splines with anti-seize compound and install a new spline seal and retainer. 42. Install new gtarcase cover O r n sand -ig seal. Fit cover over drive shaft and position on gearcase. Wipe screw threads with RTV sealant. Install screws finger-tight. 43. Install water pump as described in this chapter. 44. Fl gearcase with recommended type il and quantity of lubricant. See Chapter Four. 45. Ressure test the gearmse as -bed in this chapter. 46. Install the gearcase as described in this chapter. 47. Check gearcase lubricant level after engine has been run. Change the lubricant after 10 hours of o p e d o n (break-in period). See Chapter Four.
grease.

discard all O r n s gaskets -ig, and seals. Qean all gasket or RTV sealant residue f o mating surfaces. rm 4. Check drive shaft splines for wear or
3. Remove and

AND
1. Clean all parts insolvent. Blow dry with compressed air, if available. 2. Clean all nut and screw t m d las thoroughly if RTV sealant or Loctite has bsen used. Soak nuts and sc~ews solvent in and use a h e wire brush to remove residue.

damage. If gearcase has struck a submerged object, the drive shaft and propeller shaft may suffer severe damage. Replace drive shaft as required and check crankshaft splines for similar wear or damage. 5. Check propeller shaft splines and thmds for wear, nut or corrosion damage. Replace shaftasnecessary. 6. Install V-blocks under the drive shaft bearinn surfam at each end of the shaft. slowl; rotate the shaft while watching the crankshaft end. Replace the shaft if any signs of wobble are noted. 7. Repeat Step 6 with the propeller shaft. Also check the shaft surfaces where oil seal lips make contact. Replace the shaft as required. 8. Check the propeller shaft bearing cage or spool and needle bearing for wear or damage.

c. Check clutch for cracks at shear ~ h t (Figure 66) and rounded anas that contact forward gear clutch dogs Replace as required. d. Check shift pin and cam for wear. See Figure 67 (typical) for wear paints. Excessive wear on shift cam crests can let the engine drop out of gear. Replace as required. 12. Clean all roller bearings with solvent and lubricate with Chrysler/U.S. Marine Gear Lube to prevent rusting- Check all bearings for rust, corrosion, Bat spots or excessive wear. Replace as required. 13. Check the forward, reverse and pinion gears for wear or damage. If teeth an pitted, chipped, broken or excessively worn, replace the gear. Check pinion gear splines for excessive wear or damage. Replace as required. 14. Check the propeller for nicks, cracks or damaged blades. Minor nicks can be removed with a file, taking care to retain the shape of the propeller. Replace any propeller with bent, cracked or badly chipped blades. or spool contact points
PINION GEAR SHIMMING AND PROPELLER END FLOAT

k all shift components for wear or k for excessive wear on the clutch dog and fbrwardlrmnw gear engagemat surhces. If clutch dogs are pitted, chipped, broken or excessively worn, replace the &s) and clutch dog. b. Measure the clutch spring free length (Figme 65) and rl on a flat surface to ol check s r i h n s . If spring is not 2 tagtes 7/16 in. in length or if it does not roll Ereely, replace the spring.

The pinion gear must be c o m t l y shimmed or the gears will not engage properly. If the clearance is not within spedicatioas, excessive or hufEcient, gear and bedng wear will occur, leading to premature failure. Always check propeller shaft end float once shimming is correct.
5540 hp (1967-1,979)

1. Install thrust washer, revenre.. gear beaand propeller propeller shaft. 2. With installer part No. T 8 shaft, insert assembly in a.

a,..

raoe and pffss componarts

bearing bottoms out. checking p g part Na. T 8924-1 u

7. st the dial indicator gauge to zero* thm e grasp the gear on each side and snap it

upward with a quick, even preamue. ! e 3e Figure 70. Do not rotate gear duringthis step. 8. Note the indicator read@ then allow thb . Attach m l part He. T W81 an t e n t h 2 ~ ~ k e t h e a d gear aimnbly to drop back down. The indicator should mtum to o zero reading. No. T 8982A in the 9. RepeatStep7andStep8tomheckthe b6n at hebottom of the &=king giiage and imiaU the propeller %haft.See Figme 69. readhg. A reading of 0.004-0.006 in. indicat&s that the gear is cormsly shimmad. 4. Insm bearing cige with 2 10. To d e e *e amout of s h m (RPrt No. T 898s). TWtm 0.095 in. the dial mket heaa scram to 25 h l b . while mtating M e rtading. As pn arample, suppost spacers80~WiU~eatevenly.

reqw

5. IaW a dial indimor a8 &ma ia Figure 69.Indicator machined endsurfaeeef&M 6.Dcp-~Wtomtthegeat ~ ~ ~ d t o g l l pNo. T 8982. a r t

theWiaBicaktrreadinginStap7wasO.012 in. s u m 0.m~in. fmm the leavws a r3i&mnce o O.QO7 in.; this is the f thickness of the required ahira pack 11. oncetheghimpacktl&&ne98hasbeen

established, remove the dial indicator,

:-

i t,
. -

CHAPTEU NINE

&kodeteminethenquiredthrustwa~her twmes, wtbtraot 0.005 in. from tbe dial

iadiEeaorRadingandiuldtbe~to tbthic~ofthethnudwaJha~ As an example, suppose the dial hdidm R?ading in step 21 was 0.011 in. Sybteactias 0.005 in. fmm the resldiag b y e i s a cliffbnce of 0.006 in. Add this 0.06 in. to the O 6 in. M t h i c k n ~ ~ ~ h thrpst wa&r odgwly of t e ~ T h e w r m o f t B e e e 2 ~ @ ~ 2 in.)istheraquimdth&wask~ 2 . Remove the dial iadkxw'rcnd h?!mb& 3 cage from the p t o arbaty'bon. ~ 24. Remove tbc pPQpeller shea aclsembly. ExchaagG the 0856 in. thmst washer
oaiginollyinstaltdrplthhonebstep22.

25. Reiartall the forward gear and inse-rtthe propeller shaft assembly into the ~earcatse bore. InstgJlbearing cage O r n and continue -ig gemwe assembly as deadbed m this chaptg.

7 Install a dial indicator as shown in Figure . 74. Indicator plunger must rest on machined surface of reverse gear. 8.Depressreversegeartoassungaod contact with dial indicator plunger. 9. Set the dial indicator gauge to zero, then grasp the bearing cage and gear on each side and snap it upward with a quick, even pressure. Do not r t t gear during this step. oae 10. N t the indicator reading, then allow oe the bearhg cage and gear assembly to drop ~-bcarine~propdla#-marborprese. I f a ~ i s n o t ~ Q i v e back down. The indicator should return to a sttaftktaller@artNo.T8920)andbssriag zero reading. inetPlhg@artNo.T8906)canbc~Set 11. R p a Step 9 and Step 1 to recheck the eet 0 reding. The clearance required for proper 73. 3. Installtheclutchdogandahiftpinonthe gear mesh is 0.0040.006 ia; the 6nal pmpe&rshaRSammplacewiththe indicator reading must fall witbin this range. 12. To d e t e m k the amount of shimmhg 4. ~ t h e b d n g c u p i n ~ e a g t w i t h required, subtract 0.005 in. from the dial &Wks pat Ma T 8910 and drive handle indicator teading. As an example, suppose the dial indicator reading in Step 9 was 0.024 jp&e part No. T 8924-1 in. S u m 0.005 i. from t e reading n h leaves a difhmce of 0.019 k this is the , *propdler*-~ thickness of the nquired shim pack. 13. Once the shim pack thickness has been B~1cJ~tigbtanoalgeocraws~ established, remove the dial indicator and bearing c g from the checking gauge. ae

Indicator plunge^ must rest oa

surbxofesbaft.

NOTE Donet~firbcr~Mademoro
than1/4imJRStq6.

L:

6. labpsro a 0.035 in. or thicks fiat fiwla ~ 2 i k d s ~ t h e ~ a f t h c ~

~ d ~ shimRlinn phtg. a n ~ o u t c a ~ d t h e

8.~tkeaff.rs0ishimpsckthichis

t:

detcwine$w*-plugaad c d e d r i ~ o h a f t ~ l r s d t r y r~s ~ l ~ ~ t h e ~ w l ! e . 10. %II & 19-25 d a---haarlfsbrx65-14 b (Oneg a u g c L r a n o v G d a ~ i s ~ I f

7.Haldiasf!der8p11oebplsae,~

~gau$edoesaot~ovlaaasi$orifit pk~)inthischaptgtoramov~tha ~ o m out too easily, repat S& 6 with e ~ ~gmfeaddrishatt. 1 1 . ~ t e e a a a s t e r ~ f r o l a t h t ditPaart~thicbllcssGs\mtiitheaoprsca ~htstnnthcshimpaokddeamiaadm eneis&ktemmd 0 . W h e n ~ ~ d e d e sts, 8. ~ ~ r ~ 12 ~ S e a p 2 a n d S t q , 3 t o ~ t h e detewined, wMnetO.OBJin.~daMnce gear. W a new ~ f r o m t b e b l drive &a& lraB ~ ~ ~ aedrhginthaddwahnft~horeand ohis6gunfbm;tlre~oS*arsster ~ ~ i n ~ 1 . T h c m s r t i t iuseanewpiaionl~sgtnut. s ~ s b i D n p s c k t h i c k D a n s r t q ~ t o y p o v l & ~ 13. ] t o s t p 1 1 t b s ; ~ ~ a o d B b i f t p i n o n t h c %nnlc?kammanecarrarg.Asao~ ~ ~ S t C U E m p l a e t w i t h t h c ~ t B e E k d e a ~ ~ i s m 9 i n . -Pis 14. haall a 0.054 in. tbntst washer m tbe iwiidqfthe dtaneoe of 0.805 in. lcmesO.O24in.~Q.~~iasubrraettd~ g s a r l a s p c . ~alre~laatersbirslthicknwglofO.058h, ls.~~~~bclariagccy~egp with R n Ma 2 and auwaMy beating * 1Qe gEBBlf is 0.026 k, ti is ia required hs

pea^^

cage,spacp9,~~=-lptarss

21. SetthedialindicatortommdplO&pp sharplyonthepropelletsbaft.~'rtms

indicator reachg. Repeat this Jtap time8 to make s u r e t h e ~ i ~ The required end flat is 0.009-0.011 in. If theindi~~torleadinginthisstepfslLswithin
theendtbatiscornct. Ifitdoes not, pehrm Step 22. 22. To determine the required t r s washer hut t h i h e s , subtract 0.010 in. from the dial ilKliCatormadingandddthenmaindato thethicknessofthethrustwashainstalled. As an example, suppose the dial indicator reading in S e 21 was 0.029 in. Subtractirrg tp 0.0 10 in. f o the nading leaves a diffemce rm of 0.019 in. Add this 0.019 in. to the 0.054 in. thickness of the thrust washer originally installed. The sum of these 2 figures (0.073 in.) is the requid thrust washer tbickms. 23. Remove the dial indicator, pmpekr
this-

shafts~oo1~riwandpropellershaft assembly from the gwuce~e bore.

CAUTION 'MltkcsuretkBcaringmgospaculioPs b n a now au ofplace in Sep 16. If it aar* rrmow the propdler s w d y OndrPparition thespoarrto Brnw-grmnuedmnagr. t

24. Exchange the 0.054 in. thrust washer originally installed with the one determined in Step 22. shaft assembly, 25. Reinstall the propeb~ a and propeller shaft spool in the .26. Install b e .cage O-ring and continue p r c a s e assembly as demibed in this
chapter.
gearcaae.

propeller s i d l assembly inthe

rrtginiag ring pow will be

seatthe2retahhgrinpBin
gauoaaa.rnstalldtisBtcnthe

so that the phmger

susfacsontheend

to =move all forward gear

Whenever a gtarcase is overhauled, it should be pressuret s e after rcfillineit witb etd IubricautIfthegeatcascfailsthe~ test, it must be disiwembled and the of the problem located h6;, to perform a pressu~e v q nsultsandrunninga thetestwillresultinmaj . .P I. Remove the vent dug housing

2 Thread pressure tester adapter (part No. T 8950) into vent hole. Tighten adapter securely. 3 . P u m p t h e p m s u r e t o lopsiandnote gauge for 5 minutes. If pressure does not hold, submerge the gearcase in water and represmiix to 1 psi. Check for the presence 0 of air bubbles to indicate the source of the
leak. 4. If the source ofa pressure leak caanot be demmined vimdly, disllssemble the gamatm and locate it.
ZINC ANODE

MOTOR LEG

Some gearcases are fittd with a sacrificial zinc allov anode to reduce aalvanic wrrosion. On s&e models, the &ode is a &dic lr ac u ra cover installed over the propeller shaft spool ( F i 58). On other gearcases, the exhaust snout ( F i 77) is the saficial anode. The anode should not be painted, as this destroys its protective value. Check an anode periodically for erosion. If badly eroded, it should be replaced and the source of the
MOTOR LEG

MOTOR LEG

located and c o if possible. may be caused by faulty wih&the in a boat moored nearby, as well as

GEAR SHIFT

4. Mark the shift rod a the point shown in Fisme 795. Make a third mark at a point midway between those made in Stsp 2 and Step 4. See Figure 80. 6. Movetheshiftleveruntilthemarkmade

motor into FORWARD. The should travel downward as far shiftrodatthepointshmin

inStep5isflushwiththetopofthsmstorleg. The interlock lever arm 00MsctPd to the uppershiftrodshould~wiOhtlpelower tower shaft as shown in Rlgnre. 81. 7. If the interlock l v r a m and ee shaft do not align properly, loosen the 2
ontheuppershiftrod.Alignthe~wk

uld travel upward ss k @ it will

leverarmandtowershaftaad~[fonUlc stop nuts to hold the mecbaaign in

alignment.

8. Chaek the neutral interlock wi&h (FIIBPr 83). The button on the switch b u l d be

~withtheshiftleverinMKITRAL. If it is not, repodtion the switch.

1. Remove the starboard support plate. 2. Remove and discard the wtter pin f o rm the gear shift pin. Remove the gear shift pin. 3. Shift the motor into FORWARD. The lower shift r d should travel downwad as far o as it will go. 4. Loosen the locknut under the shift rcd coupler. Adjust coupler until the shift pin hole is 1.38 in. (35 mm) above the steering arm. See F i 83. 5. Reinstall the gear shift pin and secure with a new cotter pin. 6. Shift the motor into NEUTRAL. Check the position of the shift a m It should be r. centered on the neutml interlock s i c .See wth Figure 84. If it is not, loosen the shift arble connector locknut and adjust the connector @ required, then tighten the locknut. 7. Disconnect the shift a m link fWB tki~ r

CHAPTER NINE
connector until it aligns with the shift a m r pin. See Figure 85. blades and pump housing is pumped up to the power head tbrough the water tube. The offset center of the pump housing causes the impeller vanes to flex during rotation. At low speeds, the pump acts as a displacement w, at high speeds, water resistanoe forms the vanes to flex inward and the pump becomes a centrifugal type. See Flgwe 86. Al seals and gaskets should be replaced l whenever the water pump is removed. Since

1. Make sure the shift rod coupling is centered on the shift rodr Each rod should thread into the coupling at least 1/4 in. (6.35 mm). If coupling position is not wmct,

k
v

loosen the coupling locknut. 2A. Electric start models-Move the shift lever slowly toward forwcud gear while rotating the propeller manually until you hear the clutch dogs eagaging finward w. Mark this position on the shift lever opposite the center of the interlock switch button. 2B. Manual start models-Place shift lever roller in NEUTRAL position. Mark the cylinder drain cover at the top of the shift lever apex for reference purposes, then move the shift lever slowly toward forward gear while rotating the propeller manually until you fed the clutch dogs engaging the gear. 3. Reoeat S t e ~ ar Sm 2B while &ifking 2A t toward REVERSE to locate the start of m r e gear engagement. es 4. Move the shift lever back to NEUTRAL. If the distance between the FORWARD and REVERSE marks is not eaual. adiust the shift rod coupling until fo&'adi reverse gear travel-@equal, then tighten the locknut. WATER PUMP The outboards covered in this manual use a valume-type water pump on top of the gear The pump body impeller on small is secured to the drive shaft by a pin into the driv3 shaft and a similar ,in the impeller hub. On larger a drive shaft key engages a k t on h f t and a cutout in the impeller drive shaft rotates, the impeller it, Water between the impeller

Bsm,d Pnd IlmmnMy (197&1977 3.6 hp) Although this eugine watercooled motor h
3.5 h) p.

--#

3.:

I&&

rp .m

1 ~sln~~~thesiagtenuthakihgthc~ .

pumpbadytothefrotlt~smd ' " 2 ~rythepumpbodylooae.GIideitrtpnmd . offthedriveshaft.Removetheimm&15iblg

.I

*m=Pbody. 3 . ~ t h e i a S B e a g ~ ~ p i n B g l e ~ '

driasbaR 4 Remove the pump back plate h . tld gearcaae. 5. Lubricate the pump body bon wit& Rykon No. 2 ! grease. EP
6.~0heimpellerinthapumpImdy with a rotatbgmndon ''

~~

7. Illataubackplatetobaaeofg~rmp~,

~bgc)rIdnteWwithpllmp~
8. Inscatimpellrrdtivepinindriveshrttk 9. l n s t a n p n r n ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ p l a t e ~ t

driveshaffanddidedowataQIwpaa pQnih. 10. Rotate drive shaft until drive pin dqi i a t o i m ~ d o t . ~ p u m

mu==-

. l l . ~ ~ S h K l n u t 6 D g e r ~ 12. Inscat a 1/4-20 bolt through thc geaRxie mounting hole. Align gearcPlc pump body holes. 13. T g t n stud nut t spe&hhw ihe o

1)and remove alignment bolt.

l t e m n l m d ~ (198o.aa 3 3 hpg 4 hp 1 9 7 9 4

$.' wj:f
."Jo

4
i

<

LR'U

Refer t Flpm 87 fbr o 1. S a a r a c t h e m i n aviseWithpmtd~

are mt avoilPble, tlpdsM m the vim with,

w o o d c n ~

2. Remove the spring pin holding the shift coupler to the shift rod. Remove the shift coupler. 3. Remove the water pump plate from the P U P body. 4. Pull upward on the drive shaft and remove it from the gearcase with impeller attached. 5. Slide impeller from drive shaft and remove impeller drive pin. 6. Remove the extension stud holding the pump body to the gearcase. 7. Carefidly pry pump body free and remove from gearcase. 8. Remove and discard the gearcase O r n -ig underneath the pump body.
Removal and Disessembly (4.9 and 5 hp) 1. Secure the gearcase in a holding fixture or a vise with protective jaws. If protective jaws are not available, position the gearcase upright in the vise with the skeg between wooden blocks. 2. Remove the screw on each side of the anti-cavitation plate. Separate the gear housing from the plate. 3. Remove the impeller drive pin from the drive daft. Slide water pump $ate from drive shaft. 4. Remove the impeller from the anti-cavitation plate. 5. Pry water tube seal from anti-cavitation plate with a small screwdriver. Removal and Disassembly (Two-piece Gerucase) Refer to F$pm 88 f*or this procedure. 1. Seewe the gearcase in a holding fixture or PWk. with protective jaws. If protective jaws available, position the gearcase i the vise with the skeg between n P k d blacks. 8w m
WATER PUMP (1@60-OW 3.5 HPr l@rcE.oW 4 HP)
1. Phk

rimp*lu a pump body 4. w* bk 5. Sllntfodmdorplplup 6. 7. urt.ndon OM, nut and lockwulm

-w

2. Remove the water tube from the pump body. 3. Remove the screws holding the pump body to the gearcase. Slide the pump body up and off the drive shaft. 4. Remove the impeller drive key from the drive shaft flat. 5. CarefLlly pry the back plate and gasket from the gearcase housing. Remove the back plate and discard the gasket. 6. Remove the impeller tiom the pump body. Remowl and Msrssembly (One-piece Cenrenee) Refer to Figure 89 for this procedure. 1. Secure the gearcase in a holding fixture or a vise with protective jaws. If protective jaws

WTAE PUMP

are not available, position the gearcaae

upright in the vise with the skeg between wooden blocks. 2. Remove the water tube from the pump body. 3. Remove the screws and lockwashers holding the pump body to the gearcaae cover. CarcfuUy pry the pump body loose and slide it off the drive shaft @@re 90). 4. Remove the impeller key from the drive shaft &it. 5. Carefully pry water pump plate and gasket (if used) from gearcase cover. Discard the gasket.
NOTE It is not necessary to m o w the gearcase covet for water pump service.

6. Remove impeller from pump body.

kt

WdInepeetioll When removing seals from impdla

housing, note and record the direction h which the lip of each sa faces, far prclgyr el
rehtaktiion.

1. Removetheshiftroddfbmt&&mtnp '"" " . body, if so equipped.

FhnnO .O1(O1 (0.26

mm)

Asembly a d Inatahtion (49 rad S hp)

1. To assemble, coat water tube bore in anticavitation plate with a water-mshmt adhesive. Inatall a new seal in the bore until itslargehgemtsagainsttheplate. 2. Install the water pump impeller in the anti-cavitation plate w t slot in hub facine ih m=a=. 3. Position water pump plate on drive shaft with rounded hole b i n g pump impeller. 4. Install impeller drive pin in drive shaft hole. Slide anticavitation plate down drive shatt and align impeller slot with drive shaft

pin.

5. Position rounded end of water pump plate toward the front of the gearcase and isal ntl anti-cavitation plate screws.

Refer to F i 88 (2-piacegearcase) or Figure 89 (1-piece garcase) for t i hs procedure. 1. Support the water pump body and insert thecenbxingdiscinthepumpbodydbare. 2. Lubricate the lips of a new drive sbatt s a el with Ciuysler/U.S. Marine Gear Lube. Inatdl 2-piece gearcase seal with spring side up. Install 1-piece gearcase seal with its mejaa seating lip facing up. Drive seal in plaaG with an installer until the seal bottoms out. 9CR Figure 93.

If the original impeIIer is to be reused

install it in the same rotational direction as removed to m i d premature failure. The drive pin groove should be visible and the curl of the bI&s positioned as shown in Figme
94.

CAUTION

3. Install the impella in the water pump

body. 4. Install a new back plate gasket (if used), then install the back plate on the gearcase cover. Make sure the back plate holes aligu with the gearcase cover holes. 5. Slide the water pump body down the drive shaft Align the impeller slot with the drive shaftllat. Install impeller key on drive shaft slot and seat pump body.
CAUlION Correct housing f i e n e r torque is important in Slop 6. Excessive t q r t e can musr the pump to crack ckairy opproion; im&cienI torque mey result in levlkage and exhaust indvdioll which will cause owhwling.

it' L ..

6. ~ipepumpbodysnewthm&&kbt~ sealant. Install screws with

tightentospecificatio~ls(T.Ual). P A F . . ? 7. ~nstallthewatatubeinthewrpa&.

Bearing cage rcmwr (4.4-8 hp) Drive .haft nut Gearcaw, cover acmwa Lower gearcam-to-upper geartam Upper geartam-to-motor leg 36-4 hp 2065 hp 1-yece geartam 2 - p i m gearcna Standard toqw vsluea (rcnw or nut size) 532 8-32 10-24 10-32 12-24 1/4-20 SH518 3/8-10

Uaa rmndard tomue values If amclflc fmetener la not lia1.d.

Chapter Ten

Automatic Rewind Starters

I 3.5-35 hp m u a l start (and 20-30 bp 6 start) models am equipped with a epmted rewind starter. On models with & ! @ fuel tank, the starter assanbly is Bted on the power head and attached to i*a tank. M d l without an ioes n fhel

tank may have the starter b r a c k e t - m d to the front of the power head or mounted in a housing above the flywheel. Pulling the rope handle causes the starter spindleorspoolshafttorotateagaiustsjwhg tension, moving the drive pawl or pinion to en~tagethe flywheel and t r the m un & over. When the qmhg inside the ofthespindkorspool rope mund the pulley or spooL A starter interlock ktun is m d l without an integral fw oes prevents 0perat.h of the

unlesstheshiftleverisin
position. Automatic rewind trouble-free, with a broken or most common
coversrewindstarterand

ENGINE COVW Thisstartertypeisu~ an integral fw tank. 9tt removed).

376

CHAPTER TEN

1. Disconnect the spark plug lead to prevent the engine from accidentally starting. 2. P y retainer from starter rope handle. r Remove the rope from retainer and pull the rope through the engine cover hole, then tie a large slip knot in the rope to prevent it from winding into the starter. 3. Remove the fuel tank cap. Remove the upper engine cover. Reinstall the cap on the fuel tank. 4. Remove the 4 nuts and lockwashers holding the starter to the fuel tank (Figure 2). 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Pull starter rope to engage friction shoe plates against starter cup before t g t n n the nuts. iheig
scsrter Bope/aeWhd

Spin# Replacement WARNING Disassembling #hi8 starter mechanism mW2thciut holding the spring in place can result in the spring unwinding violently and can cause senenous personal injury. Wear s@ety glosses and gloves during this procedure.

1. Invert the starter cover housing on a Bat

surface.
f'

2. Remove the screw and washer holding the friction shoe assembly (Figure 3). 3. Remove the 2 shoe plates, the brake cover and 2 s p m the conical brake spring, washer and bearing. 4. Untie the slip knot in the rope and let pulley unwind slowly. 5 If the spring is good but the rope needs k repkmmt, carefully lift one edge of the p&y, iasert a thin saewdriver blade under it and dkmgage the spring loop from the pulley dt Remove the pulley and rope. o. 9 If the spring nquires replacement, place . &irks a s m b l y on the floor (right side up) on the top of the cover spring will drop out and unwind

978

(XAFTER TEN

Starter Pinion Gear and Rewind S p h g RemovaVInstallation

1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 3. Remove the starter spool p p screw located on top of the starter spnng rewind drive in the spool shaft. 4. Install rewind key part No. T 2985 (1968-1978) or part No. T 3139-1 (1979-on) in place of the screw removed in Step 3. 5. Hold the rewind key to prevent the starter spring from unwinding abruptly and remove the pinion gear pin. U e the rewind key to let s the rewind spring unwind slowly, then remove the key, pinion spring and pinion gear from the spool daft. Remove the rewind Wve from the key. 6. Remove the rewind spring guide post, &and retainer from the spool. 7. Lightly lubricate the inner and outer of the rewind spring and the inner

,*

diameter and groove of pinion gear with Rykon No. 2EP grease. 8. Install pinion spring in pinion gear groove. 9. Place pinion gear on spool shaft with spring loop over the starter bracket boss. 10. Fit spring retainer in open end of spring until only the retainer prongs protrude and spring loop is anchored to retainer base. 11. Insert guide post in spring. Install spring ut drive (taped end fs) until spring loop engages the drive notch. See Figure 9.

CHAPTJ3R TEN
12. Install spring assembly in spool shaft. Align spring retainer notch with pin in lower starter bracket. 13. Install rewind key part No. T 2985 (1968-1978) or part No. T 3139-1 (1979-on) in tapped hole of starter spring arbor. 14. Align pin slot in gear with pin holes in spool shaft and spring arbor. Insert pinion gear pin through gear slot and partially into spool shaft and arbor pin holes. Hold end of pinion pin and tighten rewind key on end of arbor. 15. Remove the pin and turn the rope spool to remove all slack. Turn rewind key counterclockwise until spring tension starts to be felt. At this point, continue rewinding the spring wunterclockwise another 3 1/2-4 turns (1968-1978) or 7 1/2-8 turns (1979-011). 16. Align gear slot and pin holes. Insert pin partially as in Step 14. Hold end of pin and remove rewind key. I s a l pin completely ntl and center in gear to make equal wntact on both sides of the gear drive groove. 17. Install cap screw to retain pin. 18. Install the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 19. Install the engine cover. 8. Unwind the rope from the spool. Remove the screw holding the rope to the spool. Remove the rope. 9. Install the end of a new rope through the spool hole and pull it through until about 3/16 in. of the end is exposed in the spool. Install and tighten the screw. 10. Wind the rope wunterclockwise (as seen from the top of the spool) around the spool grooves. 11. Lightly lubricate the base of the spool with Rykon No. 2EP grease. Install spool in base of lower bracket. 12. Route the rope to the starboard side of the interlock shaft and through the support plate grommet. 13. Install the rope in the handle retainer. Install retainer in handle. 14. Reinstall interlock shaft if removed from lower bracket. 15. Lightly lubricate the upper end of starter spool with Rykon No. 2EP grease. 16. Attach rope guide to upper bracket. Fit bracket over starter spool and interlock shaft bearing, guiding end of rope guide into lower bracket hole. Install and tighten bracket screws. 17. Install the neutral interlock link. 18. Install the starter spring and pinion gear as d d b e d in this chapter.

Starter Spool and Rope

remove the rope from the retainer. 3. Cfrasp the rope from the inside support

holding the neutral

s ~ e w sholding the upper starter spool and

Interlock Adjustment

engagement with flywheel when starter tape is pulled. 8. If interlock does not function as described in Step 6 and Step 7, repeat adjustment procedure. SPOOL STARTER

le. Pull up on starter spool shaft to nd play. See Figure 10. interlock lever screw and adjust to provide 0.020 in. clearance of pinion gear flange and bottom diameter of pinion gear 11. Tighten lever screw. o FORWARD and then starter rope is pulled, interlock should pinion gear down to prevent engagement ould clear pinion gear flange and allow

This starter is bracket-mounted to the power head. The starter rope is wound around a spring-loaded spool. A pinion gear at the top of the spool (Figure 7) engages the flywheel when the rope is pulled. A neutral interlock bracket and link coll~lectedto the pinion gear prevent the engine from being started in gear. Figure 12 shows the starter components. Starter Pinion Gear and Rewind Spring

Removal/lnstaUation 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the flywheel. See Chapter Eight.
3. Hold a punch against the pinion gear pin and remove the sarter spring arbor screw. 4. Push pinion gear pin half-way out of the gear. 5. Install rewind key part No. T 2985 in place of the screw removed in Step 3. 6. Hold the rewind key to prevent the starter spring from unwinding abruptly and remove the pinion gear pin. Use the rewind key to let the rewind spring unwind slowly, then remove the key and starter spring arbor fioIfl the spool shaft. Remove the key fiom the arbor. 7. Remove the pinion gear and slide pinion spring off the gear. 8. Remove the rewind spring, spring and spring end from the spool. 9. Lightly lubricate the inner cutd diameter of the rewind spring and tha
- 4

382

CHAPTER TEN

SPOOL STARTER ( S l HP) @.S

Cap .cm Pinion g u r Pinlon lpring Uppw bmckd Stud Wa.h.r StarIar interlock Stop IW 8. st.rt.r spring arbor 10. pinion gear p b 11. &mw 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 16. 20. 21. 22.

Rewind aprlng Rewind mpring mhlmr Rewind nprlng end st.rl.r apwl LOWWbmoCd LOW bmclul w i n g pin Starter mp. Rop. h n d k ~andh mtolnw Interlock d M n t ball InWdoek dotmi nprlw

UTOMATlC REWIND STARTERS

17. Align gear slot and pin holes. Insert pin partially as in Step 15. Hold end of pin and remove rewind key. Install pin completely and center in gear to make equal contact on both sides of the gear drive groove. 18. Install cap s r w to retain pin. ce 19. Install the flywheel. See Chapter Eight. 20. Install the engine cover.

meter and groove of pinion gear with kon No. 2EP grease. , Insert arbor shaft in rewind spring. Shaf? mve should catch the spring end. Install arbor/spring assembly in spool & Align spring end notch with pin in uer starter bracket. Install pinion spring in pinion gear

. .

mve. , Place pinion gear on spool shaft with

ring loop protruding through the $tarter wket slot. Install rewind key part No. T 2985 in pped hole of rewind spring arbor. Align pin slot in gear with pin holes in 001 shaft and spring arbor. Insert pinion ar pin through gear slot and partially into ool shaft and arbor pin holes. Hold end of won pin and tighten rewind key on end of

br b.

i. Remove the pin and turn the rope spool remove all slack. T r rewind key un
mterclockwise. until spring tension starts to !felt. At this point, continue rewinding the aing counterclockwise another 3 1/24
P a

Starter Spool and Rope Removalmtion 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Pry the rope handle retainer Eree and remove the rope from the retainer. 3. Remove the pinion gear and rewind spring as described in this chapter. 4. Remove the stop nut, washer and 2 O-rings holding the interlock connecting link to the gear shift shaft lever. See F i 13. 5. Remove the upper bracket screws. Remove the upper bracket and interlock assembly. 6. Hold the bracket end upright and remove the stop nut. Remove the interlock, 2 w s e s interlock link, 2 detent balls and 2 ahr, springs from the bracket. 7. Remove the starter spool from the power head. 8. Unwind and remove the rope from the spool. 9. Install the end of a new rope through the spool hole and pull it through until about 3/16 in. of the end is exposed in the spool. Install and tighten the screw. 10. Wind the rope counterclochk (as from the top of the spool) around the spool grooves. 11. Lightly lubricate the spool bore w i Rykon No. 2EP grease. Install spool in io bracket. 12. Route the rope around the rope ~ e y the manifold and through the suppart ph grommet. -

wt
f

CHAPTER TEN
13. Install the rope in the handle retainer. Install retainer in handle. 14. Position upper bracket on spool shaft. Install assembly and tighten screws securely. 15. Reassemble and install interloCk assembly to braoket. Connect interlock link to s i t lever (Fjgure 13). hf 16. Install the starter spring and pinion gear as &bed in this chapter. 17. Check the neutral interlock operation. If the interlock does not prevent starting in gear, disconnect the gear shift lever and shift rod. Rotate shift rod connector on rod as requind. Reconnect rod to lever md reGheck interlock. Repeat this step until interlock functions
correctly.

around a spriag-loadd spool. A phi011 gear at the top of the spod Otipionre 14) engages the flywheel when the mpe is pulled. A neutral iuterkk device and interlock rod c o n n d to the gear shift Iever prevent the engine from being otarted in gear. Whan the engine i in NEUTRAL, the rod -a s slot in the &mlooL @o allow the starter to function. If the engine is in gear, the rod cannot eagage the interlock slot. 15 shows the starter components.

SPOOL STARTER
(35 hp)

T i starter is bracket-mounted to the hs power head. The starter rope is wound

1. Wcrmave the engine cover. 2. Remove the flywhd. Sea Ghapter Eight, 3. Remove the starter spa01 cap scnw located on top of the starter spring rewind drive in the spool shaft. 4. Install rewind key part No. T 3139-1 in place of the screw removed in Step 2. 5. Hold the rewind key to prevent the starter spring from unwinding a b ~ p t l y remove and

1. Cap . r un 2 Plnlon geer 3. Plnlon gmr pin 4. Plnlon d m

7. 8. Rmind e. spmg ~ I I W 10. S t a ~ a p o o l 11. u w w n g b cr e p u#mbly n lw a 12. stud 13. Spdng lodwaahor 14. Hex nut IS. ~ d n a&aion g

~ r n

w w

IS. 17. IS. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27.

Hex nut Int.rlock rod Pkln washer InteWk w n w Internal tooth lockwaahor Interlock llnk Ball lolnt with bearlng Unk Ratelnor extension Roll pin Rope puld. Erternal kd lockwasher a.Starter m p 28. Rope handb 30. Handle retainer

3. s
&e. pinion gear pin. Use the rewind key to let

R TEN

the rewind spring unwind slowly, then

remove the key. 6. Grasp the end of the starter pinion spring with needlenose pliers and remove from the base of the pinion gear. See Figure 16. 7. Ry the retainer from the starter handle. Remove the rope from the retainer. 8. Remove the tie wrap holding the shorting switch lead to the starter rope guide. 9. Remove the screw and lockwasher holding the rope guide to the racket. Push guide end from retainer extension. See 17. 10. Mark bracket caps for reinstallation reference and remove the remaining screws. Remove bracket caps and spool assembly ( l p e ') T g r 11. 11. Remove the rewind spring assembly from the spool. If spring replacement is quired, refer to Figure 18: a. Remove spring pin holding extension to retainer. b. Remove retainer from spring. c. Remove guide post and Jpring drive from spring. 12. Unwind and remove rope from spool. 13. Insert the free end of a new rope through the spool bore and pull rope through spool until it seats on the spool. Wind the rope onto the spool counterclockwise. See l%pw19.

ElEWIND S T

to reeainer with spring pin. 8ee Rgwm.l%~ld IS. Install rewind spring - $ b in
spool.
NOTE There should be a least 0.06 & t .I
&~bweentheropeHan$ spml edge when installed in St@ 16, Ckrlgwy bad & as as-rea to establish this deczmm.

8.

,&

.. guideintoextensionandinatallmmruamg

16. PoBitiOn -1 - y M ori 'brackst, ~hWapmd3rmInserttopd

bracketsaw.SeeFfOaFe 17. 17. Position shorting switch wire t guidb o and iastall a tie wrap to hold it in pkw. IS. PuU the rope throllghthesuppoRplp&, grommd , I9.Installtheroptinthehademtab~% Install reCaiaer in handle, 20. W t l y lubricate the inner and OW&! diameter of the rewind spring and t h e b a g

,:-

,,

Rykon No. 2EP grease. 21. Install pinion gear on spool shaft. .22. Install pinion spring in groove and push i t place with no spring e d o n . 23. Install mind key pnrt No, T 29(0. , tapped hole of rmhd spring drive. 24. A U g u p h s l o t m g e a r ~ p h p l shaff and spring drive.

arbor.
to m o v e all s a k Tura lo.

26. Align gear slot and pin holes. I s r pin net partiaUy as in Step 24. Hold end of pin and remove rewind key. Install pin completely and center in gear to make equal contact on both sides of the gear drive groove. 27. Install cap screw to retain pin. 28. Install the Bywheel. Sec Chapter Eight. 29. Check the neutral interlock operation. I f the interlock does not prevent starting in gear, adjust the interlock device and interlock rod ( F i i 15)as rwW. 30. Install the engine cover.

around a spring-loaded pulley. A pawl plate attached to the pulley (Figure 21) engages the flywheel when the rope is pulled. A neutral interlock lever at the front of the starter housing prevents the engine from being started in gear. Figure 22 shows the starter components.

1. Remove the engine cover. 2. JXwonnect the spark plug wires to prevent

FL.YWHEEl MOUNTED STARTER This starter is mounted in a housing on top of the power head. The starter rope is wound

accidental starhg of the engine. 3. Electric start-Remove ignition component bracket. 4. Remove 3 screws and lockwashers holding starter housing to power head ( F i i e 23).

AUTOMATIC REWIND STARTERS

389

FLYWHEEL MOUNTED STARTER

1. C r p ~ W 2. staltm hw.ing 3. Hamlng Hn8r

I). Punlay 7. h* op I). S(uhrmp8 8. staltm collar 10. R y w h d nul 11. ScmW

12. Pulley m l h m 13. Shim 14. Pawl phb numbly IS. 8cmw wnh oprtng lachaahor 10. llcwlng amp 17. Spring 18. Roll pin 18. ItlWrkck h w 20. W.8h.r

5. Lift starter housing and tilt to the starboard side utl interlock lever clears the ni flywheel, then remove the housing from the power head. 6. htallation is the reverse of removal. P l ul starter rope to engage the pawl assembly with the wlr before tightening t e screws. la h
SQrter Rope Replrwment

WARNING
Disassembling this starter mechanism without holding the spring in place can result in the spring unwinding violently and can cause serious personal injury. Wear s & t y glasses and gloves during this procedure.

1. Remove the 3 screws and retainer holding the pawl plate to the starter housing. ! e Se Figure 24. 2. Remove the wwl plate, spring and shims (if used). 3. Hold the pulley to prevent it from unwinding and remove the starter rope handle. 4. Depress the interlock lever to move it out of the way and let the rewind spring slowly wind up the starter rope. 5. Rotate the pulley in each w o n to make sure that all spring tension is gone. 6. With interlock lever depressed, carefully, lift pulley and s i e a thin blade screwdriver ld under it to disengage the spring, then remove the pulley and rope assembly from the housing. 7. Grasp the rope knot with needlenose pliers and remove the rope from the pulleL. 8. Tie a knot in one end of a new rope and melt the end of the rope with a match to fuse the strands. I s r the other end of the rope net through the hole between the pulley &anges. 9. Wrap the rope around the pulley in a counterclockwise direction. Route the rope through the pulley slot. Leave about 9 inches laandingh m the slot.

REWIND STARTERS
NOTE S h i m are used to eliminate excessive up-and-down play in starter assembly. If play is present but no shims were removed during disassembly, obtain the proper shim(s)from your Chrysler/U.S. Marine dealer before reassembling the housing.

14. Reinstall the shims (if used) and install the retainer. Tighten the 3 screws securely. 15. Install the starter assembly as described in this chapter. 16. Check the neutral interlock operation. If the interlock does not prevent starting in gear, adjust the interlock device and interlock rod (Figure 27) as required.

Rewind Spring Replacement

WARNING Disassembling this starter mechanism without holding the spring in place can result in the spring unwinding violently and can cause serious personal injury. Wear sqfety glasses and gloves during this procedure.

the pulley in t e housing with the h ve positioned at about the 9 o'clock d the rope outlet boss at about the See Figure 25. pulley 1 314 tums Hold pulley in that n and install rope handle. the pawl plate spring over the h its ends facing upward and towards the gap between the pawl

the pawl plate. Pawl lever side pulley with slots over the ends of pawl plate spring. See F i e 26.

1. Remove the starter pulley and rope as described in this chapter. 2. Place starter assembly on the floor (right side up) and gently tap on the top of the cover housing The spring will drop out and unwind inside the housing. Remove the cover and discard the spring. 3. I s a lnew spring (with retainer) in starter ntl housing. Outer spring loop should fit over spring retaining boss. When properly installed, the spring will run c o u n t e d o c ~ from the retaining boss. 4. Isal the starter pulley and rope as ntl described in this chapter. 5. Check the neutral interlock operation. If the interlock does not prevent start&^ itlgear, adjust the interlock device and hteriock rod (Figme 27) as

d
6. Install the engine cover. Interlock Lever Replacement

CHAFTER TEN
solid surface and drive out the roll pin holding the interlock lever with a suitable &n punch. Remove the old interlock lever and spring. Insert a new spring or lever as required in the housing cutout. Seam interlock lever in place with a new roll pin.

If the interlock lever or spring requires replacement, remove the starter housing as descxibed in this chapter. Invert housing on a

Chapter Eleven

Power Trim and Tilt and Remote Control Systems

POWER TRIM AND TILT The usual method of r i i g and lowering asn the outboard gearcam is a mechanical one, c o s s i h g of a scdw of holes in the t m m m mounting btodcet. To t a b the engine, an adjustment stud is removed &om the bracket, the outboard is repositioned aad the stud reinsertad in the proper set of hsles to 6 the unit in place. A power trim and tilt system is available as standard equipment on 3- and m d e r models. It is also offered as an optin on some 2-cylinder models. The use of power ' ti rm and tilt provides l a d & control whether the boat is underway or at rest. Thb chapter includes mi an, troubleshooting p m d u m and pump and w t i l t cylinder replapement.
Components he power trim and tilt system consists & hydraulic pump (containing an motor, oil resCnrair, oil pump body), a hydraulic ti c y W , rm tilt cylinder, shock absorber a control switch, sender eacesPary hydrplllic

CXUFlXR ELEVEN
Moving the trim switch to DOWN also closes the pump motor circuit. The reversible motor runs in the opposite direction, driving the oil pump to force oil to the rod end of the ti and tilt cylinders. The weight of the rm outboard causes the tilt cylinder to retract fust. As the outboard lowers, it contacts the trim cylinder rod and both cylinders continue retracting until they are fully collapsed. If the switch is not released when the engine reaches the limit of its downward travel, the pump motor will continue filnning and cause the oil to foam. Figare 4 shows the operational sequence.

'Moving the trim switch to LIFT closes the pump motor circuit. The motor drives the oil pump, forcing oil into the base of the trim aml tilt cylinders. The larger trim cylinder diameter produces more force and the ti rm cylinder extends fust. Once it has fully extended, the tilt cylinder starts its upward travel. When it reaches its highest position, the drive motor stalls. If the trim switch is not m1m.d at this time, a the& nlay opens to shut off power to the motor. F i 3 shows the operational sequence.

P o w r up (out)

TRIM AND TILT

e power tilt will temporarily maintain e at any angle within its range to ow water operation at slow speed, beaching or trailering. vent damage from striking an object, spring-loaded check tilt cylinder and hydraulic pump the outboard to pivot upward quickly

3#S
1. Clean area around pump 6U plqp Sea Figure 5. Remove the plug and visually obsck the fluid level in the pump reservoir. It should be at the bottom of the fill hole threadg
CAUTION Do not ovet$ll reservoir in Step 2. Excessive oil will be forced into the motor and cause a premature failure.

2. Top up if necessary with a non-detengent SAE 30 engine oil.

d Check e outboard should be N l y retracted for

3. Cycle the outboard up and down 3-5 times to bleed out any air in the hydraulic lines. 4. Install and tighten fill plug.

3%

cHAPTl%RELEVEN

Whenever a problem develops in the power

ti s s e ,the initial step is to determine rm y t m

whether the problem is in the electrical or hydraulic system. If the problem appears to be in the hydraulic system, refer it to a dealer or quali!ied specialist for necessary senrice. U e the following procedure to determine s whether the problem is in the electric or hydraulic system. 1. Make sure the switch and pump cable plug-in connectors (Figure 6) are properly engaged. 2. Make sure the red power trim switch lead is connected to the positive battery terminal and the black pump lead to the negative battery terminal. 3. Check all terminals and wires for signs of corrosion or loose connections. Clean and tighten as required. 4. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Charge or replace as required. 5. Check the fluid level as &bed in ti hs chapter. Top off if necessary.

Engine will not ncmain in

trim or tilt position

1. Check the hydraulic pump oil level as described in this chapter. Top up hs required. 2. JXsconnect the lower hydraulic trim cylinder line at the pump. See Figure 7. 3. Connect a 0-2,000 psi pressure gauge to the trim cylinder fitting. Cap or plug the disconnected line. See Figure 8. 4. Operate the trim switch and lift the engine with the tilt cylinder. The pressure gauge should read over 1,000 psi: a. If the pressure remains over 1,000 psi, continue testing b. If the pressure starts to decrease, there is a leak either in the tilt cylinder or the valve body/pump assembly. 5. m o v e the prea~uregauge and reconnect the rrim cyiinderr line at the pump.

6. If leakage is noted in Step 4, operate the tilt switch and raise the engine to the fidl tilt position. Let the motor stall out, then tap the switch downward once to relieve pump pressure. Remove the tilt cylinder for overhaul. 7. Recheck the pump reservoir oil level as described in this chapter. Top up if necessary. 8. Disconnect the lower hydraulic tilt cylinder line at the pump. See Figure 9. 9. Connect a 0-2,000 psi pressure gauge to the tilt cylinder fitting. Cap or plug the disconnected line. See F i 10. 10. Operate the trim switch and lift the engine with the trim cylinder. The pressure gauge should indicate pressure: a. If the pressure gauge continues to indicate pressure, continue testing. b. If the pressure starts to decrease, there is a leak in the trim cylinder or the valve body/pump assembly.

~ l u t e messure gauge and h~ mmwat the tilt cyl&der line atthe pump. is noted in Step 10, operate the a raise the engine to the fl tilt W tilt @n o, Let the motor stall out, then tap the wrrltch downward once to relieve pump pmsw. Remove the trim cylinder for owrhaul 12. Repeat Step 7. If the unit still does not function propurly, m o v e the pump asse~x~bly overhaul for

1. Checkthebattery.Rechqeorrephcear required. 2. Remove the teIm switch and check for et continuity with a self-powered t s lamp. There should be amthity between the center and tap fmmimh with the switch in the UP positian BlCd amdnuiity between the otm center and b t o tanninals with the switch in theDOWEJpaWm. Replacetheswitch as required. > 3. ~ M e o t t h e ~ h s r a e a s a n d c h e c k for continuity with a sdf-powed test lamp. R e p a i r o r ~ a s ~ . 4. Remove the pamp assembly Ear M e r testing by a dealer or qdlW marine spaeialist. !

1:

1. clean m r pump rn plug. See ut d Pigwe 5. m o v e plus &ompamg. 2. Cycletheoutboardaplumd~3-5timas to blad out any air in the h$t&o lines. 3. Installandtighten$plup.

I,

5* L o e t the baXtaty cable and black % mc

ptrmp~&tthencgativebntteryterminat

2. Disconnect the battery cable and red trim switch lead at the positive battery terminal. 3. Disconnect the trim switch and pump sockets in the wiring harness. See Figure 6. 4. Place shop rags underneath the pump hydraulic line fittings. 5. Disconnect al 4 hydraulic lines at the l pump. See Figure 11. 6. Disconnect the hose ftig at the top of itn the pump. See Figure 12. 7. Remove the 3 bolts holding the pump to the stern bracket. See Figure 13. Remove the Pump. 8. Installation is the reverse of removal. Fii the pump reservoir with nondetergmt SAE 30 engine oil as described in this chapter.
Trim and Tilt Cylinder Housing Assembly Removal/Installation 1. Raise the outboard until the upper shaft clears the se brackets. See Figure 14 (pump tm shown removed). 2. Suspend a rope around the gearcase and attach it to a hoist or other solid object to provide support. 3. Hold the lower shaft stop nut on one side with a suitable wrench and loosen the stop nut on the other side of the shaft. Remove both stop nuts.

4. Repeatstep 3torernov(ttheuppershaft stop nuts and washers. 5. Place a jack under the housing

assembly or have an help support it whila you tap the upper and bm9hafts out. 6. Remove the cykdw hwsing assembly from the stem bra&&
The tilt cyIin&r @&RAoek absorber can be r e & fioin the housing assembly. Tk t@n cy[inder i an s integralpdir qf* homing h e .

Ncms

7. DiscanSLeot t$Q &&adic hes at the tilt cykda. Rsmm,thskilt cylinder and shock abmba cylhbr housing assembly. 8. hmtaWio11 i tlw mm of removal. s e e

RefertoF&nm15forthis~ure. 1. l b w w ths scrrsdrr unit from the stern

braolrc4, 2. Rahe and support the engine at the No. 4

lockbarpdtiQa 3. Adjust tho m t i o m e t e r until the dash gauge indieam the No. 4 position. 4. ReinstaU t e a i o unit on the stern h-mtr
bracket. 5. Check the zmda unit a m , for free operation.
4. Remove the 2 screws holding the throttle

REMO'IX CONTROL Remote control k %andad cm 3- and 4-cyhder engin@ d fPLOg %cylinder models. It is c m & d ~n asgst other 2-cytinder engines of 6 hp a abannc. @
1. Disconnect the negative battery M e . 2. Remove the 3 screws holding t m t . b oe control unit. Remove the unit. 3. From the back of the unit, rermne the cotter pin holding the throttle cable terminal.

cable clamp to the swivel. h n n e c t the cable. 5. Remove the clutch cable terminal cotter pin. 6. Remove the 2 screws holding the junction board to the remote control unit housing. See F i i 16. 7 Disconnect the shift cable. . 8. InstaUation i s the reverse of removal. Disassembly Refer to Figure 17 for this procedure. 1. Remove the hex bolt and lockwasher holding the throttle arm to the control unit housing.

7. If handle requires remow& remove the collar, felt washer and h d h t ~ rtape. CareNly pry cap from top of 8cmdle. 8. Remove snap r n holding swhd to ig housing.

(3

& Remove the hex bolt and lockwasher Balding the clutch a m to the control unit r
$ Remove the 2 screws holding the retaining
@te to the housing.
WARNING
'

and Inspection 1. Wash all metal parts in solvent and blow dry with compressed air. 2. Check clutch and throttle gears and shaft for wear or damage. 3. Check detent springs. 4. Check throttle and clutch arms for wear or damage. 5. Discard the felt washer. 6. Check plastic parts and housing for chips or cracks.

Detent ball and spring are under lension. Cover the throtrle gear assembly with shop cloths to prevent them from frying out unexpectedly and possibly 'causings e r i m personal

e throttle gear assembly wi)h shop remove the aetscmv holdmg the control handle to the throttle gear
WARNING Detent ball and spring are under tension. Cover the clutch gear assembly with shop cloths to prevent them from frying out unexpectedly and possibly causing serious personal injury.

the 2 bowed washer, gear, de.tent ball and spring from the
clutch bearing, gear and shaft from then remove the detent ball and

Assembly 1. Fit cap on handle, then place collar with indicator and a new felt washer on the handle. 2. Insert handle assembly in housing. 3. Drop one bearing in the housing throttle gear shaft bore. 4. Install the throttle gear, bowed washer and the second bearing in the housing. See Figum 18. 5. Install and tighten handle setscrew to hold handle to gear assembly. 6. Install clutch shaft, gear and bearing in housing. See Figure 19. 7. Install clutch detent ball and spring (smaller one) in slot ( F i e 19). 8. Install throttle detent ball and spring in slot. 9. Install retaining plate over throttle and clutch gear assembly. See Figure 20. 10. Install swivel and fasten with snap ring. 11. Install clutch and throttle arms (Figwe 21).

Index

BW t
rra\prvaed~mtme6a6ir rtarr motors odd. 136131 ~insenmionirr.lumipma kale "......................w........ 2ta mrtqp 1 213 .* iadiIupWi011 219-212 Ck&ing 4648.213514 tump 214-213 ,.., . , 212-214 BucQybmkerpoiotboillon

..........

.......... ................... ............... .............-.. --. ......... . ................................

...........................243-2W r6pbcmaDi ...... ........................ , 246 DWWW -m.. a44 wh ooil .. , ...... 244-245 tn ,, .. , .. ~~~ ............................... ",". 243 -ipillon..yarrm "".... .... S & W ".".... ..-.....,.*..,. , S&QD
=d

laa*rrrptM~voV inWbtioD aalm*mdewh@w

............... ..,.... 60 ".." .......................... 69 B.tlq rUpjrs ........................... .......213 eteale L.rllia$Lr ........................ , llh319 Brsltsr plate ..,................ ".,......2u.m B m h *t ......,...,...,. -'... 242. 244 .,
lslprc tea
W," .

Cail t t aQpCgDd a

"

INDEX
~bkrllandaanLease

.................. 313-319 + I S k m 3.5 hp, 1976011 4 hp 313-314 4.415 hp ................................. 314-316 All XI, 25 and 30 hp; 1976-oa 35 hp .................... 315-316 1966-1975 35 hp; all45 and 50 hp; 1967-1976 55 bp ............... 316-317 1977-on 55 hp; all 60 and 65 hp .................................... 317-318 70-140 hp ................................ 318-319
12

Cylinder h a d bolt Ioque.................

g
8

Delta and Motomla Magnspowu I (1974-1979) CD ignition (19800m) . . a m test ................................ 61-65 Motorola elCCMnic distributor test ............................................ 64-65 Delta and Motomla Magnspower ignition mil teat ..................... 65 ; Delta CD module ...................... 245-246 Delta ignition circuit tea .............. 61-65 Delta ignition mil .............................. 246 Detonation ......................................... 100 Diode (rectifier) ................................. 237 Distributor ........................................ 244 Dishibutor brwlrer points 129-130 Distributor CD ignition Bmker point nplncement 245 Delta CD module m o v r V insIaUation 245-246 Delta ignition coil nmovaV instaUation 246 Disnibutor r e m o v a V M t i o n 245 Motorola CD module ............ 246-247 Mototola ignition mil ............ 247-248 Operation 245 Distributor test, M o m l a electronic ..................................... 64-65 Dynamic t i m i ................................. I75

.........

........

........... ........................... ..................................

..

.......................................

Engine synchmnuabon and l i w adjustments Engine timing and synchronization 139-140 3.5 hp (1966-1969) 140-141 3.5 hp (1980-on) and 4 hp (1979-on) ............................. 141-142 3.6 hp (19701977) and 4 hp (19761978) 142-143 4.4-8 hp @naLu point ignit~on) 143-145 6-8 hp (CD ignition) ...................... 145 9.2.15 hp (1966-on) ............... 145-147 20 hp (1966.1976) .................. 147-148 20 bp (19794982). 25 and 30 hp (all) and 35 hp (19761979) 148-150 35and45hp(1%69n). 50hp (1966 and IPBI-00). and 55 hp (1967-1976) 151-154 55 hp (3977.3980) 60 hp (1974-1976) 65 hp (1977.1978). and 105. 120 and 135 hp (1975-1977) mtb Magnapowm I1 .. ign~bon............................. 154-157 70-135 hp (distributor bmaker point ignition) ............................... 157-163 70-140 hp (Motomla electronic W b u t o r ignition) ............ 163-165 55. 125 and 140 hp (Rwolite CD ignition) 165-166 Engine timing 151.152. 154-155. 157.160 163-166 Engine. ~ u b l a h o o t u r g ............... 99-101 OvemePa and lack of lubrication 99 Preignition ................................. 99-100 DMlytion ..................................... 100 Poor idling ..................................... 100 Misl%ing 100 Water lepkase in cylinder ...... 100-101 Fiat lpors ........................................ 101 rpowcr loss ...................................... 101 Piston sizurr ................................. 101 Exarrive vibrations ...................... 101 Engine noiscs ................................. 101

.................. .................

.......................... ...............................

.......

..

..........................

............................... ............

.........................................

Elecuid starting system ................... 220 Elenmnic ignition Voubleahoo~ing....................................... 60-65 End Boat, propeller .................... 359-365 Engine cover stvter ................... 375-377 RcmovaVinstallation .......... r......... 376 Stnner mpelnwind spring nplacement ......................... 376-377 E@E flushi ........................... 119-120 Engiae oprration Zltrokc cycle .............................. 2 rlatmke cycle ..................................... 2 &he mial number ......................... 265

Fsstmm Bolts

Machine anews .................................. 6 Nuts ................................................. 6 Snap rinp ........................................... 8 T n d .......................................... 2-6 has 6-7 Washers Fsstmers. horn .................................. 31

caner pinr ......................................... 7

............................ ....................... 6

F l w adjumment OM a i carburetors ........... 1954% wn M D srn cdrbumIom ................... 195 ei CO W B and TC scrim carbuntom 1% 3.5-7.5 hp (1979-0n) 9.945 hp (1981-011) carbumom ......... 196-197 9.9-15 hp (1979-1981) carbumom 197 20-30 hp (1982) 45-50 hp (1982-011) catburetor ................................... 197 25 35 and 55 hp (1983.0~). 90-140 hp (1983-0~1 Walbro) carbumon ........................... 197-198 55-140 hp (1979-1982). 75-140 hp (1983-n Tinotson) carburetom 198 Flushing, &c .......................... 119-120 F l y w h l ...................................... 266-271 Inspcaion 270 Lappiq .................................... 270-271 RemovoVin~aaUation............. 266-269 Flywheal mounted s M s r ......... 388-392 Interlock lever replacement ........... 392 RemovaVinstallation ............. 388-392 Rewmd s8 replacement 391-392 S m r rope teplaaement ....... 390-391 Fuel line and primer bulb ................. 206 Fuel mixture ............................... 110-1l 1 Fuel pump Qeaniq and inspection ................ I82 Diaassemblylasscmhly 180-I82 Maintenance ................................... 134 RcmovaVinstallation ............. 177-L 80 Fuel sysum Carbumor cI Wid inspation ............................ 194-195 Carburetor disa9aemblyl assembly .............................. 189-194 Carbuntor m o v a V installation ........................... 183-189 Carbunton ..................................... 183 Choke solenoid .......................202-203 Float adjustment .................... 195-198 Fuel line and primer bulb ............. 206 Fuel pump ............................... 176182 Integral fuel tank .................... 203-205 Portable fuel tank .................. 205-206 Reed valve agaemhly ............. 198-202 Fuel system service ................... 124-126 Fuel lines ........................................ 125 Engine fuel fdter ..................... 125-126 Fuel pump ...................................... 126 Fuel pump pressure test ................ 126 Fuel system imublahooting 98-99 Fuel tank RemovaVinstallation ............. 203-204 Portable fuel tank .................. 205-206

.......................................

...

...........

.........

..........................................

Galvanic corrosion Condunom ..................................... I2 ElectmlyIe ........................................ 12 Metals ..........................................11-12

sealant
1 Applying

.............................

Applying anaerobic sealant R N sealant RTV splant

..................................... ..............................................

............. ...............

II II 10-11 LO 110

70.140 hp 367 55-65 hn .................................. 367-368

.....................................

DmDeller end B ""118ePlshim-anda t

... Reswe t c s w

323-325 368-373 366-367 124 OePeue and wc pump check tr Oanue l u k h t i o n 112113 Deacnl information Engine opelation 2 FMICXI~ 2-8 Gnlvanic conmion 11-12 ., ~ t s e a l a n ............................ 10-11 l Lubricanls ..................................... 8-10 mn 0Igadzation ul " " ". 1 Noted, cautions and wunia(p 1-2 ~ U o m 14-20 Rotedon fmm&laic I eonusion 1214 i . Tmque spccif~ationa................. . 2 ckueraIor charging sy%mn 220 Ocwrator.starter. Autolcctria 231-238 Watcr pump

..................................

............-359-365 ......................365-366

.............................. ..... .................. ................................ ......................................... ....................

...... ... .......... ....... .................................... .................................. -......

...........................

Ignition and dsuicpl systema (mt) Magneto bmker point .. i p h o n ................................. 238-242 h t o h t e CD a t i o n ............ 258-262 Starter motor system 220-231 W t i o n wil ......................... 74. 82. 244. 244-245,253-254.260-261 m t i o n WII. Della ............................ 246 Ignition mil. Motorola .............. 247-248 lgnlhon switch ....................... 89.90. 262 Ignition system. banery ................. 58-60 Igniuon system. Magoapower I1 65-74 lgn~t~on system. magneto .............. 54-58 lgniuon system ................................. 238 Ignition system. troublshwling Description ....................................... 53 Basic tmublesbwting pmautiws . 53 Troubleshooting preparation (all ignition systems) .................... 54 interlock lever .................................... 392 lnte~lock switch ................. 230-231. 237

.............

...

Lubricatioh maintetuace and tune-up (wnt.) Engine B * 119-I20 Engine synebroniption and adjustment ..................................132 Fuel system a a v b 122-124 GearcpseMdwatQpumpchdr . 124 Lubrication 101-LO8 Perfonmum M (on beat) .... 132-133 Spark p l w .............................. 121-124 Starter rrlnylwlmoid check (ekcbic start models only) ...................... 131 Storsge ..................................... 116-118 Tune-up I20 Witing ham- chcdc ........-... 131-132

......................

................ .............................

. ........................................

Jump s(arting

..............................

214-215

I'

................ ...

ulic pump

.......... ..................... 395

;

I
switch

~ I :Autokcbic ~ - r p n e r e I o r system .................................. Butcry muOry bmker point ignition DbUibutor CD ignition ......... 8 m o p l UnItiq ryltcm ommtoruryltcm 1 Igoition ryltcms : MgDlpower I1 ignition .........

................................. 147 r CD ignition .......... 254-258 o chmgiw ryrtnn .... 215-120 r

.....................................

........... ...........................

...............

Ul-238 209-2s 242-245 245-248 220 220 238 248-254

Lighting system. wubleshwting .. 45-46 236-237 Light switch replacement Linkae adjustments (dso see Engine Syncbmnization) Linkage. geiu shift ..................... 367-368 Lubricaata Oear oil ......................................... 9-10 Gmx ............................................... 10 2-sdoLe engine oil ......................... 8-9 4-stroke engine oil ........................... 8 Lubrication ................................. 109-1 16 ConsisIent fuel mixturn I 12 Conaffuelmixing ................ 111-112 Gasohol .......................................... 1I0 Gtarcsre lubrication .............. 112-1 13 Other lubrication points ........ 113-1 16 Po fuel seleaion ...................... 109 rm Recommended fuel mix.. 110-111 Salt water corrosion of gearrase bearing cage or spool ............................... 116 Sow fuel ......................................... 109 Lubrication. maintenance and tune-up A n t i d o n maintenance ......... 119 Battery and starter motor chsL (electric atart models only) 130-131 Bnaker point ignition sysIem service 126-130 CompleIe submersion ............ 118-119 Compression check ................ 120-121 Cylinder bead bolt t q u e 121

..........

................

..................................

.............

Magnapower I (Motomla) (1974-1979) ignition cirmit M 61-65 Magnapower I1 ignition Alternator stator module m o v a l / installation ........................... 249-250 Capacitor module nmoval/ installation 250 CD module and timing riag reraiow removal/ installation .......... 248-249 Ignition coil removal/ installation ........................... 253-254 Regulator-mtih module removal/ installation 250-251 Timing rins removallinstallation . 251 Trigger assembly and module removal/ installation ........................... 252-253 hdagnapowm II ignition system wubleshwtinp 65-69 Magnapmr II w m nniifier 218-219 Magnapowm 1 1ignition system 1 wubleshwting 69-74 Preliminnry check 69 T * ......................................... 70-74 Ignition mil M 74 M a g n a p o w e r ~ I CD &nition o system. mublcahootiag ............. 76-82 Preliminary check ...................... 76-79 Testing ......................................... 79-82 @ition wil M 82 Mspnao bmku point ignition Bmku point and madmar repkmmnt 242 C i rcmovallinaulLtion ol 242 Operation ....................................... 239 Slator p h e m o v W installation ........................... 239-241 Magneto CD system 74-76 Magneto ignition system Tmublcsbwting 55 c o n d m m capcity md h k u e test " *% Coil test acquma , SS 5

.............-......

..................................

...........................

....................... ...................................
.......................

............................

...............................

...............................
...............

................................

...................... ..........................,... . .................................... ......

............ ........

~pi.cobnalm

........................................ 127-129 tuiaa#........................................... 100 M m l a CD module ................ 246-247

phts

twr ................................................ 64-65 Motoroh igaitiou coil ............... 247-248 Motorola Magnapow l(1934-1979) ignition circuit teat ...................... 61-65

W r o l a electronic distributor

Neutral interlock 381 Neutral intulcck switch .4iurmwnt I60 Neutral intulock witch cam (shifl arm)

...............................

Rzstdite CD ignition (cont.) Ignition switch removal/ inatallation 262 Opaatiop ....................................... 258 Stator ~em~vBVinstallation 258-359 T r i m housioe removal/ instdhtion 259-260 Rzstolite CD ignition system tmublcabootiu# ....................... 83-89 Reliminary cbaL 83-84 Testins ......................................... 85-89 Rimer bulb ........................................ 206 Pmpclla em3 Bopt 55-60 hp (1967-1979) ............. 359-362 m a hp ( m p i s a M) 362.363 65-140 hp (onepiem gemme) 363-365

..................................

....

...........................

......................

S w k plug (mt.) spuk pius ssppiee (rrmmtialll gap only) ., 134 , Spark Plus instauati011 l W Spool s W W ~ (4.4.8 hgf 377-381 N e u m interlock adjuamcnt 3 W Sterler pinion m d mwind > S p r i n S n m o M V i t i e a 378-3%0 StaItcr spool m d m p moval/ i~taUa, ........................... 385381 tion Svool MMcr(9.2-15 hoI ........... 381-384

......... .............. .. .................,

1

.............

.......

Pinion lear rbimminland propella end Bau 35-60 hp (1967.1919) .... 359-362 7045 hp (&pic# m 362-363 ) 65-140 hp (one-plscproaae) 363-365 P&&I " . 302.305. 308-309 PiMnarldwrlmChq rod ........ 305-309 Agnnbly 305-307

......... ............. ................................. ~100mdfoanoCQlOrodinltal&tion (su mgina) ..........................308-309

y

CaVitBtiioa lnd WrmitiOO 19-20 How a pmpsllor w&a 14 Ro~llordwina......................... 15-10 ........... . Pn&lorpans 15 R~moval/hstdhtion............. 324-325 Protection h m galvanic corrosion Galvanic modes ......................... 13-14 Imprared w t wnem~ .............. 14 Sl0winp EomMi~a 13 176182. 126 Pump Pusl Pump water 368-363

.
..

.... ...................

Starter spool ~d rope l e m o d instalktion 383-384 Spool MMcr (35 hp) .................. 384-3S8 Sterler m o W i t a U I I t i o n . 384-381

...........................

...............................

~.

............................ ......................... ................................

StaItcr motor rynnn BNeh m p w c n t 22443rJ Intcrlockswitcb rsplaocmcnt 230-23 StPner motor removaV installation 231-291 Stprta solcnoid (relay) wkement 230 Tmminal block n p k e m a a t ........ 231 StaRm rope 376.377 380381 390391 Stnrccr relay. solenoid ....................... 131 Sunta %olenoid .......................... 230. 2 7 3 Stancr spool 380.381

.................

........................... ................................

.;L...................... 307-308 PiMn lita& .... ". ................... 307.308 , Pbm& ..................................... 101
( &1 4
Poanrw c 0 a m d a n d a r n l o b . R 309-312

'

Stsrcnk
R&R

................................

Red valve -My

........... 56.52. 217.218.

.................

250-251 198-202

Dinwmbly. inrpe*ion and uucrnblv 201-202

..............................

CylhlberM0drdmPk-e
awiaBIbly Wdnc rerW wmba

F u t o l w n & ~ ~ -

.............................. 312319 ,.................... 265

oatiozu " 266 Flywaeel ............. 266271 Piston and cotuMetlnjmd 305-309 P o w e r h e s d ~ inspection : SD1-287 Power head disawmbly .A. 283-302 POW head m o v r V iumktion 2?1a Powrr tilt 39340 Pava Vim and tilt m d m a t e mmI wnems Power Vim m d tilt 39Remote oontml r 409402 Re'ition 99-100 Plemuv ttathg 36+% F'lwtoIitc CD ig~dtlotl CD module removal/ btdhtion 261-262 @ition coil removal/ instalktion ........................... 260-261

............................... .....

...................

..... ................. ... ...... ..

"'

-tor-5 1 217.219.250- 251 R e t o r . voltage 238 Remote contm1 400402 W k 97-98 Reaistor 237-238 Rewind SPrinp 376-377. 378.380, 381.383. 391-392 Rewiaa a t ~ n e r s Autcu~tic (me rewind

. .............................. ........................... ............................ ....................................... ............................

....................................
.................................... ...........................

..........................

R h % ~iUon ............................... 307-308

Rod, Wma%iw

..........................304-312
.................

................ ...................

...........................

...................... 265 5bimmins, pinion @W .............. 359-365 Shutter. choke ........- 156157. 162-163 ... ShutW, tkottle .................155. 160-161 SoknoiQ stmtix ......................... 230. 237 Spdr plug8 ................................. 121-124 Spruk plug mmovd ........................ 123
~~~~~~~

..

375-392 Starting system. electrical 220 starting system, uuublahoo& Desoription 33-35 Troubkshootins proculuna 3S37 Autolmdc modcls 37-42 Non-Autolstric (without suns solenoid or day) 42 Non-AutoMc (with s u n a aolenoid or r&y) 42U Stator windine 70.174 Stltor ............................... 74-75 258-259 Stator. altunator 255-255 Stator mil 216217 Sator module alternator 249-230 Stator phte 249-251 Stator. trislsr 2% Stator whdhg ......................... 79.80. 85 Stow 116-118 Submaion. complete ............... 118-119 Switch. ieaition ............................... 97-99

(dso see Automatic nwind starten)

...................... .............-...

..................... ......................... ................... ............................. ......................... .................................... ......... ................................ ..

.................................. ......

.....................................

........................................
T

W n u m b (&)

Tcmtiml block Test sqvipment Comprcs*on puge Hydrometer

.......................... 237 231. .......................... 27 ...................................... 28

...........................27 vhmom~/ldwell meter .............. 27 fflutu gauge .......................... 27-28

t m measurin# tools & kibe timing light

................ 28

Tools and techniques (mnt.) SpOial tips 30-31 .......................... 27-28 Test ~ 9 u i ~ m e n t 3 Torque sWdfrcations T&u ssaembly 252-253 & T 'I @ ! d 70.72, 80.81 T' housing I@ 259-260 T r i w output 75-76. 85-89 Triwr statw 256 Trim and till 393-4OQ Trim grid tilt cylinder h o u .................................... 39~ Trip regulator 2W TIQUWao* OpesDtinC lwnimneats 33 system ........................... 3345 Gtw8iry syotem 45 AC l i & h syatem ..................... 45-46 Dc battery charging syatem 4648 Altcmakx systwn 48-52 Autolecbic models 52-53 53-54 Ignition aystem Maanno b i t i o n system 54-58 Baacry igniwn system 584

..................................

............................. .......................... ........................... .................................. .

Troubleshootir@i (cam.) CD idnition lyrtan .................... 60-61 Delta and Momrob power i (1974-1979) and CD igdtian (1980-on) circuit ton 61-65 Magnapewer I1 bition 865-69 MsBnapowar m igniIi00 syatosa 63-74 Magneto CD system 7476

..............

........................... ...........

................... ............................... ...... ........ .....................

............................ 6................................ 90-91 Kngine .......................................... 91-93

Tune-up ( a b see Lubricotinn, U s i a ~ c and Tune-up) .......... 120 c

system " RWdite CD ignition s y s m ignition awiteh Fuel syrtcm

.......... .......................... 76-82 ... 83-89

~ CD ~ W tb o

..................

..............

STOP SWITCH

CONDENSER

WIRE CODE

- BLACK - BLUE - GREEN/YELLOW STRIPE

ALTERNATOR STATOR

A-C LIGHTING COIL KIT

WIRING DIAGRAMS

4M

WIRING DIAGRAMS

4$3

414

WIRING DIAGRAMS

IONITION SYLTCH DETAIL

WIRING DIAGRAMS

415

416

WIRING DIAGRAMS

418

WIRING DIAGRAMS

WIRING DIAGRAMS
Dome light

419

WIRING DIAGRAM6

20 HP AUTOLECTRIC WITH REMOTE IaNlTlON SWITCH lS68.ON

DIAGRAMS
2 W 0 HP MAQNETO IQNlTlON

WIRING DIAGRAMS
4A 50 AND 55 HP MAONETO IQNlTlOW

423

424

WIRING DIAGRAMS
3S, 45, SO AND 5s HP M m R Y MNmON WITH ALTERWmR

WIRING DIAGRAMS

425

1OlO.ON a, AND 60 HP 45

426

WIRING DIAGRAMS

uas HP MAONAPOWER

CD

lonrrlon
7

-,*

c " , .

.nm.E
. ." L G. "

WIRING DIAGRAMS

427

r%

WIRING DIAGRAMS

WUNG DIAGRAMS

429

430

WIRING DIAGRAMS
70,7S, 85, 105,120 AND 13s HP MAONAPOWER CD IONITION (DELTA SYSTEM)

43%

WIRING DIAGRAMS

-. .

WIRING DIAGRAMS
lW, 120 AND 1 HP MAQWAPOWLR I1 IONITION s

l(W00N 78 AND 6S HP (MOTOROLA)

1983.01 75 AND 85 HP [PRESTOLITE)

1-0-ON

115 AND 140 HP (MOTOROLA)

h ,
12s HP (PRESTOLITE)

WRING DIAGRAMS

Contents
Table of Contents . 1 Introduction and Safety Notice .. 2 General Troubleshooting Information
Recommended Marine Shop Electrical Test Equipment and Tools . 3 Tricks to Testing with Minimal Test Equipment .. 4 Voltage Drop Measurement....... 5 Johnson/Evinrude Model to Year Identification for 1980 and Up Engines . 5 Engine Wiring Cross Reference Chart. 6 ABYC Color Chart . 7

Chrysler Troubleshooting
Battery CD Ignitions. 8 Magnapower II Ignitions.. 9 Capacitive Discharge Ignitions with Alternator.. 10-12

Force Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven Ignitions (Prestolite).. 13-16 Alternator Driven Ignitions (Brunswick) 17-20

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Battery CD Ignitions.... Alternator Driven Ignitions 1972-78 W/Screw Terminal Power Packs..... Alternator Driven Ignitions 1978-99.. 60 Optical 6 Cylinder engines 60 Optical 4 Cylinder engines 21-22 23-25 26-31 32-35 36-39

Mercury Troubleshooting
Battery CD Ignitions W/Points.. Battery CD Ignitions W/O Points.. Alternator Driven Ignitions.... 40 41-44 45-55

Mercury/Force CDM Ignitions System Troubleshooting

2 Cylinder CDM Ignitions .. 56 3 Cylinder CDM Ignitions .. 57 4 Cylinder CDM Ignitions .. 58 6 Cylinder CDM Ignitions ... 59-60

Appendix
DVA (Peak Voltage) and Resistance Charts (Introduction). 61 Chrysler DVA and Resistance Charts.. 62 Force DVA and Resistance Charts.. 63 Johnson/Evinrude DVA and Resistance Charts .. 64-65 OMC Sea Drive DVA and Resistance Charts . 66 Mercury DVA and Resistance Charts.. 67-69 Yamaha DVA and Resistance Charts.. 70-75 Glossary of Terms ... 76 CDI Technical Service Bulletin OMC 3 Cyl 60, 65 and 70 HP engines ............................ 77 Force Engine wiring diagrams 78-80 Johnson/Evinrude QuickStart Flywheel Trigger Magnet Orientation 81 OMC Stern Drive Electronic Shift Assist Applications and Wiring Diagrams .. 82-84 Troubleshooting Guide Rev B 7 July 2006

Recommended Marine Shop Electrical Test Equipment and Tools The following is a listing of tools available from CDI Electronics and recommended for testing late model engines:
Part Number 511-9764 511-9766 511-9770 511-9773 . 511-9775 518-33A 518-80TK 520-ST80 551-33GF 551-34PV 551-5110 551-9765 553-2700 553-9702 554-9706 Description Neon Spark Tester Sealed Spark Gap Tester Piercing Probes DVA (Peak Voltage)Adapter Load Resistor CDI 33 Meter Includes 511-9773 DVA Adapter Fluke Temperature Adapter DC Inductive Timing Light Gearcase Filler w/Check Valve Pressure/Vacuum Tester Flywheel Holder Spark Plug Wire Puller Amphenol Pin Tool Set Sensor Gap Gauge Tool Amp Pin Removal Tool Remarks/Use Sealed single cylinder has removable ground clamp can be used for running tests Allows for testing up to 8 cylinder for cranking tests. Sealed design reduces the chance of engine fire. Allows access to wires for testing without removing the connection. Tiny hole usually reseals itself. Unit automatically compensates for polarity. Can be used with most quality Multimeters Used to load the output of ignition modules when testing ignition coils. Meter has voltage, amperage, diode check and ohms DVA Adapter allows meter to read peak voltage Works with most digital Multimeters capable of reading millivolts. DC Powered timing light with a very bright strobe light. Universal design makes filling lower units easier. Check valve assembly helps prevent oil spills and makes filling easier. Repairable metal combination unit does both vacuum and pressure testing. Longer handle helps during use. Grounded design reduces the chances of shocking. Set contains 1 each of 553-2697 (Insertion), 553-2698 (Pin Removal) and 553-2699 (Socket Removal) Used to set the timer-base air gap on 1973-1978 OMC 3 and 4 cylinder engines with screw terminal power packs. Used to remove the connector pins in the ignition system on Chrysler/Force engines using the Prestolite type ignitions. Also used on the Mercury TPI sensor connectors. Contains 10 pieces each of the male, female and sleeves. Contains 100+ pieces of hard to find terminals and heat shrink. Use to keep water and corrosion out of connectors. Used to replace the boat-side harness for engine testing, Fits most OMC engines 1969 to 2000. Used to replace the boat-side harness for engine testing, Fits most Mercury engines 1979 to 2000. Used to load the battery when testing the battery charging output.

911-9783 912-9708 991-9705 511-6996 511-7900 519-LB85

Bullet Connector Kit Marine Terminal Kit Dielectric Grease Remote Starter For OMC Remote Starter for Mercury Load Bank

Optional Equipment
511-4017 511-0401 OMC Optical Sensor Tester CDI 2 Cylinder Ignition Tester Unique handheld tester that will efficiently test the optical ignition sensor. New hand-held ignition tester generates high-voltage stator and low voltage trigger signals to test a variety of 2 cylinder ignition systems. Engine specific adapters are required.
Includes 511-0402, 511-0403 and 511-0404 adapters.

520-ST84

Ferret Ultra Bright Timing Light

Ultra bright timing light is visible in bright sunlight. Also has a built-in tachometer for 2 and 4 stroke engines. This feature is a valuable diagnostic tool when troubleshooting ignition system problems.

Tricks to Testing with Minimal Test Equipment

All Engines
Please keep detailed records when you repair an engine. If an engine comes in with one cylinder not firing, mark which one on the work order/history. Intermittent Firing: This problem can be very hard to isolate. A good inductive tachometer can be used to compare the RPM on all cylinders up through WOT (wide-open throttle). A significant difference in the RPM readings can help pinpoint a problem quickly. Visually Check the Stator, Trigger, Rectifier/Regulator and Flywheel: Cracks, burned areas and bubbles in or on the components indicate a problem. If the battery charge windings on the stator are dark brown, black or burned on most or all of the posts, the rectifier/regulator is likely shorted as well. Any sign of rubbing on the outside of the stator indicates a problem in the upper or lower main bearings. A cracked trigger or outer charging magnets can cause many problems ranging from misfiring to no fire at all. Loose flywheel magnets can be dangerous, check the tightness of the bonding adhesive. Rectifier/Regulators can cause problems ranging from a high-speed miss to a total shutdown. An easy check is to disconnect the stator leads to the rectifier (Make sure to insulate them) and retest. If the problem is gone replace the rectifier/regulator. Johnson/Evinrude Open Timer Bases: When all cylinders fire with the spark plugs out, but will not with them installed, try re-gapping the sensors using P/N: 553-9702 Gap Gauge. (See the section on OMC ADI Ignitions page 22-24). Engines with S.L.O.W. Features: If the customer is complaining that the engine wont rev up and shakes real bad, the S.L.O.W. function could be activating. If the engine is NOT overheating, a temperature sensor or VRO sensor failing early can cause this problem. Disconnect the TAN wires at the power pack and retest. If the engine performs normally, reconnect the tan wires one at a time until the problem recurs, then replace the last sensor you connected. Make sure that all of the TAN wires are located as far as possible from the spark plug wires. Also check the blocking diode in the engine harness. Mercury 6 Cylinder Engines with ADI Ignitions If more than one cylinder is not firing: Replace BOTH switch boxes unless you can pin the problem down to the trigger. Replacing just one switch box can result in damage to the engine if the remaining switch box on the engine has a problem in the bias circuit. Always check the bias circuit: Disconnect the White/Black jumper between the switch boxes and check the resistance from the White/Black terminal on each switch box to engine ground. You should read 12-15,000 ohms on stock switch boxes, and 9,000-9,800 ohms on racing switch boxes. MAKE SURE THE READING IS THE SAME ON BOTH SWITCH BOXES! Any problem with the bias circuit and BOTH switch boxes must be replaced as a set. No Fire on 1, 3, 5 or 2, 4, 6: Swap the stator leads from one switch box to the other. If the problem moves, replace the stator. If the problem remains on the same cylinders, replace the switch box. If the stator is replaced and the problem is still present, try another flywheel. No Fire on One Cylinder: This can be caused by a defective blocking diode in the other switch box. Disconnect the White/Black jumper between the switch boxes and retest. If all cylinders are now firing, replace the switch box that was originally firing all three cylinders. To verify this condition, swap the trigger leads on the switch box that was originally firing all three cylinders. If the misfire moves to another cylinder, the switch box is bad.

Voltage Drop Measurement

Start by using a good digital auto-ranging voltmeter capable of reading 1/10th of a volt. The use of an auto-ranging meter will allow for more accurate testing without damaging the meter due to an incorrect range setting. Remove the spark plug wires form the spark plugs and connect them to a spark gap tester and remove the emergency stop clip as well. This prevents the engine from starting and also reduces the chance of getting shocked by the ignition system. The use of an ohmmeter to test a conductor or switch contact for their condition is not the best tool to use. In most cases, it is preferable to use a volt drop test to make sure the conductor, as well as the connection, is in good condition. Before testing, remove and clean all battery cables and connection points.

Testing the Positive Battery Cable to the Engine

1. 2. 3. 4. Select the DC Volts position on the meter. Connect the Red (Positive) lead on the meter to the positive battery POST. Connect the Black (Negative) lead on the meter to the starter solenoid terminal where the positive battery cable is connected. Using a remote start switch, activate the starter solenoid to spin the engine and observe the reading on the meter. A reading above 0.6V indicates a bad cable or bad connection. (a) If the meter reads above 0.6V, move the Black lead on the meter to the positive battery cable terminal on the starter solenoid and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable connection is bad. (b) If the meter still reads above 0.6V, move the Black lead on the meter to the positive battery cable terminal on the battery and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable is bad or undersized.

Service Note: A bad power connection to the ignition or battery charging system can be found by connecting the Black lead on the meter to the power connection of the ignition system or charging system; then working your way back to the battery positive post. At no time should you see a reading above 1V.

Testing the Negative Battery Cable to the Engine

1. 2. 3. 4. Select the DC Volts position on the meter. Connect the Black (Negative) lead on the meter to the negative battery POST. Connect the Red (Positive) lead on the meter to the engine block where the negative battery cable is connected. Using a remote start switch, activate the starter solenoid to spin the engine and observe the reading on the meter. A reading above 0.6V is an indicator of a bad cable or bad connection. (a) If the meter reads above 0.6V, move the Red lead on the meter to the negative battery cable terminal on the engine block and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable connection is bad. (b) If the meter still reads above 0.6V, move the Red lead on the meter to the negative battery cable terminal on the battery and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable is bad or undersized.

A bad ground connection to the ignition and battery charging system can be found by connecting the Red lead on the meter to the ground connection of the ignition or battery charging system; then working your way back to the battery negative post. At no time should you see a reading above 1V.

Johnson/Evinrude Model to Year Identification for 1980 and newer Engines

I 1

N 2

T 3

INTRODUCES R O D U 4 5 6 7

C 8

E 9

S 0

Example: J150TTLCE would be a 1989 150 HP Johnson and aE175STEU would be a 1997 175 HP Evinruide.

Engine Wiring Cross Reference Chart for Most Outboards

Circuit Power Ign Switch Eng Gnd Mercury
PRE- 1978

Mercury
1978 & UP

OMC Red Purple Black

Yamaha Red Yellow Black

Force
PRE- 1994

Force
1994 & UP

Suzuki White Gray Black Green Red Blue Brown Yellow/Red Yellow

Red White Black Orange Salmon White

Red Purple Black

Red Blue Black

Red/Purple Red/Blue Black

Kill Circuit

Blk/Yellow Blk/Yellow

White

White

Blk/Yellow

Eng Start Tach Battery Charge

Yellow Brown Yellow/Red

Yellow/Red Yellow/Red Gray Gray

Brown Green Green

Yellow Purple Yellow

Yellow/Red Gray

Yellow Yellow Yellow/Blk Yellow/Gry Blue Blue/White Brown Brown/Yel Red Red/White Brown/Blk Green/Wht Brown/Wht Wht/Green

Yellow Yellow/Red Yellow/Blk

Stator CDI Power

Red White Blue(a)

Blue Blue/White Blue Blue Brown Yellow Red Green Red Brown/Blue Red/White Black/Red Blk/Red Brown/Yel Green/Wht Wht/Green

Choke

Gray Blue

Yellow/Blk Purple/Wht

Blue

Green

Yellow/Blk

Orange

Overheat Eng Temp

Tan

Tan

Tan (b) White/Blk(c)

Pink

Orange

Tan

Green/Yel

(a) Ignition Driver systems only, all others were battery driven systems. (b) The stripe color on the Tan wire indicates the temperature at which the sensor trips. (c) The White/Black wire is the cold engine temp indicator and shorts to Gnd at approx 105 deg F. Blk = Black Yel = Yellow Wht = White Blk = Black Gry = Gray

ABYC Recommended Boat Wiring Color Codes

Color Yellow/Red Stripe (YR) Brown/Yellow Stripe (BY) Yellow Stripe (Y) Dark Gray (Gy) Dark Gray (Gy) Brown (Br) Function Engine Start Circuit Bilge Blower Bilge Blower Navigation Lights Tachometer Generator/Alternator Charge Indicator Lights, Fuse or switch to pumps. Ammeter to alternator output and accessory fuse or switches. Distribution Panel accessory switch. Alternate color is Yellow (Y) If used for DC negative, blower MUST be Brown/Yellow Stripe. Fuse or Switch to lights Comments

Orange (O)

Accessory Power

Purple (Pu)

Ignition switch to coil and electrical Ignition Instrument power instruments , Distribution Panel to electric instruments. Cabin and instrument lights Oil Pressure Water Pressure Fuel Gauge Tilt/Trim down or in Tilt/Trim up or out Fuse or switch to lights. Oil sender to gauge. Temperature sender to gauge. Fuel sender to gauge. Tilt and Trim circuits Tilt and Trim circuits

Dark Blue Light Blue (Lt Bl) Tan Pink (Pk) Green/White Stripe Blue/White Stripe

Chrysler Troubleshooting
Points Type Ignitions with Amplifiers (Power packs) (Preamps are electronic replacements for points)
A large proportion of the problems with the battery CD units are caused by low battery voltage or bad ground connections. Low voltage symptoms are weak fire or erratic firing of cylinders. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application. WARNING!! Battery reversal will cause severe damage to the CD module and rectifier. NOTE: The Chrysler CD modules are similar to the OMC CD modules with the exception of wire colors. The chart below will assist you as a general guideline for the Chrysler units: Red +12V from battery (RF Noise Filter) Blue +12V from the Key Switch Gray + Terminal of ignition coil White OEM Tachometer signal White/Black Stripe Points or Preamp Module Black Engine ground
No Fire at All:

1. 2. 3.

Clean all battery connections and engine grounds. Make sure the CD module is grounded. Units using rubber shock mounts require a ground wire fastened from the pack to the engine block. Connect a spark gap tester to the high tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately . If it fires when you crank the engine over, there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. Wiring Connection for Testing CD Module

NOTE: Preamps are an electronic version of points and the ignition module will test the same for both. 4. 5. Check voltage present on the blue wire at cranking. It MUST be at least 9 volts. If not, the problem is likely in the harness, key switch, starter or battery. Connect a DC voltmeter to the white/black wire (while it is connected to the distributor) and rotate the engine. There should be some fluctuation in the meter reading. If the reading is high, and fails to move up and down, there is definitely a problem inside the distributor. If the reading is low, disconnect the white/black wire from the distributor and with the key switch turned on, strike the white/black wire against engine ground. The unit should fire each time. If it does, then the CD module is usually good and the points (or Preamp) require checking. If the CD module fails to fire with this test, then the CD module is usually bad. Check DVA voltage on the gray wire going to the coil, it should be approximately 200 volts at cranking. If the voltage is correct, replace the coil with another coil and retest or use a load resister if another coil is not available. A coil that is shorted internally will give a low reading. In this case replace the coil and retry.

6.

After repairing the engine, check the battery voltage at approximately 3500 RPM, The MAXIMUM allowable voltage reading is 16 volts and the minimum is 12V. Running below 12V or over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery.

Chrysler/Force Troubleshooting

Magnapower II Systems
1. 2. 3. Disconnect the white and blue kill wires from the CD Module and retest. If the engine starts and runs, the key-switch or kill circuit is bad. Connect a DC voltmeter from the kill wires to engine ground and turn the ignition switch on and off several times. At no time should you see battery voltage on the kill circuit. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders and test with the spark plugs in and out. If the coils will not fire with the spark plugs in, check compression with the spark plugs removed from all cylinders. A blown head gasket on these engines can prevent the coils from firing with the spark plugs installed. This is caused by a hard to explain problem with the triggering circuit. Crank the engine with the starter and then stop. Check the DVA voltage on terminals T1 and T4. You should read between 170 and 270 volts Positive on terminal T1 and between 170, and 270 volts Negative on terminal T4. (Remember that some DVA adapters are not polarized and will read the same regardless of the polarity). If there is a low reading on one of the terminals, disconnect the white/blue and green/white trigger wires, then retest. If the readings are now correct, one of the trigger modules is bad. A continued low reading may be caused by a bad capacitor. To test, use a couple of jumper wires and swap the green and white capacitor wires going to terminals T1 and T4. If the low reading remains on the same terminal, the CD is bad. If it moves when you move the capacitor wires, the capacitor is shorted. Check to see if the ignition coils are wired correctly. The #1 coil on a two cylinder engine and the #1 & 2 cylinder on a four cylinder engine are wired as NEGATIVE GROUND. The #2 coil on a two cylinder engine and the #3 & 4 cylinder on a four cylinder engine are wired as POSITIVE GROUND.

4.

5.

Chrysler Troubleshooting
Capacitive Discharge Module with Alternator (ADI Alternator Driven Ignition)

General Troubleshooting
1. Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground. Turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them. Visually inspect the stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

2. 3. 4.

IF NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. 2. 3. Disconnect all kill wires AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, readings should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 800 ohms (factory) and 400 500 (CDI/RAPAIR). Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

4.

NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. Check the stator resistance, you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground. Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), and open to engine ground. If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

2. 3.

NO FIRE ON TWO CYLINDERS:

If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not fire, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.

ENGINE WILL NOT KILL:

Check kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the kill wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this kills the pack, the kill circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, possibly the ignition switch.

COILS ONLY FIRE WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:

Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.

HIGH SPEED MISS:

1. 2. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

Two Cylinder Engines with Combination CD Module with Built-in Ignition Coils
NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator resistance, you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground. Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), and open to engine ground. If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

2. 3.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:

Check kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the kill wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this kills the pack, the kill circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.

10

Chrysler/Force Troubleshooting

Chrysler/Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite Capacitive Discharge Module with Alternator (ADI Alternator Driven Ignition)

Two Cylinder Engines Using a Separate Switch Box and Ignition Coils
1. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

2. 3. 4.

IF NO FIRE ON EITHER CYLINDER:

1. 2. 3. Disconnect all stop wires AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the ignition module, stator and trigger. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, readings should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets ranges from 680 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR). Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

4.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. Check the stator resistance, you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 400 500 (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground. Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), and open to engine ground. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

2. 3.

ENGINE WILL NOT STOP:

Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the white stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to the white stop wire coming out of the other pack. If this stops all spark from the pack, the stop circuit in the engine harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.

COILS ONLY HAS SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:

Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.

HIGH SPEED MISS:

1. 2. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

Three and Four Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils
1. 2. 3. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

4.

IF NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. 2. 3. Disconnect stop wire AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR). Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.

4.

11

Chrysler/Force Troubleshooting
Capacitive Discharge Module with Alternator (ADI Alternator Driven Ignition) Three and Four Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. 2. Check the stator and trigger resistance; the trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow. If readings are good, disconnect the stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack. (Continued)

NO SPARK ON TWO CYLINDERS:

If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not spark, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:

Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from sparking, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.

COILS ONLY HAS SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:

Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.

HIGH SPEED MISS:

1. 2. Using the Fluke meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 Cylinders) Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Red White/Red (a) White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Orange/Blue Coil: White Blue/Red White Pack: Pack #3 (Firing #4 and #5 Cylinders) White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Red White/Red (a) White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Orange/Blue Coil: White Blue/Red White

Pack: Pack:

Pack: Pack:

P Pack #2 (Firing #3 Cylinder) Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Red No Connection White/Green Stripe No Connection Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Brown/Blue No Connection (must be connected to the blue terminal on pack 1) Orange/Blue Coil: White Blue/Red No Connection

Pack: Pack:

(a) CDI replacement triggers do not have a connection for this wire from the power pack as the new trigger uses a common ground wire. This allows the wires going to the power pack from the trigger to be larger and more durable. The power pack uses that color as a ground wire for the trigger.

Color Code Cross Reference

FUNCTION Trigger Trigger Trigger Trigger Stator Stator Pack Output to Coil Pack Output to Coil Ignition Coil Stop Circuit OLD Orange Green Red White/Green Stripe Blue Yellow Orange Red White White NEW White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow Stripe White/Red Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Yellow Stripe Orange/Blue Blue/Red Orange/Blue Black/Yellow

12

Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992 General
1. 2. 3. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier. Disconnect the stop wire AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the CD Module, stator and trigger. Check the stator resistance and output using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter and 511-9770 piercing probes, as follows: Read Form Read To Resistance (OEM) Resistance (CDI) DVA (connected) DVA (disconnected) Yellow Blue 680-850 250-350 180V or more 200 V or more Yellow Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b) Blue Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b) NOTE: Remember that the stator may use Brown/Yellow or Brown/Black/Yellow for Yellow and Brown/Blue or Brown/Black/Blue for Blue.
(a) The DVA reading to engine ground is checking a circuit inside the power pack. If the readings are not fairly equal, swap the stator wires going to the power pack and recheck. If the low reading stays on the same wire from the stator, replace the stator. Otherwise, replace the power pack. Most meters will pick up a small amount of voltage due to inductive pick-up. As long as the voltage is very low, it will not indicate a problem.

4.

IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. 2. 3.

Force Troubleshooting

(b)

4. 1.

Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. Check the stator and trigger resistance; the trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-.5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

2.

NO SPARK ON TWO CYLINDERS:

If two cylinders from the same CD unit have no spark, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:

Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from sparking, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.

COILS ONLY HAVE SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:

Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.

HIGH SPEED MISS:

1. 2. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

Two Cylinder Engines using Combination CD Module with Built-in Ignition Coils (1984-88)
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator resistance; you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground. Disconnect and check the trigger resistance; trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-0.5V or more), and open to engine ground. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

2. 3.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:

Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from firing, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also be bad.

13

Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992
Two Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils GENERAL:
1. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them. Visually inspect the stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier. Disconnect all stop wires AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the switch box, stator and trigger. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR). Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. Check the stator resistance; you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground. Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-0.5V or more), and open to engine ground. If readings are good, swap the power pack output from the ignition coil that works to the one that does not. If the coil that had spark stops sparking, replace the power pack.

2. 3. 4.

IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON EITHER CYLINDER:

1. 2. 3.

4. 1.

IF THERE IS NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

2. 3.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:

Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the white stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops all spark from the pack, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also be bad.

NO SPARK UNLESS THE SPARK PLUGS ARE OUT:

Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.

HIGH SPEED MISS:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT. Visually inspect the stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

6.

Three and Four Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. 3. Disconnect the stop wire AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR). Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. Check the stator and trigger resistance; trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA0.5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the opposite pack.

4. 1.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

2.

14

Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992
Three and Four Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils (Continued) NO SPARK ON TWO CYLINDERS:
If two cylinders from the same CD unit do not spark, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:

Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from firing, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also be bad.

COILS ONLY SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:

Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.

HIGH SPEED MISS:

1. 2. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 Cylinders) Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Red White/Red (a) White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Orange/Blue Coil: White Blue/Red White Pack: Pack #2 (Firing #3 and #4 Cylinders) White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Red White/Red (a) White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Orange/Blue Coil: White Blue/Red White

Force Troubleshooting

Pack: Pack:

Pack: Pack:

Pack #2 (Firing #3 Cylinder) Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Red No Connection White/Green Stripe No Connection Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Brown/Blue No Connection (must be connected to the blue terminal on pack 1) Orange/Blue Coil: White Blue/Red No Connection

Pack: Pack:

(a) CDI replacement triggers do not have a connection for this wire from the power pack as the new trigger uses a common ground wire. This allows the wires going to the power pack from the trigger to be larger and more durable. The power pack uses that color as a ground wire for the trigger.

Color Code Cross Reference

FUNCTION Trigger Trigger Trigger Trigger Stator Stator Pack Output to Coil Pack Output to Coil Ignition Coil Stop Circuit OLD Orange Green Red White/Green Stripe Blue Yellow Orange Red White White NEW White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow Stripe White/Red Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Yellow Stripe Orange/Blue Blue/Red Orange/Blue Black/Yellow

Sample Connection for a 4 Cylinder Using New Design CDI Trigger

Pack: Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 cylinders) White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow No Connection White/Red No Connection White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Yellow Stator: Yellow Blue Blue Orange/Blue Coil #1: White Blue/Red Coil #2: White Pack: Pack #2 (Firing #3 and #4 cylinders) White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow Stripe No Connection White/Red No Connection White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Yellow Stator: Yellow Blue Blue Orange/Blue Coil #3: White Blue/Red Coil #4: White

Pack: Pack: Pack:

Pack: Pack: Pack:

15

Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992
5 Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils
IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. 3. Disconnect the stop wire AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the CD Modules, stator and trigger. Check the stator resistance and output using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter and 511-9770 piercing probes, as follows: Read Form Read To Resistance (OEM) Resistance (CDI) DVA (connected) DVA (disconnected) Yellow Blue 680-850 250-350 180V or more 200 V or more Yellow Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b) Blue Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b)
NOTE: Remember that the stator may use Brown/Yellow or Brown/Black/Yellow for Yellow and Brown/Blue or Brown/Black/Blue for Blue. (a) The DVA reading to engine ground is checking a circuit inside the power pack. If the readings are not fairly equal, swap the stator wires going to the power pack and recheck. If the low reading stays on the same wire from the stator, replace the stator. Otherwise, replace the power pack. (b) Most meters will pick up a small amount of voltage due to inductive pick-up. As long as the voltage is very low, it will not indicate a problem.

4. 1. 2.

Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. Check the stator and trigger resistance; the trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-.5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the pack you disconnected.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

NO SPARK ON TWO CYLINDERS:

If two cylinders from the same CD unit have no spark, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:

Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this stops the pack from sparking, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be bad.

COILS ONLY HAVE SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:

Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.

HIGH SPEED MISS:

1. 2. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

Connections: 5 Cylinder
Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 Cylinders) Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Red White/Red (a) White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Orange/Blue Coil: White Blue/Red White Pack: Pack #3 (Firing #4 and #5 Cylinders) White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Red White/Red (a) White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Orange/Blue Coil: White Blue/Red White

Pack: Pack:

Pack: Pack:

Pack #2 (Firing #3 Cylinder) Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) White/Red No Connection White/Green Stripe No Connection Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe No Connection Blue (must be connected to the blue terminal on pack 1) Orange/Blue Coil: #3 White Blue /Red No Connection

Pack: Pack:

(a) CDI replacement triggers do not have a connection for this wire from the power pack as the new trigger uses a common ground wire. This allows the wires going to the power pack from the trigger to be larger and more durable. The power pack uses that color as a ground wire for the trigger.

Color Code Cross Reference

FUNCTION Trigger Trigger Trigger Trigger Stator Stator Pack Output to Coil Pack Output to Coil Ignition Coil Stop Circuit OLD Orange Green Red White/Green Stripe Blue Yellow Orange Red White White NEW White/Orange Stripe White/Yellow Stripe White/Red Stripe White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Yellow Stripe Orange/Blue Blue/Red Orange/Blue Black/Yellow

16

Force Troubleshooting
Mercury Designed Ignitions (1991-1996)
Two Cylinder Engines Using a Separate Switch Box and Ignition Coils NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engines ignition fires, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift-switch. 2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. 4. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as follows: WIRE Blue Red WIRE White/Green WIRE Blue Read To Blue/White Red/White Black Stator OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE 3250-3650 500-600 75-90 28-32 Red Stator OEM RESISTANCE 500-700 Red Stator Adapter OEM RESISTANCE OPEN CDI RESISTANCE 500-600 DVA 180V or more 25V or more DVA 180V or more DVA 180V or more

Force Troubleshooting

Read To Green/White Read To Engine GND

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTANT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER: 1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder. 2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below: Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) (*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no spark on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad. 3. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM: 1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping spark will likely be a bad switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders not sparking properly usually indicates a bad stator. 2. Connect a DVA meter between the stators Blue wire and Blue/White wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs usually indicates a bad stator. (Read from Blue to Engine GND if the engine has a Red stator kit installed). 3. Connect a DVA meter between the stators Red wire and Red/White wires. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than on the Blue wire reading indicates a bad stator. High Speed Miss: 1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under No spark or Intermittent spark on One Cylinder. 2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets. 17

Force Troubleshooting
Mercury Designed Ignitions Three Cylinder Engines 1991-1996
Three Cylinder Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Three Ignition Coils NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engines ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault- check the key switch, harness and shift switch. 2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. 4. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as outlined below: WIRE Blue Red WIRE White/Green WIRE Blue Read To Engine GND Engine GND Black Stator OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE 3250-3650 500-600 75-90 28-32 Red Stator Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE Green/White 500-700 500-600 Red Stator Adapter (Not Available from CDI) Read To OEM RESISTANCE Engine GND OPEN DVA 180V or more 25V or more DVA 180V or more DVA 180V or more

NO SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS: 1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. 2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected White wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected Purple wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) (*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no spark on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad. 4. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-400 RPM: 1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping spark will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders acting up usually indicate a bad stator. 2. Connect a DVA meter from the stators blue wire to engine ground and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (Check from the adapters blue to engine ground if the engine has a red stator kit installed). 3. Connect a DVA meter to the Red wire. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the blue wire reading indicates a bad stator. HIGH SPEED MISS: 1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders. 2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets. 18

Four Cylinder Engines

(1991-1996) Four Cylinder Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Four Ignition Coils
No Fire At All: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engines ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch. 2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

4.

Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below: WIRE Blue Red WIRE Blue Red WIRE White/Green WIRE Blue Blue (Each) Read To Blue/White Red/White Read To Blue/White Red/White Flywheel with Bolted in Magnets OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE 5000-7000 2200-2400 125-155 45-55 Flywheel with Glued-in Magnets OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE 3250-3650 500-600 75-90 28-32 Red Stator OEM RESISTANCE 500-700 Red Stator Adapter OEM RESISTANCE OPEN OPEN CDI RESISTANCE 500-600 DVA 180V or more 25V or more DVA 180V or more 25V or more DVA 180V or more DVA 180V or more 180V or more

Force Troubleshooting

Read To Green/White Read To Blue Ground

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

1. 2.

If the cylinders are only acting up above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Purple wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected Brown wire White/Black wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) White/Black wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) (*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad.

Note: If #1 and #2, or #3 and #4 are misfiring, check the trigger as described above. The trigger uses two coils to spark four cylinders. #1 & 2 share one trigger coil and #3 & 4 share the other trigger coil. Also, the switch box is divided into two parts. The #1 and #2 cylinders spark on one half, and #3 and #4 spark on the other half of the switch box. If the trigger tests fine by the chart above, but you have two cylinders not sparking (either #1 and #2 or #3 and #4), the switch box or stator is bad. 3. If you have two cylinders not sparking (either #1 and #2 or #3 and #4), swap the stator leads end to end on the switch box (Red with red/white and blue with blue/white). If the problem moved to the other cylinders, the stator is bad. It the problem stayed on the same cylinders, the switch box is likely bad if the trigger tests within specifications. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both terminals. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

4.

19

Four Cylinder Engines

(1991-1996) Four Cylinder Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Four Ignition Coils (continued) ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM: 1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. If two cylinders on the same end of the switch box are dropping out, the problem is likely going to be either the switch box or trigger. A single cylinder dropping spark will likely be the trigger, switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders misfiring usually indicate a bad stator. 2. Connect a DVA meter to the stators blue wire and blue/white wires and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (Note: Check between the adapters blue wires if the engine has a red stator kit installed). 3. Connect a DVA meter between the Red wire and Red/White wire and do a running test. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the reading on the blue wires indicates a bad stator. HIGH SPEED MISS: 1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders. 2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

5 Cylinder with Single Switch Box

(1991-1992)
NOTE: This engine uses a battery powered inverter box to provide 250V power to the switch box. The inverter is in a 332-4797 CD module case. This unit is easily identified as the inverter has four terminals instead of the seven used on the 332-4797 CD module. The original stators only function is to charge the battery. CDI Electronics offers a replacement for the inverter, which combines the functions of the inverter box with the stator. The stator has a high voltage output in addition to the battery charging output, allowing the inverter box to be removed. NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Check the red wire on the converter box from the battery at cranking; Minimum voltage is 9.5V. 2. Check the DVA voltage on the purple/white terminal on the converter box at cranking. A minimum of 0.3V is needed to trigger the inverter box. If the voltage is low, check the DVA voltage from the white/black trigger to the yellow, black, brown, white and purple trigger wires. If you read 4V or more, the inverter box is likely bad. 3. Check the DVA voltage on the blue terminal on the converter box at cranking, reading should be approximately 250V. 4. CDI Electronics replacement stator only: Check the DVA output and resistance from the blue wire to engine ground. You should read a minimum of 160V DVA and 80 ohms resistance. NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER: 1. Check the DVA voltage from the white/black trigger to the yellow, black, brown, white and purple trigger wires. If you read 4V or more, the trigger is likely good. 2. Check the DVA voltage from the switch box. You should have the same reading on all of the Green Striped output wires to the ignition coils. If one cylinder reads low, swap the locations of the Green Striped wire not firing with one that has spark. If the problem moves, replace the power pack. If the no spark condition remains on the same cylinder, replace the ignition coil. ALL CYLINDERS HAVE SPARK, BUT ENGINE WILL NOT RUN: Disconnect the white/black wire from the switch box and check the resistance from the switch boxs white/black wire to engine ground. The reading should be approximately 8400 ohms. A low reading indicates a bad bias circuit and the switch box needs to be replaced.

20

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Battery CD Ignitions with Points
DUE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BATTERIES, NEITHER MAINTAINENCE FREE NOR LOW MAINTAINENCE BATTERIES ARE NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THIS APPLICATION! 1. 2. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds. Check wiring as follows: Pack Wire Color Red or Purple Blue Black/White Black

Function 12V from key-switch Positive to ignition coil To points Engine Ground

Engine Wiring Connections for Testing Ignition Module

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

3.

4. 5. 6.

7.

8.

Connect a spark gap tester to the high tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately . When you crank the engine over, if it sparks while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not spark through the spark plug wires there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. Check voltage present on the purple wire at cranking. It MUST be at least 9 volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter or battery. Check DVA voltage on the blue wire going to the coil, it should be approximately 200 volts at cranking. Disconnect the white/black points wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the white/black points wire against engine ground. The unit should spark each time. If it does, this usually means the CD module is good. Check the points, points plate and grounding wire for the points. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the white/black points wire against engine ground. Only the #1 spark plug wire should spark. If another spark plug wire has spark, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders. Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500-RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts. Over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery.

21

Johnson/Evinrude
Prestolite Battery Ignitions with Pickup Sensors
DUE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BATTERIES, NEITHER MAINTAINENCE FREE NOR LOW MAINTAINENCE BATTERIES ARE NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THIS APPLICATION! 1. 2. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds. Check wiring as follows: Except 1967 Pack Wire Color Function Red or Purple 12V from keyswitch Blue Positive to ignition coil Black/White (2) To trigger sensor Black Engine Ground Green/Black* Anti-reverse Spring * Some engines had this wire on the sensor plate.

Pack Wire Color Red or Purple Green Blue (2) Black Green/Black*

1967 Function 12V from keyswitch Positive to ignition coil To trigger sensor Engine Ground Anti-reverse Spring

3.

4. 5. 6. 7.

Connect a spark gap tester to the high tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately . When you crank the engine over, if it sparks while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not spark through the spark plug wires there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. Check voltage present on the Purple (or Red) wire at cranking. It MUST be at least 9 volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter or battery. Check DVA voltage on the Blue (or Green) wire going to the coil, it should be approximately 200 volts at cranking. Disconnect the sensor wires. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the sensor wires together. The unit should fire each time. If it does, this usually means the CD module is good. Check the sensor and sensor air gap. Make sure the triggering ring is the correct one for the type ignition being used. Phase II ignitions require the sensor with wide gaps between the lobes.

Phase One Rotor 8. 9.

Phase Two Rotor

Reset the sensor air gap to 0.020 in. If this allows the pack to fire, leave the gap at that setting. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the sensors wires together. Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any of the other spark plug wires have fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders. 10. Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500-RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts. Over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery.

22

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1972-1978
(With screw terminal type power packs)

Two Cylinder Engines

NO SPARK ON EITHER CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultcheck the key switch, harness and shift switch. 2. Check the stator resistance. You should read approximately 500 ohms from the brown wire to engine ground. 3. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to engine ground (while connected to the pack). 4. Check the timer bases resistance from the black/white wire to the white/black wire. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics 133-0875K1). Note: The original factory specifications was 8-14 ohms, this was changed around the mid 1970s in response to the change in SCRs triggering requirements. 5. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the black/white wire to the white/black (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet. 1. Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensor and the nut located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base. 2. Slide the sensor in toward the crankshaft approximately 0.005 at a time. 3. Coat the face of the sensor with machinists bluing or equivalent. 4. Install the flywheel according to the service manual and crank the engine over. 5. Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the sensor face. 6. If the ignition fired, finger tight the nut on the outside of the heat shield and coat it with RTV. 7. If still no fire, slide the sensor in another 0.005 and repeat steps c through f. 6. Check the DVA voltage on each trigger wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the black/white wire and the white/black wire to engine ground (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the terminals on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in its internal wiring (A thin spot in the insulation on one wire). 7. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER: Either a faulty power pack or ignition coil normally causes this. Extremely rare causes include a weak trigger magnet in the flywheel or a timer base.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

Three Cylinder Engines

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: Note: If the ignition only sparks with the spark plugs out, the timer base is likely weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8. 1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultcheck the key switch, harness and shift switch. 2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine now sparks, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the stator resistance. Reading should be about 500 ohms from the brown wire to brown/yellow wire. 4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack). 5. Check the timer bases resistance from the black/white wire to the white/black wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases). 6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more is needed from the black/white wire to the white/black wires (while connected to the pack) to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a Sensor Gap Gauge (553-9702) or use the following procedure outlined below. a) Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensors and the nuts located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base and slide the sensors in toward the crankshaft until the sensor touches the stop boss located at the base of the sensor mounting area. Tighten the mounting screws. b) Coat the face of the sensor with machinists bluing or equivalent and install the flywheel without the key and rotate the flywheel at least one full turn. Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the sensor face. If it did, back the sensor out approximately 0.005 and repeat steps C, D and E. c) If the ignition has spark, finger tight the nut on the outside of the heat shield and coat it with RTV. d) If still no spark, replace the sensor. 23

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1972-1978 (Three Cylinder Engines with screw terminal type power packs, continued)
7. Check the DVA voltage on the black/white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the black/white terminal on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (A thin spot in the insulation on one wire). Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

8.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS: 1. Check the timer base resistance from the black/white wire to the white/black wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases) . 2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more is needed from the black/white wire to the white/black wires (while connected to the pack) to fire the pack. 3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Four Cylinder Engines

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: (Note: If the engine has spark with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is either weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.) 1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engines' ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. 2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the stator resistance. You should read about 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire. 4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack). 5. Check the timer base resistance from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire. Reading should be 10-20 ohms on each set (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases). 6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the #1 sensor wire to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 sensor wire to the #4 sensor wire (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a Sensor Gap Gauge (553-9702) or use the following procedure: a) Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensors and the nuts located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base. b) Slide the sensors in toward the crankshaft until the sensor touches the stop boss located at the base of the sensor mounting area. Tighten the mounting screws. c) Coat the face of the sensors with machinists bluing or equivalent. d) Install the flywheel without the key and rotate the flywheel at least one full turn. e) Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the face of the sensors. If it did, back the sensor out approximately 0.005 and repeat steps c, d and e. f) If the ignition fired, finger tight the nuts on the outside of the heat shield and coat them with RTV. g) If still no fire, replace the sensor. 7. Check the DVA voltage on each black/white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the black/white terminals on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (possibly a thin spot in the insulation on one wire). Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

8.

24

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1972-1978 Four Cylinder Engines with screw terminal type power packs (Continued)
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS: Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack. NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE BANK: 1. Check the timer bases resistance from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire. Reading should be 10-20 ohms on each set (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases). 2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire (while connected to the pack) is needed to have spark. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a sensor gap gauge or use the procedure outlined in the previous page. 3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and connect a load resistor to that terminal. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Six Cylinder Engines

Note: If the engine has spark with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is likely weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8. NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault, check the key switch, harness and shift switch. 2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the stator resistance. You should read about 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire. 4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack) on each bank. 5. Check the timer bases resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases). 6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. 7. Check the DVA voltage on the white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the white terminal on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (possibly a thin spot in the insulation on one wire). 8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS: 1. Check the timer bases resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases). 2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. 3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

25

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1978-2006
Two Stroke/Except Direct Injected Engines

Two Cylinder Engines

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected Black/White wire White/Black wire 15-42 0.6V or more Connected Some engines use the following wiring on the trigger: White wire Blue wire 15-42 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 15-42 0.6V or more Connected Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the readings are low, disconnect the orange wires from the ignition coils and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

3. 4.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

Either a faulty power pack or ignition coil normally causes this problem. Rare cases include a weak trigger magnet in the flywheel or a timer base.

WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000 RPM:

1. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more, increasing with engine RPM until it reaches 300-400 volts. A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent will normally be caused by a bad stator. A drop on only one orange wire will normally be the power pack. Check the stator resistance. If it reads approximately 900 ohms, replace it with the 500 ohm design.

2.

Engines with S.L.O.W.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM:
1. 2. 3. 4. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire. Check the stator resistance. If it reads approximately 900 ohms, replace it with the 500 ohm design.

Three Cylinder Engines

(Except Quick Start Models) NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. 3. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the ignition now has spark, replace the rectifier. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected White wire Purple 38-42 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

4. 1.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading White wire Purple 38-42 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected 2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

26

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1978-2006
(Three Cylinder Engines Continued)

Models with S.L.O.W.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM: 1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating. 2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch. 3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

Three Cylinder Engines

(Quick Start Models) NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultpossibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. 2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the ignition now has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected Orange wire Orange/Black wire 450-550** 150V or more Connected White wire Purple 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected ** NOTE: Some engines use a 50 or a 100 ohms power coil. ^^ This reading will vary according to the meter used. Do a comparison reading and if there is a difference of over 10%, replace the timer base. Typically, use the Red meter lead to the White wire and the Black wire to the other wires. 4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

NO SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS: 1. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected Orange wire Orange/Black wire 450-550** 150V or more Connected White wire Purple 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected ** NOTE: Some engines use a 50 or a 100 ohms power coil. ^^ This reading will vary according to the meter used. Do a comparison reading and if there is a difference of over 10%, replace the timer base. Typically, use the Red meter lead to the White wire and the Black wire to the other wires. 2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM: 1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating. 2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch. 3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

27

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1978-2006 Four Cylinder Engines (Except Quick Start Models) NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultpossibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. 2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for both banks: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected 4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. 5. Check the center hub triggering magnet in the flywheel for damage and tight fit.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER OR ONE BANK: 1. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for both banks: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 150V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected NOTE: Also check the DVA readings to engine ground from each brown wire and compare the readings. If one wire reads low while connected to the pack, swap the connections and see if the low reading stays on the same stator wire. If it does, the stator is bad. 2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting
Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1978-2006 Four Cylinder Engines (Quick Start Models)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultpossibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. 2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 950-1100 150V or more Connected Orange wire Orange/Black wire 93-100** 150V or more Connected White wire Purple 35-55 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 35-55 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 35-55 0.6V or more Connected White wire Pink 35-55 0.6V or more Connected White wire Purple/White 115-125 1.6V or more Connected White wire Blue/White 115-125 1.6V or more Connected White wire Green/White 115-125 1.6V or more Connected White wire Pink/White 115-125 1.6V or more Connected ** NOTE: Some engines use a 50 ohm power coil. 4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS: 1. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance White wire Purple 35-55 White wire Blue wire 35-55 White wire Green wire 35-55 White wire Pink 35-55 28

DVA Reading 0.6V or more Connected 0.6V or more Connected 0.6V or more Connected 0.6V or more Connected

2. Disconnect the white/black temperature wire and retest. If all cylinders now fire, replace the timer base. 3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack. ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM: 1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating. 2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch. 3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

Six Cylinder Engines

Without Quick Start NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultpossibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. 2. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. 3. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. 4. Check the center hub triggering magnet in the flywheel for damage and tight fit. NO SPARK ON ONE BANK: 1. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 450-550 (9 amp) 150V or more Connected Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 900-1100 (35 amp) 150V or more Connected White wire Purple 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected (a) Use a comparison reading as the values for different years used different coils in the Timer-Base. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all three tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if the insulation is breaking down while the engine is running. 2. Check the DVA voltage to engine ground on the White Timer-Base wire while it is connected to the pack. You should see approximately the same reading as you do between the Brown & Brown/Yellow wires for that bank. A low reading usually indicates a bad Timer-Base. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wire from one of the packs and retest. If the bank that had no fire now has spark, the pack that was appearing to fire correctly is faulty.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

3.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER: 1. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack or Timer-Base. 2. Check the Timer Base resistance and DVA output as given below for each cylinder: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading White wire Purple wire 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 15-42(a) 0.6V or more Connected (a) Use a comparison reading as the values for different years used different coils in the Timer-Base. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all three tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. 3. Inspect the ignition coil for burned or discolored areas indicating arcing. 4. Swap the ignition coil with one that is sparking correctly. 5. Banks with the power packs and see if the problem moves. If fit does, replace the power pack. If not, replace the Timer-Base.

29

Six Cylinder Engines

Quick Start Models Note: These engines usually have a 35 Amp battery charging capacity. Due to the size and weight of the flywheel magnets, it is highly recommended that you check to make sure both the triggering and charge magnets are still secure in the flywheel before you service the engine. A loose or broken magnet can be deadly to you or your pocketbook. It is a recommended you index the flywheel and check the timing on all cylinders when servicing these engines. Also check for static firing and intermittent spark. 1. 2. 3. NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine's ignition now has fire, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 900-1100 (35 amp) 150V or more Connected Orange Orange/Black 93-103 OEM 12-24V Connected Orange Orange/Black 45-55 CDI 12-24V Connected White wire Purple wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Purple wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Black/White wire 2nd connector 215-225 Not Applicable (a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 1M to 5M ohms. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if one of the scrs inside the Timer-Base is breaking down while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

4.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER: 1. Check the timer bases resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above). 2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 130V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack or Timer-Base. NO SPARK ON ONE BANK: 1. Check the stator resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above). 2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one bank, disconnect the orange wires from the ignition coil for that bank and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, one or all of the ignition coils are likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack. ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM : 1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating. 2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch. 3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire. 4. Disconnect the VRO sensor from the engine harness and retest. If the engine performs correctly, replace the VRO or sensor.

30

Eight Cylinder Engines

Quick Start Models Note: These engines usually have a 35 Amp battery charging capacity. Due to the size and weight of the flywheel magnets, it is highly recommended that you check to make sure both the triggering and charge magnets are still secure in the flywheel before you service the engine. A loose or broken magnet can be deadly to you or your pocketbook. It is a recommended you index the flywheel and check the timing on all cylinders when servicing these engines. Also check for static firing and intermittent spark. 1. 2. 3. NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine's ignition now has fire, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire 900-1100 (35 amp) 150V or more Connected Orange Orange/Black 93-103 OEM 12-24V Connected Orange Orange/Black 40-55 CDI 12-24V Connected White wire Purple wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Pink wire (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Purple wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Blue wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Green wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Pink wire 2nd connector (a) 0.6V or more Connected White wire Black/White wire 2nd connector 215-225 Not Applicable (a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 1M to 5M ohms. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if one of the scrs inside the Timer-Base is breaking down while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

4.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER: 1. Check the timer bases resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above). 2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 130V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack or Timer-Base. NO SPARK ON ONE BANK: 1. Check the stator resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above). 2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one bank, disconnect the orange wires from the ignition coil for that bank and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, one or all of the ignition coils are likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack. ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM : 1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating. 2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch. 3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire. 4. Disconnect the VRO sensor from the engine harness and retest. If the engine performs correctly, replace the VRO or sensor.

31

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000) Carbureted 1991-2006 Model Years
Due to the differences in this ignition system, troubleshooting can be somewhat difficult if you are not familiar with the design. The other Johnson/Evinrude QuickStart ignitions use stator charge coils and a power coil to provide high voltage and power for the QuickStart and rev limiter circuits. They require a timer base for triggering and use separate magnets for the high voltage and triggering the timer base. The OIS 2000 Optical system uses the stator charge coils to provide high voltage for the firing of the ignition coils and a power coil to provide power for the electronics, both inside the power pack and inside the sensor. The other QuickStart models will run the engine without the power coil being connected (of course this will burn out the control circuits inside the power pack). The OIS 2000 ignition has to have the power coil supplying power in order to operate the QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter, and fire the coils beyond cranking speed. The optical sensor located on the top is fed power from the power pack and sends crankshaft position, cylinder location and direction of rotation back to the power pack. The pack is smart enough to know not to fire if the engine is not turning in the right direction. S.L.O.W. functions reduce the engine RPM to approximately 2500 when the engine over-heats or the no oil warning is activated. QuickStart (a 10 timing advance) activates as long as the engine RPM is below 1100, the engine temperature is below 105 F and the Yellow/Red wire from the starter solenoid is not feeding 12V DC to the power pack all of the time. QuickStart will also activate for 5-10 seconds each time the engine is started regardless of engine temperature. CDI Electronics (blue case with red sleeve) power packs have a built-in feature to compensate for a shorted cold sensor, allowing the engine to exit QuickStart after 5 minutes of running time regardless of the condition of the cold sensor. The CDI power pack also will not fire if the wrong encoder wheel (4 cylinder) is installed by mistake. At cranking speed the voltage from the stator may not be enough to operate the circuits inside the power pack. Therefore, battery voltage supplied via the yellow/red striped start wire. The extra voltage is needed in order for the optical sensor to operate correctly as low voltage from the battery and/or stator can cause intermittent or no fire at all. There are a couple of critical items you should be aware of on these engines. First, the spark plug wires have to be the Gray inductive resistor wires these are NOT automotive wires. Secondly, the spark plugs should be the factory recommended QL78YC. Use of other spark plugs or wires can cause problems inside the power pack from RFI and MFI noise. CDI Electronics has the spark plug wires available as a set, P/N: 931-4921. A breakthrough at CDI Electronics has allowed the use of microprocessor digital control circuits to handle the timing, QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter and data logging inside the power pack. This allows the timing to be set using a timing light, remote starter, spark gap tester, piston stop tool and a jumper wire. With these new digital power packs, you disconnect the port temperature switch/sensor leads and use a jumper wire to short the tan temperature sensor wire to engine ground. Once you have verified the timing pointer using a piston stop tool (Or a dial indicator), connect all spark plug wires to a spark gap tester, connect a remote starter to the engine and a timing light to # 1 spark plug wire. When you crank the engine over with the remote starter and check the timing, you should see the timing is set to approximately 4-6 ATDC (After Top Dead Center). By advancing the throttle all the way and rechecking the timing for WOT (Wide Open Throttle), you should see approximately 19 - 20 BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) Without this timing feature built into the power pack, you will need the 511-4017 Timing Tool or the OEM version to set the timing for idle and WOT. Additional advantages offered by the digital circuitry include the ability to compensate for a bad temperature switch, a smoother rev limit, customized rev limiters and special timing curves. Additional items to be aware of: 1. Early 150 and 175 HP engines did not have the tension washer on top of the sensor encoder wheel. This washer is required to keep the encoder locked in place. If it is missing, be sure to install the correct washer. 2. 1991 and 1992 engines did not have a shift interrupter switch. This resulted in hard shifting and required a conversion to resolve this problem. 3. The shift interrupter switch killed the fire on the starboard bank of cylinders from 1993 thru mid 1990s. By 1998, a change was made for the shift interrupter switch to kill the fire on the Port bank. 4. 1991 through late 1990s engines occasionally developed a crack in the water jacket allowing water into the intake at high speed. This typically resulted in # 1 cylinder ingesting water. You can usually see signs of this because the head looks like it has been steam cleaned inside the combustion chamber. 5. 1991 and 1992 engines came out with a Black sleeved power pack (P/N 584122) and stator (P/N 584109) and used a P/N 584265 sensor. In 1993 the power packs were changed to a Gray sleeve (Production) power pack (P/N 584910). The stator was changed to a Gray sleeve (P/N 584981) and the sensor was changed to P/N 584914. Engines with ignition problems had a service replacement power pack with a blue sleeve and a replacement sensor installed as a set. The Blue sleeved power pack was only available as a service replacement. The Gray sleeved stator could be used with all of the power packs, but the Black sleeved stator was to be used only with a Black sleeved power pack. The sensor P/N changed to 586343 in the late 1990s. 32

Johnson/Evinrude Optical Ignition Troubleshooting

6. 7. 8.

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000) 1991-2006 Model Years (Continued) Some engines do not have the RFI/MFI noise shield between the ignition coils and the power pack. If it is missing, replace it. The Gray inductive spark plug wires replaced the Black copper spark plug wires that were used on the early 1990s engines. Originally the spark plugs were the QL82YC, but that recommendation was changed to the QL78YC for improved performance.

NO FIRE AT ALL: 1. Check the kill lanyard and key-switch position. 2. Verify the engine rotation (The engine needs to be turning in a clockwise direction). 3. Check the power pack and ignition coil ground wires for corrosion and tightness. 4. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders. 5. Disconnect the boat side harness and connect a remote starter unit. Check for spark. If the engine has spark, check the boat side harnesss Black/Yellow wire for shorts to ground. 6. Disconnect the 5-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow wires are shorted to engine ground. 7. Check the battery voltage on the Yellow/Red striped wire while cranking the engine. If below 11 volts, charge the battery or check all battery cables. 8. Remove the sensor wheel and check for damage, especially where the top slots are located. Sometimes the wheels will break out where the windows overlap.

(This area is the most common breakout location) Check the sensor eyes for dirt, grease, etc. If you have to clean it, use denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. Do not use any other cleaning agent because damage to the optical lens will occur. 10. Disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the regulator/rectifier. 11. Using the Piercing Probes, check the resistance, then check the DVA voltage on the 6 pin stator connector while connected as follows: Red Lead Black Lead Resistance DVA Reading Orange Orange/Black 50-60 ohms 12 V or more Brown Brown/Yellow 450-600 ohms 150V or more Brown/White Brown/Black 450-600 ohms 150V or more Note: Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that require checking. Service note: It is recommended that liquid neoprene be applied to the areas where the piercing probes were used. 12. If all the tests so far show good readings, check the DVA output from the power pack on the primary coil wires as follows: Red Lead Black Lead DVA Reading Orange/Blue Engine Ground 130 V or more Orange Engine Ground 130 V or more Orange/Green Engine Ground 130 V or more Note: If the DVA values are below these specifications, the power pack or sensor is likely bad. 13. Check the DVA voltage on the Black/Orange and Orange/Red sensors leads as follows: Red Lead Black Lead DVA Reading Orange/Red Engine Ground 12 V or more Black/Orange Engine Ground 12 V or more WARNING!! The Black/Orange wire should NEVER be shorted to engine ground as this will damage the sensor. 33 9.

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000) 1991-2006 Model Years (Continued) 14. If an oscilloscope is available, check the white/blue (crank position signal) and white/green (cylinder position signal) sensor wires while connected to the sensor. With the engine cranking over, you should see a square toothed pattern on both wires. The white/blue wire should show 1 pulse per revolution and the white/green should show 7 pulses per revolution of the engine. See chart below.
133-6343 Optical Sensor
LED Ret. Power Ground Sync Cyl
A B C D E Scope

10 Dwell

Sync

Cyl
C0 Offset for Anti-Reverse Detection C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6

a. b. c. d. e.

Led Power Black/Orange Power Orange Red Ground Black Sync White/Blue Stripe Cyl White/Green

No Spark on One Bank of Cylinders: 1. Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the resistance and DVA voltage for the bank without spark on the 6 pin stator connector while connected as follows: Red Lead Black Lead Ohms Resistance DVA Bank/Cyl Brown Brown/Yellow 450-600 ohms 150V + Stbd (1,3,5) Brown/White Brown/Black 450-600 ohms 150V + Port (2,4,6)
NOTE: If the power pack has no spark on one bank and the readings are good, replace the power pack.

2.

Disconnect the 5-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow or Black/Orange wire is shorted to engine ground. Check to see if the Shift Interrupter switch is located in the circuit where there is no spark.
Stator To Power Pack Connections
Note: Starboard Browns power Port Bank

Power Coil: 45 to 65 Ohms

Charge Coils: 495 to 605 Ohms

Odd Cylinder Charge Coil

Even Cylinder Charge Coil

Charge Coils: 150V Cranking 400V Idling Power Coil: 12V Cranking 18V Idling

With Pack Connected using CDI 511-9773 Peak DVA Adapter

Power Coil

6 Pin Connector
a) b) c) d) e) f) Brown/Black Orange/Black Brown/Yellow Brown Orange Brown/White

34

Johnson/Evinrude Optical Ignition Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000) 1991-2006 Model Years (Continued) High Speed Miss: 1. If the engine runs fine until you get above 4900 RPM and then starts missing, check the Orange to Orange/Black power coil wires with an oscilloscope (If available) or replace the pack. A breakdown inside the pack could cause RFI noise to activate the rev limiter for no apparent reason. 2. Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage at the RPM where the problem is occurring while connected as follows: Red Lead Black Lead DVA Bank/Cylinder Brown Brown/Yellow 150V + Starboard (1,3,5) Brown/White Brown/Black 150V + Port (2,4,6)
NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 400 volts (voltage exceeding 400 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator charge coil.

3.

Connect an inductive tachometer to the spark plug wires one at a time and compare the readings. If most of the cylinders show the same reading and one or two show different readings, check the primary wires with the inductive pickup to see if the readings are the same coming out of the power pack. A difference in readings between the primary and secondary coil wires usually indicate bad ignition wires. No difference indicates a bad power pack.

Will Not Rev Above Idle Speed or Only Has Spark as Long as the Starter Solenoid is Activated: Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage while connected as follows: Red Lead Black Lead DVA Orange Orange/Black 11-24V NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 24 volts (voltage exceeding 24 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator winding. A sharp drop in voltage when you let off of the starter solenoid indicates a bad power coil on the stator.

Engine Will Not Rev Above 2500 RPM and Shakes Hard (SLOW Activated): 1. Verify the engine is not actually over-heating by using a digital pyrometer. 2. Check the routing of the tan temperature wires, an example of a bad location is shown below. The tan wires have to be located as far away as possible from the spark plug wires.

(Unacceptable routing for the temp wire.) 3. 4. Disconnect the temperature sensors and see if the engine performs normally. If it does, check both temperature sensors and replace the defective one. If there is not any indication of a problem at this point, replace the power pack.

Engine stays in QuickStart All of the Time: Check the Yellow/Red wire for 12 volts while the engine is running. You should only see voltage on this wire while the starter solenoid is engaged.

35

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60 4 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000) Carbureted 1995-2006 Model Years
Due to the differences in this ignition system, troubleshooting can be somewhat difficult if you are not familiar with the design. The other Johnson/Evinrude QuickStart ignitions use stator charge coils and a power coil to provide high voltage and power for the QuickStart and rev limiter circuits. They require a timer base for triggering and use separate magnets for the high voltage and triggering the timer base. The OIS 2000 Optical system uses the stator charge coil to provide high voltage for the firing of the ignition coils and a power coil to provide power for the electronics, both inside the power pack and inside the sensor. The other QuickStart models will run the engine without the power coil being connected (of course this will burn out the control circuits inside the power pack). The OIS 2000 ignition has to have the power coil supplying power in order to operate the QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter, and fire the coils beyond cranking speed. The optical sensor located on the top is fed power from the power pack and sends crankshaft position, cylinder location and direction of rotation back to the power pack. The pack is smart enough to know not to fire if the engine is not turning in the right direction. S.L.O.W. functions reduce the engine RPM to approximately 2500 when the engine over-heats or the no oil warning is activated. QuickStart (a 10 timing advance) activates as long as the engine RPM is below 1100, the engine temperature is below 105 F and the Yellow/Red wire from the starter solenoid is not feeding 12V DC to the power pack all of the time. QuickStart will also activate for 5-10 seconds each time the engine is started regardless of engine temperature. CDI Electronics (blue case with red sleeve) power packs have a built-in feature to compensate for a shorted cold sensor, allowing the engine to come out of QuickStart after 5 minutes of running time regardless of the condition of the cold sensor. The CDI power pack will not fire if the wrong encoder wheel (6 cylinder) is installed by mistake. At cranking speed the voltage from the stator may not be enough to operate the circuits inside the power pack, therefore there is battery voltage supplied from the starter solenoid via the yellow/red striped wire. The extra voltage is needed in order for the optical sensor to operate correctly as low voltage from the battery and/or stator can cause intermittent or no fire at all. There are a couple of critical items you should be aware of on these engines. First, the spark plug wires have to be the Gray inductive resistor wires these are NOT automotive wires. Secondly, the spark plugs have to be the factory recommended QL78YC. Use of other spark plugs or wires can cause problems inside the power pack from RFI and MFI noise. CDI Electronics has the spark plug wires available as a set, P/N: 931-4921. A breakthrough at CDI Electronics has allowed the use of microprocessor digital control circuits to handle the timing, QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter and data logging inside the power pack. This allows the timing to be set using a timing light, remote starter, spark gap tester, piston stop tool and a jumper wire. With these new digital power packs, you disconnect the port temperature switch/sensor leads and use a jumper wire to short the tan temperature sensor wire to engine ground. Once you have verified the timing pointer using a piston stop tool (Or a dial indicator), connect all spark plug wires to a spark gap tester, connect a remote starter to the engine and a timing light to # 1 spark plug wire. When you crank the engine over with the remote starter and check the timing, you should see the timing is set to approximately 4-6 ATDC (After Top Dead Center). By advancing the throttle all the way and rechecking the timing for WOT (Wide Open Throttle), you should see approximately 19 - 21 BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) Without this timing feature built into the power pack, you would not be able to easily set the timing for idle or WOT without a optical diagnostic tool. Additional advantages offered by the digital circuitry include the ability to compensate for a bad temperature switch, a smoother rev limit, customized rev limiters and special timing curves. Additional items to be aware of: 1. Some engines do not have the RFI/MFI noise shield between the ignition coils and the power pack. If it is missing, replace it. 2. Originally the spark plugs were the QL82YC, but that recommendation was changed to the QL78YC for improved performance. NO FIRE AT ALL: 1. Check the kill lanyard and key-switch position. 2. Verify the engine rotation (The engine needs to be turning in a clockwise direction). 3. Check the power pack and ignition coil ground wires for corrosion and tightness. 4. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders. 5. Disconnect the boat side harness and connect a remote starter unit. Check for spark. If the engine has spark, check the boat side harnesss Black/Yellow wire for shorts to ground. 6. Disconnect the 4-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow wires are shorted to engine ground. 7. Check the battery voltage on the Yellow/Red striped wire while cranking the engine. If below 11 volts, charge the battery or check all battery cables. 8. Remove the sensor wheel and check for damage, especially where the top slots are located. Sometimes the wheels will break out where the windows overlap. 36

Johnson/Evinrude Optical Ignition Troubleshooting

(This area is the most common breakout location) 9. Check the sensor eyes for dirt, grease, etc. If you have to clean it, use denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. Do not use any other cleaning agent because damage to the optical lens will occur. 10. Disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the regulator/rectifier. 11. Using the Piercing Probes, check the resistance, then check the DVA voltage on the 6 pin stator connector while connected as follows: Red Lead Black Lead Resistance DVA Reading Orange Orange/Black 50-60 ohms 12 V or more Brown Brown/Yellow 450-600 ohms 150V or more Note: Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that require checking. Service note: It is recommended that liquid neoprene be applied to the areas where the piercing probes were used. 12. If all the tests so far show good readings, check the DVA output from the power pack on the primary coil wires as follows: Red Lead Black Lead DVA Reading Orange/Blue Engine Ground 130 V or more Orange/Green Engine Ground 130 V or more Note: If the DVA values are below these specifications, the power pack or sensor is likely bad. 13. Check the DVA voltage on the Black/Orange and Orange/Red sensors leads as follows: Red Lead Black Lead DVA Reading Orange/Red Engine Ground 12 V or more Black/Orange Engine Ground 12 V or more WARNING!! The Black/Orange wire should NEVER be shorted to engine ground as this will damage the sensor. 14. If an oscilloscope is available, check the white/blue (crank position signal) and white/green (cylinder position signal) sensor wires while connected to the sensor. With the engine cranking over, you should see a square toothed pattern on both wires. The white/blue wire should show 1 pulse per revolution and the white/green should show 7 pulses per revolution of the engine. See chart below.
133-6343 Optical Sensor
LED Ret. Power Ground Sync Cyl
A B C D E Scope

10 Dwell

Sync

Cyl
C0 Offset for Anti-Reverse Detection C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6

f. g. h. i. j.

Led Power Black/Orange Power Orange Red Ground Black Sync White/Blue Stripe Cyl White/Green

37

No Spark on One Bank of Cylinders: 1. If the power pack has no spark on one bank and the readings are good, replace the power pack. 2. Disconnect the 4-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow wire is shorted to engine ground. 3. Check to see if the Shift Interrupter switch is shorted.

Port 4 Pin Connector

a) b) c) d) Black/Yellow Tan White/Black Yellow/Red

Starboard 4 Pin Connector

a) Brown b) Orange/Black c) Orange d) Brown/Yellow

High Speed Miss: 1. If the engine runs fine until you get above 4900 RPM and then starts missing, check the Orange to Orange/Black power coil wires with an oscilloscope (If available) or replace the pack. A breakdown inside the pack could cause RFI noise to activate the rev limiter for no apparent reason. 2. Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage at the RPM where the problem is occurring while connected as follows: Red Lead Black Lead DVA Brown Brown/Yellow 150V +
NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 400 volts (voltage exceeding 400 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator charge coil.

3.

Connect an inductive tachometer to the spark plug wires one at a time and compare the readings. If most of the cylinders show the same reading and one or two show different readings, check the primary wires with the inductive pickup to see if the readings are the same coming out of the power pack. A difference in readings between the primary and secondary coil wires usually indicate a bad coil or bad ignition wires. No difference indicates a bad power pack.

Will Not Rev Above Idle Speed or Only Has Spark as Long as the Starter Solenoid is Activated: Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage while connected as follows: Red Lead Black Lead DVA Orange Orange/Black 11-24V NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 24 volts (voltage exceeding 24 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator winding. A sharp drop in voltage when you let off of the starter solenoid indicates a bad power coil on the stator.

Engine Will Not Rev Above 2500 RPM and Shakes Hard (SLOW Activated): 1. Verify the engine is not actually over-heating by using a digital pyrometer. 2. Check the routing of the tan temperature wires, an example of a bad location is shown below. The tan wires have to be located as far away as possible from the spark plug wires.

38

Johnson/Evinrude Optical Ignition Troubleshooting

(Unacceptable routing for the temp wire.) 3. 4. Verify the engine is not overheating and disconnect the Tan temperature sensor wire. If the engine performs normally, check both temperature sensors and replace the defective one. If there is not any indication of a problem at this point, replace the power pack.

Engine stays in QuickStart All of the Time: Check the Yellow/Red wire for 12 volts while the engine is running. You should only see voltage on this wire while the starter solenoid is engaged.

39

Mercury
Battery CD Ignitions with Points 1. SERVICE NOTE: Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500-RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts. Over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application. A CD Tester (CDI Electronics P/N: 511-9701) can be used to test the CD module, distributor cap, rotor button and spark plug wires on the engine.
Engine Wiring Connection for Testing Ignition Module

Clean all battery connections and engine grounds. Disconnect the mercury tilt switch and retest. If the ignition works properly, replace the mercury switch. Connect a spark gap tester to the spark plug wires and check for fire on all cylinders. If some cylinders fire and not others, the problem is likely in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. 5. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately 7/16. When you crank the engine over, if it fires while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not fire through the spark plug wires there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. 6. Check voltage present on the white and red terminals while at cranking. It MUST be at least 9 volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter battery cables or battery. 7. Check DVA voltage on the green wire going to the coil, it should be over 100 volts at cranking. 8. Disconnect the brown points wires. Turn the ignition switch on and strike one of the brown points wire against engine ground. The unit should fire each time. If the coil does fire, this means the CD module is usually good and the points, points plate and grounding wire for the points plate should be checked. 9. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the brown points wire against engine ground (Or use a CD Tester). Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any other spark plug wire now has fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders. 10. Perform a voltage drop test after the engine is repaired to see if there is a problem with the voltage going to the CD module. At cranking and while the engine is running, use a DC voltmeter and put the black meter lead on the battery POS (+) post and the red meter lead on the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid. Keep the black lead on the battery post and shift the red meter lead to the positive post of the rectifier, then to the red and white terminals on the switch box. If you find a reading above 0.6V, there is a problem at the point where the voltage jumped up. For example, if the meter reads 0.4V until you get to the white terminal and then jumps to 2.3V on the white terminal this indicates a problem in the key switch, or harness. Repeat the test for the negative battery post by putting the black meter lead on the battery NEG (-) post and the red meter lead on the negative battery cable terminal, then shifting to the engine block, rectifier base and case ground of the CD module.

2. 3. 4.

40

Mercury
Battery CD Ignitions without Points
Three Cylinder Engines with 332-4796/393-4797 Battery Type Ignitions
Note: A CD Tester by CDI Electronics (511-9701) or Merc-o-Tronics can be used to test the CD module, distributor cap, rotor button and spark plug wires on the engine while the Trigger Tester by CDI can be used to test the distributor trigger. SERVICE NOTE: Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500 RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts and minimum is 12V. Running below 12V or over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application. Engine Wiring Connection for Testing Ignition Module

General:
1. 2. 3. 4. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds. Disconnect the mercury tilt switch and retest. If the ignition works properly, replace the mercury switch. Connect a spark gap tester to the spark plug wires and check for fire on all cylinders. If some cylinders fire and not others, the problem is likely in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. Perform a voltage drop test after the engine is repaired to see if there is a problem with the voltage going to the CD module. At cranking and while the engine is running, use a DC voltmeter and put the black meter lead on the battery POS (+) post and the red meter lead on the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid. Keep the black lead on the battery post and shift the red meter lead to the positive post of the rectifier, then to the red and white terminals on the switch box. If you find a reading above 0.6V, there is a problem at the point where the voltage jumped up. For example, if the meter reads 0.4V until you get to the white terminal and then jumps to 2.3V on the white terminal this indicates a problem in the key switch, or harness. Repeat the test for the negative battery post by putting the black meter lead on the battery NEG (-) post and the red meter lead on the negative battery cable terminal, then shifting to the engine block, rectifier base and case ground of the CD module. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately 7/16. When you crank the engine over, if it fires while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not fire through the spark plug wires there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. Check the DC voltage present on the white and red terminals while at cranking. It MUST be at least 9 volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter battery cables or battery. Check the DC voltage on the white/black trigger terminal while cranking, there must be at least 9V available with the trigger wire connected. Check DVA voltage between the blue and black trigger wires (they must be connected to the switch box). You should read at least 3V. A low reading indicates a bad trigger. Check DVA voltage on the green wire going to the coil, it should be over 100 volts at cranking.

Mercury Troubleshooting

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1.

2. 3. 4. 5.

ONLY HAS SPARK AS LONG AS THE STARTER IS ENGAGED:

This symptom usually indicates a bad trigger or low voltage.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER: 1. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16. 2. 3. 4.
Use of a CD Tester is highly recommended. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Disconnect the trigger wires and connect a jumper wire from the white/black trigger terminal to the black trigger terminal on the switch box. Connect another jumper wire to the blue trigger terminal turn the ignition switch on. Strike the jumper wire from the blue terminal against engine ground (DO NOT HOLD THE JUMPER AGAINST ENGINE GROUND). Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any other spark plug wire now has fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.

41

HIGH SPEED MISS: Check the battery voltage on the red and white terminals of the switch box at high speed, the voltage should be between 12.5V and 16V DC. A reading outside this range will damage the CD module. If the readings are abnormal, perform the voltage drop test described above.

Four and Six Cylinder Engines with 332-2986/393-3736 Battery Type Ignitions
Note: A CD Tester like the one by CDI Electronics or Merc-o-Tronics can be used to test the CD module, distributor cap, rotor button and spark plug wires on the engine while the Trigger Tester by CDI can be used to test the distributor trigger. SERVICE NOTE: Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500 RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts and minimum is 12V. Running below 12V or over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application. Engine Wiring Connection for Testing Ignition Module

General:
1. 2. 3. 4. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds. Disconnect the mercury tilt switch and retest. If the ignition works properly, replace the mercury switch. Connect a spark gap tester to the spark plug wires and check for fire on all cylinders. If some cylinders fire and not others, the problem is likely in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. Perform a voltage drop test after the engine is repaired to see if there is a problem with the voltage going to the CD module. At cranking and while the engine is running, use a DC voltmeter and put the black meter lead on the battery POS (+) post and the red meter lead on the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid. Keep the black lead on the battery post and shift the red meter lead to the positive post of the rectifier, then to the red and white terminals on the switch box. If you find a reading above 0.6V, there is a problem at the point where the voltage jumped up. For example, if the meter reads 0.4V until you get to the white terminal and then jumps to 2.3V on the white terminal this indicates a problem in the key switch, or harness. Repeat the test for the negative battery post by putting the black meter lead on the battery NEG (-) post and the red meter lead on the negative battery cable terminal, then shifting to the engine block, rectifier base and case ground of the CD module. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately 7/16. When you crank the engine over, if it fires while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not fire through the spark plug wires there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. Check the DC voltage present on the white and red terminals while at cranking. It MUST be at least 9 volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter battery cables or battery. Check the DC voltage on the brown trigger terminal while cranking, there must be at least 9V available with the trigger wire connected. Check DVA voltage between the white and black trigger wires (they must be connected to the switch box). You should read at least 3V. A low reading indicates a bad trigger. Check DVA voltage on the green wire going to the coil, it should be over 100 volts at cranking.

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1.

2. 3. 4. 5.

42

ONLY HAS SPARK AS LONG AS THE STARTER IS ENGAGED:

This symptom usually indicates a bad trigger or low voltage.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. 2. 3. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16. (Use of a CD Tester is recommended). Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Disconnect the trigger wires and connect a jumper wire from the brown trigger terminal to the white trigger terminal. Connect another jumper wire to the black trigger terminal turn the ignition switch on. Strike the jumper wire from the black terminal against engine ground (DO NO HOLD THE JUMPER AGAINST ENGINE GROUND). Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any other spark plug wire has fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders. Check the battery voltage on the red and white terminals of the switch box at high speed, the voltage should be between 12.5V and 16V DC. A reading outside this range will damage the CD module. If the readings are abnormal, perform the voltage drop test described above. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a high miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.

4. 1.

HIGH SPEED MISS:

2.

Four Cylinder Engines

1970-1971 Engines with 337-4406/337-4411 Ignitions
WARNING: Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500 RPM, MAXIMUM allowable reading is 16 volts and minimum is 12V. Running below 12V or over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application. SERVICE NOTE: Due to problems associated with this system, it is recommended that the system be converted over to a 3322986/393-3736 type system. (CDI Electronics offers a conversion kit, P/N 114-2986K1) Engine Wiring Connection for Testing Ignition 337-4411 Module

Mercury Troubleshooting

General:
1. 2. 3. 4. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds. Disconnect the mercury tilt switch and retest. If the ignition works properly, replace the mercury switch. Connect a spark gap tester to the spark plug wires and check for fire on all cylinders. If some cylinders fire and not others, the problem is likely in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. Perform a voltage drop test after the engine is repaired to see if there is a problem with the voltage going to the CD module. At cranking and while the engine is running, use a DC voltmeter and put the black meter lead on the battery POS (+) post and the red meter lead on the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid. Keep the black lead on the battery post and shift the red meter lead to the positive post of the rectifier, then to the red and white terminals on the switch box. If you find a reading above 0.6V, there is a problem at the point where the voltage jumped up. For instance, if the meter reads 0.4V until you get to the white terminal and then jumps to 2.3V on the white terminal this indicates a problem in the key switch, or harness. Repeat the test for the negative battery post by putting the black meter lead on the battery NEG (-) post and the red meter lead on the negative battery cable terminal, then shifting to the engine block, rectifier base and case ground of the CD module.

43

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. 2. If a mercury switch is connected to the switch box, disconnect it and retest. If you now have spark, replace the mercury switch. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately 7/16. When you crank the engine over, if it fires while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not fire through the spark plug wires there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. Check the DC voltage present on the white trigger wire and the red terminal of the switch box while cranking. It MUST be at least 9 volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter, battery cables or battery. Check DVA voltage between the blue terminal and engine ground while cranking (The trigger wire must be connected to the switch box). You should read at least 9V. Disconnect the wire from the blue terminal of the switch box and connect a jumper wire to the terminal. Strike the other end of the jumper wire against engine ground. The CD module should fire each time. Failure to fire usually indicates a bad CD module. Check DVA voltage on the green wire going to the coil, it should be over 100 volts at cranking. Connect a spark gap tester to the spark plug wires coming from the distributor cap and set the air gap to approximately 7/16. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Disconnect the wire from the blue terminal of the switch box and connect a jumper wire to the terminal. Strike the other end of the jumper wire against engine ground. Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any other spark plug wire has fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.

3. 4. 5.

6.
1. 2.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

3.

NOTICE: The 4 cylinder engines using the 332-3213 ignition module and belt driven ignition driver DO NOT USE BATTERY VOLTAGE. Connecting 12V to the Red terminal will destroy the module.

44

Mercury Trigger Magnets

THE FLYWHEELS WITH THESE MAGNET DESIGNS CANNOT BE INTERCHANGED!!!!

Mercury CDM Hub Magnet Design

1996 to 2006 2, 3 and 4 cylinder engines with CDM Modules Single Ended Timer Base Coil

Unipolar Hub Magnet

N
CDM Trigger Circuit Board

Mercury Troubleshooting

Mercury Hub Magnet Design

Push-Pull Trigger Coil Design (1978-1996 on 2, 3 and 4 Cyl engines All 1978-2005 L6, 2.0L, 2.4L and 2.5L engines)

N S
The breaks in the magnets cannot be seen due to the metal cover

S N

Trigger out

Trigger out

Note that the design of the magnet for the push-pull is the same for the 3, 4 and 6 cylinder engines using standard ADI ignitions. The trigger magnet for the CDM modules is completely different.

45

Mercury
Alternator Driven Ignitions
Two Cylinder Engines 1971-1975 (With Phase-Maker Ignition) NO SPARK ON ONE OR BOTH CYLINDERS:
1. Disconnect the orange stop and retest. If the engine now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault. 2. Check the Stator resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Red wire Yellow wire 320-550 Not Available Blue wire Yellow wire 3600-5500 Not Available Green wire Engine Ground -180V or more Connected 2. Disconnect the points wires (Brown and White) one at a time and retest. If the spark comes back on the one still connected when you disconnect one of them, the points or points wire is defective for the disconnected cylinder. 3. Disconnect the Green wires one at a time and retest If the spark comes back on one cylinder, the ignition coil not connected is defective. Remember that the coils must not be the Black or Blue coils (these coils are not isolated ground). 4. Test the 336-4516 module as follows:

46

Mercury
Two Cylinder Engines 1974-1985 (With the 336-3962 or 336-3996 Stator/Switch Box)
WARNING!! DO NOT START AND RUN THIS ENGINE ON A FLUSHING ATTACHMENT OR EAR MUFFS AND ACTIVATE THE STOP CIRCUIT. This system operates with the orange stop wire normally shorted to ground. When you activate the stop circuit, you open the oranges connection to ground. The resulting backlash into the stator may damage the electronics. You must use the choke to stop the engine. In the water, the back pressure from the exhaust will slow the engine quickly enough to prevent damage to the stator. Note: The insulator blocks used with this stator are very important. You are strongly advised to closely inspect the points wires and insulator blocks for cracking or arcing. This system operates at a much higher voltage than the normal systems and what would be acceptable on other systems will cause arcing problems.

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the Orange stop wire and retest. If the ignition system now has spark, the stop circuit has a problem. 2. Use a jumper wire and short the orange (Salmon) wire to ground. If the engine now has spark, replace the stop switch. 3. Disconnect the points wires from the ignition coils and connect a jumper wire to the negative side of the coils. Crank the engine and carefully tap the jumper to engine ground, if the coil sparks check the points and points wires. If it fails to spark, inspect the ignition coil. You should have either a red, orange or green coil with a bare braided ground wire coming out of the backside of the coil. This bare braided ground wire MUST be connected to a clean engine ground. You cannot use a black or blue ignition coil. NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the points wires from the ignition coils and swap them for a cranking test. Crank the engine over and see if the spark moves to a different coil. If it does, you have a problem in the points, points wire or insulator block for the cylinder not sparking. 2. If the spark remains on the same coil when you swap the points wires and it is the coil where the green wire is coming from the stator, remove the green jumper wire. Swap the green wire coming from the stator from one coil to the other coil. If the spark moves to the other coil, replace the green jumper wire connecting the two coils. 3. Check the ignition coil. You should have approximately 1,000 (1 K ohm) of resistance from the spark plug wire to engine ground. 4. Inspect the ignition coils. You should have either a red, orange or green coil with a bare braided ground wire coming out of the backside of the coil. This bare braided ground wire MUST be connected to a clean engine ground. You cannot use a black or blue ignition coil.

Mercury Troubleshooting

Green Jumper Wire (High Voltage)

Orange or Salmon Wire (Stop Wire) Must be grounded thru the stop switch to run on two cylinder engine (opens the ground path to stop engine). Connect to engine ground for a one cylinder engine

Brown wire from Points

White wire from points

Engine ground 47

Mercury
Two Cylinder Engines 1974-1985 (With the 339-5287 or 339-6222 Switch Box) NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. Disconnect the Orange stop wire and retest. If the ignition system now has spark, the stop circuit has a problem. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output: WIRE Read To RESISTANCE DVA Orange Engine GND 1600-1800 (800-900 per coil) 180V or more Brown White* 140-160 0.5V or more Note: Some units had used a trigger that has 2 Brown wires instead of a Brown and White. Inspect the ignition coils. You should have either a red, orange or green coil with a bare braided ground wire coming out of the backside of the coil. This bare braided ground wire MUST be connected to a clean engine ground. You cannot use a black or blue ignition coil. Check the ignition coils as follows: Check resistance from + to terminal reading should be 0.2-1.0 ohms and 800-1100 ohms from the high tension lead to engine ground. There should be no connection from the terminal to engine ground. Check the flywheel for broken magnets.

3.

4. 5. 1. 2.

ENGINE HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT RUN: Index the flywheel and check the timing. If it is out by 180 degrees, swap the trigger wires to the switch box. If the timing is off by any other degree, check the flywheel key.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. Check the DVA output between the Green wire and Green/Whites from the switch box, also between the Blue and Blue/White wires while they are connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the wires from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad switch box. Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder and compare the RPM readings at the RPM where the problem is occurring. If only one cylinder is dropping out, swap the ignition coil locations and retest. If the problem follows a coil, replace the coil. If it stays on the same spark plug, replace the switch box. Check the flywheel magnets to see if one has come loose and moved.

2.

3.

Mercury
Two Cylinder Engines 1974-1985 (With the 332-4911 or 332-4733 Switch Box) NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. Disconnect the Orange (or Black/Yellow) stop wire and retest. If the ignition system now has spark, the stop circuit has a problem. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output: WIRE Read To RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA Blue Engine GND 3500-5500 180V or more Red Engine GND 450-550 20V or more Brown White* 140-160 0.5V or more

3. Check the flywheel for broken magnets. ENGINE HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT RUN: 1. Index the flywheel and check the timing. If it is out by 180 degrees, swap the trigger wires to the switch box. 2. If the timing is off by any other degree, check the flywheel key.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. Check the DVA output from the switch box on the Green wires while they are connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the wires from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad switch box. Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder and compare the RPM readings at the RPM where the problem is occurring. If only one cylinder is dropping out, swap the ignition coil locations and retest. If the problem follows a coil, replace the coil. If it stays on the same spark plug, replace the switch box. Check the flywheel magnets to see if one has come loose and moved.

2.

3.

48

Mercury
Two Cylinder Engines 1979-1996 (With the 332-7452 Switch Box) NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wire and retest. If the ignition system now has spark, the stop circuit has a problem. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output: WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA Black/Yellow Engine GND 3250-3650 2200-2400 180V or more Black/White Engine GND 150-250 200-250 25V or more Brown/Yellow Brown/White 750-1400 925-1050 4V or more Brown/Yellow Engine GND Open Open 1V or more Brown/White Engine GND Open Open 1V or more

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:

Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad switch box. 2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below: Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) (*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad. 3. Connect a inductive tach to each cylinder and compare the RPM readings at the RPM where the problem is occurring. If only one cylinder is dropping out, swap the ignition coil locations and retest. If the problem follows a coil, replace the coil. If it stays on the same spark plug, replace the switch box. Check the flywheel magnets to see if one has come loose and moved. 1.

Mercury Troubleshooting

4.

WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOUND 3000-4000 RPM: 1. Check the stator resistance and DVA output: WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE DVA Black/Yellow Engine GND 3250-3650 2200-2400 180V or more Black/White Engine GND 150-250 200-250 25V or more 2. Connect a DVA meter to the Black/White wire/terminal and while under load, run the engine up to the RPM where the problem is occurring. The stator high speed voltage should increase with RPM. If the stator voltage falls off or if it does not increase with RPM, replace the stator. 3. Connect an inductive tach to each cylinder and compare the RPM readings at the RPM where the problem is occurring. If only one cylinder is dropping out, swap the ignition coil locations and retest. If the problem follows a coil, replace the coil. If it stays on the same spark plug, replace the switch box. If both cylinders become intermittent, replace the switch box.

Two Cylinder Engines 1994-1996 (With the 18495A4, A5, A6, A8, A11 or A13 Switch Box)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. 3. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engines ignition now has spark now, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Black Stator
WIRE Blue Red Read To Blue/White Red/White OEM RESISTANCE 3250-3650 75-90 CDI RESISTANCE 500-600 28-32 CDI RESISTANCE 500-600 DVA 180V or more 25V or more DVA 180V or more DVA 180V or more

Red Stator
WIRE White/Green WIRE Blue Read To Green/White Read To Engine GND OEM RESISTANCE 500-700 OEM RESISTANCE OPEN

Red Stator Adapter (Not Available from CDI)

49

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive an Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder. 2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below: Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) (*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad. 3. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:

1. 2. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders misfiring usually indicate a bad stator. Connect a DVA meter between the stators blue wire and blue/white wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (read the blue wire to engine ground if the engine has a red stator kit installed). Connect a DVA meter between the stators red wire and red/white wires. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the reading on the blue wire indicates a bad stator. If both cylinders become intermittent, replace the switch box. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

3. 4. 5. 6.

Two Cylinder Engines 1994-1996 (With the 18495A9, A14, A16, A20, A21 or A30 Switch Box)
NOTE: This engine has a locked trigger arm. Therefore, the timing is controlled by the switch box and is adjusted according to the engine RPM. RPM limiting is done by retarding the timing at high RPMs. Where possible, it is recommended that the ignition system be changed over to either the newer type ignition or the older type of ignition.

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. 2. 3. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engines ignition now has spark now, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Stator
WIRE Blue Red Black 1. 2. Read To Black Black Eng Gnd OEM RESISTANCE 2900-3500 100-180 Open CDI RESISTANCE 2200-2600 200-250 Open DVA 180V or more connected 25V or more connected 2V or more connected

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:

If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive an Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below: Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) (*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

3.

50

Two Cylinder Engines 1994-1996 (With the 18495A9, A14, A16, A20, A21 or A30 Switch Box)
(Continued)

WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:

1. 2. 3. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders misfiring usually indicate a bad stator. Connect a timing light to #1 cylinder and verify that the timing is advancing. Also check to make sure the timing is not retarding too early. Connect a DVA meter between the stators blue wire and black wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (read the blue wire to engine ground if the engine has a red stator kit installed). Connect a DVA meter between the stators red wire and black wires. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the reading on the blue wire indicates a bad stator. If both cylinders become intermittent, replace the switch box. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

4.

5. 6. 7.

Two Cylinder Engines 1994-2006 (With the 855721A3 & A4 Switch Box)
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. 3. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engines ignition now has spark now, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: WIRE Green/White Green/White White/Green Brown/White Brown/White Brown/Yellow Read To White/Green Eng Gnd Eng Gnd Brown/Yellow Eng Gnd Eng Gnd 660-710 Open Open 850-1100 Open Open OEM Ohms CDI Ohms DVA 350-450 180V minimum connected Open None disconnected Open None disconnected 850-1100 4V minimum connected Open None disconnected Open None disconnected

Mercury Troubleshooting

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. 2. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive an Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below: Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading Brown/White Brown/Yellow 850-1100 4V minimum connected Brown/White Eng Gnd Open 1V or more (*) Brown/Yellow Eng Gnd Open 1V or more (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad.

3.

Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. Connect a DVA meter between the stators Green/White wire and White/Green wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs usually indicates a bad stator. If both cylinders become intermittent, replace the switch box if the stator tests good. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:

1. 2.

3. 4. 5.

51

Three Cylinder Engines

1976-1996 Three Cylinder Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Three Ignition Coils NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. 3. 4. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engines ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Flywheel with Bolted-in Magnets

WIRE Blue Engine Red WIRE Blue Engine Red Read To GND Engine GND Read To GND Engine GND OEM RESISTANCE 5800-7000 135-165 OEM RESISTANCE 3250-3650 75-90 OEM RESISTANCE 500-700 OPEN CDI RESISTANCE 2200-2400 45-55 CDI RESISTANCE 500-600 28-32 CDI RESISTANCE 500-600 DVA 180V or more 25V or more DVA 180V or more 25V or more DVA 180V or more 180V or more

Flywheel with Glued-in Magnets

Red Stator Kit

WIRE Read To White/Green Green/White Blue Engine GND 1. 2.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect a inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected White wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected Purple wire White/Black 800-1400 4V or more Connected Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) (*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both terminals. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading symptom indicates a bad power pack. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders misfiring usually indicate a bad stator. Connect a DVA meter to the stators blue wire and engine ground and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (blue to engine ground if the engine has a red stator kit installed). Connect a DVA meter to the stators red wire and engine ground and do a running test. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the reading on the blue wire indicates a bad stator. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under No spark or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

3.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:

1. 2.

3.

HIGH SPEED MISS:

1.

2.

3. 4.
1. 2.

Rotate the stator 1 bolt hole in either direction and retest.

Check the Bias resistance from the Black/White terminal to engine ground. Reading should be 14-15,000 ohms. Check for air leaks.

WILL NOT IDLE BELOW 1500 RPM:

52

Four Cylinder Engines

(With Ignition Driver Distributors) WARNING!! DO NOT CONNECT 12VDC TO THE IGNITION MODULE AS DC VOLTAGE WILL BURN OUT THE SWITCH BOX AND IGNITION DRIVER. NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. Disconnect the orange stop wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engines ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and mercury tilt switch. Check the Ignition Driver resistance and DVA output: Wire Color Read to Function Resistance DVA Reading Red White wire Cranking Winding 400 ohms 180V+ Blue White wire High Speed Winding 10 Ohms 20V+ Green Engine Gnd Pack output N/A 150V+ White Common for Ignition Driver (DOES NOT CONNECT TO ENGINE GND) Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

3.

NO SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

If only one or two cylinders are not firing on this system, the problem is going to be either in the distributor cap or spark plug wires.

Four Cylinder Engines

1978-1996 Four Cylinder Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Four Ignition Coils NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engines ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and mercury tilt switch. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. Verify the correct flywheel is installed. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as shown below: WIRE Blue Red WIRE Blue Red WIRE White/Green Blue Blue (Each) 1. 2. Read To Blue/White Red/White Read To Blue/White Red/White Flywheel with Bolted-in Magnets OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE 5000-7000 2200-2400 125-155 45-55 Flywheel with Glued-in Magnets OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE 3250-3650 500-600 75-90 28-32 DVA 180V or more 180V or more 180V or more DVA 180V or more 25V or more DVA 180V or more 25V or more

Mercury Troubleshooting

Red Stator Read To OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE Green/White 500-700 500-600 Blue OPEN Ground OPEN

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Purple wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected Brown wire White/Black wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) White/Black wire Engine GND Open 1V or more (*) (*) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad.

Note: If #1 and #2, or #3 and #4 are misfiring, check the trigger as described above. The trigger has two coils firing four cylinders. #1 & 2 share a trigger coil and #3 & 4 share a trigger coil. Also, the switch box is divided into two parts. The #1 and #2 cylinders are fired on one side and #3 and #4 are fired from the other side of the switch box. If the trigger tests are okay according to the chart above, but you have two cylinders not firing (either #1 and #2, or #3 and #4), the switch box or stator is bad.

53

3.

4.

If you have two cylinders not firing (either #1 and #2, or #3 and #4), switch the stator leads end to end on the switch box (red with red/white and blue with blue/white). If the problem moves to the other cylinders, the stator is bad. It the problem stayed on the same cylinders, the switch box is likely bad. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both terminals. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading symptom indicates a bad power pack. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. If two cylinders on the same end of the switch box are dropping out, the problem is likely going to be either the switch box or trigger. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders misfiring usually indicate a bad stator. Connect a DVA meter to the stators blue wire and blue/white wires and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (Check from blue to blue if the engine has a red stator kit installed). Connect a DVA meter to the red wire and red/white wires and do a running test. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than the reading on the blue wires indicates a bad stator. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets. Index the flywheel and check the timing on all cylinders. If the timing cannot be adjusted correctly or if the timing is off on one cylinder, replace the trigger. Check for air leaks. Check synchronization of the carburetors.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:

1.

2.

3.

HIGH SPEED MISS:

1.

2. 3. 1. 2. 3.

WILL NOT IDLE BELOW 1500 RPM:

Inline 6 and V6 Carbureted Engines Using Dual Switch Boxes and Six Ignition Coils
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. 3. 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engines ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as shown below: WIRE (Read to Engine ground) Blue Blue/White Red Red/White WIRE (Read to Engine ground) Blue Blue/White Red Red/White 2. 9 to 16 Amp Battery Charging Capacity OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE 5000-7000 2200-2400 5000-7000 2200-2400 90-200 30-90 90-200 30-90 40 Amp Battery Charging Capacity OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE 3200-4200 2200-2400 3200-4200 2200-2400 90-140 90-110 90-140 90-110 DVA 180V or more 180V or more 25V or more 25V or more DVA 150V or more 150V or more 20V or more 20V or more

NO SPARK ON ONE BANK (3 OF 6 ON THE INLINE L-6):

Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both terminals on all cylinders. If the reading is low on one bank and the stator voltage is good, the switch box is usually bad. (Note: A final test to verify which component is bad is to swap the stator leads from one switch box to the other. If the problem moves, the stator is bad. If the same bank still does not fire, the switch box is usually bad.) 3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

1. 2. Connect a spark gap tester and verify which cylinders are misfiring. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as shown below:

54

BLACK SLEEVE TO YELLOW SLEEVE Resistance DVA Reading Brown wire White wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected White wire Purple wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected Purple wire Brown wire 800-1400 4V or more Connected Service Note: You should get a high or open resistance reading to engine ground from each wire, but you will get a DVA reading of approximately 1-2 Volts. This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For example, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad. 3. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both terminals. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading symptom indicates a bad power pack. Connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. If two or more cylinders on the same bank are dropping out, the problem is likely going to be either the stator or the switch box. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely mean the switch box or ignition coil is defective. Check the stator resistance: 9 to 16 Amp Battery Charging Capacity WIRE (Read to Engine ground) OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE Blue 5000-7000 2200-2400 Blue/White 5000-7000 2200-2400 Red 90-200 30-90 Red/White 90-200 30-90 WIRE (Read to Engine ground) Blue Blue/White Red Red/White 40 Amp Battery Charging Capacity OEM RESISTANCE CDI RESISTANCE 3400-4200 2200-2400 3400-4200 2200-2400 90-140 90-110 90-140 90-110

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:

1.

2.

Mercury Troubleshooting

3.

Connect a DVA meter to the Blue wire and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. Repeat for the blue/white wire and compare the readings.
WIRE (Read to Engine ground) CRANKING 1000 RPM Blue 100-265 195-265 Blue/White 100-265 195-265 Red 25-50 120-160 Red/White 25-50 120-160 White/Black* 1-6 3-15 - This voltage is read with an analog DC volt meter Not a DVA meter. 3000 RPM 255-345 255-345 230-320 230-320 10-30

4. Check the trigger as follows:

WIRE Brown (Black Sleeve) White (Black Sleeve) Purple (Black Sleeve) Read to White (Yellow Sleeve) Purple (Yellow Sleeve) Brown (Yellow Sleeve) OEM RESISTANCE 1100-1400 1100-1400 1100-1400 CDI RESISTANCE 800-1000 800-1000 800-1000 DVA @ CRANKING 4V or more 4V or more 4V or more

Service Note: You should get a high or open resistance reading to engine ground from each wire, but you will get a DVA reading of approximately 1-2 Volts. This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For example, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cylinder is low disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low the trigger is bad.

High Speed Miss: 1. Connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders. 2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

55

Two Cylinder Engines 1996-2006

Engines Using a Combination Switch Box and Ignition Coil (CDM Modules) NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires from the harness and retest. If the engines ignition sparks, the stop circuit has a fault- check the key switch, harness and shift switch. Swap the White/Green and Green White stator wire and retest. If the problem moves to the other cylinder, the stator is likely bad. Disconnect one CDM module at a time and using a set of piercing probes and jumper wires- short the stator and trigger wire in the CDM connector to engine ground. Retest. If the other module starts sparking, the CDM you unplugged is bad. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as follows: WIRE White/Green 7. Read to OEM RESISTANCE Green/White 500-700 CDI RESISTANCE 500-600 DVA 180V or more

Check the resistance of the CDM as follows: Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading CDM Pin # A C 700-1300 Ohms CDM Pin # D A DIODE* CDM Pin # A D DIODE* CDM Pin # D B DIODE* CDM Pin # B D DIODE* CDM Pin # A B DIODE* CDM Pin # B A DIODE* High Tension Lead A 700-1300 Ohms * Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other. NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER: 1. If the cylinders are only misfiring up above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. 2. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger DVA output as shown below: Wire Color Check To (Wire Color) Resistance DVA Reading White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more 3. If # 1 is not sparking, swap the White/Green and Green White stator wire and retest. If the problem moves to the #2 cylinder, the stator is likely bad. If no change, swap locations with #2 and see if the problem moves. If it does, the module is bad. A continued no spark condition on the same cylinder indicates a bad trigger. Check the resistance of the CDM as follows: Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading CDM Pin # A C 700-1300 Ohms CDM Pin # D A DIODE* CDM Pin # D B DIODE* CDM Pin # A B DIODE* High Tension Lead A 700-1300 Ohms * Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other.

4.

High Speed Miss: 1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the trigger or CDM module. 2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracked or broken magnets.

56

Three Cylinder Engines

1996-2006 Engines Using CDM Modules NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires from the harness and retest. If the engines ignition now sparks, the stop circuit has a fault- check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Disconnect one CDM module at a time and see if the other modules start sparking. If they do, the module you just unplugged is bad. If the bottom two CDM modules are not sparking, swap the connection between the top and middle cylinder. If the middle cylinder starts sparking, replace the top CDM. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below: WIRE White/Green 7. Read To OEM RESISTANCE Green/White 500-700 CDI RESISTANCE 500-600 DVA 180V or more

Check the resistance of the CDM as follows: Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading CDM Pin # A C 700-1300 Ohms CDM Pin # D A DIODE* CDM Pin # A D DIODE* CDM Pin # D B DIODE* CDM Pin # B D DIODE* CDM Pin # A B DIODE* CDM Pin # B A DIODE* High Tension Lead A 700-1300 Ohms * Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other. NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS: 1. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. 2. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger DVA output as shown below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more NOTE: These triggers have the bias circuitry internally built-in, therefore you cannot measure the resistance like you can measure on the older engines. 3. If # 1 CDM module is not sparking, disconnect the #2 CDM module and see if the #1 CDM module starts sparking. If it does, the module you just unplugged is bad. If it does not, reconnect #2, then disconnect the #3 CDM module and see if the #1 module starts sparking. If it does, the module you just unplugged is bad. If there is no spark ire on either # 2 or #3, swap locations with #1 and see if the problem moves. If it does, the module is bad. A continued no spark on the same cylinder indicates a bad trigger.

4.

Mercury/Force CDM Troubleshooting

HIGH SPEED MISS: 1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the trigger or CDM module. 2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets. 4. Use the diagram below to help in locating the area where the problem may be. Remember a short in #1 can cause either

#2 and #3 not to have spark. By the same reason, a problem in either #2 or #3 can cause #1 not to have spark.

57

Four Cylinder Engines

1996-2006 Engines Using CDM Modules NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires from the harness and RPM Limiter. Retest. If the engines ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch. 2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. 4. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below: WIRE White/Green 5. Read To Green/White OEM RESISTANCE 500-700 CDI RESISTANCE 500-600 DVA 180V or more Reading 700-1300 Ohms DIODE* DIODE* DIODE* DIODE* DIODE* DIODE* 700-1300 Ohms

Check the resistance of the CDM as follows: Red Meter Lead CDM Pin # A CDM Pin # D CDM Pin # A CDM Pin # D CDM Pin # B CDM Pin # A CDM Pin # B High Tension Lead

Black Meter Lead C A D B D B A A

Note: Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

1. 2. 3.

If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. Disconnect the CDMs one at a time and see if you get spark back on the problem cylinders. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Purple wire Engine GND Open 3V or more White wire Engine GND Open 3V or more Brown wire Engine GND Open 3V or more White/Black wire Engine GND Open 3V or more
NOTE: These triggers have the bias circuitry internally built-in, therefore you cannot measure the resistance like you can measure on the older engines. In addition, these engines use four triggering coils versus the two triggering coils used on the older engines.

4.

Disconnect one of the CDM modules that are firing one at a time and see if the dead CDM starts firing. If it does, the CDM you just unplugged is bad.

High Speed Miss: 1. Connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under No spark or intermittent spark on any cylinder. 2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets. 4. Use the wiring diagram below as an aid in locating areas where problems may occur. Remember a short in either #1 or #2 can cause either # 3 and #4 not to have spark.

58

Six Cylinder Engines

1996-2005 2.0L and 2.5 L Engines Using CDM Modules NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Inspect the spark plug wires, boots and spark plugs. Check for chafing on the wiring and harnesses. 2. Clean and inspect CDM ground wire connection to engine ground 3. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wires from the harness and RPM Limiter. Retest. If the engines ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch. If there is still no spark, disconnect the CDMs one at a time and see if you get spark back on the other cylinders. A shorted stop circuit in one CDM will prevent ALL cylinders from sparking. 4. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. 5. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. 6. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below: WIRE White/Green 7. Read To Green/White OEM RESISTANCE 500-700 CDI RESISTANCE 500-600 DVA 180V or more Reading 700-1300 Ohms DIODE* DIODE* DIODE* DIODE* DIODE* DIODE* 700-1300 Ohms

Check the resistance of each of the CDMs as follows: Red Meter Lead CDM Pin # A CDM Pin # D CDM Pin # A CDM Pin # D CDM Pin # B CDM Pin # A CDM Pin # B High Tension Lead

Black Meter Lead C A D B D B A A

Note: Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR TWO CYLINDERS:

1. 2. 3. 4.

Inspect the spark plug wires, boots and spark plugs. Check for chafing on the wiring and harnesses Clean and inspect CDM ground wire connection to engine ground. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger Resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color OEM Resistance CDI Resistance DVA Reading Purple wire Blue 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more White wire Red 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more Brown wire Yellow 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more

High Speed Miss: 1. Connect an inductive RPM meter to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the CDM module. 2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets. 4. Index the flywheel and check the timing on ALL cylinders. On carbureted models, the control module rev limi function starts to retard timing in sequence (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 1) at 5800-6000 RPM. The control module will retard the timing each cylinder up to 30 degrees (starting with #2) and then stop firing that cylinder if the RPM is still above the limit. It will continue to retard, then shut down each cylinder until the engine drops below the limit.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON #1, #2 and #3 OR #4, #5 and #6 CYLINDERS:

Mercury/Force CDM Troubleshooting Mercury/Force CDM Troubleshooting

1. 2. 3.

Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. Disconnect the CDMs one at a time and see if you get spark back on the problem cylinders. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below: WIRE White/Green White/Green White/Green Green/White Green/White Read To Green/White Engine Gnd Engine Gnd Engine Gnd Engine Gnd OEM 500-700 ohms Open Open Open Open CDI 500-600 ohms Open Open Open Open DVA 180V or more connected 180V or more connected Less than 2 V disconnected 180V or more connected Less than 2 V disconnected 59

3.

Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger Resistance and DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color OEM Resistance CDI Resistance DVA Reading Purple wire Blue 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more White wire Red 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more Brown wire Yellow 1100-1400 850-1050 4V or more Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger voltage going to the CDMs: Wire Color Check to Wire Color OEM Resistance CDI Resistance DVA Reading Purple wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more White wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more Brown wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more Blue wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more Red wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more Yellow wire Engine GND Open Open 3V or more The connection guide below will assist you in locating areas where problems can occur. Remember a short in either #1, #2 or #3 can cause either # 4, #5 and #6 not to have spark.

4.

5.

60

CDI ELECTRONICS
(DVA) PEAK READING VOLTAGE AND RESISTANCE CHARTS NOTICE: These charts were compiled using the CDI 511-9773 Peak Adapter with a shielded Digital Multimeter. NOTE: The resistance readings are given for a room temperature of 68F. Higher temperatures will cause a slightly higher resistance reading. DVA readings should always be taken with everything hooked up with the exception of the kill circuit. The CDI peak reading voltage adapter is specifically designed to work with shielded Digital Multimeters. This adapter will simplify the testing of electronic ignition systems, stators, sensors and charging systems. The DVA readings will be approximately the same as any other DVA meter and the specifications listed in the service manuals can be followed without problems (Hopefully a little easier to you). The CDI piercing probe set (511-9770) and the pack load resister (511-9775) are highly recommended for use with this adapter. INSTRUCTIONS 1. Plug the adapter into the shielded Digital Multimeter with the (+) rib side pin in the (V, Ohms) jack and the other pin in the (COM) jack. 2. Set the digital voltmeter to DC Volts (the purpose of the adapter is to convert and store the voltage so that it can be read by a meter). 3. Connect the probes to the component to be measured. NOTE: The adapter will automatically compensate for polarity and all readings will be peak voltage. See the following pages for readings of Chrysler, Force, Mercury, OMC (Johnson/Evinrude), OMC Sea Drive and Yamaha engines. Other ignitions can be tested using test results given by the manufacturer of the equipment or by comparing a known good system to a suspect one. Please forward any additional readings you would like to have included in future printings.

Big enough to do the job, small enough to care Tech Support 866-423-4832 Fax 256-772-5701 www.rapair.com

61

Chrysler
DVA (PEAK READING) and RESISTANCE CHARTS
Model HP Year Type Ignition Part Number Ohms 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* Not Applicable 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* Not Applicable 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* Not Applicable 680-850 300-400* Not Applicable 680-850 300-400* Not Applicable Stator Stator DVA Output Stator Reading Colors Ohms Trigger Trigger DVA Output Trigger Reading Colors Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Between Terminals Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Between Terminals Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Between Terminals Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Between Terminals Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn Between Terminals Ignition Coil Primary Output

Ohms

7.5

1972

BOC/B1D /HOC/H1D

525475

180V+

Blue - Blue

48-52

0.5V+

N/A

125-140

7.5

1977 19791984

BOC/B1C /HOC/H1C

525475

180V+

Blue - Blue

48-52

0.5V+

N/A

125-140

7.5

All Models

525475

180V+

Blue - Blue

48-52

0.5V+

N/A

125-140

1982 19791984 19761978

82H8J -87H8A

9.9

A, B

10

W/CD & Alternator

12

1979 1976 1984 1979 1981 1983 1984 1979 1982 1978 1984 1977 1980 1981 1983

W/CD & Alternator

15

W/CD & Alternator

20

W/CD & Alternator

25

W/CD & Alternator

30

W/CD & Alternator

35 55

W/CD & Alternator W/Magna-power II

525475 510301 1160301* 510301 1160301* 510301 1160301* 510301 1160301* 529301 1169301* 529301 1169301* 529301 1169301* 529301 1169301* 4743011 475301 1165301* 475301 1165301* 4743011 475301 1165301* 475301 1165301* 4743011 475301 1165301* 4743011 475301 1165301* 4743011

180V+

Blue - Blue

48-52

0.5V+

N/A

125-140 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 2002000 8001100 8001100 2002000 8001100 8001100 2002000 8001100 2002000 8001100 2002000

180V+

Blue - Yellow

48-52

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

180V+

Blue - Yellow

48-52

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

180V+

Blue - Yellow

48-52

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

180V+

Blue - Yellow

48-52

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

180V+

Blue - Yellow

48-52

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

180V+

Blue - Yellow

48-52

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

180V+

Blue - Yellow

48-52

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

180V+ 180V+

Blue - Yellow T1 & T4 to Eng Gnd

48-52 Open

0.5V+ 0.5V+

0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0

55

All Models

180V+

Blue - Yellow

48-52

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

60 65

1984 1977 1978 1983 1984 1983 1984 1976 1983 1984 1976 1981 1982 1976

All Models W/Magna-power II

180V+ 180V+

Blue - Yellow T1 & T4 to Eng Gnd

48-52 Open

0.5V+ 0.5V+

0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0

80

W/CD & Alternator

180V+

Blue - Yellow

48-52

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

90 105

W/CD & Alternator BD/BE/HA/HD/HE

180V+ 180V+

Blue - Yellow T1 & T4 to Eng Gnd

48-52 Open

0.5V+ 0.5V+

0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0

115 120

W/CD & Alternator BD/BE/HD/HE

180V+ 180V+

Blue - Yellow T1 & T4 to Eng Gnd

48-52 Open

0.5V+ 0.5V+

0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0

125 135

W/CD & Alternator BD/BE/ HD/HE

180V+ 180V+

Blue - Yellow T1 & T4 to Eng Gnd

48-52 Open

0.5V+ 0.5V+

0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0

Grn = Green Wht/Grn = White/Green Stripe * Indicates a part manufactured by CDI Electronics

62

FORCE
DVA (Peak Reading) Voltage and Resistance Chart
Model HP Year Serial # Ignition Part Number 529301 1169301* 658475 658301 1168301* 658301 1168301* 18495 1144953* 827509 114-7509 475301 1165301* 332-7778 1147778* 18495 1144953* 827509 114-7509 827509 114-7509 475301 1165301* 475301 658301 116-5301 1168301* 658301 1168301* 332-7778 1147778* 658301 1168301* 332-7778 18495 114-7778 1144953* 827509 114-7509 658301 1168301* 827509 114-7509 658301 1168301* 332-5772 114-5772 475301 658301 116-5301 1168301* 658301 1168301* 332817323 1167323* Low Spd Ohms Hi Spd 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 680-850 300-400* 3250-3650 75-90 220028-32* 2400* 500-700 400-600* 680-850 300-400* 3250-3650 22002400* 3250-3650 22002400* 75-90 28-32* 75-90 28-32* Low Spd Stator DVA Hi Spd Reading Colors(a) Blue - Yellow (b) Blue - Blue Blue - Yellow (b) Blue - Yellow (b) Blue and Red to Engine Gnd Green/White to White/Green Blue - Yellow (b) Blue and Red to Engine Gnd Blue and Red to Engine Gnd Green/White to White/Green Green/White to White/Green Blue - Yellow (b) Ohms 48-52 48-52 48-52 DVA Output 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ Sensor Reading Colors(b) Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a) Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a) Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a) Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a) Wht/Blk to Brown, White and Purple Gnd to Wht/Blk at CDM Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a) Wht/Blk to Brown, White and Purple Wht/Blk to Brown, White and Purple Gnd to Wht/Blk , Wht/Yel, Blue/Wht Gnd to Wht/Blk , Wht/Yel, Blue/Wht Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a) N/A N/A N/A Ignition Coil Input Output Ohms 125-140 125-140 125-140

35 50 50

19871991 1988 1988 19891992 19921995 19961997 1985 19911992 19931995 19961999 19961999 1983

All Models A, B, C D

180V+ 180V+ 180V+

50

All Models OE009500OE138599 OE138600OE283999 All Models OE000001OE009499 OE009500OE138599 OE138600OE369299 OE138600OE369299 856XL

180V+

48-52 8001400 Open 48-52 8001400 8001400 Open

0.5V+

N/A 0.21.0 N/A 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 N/A

125-140

50 50 60

180V+

20V+

5V+ 1.5V+ 0.5V+

800-1100 800-1100 800-1100

180V+ 180V+

70

180V+

20V+

5V+

800-1100

70

180V+

20V+

5V+

800-1100 900-1100 21002400* 900-1100 21002400* 800-1100

70

500-700 400-600* 500-700 400-600* 680-850 300-400*

180V+

1.5V+

75

180V+

Open

1.5V+

N/A 0.21.0

85

180V+

48-52

0.5V+

85

19841989

All Models

680-850 300-400*

180V+

Blue - Yellow (b)

48-52

0.5V+

Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a)

0.21.0

200-2000

90

1990

All Models

680-850 300-400* 3250-3650 22002400* 75-90 28-32*

180V+

Blue - Yellow (b) Blue and Red to Engine Gnd Blue - Yellow (b)

48-52 8001400 48-52

0.5V+

Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a) Wht/Blk to Brown, White and Purple Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a)

0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0

800-1100

90

1991

B&D

180V+

20V+

5V+

800-1100

90

1991

A, C & E

680-850 300-400* 3250-3650 22002400*

180V+

0.5V+

200-2000

90

19911995

OE000001OE138599

75-90 28-32*

180V+

20V+

Blue and Red to Engine Gnd

8001400

5V+

Wht/Blk to Brown, White and Purple

0.21.0

800-1100

90

19961999 19901994 19961999 1990 19911992

OE138600OE369299 OE000001OE0093669 OE138600OE369299 A, B, C

500-700 400-600* 680-850 300-400* 500-700 400-600* 680-850 300-400* 3250-3650 22002400* 75-90 28-32*

180V+

Green/White to White/Green Blue - Yellow (b) Green/White to White/Green Blue - Yellow (b) Blue to Bl/Wht Red to Red/Wht

Open

1.5V+

Gnd to Wht/Blk , Wht/Yel, Blue/Wht Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a) Gnd to Wht/Blk , Wht/Yel, Blue/Wht, Brn/Wht Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a) Brown to Wht/Blk Purple to White

N/A 0.21.0 N/A 0.21.0 0.21.0

900-1100 21002400* 200-2000 900-1100 21002400* 200-2000

120

180V+

48-52

0.5V+

120 120 L Drive 120 L Drive

180V+

Open

1.5V+

180V+

48-52 8001400

0.5V+

B&D

180V+

20V+

5V+

800-1100

125

19831989

All Models

680-850 300-400*

180V+

Blue - Yellow (b)

48-52

0.5V+

Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a)

0.21.0

800-1100

150

19891991 19911992

89A, 90C, 90D, 91A OE000001OE093699

680-850 300-400* Not Applicable 12V Inverter

180V+

Blue - Yellow (b)

48-52

0.5V+

Orange to Grn Red to Wht/Grn (a) Wht/Blk to Brn, Blk, Wht, Pur & Yel

0.21.0 0.21.0

800-1100

150

225-300V

Blue - Eng Gnd

8001400

5V+

800-1100

* Indicates a part manufactured by CDI Electronics (a) Some units use White/Orange stripe to White/Yellow and White/Red to White/Green. Also, some have additional black stripes (b) Some units use Brown/Yellow stripe for Yellow and Brown/Blue for Blue. Also, some have additional black stripes

63

Johnson & Evinrude Outboard

DVA (Peak Voltage) and Resistance Chart
HP Year Ignition Part Number 4-55 4-60 4-55 4-55 5-60 5-60 25-35 Elect Start 25-35 Man Start 60 60 19711977 19781988 19891993 19891993 19922000 19922005 19951997 19951997 19861989 19891992 19932000 19721978 1989 19921995 19841988 19891992 19891992 19921995 19791988 19891997 19921996 19731977 19791983 19911995 19871996 19841997 19952006 19901994 Power Pack 2 CD2 CD2 - USL CDI ElectUSL Repl* CD2 W/SLOW CD2 SL CD3 OPTICAL CD3 OPTICAL CD3 CD3 W/SLOW CD3 Looper Power Pack 3 CD3 W/SLOW CD4 CD3 Chg Power Chg Stator Power Chg Read Brown to Engine Gnd Brown to Brown/Yellow Brown to Brown/Yellow Brown to Brown/Yellow Brown to Brown/Yellow Brown to Brown/Yellow Brown to Brown/Yellow Brown to Brown/Yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Power Color N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk N/A N/A Ohm 10-20 35-55 N/A 35-55 35-55 35-55 N/A DVA Out 0.5V+ 0.5V+ N/A 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ N/A Trigger Reading Colors White/Black to Black/White White/Black to Black/White N/A White/Black to Black/White White/Black to Black/White White/Black to Black/White N/A

Ohms Reading 450-600 450-600 450-950 450-600 450-600 500-700 720-880 10101230 450-600 450-600 N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 450-600 52-62

DVA Output 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 12-24V 12V+

76-92 N/A 90-100 40-50* 450-600 40-50* N/A 90-100 40-50* N/A N/A

150V+ 150V+ 150V+

12V+ N/A 12V+

N/A 35-45 35-45

N/A 0.5V+ 0.5V+

N/A Wht to Blue/Pur/Grn Wht to Blue/Pur/Grn

60 65 - 70 65 65 65 COMM 65 COM Elect Start 65 COM Man Start 65 COM 70 70 80 85 - 140 85 85 88 90 90 - 115 OPTICAL 100

500-700 450-600 450-600 450-600 450-600

150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+

12V+ N/A 12V+ N/A N/A

Open 10-20 35-45 35-45 35-45

0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Black/White to White/Blacks Wht to Blue/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

CD3 CD3 W/SLOW CD3 W/SLOW CD3 CD3 W/SLOW CD4 Power Pack 4 CD4 CD4 CD4 CD4 CD4AL CD4

450-600

N/A 450-600 40-50* 450-600 40-50* N/A 450-600 40-50* N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 50-60 N/A

150V+

N/A

N/A Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A Org to Org/Blk N/A

35-45

0.5V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

500-700

150V+

12V+

35-45

0.5V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

500-700 450-600 450-700 450-600 450-600 450-600 450-600 450-600 450-600 450-600 450-600

150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+

12V+ N/A 12V+ N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 12V+ N/A

35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 10 20 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 N/A 35-45

0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ N/A 0.5V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk #1 to #3 and #2 to #4 Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk N/A Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Pk = Pink Pur = Purple Bl = Blue

N/A = Not Applicable *Part Manufactured by CDI Electronics COMM = Commercial

Sec = Secondary Pri = Primary

Org/Blk = Orange/Black Stripe Blk = Black Gnd = Ground

NOTE: Ignition Coils will read 0.2 to 1.0 ohms on the Primary and 200-400 ohms on the secondary windings NOTICE: ALL DVA READINGS ARE TO BE TAKEN WITH ALL WIRING CONNECTED EXCEPT THE STOP CIRCUIT.

64

Johnson & Evinrude Outboard

DVA (Peak Voltage) and Resistance Chart
HP Year Ignition Part Number CD4 CD6AL CD4 CD4 CD4 CD4 CD4 CD4 CD4 CD4AL CD4 Power Pack 3/6 CD3/6 CD3/6 CD3/6 CD3/6 CD6AL CD6 CD6 CD6 CD6 CD3/6 CD3/6 CD6 CD3/6 CD6 CD4/8 Chg Power Ohms Reading 450-600 450-600 450-600 450-600 450-600 450-700 735-935 450-700 450-700 450-700 450-600 450-600 450-600 735-935 450-600 735-935 735-935 450-600 735-935 450-600 735-935 450-600 735-935 735-935 735-935 735-935 735-935 N/A 50-60 N/A N/A N/A 450-600 40-50* N/A 450-600 40-50* 90-100 40-50* 450-600 40-50* N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 90-100 40-50* 50-60 N/A 90-110 N/A 90-100 40-50* N/A N/A 90-100 40-50* N/A 90-100 40-50* N/A 90-100 40-50* N/A 90-100 40-50* Stator Chg Power Min DVA Output 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ N/A 12V+ N/A N/A N/A 12V+ N/A 12V+ 12V+ 12V+ N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 12V+ 12V+ N/A 12V+ N/A 12V+ N/A N/A 12V+ N/A 12V+ N/A Trigger Chg Read Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Engine Gnd Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Power Color N/A Org to Org/Blk N/A N/A N/A Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk N/A N/A Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk Ohm 35-45 N/A 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 10-20 35-45 35-45 35-45 Open N/A 35-45 Open 35-45 Open 35-45 35-45 Open 35-45 Open 35-45 DVA Out 0.5V+ N/A 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ N/A 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ Reading Colors Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk N/A Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk Black/White to White/Blacks Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn N/A Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

100 COMM 105 JET OPTICAL 110 112 115 120-140 10 AMP 120-140 35 AMP 125 125 COMM 130 140 150 - 235 150 - 185 10 AMP 150 - 185 35 AMP 150 - 175 10 AMP 150 - 175 35 AMP 150 - 175 OPTICAL 155 10 AMP 155 35 AMP 155 Turbojet 185 200 - 235 200 - 225 200 - 225 235 250 275

19841997 19942000 19861989 19941996 19781997 19851999 19851994 19911994 19891994 19942000 19781984 19771978 19791988 19841988 19891991 19891991 19922005 19841992 19841992 1995 19901994 19791983 19861987 19882000 19841985 19912000 19851987 19881989 19851987 19881995

275

CD8

735-935

150V+

12V+

Open

0.5V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

300

CD4/8

735-935

150V+

N/A

35-45

0.5V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

300

CD8

735-935

150V+

12V+

Open

0.5V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Pk = Pink Pur = Purple Bl = Blue

N/A = Not Applicable *Part Manufactured by CDI Electronics COMM = Commercial

Sec = Secondary Pri = Primary

Org/Blk = Orange/Black Stripe Blk = Black Gnd = Ground

NOTE: Ignition Coils will read 0.2 to 1.0 ohms on the Primary and 200-400 ohms on the secondary windings NOTICE: ALL DVA READINGS ARE TO BE TAKEN WITH ALL WIRING CONNECTED EXCEPT THE STOP CIRCUIT.

65

OMC Sea Drive

DVA (Peak Reading) Voltage and Resistance Chart
Engine Year Ignition Part Number 2.5/2.6L 'S' 1.6L 'S' 2.6L 10AMP 1AA/2BA/2B B 2.5L 35AMP 1AA/2BA/2B B 1.6L V4 'S' 2.5/2.6L V6 1.6L V4 'S' 2.5/2.6L V6 1.6L V4 'S' 2.6L V6 1.6L V4 'S' 1.8L V4 'S' 2.7L V6 3.6L V8 1.6L V4 'S' 2.0L V4 'S' 3.0L V6 'S' 1.6L V4 'S' 2.0L V4 'S' 3.0L V6 'S' 4.0L V8 'S' 1.6L V4 'S' 2.0L V4 'S' 3.0L V6 'S' 4.0L V8 'S' 1982 1983 582138 113-2138* 582125 113-2125 Color Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Charge Coil Ohms 450-600 450-600 DVA 150V+ 150V+ Color N/A N/A Stator Power Coil Ohms N/A N/A DVA N/A N/A Colors Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Trigger Reading Ohm 35-45 35-45 DVA 0.5V+ 0.5V+ Ignition Coil Pri Sec

Ohm Reading 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 200-400 200-400

Wht to Bl/Grn

1983

582556 113-2556

Brown to Brown/yellow

450-600

150V+

N/A

N/A

N/A

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

35-45

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

200-400

1983 1984 1984 1985 1985 1986 1986 1987 1987 1987 1987 1988 1988 1988 1989 1989 1989 1989 1990 1990 1990 1990

582138 113-2138 582125 113-2125 582556 113-2556 582811 113-2811 582651 113-2651 583110 113-3110 583114 113-3114 583110 113-3110 583101 113-3101 583605 113-3605 583101 113-3101 583101 113-3101 584041 113-4041 584037 113-4037 583030 113-3030 584041 113-4041 584037 113-4037 584035 584028 113-4028 584041 113-4041 584037 113-4037 584035

Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Brown to Brown/yellow Gnd = Ground Bl = Blue Blk = Black Grn = Green Org = Orange

735-935 450-600 735-935 450-600 735-935 450-600 735-935 450-600 735-935 735-935 735-935 450-600 735-935 735-935 450-600 735-935 735-935 735-935 450-600 735-935 735-935 735-935

150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+ 150V+

N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk N/A Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk Org to Org/Blk

N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 90-110 40-55* 90-110 40-55* N/A 90-110 40-55* 90-110 40-55* 90-110 40-55* N/A 90-110 40-55* 90-110 40-55* 90-110 40-55*

N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 12V+ 12V+ N/A 12V+ 12V+ 12V+ N/A 12V+ 12V+ 12V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/PK Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/PK Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/PK Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/PK Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/PK Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/PK Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/PK Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/PK Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/PK Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 35-45 Open 35-45 35-45 Open Open 35-45 35-45 Open Open

0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+ 0.5V+

0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0

200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400 200-400

N/A = Not Applicable *Part Manufactured by CDI Electronics COMM = Commerical Pri = Primary Sec = Secondary

Org/Blk = Orange/Black Stripe Pk = Pink Pur = Purple Wht = White

66

Mercury
DVA (Peak Reading) Voltage and Resistance Chart
Please note that all DVA readings are minimum voltages measured at cranking speed, not while the engine is running.
Model HP Year Serial # Ignition Part Number 4 4 19721975 19761980 19801989 19861996 19952006 19721973 19741985 19881993 19941996 19961997 19791987 19731977 19801993 19841989 19701971 19721981 3296137 4107219 9075839 5595531 5595532 A855096 A197112 OG289100 OG760299 -1B000001 322695837956658 37956595206549 OB238464OG044365 OG044027 OG437999 OG438000 OG760299 5837437OB114230 35375314709592 5705532OG044026 6445653OB393190 28747043336237 3336258 5823917 336-4516 339-6222 114-6222 336-4516 332-7452 1147452K1 855713 114-5713 336-4516 339-6222 114-6222 332-7452 1147452K1 18495A30 1144952K1 332-7452 1147452K1 3327452A3 1147452A3 332-4911 114-4911 332-7452 1147452K1 332-7452 1147452K1 332-4172 332-4172 338-4733 332-4911 338-4733 114-4911 332-7452 1147452K1 332-5772 114-5772 Low Spd 3600-5500 Ohms Hi Sp 450-550 Stator DVA Low 180V+ 180V+ Hi Reading Colors Green to Eng Gnd Orange to Eng Gnd Green to Engine Gnd Blk/Yel (LS) Blk/Wht(HS) to Eng Gnd Green/White to White/Green Green to Engine Gnd Orange to Eng Gnd Blk/Yel (LS) Blk/Wht(HS) to Eng Gnd Blue to Black Red to Black Blk/Yel (LS) Blk/Wht(HS) to Eng Gnd Blk/Yel (LS) Blk/Wht(HS) to Eng Gnd Blue and Red to Engine Gnd Blk/Yel (LS) Blk/Wht(HS) to Eng Gnd Blk/Yel (LS) Blk/Wht(HS) to Eng Gnd Blue and White to Engine Gnd Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Blk/Yel (LS) Blk/Wht(HS) to Eng Gnd Blue to Bl/Wht Red to Red/Wht Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Green/White to White/Green Red to White Blue to White Blue to Blue/Wht Red to Red/Wht Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Blue to Gnd Red to Gnd Ohms N/A 140-160 Trigger DVA Out N/A 0.5V+ Reading Colors Points Brn & Wht Brn to Brn or Brn to Wht Points Brown & White Brn/Yel to Brn/Wht Brn/Yel to Brn/Wht Points Brown & White Brn to Brn or Brn to Wht Brn/Yel to Brn/Wht Brn/Yel to Brn/Wht Brn/Yel to Brn/Wht Brn/Yel to Brn/Wht Ignition Coil Primary Output

Ohms 0.2-1.0 0.2-1.0 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100

1600-1800 (800-900 per coil) 3600-5500 3200-3800 2200-2600* 370-445 450-550 120-180 225-300*

4/4.5

180V+ 180 V+

N/A 7501400 650-850

N/A

0.2-1.0

6/8/9.9/10 6/8/10/15/2 0/25 9.8/20

20V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

180V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

3600-5500

450-550

180V+

N/A 7501400 7501400 7501400 7501400 7501400

N/A

0.2-1.0

9.8

1600-1800 (800-900 per coil) 3200-3800 2200-2600* 3200-3800 2200-2600* 3200-3800 2200-2600* 3200-3800 2200-2600* 120-180 225-300* 120-180 225-300* 120-180 225-300* 120-180 225-300*

180V+ 180 V+ 180 V+ 180 V+ 180 V+ 180 V+ 180 V+ 180 V+ 180 V+ 180 V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

15 20 25

20V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

15 20 25

20V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

15/20

20V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

18/20 25 XD

20V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

20

3500-5500 3200-3800 2200-2600* 3200-3800 2200-2600* 3200-3800 2200-2600* 5000-7000 2200-2500*

450-550 120-180 225-300* 120-180 225-300* 45-55 45-55* 180-220 45-55*

20V+

N/A 7501400 7501400 7501400 7501400

N/A

Brn to Wht Brn/Yel to Brn/Wht Brn/Yel to Brn/Wht Brn to Wht

0.2-1.0

20/25

20V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

35

20V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

40

20V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

40

20V+

0.5V+

Brn/Wht to Brn/Yellow

0.2-1.0

40 40-45 4 CYL NOTE 2 45-80 3 CYL NOTE 3

19821984 19891996

52839186999999 C159200OG291031

3200-3800 2200-2600* 3250-3650 2200-2400*

150-200 225-300* 75-90 28-32*

180 V+ 180 V+

20V+

7501400 7501400

0.5V+

Brn/Yel to Brn/Wht Brn to Wht/Blk Purple to White Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht and Purple Gnd to Wht/Blk, Wht/Yel, Blue/Wht Not Applicable

0.2-1.0

8001100 8001100

20V+

4V+

0.2-1.0

19891996

C159200OG291031 OG531301 OG980599 28588144357639

18495 114-4953

3250-3650 500-700*

75-90 28-32*

180 V+

20V+

7501400

4V+

0.2-1.0

8001100 9001100 21002400 Does not apply 8001100

40-125

19972001

827509 114-7509

660-710 450-600*

180V+

Open

0.5V+

N/A

50

19701975

333-3213

380-420

9-11

180 V+

20V+

Ignition Driver 8001400

N/A 4V+ Brn to Wht/Blk Purple to White Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht and Purple Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht, Pur

Does not apply

50

19761985

43576406586624

332-5772 114-5772

5800-7000 2200-2400*

135-165 30-90*

180 V+

20V+

0.2-1.0

50

19851990 19911996

6586625OD000749 OD000750OG589999

332-7778 114-7778 19052 114-9052

3250-3650 2200-2400* 3250-3650 500-700*

75-90 28-32* 75-90 28-32*

180 V+ 180 V+

20V+

8001400 8001400

4V+

0.2-1.0

8001100 8001100

50-60

20V+

4V+

0.2-1.0

67

Mercury
DVA (Peak Reading) Voltage and Resistance Chart
Please note that all DVA readings are minimum voltages measured at cranking speed, not while the engine is running.
50-60 65 Jet 65 65 65 19972001 1968 19761979 19941996 19921995 19771993 19841988 19781983 19871988 19791986 19871992 19891996 19951997 19881996 19921996 OG590000OG980600 23093112452709 43820574571651 OD283222OG437999 OE009500OE138599 4571652OD283221 643901OB279480 48319996432900 OA966142OB209468 5299506OB110053 OA996142OC221999 OC222000OG437999 OE141089OE315900 OB209468OG437999 OD082000OG840500 827509 114-7509 333-3213 332-7778 114-7778 18495 114-4953 18495 114-4953 332-7778 114-7778 332-5772 114-5772 332-5772 114-5772 332-7778 114-7778 332-7778 114-7778 332-7778 114-7778 18495 114-4953 18495 114-4953 332-5772 114-5772 332-7778 114-7778 660-710 450-600* 380-420 3250-3650 22002400* 3250-3650 500-700* 3250-3650 500-700* 5800-7000 22002400* 5800-7000 22002400* 5800-7000 22002400* 5800-7000 22002400* 5800-7000 22002400* 5800-7000 22002400* 3250-3650 500-700* 3250-3650 500-700* 3250-3650 500-700* 3250-3650 500-700* 5800-7000 22002400* 3250-3650 500-700* 3250-3650 500-700* 9-11 75-90 28-32* 75-90 28-32* 75-90 28-32* 135165 30-90* 135165 30-90* 135165 30-90* 135165 30-90* 135165 30-90* 135165 30-90* 75-90 28-32* 75-90 28-32* 75-90 28-32* 75-90 28-32* 135165 30-90* 75-90 28-32* 75-90 28-32* 180V+ 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + 20V + Green/White to White/Green Red to White Blue to White Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Blue to Bl/Wht Red to Red/Wht Blue to Bl/Wht Red to Red/Wht Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Blue to Gnd Bl/Wht to Gnd. Red to Gnd Red/Wht to Gnd Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Blue to Eng Gnd Red to Eng Gnd Blue to Bl/Wht Red to Red/Wht Blue to Gnd Bl/Wht to Gnd Red to Gnd Red/Wht to Gnd Blue to Gnd Bl/Wht to Gnd Red to Gnd Red/Wht to Gnd Blue to Bl/Wht Red to Red/Wht Blue to Bl/Wht Red to Red/Wht Open Ignition Driver 8001400 8001400 8001400 8001400 8001400 8001400 8001400 8001400 8001400 8001400 8001400 8001400 8001400 1.5V + Gnd to Wht/Blk, Wht/Yel, Blue/Wht Not Applicable Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht and Pur Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht and Pur Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht and Pur Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht and Purple Brn to Wht/Blk Purple to White Brn to Wht/Blk Purple to White Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht and Purple NOTE 1 Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht and Purple Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht and Purple Wht/Blk to Brn, Wht and Purple Brn to Wht/Blk Purple to White NOTE 1 N/A 9001100 21002400 N/A 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100 8001100

180V+ 180V+ 180V+ 180V+ 180V+

N/A 4V+ 4V+ 4V+ 4V+

N/A 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0

65 Jet 70

180V+

4V+

75

180V+

4V+

80 80

180V+

4V+

90 Inline 6 90 3 CYL NOTE 2 90 3 CYL NOTE 3 90 Sport Jet 100

180V+

4V+

180V+

4V+

180V+

4V+

180V+

4V+

180V+

4V+

105 Jet

180V+

4V+

115 6 Cyl 115/125 4 Cyl 120 Sport Jet

19791989 19891996 1995

5314656OC09999 OC10000OG437999 OE080400OE141088

332-7778 114-7778 332-5772 114-5772 332826866 114-6866 827509 114-7509

180V+

20V + 20V + 20V +

8001400 8001400 8001400

4V+

NOTE 1 Brn to Wht/Blk Purple to White Brn to Wht/Blk Purple to White Gnd to Wht/Blk, Wht/Yel, Blue/Wht, Brn/Wht NOTE 1

0.21.0 0.21.0 0.21.0

8001100 8001100 8001100 9001100 21002400 8001100

180V+

4V+

180V+

4V+

120 Sport Jet

19962000

OE141089OE384499

500-700 400-600*

180V+

Green/White to White/Green Blue to Gnd Bl/Wht to Gnd Red to Gnd Red/Wht to Gnd Blue to Gnd Bl/Wht to Gnd Red to Gnd Red/Wht to Gnd Blue to Gnd Bl/Wht to Gnd Red to Gnd Red/Wht to Gnd Blue to Gnd Bl/Wht to Gnd Red to Gnd Red/Wht to Gnd

Open

1.5V +

N/A

135-200 6 CYL 9-15 AMP 135-275 2.0L,2.4L 16 AMP 175/210 Sport Jet 16 AMP 135-275 2.0L, 2.4L 2.5L 40 AMP 225 Carb 250 EFI 3.0L

19781985

4868998OA904646

332-7778 114-7778

5800-7000 22002400* 5800-7000 22002400* 1000-1600 450-600*

135165 30-90* 135165 30-90* 75-90 28-32*

180V+

20V +

8001400

4V+

0.21.0

19851988

OA904647OC100860

332-7778 114-7778

180V+

20V +

8001400

4V+

NOTE 1

0.21.0

8001100

19972005

398-9873 174-9873-16

18495 114-4953

180V+

20V +

8001400

4V+

NOTE 1

0.21.0

8001100

19892005

OC100861OG840500

332-7778 114-7778

3200-4200 21002400*

90-140 28-32*

180V+

20V +

1100 1400

4V+

NOTE 1 Gnd to Wht/Blk , Wht/Yel, Blue/Wht, Brn/Wht, Red/Wht, Pur/Wht

0.21.0

8001100

19962004

OD280813OG840500

827509 114-7509

900-1100

180V+

Green/White to White/Green

Open

1.5V +

N/A

9001100 21002400

Gnd = Engine ground Bl/Wht = Blue/White

Blk = Black Wht/Blk = White/Black

Blk/Wht = Black/White Stripe Brn/Yel = Brown/Yellow Stripe

* Manufactured by CDI Electronics Red/Wht = Red/White Blk/Yel = Black/Yellow Stripe

68

YAMAHA DVA and RESISTANCE CHARTS

HP YEAR # Cy l ST K STATOR MDL OHMS LS 2 19842004 20032004 1 2 HS L S DVA H S CHECK POINTS HS LS OHMS Ohms N/A TRIGGER DV A DV A N/A CHECK POINTS CDI Out IGNITION COIL OHMS +/- 10% Pri N/A 0.21 Sec 3.2K 11.6 K17.4 K 2.6 K SPK PLG CAP

320-390

Brown to Gnd

2.5

F 30-36 LS 280340 HS 30-36 LS 280340 HS Red/White to BLK Green/Wht to BLK White/Red to BLK White/Grn to BLK

.56-.84

4-6 K

19842002

250-300

100

Brown to BLK

0.1

19841999

250-300

100

Brown to BLK

0.1

3.1 K 11.6 K17.4 K 3.1 K 3.5 K 7.8 K 3.5 K 3.5 K 5.4 K 2.1 K 3.4 K 4.1K 5.4 K 4.91 K 3.2 K 3.5 K 3.5 K 3.2 K

None

19992004

1 2

126

TCI to Gnd White/Red to BLK White/Grn to BLK White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk White/Grn to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk Red to Wht White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk White/Grn to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk

.56-.84

4.9-5.1 k

19842002 19842000 20012004 19862004 19841992 19931995 19962004 19841990 19912004 19841995 19982004 19961997 19841987 19881993 19942004

250-300

100

Brown to BLK

30-36 LS 280340 HS 92-111 92-111 92-111 92-111 92-111 396484 280340 280340 92-111 234348 310390 12-16 4 5.5

0.3

None

6 6/8 8 9.9 9.9 9.9/15 9.9 9.9 15 15 20

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

2 4 2 2 2 2 4 4 2 4 2 F F/FT/ T F/FT/ T F

81-99 81-99 81-99 81-99 81-99 280-340 300-400 300-400 81-99 272-408 340-420

100 100 100 100 100 105 90 90

Brown to BLK Brown to BLK Brown to BLK Brown to BLK Brown to BLK Brown to BLK Brown to Blue Brown to Blue Brown to BLK

0.1 0.1 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.3 115 105 0.5 0.5

None None None None None None None None None None None

2.5 2.5

135 125

Brown to Blue Brown to Blue

25

120-150

190

Brown to Blue

210

0.5

None

25

200-275

190

Brown to BLK

90-120 310390

210

0.5

None

25

340-420

125

Brown to Blue

5.5

105

0.5

None

25

19962002 19901992 19931995 19961997 19982004 19841986 19872002 19891992 19931996 1997

340-420

175

Brown to Blue

310390

135

0.5

6.3 K 3.5 K 5.4 K 8.5 K 4.1 K 3.5 K

None

25 25 25 25 30

2 2 2 2 2

2 2 2 4 2

C C C F

200-275 200-275 200-275 660-710 120-150

190 190 190 190 190

Brown to BLK Brown to BLK Brown to BLK Grn/Wht to Wht/Grn Brown to Blue

90-120 90-120 90-120 300350 12-16

5 5 5 6 5

210 210 210 100 210

0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

None None None None None

30

280-330

175

Brown to Blue

310390

135

0.5

6.3K

None

30 30

2 2

2 2

C C

120-150 400-490

190 125

Brown to Blk Brown to Blue

12-16 310390 310390

5 4

210 105

0.5 0.5

3.5 K 3.2 K 3.2 K

None None

30

340-420

125

Brown to Blue

105

0.5

None

69

YAMAHA DVA and RESISTANCE CHARTS

HP YEAR # Cyl STK MD L STATOR OHMS LS 30 20012004 19841988 2 4 F HS DVA LS 193 H S CHECK POINTS HS LS Grn/Wht to Wht/Grn Brown to Blue OHMS Ohms 270-330 TRIGGER DVA DVA 6 White/Red to Blk White/Red, White/Blk, White/Grn to Blk White/Red, White/Blk, White/Grn to Blk White/Red, White/Blk, White/Grn to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red, White/Blk, White/Grn to Blk Red//Wht to White/Blk Red//Wht to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Red, White/Blk, White/Grn to Blk Red//Wht to White/Blk Red//Wht to White/Blk Red//Wht to White/Blk White/Red, White/Blk, Yel to Blk White/Red, White/Blk to Blk White/Red, White/Blk, White/Grn to Blk White/Red to White/Blk White/Red to White/Blk 151 CHECK POINTS CDI Out IGNITION COIL OHMS +/- 10% Primary 0.5 Sec 4.1 K None SPK PLG CAP

600-720

40/50

180-250

175

310-390

135

0.5

6.3K

40/50

19891994

280-330

200

Brown to Blue

180-220

175

0.5

3.2 K

None

40/50

19952004 19891997 19982002 1999 20002004 19952000 19992002 19952000 19962000 20012004 19891994 1995

400-510

145

Brown to Blue

180-240

125

0.5

3.2 K

None

40

120-140

125

Brown to Blue

12-16

5.5

115

0.5

3.5 K

None

40

400-510

145

Brown to Blue

180-220

125

0.5

3.2 K

None

40 40 48

4 3 2

4 4 4

F F E

300-380 600-710 81-99

140 193

Brown to Blue Grn/Wht to Wht/Grn Brown to BLK

375-475 270-330 92-111

7 6

105 151

0.5 0.5 0.3

4.1 K 2.73.7K 5.4K

4-6 K 4-6 K None

50

420-510

145

Brown to Blue

180-240

125

0.5

3.2 K

None

50 50 50

4 4 4

4 4 4

F F F

300-380 300-380 272-408

137 137 144

Brown to Blue Brown to Blue Brown to Blue

375-475 375-475 396-594 70-88 23-29 280-360

3.5 3.5 6.3

150 150 126

0.5 0.5 0.0780.106 0.5

4.1 K 4.1 K 3.54.7 K 3.1 K

3.8-5.7 K 3.8-5.7 K 3.8-5.7 K None

55

200-260

135

Brown to Blue

150

55

200-260

135

Brown to Blue

150

0.5

3.1 K

None

60

19912000 19921999 19962002

145-190

140

Brown to Blue

110-150

2.5

100

0.5

3.2 K

None

60 60

2 2

2 2

P C

150-190 150-190

120 120

Brown to Blue Brown to Blue

270-330 270-330

2.5 2.5

105 105 105 on #1 & #3 at idle (0 on #2), 145 on all at 1500 RPM 126

0.5 0.5

4.1 K 4.1 K

None None

60

20012004

150-190

150

Brown to Blue

270-330

2.5

White/Red to White/Blk

0.5

4.1 K

None

60

20022004 19841991

F/T

272-408

144

Brown to Blue

396-594

6.3

Red//Wht to White/Blk White/Red, White/Blk, White/Grn to Blk

0.0780.106 0.5

3.54.7 K 3.2 K

3.8-5.7 K

70

145-190

140

Brown to Blue

110-150

2.5

100 105 on #1 & #3 at idle (0 on #2), 145 on all at 1500 RPM

70

19922004

150-190

150

Brown to Blue

270-330

2.5

White/Red to White/Blk

0.5

4.1 K

None

70

YAMAHA DVA and RESISTANCE CHARTS

HP YEAR # Cyl STATOR STK MDL OHMS L Spd 19941996 9001100 DVA CHECK POINTS HS Brn to Blue LS Red to Blue OHMS TRIGGER DVA CHECK POINTS CDI Out IGNITION COIL OHMS +/- 10% SPK PLG CAP

HSpd 105140

LS

HS

Ohms 290370

DVA Wht/Red to Wht/Yel Wht/Grn to Wht/Blk

Primary

Sec

75

85

45

2.5

95 105 on #1 & #3 at idle (0 on #2), 145 on all at 1500 RPM 95

0.5

4.5K

75

19981999

191288

64-96

55

90

Brn to Red

Blue to Red

241362

White/Red to White/Blk

0.5

4.0 K

None

75

19951996

9001100

105140

85

45

Brn to Blue Brn to Blue Brn to Blue

Red to Blue

290370

2.5

75

19961999

9001100

105140

85

45

Red to Blue

290370

2.5

75

19972000

480600

50-70

105

45

Red to Blue

290370

2.5

Wht/Red to White/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Grn Wht/Red to White/Yel Wht/Grn to Wht/Blk Wht/Red to White/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Grn

0.5

4.8K

None

95

0.5

4.8 K

None

105

0.5

4.1K

None #1 7.6K #2 - 5.6 K #3 - 6.3 K #4 - 7.2 K None #1 7.6K #2 - 5.6 K #3 - 6.3 K #4 - 7.2 K None

75/90

20032004

396594

2.7

White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk

107

0.5

4.1 K

80

1997

220270

70-90

100

60

Brn to Red

Blue to Red

241362

White/Red to Wht/Blk

130

0.5

4.1 K

80/100

19992002

396594

2.7

White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk

107

0.5

4.1 K

85

19891996

9001100

105140

85

45

Brn to Blue Brn to Blue Brn to Blue Brn to Red Brn to Red Brn to Blue

Red to Blue

290370

2.5

90

19841989

765935

105135

85

45

Red to Blue

290370

2.5

90

19901991 19922004 19841988

9001100 220270 625820

105140

85

45

Red to Blue Blue to Red Blue to Blk/Red

290370 241362 280460

2.5

Wht/Red to White/Yel Wht/Grn to Wht/Blk Wht/Red to White/Yel Wht/Grn to Wht/Blk Wht/Red to White/Yel Wht/Grn to Wht/Blk White/Red to White/Blk Wht/Red to White/Yel Wht/Grn to Wht/Blk Wht/Red to White/Yel Wht/Grn to Wht/Blk White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk

95

0.5

4.8 K

95

0.5

2.5 K

None

95

0.5

4.8 K 4.1 K 3.8 K

None

90

70-90

100

60

130

0.5

None

115

B/P/S

62-79

160

45

2.5

95

0.5

None

115

19942000

9001100

105140

85

45

Blue to Blk/Red

320400

2.5

95

0.5

2.5 K

4-6 K

115

20002004

None

71

YAMAHA DVA and RESISTANCE CHARTS

HP YEAR # Cyl STATOR STK MDL OHMS L Spd 19841989 9001100 DVA CHECK POINTS HS Brn to Blue LS Red to Blue OHMS TRIGGER DVA CHECK POINTS CDI Out IGNITION COIL OHMS +/- 10% SPK PLG CAP

HSpd 105140

LS

HS

Ohms 290370

DVA Wht/Red to White/Yel Wht/Grn to Wht/Blk Wht/Red to White/Yel Wht/Grn to Wht/Blk Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red to Blk Wht/Grn to Blk Wht/Blk to Blk Wht/Blue to Blk Wht/Yel to Blk Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red to Blk Wht/Grn to Blk Wht/Blk to Blk Wht/Blue to Blk Wht/Yel to Blk Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk White/Red to Blk White/Blk to Blk

Primary

Sec

130

85

45

2.5

95

0.5

4.8 K

None

130

19902003

625820

62-79

160

45

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

2.5

125

0.5

3.8 K

4-6 K

150/175

19841989

9001100

21-27

75

14

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

1.6

105

0.5

2.5 K

4-6 K

150/175

19901995

660820

62-79

145

40

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

105

0.5

3.8 K

4-6 K

150

19962004

D/L/P/S

660820

62-79

145

40

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

130

0.5

4.1 K

5K

150

19961999

460620

70-90

90

30

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

2.5

65

0.5

4.1 K

None

150

19992003

DX/SX/VX

224-336

110

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

294398

100

0.5

2.72 3.68 K

None

150

19992002

LX/PX

224-336

110

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

294398

100

0.5

2.72 3.68 K

None

150

19941995

660820

62-79

145

40

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

2.5

65

0.5

3.8 K

None

150

20002004

Z/LZ/VZ

CDI OUTPUT

140

Blk/Org, Blk/Yel, Blk/Blue, Blk/Grn, Blk/Wht to Red/Yel

140

4-6 k

150

2004

F/LF

ECM OUTPUT

260

Blk/Org to Blk Blk/Wht to Blk

459561

3.5

260

1.532.07

12.5 16.91 K

None

72

YAMAHA DVA and RESISTANCE CHARTS

HP YEAR # Cyl STATOR STK MDL OHMS L Spd HSpd DVA LS HS CHECK POINTS HS Brn to Red LS OHMS Ohms DVA DVA Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red to Blk Wht/Grn to Blk Wht/Blk to Blk Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk TRIGGER CHECK POINTS CDI Out IGNITION COIL OHMS +/- 10% Primary Sec SPK PLG CAP

175

19962000

660820

62-79

140

40

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

2.5

130

0.5

4.1 K

5K

175

20012004

Z/VZ

CDI OUTPUT

140

Blk/Org, Blk/Yel, Blk/Blue, Blk/Grn, Blk/Wht to Red/Yel

140

4-6 K

200

19841989

9001100

21-27

75

14

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

1.6

105

0.5

2.5 K

200

19901995

660820

62-79

145

40

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

2.5

105

0.5

3.8 K

None

200

19911995

660820

62-79

145

40

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

105

0.5

3.8 K

None

200

19961999

L/P/S

660820

62-79

140

40

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

2.5

130

0.5

4.1 K

5K

200

1998

224-336

115

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

294398

100

0.5

2.7 3.6 K

5K

200

20022004

CDI OUTPUT

252

Blk/Org, Blk/Yel, Blk/Wht to Red/Yel Blk/Org, Blk/Yel, Blk/Blue, Blk/Grn, Blk/Wht to Red/Yel

459561

5.3

252

1.5-1.9

19.6 35.4 K

None

200

19992002

LX

CDI OUTPUT

140

140

4-6 K

200

19992004

SX

CDI OUTPUT

100

Blk/Org, Blk/Yel, Blk/Blue, Blk/Grn, Blk/Wht to Red/Yel

100

4-6 K

200

19992004

V/VX

224-336

115

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

294398

100

0.5

2.73.6 k

5K

73

YAMAHA DVA and RESISTANCE CHARTS

HP YEAR # Cyl STATOR STK MDL OHMS L Spd DVA CHECK POINTS HS LS OHMS TRIGGER DVA CHECK POINTS CDI Out IGNITION COIL OHMS +/- 10% SPK PLG CAP

HSpd

LS

HS

Ohms

DVA Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red to Wht/Grn Wht/Blk to Wht/Blue Wht/Yel to Wht/Brn Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red to Blk Wht/Grn to Blk Wht/Blk to Blk Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red, Wht/Grn, Wht/Blk, Wht/Blue, Wht/Yel , Wht/Brn to Blk

Primary

Sec

200

20002004

LZ/Z HPDI

CDI OUTPUT

140

Blk/Org, Blk/Yel, Blk/Blue, Blk/Grn, Blk/Wht to Red/Yel

140

0.5

4-6 K

220

19841986

9001100

21-27

75

14

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

1.6

58

0.5

2.5 K

5K

225

19841989

9001100

21-27

75

14

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

1.6

58

0.5

2.5 K

5K

225

19901995

L/HP

660820

62-79

145

40

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

105

0.5

3.8 K

5K

225

19961997

L/HP

660820

62-79

145

40

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

280460

130

0.5

4.1 K

5K

225

19941995

X/HP U/HP

224336

224336

90

90

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

294398

100

0.5

2.7 K

5K

225

20022004

CDI OUTPUT

252

Blk/Org to Red/Yel Blk/Yel to Red/Yel Blk/Wht to Red/Yel

459561

5.3

252

1.5-1.9

19.635.4 k

None

225

19962002

S/X/U L/LX/SX

224-336

115

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

294398

100

0.5

2.7 K

5K

225

19982004

VX

224-336

115

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

294398

100

0.5

2.7 K

5K

225

20032004

VZ HPDI

224-336

160

Red to Blk/Wht

294398

3.5

160

1.872.53

8.9312.08 K

None

250

19901996

224-336

90

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

294398

100

0.5

2.7 K

5K

250

19972002

224-336

115

Brn to Red

Blue to Blk/Red

294398

100

0.5

2.7 K

5K

74

YAMAHA DVA and RESISTANCE CHARTS

HP YEAR # Cyl STATOR STK MDL OHMS DVA CHECK POINTS OHMS DVA CHECK POINTS TRIGGER CDI Out IGNITION COIL OHMS +/- 10% SPK PLG CAP

L Spd

HSpd

LS

HS

HS

LS

Ohms

DVA Wht/Red to Blk Wht/Grn to Blk Wht/Blk to Blk Wht/Blue to Blk Wht/Yel to Blk Wht/Brn to Blk Wht/Red to Blk Wht/Grn to Blk Wht/Blk to Blk Wht/Blue to Blk Wht/Yel to Blk Wht/Brn to Blk

Primary

Sec

250

2003-2004

HPDI

CDI OUTPUT

160

Red to Blk/Wht

294-398

3.5

140

1.87-2.53

8.9312.08 K

None

300

2004

LZ/VZ/Z HPDI

CDI OUTPUT

265

Red to Blk/Wht

294-398

3.5

265

1.36-1.84

7.31 9.89 K

None

75

Glossary of Terms
ADI Alternator Driven Ignition, consists of a flywheel, stator, trigger and ignition module. ADTC - After Top Dead Center Reference on ignition timing. BTDC - Before Top Dead Center Reference on ignition timing. CD Ignition Capacitive Discharge Ignition. The capacitor stores the power developed by a stator or inverter and uses a SCR to deliver the power to the ignition coil. CDM Capacitive Discharge Module. The CDM is a combination of the switch box and ignition coil. Crank - Refers to the engine being turned over with the starter, not running. Spark plug wires are usually connected to a spark gap tester. DVA Direct Voltage Adapter. Also known as Peak voltage. The term refers to the peak voltage as read by a specialized meter or a multimeter using a adapter to convert the peak voltage in the ignition system to a DC value. Regular meters cannot read the voltages due to the frequency and duration of the pulses in the system. Power Pack Term used by Johnson/Evinrude for the ignition module. RPM Revolutions per minute. The number of times the engine rotates in one minute. S.L.O.W. Speed Limiting Oil Warning system. Limits the RPM of the engine to approximately 2500 RPM in order to reduce the damage to the engine caused by a no oil or overheat condition. Spark Tester - Device used to check for spark from the ignition coil to the spark plug. Testers are normally available in 1, 4, 6 and 8 cylinder configurations. Switch Box Term used for Force, Mariner and Mercury ignition modules. W.O.T. Wide Open Throttle.

76

CDI ELECTRONICS OUTBOARD SERVICE BULLETIN

12/06/2003 Models affected: CDI Bulletin # 2276 Rev.1 Johnson/Evinrude 60 HP 1986 (CE) through 1994 (ER) Johnson/Evinrude 65 HP 1987 (CU) through 1994 (ER) Johnson/Evinrude 70 HP 1989 (CD) through 1994 (ER)

Problem: The engine and electrical system can become damaged by overheating when air is trapped in the upper half of the cooling system. Trapped air can cause the upper cylinder or regulator/rectifier to overheat, resulting in damage to the piston or regulator (also damaging the stator). Air can become trapped when: 1. The engine is idling with a blocked or restricted thermostat bypass hole. 2. The engine is operated in aerated water, such as a pontoon or deck boat wakes. SOLUTION: Relocate the water pump indicator outlet tee (for the pee tube) from the side of the engine block to the top of the engine cylinder block. This allows air to be vented from the top of the cooling system and helps ensure an adequate water level when idling. If the engine does not have a threaded hole located in the top of the cylinder block, please follow the steps below: 1. Remove the indicator hose from the outlet tee and discard. 2. Remove the outlet tee. 3. Install a 1/8th inch NPT brass or aluminum pipe plug into the hole where the tee was located (use gel-seal on the threads). (See fig. 1) 4. Measure 2 inches forward from the rear corner of the exhaust manifold cover (ref A) and 1-3/8th inches from the exhaust cover gasket (Ref to B). Mark the intersection with a center punch. (See fig. 2). 5. Mark an 11/32nd (Letter R) drill bit inch from the tip (to prevent damage to the water jacket) as a depth gauge. Grease the tip and drill a hole through the casting. The grease will help prevent shavings from entering the cooling system. 6. Grease the tip of an 1/8th NPT tap and thread the hole. 7. Apply gel-seal to the threads of the original tee and install it in the hole you just tapped. Position the tee so that the indicator nipple is facing the back of the engine. 8. Install a new piece of 3/16th hose (19 inches long) from the tee to the indicator.

77

Modified Engine Wiring Diagrams for CDI Electronics Components

78

Modified Engine Wiring Diagrams for CDI Electronics Components

79

Modified Engine Wiring Diagrams for CDI Electronics Components

80

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