Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

SOFIA “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-

written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times

April-June 2009

July- September 2009

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-

written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times

Bulgarian Beers
Cheers!
Medical Tourism
in Bulgaria
No 15
www.inyourpocket.com
Enjoy your White Smile, Dirt Cheap
COMPLIMENTARY
COPY
of Sofia
In Your Pocket
 Contents 3

Whether you came here

on a business trip or as
tourist, wel come to our
city. Sofia has a lot to offer
for everybody. I would rec-
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S ommend you to read care-
fully through this fresh copy
Contents of In Your Pocket where you
have a nearl y complete
overview of places to stay,
Arriving in Sofia 7 places to eat and where to
spend your free moments.
Touching down For every budget Sofia has
an appropriate answer.
The Basics 8 Sofia during the summer months usually can be
Essential reading for those not sure where quite hot. Together with the rise in temperature
also the southern temper goes up. So here a word
they are of caution while you tramp our streets, look twice
before you cross!
History 12 Sofia is rich in opportunities for themed cultural
How the past has shaped the present itineraries relation to landscape and garden art. There
are 38 monuments of the „green wealth” – one of the
Introducing Sofia 13 most significant ones is the Borisova Gradina (Boris’
Mayor of Sofia garden) which is a cultural monument of national
significance and dates 120 years back. Parks in Sofia
Keeping in touch 14 are not only refreshing source of welcome shade, but
often also a rich source of culture and chance to get
Let your Mum know how you are in touch with the local population.
If you need of further assistance I would kindly invite
Culture & Events 16 you to visit the National Tourist Information Centre.
Rila Monastery (p.6 ) The helpful stuff there distributes free advertis-
ing materials and maps about Bulgaria as a tourist
Hot Djs on the beach”
&
destination gives ansers to all sorts of queries.
Bansko International Jazz Festival I wish you a wonderful time in our gorgeous capital
Bansko during summer? city,
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Where to stay 24 Anelia Krushkova
Dining & Nightlife Chairperson
Bulgarian State Agency for Tourism
Dining & Nightlife
Restaurants 32
Where to wine and dine
Cafés 41
Feed the addiction
Nightlife 42 Puzzle 57
Enough to keep any pub crawlers on their hands Golf  58
and knees Golfing in Bulgaria, Golf Jokes
What to see 49 Getting around 60
Making sense of transport
Directory
Shopping 65
Health & Lifestyle 68
Sports 71
Business 73
Maps & Index
Street index 74
Index 75
City map 76
Public transport map 78
Bulgaria map 79

Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com

4 Foreword arriving in sofia 5

Summer is upon us despite the resistance from the clouds
and the mood of the city is one of relaxation & parties.
As the temperature begins to soar, the layers of clothing
diminish and the desire to work seems to fall with every
degree that thermometer rises. The streets fill with pe-
ople in the warm evenings and tables and chairs dot the
pavement outside every bar, restaurant and café. The
parks are swarming with people during the evenings &
weekends, making the most of the warmth and long hours
of daylight; you will see people drinking, mingling and even
the occasional fire dancer. The city is at its most attracti-
ve with all of the trees in full bloom and the atmosphere
during this time of year makes the city at its most vibrant.
The current financial situation is of course having its impact
on Sofia as much as anywhere else, but the Bulgarians
are certainly hardened to difficult economic times and
compared to the dark days of the mid to late 90’s, this
is a drop in the ocean. As a result people are still eating
out, partying and living the summer life; namely, it’s busi-
ness as usual. Even the elections seemed to be a quiet
distraction to the more important task of catching up with
friends at a trendy café in the centre or nice bar in the park.
Relax. There seem to be more signs, written in the
Europe In Your Pocket English language on major roads, and there are more and Street smarts
more Bulgarians, who feel confident to speak “English”.
After all, they have been watching American subbed Street Улица (ул.) Ulitsa (ul.)
movies for years, and even some gas-pumping people Square Площад (пл.) Ploshtad (pl.)
have university degrees. The more you get stuck in traffic Boulevard Булевард (бул.) Boulevard (bul.)
jams and the harder it is to park, then you must be in the Highway Магистрала Magistrala
city centre. Bridge Мост Most
By plane pick up tram No 1 or 7 outside the train station (see above).
Sofia International Airport (Letishte Sofia), 10km east There is a taxi booking office just beside the main exit.
of the city centre, is divided into two terminals - the aging Some international buses arrive at the Trafik-Market termi-
Terminal 1 and the modern Terminal 2, opened in 2006. nal mid-way between the main train and bus stations. As this
The arrivals halls at both terminals boast cafés, car-hire is nothing more than a parking lot bordered by ticket offices
and taxi counters, information desk, ATMs and exchange
bureaux (although beware that rates here are not particu-
larly generous, so it’s best to only change enough cash for
immediate survival).
Getting to town: avoid the taxi touts, thronging the arriv-
als halls and head instead for the official ranks of yellow
taxis parked outside (OK Supertrans and Taxi S Express),
or visit their counters. The fare into town shouldn’t cost

To help also hotels, restaurants and other business more
pro-actively, we gave these the possibility for their possible
promotions, to be freely included within the text of their
independently written review by us from In Your Pocket.
We recommend you to keep your ‘Sofia In Your Pocket’ just
where it belongs – in your pocket, so you can also benefit
from these promotions. We from In Your Pocket Bulgaria
disclaim however to be responsible for any of the offers made
in this Pocket, or any other previous or future edition.
In this edition you will find useful information to help you with
suggestions on where to shake your boots, fill your stomach
or catch up on your beauty sleep.
In Your Pocket is Europe’s biggest publisher of
locally produced travel guides, producing more
than 3.5 million guides per year. With print guides
to more than 50 cities across the continent,
travellers ask for In Your Pocket guides by name:
more than 16Lv (€8).
Alternatively, you can catch the bus - No 84 from Terminal
1 or No 284 from Terminal 2. Both run to Orlov Most (C-5)
on the eastern fringes of the city centre, departing roughly
every 10-15 minutes between 05:00 and 23:00. Tickets
cost 1Lv from the kiosks beside the bus stop, or from the
driver. You also have to buy a separate ticket for each bulky
piece of luggage; otherwise, you run the risk of being fined
by ticket inspectors.
and café kiosks, you’ll have to walk to the main stations on
By train either side to find any facilities.

Cover story
Church of the Holy Seven (Tsarkva Sveti
Sedmochislenitsi). It is one of Sofia’s fin-
est neo-Byzantine churches. Read more
on p.53
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Sofia In Your Pocket
Mladost 4, bl. 473, vh. 2-3,
parter
(opposite the Business Park)
1715 Sofia, Bulgaria
tel.: + 359 2 881 01 02
fax: + 359 2 881 53 32
sofia@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1312-742X
© Discover Bulgaria Ltd.
Printed by Delta High Print EAD
Published 4 times per year
15 000 copies
they trust our content and our flawless levels of
accuracy. In Your Pocket remains committed
to its founding aim of covering the world with
well researched, well written and informative city
guides. This year we will be launching new guides
in Glasgow, Sarajevo and Vienna. If you think
that you can contribute to helping us realise our
dream, and think you have what it takes to publish
your own In Your Pocket guide, get in touch with
us at pocketmycity@inyourpocket.com.
Editorial
Editor-in-chief Steven MacAulay
Copyright notice
Research Thomas Brailsford, Rumiana Text and photos copyright Discover Bulgaria
Benova, Maya Kozareva Ltd. – Bulgaria In Your Pocket 2009. Maps
Layout & Design Margarit Antonov copyright cartographer. All rights reser­
ved. No part of this publication may be re-
Photos Veronica de Boer
Cover Veronica de Boer produced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written
Sales & Circulation permission from the publisher and copy-
Publisher Discover Bulgaria Ltd. right owner. The brand name In Your Pock-
General Manager Veronica de Boer et is used under license from UAB In Your
Marketing Manager and PR Petya Racheva
Sales & Circulation To contact our sales
Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.
(+370-5) 212 29 76.
team send an email to info@discover- Editor’s note
bulgaria.com, or call our office and ask for the
sales department. The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
Available from Airports – Burgas, Varna advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly
and Sofia, airline companies, rent-a-cars, marked as such. We welcome all readers’
hotels, bars, restaurants, business centres, comments and suggestions. We have
shopping malls, foreign embassies and made every effort to ensure the accuracy
international forums. To order your copy of the information at the time of going to
online visit www.inyourpocket.com press and assume no responsibility for
changes and errors.
Sofia’s Central Station (Tsentralna gara), open 05:00
- 24:00, is an unwelcoming concrete hangar 20-minute
walk north of the city centre. Facilities include left-luggage,
money exchange kiosks, ATMs, bars and fast-food outlets.
Beware of pickpockets who hang around the station and the
adjoining underpass. There are coin-operated left-luggage
lockers in the basement (2Lv for 24hrs), and a left-luggage
office (garderob) just off the eastern side of the main ticket
hall (open 06:00 - 23:00; 2Lv per item).
Cheapest way of getting to town is to hop on tram No 1
or 7 (buy ticket from kiosks or from the driver - 1 Lv) from
opposite the station forecourt - head for the subterranean
underpass to find the platform. Either of these will take
you to pl. Sveta Nedelya, well placed for central Sofia’s
amenities - get off when you see the Sheraton Hotel loom-
ing up on your left.
The taxi drivers hovering outside the station are an unpre-
dictable bunch; check that their meters are switched on
or agree a flat fare before setting off; otherwise walk 200
metres east to the bus station (see below) where the taxi
firms are more reputable.
By bus
Most international and domestic buses arrive at the
spanking new Central Bus Station (Tsentralna Avtogara),
200m east of the Central Railway Station. Compared to
other points of arrival the bus station is comfortingly
civilized, with clean toilets, plenty of shops and cafés, a
pharmacy, and an ATM. There is a 24-hour left-luggage
office (2-3Lv depending on size of bag) in the main ticket
hall.
To get into the centre of town from here, stroll either south
down bul. Maria Luiza (15-20 min), or walk 200m west to
By car
Regardless of your point of entry, you deserve plaudits for
being so brave. The first thing you need to do is reduce your
speed to avoid the many police checks on incoming roads.
Follow the lead of other cars (not the ones who overtake
and temporarily drive on the wrong side of the road) and
get patiently in line should you encounter a traffic jam,
which are unfortunately becoming more and more frequent,
especially during rush hour. Parking can be difficult to find
in the city, and you should be aware that the blue zones
cost 1Lv per hour. Failure to pay can lead to clamping and
your car being towed away after 2 hours. Parking vouch-
ers are sold on the spot by parking attendants or you can
just send SMS to 1302 with your registration number (for
Bulgarian and transit license plate numbers), and you will
be notified when the time is up, giving you the chance to
pay for the next hour.
BOOK ON: +359 2 981 46 26,
reservations@europcar.bg, www.europcar.bg
Free delivery / collection
“Please leave this copy of In Your Pocket where
someone else might benefit from it.”

Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009

6 Basics
Alcohol
The archetypal national tipple is rakiya, which usually comes
as either grozdova rakiya (grape brandy) or slivova (plum).
It’s usually served up in 50g or 100g shots and is consumed
alongside salad or some other form of nibble – wait-staff will
consider you peculiar if you don’t order at least something to
snack on while you’re slugging down spirits. As far as beer is
concerned, Bulgaria produces several palatable if unexciting
lagers – Zagorka, Shumensko and Kamenitsa are the most
reliable of the big brands. Much more impressive are the dry
red wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon from Svishtov and
Oryahovitsa, Merlot from Stambolovo, Gumza from Novo Selo,
Mavrud from Asenovgrad, and Melnik from the village of same
name. The Chardonnays and Traminers from Veliki Preslav are
among the best of the whites.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU, those over 18 can now take
10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries
will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Bulgaria.
You’re not allowed to export antiques, artworks or coins
of numismatic value unless you have a permit issued by
the Ministry of Culture. Due to fears about child trafficking,
travellers with small children may be asked for documentary
evidence of their parental relationship before being allowed
to leave the country.
Electricity
Bulgaria runs on a 220 volt electricity supply (so some
visitors will need to bring a transformer). Standard con­
tinental two-prong plugs are used, so others will need to
furnish themselves with an adaptor, if they want to use their
hairdryer/phone/ charger/laptop.
Tourist information
The helpful stuff there distributes free advertising
materials and maps about Bulgaria as a tourist des-
tination gives ansers to all sorts of queries.
I wish you a wonderful time in our gorgeous capital
city,
The National Tourist Information Centre B-3,
pl. Sveta Nedelya 1, tel. 933 58 45, fax 989 69
39, info@bulgariatravel.org, www.bulgariatravel.
org. The Tourist Information Centre has undergone
a far-reaching facelift in the past few months, and
now constitutes an inviting and altogether quite chic
info-boutique, equipped with designer bar-stools for
tourists to perch on while helpful staff distribute free
maps or search their databases for the answers to all
sorts of queries. They aren’t authorized to make hotel
reservations on tourists’ behalf, but they do distribute
well-informed locally-published guides like this one.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski
20B (entrance from ul. Lavele), tel. 980 51 02, fax
980 32 00, info@zigzagbg.com, www.zigzagbg.
com. The staff at this private travel agency, specializing
in individual and alternative holidays are a mine of invalu-
able information - be aware however that they charge a
5Lv consultancy fee (which is deducted from the cost
of any arrangements you book through them). QOpen
08:30 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sofia In Your Pocket
Smoking
Cafès, bars and restaurants are required by law to provide an
area for non-smokers. In practice however this will probably
consist of one or two tables, surrounded on all sides by
nicotine addicts happily puffing away.
Visas
Citizens of the EU, Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the
USA can stay in the country visa-free for 90 days. Nationals
of other countries should contact the Bulgarian embassies or
consulates in their home countries about visa arrangements.
Note that visas cannot be obtained at the border. If you wish
to extend your visit beyond the 90-day period you should
apply for a long term stay or residence permit from the
Immigration Office, bul. Maria Luiza 48, tel. 982 37 64. Open
09:00 – 17:00. Closed Sat & Sun.
Key phrases
The following is a list of some of the most common words
and phrases a person is likely to need.
Hello Zdravey
Goodbye Dovizhdane
Please Molya
You’re welcome Pak zapovyadayte
Thank you Blagodarya
Excuse me Izvinete
Yes / No Da / Ne
Cheers Nazdrave
I don’t understand Ne razbiram
I don’t know Ne znam
Do you speak English? Govorite li angliyski?
What’s up? Kakvo stava?
Good morning! Dobro utro!
Good afternoon / evening! Dobar den / vecher!
Good night! Leka nosht!
Have you got…? Imate li…?
Where can I buy…? Kade moga da kupya…?
How many / how much? Kolko / Kolko struva?
Good / bad Dobro / losho
Expensive / cheap Skapo / evtino
New / old Novo / staro
Hot / cold Toplo / studeno
Days of week
Monday Ponedelnik
Tuesday Vtornik
Wednesday Sryada
Thursday Chetvartak
Friday Petak
Saturday Sabota
Sunday Nedelya
Numbers
1 edno
2 dve
3 tri
4 chetiri
5 pet
6 shest
7 sedem
8 osem
9 devet
10 deset
100 sto
1000 hilyada
sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009
8 Basics
Roads & Traffic police
Most Bulgarians turn into psychopaths as soon as they get
behind the wheel of a car, although given the state of the road
network one can hardly blame them. Cow-sized potholes,
suicidal pedestrians and drunken cyclists riding on the wrong
side of the road are just some of the things to look out for –
and with hazards like these you need to swerve around like
a stunt driver in order to stay in one piece.
Streets in central Sofia can be clogged with traffic. Road
signage is haphazard and street names are almost exclusively
in Cyrillic, so you need to research your route on a map before
you set off. Finding a place to park can be a nightmare. A lot so-
called blue-zone parking areas are run by private companies.
Parking vouchers (1Lv/hour) are sold on the spot by parking
attendants. In order to drive on Bulgarian roads outside Sofia
you’ll need to purchase a vignette which must be displayed in
the windscreen. You can get these from border crossings, all
post offices and OMV and Shell gas stations. For a car or SUV
vignettes cost 10Lv for one week, 25Lv for one month, and
67Lv for a year. Speed limits are 130km/hr on main highways,
90km/hr on minor roads and 50km/hr in urban areas.
Talking on a mobile phone while driving is strictly forbidden,
as is driving under the influence of more than 0.5/1000 of
alcohol. Foreigners are well advised to obey the rules of the
road even if they see locals behaving otherwise: the police
rarely speak English and are unlikely to show any lenience.
Police checks on major highways are common, especially
when entering or leaving Sofia at the weekend. Policeman are
Basic data
Territory: Bulgaria takes up 110, 550 km2 of land. It
shares borders with Turkey, Greece, Macedonia, Serbia
and Romania. The country is bordered to the east by a
354km-long stretch of Black Sea coastline.
Rivers: The main rivers in the country are Danube,
Maritsa, Mesta, Struma, Iskar, Yantra. There are more
than 600 warm and cold mineral springs.
Highest Point: Musala (2925m), south of Sofia in the
Rila mountains.
Population of Bulgaria: 7,385,367 (July 2006 est.)
Population of Sofia: 1,377,531 (July 2006 est.)
Local time: Bulgaria is part of the Eastern European Time
Zone (GMT +2); when it is noon in Sofia it is 11:00 in Berlin,
10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York City.
Religion: Traditional religion in the Republic of Bulgaria
is Eastern Orthodox Christianity. Orthodox 85%, Muslim
8%, others 7%.
allowed to charge on-the-spot fines up to 50 Lv.
Market values
How do costs compare to back home? Here is handy list
of local prices to give you an idea.
Leva Euro
Loaf of white bread 1.00 0.50
Snickers bar 0.80 0.40
Vodka (.750ltr, Bulgarian) 8.50 4.36
0.5ltr beer (bar) 2.00 1.02
0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.80 0.40
A pack of Marlboros 3.90 2.00
McDonald‘s Big Mac 3.59 1.84
Exchange rates (as of April 2009): US$1 - 1.47Lv;
€1 – 1.95Lv; £1 – 2.17Lv
Sofia In Your Pocket
The Cyrillic Alphabet
Аа a as in arm
Бб b as in bath
Вв v as in van
Гг g as in go
Дд d as in dog
Ее e as in let
Жж zh as ’s’ in measure
Зз z as in zoo
Ии i as in bit
Йй y as in yoke
Кк k as in keep
Лл l as in like
Мм m as in map
Нн n as in not
Оо o as in opera
Пп p as in pen
Рр r as in run
Сс s as in sit
Тт t as in tap
Уу u as in rule
Фф f as in fan
Хх h as in hand
Цц ts as in cuts
Чч ch as in church
Шш sh as in short
Щщ sht as in smashed
Ъъ
Ьь
a
softens ’o’
as in
as in
but
yoga
Юю yu as in you
Яя ya as in yard
National holidays
January 1: New Year’s Day (Nova godina)
March 3: Liberation Day (Liberation from the Ottoman
rule) (Denyat na osvobozhdenieto)
April 19: Easter (Velikden)
May 1: Labour Day (Denyat na truda)
May 6: St. George’s Day (Gergyovden; Day of the Bul-
garian Army)
May 24: St. St. Cyril and Methodius (Sveti Sveti Kiril
i Metodiy; Day of the Cyrillic Alphabet and Bulgarian
Education and Culture)
September 6: Unification Day (Saedinenieto; mark-
ing the unification of Bulgaria and Eastern Rumelia in
1885)
September 22: Independence Day (Denyat na neza-
visimostta)
December 24,25,26: Christmas (Koleda)
Important phone numbers
Fire: 160
Ambulance: 150
Police: 166
Road assistance: 146
Anti-corruption unit: +359 2 982 22 22, www.nocorr.
mvr.bg
Telephone information: 11800
Breakdown Service: 02/91146 or 146 if you’re calling
from a Bulgarian mobile
sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009
10 history Introducing sofia
history 11

History Recent History The history of Sofia, Bulgaria’s

Antiquity In antiquity, Bulgaria, the land of Orpheus and
Spartacus, belongs to the Kingdom of Macedonia.
4th century BC The territory of contemporary Bulgaria is
conquered by the Macedonians, lead by Philip II and his son
Alexander the Great. During the first century AD these lands
become Roman provinces.
632 The History of Bulgaria as a separate country begins
with the establishment of Old Great Bulgaria (also known
as Onoguria).
681 First Bulgarian Kingdom is established by Khan
Asparuh.
865 Bulgaria becomes a Christian country. Tsar Boris I ac-
cepts Orthodox Christianity.
9th-10th centuries “The Golden Age” period under the rule of
Tsar Simeon the Great. The Slavic writing is officially accepted
throughout the country. Literature schools, imposing temples
and monasteries are built. Bulgaria has an outlet on three
seas - the Black sea, Aegean Sea and the Adriatic. The capital
is moved to Veliki Preslav, which during that period could be
compared with the beauty and glory of Constantinople.
1018 Bulgaria falls under Byzantine rule until 1185.
1185 The Second Bulgarian Kingdom (1185-1396) is founded
after two brothers, Asen and Peter. The capital city of the new
kingdom becomes Veliko Turnovo.
12th-13th centuries Under the rule of the Tsar Kaloyan (1197-
1207) and Tsar Ivan Asen II (1218-1241), Bulgaria becomes
a dominant power in the Balkans.
1393 The Ottomans occupy the Bulgarian capital Veliko
Turnovo after a three-month siege.
1396 The Kingdom of Vidin is occupied, bringing the Second
Bulgarian Empire and Bulgarian independence to an end.
14th-18th centuries By the end of the 14th century, the
Turks control all of Bulgaria. Ottoman rule continues for five
centuries.
18th century The Age of the Bulgarian National Revival begins.
In spite of the resistance of the central Turkish authorities and
the Greek clergy (the so-called phanariots), the struggle for an
independent church, the publication of books and, later on, of
periodicals in the Bulgarian language, the establishment of lay
Bulgarian schools and the official recognition of the language
and culture, become real steps to the revival of the nation.
One important landmark was the writing of the Slav-Bulgarian
History (1762) by monk Paissi of Hilendar.
1876 Bulgarian revolutionaries launch the April Uprising at
Koprivshtitsa. The Turks suppress it with unprecedented
brutality. About 15,000 Bulgarians are massacred at Plovdiv
and 58 villages destroyed. Outraged European allies come to
Bulgaria’s rescue in the late 1870s. Russia, the chief saviour,
suffers 200,000 casualties in the conflict.
1877-1878 The Russian-Turkish war leads to the liberation
of Bulgaria from the Ottoman Empire.
March 1878 The Treaty of San Stefano provides for an
independent Bulgarian state, which spans the geographical
regions of Moesia, Thrace and Macedonia.
July 1878 The Treaty of Berlin, under the supervision of Otto
von Bismarck of Germany and Benjamin Disraeli of Britain,
splits Bulgaria into three parts: an independent Principality of
Bulgaria based in Sofia, the autonomous Ottoman province
of Eastern Roumelia; and Macedonia, which remains under
direct Ottoman rule.
April 1879 The Turnovo Constitution is passed by the First
Grand National Assembly.
June 1879 Alexander Battenberg becomes prince of Bulgaria,
and Sofia becomes the capital of the new Bulgarian state.
September 1885 Eastern Rumelia declares union with
Bulgaria.
1887 A coup replaces Alexander Battenberg with Ferdinand
of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha.
Sofia In Your Pocket
In June 2001, the Bulgarian monarchy makes an
unprecedented comeback when former king Simeon II is
elected prime minister. Unable to ease economics hard-
ships for the majority, however, he too sees his popular-
ity plummet after a few months in power. In the same
election, the country’s Turkish minority is represented
in the government for the first time, and the president
encourages Bulgarians to be more tolerant of Turkish-
Bulgarians. Progress continues under President Georgi
Parvanov, albeit slower than most hope. Membership of
NATO is granted in 2004, and entry into the European
Union follows in 2007.
July 27, 2005 the Bulgarian Parliament chose Sergey
Stanishev of the Bulgarian Socialist Party as the new
Prime Minister in a coalition government with the Move-
ment for Rights and Freedoms. August 15, 2005 the
BSP and National Movement Simeon II formed a stable
government, along with the Movement for Rights and
Freedoms. This coalition has a large majority in parliament
with 169 of the 240 deputies. Parliamentary elections will
be held in Bulgaria on July 5, 2009.
September 1908 Ferdinand upgrades Bulgaria from prin-
cipality to kingdom and declares himself Tsar.
1912-1913 The Nationalist Prime Minister, Ivan Geshov,
forms an alliance with Greece and Serbia to attack the
Ottomans and to drive them out of Macedonia and Thrace.
The Balkan Wars are sparking. The alliance soon fall out,
with Greeks and Serbs expelling Bulgarian forces from
Macedonia, and then dividing up the spoils.
1915-1918 Bulgaria joins the German side in World War I. A
Serb-French-British offensive in Macedonia causes Bulgaria’s
collapse. Ferdinand abdicates in favour of son Boris III.
1919 Elections are won by the Peasant party of Aleksandar
Stamboliyski promising widespread social change.
1923-1934 Democratically elected governments are
toppled via coups that bring authoritarian regimes to
power.
1941 Bulgaria enters World War II on the side of the
Rome-Berlin-Tokyo Axis. The country is the only ally of
Hitler’s Germany which did not allow the killing of its Jewish
citizens. It was thanks to king Boris III and to the Bulgarian
governments that no hostilities are waged in the country’s
territory.
1944 After World War II, as a result of the Yalta agreements
between the Great Powers, Bulgaria ends up in the field of
influence of the Soviet Union.
1953-1989 Years of the communist rule of Todor Zhivkov
who headed both the party and the state.
10 November 1989 Under pressure from domestic and
international circumstances Todor Zhivkov is forced to
resign. Bulgaria once again takes the road of democratic
development.
7 December 1989 The Union of Democratic Forces (SDS) is
formed as a unification of 13 opposition organisations.
June 1990 First free parliamentary elections.
12 July 1991 A new democratic Constitution is passed.
13 October 1991 First free local authorities elections.
1992 First free presidential elections. Zhelyu Zhelev is
elected head of state.
3 November 1996 Petar Stoyanov, proposed by the SDS,
is elected with President of the Republic of Bulgaria with a
landslide majority.
19 April 1997 The Parliamentary elections are won by the
Democratic Forces United. A government is formed headed
by Ivan Kostov as Prime-Minister. Bulgaria starts on the road
of genuine democratic reforms.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
capital and largest city, spans
thousands of years from antiqui-
ty to modern times. Throughout
its existence, the city has always
been a commercial, industrial,
cultural and economic centre of
the Balkans region. Sofia has
always been well known for its
mineral resources, neighbouring
mountains and historical sights.
Antiquity
Sofia is originally a Thracian settlement called Serdica,
named after the Thracian tribe Serdi that had populated it.
4th century BC For a short period the city is possessed by
Philip of Macedonia and his son Alexander the Great.
29 AD Sofia is conquered by the Romans and renamed Ulpia
Serdica. It becomes a municipium, or centre of an adminis-
trative region, during the reign of Emperor Trayan (98-117).
447 The city is destroyed by the Huns, but is rebuilt by Byz-
antine Emperor Justinian and renamed Triaditsa. Although
also often destroyed by the Slavs, the town remains under
Byzantine dominion until 809.
Middle Ages
809 Sofia becomes part of the First Bulgarian Kingdom during
the reign of Khan Krum.
1018 The city again falls to the Byzantine Empire.
12th-14th centuries Sofia is a thriving centre of trade and
crafts. It is renamed Sofia (meaning “wisdom” in Greek) in
1376 after the Church of St Sophia. However, it is called both
“Sofia” and “Sredets” until the 16th century, when the new
name gradually replaced the old one.
Ottoman rule
1382 Sofia is conquered by the Ottoman sultan Murad I.
Many Ottoman buildings emerge during the period. Very
few of them have survived, including only a single mosque,
Banya Bashi. The Ottoman rule saw a major demographic
growth, as the city grew from a total population of 6,000
(1620s) through 55,000 (middle 17th century) to 70-80,000
(18 th century data from foreign travellers, albeit possibly
exaggerated).
16th century Sofia is a thriving trade centre inhabited by
Turks, Bulgarians, Romaniote, Ashkenazi, and Sephardic Jews,
Armenians, Greeks and Ragusan merchants. During the
next century the city’s population included even Albanians
and Persians.
17th century The Vatican establishes the Bishopric of Sofia
for Ottoman subjects belonging to the Catholic millet in
Rumelia, which existed until 1715 when most Catholics had
emigrated to Habsburg or Tsarist territories.
1878 Sofia is liberated by Russian forces in 1878, during the
Russian-Turkish War (1877-1878)
1879 The city becomes the capital of the autonomous
Principality of Bulgaria, which becomes Kingdom of Bulgaria
in 1908.
1900 The City Council approves the emblem of Sofia and the
motto “It Grows but Does not Age”.
1925 The gravest act of terrorism in Bulgarian history, the
St Nedelya Church assault, is carried out by the Bulgar-
ian Communist Party, claiming the lives of 150 and injuring
another 500.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Mayor of Sofia
Mr. Boyko Borisov is the current mayor of Sofia City and
the informal leader of the party “Citizens for European
Development in Bulgaria” (GERB in Bulgarian), the acro-
nym meaning Coat of Arms in English. With his mandate
approaching its end, Mr. Borisov is about to officially
enter the parliamentary elections, planned for June this
year, running for the position of prime minister. Despite
his rather controversial personality, he is one of the most
popular figures in Bulgarian politics today. Mr. Borisov
graduated from the National Military Academy and was
a member of the communist party. After the fall of com-
munism, in 1991, he founded a private security company,
which later guarded people like Todor Zhivkov and Sim-
eon II. From 2001 until 2005 he was Chief Secretary of
the Bulgarian Ministry of Interior, but resigned in order
to enter the elections for mayor of Sofia.
World War II
Sofia is bombed by Allied aircraft in late 1943 and early 1944,
as well as later occupied by the Soviet Union.
Bulgaria’s regime, which has allied the countr y wi th
Nazi Germany, is overthrown and Sofia becomes capital
of the Communist-ruled People’s Republic of Bulgaria
(1944–1989).
Totalitarian regime
(9 September 1944-10 November 1989) During the
years of communism, Sofia becomes the nation’s major
economic, academic and cultural centre. From its years
of socialist growth, however, the capital inherited a great
deal of problems, which are at present the priorities of the
democratically - elected council of Sofia.
1992 In honour of the celebration of St. Sofia the Martyr, the
Government chose September 17th as the Day of Sofia. The
flag of Sofia Municipality is also consecrated on that day. The
Day of Sofia is also celebrated like the Day of saints Vyara,
Nadezhda and Lyubov.
According to non official information nowadays Sofia has a
population about 3 million people. Most of them come to
the capital for work and business opportunities.
www.inyourpocket.com
July - September 2009
12 keeping in touch KEEPING IN TOUCH 13

Megalan Network H-8, ul. Yordan Yosifov 4, Business

Couriers
City Express C-3, ul. Gladston 58, tel. +359 2 912 12,
www.city-express.com. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00.
DHL G-9, ul. Prodan Tarakchiev 10, tel. +359 0 700
17 700., sofcustcare@dhl.com, www.dhl.bg. QOpen
09:00 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Direct F-7, ul. Rayna Knyaginya 7, tel. +359 2 928
98 98, direct@direct.bg, w w w.direct.bg. Q Open
09:00 - 17:30.
Free Wi-Fi zones W
Sofia may not be the best place in the world, in terms of
communication, but still the days of carrier pigeons are
long gone. There are several free Wi-Fi zones in town:
The park ”Gen. Vladimir Zaimov”, B-5
The park “Doktorskata Gradinka”, B-5
Central Bus Station, F-8
Shopping Center “Tsentralni hali”, A-2
NDK “Mostat na vlyubenite” (Lover’s Bridge), D-2
cenre Mania, fl.1, tel. +359 0800 18 400/+359 0800
20 400, info@megalan.bg, www.megalan.bg.
Power Net B-1, ul. Ovche pole 122, fl.3, tel. +359
2 987 65 43/+359 78 125 880, info@powernet.bg,
www.powernet.bg. LAN and cable Internet, free dial-up,
web services.
Spectrum Net G-8, bul. G.M.Dimitrov 36, tel. +359 2
489 06 00, info@spnet.net, www.spnet.net. All kinds of
Internet services.
Mobile phones
Globul Mladost-4, Business Park, building 6, tel. +359
2 942 80 00, fax +359 2 942 80 10, CustomerCare@
globul.bg, www.globul.bg. One of the main mobile opera-
tors. You can buy their b-connect pre-paid cards. For informa-
tion tel. +359 (0) 89 123.
MTel ul. Kukush 1, tel. +359 888 088 088, fax +359
888 500 885, customerservice@mobiltel.bg, www.mtel.
bg. Another major mobile operator. They sell prepaid cards for
the Prima network, available at most kiosks and shops.

Flying Cargo Bulgaria Ltd. (FedEx) G-9, ul. Nedelcho Vivatel C-1, bul. Totleben 8, tel. +359 087 123, www.
Bonchev 10, tel. +359 0 800 11 000, fax +359 2 973 Postal rates Laptop rental vivatel.bg. Bulgaria’s third mobile phone operator, started
13 66, www.flyingcargo-bg.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. in 2005.
Closed Sat, Sun. Bulgaria Europe USA & Others
Postcards 0.35 Lv 1.00 Lv 1.40 Lv
In Time /UPS/ G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 41, tel. Letters 0.55 Lv 1.00 Lv 1.40 Lv Phone rental
+359 2 960 99, fax +359 2 960 98 99, intime@intime. Intrafonica Bulgaria near Sofia International Airport,
bg, www.intime.bg. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - tel. +359 2 49 13 330, customer.service@intrafonica.
14:00. Closed Sun. Bulgarian main city codes com, www.intrafonica.com. Short- to mid-term GSM cell
phone rentals, local SIM cards and Mobile Internet services
Speedy D-3, bul. Cherni vrah 67, tel. +359 7001 7001, Blagoevgrad 73 Lovech 68 Sliven 44 delivered via GPRS, thus avoiding inflated roaming rates and
www.speedy.bg. Tel. 07001 8001 - for international deli- Burgas 56 Pazardzhik 34 Sofia 2 incoming call charges. Rental packages are delivered either
vary services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Dobrich 58 Pernik 76 Stara Zagora 42 to your hotel or to alternative address of your choice. Orders
Closed Sun. Gabrovo 66 Pleven 64 Varna 52 online available. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Haskovo 38 Plovdiv 32 V. Tarnovo 62 Rent-a-Laptop F-6, bul. Dj. Neru 28 office 56, tel. +359
Tip Top F-7, bul. Lomsko shose 35, tel. +359 2 936 99 2 827 25 40/+359 889 589 596, office@rentalaptop.
99, fax +359 2 936 98 10, tiptop@courier.bg, www.
Yambol 46 Ruse
Kyustendil 78 Silistra
82 Vidin
86 Vratsa
94
92 bg, www.rentalaptop.bg. Laptop rental, technical support Post
courier.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. and delivery to airport or hotel. Order online, delivery and pick- Central Post Office B-3, ul. Gurko 6, tel. +359 2 980
Closed Sun. The above codes should be prefixed with 0 if dialing up anytime. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12 25, www.bgpost.bg. Q Open 07:00 - 20:30, Sun
from inside Bulgaria. 08:00 - 13:00.
TNT G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 35, tel. +359 0700 11
666, fax +359 2 933 91 44, tnt.sales.bg@tnt.com, www.
tnt.com/country/bg_bg.html. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. International country codes
Internet cafes Austria
Belgium
43
32
Hungary 36
Ireland 353
Romania 40
Russia 7
Garibaldi C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 6, tel. +359 2 989 42 85, Bulgaria 359 Israel 972 Serbia 381
info@garibaldicafe.net, www.garibaldicafe.net. Eighteen Croatia 385 Italy 39 Slovenia 386
computers plus scanning, printing and low-rate international Czech Rep. 420 Japan 61 Spain 34
phone calls. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Price: 3.60Lv/hr. Denmark 45 Macedonia 389 Sweden 46
Finland 358 Netherlands 31 Switzerland 41
Matritsata C-2, ul. Neofit Rilski 70, www.ma3x.net. France 33 Norway 47 Turkey 90
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 2Lv/hr. Germany 49 Poland 48 UK 44
Greece 30 Portugal 351 USA/Canada 1
Site C-2, bul. Vitosha 45, tel. +359 2 986 08 96, info@ The above codes should be prefixed with 00 if dialing
siteout.net, www.siteout.net. Quiet, comfortable spot in a
from inside Bulgaria.
courtyard just off the street. Coffee and other drinks. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. Price: 2Lv/hr.

Virtus C-2, ul. Khan Asparuh 53, www.virtus.hit.bg. Bulgarian resort codes
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 2Lv/hr.
Albena 579 Pamporovo 3095
ISPs Balchik
Bansko
579
749
Sozopol
St. St. Konstantin
550

Bitex D-2, ul. Frityof Nansen 9, tel. +359 2 980 02 38, Borovets 750 and Elena 52
info@bitex.com, www.bitex.com. Dial-up services, wire- Golden sands 52 Sunny beach 554
less Internet, leased lines, hosting, web design. Nessebar 554
The above codes should be prefixed with 00 if dialing
CableTEL G-7, zh.k. Lozenets, bul. Nikola Vaptsarov from inside Bulgaria.
51A, tel. +359 2 480 01 11, info@cabletel.bg, www.
cabletel.bg. LAN and cable internet, IP telephony, cable and
digital TV. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Digital Systems B-3, ul. Triaditsa 4, tel. +359 2 981

13 01, fax +359 2 980 68 89, office-sofia@digsys.bg,
www.digsys.bg. Wireless network, cable internet, virtual
private networks, IP telephony, web services.

Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009

14 Culture & Events
If you can manage to tear yourself away from the fashion
and sport channels to which the TVs in Sofia’s cafes and
bars seem permanently tuned, there is a huge amount of
high-quality culture awaiting your enjoyment. Tickets for
all events are extremely affordable by western standarts,
so there’s really no excuse for giving such a rich cultural
menu a miss.
Art galleries
Goethe-Institut Sofia B-4, ul. Budapeshta 1, tel.
+359 2 939 01 00, fax +359 2 939 01 99, info@sofia.
goethe.org, www.goethe.de/sofia. Challenging and
off-beat contemporary art shows, in the German cultural
centre. QOpen , Mon, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Tue, Wed, Thu
14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
GreenCat Gallery C-5, ul. Varbiza 6, tel. +359 886
154 526, n.maneva@greencatgallery.com, w w w.
greencatgallery.com.
Maksim B-2, ul. Lom 1, tel. +359 2 988 10 62, info@
maxim-gallery.com, www.maxim-gallery.com. Contem-
porary work by leading Bulgarian painters and sculptors, in
a beautiful split-level space. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Rakursi C-3, ul. Khan Krum 4A, tel. +359 2 981 26 17,
gallery@rakursi.com, www.rakursi.com. Small private
gallery specializing in contemporary Bulgarian art, repre-
senting sizeable stable of established and emerging artists.
Extensive collection of paintings, graphics, photographs and
sculptures at all prices. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun.
Sculpture park G-8, ul. Aleksandar Zhendov 2, tel.
+359 2 948 20 36, culturalinstitute@mfa.government.
bg, www.sic.mfa.government.bg. In the Sculpture park
outside the Ministry of Foreign Affairs s are exhibited over 90
works created by Bulgarian sculptors from the 1930’s until
the present days and other monuments. QOpen , Sat, Sun
11:00 - 17:00.
Shipka 6 B-5, ul. Shipka 6, tel. +359 2 846 71 13, fax
+359 2 946 02 12, info@sbhart.com, www.sbhart.com.
Located in the upper storeys of the Bulgarian Artists’ Union
building, this hosts a wide variety of shows by artists from
Bulgaria and beyond. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Sibank Galeria B-3, ul. Slavyanska 2, tel. +359 2 939
92 80. Tucked away behind the National Theatre in the
headquarters of a major bank, this gallery concentrates on big
names from the contemporary Bulgarian art world. Expect the
kind of head-scratching installations and conceptual works
that are in short supply elsewhere. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 15:00 - 19:00.
The Red House (Chervenata kashta) C-4, ul.
Lyuben Karavelov 15, tel. +359 2 988 81 88, info@
redhouse-sofia.org, www.redhouse-sofia.org. An early
twentieth-century mansion now serving as a cutting-edge
cultural centre for Sofia’s arty set. There’s a meaty menu
of exhibitions, small-scale concerts, video screenings and
drama. QOpen 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cinemas
Arena Zapad F-7, bul. Todor Aleksandrov 64, tel. +359
2 920 99 99, www.kinoarena.com. Biggest of the multi-
plexes, with 15 screens, on-site pizzeria, ice cream parlour
Sofia In Your Pocket
The Bulgarian symbol
The Rila Monastery or officially:
The Monastery Saint John of Rila (Bulgarian:
Рилски манастир, Rilski manastir) is the larg-
est and most famous Eastern Orthodox monas-
tery in Bulgaria. It is situated in the northwestern
Rila Mountains, 117 km (73 mi) south of the capital
Sofia in the valley of the Rilska River at an eleva-
tion of 1,147 m above sea level. The monastery
is named after the famous Bulgaria saint and
hermit John of Rila.
Founded in the 10th century, the Rila Monastery
is regarded as one of Bulgaria’s most important
cultural, historical and architectural monuments.
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sofia.inyourpocket.com
and more. Near the Vardar metro station. Another branch at
H-8, Mladost-4, Business Park Sofia. Q (7-12Lv). PK
Cinema City B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 101,
tel. +359 2 981 19 11, fax +359 2 981 57 77, market-
ing@cinemacity.bg, www.cinemacity.bg. State-of-the-art
multiscreen in the Mall of Sofia shopping complex, surrounded
by fast-food outlets and other places to spend your money.
Also includes the Mtel Imax cinema, where you can sit back
in your 3-D spectacles and have your brain scrambled by the
twenty-four-metre-wide screen. Q (7-12Lv). P
Cineplex D-2, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. +359 2 964 30 07,
www.cineplex.bg. Nine-screen cinema on the top floor of
the City Center Sofia shopping mall. Not too far from the city
centre, and with loads of eating and drinking opportunities
in the mall itself. Q (6-12Lv). P
Euro Cinema B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 17,
tel. +359 2 980 41 61, fx_cin@hotmail.com. Well-chosen
menu of classy European flicks and non-mainstream choices.
Q (4-5Lv).
House of Cinema (Dom na kinoto) A-3, ul. Ekzarh
Yosif 37, tel. +359 2 980 39 11. This is the place for the
real movie buffs. If it won a prize at an obscure European
festival, it will probably be shown here. Q (6-7 Lv).
Kino Vlaykova C-5, ul. Tsar Ivan Asen 11, tel. +359 2
944 39 23. An old-fashioned, single-screen cinema in the
leafy Ivan Asen district, screening a mixture of art films and
Hollywood flicks. The cinema’s bar also serves as local pub
and snooker hall. Q (3-5Lv).
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events 15
Ticket offices
National Palace of Culture D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel.
916 63 69. QOpen 8:00 – 19:00
Orange music store B-3, Orange Center, 2nd floor,
ul. Graf Ignatiev 18, tel. 985 41 41, orangemusic@
netbg.com. Qopen 9:00 – 21:00
Ticketstream B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 50, tel. 981 38
59, www.ticketstream.bg. QOpen: 9:30 – 18:00
Odeon C-1, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 1, tel. +359 2 989 24
69. Showing old movies and nothing else, this is a great
place to sit back and enjoy a big-screen nostalgia-fest. Q
(4-6 Lv).
National Musical Theatre (Stefan Makedonski)
B-5, ul. Panayot Volov 2, tel. +359 2 944 50 85, op-
eretta@otel.net, www.musictheatre.bg. The National
Musical Theatre is an institution of ballet, musicals and
operetta which is now more than 60 years old. There are
300 people: singers, musicians, dancers, directors, painters
and technical staff, who work day and night to amuse your
eyes and ears. They give 20 performances each week and
about 150 thousand people are happy to enjoy them each
year. The dancing and singing group makes annual tours in
Bulgaria and Europe.
www.inyourpocket.com
July - September 2009
16 Culture & Events
Hot DJs on the beach - Sunny Beach
Summertime Dance Explosion Solar 09 The most famous trance DJ will explode the whole of Sunny
The row of parties will start on 25th of July with main guest Beach and even Nessebar with his magic music. DJ Tiesto
Pete Tong on Cacao Beach. The Bulgarian DJs Juan Alvarez succeeded in changing the notion of the house and Trans
and Liubo Ursini will heat up the fans. music. He is the only DJ in the world, chosen 3 times for “The
Best DJ on Earth” by the prestigious “DJ Magazine”. He is
also the first DJ to play live on a ceremony for opening of
the Olympic Games (Athens 2004) and was nominated for a
Grammy award for his album “Elements of Life” in 2008.
08.08 Victor Calderone, Cacao Beach, Sunny beach
25.07 Pete Tong, Cacao Beach, Sunny Beach The New York house legend Victor Calderone will be a guest
His incredible feel for hit sound made him the favourite on the festival for a second time. As a producer and DJ he
of thousands of fans around all continents. His shows on differentiates from his colleagues with his constant strive to
“BBC Radio 1” - “Essential Mix” and “Essential Selection”, go beyond the boundaries of the genre. He became a star
became legendary because of the production of his own after his hits “Give It Up”, “Beat Me Harder” and “Resonate”.
label - “FFRR Records”. His famous sets on international He will enchant you with his sexy style, inspired performance
festivals and the blowing parties in club Pacha in Ibisa, and sets which combine the old and the new in tribal and
where he lived for years, will always be remembered. minimal techno beats.
15.08 DJ Mark Knight and DJ Martijn Ten Velden,
31.07 Robbie Rivera, Bed-
room, Sunny Beach
Robbie will flood club Bed-
room with his electro house
sounds. He remixed some of
the hits of the world famous
ar tists as Fai thless, Ma-
donna, Kylie Minogue, Ricky
Martin, Santana, Pink and
others. The pick of his ca-
reer is the label Juicy Music
known by the productions of
high quality house, progres-
sive and electronic music.
His parties Juicy Miami and
Juicy Ibiza are a real magnet
to the fans of electronic music. Next to being a DJ and
producer Robbie made also 3 radio shows.
Cacao Beach, Sunny Beach
On the 15th of August will be the closing party of Summer-
time Dance Explosion Solar ’09 and the night is reserved for
2 stars – DJ Mark Knight and DJ Martijn Ten Velden. They are
unique as a team and repeatedly have brought the Bulgarian
public to ecstasy. The last time they have been in Bulgaria
was on New Year’s Eve in the Yalta Club. They arrive here as
the representatives of the leading world label for electronic
music Toolroom Records, established in 2004 from Mark
Knight. In 2008 the explosive carrier of Mark gets him to
the 42nd place in the Top 100 of DJ Mag. Their energizing
performance is a guarantee to get the party spirits going
and to be remembered till next summer.
02.08 DJ Tiesto, Cacao Beach, Sunny Beach
Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com
Bansko International Jazz Festival - 08.08-13.08.2009
Since its first edition in 1997, The Bulgarian ski resort of
Bansko hosts an International Jazz Festival branded “the
music of the free people”. Under the inspiration by Dr
Iliev’s idea to transform Bansko into a centre of significant
cultural importance, the festival is fulfilling its purpose year
after year..
The number of participants and quality of performances has
been steadily increasing and this year is no exception with a
line-up that includes the Janne Ersson Big Band. This year
the festival takes place from 8th - 13 of August.
MAIN STAGE - VAPCAROV SQUARE 10.8.2009
BANSKO (all concerts start at 7.30 p.m.) Vocal group JAZZEX (Ukraine)
Vasil Petrov & Mery Taneva and big band Blagoevgrad
– Bulgaria
8.8.2009
OTTO HEJNIC TRIO (Czech Republic, Slovakia)
8.08.2009
Besides being fine instrumentalists, the members of
the OTTO HEJNIC TRIO are also original, contemporary
composers. The trio plays its own inventive, imaginative
jazz.
The leading figure is Otto Hejnic – an exceptional
drummer.
The young virtuoso pianist, composer and musician is
Ondrej Krajnak. Stefan Bartus is one of the few “white”
jazz double bass players with a black style of playing, the
so-called black feeling.
CLARE TEAL and her band (UK)
8.08.2009
Clare Teal is a singer with an impressive voice, a composer
with her own signature and, last but not least – an amazing
person with a “crazy” sense of humour. Born in Yorkshire, UK,
she made her fist steps as a vocalist at the age of 15. Clare’s
new album Get Happy features both her own compositions
as well as cover versions. They include Love Hurts and Cheek
to Cheek, which she performs with an enviable feeling for
style. At the same time, she delivers an amazing modern
interpretation of classic jazz.
MACIEJ SIKALA TRIO (Poland)
9.08.2009
Maciej Sikala graduated the jazz department of the Music
Academy in Katowice in 1987.
Since 1998 has been playing in trio with Piotr Lemanczyk
and Tomasz Sowinski both his own compositions and jazz
standards. Piotr Lemanczyk – double bass, bass guitar,
composer, and arranger. Tomasz Sowinski – a graduate of
the Music Academy in Gdansk.
MARIO STANTCHEV TRIO (France)
9.8.2009
Pianist Mario Stantchev was born in Bulgaria, where he
was educated. Mario left Bulgaria three decades ago and
has since been living and working in France where he is
performing as well as teaching. He lectures at the jazz
department he founded at the National Conservatoire
in Lyon. At present, this is one of the most renowned
specialised educational establishments in Europe. Together
with his numerous friends and fans in Bulgaria, Mario will
mark two round anniversaries – his 60th birthday which he
celebrated last year and 30 years in France.
Keiko Borjeson and WomaJazz
9.8.2009
Keiko Borjeson began her career as a classical musician.
Born in Tokyo, aged only five she made her debut on National
Television with Beethoven’s “Fur Elise”. Kazuko Yasukawa
– one of the best-known Japanese pedagogues – was her
teacher for many years.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events 17
Last year, Keiko became a great friend of Bulgaria. During
the 11th Jazz Festival in Bansko, she presented music from
her last album Not Alone. This year the singer will perform
together with Woma Jazz – an attractive and successful
women’s jazz formation. Its members include Irene Robbins
– piano and vocal, Silvia Bolognesi – bass, and the dancer
Acai Arop Lombardi. At the heart of this project are the
temperamental Keiko and Irene – two ladies with strong
scenic presence and invention.
Kamelia Todorova – Bulgaria
10.08.2009
JAZZEX is a synonym of high professionalism, huge
experience in various music genres, an example of creative
collaboration, inspired by six artistic individualities. The
vocalists present the best of the past and present – world
famous hits and modern rhythms, Slavic folklore..... in fact – a
vast music universe. The groups’ debut album Bee JAZZEX
was released in December 2007.
JUDY LEWIS TRIO (Israel)
10.08.2009
Judy Lewis began her career as a jazz musician some 10
years ago – a difficult time in her personal life. Judy was
looking after her four children on her own, working a 40-hour
week and doing all she could to promote her own music. She
is now about to release her fifth, and has won the reputation
of a unique musician.
Judy started playing the piano at age seven, quickly realising
that this would be her vocation. She won a number of
music prizes already as a child. She enrolled in New York’s
prestigious Columbia University where she studied for two
years, but was strongly attracted to religion already as a
freshman. Gradually music took second place and Judy
moved to Jerusalem where she studied religion. Two years
later she married a student rabbi and had four children. For
about 10 years she was member of one of the most active
sects in Jerusalem. In 1995 she divorced, left the religious
society and returned to her true vocation. She completed her
musical education and toured with classical programmes for
three years. One day – for the first time in her life – she went
to a jazz concert and suddenly realised that that’s what she
had been looking for. Her experience as a classical musician
and her penchant for progressive rock shaped her individual
style as a jazz pianist.
Brother Hood – Switzerland
11.8.2009
FOUR BONES JAZZ COMBO (Hungary)
11.08.2009
FOUR BONES JAZZ appeared in 2002 as a quartet. With
their academic education, the four trombone players are
truly devoted to their music instruments.
They have had successful appearances at forums in
Hungary, as well as in Austria, Britain, Romania, China and
Germany. Four Bones Trombone Quartet boasts a varied
repertoire, which ranges from the early Renaissance to
contemporary music, through classical melodies, lively
rhythms and, of course, jazz. Occasionally the quartet is
joined by a rhythm section, and the formation is known as
the FOUR BONES JAZZ COMBO. In Bansko we will see the
combo, together with Zita Gereben.
CANDY DULFER and her band (Netherlands)
11.08.2009
Born in Amsterdam, she is the daughter of renowned jazz
saxophone player Hans Dulfer. Candy started playing the
saxophone aged seven, and at the age of 14 she already
July - September 2009
18 Culture & Events
had her own group - Funky Stuff. While still a teenager, Candy
recorded for international labels and at 20 she was already
touring the world. She started off playing soprano saxophone,
but later switched to alto saxophone, which is still her favourite
instrument. In America she gained popularity thanks to Prince.
The mega-star invited her to join his projects, rocketing her
to fame. She is still often called “Prince’s girl”, and she is still
his favourite sax player. Her music synthesizes rock and
beat, blues, pop and jazz. Her latest project is called Funked
up&Chilled Out. The blond diva will be playing Bansko after
three big concert tours – in Japan, Europe and the US.
Michaela Rabitsch & Robert Pawlik Quartet
12.08.2009
Michaela Rabitsch is the “female Chat Baker of our time” – this
is how the US Jazzscene magazine called her.
She graduated the Bruckner Conservatory in Linz, studying
jazz and trumpet with Peter Tuscher and Ingrid Jensen. Robert
Pawlik studied jazz guitar at the Conservatory in Vienna and
at the American Institute of Music with Les Wise and Karl
Ratzer.
Their latest album Moods appeared in 2008. In it Michaela
and Robert present ten original songs, inspired by their own
life. Melancholic or full of energy and optimism, the pieces
change their mood – just as in reality. This is the programme
the quartet will present in Bansko.
AXEL ZWINGENBERGER (Germany)
12.08.2009
Since the age of 19, pianist Axel Zwingenberger has been
travelling the world as a genuine ambassador of Boogie
Woogie. Born in 1955 in Hamburg, Germany he has played in
some 50 countries in Asia, Africa, America and across Europe.
He is currently the best Boogie Woogie pianist in the world. In
the early 1980s, the great Lionel Hampton invited him to join
him in a concert tour of Europe, as well as in recordings for
American companies. Axel has released 29 CDs. They include
recordings with greats such as Big Joe Turner, Jay McShann,
Champion Jack Dupree and Sippie Wallace, to name but a few.
He has eight solo albums.
MANHATTAN TRANSFER (USA)
12.08.2009
As soon as they appeared in 1969, Manhattan Transfer
marked a new trend in the vocal recreation of jazz. The US
group is named after one of the best known novels of John
Dos Passos, whose action takes place in New York. Published
in 1925, it recreates personal stories which happen in the
so-called “golden age” of jazz. The group that still turns its
concerts into a happening all over the world. The choice of
name was dictated by the common roots of the vocalists
Manhattan New York.
JAMIE DAVIS (USA)
13.08.2009
Jamie Davis is one of today’s greatest jazz vocalists. He has
sung with some of the world’s best known names in the
genre. Has worked with Patty Austin, Tony Bennett, George
Benson, the Count Basie Orchestra, Rosemary Clooney and
Billy Cobham.
Davis is called the “chocolate baritone” due to his fine deep
timbre. He has taken part in festivals and concerts both in the
USA as well as overseas. Most frequently he travels as lead
vocalist for the Count Basie Orchestra.
Jamie Davis’ latest disc is called Vibe Over Perfection. It was
released in 2008.
ROY POWELL PEAK EXPERIENCE TRIO (Norway)
13.8.2009
The Norwegian trio was set up by popular British pianist Roy
Powell. The musicians perform his original compositions, which
are a blend of rock, funk and fusion. The other members of the
group are Per Mathisen and Ivan Makedonov.
Roy Powell was born in the UK. He studied piano and
composition at the Royal Northern College of Music. Per
Sofia In Your Pocket
Mathisen studied at the renowned Berklee College of Music,
Boston, USA. Ivan Makedonov is a Bulgarian, born in 1975 in
Burgas. After graduating in classical piano and percussion, he
moved to Norway, where he has been living for 15 years now.
The group has had two successful tours in Bulgaria, playing
more than eight different towns.
Bansko during summer?
Yes! Bansko has much more to offer than ski and snow
boarding during the winter months. If you already know the
winter destination Bansko you may already know that Bansko
is situated amidst endless natural beauty. Still this is a hidden
part in what Bansko offers his guests.
Bansko’s natural surrounding is part of the Pirin National
Park. A park of such high importance that it is listed as World
Heritage national park encompassing the larger part of the
Pirin Mountain range. In this area of 274 km² are 2 nature
reserves Bayuvi Dupki and Yulen. The altitude varies between
the 1008 and 2914 meters.
Much of the area is forested, with the best conifer woods in
Bulgaria, holding important populations of the Balkan endemic
species Macedonian Pine, Bosnian Pine and Bulgarian Fir.
Animals include the Deer, the Capricorn, the Wolf and the
Brown Bear.
Restaurants
Dedo Pene C-2, ul. Aleksandar Buynov 1, tel. +359 749
88 348/+359 88 795 970, fax +359 749 82 223, info@
dedopene.com, www.dedopene.com. Dedo Pene has es-
tablished itself as a must-visit Bansko location over the years,
not least because of its enjoyably eccentric interior - antlers,
old radios, a startled-looking stuffed marten, and bits of wood
that resemble human sexual organs are just some of the dec-
orations to look out for. Pretty much everything in the local culi-
nary repertoire is available here - from kapama and chomlek to
the deliciously eccentric makedonski mandzhi (diced chicken
cooked with prunes). For dessert, try the banitsa (flaky pastry
pie) stuffed with bits of lokum (Turkish delight). The atmo-
sphere is always lively and the folk music frequently excellent,
ensuring that Dedo Pene is always worth a try. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. (8-25Lv). JAIEXS KDX hhh
Obetsanovata kashta C-2, pl. Vazrazhdane, tel. +359
749 82 236/+359 78 317 555, dimovidis@abv.bg. One
of the oldest mehanas in town with water feature in the dining
hall. There’s a lip-licking variety of grilled pork, veal and turkey
dishes on the menu, and a whole pig or lamb on a spit if you
order 24 hours in advance. They offer game like wild boar,
deer, and rabbit. Don’t miss out on the warm wine with blue-
berries. Party animals should be aware that Obetsanovata
kashta is one of the best places in town for shkembe chorba,
the spicy tripe soup used by locals as a hangover cure.
QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. (13-25Lv). JAIEBXSW
Hotels massage, shuttle to the lift, firewood delivery to the apart-
Pirin Lodge Gramadeto Area, tel. +359 749 95
031/+359 897 311 381, welcome@pirinlodge.com,
www.pirinlodge.com. A place where you will be warmly
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Bansko during summer?
Bansko during summer?
Yes! Bansko has much more
to offer than ski and snow
boarding during the winter
months. If you already know
the winter destination Bansko
you may already know that
Bansko is situated amidst
endless natural beauty. Still
this is a hidden part in what
Bansko offers his guests.
Bansko’s natural surrounding
is part of the Pirin National
Park. A park of such high
importance that it is listed as
World Heritage national park
encompassing the larger
part of the Pirin Mountain range. In this area of 274 km² are 2
nature reserves Bayuvi Dupki and Yulen. The altitude varies
between the 1008 and 2914 meters.
Much of the area is forested, with the best conifer woods in
Bulgaria, holding important populations of the Balkan endemic
species Macedonian Pine, Bosnian Pine and Bulgarian Fir.
Animals include the Deer, the Capricorn, the Wolf and the
Brown Bear.
The park has an amazing variety of plant, animal and fish
species on its territory, making it one of the most botanically,
zoologically and ontologically interesting areas on the Balkan
Peninsula. Whoever thought that Edelweiss only grows in the
Swiss Alps definitely should pay a visit.
Not less than 1300 plant species can be observed within
the park. Besides this, about 300 moss species and a large
amount of algae have been determined.
About 2090 fauna species and subspecies are to be seen in
the park, among them 300 rare species, 214 common and
175 relicts, as well as 15 that were included in international
endangered species lists. If fish has more your interest it is
worth knowing that the park hosts 6 fish species constituting
welcomed in the small community of people, originating from
different countries, and who own most of the apartments.
Thus each apartment carries the spirit of diverse cultures
and tastes and you will get the feeling of a country home. All
of the apartments have cosy marble fireplaces, real wooden
floors, one or two bedrooms and spacious living rooms with
sofas, dining table and kitchenette. There is a wellness
centre with a whirlpool, a sauna and a steam bath, a laundry
room with washers and dryers, children’s playground and
an outdoor lane for Bavarian curling in winter and French jeu
de boules /boccia in summer. Additional services include
ment, grocery shopping, use of swimming pool facilities
at nearby hotel and airport pick-up and drop-off. All-in-all a
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events 19
6% of the whole freshwater fish species of Bulgaria. For the
amphibian lovers we report 8 species and 11 species of
reptiles to be present within the protected area. Animal life
is not complete without also mentioning the birds, from the
tiny sparrow to the mighty eagle which can be spotted in this
unique area.
Bansko area has also a lot to show as for history, from simple
1-2 room house museums to culturally unique monasteries
like the world famous Rila monastery part of the Unesco
World Heritage list.
If mountaineering, mountain-biking, horse riding, Nordic
walking, or even hunting are amongst the activities you are in
to, the region around Bansko is all you need. The local Bansko
tourist agency will be happy to assist you in finding the right
guides for you. Horse riding for sure will be a high light of your
holiday were you will have the chance to see breathtaking
scenery in the Kresna gorge on a horseback.
What about romantic picnics to make you feel close to nature,
amidst the trees and wild mountain rivers. Up-route to the ski
tracks Bansko even has its own official picnic area, with tables
and barbeque facilities.
The Dancing Bears Rehabilitation Belitsa Park supported by
the Foundation Brigitte Bardot and the “Four Paws” Foundation
is one of the ‘must’ visits. Bears in Bulgaria do not dance any
more in captivity. Here in their own park they have their own
territory similar to their natural habitat. A charity well worth
your support. The last dancing bear has been brought to the
park in 2007.
Physical and mental relaxation that is what Bansko is
about during the summer months. Various hotels offer Spa
treatments, and each has its own speciality. Give yourself
the gift of being treated to your hearts delights. Bansko has
grown into an international community, for this reason you for
sure will find a kitchen to your taste, from traditional Bulgarian
to haute cuisine Greek style.
Bansko during summer is a guaranteed destination that will
provide you with an unforgettable experience.
great place to spend your winter or summer holidays. Mind
that there is a minimum required stay of 3 nights during
the season and a week in the off-season. Q50 rooms (50
apartments €38 - 90). TRILGBDXW hhhh
Elitsa ul. Gotse Delchev 12, tel. +359 749 88
391/+359 888 009 090, fax +359 749 95 026,
elitsainfo@abv.bg, www.hotel-elitsa.com. This hotel
July - September 2009
20 Culture & Events
is located in the direct proximity of both the town centre
and the Gondola, amongst numerous mehanas. Elitsa of-
fers a modern interior in rooms and public areas. For sure
a good value for money. Do consider to book the romantic
room with the Jacuzzi. The staff are friendly and speak
reasonable English. Open all-year so also recommended
for a summer visit. Q19 rooms (18 doubles €26 - 31, 1
Maisonette: €67). PJAILGBKDXW hhh
Chicho Cane ul. Knyaz Boris I 13, tel. +359 749 88
177/+359 898 n913 070, natal_mm@nail.bg. On walk-
ing distance from the centre of Bansko, where it all happens
during the day and especially during the après-ski hours, you’ll
find this traditional Bansko style family hotel. Within this small
hotel all luxury is at hand, including a traditional Bulgarian
restaurant (Mehana) with a barbeque area where you can
enjoy great moments feeling the traditional atmosphere
of Bansko. The all-year round hotel has a summer garden
attached to it with views to Pirin Mountain and the feeling
of the refreshing air. Sauna, steam bath and Jacuzzi are also
available. Rooms come with a nice interior and flat screen
TV’s.Q15 rooms (12 doubles €11, 3 apartments €41).
JALGBDXW hhh
Mountain Romance ul. Zahari Stoyanov 54, tel. +359
749 91 299/+359 885 992 333, mountain_romance@
mail.bg, www.hotel-mr.com. Located in the new part of
Bansko, this hotel makes a nice vacation place for winter or
summer holidays alike. The place is just 10 min away from
the Gondola and 15 min away from the historical part of the
city. They have studios and apartments with kitchenette,
twin or double beds, sofa, telephone and satellite TV. The
bathrooms are either with shower cabins or bath tubs. They
Sofia In Your Pocket
Culture & Events 21
have a small cosy tavern serving traditional Bansko dishes.
The cook, chicho Stancho (uncle Stancho), claims he cooks
by secret recipes and with special forest herbs. The best part
of this cosy hotel is the wellness centre. They have Jacuzzi, 2
steam rooms, sauna, relaxation area, hammam bed, beauty
salon and fitness and they offer all types of treatments and
procedures - from Talasso and aroma therapies, to chocolate
and anti-cellulite massages. They also have rooms service,
laundry and ironing and free shuttle to the Gondola. Q25
rooms (25 apartments €13 - 31). AR6IFGB
Premier Luxury Mountain Resort E-4, ul. Karaman-
itsa 11, Gramadeto area, tel. +359 2 490 22 07/+359
2 490 22 07, fax +359 2 490 22 04, reservation@pre-
miermountainresort.com, www.premiermountainresort.
com. With a lovely view to the surrounding mountains and
forests, this apart hotel offers a true 4 star experience with
grace. The hotel opened on May 1st, 2009 and is located
in the newly built part of Bansko about 15 min walking dis-
tance from the centre and the gondola. The apartments are
furnished elegantly and with imagination. There is a bedroom
with twin beds and a living room with sofa, dining table and a
kitchenette. The furniture is built to last rather than just look
good. The bathrooms are with shower cabins and some are
with bathtubs. They have a great wellness centre - Asana
Spa -with steam bath, sauna, relaxation area, massage and
aromatherapy. There is a bar, buffet and a-la-carte restaurant.
The Greek gourmet chef is the award-winner Yiannis Bakse-
vanis and he certainly deserves our applause. Ask for the lamb
chops and the strawberry mousse. The service is excellent
and personalized. We hope it will stay that way even when the
crowds hit the slopes this winter. For sure a hotel where you
can also spend your summer holidays and a great starting
point for early morning mountain walks. Q144 rooms (61
suites €50 - 80, 51 One room apartment: €80 - 95, 21 Two
room apartment: €100 - 115, 2 Maisonette with 1 bedroom:
€125, 6 Maisonette with 2 bedrooms: €165, 3 Maisonette
with 3 bedrooms: €235). PTHARUIFLGB�
KDXCW hhhh
sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009
22 Where to stay
Sofia’s accommodation scene has been transformed by
a rash of hotel building in recent years, and there is now
a big choice in all categories. The advertised star ratings
are reasonably accurate guide to quality in most cases,
although they don’t always mean that all the rooms in
particular establishment are up to the stated standard.
Hotels invariably list their prices in euros, although you can
pay the equivalent rate in leva if you wish.
Cream of the crop
Arena di Serdica B-3, ul. Budapeshta 2-4, MSerdika,
tel. +359 2 810 77 77/+359 2 810 77 88, fax +359
2 810 77 70, hotel@arenadiserdica.com, www.arena-
diserdica.com. This hotel really is one of a kind, imagine
going to breakfast walking in the footsteps of Roman gladi-
ators. That’s what you get at the Arena di Serdica. During
the initial excavation of the foundations, they discovered
a Roman amphitheatre. Not put off by this inconvenience,
they built the hotel around it. And they’ve done a wonderful
job. The excavations are huge and take up a large part of
the subterranean floor. It’s not unlike staying in a museum.
And, it’s a great place for expositions, launches and such as
it generates a truly cultured atmosphere. The rooms aren’t
bad either. They’re beautifully decorated in terracotta and
a deep yellow that reflects the incoming sunlight, giving the
rooms a fairly unique homely feel. They’re well sized even by
5 star standards and come with all the expected mod cons.
The Arena di Serdica offers all the usual fitness centre and
sauna stuff (not unexpected in a Roman ruin, I suppose), and
is excellently situated near the Alexander Nevski Cathedral.
They also boast a truly lovely restaurant on the top floor,
with superb cuisine and wines at a very good price. A bit of a
hidden gem amongst Sofian restaurants and well worth a visit
even if you’re not staying there. All in all, the Arena di Serdica
offers what very few hotels in the worl can offer; top notch
modern amenities in a classical setting. Really a class apart.
Q63 rooms (35 singles €150 - 230, 6 doubles €150 - 230,
14 suites €300, 1 apartment €420, 7 Junior suite: €280).
PJHARUFLGBKDXW hhhhh
Grand Hotel Sofia B-3, ul. Gurko 1, MSerdika, tel.
+359 2 811 08 11, fax +359 2 811 08 01, reservations@
grandhotelsofia.bg, www.grandhotelsofia.bg. Quality writ
large. It is bang in the middle of town - on the doorstep of the
National Theatre, the City Art Gallery, within walking distance
from the Bulgaria Concert Hall and the Alexander Nevsky
Cathedral. The staff are professional from top to bottom,
the rooms are huge, and the classy furnishings are built to
last rather than just look good. The spacious bathrooms
come with both bathtub and shower. The ground-floor Grand
Cafe, facing out towards the City Garden, serves up some
spectacular cakes. Q122 rooms (105 doubles €150 - 340, 3
suites €400 - 540, 12 Junior suite: €230 - 370, 2 Presidential
suite: €500 - 640). PTJHARUFLEGB�
KDXW hhhhh
Hilton D-2, bul. Bulgaria 1, tel. +359 2 933 50 00, fax
+359 2 933 51 11, reservations.sofia@hilton.com,
hilton.co.uk/sofia. Enduringly popular choice with visiting
businessfolk, with a handily central location and the attention-
to-detail service that you would expect from the chain. Rooms
come in a soothing combination of blues, yellows and greens,
and the generously-proportioned bathrooms feature both
shower cabin and bathtub (so you can wash yourself twice
at the same time!). Guests have free use of pool and gym,
and all rooms come with coffee and tea-making facilities.
There are a bar, exacutive floors and an executive VIP lounge,
washing and dry cleaning, 24/7 room service, shops, a beauty
saloon, a travel agency, souvenir and luxury goods shops and
Sofia In Your Pocket
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station
D Sauna C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi connection
a rent-a-car service.Q245 rooms (202 singles €110 - 190,
26 doubles €110 - 190, 16 Junior suite: €230 - 310, 1 Presi-
dential suite: €1200). PHAR6UFLGKDCW
hhhhh
Holiday Inn Sofia H-8, bul. Aleksandar Malinov 111,
tel. +359 2 807 07 07, fax +359 2 807 07 08, info@
holidayinnsofia.bg, www.holidayinnsofia.bg. Dependable
standards of 5-star comfort and service from an experienced
chain. Rooms feature flat-screen TVs, wireless internet and
bathrooms with separate bath and shower. Located next
to Business Park Sofia in Mladost it’s a popular choice for
business folk, and the centre of town is only a 20-minute taxi
ride away. International cuisine in the all-day Brasserie and
InCanto restaurant provide excuses to linger on-site, as do
the fully-equipped gym and 19-metre swimming pool. The
range of conference facilities on offer make this a choice venue
for hard-headed get-togethers. Breakfast and VAT tax is not
included.Q130 rooms (116 doubles €70 - 100, 4 suites
€120 - 150, 10 Executive rooms: €90 - 120). PHARU�
FLEGBKDXCSW hhhhh
Kempinski Hotel Zografski Sofia G-7, bul. Dzheims
Baucher 100, tel. +359 2 969 22 22, fax +359 2 969
22 23, reservations.zografski@kempinski.com, www.
kempinski-sofia.com. Five-star comforts can be taken for
granted here, although the hulking, high-rise nature of the
place will not suit those who want a cosy intimate retreat.
Rooms are currently decorated in onyx-blue and green,
although some floors are being gradually refitted in beige.
Now part of a German chain, the Zografski was originally built
by Japanese investors and designed by the famous architect
Kisho Kurokava in the 1980s, and you’ll still find a few uniquely
oriental touches here - notably the Japanese garden, one of a
kind on the Balkan peninsula. They have 10 conference halls
with a separate entrance, 5 restaurants, 3 bars and the larg-
est hotel swimming pool in Sofia.Q442 rooms (singles €160,
418 doubles €180, 5 triples €220, 20 Junior suite: €240, 1
Presidential suite: €950). PHAR6UFLEGB�
KDXCW hhhhh
Radisson SAS Grand Hotel B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie
4, tel. +359 2 933 43 34, fax +359 2 933 43 35, info.
sofia@radissonsas.com, www.sofia.radissonsas.com.
Occupying the prime site opposite Bulgaria’s parliament and
the Aleksandar Nevski Memorial Church, the Radisson offers
the kind of understated luxury that the chain is famous for:
soothing colours, deep-mattressed beds, classy marble-
floored bathrooms (featuring both bathtub and shower),
and electric kettles in every room. Standard rooms on the
south side of the building are perfectly adequate, but it’s the
business class doubles and junior suites on the north side
that come with fabulous views of Narodno sabranie square.
Notwithstanding the surrounding nightlife (both Flannnagans
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Pub and the London Casino are on the ground floor of the
same building), the hotel itself is nicely quiet. Q133 rooms
(singles €130 - 205, doubles €156 - 220, suites €260 - 290).
POHARUFLGKDW hhhhh
Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya
5, MSerdika, tel. +359 2 981 65 41, fax +359 2 980
64 64, sofia.reservations@luxurycollection.com, www.
luxurycollection.com/sofia. Sofia’s longest-established
luxury hotel, and part of the Sheraton chain for a decade and
a half, this urban landmark in the heart of downtown Sofia
combines traditional five-star frills with high-tech amenities.
The building itself is a showpiece of 1950s architectural
style, featuring sweeping staircases, long and spacious cor-
ridors, and chandeliers on every floor. “Classic” rooms are
contemporary in style with blue and orange decor and classy
bathrooms. “Executive” rooms boast near-antique furniture,
flat-screen TVs and coffee-and-tea-making facilities. Spacious
ground-floor lobby areas and a chic cafe-restaurant provide
the icing on the cake. Rates do not include breakfast and VAT
tax. Q184 rooms (164 doubles €330 - 425, 11 Junior suite:
€445 - 460, 8 Executive suite: €490 - 505, 1 Presidential
suite: €1210 - 1310). POJHAR6UFLG�
KDXW hhhhh
Upmarket
Anel B-2, bul. Todor Aleksandrov 14, tel. +359 2 911
99 00, fax +359 2 911 99 06, hotelanel@hotelanel.com,
www.hotelanel.com. If you want to stay in a top-class hotel,
which has more character than the international chains, then
this modern building on the fringes of downtown Sofia just
about fits the bill. It’s stuffed to the gills with contemporary
Bulgarian paintings and sculptures and has the feel of a top
international gallery when you first cross the threshold. The
rooms themselves come in bold blues and browns, and
there’s an exotic on-site Spa centre with a water-surrounded
café-bar approached by bridge. Q57 rooms (8 singles €270,
31 doubles €290 - 300, 1 Presidential Suite €1000, 6 Junior
Suite €320, 3 Panorama Suite €340, 8 Executive suite €370).
PTJHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Art ‘Otel C-2, ul. Gladston 44, tel. +359 2 980 60 00,
fax +359 2 981 19 09, office@artotel.biz, www.artotel.
biz. A joint Bulgarian-Spanish project occupying a re-vamped
1930s apartment block. Fine textures, unusual shapes,
leather furniture, fireplaces and a smattering of contemporary
paintings justify the hotel’s name. Just a block away from bul.
Vitosha, the location is as central as they come, and some
rooms on the upper storeys come with excellent roof-level
views of the surrounding cityscape. Q22 rooms (5 singles
€105 - 145, 10 doubles €110 - 150, 3 suites €155 - 160).
PHARLKDW hhhh
Best Western Hotel Europe H-9, ul. Liditse 1, tel.
+359 2 970 15 00, fax +359 2 970 15 11, info@hotel-
europe-bg.com, www.hotel-europe-bg.com. Contempo-
rary building in a suburban street offering rooms decorated
in cheerful citrus-fruit colours. Some have large bathrooms
with bathtubs, although you can’t always bank on getting
one of these. The top floor Sky Bar has fantastic views
west towards the city and south towards Mount Vitosha.
They have an outdoor swimming pool and Jacuzzi. Q119
rooms (40 singles €80, 40 doubles €100, 25 triples €110,
4 suites €140, 5 apartments €145, 3 Junior suite €125, 2
Presidential Suite €160). PTYHAR6UFLG�
BKDXCW hhhh
Best Western Hotel Expo G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose
149, tel. +359 2 817 81, fax +359 2 974 30 90, reserva-
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay 23
tions@hotelexposofia.com, www.hotelexposofia.com.
Not in the crowded center, but situated only 15 minutes from
it and 10 minutes from the airport, this art decorated hotel
offers cozy and luxury rooms and apartments. Its proximty
to Inter Expo and Congress Center makes it perfect for your
business trip. The hotel has two restaurants, a lobby bar,
casino with piano bar, sauna and fitness. From the large
windows you can enjoy the view to Vitosha mountain. Along
with the paintings on the walls and the stylish furniture
you have all the necessary “equipment” for your business
stay - “a signature room” made for signing contracts and
business meetings, wi-fi internet and 3 conference halls.
Q99 rooms (63 doubles €90 - 138, 5 suites €145 - 177,
27 Executive rooms: €110 - 163, 4 Junior suite: €165 - 197).
POHAR6FLEGBKDXW hhhh
Casa Boyana G-6, ul. Ivanitza Dantchev 23, Boyana,
tel. +359 2 805 08 00, fax +359 2 805 08 05, hotel@
casaboyana.com, www.casaboyana.com. A boutique-
style hotel in the mountain-side suburb of Boyana, close
to the National History Museum and with great city-facing
views from the windows of its restaurant. Rooms come with
Italian furniture, bold colours and swanky bathrooms, and
the attention-to-detail staff are as helpful as can be. Q16
rooms (7 singles €105, 7 doubles €125, 2 suites €165).
PHARUFLGBKDXW hhhh
Central B-2, bul. Hristo Botev 52, tel. +359 2 981 23
64/+359 888 507 209, fax +359 2 986 45 61, central@
central-hotel.com, www.central-hotel.com. A relatively
new hotel in a convenient downtown location, this is reason-
ably good value for the facilities on offer. Rooms are decorated
in modern, functional style; most have showers rather than
full-size bathtubs. They allow smaller size pets.Q28 rooms
(17 singles €95, 17 doubles €110, 17 triples €138, 3 suites
€120 - 175, 3 apartments €120 - 175). PYJHA6E�
GBKDXW hhh
Central Forum G-7, bul. Tsar Boris III 41, tel. +359 2
954 44 44/+359 888 506 102, fax +359 2 954 33 33,
central@central-hotel.com, www.central-hotel.com. Re-
cently renovated block in a part-residential, part-commercial
area about 1km southwest of the downtown action. The
rooms are not all that spacious but come in stress-reducing
creamy colours. Unusually for what claims to be a four star,
most rooms come with shower, so you’ll need to fork out for a
“luxury” room if you need to soak in a real bathtub. On the plus
side we were rather excited to see electric kettles in some
of the rooms - something of a first for Bulgaria. Smaller size
pets are allowed.Q51 rooms (12 singles €95, 12 doubles
€110, 12 triples €138, 6 suites €120 - 175, 6 apartments
€120 - 175). PYHAR6UFLEGBKDXW
hhhh
Central Park Hotel C-2, bul. Vitosha 106, tel. +359
2 805 81 81, fax +359 2 805 87 87, reservations@
centralparkhotel.bg, www.centralparkhotel.bg. This
newish 4-star hotel enjoys an enviable city-centre location
right in front of the National Palace of Culture and a stone’s
throw from the main shopping, eating and drinking areas. The
rooms are comfortable and well-equipped, most coming with
views of the nearby park and (in some cases) Mount Vitosha
in the distance. The restaurant does a good line in modern
European cuisine, complemented by a strong selection of
wines. A full range of business services and secretarial as-
sistance is offered by the business center. Q77 rooms (29
singles €165 - 205, 45 doubles €185, 3 suites €240 - 260).
PYJHARLGK hhhh
July - September 2009
24 Where to stay
Crystal Palace Boutique Hotel B-5, ul. Shipka 14, tel.
+359 2 948 94 88, fax +359 2 948 94 90, reservations@
crystalpalace-sofia.com, www.crystalpalace-sofia.com.
The Crystal Palace emerged somewhat controversially from
the conversion of a nineteenth-century apartment block,
which involved mounting a huge glass-and-steel superstruc-
ture on top of the historic building. Conservation issues aside,
it’s one of the best hotels in the city as far as service and
elegance are concerned, offering sunny, spacious rooms
with repro furniture and all the creature comforts. The
health-and-fitness club, moodily lit and decorated in coffee
and cinnamon shades, is the ideal place to wind down after
a hard day spent closing deals. Q63 rooms (53 doubles
€170 - 210, 10 suites €250 - 270). PHARFLEG�
BKDXW hhhh
Dedeman Sofia Princess F-7, bul. Maria Luiza 131,
tel. +359 2 933 88 88, fax +359 2 933 87 77, sofia@
dedeman.com, www.dedeman.com/Sofia.aspx. If you’re
the kind of person for whom size matters then the Princess
is probably your kind of place. It’s the biggest hotel in Sofia,
it also boasts the biggest casino in the Balkans - so it’s the
perfect place to throw your money away in lavish style. Rich
colours, tasseled curtains and fluffy cushions give the rooms
a satisfyingly luxuriant feel. Q 601 rooms (589 doubles
€85 - 125, 12 apartments €135 - 170). POHARU�
FLGKDXCW hhhh
Greenville Hotel & Apartment Houses G-7, ul. Ata-
nas Dukov 36, tel. +359 2 819 19 19, fax +359 2 819 19
18, hotel@greenville-sofia.com, www.greenville-sofia.
com. A 3-building complex set in leafy parkland south of
the centre, offering a mixture of standard rooms and studio
apartments. The rooms are light and luxurious, with flower
bouquets and oil paintings adding a homely touch. Q113
Hotel Arsena
Bulgaria, Nessebar,
South beach
tel. +359 554 46 610
+359 554 46 650
fa +359 554 46 550
Sofia In Your Pocket
rooms (singles €160 - 180, 96 doubles €180 - 200, 17
suites €240). PTHARUFLGBKDXCW
hhhh
Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel B-2, bul. Vitosha 21, tel.
+359 2 810 08 00, fax +359 2 810 08 01, reservation@
lesfleurshotel.com, www.lesfleurshotel.com. A style-
conscious boutique hotel in a prime downtown position, Les
Fleurs looks as if it has jumped straight from the pages of
an Italian interior design magazine. Artistic flair extends to
every detail, from the floral motifs inlaid into the hardwood
floorboards to the glass-bead table lamps, flat-screen TVs,
and swish bathrooms with cylindrical shower cubicles. Bal-
conied top floor rooms have great views of the city centre.
All rooms are irregularly shaped, and the corridors bend their
way across the building rather than leading directly from A
to B. The dodgy-looking black uniforms worn by the front-of-
house staff make up the only element of the hotel that doesn’t
quite fit. Q31 rooms (13 singles €145 - 170, 10 doubles
€155 - 180, 2 suites €270, 6 Executive).
. PJARUILGBKXW hhhh
Light A-3, ul. Veslets 37, tel. +359 2 917 90 90, fax
+359 2 917 90 10, sofiahotel@light.bg, www.hotels.
light.bg. Classy modern hotel in a quiet cobbled street that
seems miles away from the bustle of central Sofia. The public
areas are boldly contemporary but the rooms themselves
have a chintzy cosiness - note however that some come
with a shower cabinet while others have a nice big bathtub.
Q31 rooms (10 singles €90, 18 doubles €115, 2 suites
€140 - 150, 1 Presidential suite €180). PJHARU�
FLGKDXW hhh
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Maxi Park Hotel & Spa H-8, bul. Simeonovsko shose
110, tel. +359 2 892 00 00, fax +359 2 892 00 50,
reservations@maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com. If
you want to stay in the middle of a fully-equipped leisure
complex then you can’t go far wrong with the Olymp, plunked
in the middle of a landscaped park dotted with swimming
pools and gazebos. The rooms come in fresh colours and
brave modern shapes, and many of them have good views of
Mount Vitosha to the south. It’s a 15-minute drive to the city
centre from here, but with a restaurant decorated in the style
of a nineteenth-century Russian parlour, and a glass-roofed
cafe area stuffed with potted plants, there’s plenty to explore
on-site. Q62 rooms (singles €96, 52 doubles €126, 2 suites
€180 - 220, 8 Business: €126 - 156). POTHARU�
FLGBKDXCW hhhh
Park Hotel Vitosha H-8, ul. Rosario 1, MMusagenitsa,
tel. +359 2 816 88 88, fax +359 2 962 29 25, reserva-
tions@vitoshaparkhotel.com, www.vitoshaparkhotel.
com. Brand-new Scandinavian-style designer hotel full of
light colours and nice wooden surfaces. Rooms are fitted
with cooking facilities, and the on-site wellness amenities are
perfect if you’re in need of a bit of pampering. In park-like sur-
roundings on the southeastern edge of the city. Q170 rooms
(60 singles €89, 80 doubles €119, 24 suites €119 - 139, 6
Vip studios: €100). PHARFLGBKDXCW
hhhh
Residence Oborishte G-8, ul. Oborishte 63, tel.
+359 2 814 48 88, fax +359 2 846 82 44, contact@
residence-oborishte.com, www.residence-oborishte.
com. Supremely comfortable and relaxing establishment
made up almost entirely of two-room apartments, with warm
rich colours predominating throughout. The just-married
apartment with an inviting bathtub by the wide double bed
almost had us rushing to the registry office. An informal
make-yourself-at-home atmosphere adds to the welcoming
feel. Q9 rooms (doubles €80 - 180, suites €80 - 180, Junior
Suite: €80 - 180, King Suite: €80 - 180). PARIGB�
KXW hhhh
Sofia Plaza F-7, bul. Hristo Botev 154, tel. +359 2 813
79 79, fax +359 2 813 79 12, office@hotelsofiaplaza.
com, www.hotelsofiaplaza.com. It’s about time there
was a comfortable mid-price hotel in the vicinity of Sofia’s
main railway station, and Sofia Plaza seems to fit the bill. Its
50 rooms have been squeezed into what is essentially a tall
thin building, but the result is cosy rather than cramped. The
rooms themselves feature blue carpets, peachy furnishings
and fabrics, TV, minibar, and enough desk-space on which to
park the average laptop. Apartments come with kitchenettes
and extra fold-down beds. Q50 rooms (10 singles €80, 36
doubles €110, 2 apartments €200 - 250, 2 Studio: €130).
PHARFLGBKDXW hhhh
Sveta Sofia A-2, ul. Pirotska 18, tel. +359 2 983 50
33/+359 2 981 26 34, fax +359 2 983 17 23, market-
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay 25
ing@hotelsvetasofia.com, www.hotelsvetasofia.com. A
recently renovated nineteenth-century building on a charac-
terful, pedestrianized shopping street, this is as pleasant a
downtown location as you’ll find. The rooms are decorated in
bright blue and yellow, with light and comfortable bathrooms.
Note that regular doubles have showers, “luxury” rooms
come with proper bathtubs. Q76 rooms (30 singles €90, 30
doubles €100, 6 triples €120, 3 suites €160, 1 Presidential
Suite €250, 6 Junior Suite €110). PYJHAR6U�
FLEGKDW hhhh
Triada G-8, ul. Venera 5, tel. +359 2 970 67 67, fax +359
2 970 67 10, info@hoteltriada.com, www.hoteltriada.
com. Relatively new building offering big, light rooms deco-
rated in different nuances of blue. The top-floor sky bar has
excellent views of Sofia’s mountainous surroundings. The
hotel offers perfect conditions for business meetings and
seminars. The restaurant offers every thematic evenings with
live music.Q62 rooms (9 singles €65 - 99, 48 doubles €90
- 119, 5 apartments €100 - 150). PHARUFLEG�
BKDXW hhhh
Mid-range
Alexander Palace H-7, ul. Nartsis 1, Dragalevtsi, tel.
+359 2 967 11 84, fax +359 2 967 31 46, reservations@
svetasofia-alexanders.com, www.svetasofia-alexan-
ders.com. A small-sized modern building in the mountainside
suburb of Dragalevtsi, a 20-minute drive from the centre.
Rooms are spacious and the staff seem like a cheerful, helpful
bunch. If you want a relaxing, secluded out-of-town location,
then this fits the bill. Q18 rooms (doubles €26, apartments
€43, VIP apartment €72). PAFLKD hhh
Atlantic H-8, ul. 19 (devetnadeseta) 2, Simeonovo, tel.
+359 2 961 34 00/+359 2 961 34 01, fax +359 2 961
21 32, atlantic@mail.orbitel.bg, www.atlantic-bg.com.
Located in the relative seclusion of Simeonovo, a suburb on
the lower slopes of Mount Vitosha, this extremely plush place,
braced by a pair of fancy turrets, makes for an ideal out-of-
town retreat. Bathrooms are on the small side but rooms
are otherwise extremely cosy. The top-floor restaurant offers
great views towards the city. The apartments have Jacuzzi.
Q20 rooms (10 doubles €55 - 65, 4 triples €85, 4 suites
€82, 4 apartments €90 - 95, 2 Presidential Suite: €105).
PHARIFLGBKDXCW hhh
Casa Ferrari Bed and Breakfast C-1, ul. Lyulin Planina
16, tel. +359 898 43 67 00, fax +359 2 980 84 14, info@
casaferrari.com, www.casaferrari.com. This centrally
located small hotel is situated on a quiet street within walk-
ing distance of Sofia’s main tourist attractions. Decorated
with classic Italian furnishings, an atmosphere is produced
combining luxury with relaxed charm. In addition to the three
tastefully styled guest rooms, is a large, bright breakfast
room, an ideal place for getting the day off to a good start, or
reminiscing about your trip’s highlights. The married couple,
who serve as your hosts, are congenial and very helpful in
July - September 2009
26 Where to stay
planning the most effective way to see the sights in Sofia.
All-in-all, the Casa Ferrari is a very pleasant home away from
home. Q3 rooms (singles €60, doubles €85, triples €95).
PTJARGW hhh
Diter C-3, ul. Khan Asparuh 65, tel./fax +359 2 989 89
98, hotel@diterhotel.com, www.diterhotel.com. Located
in a sensitively-restored nineteenth-century house in a quiet
but superbly central street, this is a real find. Rooms come
in mood-enhancing blues and oranges and are equipped with
minibar, TV and safe. Generous provision of desk space is
a major plus, as is the provision of state-of-the-art mas-
sage nozzles in the shower cubicles. The T-shaped room
no. 302 (a single) will suit the idiosyncratic travellers down
to the ground. Q 21 rooms (7 singles €78, 12 doubles
€98, 2 suites €108). PHARLGBKX hhh
Lozenetz E-3, bul. Sveti Naum 23, tel. +359 2 965 44
44, fax +359 2 965 44 45, info@lozenetzhotel.com,
www.lozenetzhotel.com. A contemporary building in a
residential area just south of the city centre. Rooms are light
and spacious, although some of the bathrooms are a tight
squeeze. There is a small but relaxing garden attached to the
restaurant. Q31 rooms (13 singles €52, 14 doubles €62, 1
apartment €75, 3 Junior suite €75, Extra bed). PHAL�
GBKXW hhh
Latinka G-8, ul. Latinka 28A, tel. +359 2 870 08 48, fax
+359 2 870 08 56, office@hotel-latinka-sofia.com, www.
hotel-latinka-sofia.com. Sleek and modern outside, comfy
and charming within, this is an exceedingly good mid-range
choice indeed. About 3km southeast of the centre, it’s only
5 minutes’ walk away from the huge expanse of greenery that
is Borisova Gradina park. Rooms are decked out in mood-
enhancing primary colours and come with telephone, cable
TV, internet connection and mini-bar. Ask for one of the top-
floor rooms with attic ceiling if you want a bit of atmosphere.
Sofia In Your Pocket
Еlate Plaza Hotel
Mladost 1, Sofia
corner of Aleksander Malinov Blvd
& Andrey Sakharov Blvd
phone 974 4948, 0886 83 12 82
sales@elateplaza.com,
www.elateplaza.com
Elate Plaza
Elate Plaza H-8, Mladost-1, corner of bul. Aleksan-
dar Malinov and bul. Andrey Saharov, MMladost
1, tel. +359 2 974 49 48, sales@elateplaza.com,
www.elateplaza.com. Five minutes drive south from
the airport in a residential neighbourhood this is a small-
ish comfy and charming hotel. Rooms come in different
shapes and sizes, contemporary in style, decorated in
wine-red, with light bathrooms. Suites have bathtubs.
An informal make-yourself-at-home atmosphere and
attentive staff complete the picture. The fitness centre
is an additional plus. Q19 rooms (5 singles €45 - 65,
7 doubles €55 - 75, 3 triples €70 - 90, 1 suite €90 -
100, 1 apartment €85 - 130, 1 Junior suite €80 - 90, 1
Q26 rooms (10 singles €50 - 55, 15 doubles €70 - 75, 1
apartment €80). PALGKW hhh
Legends G-7, bul. Cherni vrah 54-56, tel. +359 2 961
79 30, fax +359 2 961 79 33, info@hotel-legends.bg,
www.hotel-legends.bg. Situated in the Hladilnika district
4km south of the centre, Legends offers all the business-class
comforts but has the added advantages of medum-sized-
hotel intimacy and medium-range prices. The bronzy-brown
rooms come with desk space and bath-tubs. An internet
connection for your laptop costs an extra €5 per day. De-
spite the neighbourhood’s relative lack of decent bars and
restaurants, transport links are good: trams no. 9 and no.
10 will whisk you into town, while bus no. 66 powers its way
up to Aleko on Mt Vitosha. Q49 rooms (3 singles €64 - 74,
40 doubles €76 - 86, 2 apartments €94 - 104, 4 Apartment
houses €104 - 114). PALK hhh
Meg Lozenetz D-3, ul. Krum Popov 84, tel. +359 2
965 19 70, fax +359 2 965 19 71, reservation@meg-
lozenetz.com, www.meg-lozenetz.com. Inviting mid-sized
hotel in residential streets just south of the centre, near the
City Center Sofia shopping mall. The deep carpeted rooms
are decorated in warm colours and come with a lot of desk
space. They also come in irregular shapes, which makes a
nice change from the perfect rectangles on offer elsewhere.
The hotel restaurant looks semi-tropical with its rattan chairs,
wooden decking and house-plants - appropriately enough,
it is home to an enormous green parrot. Q17 rooms (4
singles €75 - 90, 4 doubles €85 - 100, 4 triples €95 - 110, 4
suites €95 - 110, 1 apartment €135 - 150). PYAR6�
UGKW hhh
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Renaissance B-2, pl. Vazrazhdane 2, tel. +359 2 986
09 38, fax +359 2 986 09 39, reservations@hotelre-
naissance-bg.com, www.hotelrenaissance-bg.com. If
you don’t mind a bit of kitsch you’ll quite like this place, with
its loud colours, copper engravings of renaissance paintings
and retro furniture. Panoramic view of Sofia from the top-floor
terrace. Q29 rooms (14 singles €55, 14 doubles €65, 1
apartment €90). PHAGKW hhh
Budget
Brod H-8, bul. Simeonovsko shose 66, tel. +359 2 968
19 80, fax +359 2 968 19 84, hotelbrod@yahoo.com,
www.hotelbrod.com. A suburban hotel of recent construc-
tion offering excellent value in this price range. All rooms are
neatly kitted out in a mixture of pastel and terracotta shades
- “luxury” rooms have good-sized bathtubs, while others come
with a simple shower unit. Simeonovsko shose itself is hardly
Sofia’s most inspiring street, but you’ll feel quite at home here
once the friendly and helpful staff have told you where the
local cafés, shops and bus-stops are. And taxis to/from here
aren’t going to break the bank. Q46 rooms (13 singles €40
- 50, 24 doubles €48 - 60, 5 suites €56 - 70, 4 apartments
€64 - 80). PHALGBKXW hhh
Harmony E-1, bul. Arsenalski 4, tel. +359 2 866 53
77, fax +359 2 866 25 37, sofia@hotels-harmony.com,
www.hotels-harmony.com. You won’t be drowned in luxury
here but you’ll certainly find everything necessary for a pleas-
ant and restful stay, and the small scale of the place makes
you feel looked after. It’s right next door to one of Sofia’s most
popular indoor and outdoor swimming pools, which you can
use free of charge the first time, after which a small entrance
fee comes into operation. Q16 rooms (singles €42, doubles
€63, apartments €76). PHALK hhh
Madrid G-8, ul. Dragovitsa 12, tel. +359 2 944 89 52,
fax +359 2 943 31 44, hotel@madridbg.com, www.
madridbg.com. Intimate hotel in a quiet area just east of
the city centre, offering simply furnished en-suite rooms and
little in the way of extras. Difficult to beat at this price. Q15
rooms (2 singles €20, 10 doubles €28, 2 triples €33, 1 quad
€40). PJAW h
Niky C-2, ul. Neofit Rilski 16, tel. +359 2 952 30 58,
fax +359 2 951 60 91, office@hotel-niky.com, www.
hotel-niky.com. This superbly located and friendly place has
a lot of admirers, so be sure to book in advance. The handful
of single and double rooms come with modern furnishings,
minibar, TV and WC/shower. However the majority of rooms
are roomy apartment-style affairs featuring kitchenette and
bathtub. The garden restaurant, famed for its grills, comes
into its own in spring and summer. Q23 rooms (3 singles
€40 - 45, 3 doubles €45 - 50, 16 apartments €60 - 105, 1
double luxury €50 - 55). PARUGKW hhh
Pop Bogomil A-4, ul. Pop Bogomil 5, tel. +359 2 983
11 65, fax +359 2 983 70 65, hotelpopbogomil@dir.
bg, www.bulgariabedandbreakfast.com. Welcoming and
intimate place in an area of cobbled residential streets a
few minutes’ walk from the city centre. Rooms are on the
small side and feature mix-and-match furnishings that might
not quite make it into the pages of a design magazine, but
everything else about this hotel seems tidy and comfy. Some
rooms have bathtubs, some have showers, so ask in advance
if you’ve got a preference. Breakfast costs a few leva extra.
Q10 rooms (doubles €30 - 33). LW hhh
Red Bed and Breakfast C-4, ul. Lyuben Karavelov 15,
tel./fax +359 2 988 81 88, info@redbandb.com, www.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay 27
redbandb.com. An early twentieth-century villa houses the
Red House cultural centre as well as this charming B&B. The
rooms come in a variety of different styles: some feature
soothingly pale decor while others are kitted out in sensu-
ous reds and greens. Toilet and bathroom are located in the
hallway, but you do get breakfast delivered to your room.
The top-floor terrace is a great place to hang out when the
weather gets warmer. Q6 rooms (singles €25 - 35, doubles
€40 - 50). RKW hh
RotasaR G-8, ul. Liditse and Kosta Lulchev (at the
corner), tel. +359 2 971 45 71, fax +359 2 971 45 74,
hotel@rotasar.com, www.rotasar.com. Smallish hotel with
a cosy feel, in a residential neighbourhood 2km east of the
centre on the way to Sofia airport. Rooms come in different
sizes and colour schemes but are all equipped with a small
TV, minibar and bathroom. Colourful contemporary prints in
the rooms and hallways add a bit of character. Breakfast in
the downstairs restaurant costs an extra €3. Q17 rooms
(8 doubles €37 - 44, 6 apartments €57 - 67, 3 Studio: €51).
PARGKXW hh
Shipka G-7, bul. Totleben 34A, tel. +359 2 915 14 87,
fax +359 2 953 12 30, shipka_hotel@abv.bg, www.
hotel-shipka.com. Twenty minutes’ walk southwest of the
centre, this Defence Ministry-owned establishment is a bit
care-worn and institutionalised at first glance, but it’s far from
being a boot camp. Rooms are adequate and come with TV,
fridge and WC/shower: those in the ‘lux’ category have the
added benefits of plush carpets and jolly colour schemes.
The fab subterranean fitness complex looks like a training
centre for special agents: saunas, steam baths, gym, well-
ness treatments and hairdresser’s saloon. Q134 rooms
(126 doubles €34 - 50, 6 apartments €61, 2 Apartment VIP:
€93). PJHR6UFLBKDXW hhh
Sofia Garden Bed and Breakfast C-3, ul. Angel
Kanchev 21A, tel. +359 2 987 05 45/+359 888 378
930, art-hostel@art-hostel.com, www.art-hostel.com.
Located in the same centrally-located nineteenth-century
building as the ever-popular Art Hostel (see “Hostels” below),
Sofia Garden offers simply-furnished but characterful rooms
with wooden floorboards, distressed chairs and wardrobes,
and high ceilings. Toilet and shower are across the hallway.
There’s a communal hall with homely ceramic stove, and a
small kitchen complete with kettle and toaster. Room price
includes breakfast. Q6 rooms (4 doubles €26 - 36, 2 quads
€14). TJHAR6GBKXW h
Out of town
SPA Hotel Bankya Palace bul. Varna 70, Bankya,
tel. +359 2 812 20 20, fax +359 2 997 70 64, hotel@
bankyapalace.com, www.bankyapalace.com. The
Bankya Palace was renovated in 2005 and some parts
of it are really state-of-the-art. Rooms are not too spa-
cious, but are light and decorated in fresh colours. Most
bathrooms are with bathtubs. The on-site Spa centre of-
fers a large number of superb remedial, recuperation and
relaxation programs (including aromatherapy, chocolate
or honey massage, wine-therapy and thalasso-therapy).
The complex has its own bowling hall and a big outdoor
swimming pool with mineral water. Q72 rooms (19
singles €42 - 53, 41 doubles €53 - 69, 12 apartments
€84 - 111). PHARUFLGBKDXCW
hhhh
July - September 2009
28 Where to stay
Apartment hotels
Apartment House Iztok G-8, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel.
+359 2 970 01 00, fax +359 2 970 01 28, aphouse_iz-
tok@yahoo.com, www.apartmenthouseiztok.bg. Fully
serviced apartment block on the southeastern fringes of
the centre. The smallest studio apartments are no different
to a mid-price hotel room, but providing you steer clear of
these you should have no complaints. Expect lam floors,
warm colours, and modern bathrooms with tubs. Break-
fast is brought to your room, and there’s a strip of garden
complete with kids’ play area out the back. Q32 rooms (4
singles €110, 4 doubles €120, 5 apartments €190, 8 Busi-
ness studios: €135, 6 Family apartments €150, 5 Big family
apartments €170). Rates fall in proportion to length of stay.
PTARLKW hhh
Apartment House Dunav A-4, ul. Dunav 38, tel. +359
2 983 30 02, fax +359 2 983 38 04, reception@dunava-
partmenthouse.com, www.dunavapartmenthouse.com.
A range of delightfully light and spacious apartments with
parquet floors, neutral colours, kitchenette, TV and WC/
shower. The 2-bed family apartments on the top floor come
with attractive attic windows. Breakfast can be delivered
from the nearby Tabiet restaurant, if you’re too lazy to cook
your own. Handily located in a downtown area characterized
by quiet cobbled streets. Q14 rooms (14 apartments €58
- 88). Rates fall dramatically the longer you stay. PTAR
hhh
Apartment House Sofia G-7, ul. Golo bardo 2-4, tel.
+359 2 960 28 88, fax +359 2 960 28 60, info@aphouse-
sofia.com, www.aphouse-sofia.com. Tidy new block in a
residential area just south of the centre, offering comfy apart-
ments ranging in size from 2-person studios to 2-bedroom
family flats. All have laminated floors, pastel-coloured furnish-
ings, TV, kitchenette, and bathrooms with full-sized tubs.
Apartments are serviced daily. If you don’t fancy self-catering,
you can eat very well at the Carrera restaurant on the ground
floor. Q (28 apartments €120 - 180). Long-stay rates are
substantially cheaper. PTARLK
Apartment rental
City Hotels Ltd. C-5, bul. Evlogi Georgiev 85, tel. +359
888 509 199, office@rentinsofia.com, www.rentinsofia.
com. This firm have around 30 apartments at their disposal,
of varying sizes and at various locations around town. Judging
by the one we saw, furnishings are tasteful, colour schemes
are soothing, and kitchens and bathrooms are fully equipped
with modern gear. Apartments are serviced on a daily basis.
Q The prices range from €40 for one bedroom apts, to
€60-80 for a 3-bedroom family dwelling. Prices decrease
according to how long you stay.
Sofia In Your Pocket
Where to stay 29
Variety E-3, ul. Yoan Ekzarh 20, tel. +359 2 963 31 51, Orient Express Hostel C-2, ul. Hristo Belchev 8A fl.3, available at any time. Prices vary between the high and low
fax +359 2 866 15 57, office@variety-bg.com, www. tel. +359 888 384 828/+359 889 138 298, orientex- season, summer and winter accordingly. There are TVs all
variety-bg.com. Variety offer well over 20 properties in presshostel@yahoo.com, www.orientexpresshostel. over the place and a common room for gatherings. Check out
central Sofia and the inner-ring of suburban districts, with com. Right opposite a grocery shop open 24/7 and a few time is 11:30 and there is no problem to leave your luggage
short- or long-term apartments ranging in size from 2- to stories above one of the better bars in the city, Orient Express for the rest of the day.
4-bedroom. Interiors are neat and tasteful, some feature a Hostel has the perfect central location. The building it occu-
very high standard of interior design indeed. The apartments pies is from the 1920s with high ceilings and situated on a
are fully serviced and secure. Q Prices vary between €40 busy street with numerous cafes and restaurants. The rooms
and €70 depending on the size of the apartment, with dis- are decorated tastefully and have a modern luxurious look.
counts for long term stays. ALW Art hangs from the walls and big LCD screen TVs are available
with satellite channels. There is one spacious room with tall
Hostels dorm beds, two bigger double bedrooms and a small room
for two. The common room and kitchen are merged into one
Art-Hostel C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 21A, tel. +359 2 987 and smoking is allowed only in there. A list of activities ready
05 45, art-hostel@art-hostel.com, www.art-hostel.com. to be organized upon request from the visitors, is posted on
The original idea behind this little place was that it would the wall. It includes pub crawl, paintball, paragliding, horse
be a hostel-cum-art gallery where people could meet and riding and bow shooting. If you prefer the atmosphere and
exchange ideas. It doesn’t always live up to its cultural mis- prices most hostels offer, but you wouldn’t mind a notch of
sion but it’s quirky, friendly and central all the same. There luxury, this is your place Q (singles 20 - 25BGN, doubles
are two dormitories equipped with double-decker bunks, and 25 - 30BGN, Dorm bed 8 - 10BGN). PJNW Sofia Guesthouse C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 27,
a communal sitting room with soft furnishings and occasional tel. +359 2 403 01 00/+359 884 001 056, info@
exhibitions. The weirdly decorated downstairs cafe-bar is Red Star Hostel C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 6, fl.3, tel. sofiaguest.com, www.sofiaguest.com. Spacious and
reason enough to stay. Price includes a modest breakfast +359 889 138 298/+359 888 384 828, redstarhostel@ relaxing hostel with fresh-smelling, air-conditioned dorms,
(served at a nearby cafe-restaurant, not on the premises). yahoo.com. In the very heart of Sofia downtown this hostel a healthy number of toilets and showers on each floor, and
Q Dorm bed €11. JAR6GBKW h will meet your every basic need and it is be affordable. The a big sitting-room-cum-socializing area near the reception
rooms are neat and spacious decorated in warm pastel desk. Plus there’s a basement breakfast room and TV
Be My Guest C-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 13, tel. +359 2 989 colours. The staff are there 24 hours a day ready to assist room. Use of internet terminal and washing machine for a
50 92, bemyguest@mail.bg, www.bemyguest-hostel. you in whatever you need. There are four rooms with capacity small extra fee. Breakfast included. Q €10-18 per person.
com. Centrally-placed hostel with a rambling collection to host up to 18 people. There are no double rooms but you PJAR6GBXW
of rooms and a cosy if cramped living room. The dorms could rent a whole room as a couple. Breakfast is included in
and doubles are functional in the extreme but funky ethno the price and served between 9 and 11 in the morning with
furnishings will make you feel at home. The 5-bed split-level the kitchen available to use at your whim. Laundry service
apartment, decorated with kooky paintings, is well worth costs 2.50 euro per load. There is no Wi-Fi, just a PC with
getting hold of if you’re travelling as a family or with friends. Internet, which is docked in one of the bedrooms and unless
A basic breakfast is included. Q €10 -12-15-20 per bed. the rest of the guests don’t mind the keyboard clatter it is
PJARLGBW
Hostel Mostel B-2, bul. Makedonia 2A, tel. +359 889
223 296, info@hostelmostel.com, www.hostelmostel.
com. Lurking behind an unlikely-looking metal doorway,
Hostel Mostel is one of Sofia’s hidden treasures, occupying a
reconstructed nineteenth-century inn which plonked surreally
in a city-centre courtyard. The simple, mattress-on-the-floor
accommodation is neat and clean: individual dorms can be
booked as private rooms by twosomes or threesomes for a
few extra euro during the low season. The spacious ground-
floor social area, including pool table, internet terminal,
kitchen, and oriental, cushion-strewn divan, is a major feature.
Q €10-15 per person. JRGBW
Hostel Sofia B-2, ul. Pozitano 16, tel. +359 2 989 85
82, hostelsofia@yahoo.com. Sofia’s first-ever backpacker-
friendly hostel is still going strong, with two floors of pine-
floored, bunk-filled dorms (ranging in size from 12-bed to
4-bed) in a central apartment block. It still has the feel of a
cosy private flat, with teddy-bear wallpaper in some of the
dorms, lounge furniture stuffed into the hallway, and a small
but fully-equipped kitchen. Breakfast included. Q €10 per
person. PJR6ILGBKXW
Internet Hostel B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, 2nd floor, tel.
+359 889 138 298, fax +359 2 989 94 19, interhostel@
yahoo.co.uk. A place that always seems to be full of nice
and friendly young travellers. Clean and tidy rooms ranging
in size from a single to a six-bed dorm. It’s a bit difficult to
find at first: enter the shopping arcade at Alabin 50, look for
the plain white door on your left, then head up the stairs. Q
From €9-10 per person - dorm room, €25-30 double room,
€30-35 for studio, €35-40 triple room. R
sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009
30 Restaurants
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino M Nearest station
R Internet 6 Animal friendly
New restaurants are opening all the time in Sofia, but
there aren’t enough good chefs to go round and standards
tend to yo-yo as a result. Service is traditionally on the
slow side, but things are picking up in this department.
The prices in brackets refer to the average cost of a main
course.
Armenian
Egur, Egur B-4, ul. Dobrudzha 10, tel. +359 2 989
33 83, egur@abv.bg. Armenian food, superbly prepared
and presented with old-school elegance, in a restaurant,
owned by Bulgarian-Armenian jazz singer Hilda Kazasyan.
No-holds-barred carnivores should plump for the Cauca-
sian flame-grilled kebabs, although there’s plenty by way
of subtly-spiced stews and loads of vegetarian options
involving aubergines, peppers, courgettes and other tasty
fresh things. There’s an extensive list of both Bulgarian
and international wines, expensive vintage tipples included.
Q O p e n 1 2 : 0 0 - 2 4 : 0 0 . ( 2 0 - 3 0 Lv ) . P J A
Bulgarian so be sure to reserve at weekends, especially in the garden.
Etno B-3, ul. Alabin 35, tel. +359 2 988 75 75, etnoe-
gur@abv.bg. Spread out in a large basement in the heart of
the downtown shopping area, this is a rather elegant take on
a familiar down-on-the-farm rustic theme. Starched napkins
and fancy cutlery adorn the tables, while garlic and corn
cobs hang on rough whitewashed walls in the background.
The menu aims to provide down-to-earth home cooking
from around Europe (I’m sure we saw a Wiener Schnitzel in
here somewhere), although the accent is on Bulgarian meat
favourites - it’s a nice change to see Bulgarian grill-snacks
given the serious cuisine treatment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(10-35Lv). PJAGXSW
Hadzhidraganovite Kashti F-7, ul. Kozloduy 75, tel.
+359 2 931 31 48, info@kashtite.com, www.kashtite.
com. Hugely enjoyable theme restaurant located mid-way
between the town centre and the train station, consisting
of four large rooms, each designed in the folk style of a
particular region of Bulgaria. Traditional musicians drift from
room to room during the course of the evening, ensuring
that no-one misses the show. The lengthy menu covers just
about everything in the Bulgarian culinary repertoire, and
the list of rakias will have you scratching your head wonder-
ing which to try next. QOpen 11:30 - 02:00. (10-15Lv).
PA6UIEBS
Halbite C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 72, tel. +359 2 980 41 47,
mvivanova@yahoo.com. One of central Sofia’s most endur-
ingly popular beer hall-cum-eateries, with a predominantly
Bulgarian menu - but without the kitsch touches you get in
some of the more self-consciously touristy places. Expect
instead a relaxing jumble of rough-and-ready wooden tables
Sofia In Your Pocket
restaurant Vratata
and chairs, a generous choice of domestic and international
beers, and rock or blues on the sound system. Very popular,
There’s another branch at C-1, bul. Praga 18. QOpen 10:00
- 24:00. (5-15Lv). PJNGBXS
Manastirska Magernitsa C-3, ul. Khan Asparuh 67,
tel. +359 2 980 38 83/+359 899 94 94 00, www.
magernitsa.com.. Sheltered in an elegantly decorated
nineteenth-century house, the restaurant offers an imagi-
native approach towards traditional Bulgarian cuisine - the
owners have collected traditional recipes from Bulgarian
monasteries and reproduced here. Although the menu is so
long that it takes an eternity to decide what to eat, it features
a lot of things you won’t find elsewhere and has plenty of
choice for vegetarians. Service can be slow, but you won’t
find many finer settings for a long leisurely meal. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00. (12-18Lv). PJABX
Pod Lipite D-5, ul. Elin Pelin 1, tel. +359 2 866 50 53,
www.podlipitebg.com. One of Sofia’s longest-established
and most enjoyable traditional restaurants, with a suite of
rooms done out in the style of a timber-beamed small-town
tavern. The menu is extensive and doesn’t really have any
weak points - the succulent shashlik-style skewer-grilled
kebabs constitute one particular treat. Vegetarians can as-
semble a handsome feast from the courgette-, aubergine- and
pepper-based dishes listed as starters. Service is brisk and
enthusiastic, and live folk music is a feature at weekends.
The place gets packed out even at lunchtimes, so it’s wise
to reserve in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (8-20Lv).
PILNGBXSW
Pri Yafata B-2, ul. Solunska 28, tel. +359 2 980 17 27,
pri_yafata.solunska28@abv.bg, www.pri-yafata.com.
Traditional Bulgarian cuisine served up in a suite of rooms
sofia.inyourpocket.com
decked out in folk textiles and nineteenth-century domestic
nick-nacks. It’s an excellent place in which to sample the
standard Bulgarian repertoire of grilled meats, backed up
by an array of healthy salads and some superb spicy bob
(baked beans Balkan-style). Some of the cheaper wines
are a bit rough though. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (6-12Lv).
PAEBSW
Tchergata B-5, ul. Shipka 34, tel. +359 2 944 77 77,
fax +359 2 944 00 44, office@tchergata.bg, www.
tchergata.bg. This restaurant, located just several metres
from Sofia University, skillfully combines its modern interior
with folklore elements. The place is both cosy and spa-
cious; it seats 200 people inside and 150 people in the
summer garden. The menu is available both in English and
in Bulgarian and the traditional Bulgarian meals, served in
a very original way, prevail. A piece of advice: try the salad
called Tchergata, served in a bread cup (7.50Lv), as well
as some of the lamb specialties and the meals from the
Rhodope Mountains. Relax on the cool terrace and enjoy
a glass of full-flavoured high-quality wine while your food
is being prepared on the barbecue with charcoal. Cheers!
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (8-20Lv). PJAILGB
French
L’Etranger A-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 78, tel. +359 2 983 14
17/+359 887 523 376, bistrot_letranger@hotmail.com.
Homely bistro offering very reasonable food - good place for
a quick lunch or a more leisurely three-course meal. The chef
is a Frenchman who owns the place together with his Bulgar-
ian wife, so it’s a real family restaurant. Good service and
meals that live up to expectations. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00,
18:00-22:00, Sat 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (14-22Lv). PA
Czech
Cheshki Club B-5, ul. Krakra 15, tel. +359 2 944 13
83, restaurant@csklub.bg, www.csklub.bg. With its
plain wood furnishings, plain tablecloths and busy waiters,
the Czech Club is one of those reassuringly old-fashioned
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants 31
places, that seems to occupy its own bubble in space and
time - Ruritania in the 1950s being the most likely coordi-
nates. The prices are stuck in the 1950s too - you can eat
handsomely here for the price of a salad in some other Sofia
restaurants. The menu is vaguely central European padded
out with Bulgarian grills. For something authentically Czech
order the goulash or pork served with knedliky - fantastically
filling sliced dumplings. The well-kept Staropramen beer is
another reason to make the trip. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. (6-10Lv). JGBSW
Fun
Happy Bar & Grill B-3, ul. Golo Bardo 4, tel. +359 888
18 10 68, carrera@happy.bg, www.happy.bg. If you’re the
kind of person who likes bright neon lights, laminated menues
and electric guitars on the walls, then this is most emphatically
the place for you. Expect to dine on grilled chicken and pork
dishes, followed by an array of excellent sweets. The large
choice of alcoholic substances ensures that this is a popular
venue in which to spin out an evening. It’s a huge place that’s
constantly busy, so be prepared to squeeze in wherever the
wait-staff can find you a place.Home delivery : www.hapni.bg
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (6-12Lv). PJAGBSW
Greek
Kumbare B-3, ul. Saborna 14, tel. +359 2 981 17
94/+359 897 806 390, kumbare@abv.bg, www.kum-
bare.com. Pretty much everything you would expect from
a Greek restaurant is here in abundance, with a succulent
repertoire of grilled lamb and fish dishes accompanied by
luxuriant salads - all prepared under the watchful eye of the
head chef. The loud and exuberant music will soon put you
in the right mood to dive into the selection of ouzos and
retsinas. Chandeliers, flowers, and Ionian columns create a
winning Mediterranean ambience, an impression enhanced
by the sharp-looking team of young men in starched white
shirts that make up the wait-staff. Kumbare’s position on
central Sofia’s main tourist route ensures a constant stream
of diners - so you’d better make a reservation. Oh, and just in
case you were wondering, “Kumbare” means “best man”, and
is also the name of a traditional Greek dessert prepared from
cake fingers, mascarpone and nuts. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(7-34Lv). PJABXSW
Chinese
Devette Drakona B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 8A, tel.
+359 2 981 88 78. Ignore the gaudy signs advertising the
“Gentlemen’s Club” on the ground floor of the building and
head upstairs to find one of Sofia’s better oriental eateries.
The excellent, if familiar repertoire of pork, beef and duck
dishes has never disappointed, and the décor’s quite nice
too: soothing shades of Burgundy prevail, and apart from
a pair of enormous vases each big enough to house a fair-
sized panda, there’s a reassuring absence of far-eastern
kitsch. The no-smoking corner is relatively well secluded.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (4-12Lv). PJNGXSW
Kitayski Drakon (Chinese Dragon) B-2, ul. Ivailo 19,
tel. +359 899 006 061/+359 2 953 07 60, vel@vel-bg.
com, www.vel-bg.com. The food is of course Chinese and
they have lots of spicy dishes. The menu is impressive with
more than 200 dishes, most of which have the choice of small
or large portion. For delivery you can order by phone or online.
They have another restaurant on ul. Slavyanska Beseda 3.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:30. (4-10Lv). PNB
July - September 2009
32 Restaurants
Magnolia B-2, ul. Tri ushi 2, tel. +359 2 987 11 20.
Bare-topped tables and a minimum of décor provide a suitably
functional environment in which to feast upon cheap, filling
and well-prepared food. The menu sticks to tried-and-trusted
pork and chicken favourites - with the welcome addition of
some fiery Sechuan dishes you won’t find elsewhere in town.
Last time we were here the staff were playing a sequence
of pounding techno tracks that seemed to be on a perma-
nent loop - if this was intended as a digestional aid it was
certainly a new one on us. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (6-12Lv).
PNGXS
Indian
Kohinoor C-2, ul. Khan Asparuh 3, tel. +359 2 53 25
41, info@kohinoor.bg, www.kohinoor.bg. 1st street off
Hristo Botev at the Five Corners lies the Kohinoor. And, like
its namesake it’s a real diamond. The menu is as predictable
as most Indian menus and the food is great. Huge portions
too. Nice spacious downstairs restaurant with great space
between the tables and an excellent bathroom. The bathroom
alone is worth a visit. The food is brilliant. Service comes with
a real smile. And, with a bill that is actually a pleasure to pay,
all in all it’s worth a visit. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. Closed Sat,
Sun. (8-15Lv). PJAGBXSW
Taj Mahal B-4, ul. 11-i avgust 11, tel. +359 2 987 36
32, tajmahal.bg@gmail.com, www.tajmahal.bg. Very
good tikka masalas, rogan joshes and other familiar dishes in
a relaxing three-storey location. There are plenty of vegetarian
options, great samosas, decent naan bread and other au-
thentic extras. Although the soothing orangey interior doesn’t
go overboard with theatrical touches, the same cannot be
said for the background music, with sitar versions of rock
classics looping through the meal. Most expats agree that the
food and service are some of the best in town, although the
bill can be a little difficult to swallow.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Mon 18:00 - 24:00. (15-18Lv). PABSW
International
Am-Gul C-5, ul. San Stefano 3, tel. +359 2 943 44 16,
am_gal_star@abv.bg, www.am-gul.com. An old house in
the center of Sofia, converted into a restaurant. Actually, the
place is separated into two parts in different buildings. One
of them is covered with a partly glass ceiling, a fountain in
the middle of the room and a big barbecue. The other part
is the second floor of a house, separated into three rooms
with no doors between them - you feel like you’re at a private
party, but sitting on different tables. There are two fireplaces
and retro style interior. The menu is rich with pizzas, salads
and barbecued dishes. Portions are really big and tasty. So,
enjoy your wine! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (5.00-16.00Lv).
IGXSW
Butchers C-5, ul. Sheynovo 4A, tel. +359 887 104
378. This place does indeed look like a butchers’ shop
at first glance, with a bloke in an apron standing behind
a counter stocked with Spanish hams, Mediterranean
delicatessen goodies and fine wines. Behind the counter a
private-looking passageway leads through to a back room
filled with distressed furniture and bohemian-looking wine-
quaffing patrons. The menu is composed of whatever the
chef feels like cooking that day: expect gourmet cold meats,
exquisite quiches, and other Franco-Hispanic treats. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. (5-12Lv).
Comercial C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 27, tel. +359 897
931 291/+359 899 845 085, emivitanova@gmail.com,
www.bistrocomercial.com. Modern European cuisine in a
Sofia In Your Pocket
Restaurants 33
modern European setting: think whitewashed walls, moody some more mystique to the atmosphere. The Music Hall has
Decoding the menu lighting, minimal furnishings and comfy cushioned benches. an elegant white grand piano. They organize karaoke every
Starters and salads The fresh pasta is very good, but main courses are a bit Tuesday, Wednesday is Lady’s night, Thursday, Friday and
Shopska salata ( шопска салата) Baked peppers, more hit-and-miss - let’s just say that the duck with orange Saturday’s guests are entertained by the Magnito’s Band,
cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and white cheese. sauce will get to your taste buds more quickly than their not- and various guest musicians play here on Sunday. QOpen
Snezhanka (снежанка) Yogurt, chopped quite-there-yet attempt at British-style fish and chips. Oh, 10:00 - 04:00. Admission: 8Lv. PAEGBW
cucumbers and garlic. and portions are on the small side too. However service is
Katak (катък) Strained yogurt, mied with excellent and the location on trendy Shishman street means Maraia Bar & Diner D-4, Corner of bul. Bulgaria and
white cheese. Sometimes you can find it with baked that it’s the perfect place for a bite to eat after shopping for ul. Hristo Smirnenski, tel. +359 882 333 555, info@
peppers, garlic and oil in it. frocks - or before hitting the downtown bars. QOpen 11:30 barmaraia.com, www.barmaraia.com. Elegant and stylish
Zelena salata (зелена салата) Fresh green - 23:30. (10-15Lv). PJA6GXSW restaurant in the city centre. Whether you prefer this place
salad, fresh onions and olives. for your morning coffee or evening drink, you will be satisfied
Cookies Bar & Dinner cafe pl. Slaveykov, tel. +359
Ovcharska salata (овчарска салата)
tomatoes, onions, mushrooms, ham, peppers, eggs
Cucumbers,
2 488 17 22. A stylish place, where you can have either
by both the service and the things that they served. Pastel
tones predominate in the interior, which is entirely of natural
and cheese. lunch (they offer daily lunch menu) or just drink a cup of cof- materials - leather and wood. The bar looks like ship keel
Redena salata (редена салата) Sliced tomatoes, fee. It is a French-style place, with small tables for two and which comes to reinforce the sense of exotic deck of a yacht,
cucumbers and a piece of white cheese. 3 comfortable bars. The café is airy enough; the staff are a designed by the owners. Stylish pictures, pleasant and quiet
Soups little bit bored, but beautiful. There’s a large choice of dishes, music, supplemented the relaxing atmosphere. The menu
Bob chorba (боб чорба) Beans, different good Mediterranean meals, soups, salads and, of course, includes salads, soups, vegetarian dishes, and fresh fish.
kinds of vegetables and typical Bulgarian herbs. cakes and cookies for dessert. You can just sit here, listen- Maraia has its own pastry shop. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Shkembe chorba ( шкем бе чорба) Tripe soup, ing to Italian music and observe the crowds and the trams (10-30Lv). PAULGBXW
boiled with milk and served with garlic, vinegar and outside, without hearing them - the place is situated at the
grounded chilly pepper. corner of a very busy area - just in front of Slaveykov square. Marmo food & wine H-8, Mladost-2, bl. 218A, tel.
Supa Topcheta (супа топчета) Small meatballs, QOpen 09:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 00:00. (8-10Lv). +359 2 490 40 40/+359 888 276 276, info@marmo.
boiled with vegetables and herbs. PJAGX bg, www.marmo.bg. You can hardly find this place among
Tarator (таратор) Cold soup made of the concrete jungle of Mladost 2 district. Therefore, carefully
cucumbers, walnuts, oil and yogurt. Divaka C-3, ul. Gladston 54, tel. +359 2 989 95 43. follow signs that will direct you to the restaurant. When you are
Zelenchukova supa (зеленчукова супа) Vegetable The “Savage” is extremely popular among younger locals there, however, you will feel enchanted by the elegance and
soup for its relaxed informal atmosphere and good, inexpensive tranquility. The interior is stylish in beige and dark chocolate
Pileshka supa (пилешка супа) Chicken soup food. There’s a big choice of huge salads, the grilled pork brown. Quiet music, unobtrusive presence on the staff. Tables
Supa Leshta (супа леща) Lentils, herbs and chicken dishes are dependably delicious, and even the rotate with comfortable booths, spectacular vases, and wood
and vegetables. vegetarian shish-kebab is surprisingly tasty. There are other paneling adding interior comfort. The menu includes dishes
Meat dishes branches at C-3 ul. Hristo Belchev 16 (a bright, minimalis- from the Greek, Italian, Indian cuisine, seafood and barbecue.
Shishche (шишче) Small pieces of chicken tically-decorated place that looks like a smart canteen for They offer special seasonal spring menu, and every Thursday
or pork meat, peppers and onions, lined up on a skewer yuppies); and at C-3, ul. 6-ti septemvri 41A. QOpen 10:00 sushi. We are waiting eagerly to try the delicious meals in the
and grilled. - 23:30. (7-12Lv). PJNBX new summer garden. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (8.50-23Lv).
Pileshki drobcheta (пил PTAULGBXSW
ешки дробчета) Chicken liver, fired with onions Elate Plaza H-8, Mladost-1, corner of bul. Aleksandar
Parzhola (пържола) Steak Malinov and bul. Andrey Saharov, tel. +359 2 974 49 48, Mediterraneo B-5, ul. Oborishte 9B, tel. +359 2 944 95
www.elateplaza.com. Glass-fronted bar & diner, stylishly 82. Hidden in the courtyard, in what looks like a cosy garden
Kyufte (кюфте)
in it. Can be grilled or fried.
Flat meat balls with onions
designed in white and dark red colours, with comfortable shed, is this very suave and comfortable eatery specializing
Kebapche (кебапче) Grilled oblong meat modern furniture. Alongside the traditional Bulgarian special- in southern European cuisine. There’s a generous choice of
Gyuvech (гювеч) Vegetables, herbs and ties, the restaurant offers a huge international menu of salads pastas, veal-cutlet dishes and fish on the menu, backed up
pieces of meat, baked in an earthenware dish. and starters, well-prepared steaks and chicken dishes. The by an attractive range of desserts. Also, it’s one of the rare
Gyuveche : (гювече) Small earthenware service is helpful and friendly. It’s a superb place for a relaxed restaurants in Sofia where they automatically put a bottle of
dishes, filled with onions, tomatoes, cheese, sausages drink in the evening with its wide range of wines and spirits. real olive oil on the table. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (7-25Lv).
and an egg. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. (8-25Lv). PALBW PJAEGBXSW
Vegetarian dishes
Yaytsa po panagyurski (яйца по панагюрски) Eggs, Checkpoint Charly C-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 12, tel. +359 Seasons D-2, Hilton, bul. Bulgaria 1, tel. +359 2 933
sauced with yogurt, garlic and a little fried red pepper. 2 988 03 70, check_charly@abv.bg. With pictures of 50 62. As you’d expect from an expensive restaurant in an
Sirene po shopski (сирене по шопски) White cold-war Berlin on the walls, and copies of Rabotnichesko international hotel chain, standards here are consistently high.
cheese, baked with tomatoes in a small pot. delo (Bulgaria’s communist-era daily newspaper) used as The modern European cuisine is as well prepared as they
Kashkaval pane (кашкавал пане) Yellow cheese place-mats, you’d be forgiven for thinking that this was just come, the service is flawless, and the setting strikes the right
fried in eggs and bread-crumbs another ironic post-communist theme bar. It’s actually a great balance between comfort and elegance. On Sundays they
Chushki byurek (чушки бюрек) Peppers, filled restaurant, offering superbly prepared chicken, duck and have brunch from 12:00-15:30 with life music and children’s
with eggs and cheese steak dishes, and some delicious vegetarian concoctions indoor playground (50Lv/person).QOpen 06:30 - 23:30.
Zadusheni kartofi (задушени картофи) Potatoes, on the starter menu. There’s live jazz at the weekends, and (20-30Lv). PTJAULGXSW
stewed with butter and served with garlic and dill few diners leave here disappointed. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30.
Mekitsi (мекици) Fried pieces of dough, (15-25Lv). PJAGXSW Trikrakoto Pile B-2, ul. Denkouglu 3, tel. +359 2 986
usually served with jam or white cheese 26 53/+359 884 587 418, trikrakotopile@mail.bg. Situ-
Banitsa (баница) Baked pastry, filled Magnito Bar & Dinner B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 17, ated on a quiet street, not far from the bustle of bul. Vitosha,
with miture of white cheese and eggs tel. +359 888 144 777, www.magnitobar.com. Magnito this tightly packed suite of rooms with no-nonsense wooden
Mish mash (миш-маш) Mied and fried peppers, is located in the central city area and for an year already is furniture is a relaxing and informal venue for lunch or dinner
tomatoes, onions, eggs and white cheese among the most visited places in Sofia. Upstairs salon is a with friends. The name means ‘three-legged chicken’ which
Desserts place where you can try different specialties, originally made explains the strong presence of chicken dishes on the menu.
Kiselo mlyako s orehi I med (кисело мляко с орехи и sushi menu and enjoy the rich wine list. So called Dinning Q O p e n 1 1 : 3 0 - 2 3 : 0 0 . C l o s e d S u n . ( 8 - 2 0 Lv ) .
мед) Yogurt, sauced with honey and cracked walnuts. room is entirely in white and black leather furniture with an PJALW
Krem Karamel (крем карамел) Milk and elegant bar. In the underground part is where the Music Hall
eggs, baked over a caramel in small cups. is located. The main colors here are gold and black. The light- Troyantsite B-5, ul. Shipka 46, tel. +359 2 944 19 34,
ing is moody, each table has a small candleholder, which give sabin_rankov@abv.bg, www.troyancite.com. Relaxing
sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009
34 Restaurants
restaurant on two storeys with soothing décor and eager-to-
please staff. An international menu of steaks, grilled chicken
and freshwater fish dishes is augmented by a well-chosen
selection of Bulgarian specialities - the dzholan (leg of beef
baked in a pot) and grilled buffalo meat balls are hard to fault.
Vegetarians should opt for the zapekanka (tasty cheese and
spinach bake). QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (6-12Lv).
PJAGBXSW
Vishnite D-4, ul. Hristo Smirnenski 45, tel. +359 2 963
49 84/+359 899 866 730, vishnite@hotmail.com. This
tiny, four-table restaurant, located in a residential area just
south of the centre, is a firm favourite with Bulgarians who
know a thing or two about food, so it’s wise to book before
heading out. Expect flawless service, elegantly-laid tables
piled with classy cutlery and glassware, and a small but well-
chosen menu of modern European dishes, prepared with flair
and imagination. Sat. and Sun. you can book the restaurant
for private events. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
(15-22Lv). PA
Vratata (The Door) D-3, ul. Kokiche 13, tel. +359
889 235 866/+359 2 866 90 05, vratata@restaurant-
vratata.com, www.restaurant-vratata.com. The restau-
rant is situated in a 100-year old house. Very elegant, cozy
and stylish place where, as the owners say, “East meets
West”. Varied cuisine such as game dishes, different kinds
of European, Greek and Turkish meals and a number of
sophisticated salads and desserts. The wine list is rich with
Argentinean, Italian, Spanish and Bulgarian wines. The staff
are polite, without being slavish. An interesting and intimate
detail is the key. Each client puts their key for The Door over
the fireplace. There are different keys, varied from big and
old to small and ordinary. The atmosphere reproduces the
aristocratic, bohemian face of old Sofia. Among the clients of
the restaurant is His Majesty Simeon Saks - Koburg -Gotha,
of the Bulgarian royal family. This is a place, where you can
find elegance, personal treatment and good cuisine.Bring this
issue of Sofia In Your Pocket with you and you will get 10%
discount, especially for our readers.” Sled tova si ostava iz-
rechenieto “For sure you will be back.For sure you will be back.
Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (12-30Lv). PA6UIG�
BXSW
Zhadnata Lamya D-3, ul. 13-ti mart 2, tel. +359 2
964 06 40. The name means “Thirsty Dragon”, which we
took as an immediate invitation to down several flagons of
the excellent Czech Starobrno beer which is served on tap
here. The food is a mixture of Bulgarian and central European
meat dishes, but the real pleasure of dining here comes from
the friendly service and homely décor (note the fabulously
eccentric picture gallery lining the walls), all of which adds to a
highly enjoyable atmosphere. The fairy-tail atmosphere in the
garden with all the lights inside the green bushesh and trees is
worth to feel.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (6-24Lv). PNB
Sofia In Your Pocket
Italian
Gioia B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 60, tel. +359 2 986 08 54,
festaitaliana@abv.bg, www.festaitaliana-bg.com. It is
the perfect place to enjoy Italian cuisine with ingredients
imported directly from Italy and desserts, prepared on the
spot. It has a decade of serving clients, behind their backs.
They have both a Bulgarian and Italian menus and the staff
speaks English, Bulgarian and Italian. It seems the owner
is quite concerned if his clients are satisfied by food and
service. The restaurant has 60 seats and is calm, with a
friendly atmosphere. The menu offers fresh pasta, fish and
seafood specialties and the wine list ranges from 30 to 70
Lv. Gioia is definitely on the leading spot in Sofia, when think-
ing of Italian food. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. pasta (14-35Lv).
PAUGX
Japanese
Maraia Fusion Bar & Dinner B-4, ul. Rakovski 123,
tel. +359 2 980 62 60/+359 882 666 777, maraia_fu-
sion2@abv.bg, www.barmaraia.com. Brand-new sushi
restaurant in the downtown area just close to the Central
Military club and Alexandar Nevskij Memorial Church. Warm
feelings embrace you as you enter thanks to welcoming
smiles and cozy surroundings of wood and leather. Try the
sushi menu - Migiri Sushi and Sashimi set (14-23Lv) are hand-
somely presented and deliciously refreshing. We recommend
also to try one of the hot Japanese specialties (choose them
from the different menu they offer) or the Gunkam Sushi.
They also offer various fusion cuisine. Delicious prepared
pork and veal meat, lamb and freshfish, starters, pasta &
risotto are in the menu list.QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. (20-30Lv).
PAUGBXSW
Sakura G-7, Kempinski Hotel Zografski, bul. Dzheims
Bauchar 100, tel. +359 2 969 24 20. This rather charming
place is located in a pavilion in the garden of the Kempinski
hotel. It’s approached over a very picturesque bridge that you
might expect to see adorning a set of willow-pattern crockery.
Paper partitions, low tables (you can kneel on cushions or
sit on a stepped depression under the table) and nimble
waitresses swishing around in kimonos help to set the mood.
Assuming that you haven’t the time to fly to Tokyo and dine
out there, the impressive range of sushi and main courses
is authentic enough. A full meal with sake will set you back
a small fortune by Sofia standards, but for a great evening
out with a difference, it’s money well spent. QOpen 12:00 -
22:30. (15-30Lv). PALGBW
Sushi Bar B-2, ul. Denkouglu 18, tel. +359 2 981 84 42.
Conveniently situated just around the corner from the fashion-
able shops of bul. Vitosha, this smart but affordable oriental
eatery offers a lengthy menu of different types of sushi, all
excellently prepared and accompanied with portions of fresh
ginger and wasabe paste. Ordering a set menu will allow you
to sample a broad range of what they offer. Noodle soups
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Fast food
KFC B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 28, www.kfc.
bg. For delivery call 0700 11 999. Also at B-3 ul. Angel
Kanchev 2, B-3, bul. Dondukov 5. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJLB
McDonald’s Rock’n’Roll D-2, bul. Bulgaria 1,
next to NDK, tel. +359 884 000 305/+359 2 960
40 20, www.mcdonalds.bg. Restaurant with Juke
box, McDrive, found just next to NDK (National Palace of
Culture), under the Lover’s bridge. On the 14th of Feb they
organize 24 hour Rock’n’Roll marriage with McDonald’s
certificate, a Cadillac drive and surprise present. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. PTJAGBS
Mimas C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 68. Sofia’s first real
takeaway burger joint and still the best. It’s packed at
lunchtimes and remains the venue of choice for after-club
munchies. Burgers come with a wad of deliciously greasy
French fries stuffed inside. Doner kebabs and felafel fill
out the menu. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. JS
Trops Kashta C-4, ul. Gurko 38, www.tropshouse.
bg. If you want a crash course in Bulgarian cuisine
then this ever-reliable order-at-the-counter canteen will
have mass-catering versions of most Balkan dishes on
display. It may be lukewarm, but it’s cheap. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00. JG
Tsentralni Hali B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 28. Head to the
top floor of this covered market to find an array of counters
serving sandwiches, pizza slices, basic grills, and Chinese
noodles. There is no quicker and easier way of stuffing
your face. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PG
and teriyaki dishes also available. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00.
(3.50-37Lv). PAGSW
Lebanese
Tazka C-1, bul. Makedonia 48/+359 2 951 54 29,
mimishtereva@gmail.com. We took both a vegetarian and
a carnivore to this friendly restaurant and both came away
very happy indeed. The animal lover feasted on starters
like houmous, baba ganouj, a delicately spiced aubergine
and tomato salad, and fatayer (spinach pies), while her
companion’s bloodlust was more than satiated by the fat-
teh (chicken, chick peas and herbs covered in yoghurt). The
arak (an aniseed-flavoured spirit which turns cloudy when you
add water) went down very well indeed. Live music and belly
dancing pulls in the crowds at weekends, so be sure to book
ahead. Sundays are child-friendly..QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(18-20Lv). PNGW
Moroccan
Annette C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 27, tel. +359 2 980
40 98/+359 885 139 676, info@annette.bg, www.
annette.bg. A combination of North African music, flicker-
ing candlelight and star-shaped lanterns should lull you into
the perfect frame of mind to enjoy an authentic Moroccan
menu which takes in tajini, couscous and some lush healthy
salads. Finish off with Moroccan mint tea with cedar nuts, or a
lengthy puff on the narghile. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (8-18Lv).
PJAGBXSW
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants 35
Pizza
Victoria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 7, tel. +359 2 986
32 00, v.tzarosvoboditel@abv.bg, www.victoria.bg. This
is many people’s favourite pizzeria in Sofia, due to its gener-
ously proportioned pizzas and reasonably high standards
(the dough tastes sort-of Italian even if the toppings don’t).
Soups, pastas and grilled Bulgarian staples help to fill out
the menu. Tends to get crowded, and you might have to wait
for a table. Also at G-8 ul. Ivan Asen II 66. City-wide deliver-
ies on tel. +359 2 911 00 and tel. +359 (0) 887 911 000.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6-27Lv). PJAB
Russian
Gara za Dvama B-4, ul. Georgi Benkovski 18, tel. +359
2 989 76 75, garazadvama@abv.bg. The restaurant,
named after the cult Russian movie is designed as a train
wagon- four separated coupes with real old train seats. The
atmosphere is quite buzzing - loud merrymakers, drinking orig-
inal Russian and Ukraine vodka, eating typical Russian meals
and singing Russian songs in full voice. The place is small, so
you may need a reservation in advance. Staying in the small
wagon-like boxes will make you feel as on if you’re a long train
journey in good company. It is not very airy, but do you think
it will make any difference with all these vodka, music and
cheerful people around? Good spirits are the most important.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (15-25Lv). PXW
Moskva B-3, ul. Lege 2, tel. +359 2 980 24 24/+359
896 860 340, moskva_@abv.bg, www.moskva.bg. This
is the sort of place, which will make you feel totally decadent
almost as soon as you walk in to be welcomed by a crimson
carpet, cherry curtains, elegant staff and live music being
played on a grand piano with violin accompaniment. The
music, posh surroundings, first-class service, and excellent
food all combine to create an atmosphere that will transport
you back in time to imperial Tsarist Russia. You are only to
be reminded of the present by the latest bathroom technol-
ogy and a waiter, hinting the tip is not included in the bill.
Expensive, but not excessively so, and although some of
the wine costs far more than a main course your “nazdrave”
will produce a dull sound, definitely not the cling of crystal
glasses.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (20-40Lv).
PJAUEGXS
Ruski Klub E-3, ul. Lozenska planina 22, tel. +359
2 866 50 74/+359 888 626 994, dobripetrov@
yahoo.com. An unpretentious doorway on a quiet resi-
dential street leads through to this cosy little place where
you’ll be soothed by friendly service and lilting Russian
melodies. Embark on a round of vodkas, accompanied by
selyodka (marinated fish) before moving on to the gorgeous,
home-made pelmeni (meat-filled dumplings) or the Steak
a la Français. They have excellent range of homemade
sweets. Bring this issue of Sofia In Your Pocket with you
and you will get 5% discount, especially for our readers.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(8-30Lv). JAGBXS
Vagabond G-8, ul. Svetoslav Terter 5, tel. +359 2 944
14 65. This is one of those warm and intimate places where
you feel as if you are dining in someone’s living room, while a
family friend busies themselves in the kitchen. Sashed velvet
curtains and curious murals of balloons in flight provide added
atmosphere. The menu is European-meets-Bulgarian with a
healthy number of Russian favourites thrown in: a round of
vodka with marinated herrings on toast is the obligatory way
to kick off the evening. The pelmeni are excellent too. Recom-
mended main courses include Chicken Kiev and Moscow Cut-
July - September 2009
36 Restaurants
lets (cheese and ham wrapped in pork then breadcrumbed),
although there’s a lot more besides. Mains are served with
an optional variety of weird and wonderful sauces such as
a delicious green sauce flavoured with spinach and basil.
QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (8-26Lv). JING�
BXS
Seafood
Aegean C-5, ul. Sheynovo 18, tel. +359 899 798 879,
aegean_@mail.com, www.aegean-restaurant.com. The
name of this small, cosy and stylish restaurant is not chosen
by chance- all the fish and seafood are directly delivered from
the Greek Aegean sea . It is a real fish restaurant - they offer
fish dishes, seafood, some carefully chosen salads and diver-
sity of wines. The place is separated into 3 small venues, one
of which has a fireplace. The quiet Greek music, the Uzo and
the delicious fish dishes make it perfect for romantic or busi-
ness meetings. The beautiful garden, sheltered between the
old Sofia houses will be opened as soon as the spring comes.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (15-35Lv). PJAIGBXW
Captain Cook C-1, bul. Pencho Slaveykov 12-14, tel. +359
2 954 90 98/+359 882 999 001, www.captaincook.bg.
Fish dishes in Sofia’s mainstream restaurants generally leave
a lot to be desired, so it’s nice to have specialist places like
Captain Cook’s around. It’s in a slightly out-of-the-way loca-
tion, but it is in the centre and the delicious range of grilled
and pan-fried fish - both fresh- and saltwater varities - should
make the trip worthwhile. Fish is priced by the 100g - so
don’t rush to order until you’ve inspected what’s available
in the chiller cabinet and asked a member of staff to plonk
it on the scales. Absolutely superb quality. During the warm
months you can enjoy yourself also in the beautiful garden
and why not take a dip in the open-air swimming pool next
door. Bring this issue of Sofia In Your Pocket with you and
you will get 5% discount, especially for our readers. Enjoy!
QOpen 12:00-23:00 (10-35Lv). PA6UGBXSW
Serbian own right. The stone clad interior is crammed with folksy
Pri Miro G-8, ul. Murphy 34, tel. +359 2 943 71
27/+359 889 512 964, zaretza@abv.bg, www.res-
taurantmiro.com. Both Serbia and Bulgaria share a similar
culinary repertoire of grilled meats - it’s just that the Serbians
do it with more style. The cevapcici (grilled meat rissoles)
and pleskavice (minced meat patties) on offer at Miro’s
are infinitely more succulent and spicy than anything you’ll
find in a traditional Bulgarian joint. Ajvar (a relish made from
aubergines and hot peppers) makes the ideal accompani-
ment, and there’s an irresistible range of fiery plum brandies
to wash it all down. Both service and atmosphere are classy,
and an extra personal touch is provided by chef and owner
Miro himself, who likes to circulate among diners to see
who is enjoying what. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-12Lv).
PLNGBXSW
Sofia In Your Pocket
Out of town
Boyansko Hanche H-6, pl. Sborishte, Boyana,
tel. +359 2 956 30 16. Situated in the heart of the
mountainside suburb of Boyana, not far from the historic
Boyana Church, Boyansko hanche is a long-standing fa-
vourite among visitors, not least because it’s one of the
handful of places in the capital where you can enjoy a rea-
sonably authentic programme of folk songs and dances.
Performances usually start at 9pm but not necessarily on
every night of the week - so phone beforehand if you’re
going specifically because of the music. The menu of
traditional Bulgarian fare with international-looking steaks
doesn’t pull too many surprises, but doesn’t inspire many
complaints either. Q Open 11:00 - 23:30. (5-10Lv).
PTRILENB
Dedo Matso G-6, terminal station of tram 5,
Knyazhevo. Situated at the foot of Vitosha Mountain in
Knyazhevo district this place will really surprise you - from
the outside it looks like a colourful caravan and you can
never imagine what you’ll get once you are in - recipes,
collected from all over the world, nice music, a fireplace,
and it is only a part from the great atmosphere the owner
creates - she makes you feel at home with her approach
to the guests, sitting with them with a glass of wine in
sweet talks under the pine-trees outside the small venue.
The perfect place for escaping the hot and dusty city.
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. (4-6Lv). 6INBX
Lebed ul. Samokovsko shose 83, Pancharevo, tel.
+359 2 992 11 11, info@restaurantlebed.com,
www.restaurantlebed.com. Five kilometers south of
the Coral Swimming Complex, Lebed (“The Swan”) was
opened in 1961 as part of the preparations for that year’s
World Student Games, and has enjoyed near-legendary
status ever since. Once the place where Bulgaria’s top
pop stars used to entertain diners, it fell into decline
until recent refurbishments provided the old bird with
a new lease of culinary life. The menu (providing you
can negotiate your way through the spelling mistakes)
features a lot of seafood and freshwater fish, although
prices are on the steep side and staff are not noted for
their speed of service. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-40Lv).
PALGBXW
Vodenitzata Dragalevtsi (next to the chairlift),
tel. +359 2 967 10 58/+359 888 818 518, fax
+359 2 967 50 07, info@vodenizata.com. Housed
in an old mill near the Dragalevtsi chairlift, Vodenitsata
is one of those restaurants that’s a destination in its
ornamentation, and the cuisine consists of superbly
prepared and presented Bulgarian classics. The breezy
garden, complete with water features, turtles and fish, is a
great place to while away a hot summer afternoon. Every
night a folklore ensemble provides a thrilling repertoire
of traditional songs and dances, occasionally featuring
nestinari dancing on live coals - don’t try and join in no
matter how many rakiyas you’ve had. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. (10-20Lv). ALEB
Swiss
Chalet Suisse G-9, bul. Botevgradsko shose 50, tel.
+359 884 249 450, info@chaletsuisse.eu, www.
chaletsuisse.eu. A must visit place for all cheese lovers.
In case you are new to this kind of cuisine, no worries,
the friendly staff will help you out and maybe even the
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Wine, beer, rakia or boza…
what to drink in Bulgaria
Bulgaria has some typical drinks which can be found
only here, and some that have a similar (but not the
same) equivalent abroad. If you come to Bulgaria, we
recommend you to try some of these:
Alcoholic drinks:
• Bulgarian wine, which is exported to many European
countries. It is very tasty, with various sorts, some of
which are typical only for this region. We recommend
Mavrud (this sort of wine cannot be found anywhere
else) – a strong dark wine, suitable for red meat and cold
winter evenings. Despite the good quality, Bulgarian wine
is not expensive and is very appropriate for a present
from a holiday in Bulgaria.
• Bulgarian beer: many regions have their local beers,
most of them with a typical genuine taste, so we suggest
you choose from:
Blagoevgrad Pirinsko, Strumsko pivo
Burgas Burgasko pivo, Slavena
Lom Almus, Shopsko, Sofia
Mezdra Ledenika, MM, Varna, Haberman
Pleven Storgozia, Ataman, Pleven
Plovdiv Kamenitsa (Light, Extra, Dark, Red and
Soft), Astika
Shumen Shumensko
Sofia Kmetsko (Light, Wheat, Red, Dark)
Stara Zagora Zagorka, Ariana, Stolichno
Veliko Tarnovo Nashensko, Balkan, Bolyarka
• Rakia is often compared to brandy or tequila, but its
not like anything else. Usually most Bulgarians drink it
in the evening, before or during the meal, accompanied
by salad or pickles. It SHOULDN’T be drunk like tequila,
but slowly, sipping, with delight. Most common types
are grape and plum rakia. We recommend you also try
the fig and pear rakia, if you have the chance, which is
unusually aromatic.
• Almond liquer (which is slightly similar to amaretto,
but different). It is quite sweet and is recommended
unlimited consumption; however reasonable drinking is
extremely pleasant.
• Mastika (similar to ouzo and absinthe, but should be
drunk in a different manner: either with ayran or tarator
(see Bulgarian food section), or with mint liqueur (VERY
good cocktail for sea evenings, however very strong and
can be dangerous for inexperienced drinkers. Actually it
doesn’t give you a feeling that you’re getting drunk; you
just suddenly realize that this is a fact.) This drink contains
anise and has a sweet flavour.
Soft drinks:
• Boza (actually with Turkish origin, but the Bulgarians
drink it for so many years that it can be considered local).
It is prepared from fermented wheat or millet. Its colour is
beige and its taste is sweet-sour taste (some foreigners
find it quite peculiar).
• Bulgarian yogurt (this is different from any other yogurt;
people have tried to export the world famous lactobacillus
bulgaricus (named so because it was discovered in
Bulgaria); the result was a different taste.)
• Ayran (traditional local drink prepared from yogurt, salt,
water, sometimes pepper). This is a very refreshing drink
good both for heat and chill.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants 37
Swiss owners themselves. They offer traditional Swiss
cheese-fondue, Raclette, chocolate-fondue, Swiss salads,
Roesti and Bündnerfleisch, different steaks and more. The
restaurant indeed looks like a Chalet with wooden seating.
Once inside you will forget the surrounding neighbourhood
blocks. Not far from the centre, on the road to Varna. After
the Eko Petroleum gas station turn right, you can not miss it.
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. (8-25Lv.). X
Vegetarian
Back Home B-5, ul. Vrabcha 24, tel. +359 2 843 03
53, backhomebg@gmail.com, www.backhomebg.com.
If you think that the vegetarian cuisine is boring, the young
people who work here will change your mind. Everything we
tried was extremely tasty, made with imagination and care.
The menu is very rich and varied through humus, sweet sal-
ads, chick-peas dishes and quite a long list of the traditional
India drink Lassi - yogurt with whatever you can imagine in
it - quite refreshing and satisfying every taste. In a contrast
to other vegetarian restaurants they didn’t forget the smok-
ers and the wine and beer lovers - there is a smoking hall
and wonderful warmed up wine with black pepper, clove
and honey in it. Maybe you will need to be a little patient
until your order is ready, so enjoy the garden and the music
Q Open 12:00 - 23.30. (6-8lv). PT6ENGBX�
SW
Dream House B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, tel. +359 2 980 81
63, dreamhouse_bg@yahoo.com, www.dreamhouse-bg.
com. This bright and cheery first-floor restaurant is initially
a bit difficult to find: once you’ve entered the small shopping
mall at ul. Alabin 50 you need to pass through the white door
on your left and proceed up the murky stairwell. Dishes range
from a deliciously delicate bamboo soup to savoury spinach
balls, and tofu in various sauces. Flavours are on the bland side
- our biryani needed a jug-full of chilli sauce to help it go down.
On Sunday afternoons there’s an all-you-can-eat buffet for 7
leva.Home delivery for the area around the restaurant only.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (5-7Lv). PAGSW
Kibea C-3, ul. Dr. G. Valkovich 2A, tel. +359 2 980
30 67, restaurant@kibea.net, www.kibea.net. There’s
always at least one meat dish on the menu at this upmarket
healthfood restaurant, but its the exquisitely prepared
vegan and macrobiotic dishes that get top billing. The cool
minimalism of the interior provides the perfect environment
in which to focus on the classy concoctions which have
made head chef Elliot Prag something of a local celebrity.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (7-20Lv). PAG�
SW
July - September 2009

Cafes
Before & After C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 12, tel. +359 2
981 60 88/+359 889 966 689, beforeandafter@abv.bg,
ba.club-cabaret.net. With art-nouveau wall decorations, and
furniture that wouldn’t look out of place in nineteenth-century
Paris, this place is a world away from central Sofia. Expect
coffee strong enough to give an elephant heart palpitations,
luxuriant hot chocolate, and an appetizing range of salads and
snacks. The place is frequently taken over by tango lessons
in the evening, which helps explain the alluring photographs
of buttock-waggling dancers adorning the walls. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. (10 - 13Lv). PJAGXSW
Bulgaria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 4, tel. +359 2 988
53 07. Taking up most of the ground floor of the Grand Hotel
Bulgaria, this is a comfortable and rather stately place in which
to overdose on caffeine and sweets. Slightly more expensive
than average, but well worth bearing in mind if you’re plan-
ning a posh city-centre rendezvous. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
(12-18Lv). PTJNXSW
Coffee House B-4, ul. 6-i septemvri 1, tel. +359 2 986
66 12. Modern-style coffee-shop with a decent line in drink-in
or takeaway espressos, lattes, mochas and the rest. Mouth-
watering cakes and freshly-made sandwiches are superior
to the standardised fare on offer at some of Sofia’s other
high-street coffee shops. Vivid comic-book murals by graphic
artist Yasen Zgurovski give the Coffee House an absolutely
unique vibe. Also at H-8, Business Park Sofia. QOpen 07:30
- 20:00. PJNBW
Laguna (Vienski salon) C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 13, tel.
+359 2 980 30 01, laguna_bg@abv.bg, www.laguna-bg.
com. Welcoming two-tier café whose in-your-face kitsch
furnishings will leave you grasping for words fit to describe
them. Our editor compared this place to a mid-seventies Dr
Who set, but his glamorous assistant was too busy screaming
to take any notice. This is a great place to come and pig out
on pancakes and cakes they offer. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00.
(4-10Lv). PJNGXSW
Lavazza Club B-2, bul. Vitosha 13, tel. +359 2 987 34
33/+359 887 979 890, www.clublavazza.com. Situated
in downtown Sofia this place is already crowded since early
in the morning. Its two floors, charming garden and young
pretty waitresses, obviously make it a preferred location
by everybody from young couples to business people and
foreigners alike. The menu list offers a big selection of coffee,
cappuccino, cocktails, sandwiches and fresh pastries and
creams. Yummy. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. PABXW
Lucky (Vienska sladkarnitsa) C-5, bul. Tsar Os-
voboditel 21, tel. +359 2 943 33 44/+359 889 506
251. Bright, roomy and rather elegant café with a generous
choice of fancy cakes and other sinful goodies. Floor-to-ceiling
Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com
CafÉS 39
windows make this a good vantage point from which to ob-
serve the traffic pulsing across the Orlov bridge. Waitresses
dressed in fetching Bulgaro-Tyrolean dirndls help to complete
the picture. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00.
PJABSW
O’Nice B-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 18, tel. +359 2 980 02
32, chris@onice.bg, www.onice.bg. This place has a neat
atmosphere complemented by walls of fresh pastel colours
and modern-looking interior. The bagel sandwiches it special-
izes in are imported from Germany and the United Kingdom
and you can find at least nine different flavours offered every
day. One bagel may be insufficient to fill you up so take your
time to decide. The coffee is also a special blend, the fresh
squeezed fruit juices are more than a dozen kinds and the
croissants, baked every morning are imported from France.
The bagel and juice bar is appropriate for a quick stop at lunch-
break or on the way to work in the morning. The service will
not slow you down or disappoint, and they deliver. It almost
sounds too nice. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (7-20Lv). PAGXW
Onda Coffee Break B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 8, tel.
+359 2 987 49 20. This coffee bar is a bright, comfortable
and really quite groovy place offering order-at-the-counter
lattes, macchiatos, muffins, cookies, and other comfortingly
familiar concoctions. Surprisingly for Bulgaria, the sandwiches
in the chiller cabinet are actually edible. The upstairs lounge
comes with a great view of the Russian Church and its
pimply bouquet of domes. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. (5-10Lv).
PJGXW
Starbucks café C-4, Corner of ul. Gurko and bul. Vasil
Levski, tel. +359 2 986 32 94, www.starbucks.bg. When
you enter the newly opened Starbucks café you may forget
that you are in Sofia - it looks exactly the way it looks all over
the world and what you expect it to be - coffee aroma, young
staff and loads of delicious cakes. There are seven tables
outside, where even in winter you can enjoy your coffee break,
despite the awful traffic around. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat
08:00 - 22:00. PJGBW
The Bookies C-1, ul. Dospat 37, tel. +359 2 851
90 87. Great little place directly across from the NDK, off
Vitosha Boulevard. One of, if not the, finest gardens in Sofia.
Beautifully enclosed just off the boulevard, the garden was
designed by the owner and she has created a real beauty.
Wooden 2 seater swing, a couple of trees, plenty of sundry
flora and greenery augment the directors chairs and sofas. It’s
a beautiful sun trap too with some great shade. They knock
up a fabulous Mojito, amongst other cocktails, and they do a
really top coffee. The garden seats about 40. The bar inside
is a lovely little place. It seats about 20 and has a real coffee
house atmosphere with bookshelves on the walls. The locals
will greet guests with open arms, and much fun has apparently
been had down The Bookies. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 09:30 - 24:00. JBWSofia is simply swarming with
quirky watering holes, cool designer bars and dance-till-you-
disintegrate clubs. Just try not to get carried away.
Bars
Apartament 52 C-3, ul. Parchevich 52, tel. +359 896
652 087. Sinking into the comfy corner sofas of this lounge
bar is a pleasant way to end a hard day pacing the mean
streets of central Sofia, although there never seems quite
enough going on here to keep you for more than a couple of
drinks. A good place to kick-start the evening before moving
on elsewhere. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBXW
July - September 2009
40 Nightlife
Barabar B-5, ul. Shipka 43A, tel. +359 886 787 982.
This small but perfectly formed café-bar may well be a
15-minute walk east of the centre, but its cosy-living-room
atmosphere makes it well worth seeking out. The vintage
Bulgarian film posters on the walls make a great change from
the beer adverts and commercial logos cluttering up other
establishments of this ilk. The Bulgarian-Scottish bar crew
serve up excellent toasted sandwiches too. In fridays there
is live music. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. PE
Bash Bar C-5, ul. Ivan Asen II 31, tel. +359 2 943 43 97.
This small bar is the place for good music lovers and modern
young people, who are bored of going to discos, and foremost
and crowded places. The bar consists of two levels, as the
first is only bars and the second level is cosy, with comfortable
sofas and shaded light. QOpen 8.30 - 01.00. BXW
Basic C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 55, tel. +359 2 986 36 72.
The welcoming array of deep white sofas will lure you into
this stylish little spot just off ul. Rakovski - just make sure
you don’t end up squatting on one of the cube-sized pouffes
otherwise you’ll have backache come the morning. There’s
an appetizingly wide range of cocktails and spirit shots, and
the designer toilet is cool enough for even the sassiest of
supermodels to feel proud to drop their pants in. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PA
Bilkovata C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 22, tel. +359 2 986
49 05. Hardly anyone remembers the herbal pharmacy
which once stood here (Bilkovata means “The Herbal”), but
the basement bar on this spot is one of the most frequented
places in Sofia. It’s sparsely furnished, smoky, and overcrowd-
ed at weekends, but a combination of off-the-wall background
music and gregarious drinkers lurching around help make it
one of those cult Sofia locations that you have to visit at least
once. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJNBXW
Blaze C-4, ul. Slavyanska 36, tel. +359 888 354 004.
This brash, tight squeeze of a DJ bar has been around for years
and never seems to be in danger of going out of fashion. If you
are dying to meet young trendy locals then you’re in the right
place here. Getting a drink at weekends can require superhu-
man patience, and waiting for the toilet can sometimes take
so long, that you’re on first-name terms with everyone else
in the queue, by the time you finally penetrate the porcelain
sanctuary. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PW
By The Way C-3, ul. Rakovski 166, tel. +359 2 980 38
36, bytheway@faria.bg, www.bytheway.bg. If you really
care about the quality of your cocktails then this split-level bar
is the place to come. The setting is stylish and cosy, and the
high proportion of beautiful young things among the clientele
makes it the perfect place for people-watching. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PAW
Cappuccino bar & dinner B-2, ul. Pozitano 8, tel. +359
896 645 362, cappuccino_2008@abv.bg, www.bar-
cappuccino.net. Despite its short life, Cappuccino seems
destined to become one of the most crowded new additions
to Sofia. Preferred for business lunches, dinners, parties or
just for a cup of coffee or excellent cappuccino, the interior
is a mixture of expensive Italian furniture with a classical
combination of midnight black and crisp white, delicate light-
ing and enviable sound system. The long menu specializes
in Italian dishes, complemented by an excellent selection of
wine from all over world and a variety of cocktails, among the
well-founded reasons this place will be sure to please even
the most capricious visitors. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun
10:30 - 24:00. PAGXW
Sofia In Your Pocket
Hambara C-3, ul. 6-i septemvri 22. Knock on the wooden
doorway in an alleyway behind the Hitriyat Petel restaurant
and you’ll be ushered into this strange candle-lit barn full of
nocturnal humanoids sitting on high wooden stools. It may
seem as if you’ve stumbled onto the set of a vampire movie,
but the hedonistic arty set who hang out here seem friendly.
For those who like a bit of culture with their alcohol, Hambara’s
sporadic programme of live jazz, studio theatre and other
arty happenings provides an added inducement to drop by.
QOpen 19:00 - 02:00.
Chocolate C-3, ul. Rakovski 193, tel. +359 896 624
265, chocolate@clubescape.bg, w w w.chocolate.
bg. Chocolate is an accurate description of the dominant
colour scheme, although the grassy fabrics and ethnic wall
decorations made us think we were in a beach bar some-
where in the South Pacific. Pounding music, a drinks menu
several pages long, and a stylish clientele help to make this
a worthwhile inclusion on any downtown bar crawl. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00. PAW
McCarthy’s B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, tel. +359 878 666
130, info@mc-carthys.com, www.mc-carthys.com.
Finally an Irish bar run by authentic Irish men. Just 10m from
Mc’Donalds (on bul. Vitosha), turn right into the arcade, the
first door to the left - you will see the sign. Climb the stairs
and you will dive right into the clamour of the cheerful crowd.
It seems that time has stopped here - laughter, dancing and
singing replace the hectic life outside. The place is cosy,
decorated, the owners claim, as an old style Irish pub from
the 70’s, no annoying TV-sets to keep you from singing
along. Large windows present you with a “spy” view to the
Court House and the busy Alabin street. Pints of beer, great
atmosphere, cool people, live music on Sundays. This place
is simply a must experience. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sun
11:00 - 24:00. PJEXW
Mediterrani C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 37, tel. +359 897
931 291. We’re not sure what they have to do with the Medi-
terranean, but the combination of whitewashed walls, black
couches and mellow music put us in the right mood to embark
on a relaxing evening of alcohol-oiled conversation. Initially
a bit difficult to find: head into the courtyard of the Mamma
Mia pizzeria and dive down the stairs to your immediate left.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAGXW
Memories C-2, ul. Knyaz Boris I 66, tel. +359 2 952
62 50. One of the few bars in Sofia with over 10 years of
history. The interior resembles an old English pub. Believe
it or not the bar opens in the morning so it’s a good place
for coffee or tea. In the evening, especially during summer
nights, it’s quite difficult to get a table as the place is perpetu-
ally full with young crowds. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (3-5Lv).
PJNGBXSW
Motto B-4, ul. Aksakov 18, tel. +359 2 987 27 23,
motto_bg@hotmail.com, www.motto-bg.com. The red-
brick walls, comfy sofas and designer lampshades of this
roomy bar and diner attain just the right mixture of snazziness
and comfort. There’s a huge menu of cocktails and spirits,
and a selection of light dishes if you’re hungry. The service
lags, especially when the place fills up with Sofia’s fashionable
set, but then you’ll never be short of beautiful people to look
at. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJABXW
Opera B-4, ul. Rakovski 113, tel. +359 2 988 21 41,
opera@mail.bg, www.opera-bg.info. This classy designer
bar in the basement of the National Opera is well worth looking
in on at the weekends, when DJs spin plastic and revellers
flock round the bar. At other times it looks like a furniture
sofia.inyourpocket.com
showroom, with rigid lines of fancy chairs and couches and
not many people sitting in them. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
PABW
Orisha Bar & Dinner B-2, ul. Solunska 50, tel. +359
2 953 32 94/+359 886 31 88 91. This is a warm and
welcoming place situated in the city center, near bul. Hristo
Botev. The menu offers a wide range of cocktails from all over
the world with vodka, whisky, rum, gin, tequila and champagne.
Most popular of them are Bronx Perfect, Alabama Slammer,
Original Singapore Sling and a favourite of the American
writer, Hemmingway Special. The names of the food from the
menu are long and descriptive, with exotic sounding words.
Seafood and chicken dishes are predominant. The bar’s
name is interesting. An Orisha (orixa) is a spirit reflecting a
particular aspect of God in the belief systems of Candomble
in Brazil, and Santeria and Luccumi in Cuba and Puerto Rico
among others. A friendly owner as well as house and chill
out music add to the cozy atmosphere. An excellent place
for business meetings and private parties. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00. PNBW
Tea House (Chay vav fabrikata) B-4, ul. Georgi Benk-
ovski 11, tel. +359 887 051 080, teahousesofia@gmail.
com. Located behind an unlikely-looking metal door (look for
the sign hanging above), this combined café and art gallery is
the perfect place to wind down over a brew. Yogi tea, of which
innumerable varieties are available, seems to be the house
favourite, although there are several beverages of a more
alcoholic nature to get acquainted with too, Antique furniture
and oil paintings combine with post-industrial design touches
to produce a slightly distressed, bohemian vibe. There’s usu-
ally some form of non-mainstream music on the CD system
(world music, jazz or similar), and a regular programme of
off-beat and jazz musical events. Indian-influenced vegetarian
food, which they make on the spot, makes a welcome ap-
pearance on the evenings.Every Thursday Ayurvedic cuisine
and every Thursday and Sunday Tea House is only for non-
smokers.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (6-9Lv).
PLENGXSW
Toba&Co B-3, ul. Moskovska 6A, tel. +359 2 989 46
96, boana@abv.bg. Head round the back of the National
Art Gallery and you’ll come across this curious little café-bar,
occupying the cast-iron pavilion in which the mercurial Tsar
Ferdinand once kept his butterflies. The cocktails aren’t that
great but who cares; everything else on the menu is perfectly
drinkable, the wooden chairs add a dash of Parisian-café
charm, and when DJs turn up they usually spin something
more interesting than Top-40 teen fodder. QOpen 09:00
- 05:00. PNB
Upstairs C-2, bul. Vitosha 18, tel. +359 2 989 96 96,
upstairs@uno-sofia.com, www.uno-sofia.com/upstairs.
First-floor bar overlooking Sofia’s busiest downtown shopping
street, with comfy lounge-bar furniture inside, and a line of
stools along the verandah providing the perfect vantage point
from which to observe the goings-on below. There’s a menu of
fancy food, and a list of cocktails that runs to several pages.
Glamorous without making too big a deal out of it, this is just
what boulevard Vitosha needs. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sun
10:00 - 02:00. ABW
Pubs
Am-Gul C-5, ul. San Stefano 3, tel. +359 2 943 44 16,
www.am-gul.com. An old house in the center of Sofia,
converted into a restaurant. Actually, the place is separated
into two parts in different buildings. One of them is covered
with a partly glass ceiling, a fountain in the middle of the room
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife 41
and a big barbecue. The other part is the second floor of a
house, separated into three rooms with no doors between
them - you feel like you’re at a private party, but sitting on dif-
ferent tables. There are two fireplaces and retro style interior.
The menu is rich with pizzas, salads and barbecued dishes.
Portions are really big and tasty. So, enjoy your wine! QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (5.00-16.00Lv). IGXSW
Flannagans B-4, Radisson SAS Hotel, pl. Narodno
sabranie 4, tel. +359 2 933 47 40, flannagans.sofia@
radissonsas.com, www.sofia.radissonsas.com. Unusu-
ally for an establishment located on the ground floor of an
international hotel, Flannagans succeeds in being a lively
and welcoming venue, even if the prices are a touch more
expensive than elsewhere in town. The draught Guinness and
Kilkenny are well-kept enough to keep you coming back, and
the menu of quality pub food is better than the fare offered
by many of Sofia’s “international” restaurants. Major inter-
national sporting events are given the big-screen treatment.
QOpen 12:00 - 00:30. (20-40Lv). PAUGBXSW
Irish Harp B-2, ul. Sveta Sofia 7, tel. +359 2 989 92
26, www.irish-harp.biz. Smart but slightly lived-in, and with
friendly staff always ready to ask whether you need a refill,
this is the kind of pub that you’ll find yourself drifting back to
whether you’re eager for ex-pat chit-chat or simply in need
of a relaxing drink. Murphys and Guinness on tap, and the
fancy drinks and cocktails aren’t bad either. With several TV
screens tuned to sports channels, this is an ideal place to
catch live matches, or simply nervously await the incoming
football results on Saturday afternoons. QOpen 10:00 -
24:00. PJALEW
J. J. Murphy’s B-2, ul. Karnigradska 6, tel. +359 2 980
28 70, fax +359 2 980 08 60. Restrained lighting, lots of
dark-brown wooden furniture, and a variety of environments
(you can either prop up the bar, watch football on the big
screen, or sit in a quiet corner) all help make this place a
comfortingly familiar home-from-home. They pull a mean pint
of Murphy’s, and if Bulgarian cuisine has left you pining for
Sheperd’s Pie, this is the place to tuck in. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. PENGBXW
Clubs
Babbles C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 22, tel. +359 2 980
65 79, www.babblesclub.com. Ultra-fab designer bar
which looks like a space-ship, a children’s cartoon or a kooky
Sixties’ film set, depending on how many drinks you’ve had
already. It’s the brainchild of owner Kremena Halvadzhian,
who also happens to be one of Bulgaria’s top stylists. The
lively atmosphere is backed up with house music supplied by
popular Bulgarian DJs. If the cheerful colours aren’t enough to
cheer you up, you can resort to a classical cocktail or straight
drink. QOpen 17:00 - 00:00.
Black Box B-2, ul. Pirotska 5. Boasting three dancefloors,
chillout area and V.I.P. lounge, Black Box is something of a
haven for hard-core techno and drum & bass freaks - so
if an after-work dance around the handbag is what you’re
after then you’d be better off heading elsewhere. Most of the
clientele appear to be under 20, but then Black Box’s sanity-
challenging sound system and light show are something that
you have to be in the flush of youth to endure. The club is only
open when a specific DJ event is scheduled, so you really need
to interrogate your in-the-know Sofia friends before making
tracks. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.
Brilyantin B-3, ul. Moskovska 3, tel. +359 2 986
31 12, www.briliantin.com. The name of this club is a
July - September 2009
42 Nightlife
tribute to the dancing skills of Travolta and Newton-John,
as Brilyantin (“Brilliantine”) is the name by which Seven-
ties’ musical Grease is known in Bulgaria. However you’re
unlikely to see any latter-day hep-cats jiving away in their
best rock-and-roll frocks - Brilyantin is actually one of Sofia’s
prime hang-outs for stylish young professionals, wannabe
media types and expensive-cocktail conoisseurs. Matt
black surfaces, the odd mirror-ball and a crowd-pleasing
mixture of retro, house and dance-pop are the order of
the day. Hard to get into at weekends - when you might
have to reserve a table or arrive soon after opening time.
QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. PJA
Club Liqueur B-3, ul. Pirotska 5 (corner with George
Washington), tel. +359 888 888 358, valdesn@abv.
bg, www.clubliqueur.com. The place plays retro, rock,
evergreen, R&B and dance music. The decoration is mod-
ernistic with columns wrapped in silver, the bar and bar plots
are illuminated, the high chairs are with leather seating. The
overall luminous effects are state of the art in red, green
and yellow. Occasionally there is live music. There are also
special alcohol promotions for each day of the week. Just ask.
QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Admission: 3-5Lv. The
club offers: on Monday Students’ party, on Tuesday - Black &
Retro party, on Wednesday - BG music party and on Thursday
ladies go in for free and they have Retro Commercial party.
PJEXW
Colorama Club A-4, ul. Angista 6, tel. +359 893 414
255. The club is a little bit difficult to find - it seems like you
are entering a block to a private party. Going down the stairs
there are sweating people, dressed for Latino dancing and a
low ceiling. Here is the place for all Latino dancers. Good rum,
salsa and merenge and professional dancers, come here to
exercise and to show their skills.
Escape B-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 1, tel. +359 889
990 000, www.clubescapebg.com. Escape boasts
a huge dancefloor, four bars on t wo levels, a bone-
grinding sound system and an energized, foxy clien-
tele. Thursday is retro-disco night, while top-ranking
house and techno DJs twiddle the knobs at weekends.
QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admis-
sion: 10Lv. PJAL
Chervilo B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 9, tel. +359 2 981 66
33, maria@chervilo.com, www.chervilo.com. Ten-year-old
veteran of the Sofia clubbing scene that shows no sign of go-
ing out of fashion. Alongside leading Bulgarian techno DJs, the
club frequently hosts star guests from abroad, and attracts
a correspondingly hip crowd. It is divided into three halls and
though the major club nights are held in the Main Room, some
infectiously off-beat DJ events take place in a smaller space,
the cute Baby Box. QOpen 22:30 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission: 5-20Lv. PJAEBW
Life House B-2, bul. Vitosha 12, tel. +359 888
241 016, www.clublifehouse.com. The name says
it all - this is one of the top venues for house music in
Sofia, with top local and international DJs doling out the
beats. Design is post-industrial and service is of the
kind usually experienced in Sofia clubs - slow but genial.
QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admis-
sion: 2-15Lv. PA
PR G-8, ul. Cherkovna 87, tel. +359 895 500 500, www.
prclub-bg.com. Only a few months old and already seen as
something of a jewel in Sofia’s night-life crown, PR offers stylish
interior, six bars and an amazing lighting rig. Enjoyable, all-inclu-
Sofia In Your Pocket
Nightlife 43
sive mix of house and retro-disco rhythms, enhanced by the
presence of some of Sofia’s most cheerful and friendly staff.
QOpen 23:00 - 07:00. Closed Sun.
Pulse Club A-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 50, tel. +359 898 52 01
50. This small and cozy night club offers a nice environment
in which to escape from the outside world. Designed to keep
you on the dance floor, the club consists of one bar and tables
facing the dance floor. At the entrance of the club there are
three bed - like sofas, where you can chill out on soft cushions.
Make sure you don`t leave your drink unattended ( even on the
bar ), as your half full beer bottle will be gone in no time and
of course the bartenders will know nothing of its mysterious
disappearance. The cloakroom is tiny, so don`t rely on hav-
ing your coat hanging nicely. There are theme parties every
Friday and they not only fill the place with a pleasant crowd,
but they are also an atmosphere and experience you should
not miss. For more information check our culture section.
QOpen 22:00 - 08:00. Closed Sun.
Folk clubs
Help B-2, ul. Hristo Botev 61, tel. +359 2 810 88 88,
bgcinematrade@abv.bg. Housed in the Sin City entertain-
ment complex, an expensively renovated former theatre,
Help is the biggest and flashiest of the folk venues. There’s a
lobby bar playing western dance-pop and an enormous main
hall crammed with tables (reserve in advance if you want
to be sure of one), with a mix of DJs and live musicians laying
down chalga beats. Attracts dressed-up ladies and mean-
looking macho types, so attire yourself accordingly.    QOpen
22:30 - 07:00. Admission: 5-30Lv. PALGBXW
NAI-klub B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie 10, tel. +359 2
981 27 47, dani_nai@abv.bg. Prepare for visual and aural
overload in his cavernous subterranean space, with cave
paintings on the walls, leopard-print tablecloths, and four giant central street. The list of songs is quite rich and various:
feet holding up the ceiling. A foundation-shaking selection of people can choose from MTV hits to French chansons, Casinos
Bulgarian and Serbian chart hits will have your hips swaying Russian chastushki, Bulgarian pop music etc. However
convulsively after a few drinks. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Admis- drinks are not very cheep and Bulgarian alcohol is not
sion: 3Lv. Ladies go in for free. available. Sometimes it is far too overcrowded. An entrance Casino Hawaii D-3, bul. Cherni Vrah 31 Hemus Hotel
fee of 2 lv is included in the bill at the end. You can sing Sofia, tel. +359 2 963 37 63. Located in the Hemus
Planeta B-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 6, tel. +359 2 987 karaoke there all nights except for Friday and Saturday. Hotel, this casino offers table games - roulette, black jack,
94 94, planetaclub@abv.bg, w w w.planeta-club. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. PW Caribbean poker, and slot machines. The staff speaks
com. Not much in the way of fancy decor but hugely English and alcohol is free. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. P
enjoyable nevertheless, with a house band moving room
table to table, and belly-dancers shaking their assets in Live music clubs Casino London B-4, Radisson SAS, pl. Narodno
the direction of anyone who looks like a generous tipper.  8th Ball A-4, Sv. Sv. Kiril i Metodiy 27. This underground sabranie 4, tel. +359 2 980 70 75, fax +359 2 980
Q O p e n 2 0 : 0 0 - 0 6 : 0 0 . A d m i s s i o n : 3 - 1 0 Lv. basement cavern is a place for hardcore punks, hooligans 30 66. Roulette, black-jack, poker and more. QOpen
and all types of tattooed weirdos. It is the place where fast, 00:00 - 24:00. A
Karaoke noisy, unknown and mostly young bands play with fierce
passion. Don’t mess with the bartenders, they are as local Casino Princess F-7, Sofia Princess Hotel, bul.
Backstage Karaoke Bar C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 100, and as tough as you will never be. QOpen 20:00 - 04.00. Maria Luiza 131, tel. +359 2 933 87 00, fax +359 2
tel. +359 896 84 01 61, galio@swinginghall.com. A Admission: 4-5 BGN. 931 00 61. Southeast Europe’s answer to Las Vegas.
spacious club with wide variety of songs. Live concerts are Just don’t go crazy. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
also organized there. The style is predominantly rock. Prices Social Jazz Club C-3, pl. Slaveykov 4, tel. +359 884
are not very low but the entrance fee is modest. The club 622 220, pe6epetrov@mail.bg, www.socialjazzclub. Casino Rila B-3, Rila Hotel, ul. Kaloyan 6, tel. +359
is divided into 2 halls, one of them with a pool table. Food is com. Buried beneath Sofia City Library is one of Sofia’s 2 981 80 67, fax +359 2 981 82 48. 10 total table
not available, except for nuts. coolest music venues, offering a regular menu of live jazz games, restaurant. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AK
including some top names from Bulgaria and the Balkans.
Yesterday Karaoke Bar B-3, ul. Rakovski 82, tel. Although there is standing space in front of the stage, it’s Casino Viva B-3, Sheraton Hotel, pl. Sveta Nedelya
+359 2 981 23 46, pianobar@mail.bg, www.pianobar- best to reserve a table if you want to watch the gig in comfort. 5, tel. +359 2 986 35 01. Good choice of slot machines
vchera.com. A nice small place underground in a noisy The bar serves imported drinks only and prices are on the and table games. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
high side, so do remember to visit the cash point before you
arrive. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. 5-15Lv. PENW
Swingin’ Hall D-5, bul. Dragan Tsankov 8, tel. +359 2
www.inyourpocket.com 963 06 96, galswing@abv.bg. Currently the best place in www.inyourpocket.com
town to catch local rock, blues, jazz and world-music acts,
with a six-day-a-week programme of live music. With three
sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009
44 Nightlife Nightlife 45

bars, two stages, and a brick-lined, cellar-like interior, it’s a

great place for a night out whoever is on the bill. Friendly
party-inclined atmosphere draws musically-inclined Sofians
of all ages, and a generous sprinkling of ex-pats. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 5Lv.
The Club G-8, ul. Nikolay Kopernik 2, tel. +359 2 872
09 46. Once a cult rock club, this cozy 2-store hut is where all
good and professional Bulgarian musicians play. Close to the
audience and with booze flowing from the bar. The owner is a
respected Bulgarian alternative rock musician and producer,
so sound quality is indisputable. Q Admission: 10 BGN.
Have Your Say
If you have had an experience to remember at any of
the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly
or downright sad, let the two million regular unique
visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com,
know about it. Every venue on our website now has
a module below it for you to comment on the places
we write about. You can agree or disagree with us,
scold us or praise us, but do give us your feedback,
its essential!
Gay and lesbian Sofia
There are now several centrally-located gay venues in
Sofia. Most are friendly places catering for a wide clientele
rather than special interests. Up-to-date listing of parties
in bars and clubs can be found at www.gay.bg.
One characteristic of Sofia’s gays and lesbian community
is that many prefer to visit mixed clubs which are known
for attracting a tolerant, open-minded crowd: Chervilo,
Escape and Yalta (see our main “Nightlife” listings for
details) are good examples of these.

Adonis B-2, ul. Knyaz Boris 122, tel. +359 898

Adult entertainment 305 932. Cute little place specializing in Balkan folk-
Angels Club B-3, Sheraton Hotel, pl. Sveta Nedelya 5, pop, popular with transvestites and a younger crowd.
tel. +359 2 987 15 30. Lots of nice dancing girls. QOpen QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.
22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 7Lv. PJAL
Club 18+ C-2, bul. Vitosha 18, tel. +359 2 846
Dolls G-7, bul. Dzheyms Bauchar 100, tel. +359 2 82 54. Newish club on central Sofia’s main street with
963 39 64, www.sofianights.com. Classy club with a different DJ styles on different nights. QOpen 20:00
long tradition, with a sizeable cast of dancing girls and a - 04:00.
programme of erotic shows. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Admis-
sion: 7Lv. PA Essence B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 29,
tel. +359 899 998 666, gocheva@yahoo.com.
Taboo Club B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie 12, tel. +359 2 Lesbian club with a wide spectrum of music. QOpen
987 08 70, www.sofianights.com. Plush environment in closed, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
which to enjoy an array of lovely dancers. Fruit salad - served Thu, Sun. PGX

Guidelines to Bulgarian lifestyle, bars, clubs and discos
1. Try not to stare at women that are accompanied by their
boyfriends, no matter how beautiful they are, it might be
taken as an insult.
2. Try to avoid conflict if you notice Bulgarian people stare
at your wife/girlfriend, or at yourself, usually they will be
just curious. Don’t forget some 19 years ago the majority
of people didn’t even meet foreigners from beyond the iron
curtain, so you are still new and exciting. Bravo!
3. Don’t try to act overly macho, particularly in more provin-
cial towns or cities. Unless of course you are Mike Tyson.
4. When in a bar do not shout or insult the waiters or other
staff members, it may be taken very deeply.
5. If you feel that someone is in some way being threat-
ening or intimidating to you, it is often best to befriend
them. In many cases locals feel threatened by foreigners
and try to show themselves as tough but when you act
as equals and friends they will often almost immediately
drop this façade.
6. If however a conflict situation rises, leave immediately.
Do not stay around and add on to the fire. Bulgarians are
very social and family driven and under a common goal a
big group of people is summoned very fast.
7. Good icebreakers are compliments on the country: The
food, the football, the women, the inventions created by
Bulgarians such as the Cyrillic alphabet and so on. As ad-
ditional benefit you might get an interesting story or two.
Make them talk, they love it.
8.  Strong drinks (vodka, whisky etc.) come in quantities
of 50ml for a small and 100ml for a large. In some places,
unless you specifically ask for small you will be handed a
large by default.
9. Rakia must only be drunk with shopska salad. Don’t ask
us why, it just should. If you order one without salad you
may well be looked at as if you are from Mars.
10. The Bulgarian for “cheers” is nazdrave, which literally
means “to your health”. If someone proposes a toast (and
this could happen innumerable times during the course of
the evening) you have to clink your glass with absolutely
everyone, no matter how many are sitting round the table,
making sure to look in the eye at the point of clinking. If you
fail to make eye contact, they will think you are disrespect-
ful (or just an uninformed foreigner). The custom comes
from ancient times. In days gone by kings, khans and
other important figures would look deep into the eyes of
the person they cheer to guess his intentions. Then they
would bang their glasses so hard, so that a drop of each
drink gets into the other (mixing the drinks would guarantee
they are not poisoned).
11. Be prepared to mix your own drinks. Whilst in England
a “vodka and coke” means a nice mixed drink from the bar,
in BG it means 1 vodka (most likely large) and 1 coke. Mix it
yourself to your own perfect proportions. Cheers.
12.  Bring a gas mask. Many Bulgarians are heavy smok-
ers although this becomes less with new generations.
Some bars can be closed in and stuffy places. Combine
this with a crowd of 40 a day hardcore smokers and you
get quite a fog.
13. Take advantage of the hospitality of the Bulgarian soul.
You might be invited to dinners, parties, cocktail parties,
promotions, etc. Generally Bulgarians love foreigners.
14. In bars you can not bring drugs, guns or other forbid-
den substances. Pretty much like most places you have
been in your life.
15. Big fat silver chains that you could anchor a boat with
are an absolute must. That is if you want to appear young,
cool, like a gangster or simply need to anchor a boat.
16.  If you are going out on a Friday night to a bar and
want to blend in like a local, it is essential that you
haven’t shaved for at least 3 days. Dressing entirely in
black is a bonus.
17. Girls, for you to catch the attention of Bulgarian men,
just act natural and dress sexy.
Exit Club B-6, ul. Lavele 16, tel. +359 888 140
133, alexbesedin@abv.bg. Bar & Diner. Cosy place with
a variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails and a
DJ-party every evening. Not to be confused with the Exit
Club on ul. Suborna, which is completely straight. QOpen
08:00 - 04:00. PJNXW
Zagorka Beer – the leading Bulgarian beer
Just 230 km. away from Sofia, in the heart of the historic
region of Trace, there lays the city of Stara Zagora. Besides
its rich historical inheritance, the city of straight streets,
linden trees and poets, as it is known in Bulgaria, is famous
for being among the birthplaces of one of the most popular
Bulgarian beers - Zagorka.
History
It all started in 1902 with the opening of the “Biraria” /
the Beer House/. This is how people in Stara Zagora
called the new brewing factory of local entrepreneur doc-
tor Kozhuharov. After he had tasted delicious Czech beer,
he decided to build a brewery when he came back to his
home town.
It was after World War II when a new period in Zagorka
history began. This was a period of reconstruction, modern-
ization, and growth. A lot of investments were made. New
automated heavy duty equipment was installed, which was
at a level comparable with the highest world standards. At
the same time, the special attention and care for the quality
brought good results.
Zagorka was the pioneer in beer marketing as well. For
the first time attention was paid to packaging and design.
The portfolio of different tastes and flavors of beer was
expanded. Zagorka – the Bulgarian beer - stepped on new
markets – Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Libya, and others.
Today, more than a century after its foundation, Zagorka is
a leading Bulgarian beer brand. More than any other brand
it symbolizes long standing tradition, experience and rich
history of excellent and constant quality. Zagorka stands in
high esteem and respect of Bulgarian beer connoisseurs.
And even more – it is …The best beer of Bulgaria
Zagorka has always been, and always will be, committed to
providing Bulgarian beer lovers with a drinking experience
of the highest possible standards. With its amber color, full
taste, and rich aroma Zagorka represents the original taste
of the best Bulgarian beer. Throughout its history Zagorka
has won a number of Bulgarian and international medals
and awards, including the highest in the world quality selec-
tion - Monde selection.
Zagorka is not only the highest quality lager, but also a
leader and an innovator on the Bulgarian market. It was
the first beer brand to launch cans and the first to be
exported.
As the general sponsor of the National football team,
Zagorka confirms its image as the leading Bulgarian beer. In
its support for the ‘Bulgarian Lions’, Zagorka has committed
itself to providing Bulgarian football fans with unforgettable
emotions. During the Bulgaria: Ireland football match on June
06, with the help of Zagorka nearly 40,000 fans took part
in the making of the biggest national flag in the history of
Bulgarian football .
In the last 14 years Zagorka has been participating actively
in the development of Bulgarian men’s tennis as well by
sponsoring the most prestigious local men’s tennis tour-
nament – Zagorka Tennis Cup. In 2009 the tournament
grew to ATP Challengers tournament with a record prize
fund of 85,000 EUR that attracted a number of TOP 100
players in Sofia.
This is why, more than any other beer brand, Zagorka is
the symbol of long-lasting brewing traditions, an example
of high quality beer and the undisputable leader on the
Bulgarian beer market.

Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009

46 Nightlife
24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case. Coincidence?
T h e Hun garian exil e s in
Shumen, Bulgaria, led by Lajos
Kossuth after the Hungarian
Revolution of 1848, brewed
beer and are thought to have
found followers among the
locals. However, their stay in
the city was short and they
could not manage to introduce
beer to the masses.
The Frenchman Ducorp, who
worked as a railway engineer
near Sofia between 1873 and
1876, opened a small brewery
in Knyazhevo. The Czech Jiří
Prošek, who first came to Bulgaria in 1873 to work on
the same railway line, noted that the local Shopi had the
custom of brewing primitive beer at harvest time. And
primitive it was. Their recipe: soak grain in water, leave
it to sprout, dry it, add hot water and wild hops, let it
fermentate naturally and cool it.
Bulgaria’s earliest commercial brewery was established
in Plovdiv by the Swiss Rudolf Frick and Friedrich Sulzer
in 1876. It became a large and more modern factory be-
tween 1879–1881 with the help of another Swiss expert,
Christian August Bomanti. Production began in 1882 in
the Kamenitsa area near the city and continues today, its
successor being the Kamenitza brewery. The first brew-
ery in Varna dates back to 1884, when the contractors
Kasabov and Vtichev opened up a small factory.
The professional Czech brewer Franz-František Milde
established the Shumensko beer factory in Shumen
in 1882, and helped in the foundation of the Bulgarian
Brewing Association the same year. Jiří Prošek and his
brothers founded the Vitosha brewery in Sofia in 1884;
they also bought Ducorp’s small brewery and owned
the Dalbok Zimnik cellar. Today, the Vitosha brewery is
known as Ariana.
In 1899, Milde’s Bulgarian partners tried to deceive
him, so he bought the Austrian Johann Habermann’s
brewery in Rousse (established in 1876) and started
producing beer there. Fearing his competition, his
partners quickly paid their debts and Milde returned to
Shumen, leaving his brother Sebastian as the Rousse
factory’s manager.
In the late 19th and early 20th century, beer rapidly
grew in popularity among the Bulgarian middle class,
and a large number of beer houses were established in
most big cities. After World War I, there were already 18
breweries in Bulgaria. Besides those already mentioned,
these included the Stara Zagora factory of Dr. Kozhuharov
(since 1902), the Czechs Malotin and Hozman’s factory in
Lom, the Habermann and St Petka breweries in Rousse,
the German Moritz Ratt’s Cherven Rak factory in Pleven,
W. Ollinger’s in Koshava, others in Veliko Tarnovo and
Gorna Oryahovitsa, etc.
Following World War II, as Bulgaria became part of the
Eastern Bloc, all breweries were nationalized. Since the
democratic reforms in 1989, the Bulgarian beer market
has been dominated by some of the world’s largest
multinational beer companies, like InBev with Kamenitza,
Astika, Slavena, Plevensko and Burgasko; Heineken
with Zagorka, Ariana and Stolichno and Carlsberg with
Pirinksko Pivo and Shumensko.
Sofia In Your Pocket
As well as these multinationals, Bulgaria, a young beer
drinking country, still has a long list of locally owned
breweries. Worth mentioning are Bolyarka, Balkan,
Habermann, Almus, MM, Ataman, Strumsko and Varna.
Additionally, it should be mentioned that the international
beer brands dominate their own substantial piece of the
market with Stella Artois, Beck’s, Heineken, Staropra-
men, Tuborg and Amstel. All of these brewed locally
in Bulgaria.
Numerous beer festivals are organized yearly in the
major cities all around the country, for example in Sofia,
Plovdiv, Pleven, Gabrovo, Sevlievo, Bansko, Vidin, etc.
Beer is packed in various forms, with 0.33 and 0.5-litre
glass bottles giving way to larger and typically more
economical 1.5, 2.0 or 2.5-litre plastic bottles for home
consumption, but still being popular in restaurants and
bars, where draught beer is also very common, while
cans are preferred because of the higher quality.
Bulgarians developed their own way of beer drinking. The
following sentence we dug from the latest MI5 handbook
for spies: Along with your beer ask for a portion of tsatsa
(fish) or skara (barbecue), start talking and laughing
loudly after your fourth cold fellow, to make people around
mistake you for a local. Oh, and please do not forget to
cheer the Bulgarian way, by looking all around you at
each individual with a deep long stare in the eyes and a
mumbled “nazdrave”.
Thoughts about beer is unusually thorough, and the collection is just the right size
• Beer is the greatest invention. The bicycle is also not
bad, but it doesn’t go well with French fries.
• You have to know your limits when drinking beer oth-
erwise you may drink too little.
• Consume a woman with beer and a beer without
women.
• The strength is hidden in beer, the wisdom in wine and
the microbes in water.
• With beer even a shed is heaven.
• Better a beer in the hand than a woman on the
phone.
• A man without beer is like a flower without water.
• Drink beer – the money will come by itself.
• Beer is not like coffee - one glass is never enough.
• Half an hour of healthy laughter does not substitute
a litre of beer.
• For the normal person 1 beer is just fine, 2 beers are
a lot, 3 are not enough.
• You cannot drink too much beer – only the toilet is
too far.
• A sea of beer is not enough – an ocean is better.
• Eat a box of chocolate and you’ll realize how much
better it is to drink a crate of beer.
• The national consciousness may have a different colour,
consistency and alcohol content.
• When drinking good beer, a person still wants to live
when he wakes up.
• The non-alcoholic beer is the first step to the rub-
ber doll.
• Look at the world through beer and it will seem golden
to you.
• Life without beer is like beer without tapas.
• 24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case. Coincidence?
With the support of the Union of Bulgarian Brewers.
www.pivovari.com
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Sofia may not have the grandeur of a great world city, but
its tree-lined, frequently cobbled streets are chock full of
absorbing oddities. As you’d expect for a town that’s over
7,000 years old, the centre of Sofia is like a walk-through
history lesson, with Romans, Byzantines, Bulgarians, Otto-
man Turks and Soviet-inspired communists all having left
their architectural imprint.
Essential Sofia
Alexandar Nevski Memorial Church (Hram-
pametnik Aleksandar Nevski) B-4, pl. Aleksandar
Nevski, tel. +359 2 988 17 04. Built by Russian architects,
inspired by the glories of ancient Byzantium, this multi-domed
cathedral has been Sofia’s visual trademark ever since
its completion in 1924. It was built in memory of Russia’s
nineteenth-century contribution to Bulgaria’s liberation,
although the Aleksander referred to in the title, is actually a
medieval prince of Novgorod, who battled Teutonic Knights.
Decorated from floor to ceiling with frescoes and illuminated
by flickering candles, the vast interior is as atmospheric as
they come. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily Liturgy - 08:00 and
17:00; Vigil - Sat 18:30; Mass - Sun 09:30
Archaeological Museum (Arheologicheski muzey)
B-3, ul. Saborna 2, tel. +359 2 988 24 06, fax +359 2 988
24 05, aim.sofianet.net. Housed in a beautifully restored
fifteenth-century mosque, this attractive display of Thracian,
Greek, Roman and medieval Bulgarian artefacts is by far the
most eye-pleasing museum that Sofia has to offer. Imposing
chunks of Greek and Roman masonry are strewn around the
main hall, while upstairs lie many of the headline-grabbing
Thracian treasures, unearthed by Bulgarian archaeologists
in recent years. Most mesmerizing of all is the solid gold
burial mask of a fourth-century-BC Thracian ruler, excavated
near the central Bulgarian town of Shipka in summer 2004.
A series of Orthodox church paintings depicting the life and
sofia.inyourpocket.com
What to see 47
martyrdom of St George run around the first-floor gallery,
while a room full of exquisite medieval Bulgarian jewelry looks
contemporary enough to provide today’s designers with a rich
seam of inspiration. The bilingual Bulgarian-English labeling
to be easily digestible in one trip. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30.
Admission: 10Lv.
Boyana Church (Boyanskata tsarkva) H-6, ul.
Boyansko ezero 1-3, tel. +359 2 959 09 39, fax +359 2
959 29 66, nmbc@nmbc.orbitel.bg, www.boyanachurch.
org. If medieval church art turns you on, then the UNESCO-
listed Boyana church, will have you foaming at the mouth
with excitement. Just about every square inch of the interior
is covered with bible scenes and saintly portraits, rendered
by thirteenth-century artists. Nobody knows the identity
of the painters, but their mastery of realistic depiction and
sophisticated use of colour puts them on a par with Italian
artists of the early Renaissance.
It is a tiny church consisting of two parts: the oldest dates
from the 10th century, when it served as the chapel of Boyana
fortress. A second floor was added in 1259 by the Sevas-
tokrator (or local governor) Kaloyan, who used the church
as his family chapel. It was Kaloyan, who commissioned the
frescoes for which Boyana church is famous. Restored in
various stages over the past forty years, the main body of
the church was never open to the public in its entirety until
December 2006.
Highlights include portraits of Kaloyan and wife Desislava
dressed in sumptuous robes, and the earliest known portrait
of the white-bearded St John of Rila, Bulgaria’s national patron
saint. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Admission: 10Lv. Combined
ticket including National History Museum: 12Lv.
Visitors are admitted to the church six at a time, at ten-minute
intervals, so be prepared to wait.
National Museum of History (Natsionalen is-
toricheski muzey) G-6, ul. Vitoshko Lale 16, Boyana,
tel. +359 2 955 76 04, fax +359 2 955 76 02, nim.pr@
July - September 2009
48 What to see
abv.bg., www.historymuseum.org. Located in a park-
shrouded former government palace on the northern side
of the Okolovrusten put (Sofia’s main ring road), Bulgaria’s
National History Museum offers a highly enjoyable chrono-
logical journey through oh, at least eight millennia of human
civilization on the Balkan peninsula. The building itself is
a fascinating oddity, having served Bulgaria’s communist
leaders as an official residence until 1989. If anybody ever
launched a lifestyle magazine for would-be dictators, the
marble halls and ornate ceilings in evidence here would make
ideal front-page material.
A sweeping staircase leads to the display areas, where the
circular-shaped Neolithic Hall harbours vividly-decorated jugs
and clay figures. Representations of the Earth Mother God-
dess dating from the sixth millennium BC include a fabulous
pair of buttocks from the Sofia region.
Next up is the Thracian room: unfortunately, many of Bul-
garia’s most famous Thracian treasures are touring western
museums at present, and it is not known quite when they will
come home. However there is still plenty of Thracian gold- and
silverware, fantastically decorated with mythical animals, to
make a visit here worthwhile.
Biggest disappointment is the medieval section, which is
largely based on replicas of items kept elsewhere, or on
photographs of ruined castles and churches throughout
Bulgaria. It’s more of an educational theme-park than a seri-
ous museum display, but it certainly whets the appetite for
further travel within the country.
Upstairs on the second floor lies a knock-out display of
brightly-coloured folk costumes and kilims, and a fascinating
collection of posters, photographs and domestic nick-nacks
documenting the social history of twentieth-century Bulgaria.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Admission: 10Lv. Combined ticket
including Boyana Church: 12Lv. English-language tours cost
20Lv and can be booked in advance on tel. 955 42 80.
Rotunda of St George (Rotonda Sveti Georgi) B-3,
pl. Sveta Nedelya 2. Hidden away in a courtyard behind the
Sheraton Hotel, this dainty red-brick doughnut of a building
is the oldest surviving structure in the city, which still serves
its original purpose. Built by the Romans in the fourth century,
but much changed since, it’s justly famous for the twelfth- to
fourteenth-century frescoes inside the central dome. It’s a
powerful ensemble, with an all-powerful Christ looking down
on successive circles of white-bearded disciples and holy
men. Painted over during the Ottoman period (when the
building was used as a mosque), these frescoes were only
unearthed in the twentieth century. Admission: free, but
donations appreciated. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Russian Church of St Nicholas (Ruska tsurkva)
B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 3, tel. +359 2 986 27 15. Of all
Sofia In Your Pocket
the places of worship in Sofia, this is the most vivacious, its
green steeple and five golden domes outshining pretty much
everything else on this central boulevard. Built just before
World War I to serve Sofia’s Russian community and modeled
on Muscovite churches of the sixteenth century, it looks as if
a small piece of the Kremlin has been plonked in the middle
of the Balkans. A path to the left of the main entrance leads
to the crypt, last resting place of Archbishop Serafim, who
served as head of the Russian church in Bulgaria in the early
twentieth century. An enormously popular and pious man
during his lifetime, Serafim is nowadays accorded almost
saintly status by the Sofians, who come here to write prayers
on scraps of paper which are then posted into a box next to
his sarcophagus. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30.
Zhenski pazar A-2, A-3, ul. Stefan Stambolov. Zhenski
pazar literally means ‘women’s market’, although people
of all possible sexes, ages and pockets throng daily to this
half-a-kilometre-long strip of street stalls lined on either
side by poky shops. Fresh foodstuffs are the mainstay of
the market, but you can also buy flowers, cheap clothes,
household goods, ironmongery and more. There’s not much in
the way of fancy goods or souvenirs, but the raw street-level
vigour of the place makes it well worth a visit. It’s a location
popular with pickpockets too, however, so take good care
of your belongings.
Galleries
Icon Gallery B-3, in the crypt of the Aleksandur Nevski
Memorial Church, tel. +359 2 981 57 75. Stunning col-
lection of Bulgarian icons from the medieval period to the
sofia.inyourpocket.com
nineteenth century. Portrayals of horse-riding warrior saints
such as George and Demetrius are particularly prominent:
they served as potent symbols of struggle and survival during
the long centuries of Ottoman rule. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission: 4Lv.
Sofia City Art Gallery B-3, ul. Gurko 1, tel. +359 2 987
21 81, sghg2@bgnet.bg, www.sghg.cult.bg. The Sofia
City Art Gallery possesses some of the richest collections
of Bulgarian art: 3500 paintings, 800 statues, 2800 graph-
ics and drawings. The Contemporary Art and Photography
department was founded in 2004.
With 1100 square meters of exposition space divided into
four compartments the Gallery arranges some 30 exhibi-
tions every year. Most of the exhibitions display works from
the Gallery’s collections. In addition visiting one-man, group
and general exhibitions of Bulgarian and foreign artists are
arranged. Studies on present-day art and work with young
artists became a special focus of the Gallery’s policy in
recent years.
Sofia City Art Gallery is a museum with long-standing tradi-
tions. Its role is to present the facts of Bulgarian cultural his-
tory in an analytical and modern way and to actively intervene
in art developments by original and impressive projects.
We recommend you to visit also the Vaska Emanuilova Gallery,
branch of the Sofia City Art Gallery B-5 bul. Yanko Sakuzov
15, tel. 944 11 75, www.veg.cult.bg. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Churches
Church of the Holy Seven (Tsarkva Sveti Sedmoch-
islentsi) C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev, tel. +359 2 987 80 23.
One of Sofia’s most handsome neo-Byzantine churches, with
twentieth-century towers and domes tacked on to a much
older central core - which served as an Ottoman mosque
(then briefly as a Bulgarian prison) before reverting to its
original ecclesiastical function. The church honours ninth-
century Saints Cyril, Methodius and their five followers - who
brought literacy to the Slavs and propagated Christianity
throughout Eastern Europe. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily
liturgy 08:00 and 17:00
sofia.inyourpocket.com
What to see 49
Holy Sunday Church (Tsarkva Sveta Nedelya) B-3,
pl. Sveta Nedelya, tel. +359 2 987 57 48. The main city-
centre church and the preferred venue for Saturday-afternoon
weddings, this nouveau-Byzantine structure is the twentieth-
century incarnation of a church that has stood on this spot
since medieval times. It has long been associated with the
miracle-working bones of Serbian king Stefan Urosh, which
are still kept in a wooden box to the right of the iconostasis. It
is popularly believed that certain female health problems can
be cured by leaving an appropriate piece of underwear in the
box for 24 hours (and if you want to test this out you should
really contact the priest, not us). The church’s other claim
to fame is the flamboyantly ambitious terrorist attack that
took place here in 1925, when left-wing activists attempted
to bomb the Bulgarian royal family while they were attending
a funeral. A huge explosion destroyed much of the church
and killed 100 mourners, but the royals escaped unscathed.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily liturgy 08:30 and 16:00.
Church of St Petka of the Saddlemakers (Tsarkva
Sveta Petka Samardzhiyska) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost.
It’s not often that you come across a fourteenth-century
church stranded in the middle of a semi-submerged shopping
mall, but this is the fate that befell St Petka when Sofia’s
post-war planners decided to run a two-lane highway round
either side of it. Incongruously surrounded by glass-fronted
souvenir shops, it’s a delightful, cramped space that feels
more like a damp cave than a church, and features some
faded sixteenth-century frescoes.
National Art Gallery
National Art Gallery (Natsionalna hudozhest-
vena galeria) B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1,
tel. +359 2 980 33 25, sofim@abv.bg. The country’s
flagship collection occupies one half of the former royal
palace, where creaky parquet floors and ornate stuc-
coed ceilings provide the perfect environment in which to
peruse an all-embracing overview of Bulgarian painting.
Strikingly, canvases are hung in the middle of the room
rather than on the walls round the sides. Look out in
particular for the works of Vladimir Dimitrov-Maistora
(1882-1960), whose pictures of Bulgarian peasant girls
surrounded by apples, apricots and other fruit have a
timeless, spiritual quality reminiscent of Orthodox icons.
If you have a hankering for more modern stuff then head
for the ground-floor galleries, where temporary exhibitions
July - September 2009
50 What to see
National Gallery of Foreign Art
National Gallery of Foreign Art (Natsionalna
galeria za chuzhdestranno izkustvo) B-4, pl.
Aleksandar Nevski 1, tel. +359 2 988 49 22/+359
2 980 72 62, ngfa@abv.bg, www.foreignartmuseum.
bg. Wide-ranging collection of work by fair-to-middling
artists you probably haven’t heard of before. You’ll come
across one or two famous names if you look closely
enough, but much of the best stuff is of a small-format
variety (a pastel by Renoir here, a lithograph by Picasso
there) - so it would be unwise to come here with high
expectations. There’s a fourth-century Roman tomb in
the basement (labelled “room 19” on the museum plan),
but it’s not always open. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed
Tue. Admission: 4Lv. Guided tours in English: 15-30Lv
(Monday free).
Church of St Sofia (Tsarkva Sveta Sofia) B-4, ul.
Parizh 2, tel. +359 2 987 09 71. A church since the fifth
century and rebuilt many times since, this was used as a
mosque during the Ottoman period and then abandoned
when an earthquake rendered it unsafe for services. With
most of its medieval decorations and frescoes lost, it’s a com-
paratively plain church by Sofia standards, but the patterned
brickwork provides the interior with enormous visual appeal. A
fragment of original Roman mosaic flooring, preserved under
a pane of glass in the right-hand aisle, stands in testimony to
the church’s ancient origins. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Mosque
Banya Bashi Mosque (Dzhamia Banya Bashi) B-3,
bul. Maria Luiza. The last surviving mosque in Sofia still in
use, the building consists of a large dome and an elegant
minaret and takes its name from the neighbouring Central
Baths - Banya Bashi literally means ‘many baths’. Dating
from 1576, the mosque is said to have been designed by
Hadji Mimar Sinan, the leading Ottoman architect of the day.
Sofia In Your Pocket
The mosque fell into disuse during Communist rule but is now
open for worship once again - you can hear the loudspeakers
on the minaret calling the Muslims of the city to prayer five
times a day. The mosque is not officially open as a tourist
attraction but visitors are welcome outside prayer times,
including women, if modestly dressed.
Museums
Earth and Man National Museum (Natsionalen
Muzey “Zemyata i horata”) D-2, bul. Cherni vrah 4,
tel. +359 2 865 66 39, fax +359 2 866 14 57, earth.
and.man@gmail.com, www.earthandman.org. Despite
being housed in an impressively restored nineteenth-century
arsenal, this geology collection is less dramatic than its title
suggests, exhaustively cataloguing the earth’s minerals with
rows and rows of rock-filled display cases. The outlandish,
brightly-coloured quartz crystals on the ground floor just
about make a visit worthwhile. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission: 2Lv.
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzey) B-3,
pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. +359 2 988 41 91,
fax +359 2 980 11 62, eim_bas@mail.bg, ethnography.
cc.bas.bg. Scintillating displays of folk arts and crafts, drawn
from the museum’s vast collection. Situated in the east wing
of the former royal palace. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: 3Lv.
Ivan Vazov Museum-House (Kashta-muzey Ivan
Vazov) B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 10, tel. +359 2 988 12 70,
vazovmuseum@slovo.bg. Bulgaria’s most revered literary
figure, Ivan Vazov (1850-1921) is best known for writing
Under the Yoke (Pod igoto), a sprawling novel detailing
small-town Bulgarian life at the time of the anti-Ottoman
uprising of 1876. The house where he lived from 1895 until
death is a charming period piece, with furnishings, crockery,
bookshelves - and even the stuffed remains of Bobi the dog
- pretty much preserved as Vazov left it. QOpen , Tue, Wed,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission: 1Lv. Lecture 3Lv.
National Museum of Military History (Natsionalen
Voennoistoricheski muzey) G-8, ul. Cherkovna 92, tel.
+359 2 946 18 05, fax +359 2 946 18 06, m.museum@
bol.bg, www.militarymuseum.bg. A couple of display halls,
stuffed with uniforms and weaponry, and a hugely enjoyable
outdoor section featuring all manner of tanks, jet fighters
and Soviet-era long-range missiles. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 2Lv. Lecture: 10Lv.
National Museum of Natural History (Natsionalen
Prirodonauchen muzey) B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 1,
tel. +359 2 987 41 95, fax +359 2 988 28 94, www.
nmnh.bas.bg. Rocks, insects, stuffed animals, creatures
in bottles, and live reptiles slithering about optimistically in
search of small mammals - so keep a firm grip on the kids.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: 2Lv.
Other sights
National Palace of Culture (Natsionalen dvorets
na kulturata) D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel. +359 2 916 68
30, www.ndk.bg. Opinions differ as to whether the “larg-
US$1 - 1.47Lv; €1 – 1.95Lv;
£1 – 2.17Lv ( july 2009)
sofia.inyourpocket.com
est multifunctional complex in southeastern Europe” is an
attraction or an eyesore, but its dominating position at the
southern end of bul. Vitosha makes it difficult to miss. Built in
the 1980s this hexagonal lump of concrete and glass looks
like a child’s building block inflated to unearthly size. Inside
lie thirteen concert halls of varying sizes, fifty-five congress
rooms, and innumerable offices, The basement level now
accommodates a cramped shopping mall stuffed with inex-
pensive fashions and accessories.
The Central Baths (Tsentralna banya) B-3, bul.
Maria Luiza. Built in 1911 and decorated with exquisite tile
mosaics, this wonderful Art Nouveau-cum-Nouveau Byzantine
bathhouse is for many people the most beautiful building
in the capital. Derelict for many years and now undergoing
restoration, it will in future provide much-needed exhibition
space for the (currently homeless) Museum of Sofia.
The Central Military club (Tsentralen voenen
klub) B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 7, tel. +359 2 988 17
46. This three storey monumental building, designed in the
neo-renaissance style , houses a cafe, an art gallery, 2 refined
halls and an impressive concert hall. The plase looks like a
palace and the concert hall used to be a ball room. Even
though it is not a regular clubkeep your eyes and ears wide-
open for any event which might take place there, and consider
yourself fortunate if you have the chance to attend one. The
concert hall is often rented out for private party events and
it is guaranteed that each one will be prestigious.
The Presidency B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 2. Directly
opposite the archeological museum is the entrance to the
suite of offices where the Bulgarian president does his
nine-to-five job, guarded by soldiers dressed in ceremonial
nineteenth-century uniforms. The changing of the guard, which
takes place on the hour, involves a lot of ritualistic marching
about, and is well worth watching.
Tsentralni hali B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 28. Built at the
same time as the Central Baths and in similar architec-
tural vein, this indoor market hall boasts some beautifully
restored period features - notably the glass roof, cast iron
pillars and Victorian clock tower. Delicatessen stalls at
ground level and fast food counters upstairs ensure a
constant stream of visitors. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00.
Parks & Gardens consists of thugs and Neanderthals, in fact it is the area
City Garden (Gradskata gradina) B-3, . The city’s
sofia.inyourpocket.com
What to see 51
most central park is also the oldest, having served the
Turkish governor of Sofia as a private place of repose in
the years before Bulgaria’s Liberation. It was laid out as a
European-style public park soon after, and still retains an air
of nineteenth-century charm, with carefully tended lawns,
neat flowerbeds, and even an Art-Nouveau newspaper kiosk.
The presence of fountains and open-air cafes on the Theatre
side of the park helps make the City Garden an important
focus of social life both day and night. It’s also Sofia’s prime
meeting point for chess players, most of whom are highly
accomplished and play for money. The stake is negotiable
- from 0,50 to 50 Lv.
Park Vitosha
Vitosha is popular in the winter, but come spring and
watch what happens. The mountain attracts thousands
of happy hikers, ready to explore the numerous tourist
paths and trails. In fact, some destinations can get quite
crowded, especially on weekends. But there is choice.
Old Sofia
It’s been around 130 years since Sofia was liberated
and proclaimed Bulgarian capital in 1887. With about
20, 000 population back then and only trams and
horse carriages roving the unpaved, muddy streets,
the city has changed tremendously and at the same
time has managed to preserve its historical appear-
ance. The heart of one time old Sofia, enclosed by
Konstantin Velichkov Boulevard and Skobelev Boule-
vard to the west, Banishora district and Maria Luiza
Boulevard to the north, Oborishte district to the east
and Patriarh Evtimiy Boulevard to the south, quickly
changed its face from an oriental to more western and
modern city in the first couple of decades after the
Liberation.
Sofia districts
To know Sofia, you should learn about the town’s neigh-
bourhoods, which number 90, by the way. Glamorous
and new, or crumbling and built by communists, with neat
houses and yards or greyish, dirty concrete blocks, these
living areas span for miles from the centre and millions
live in them.
Lyulin F-6.
Sofia’s biggest neighbourhood has been a grey, dirty, rusty
and unfriendly place for years. Isolated from the centre it
exists as a town within the city. Somewhat dark, it is not a
friendly place for those not used to it. Stray dogs and the
homeless roam the litter-infested wasteland between the
huge concrete blocks of flats, which dominate the land-
scape. Living in them can be challenging as your neigh-
bours can hear you through the walls and are always ready
to throw their trash from the window or balcony. Having
so many people, some of whom with a solid working class
background, on one small place, results in lots of tension
and violence as well as all types of criminal activities.
Of course, this doesn’t mean that Lyulin’s population
with the youngest population in our town. There are twelve
July - September 2009
52 What to see
high schools, two language ones and fifteen kindergartens
in the ten micro-areas of the neighbourhood. These are
numbered from one to ten and to get you more and more
confused, the closest to the centre is number 10. All
blocks in Lyulin have a three digit number, depending on
the micro-area.
Going to Lyulin is best by car, but otherwise you can try
the public transport. Trolley lines 6 and 7, tram number 8
and busses 42, 43, 53, 54, 81, 82, 108, 111, 309, 310,
go there, but using the fast and comfortable metro line will
probably save you a headache or two. Try to stay out of
trouble and don’t challenge locals who have the amazing
ability to gather a reasonable fighting posse in minutes.
Statues
Aleksandar Stamboliyski B-4, Corner of ul. Rakovski
and ul. Vrabcha. Leader of the Bulgarian National Peasants’
Party, and Prime Minister from 1919 to 1923, Aleksandar
Stamboliyski presided over a radical government that prom-
ised fair land distribution and a revival of village life. Conser-
vative circles feared a peasant revolution, and Stamboliyski
was overthrown, tortured, and chopped into several pieces by
paid killers - it’s a shame that nothing like this ever happened
to Todor Zhivkov, our communist dictator. Stamboliyski’s
statue now stands beside the Opera House (strangely, both
the National Opera and the National Peasants’ Party share
the same building).
Evlogi and Hristo Georgievi B-5, Sofia University, bul.
Tsar Osvoboditel 15. The Georgiev brothers made their for-
tunes in nineteenth-century Odessa, then used their wealth to
fund the establishment of Bulgarian-language schools. Their
place in the country’s cultural pantheon assured, they now
bask beside the steps of Bulgaria’s biggest university like a
pair of contented walruses.
Monument to Holy Wisdom (Statuya na Sveta So-
fia) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost. Once occupied by a behemoth-
sized statue of Lenin, this prime city-centre site was left va-
cant throughout the 1990s, and it wasn’t until the millennium
that this 24-metre-high bronze goddess - an allegory of “Holy
Wisdom” - appeared on the spot. The city of Sofia originally
Sofia In Your Pocket
Ugly Sofia
Monument to the Bulgarian State (Pametnik
na balgarskata darzhava) C-2, pl. Bulgaria. Sofia
is probably unique in Europe in being the only capital
which can boast a decaying pile of junk as one of its
major downtown focal points. Unveiled in 1981 to mark
the 1300th anniversary of the founding of the Bulgarian
state, this unimaginably shoddy memorial is an eloquent
metaphor for much that has happened in Bulgaria in the
intervening 25 years. It was barely a decade old when it
started falling to bits, and the question of who should pay
for its refurbishment (or demolition) has been the object
of inconclusive bickering ever since.
An angular piece of modern sculpture with statues
emerging absurdly from its summit, the monument
has long been the object of popular scorn - “the seven-
angled thing with five pricks” being the most enduring of
its many nicknames. Currently surrounded by hoardings
to prevent bits of it from falling on the heads of passers
by, its future remains uncertain.
The empty space in front of the National Gal-
lery B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenbeg. The empty space
in front of the national gallery stands in eloquent tribute
to the vacuous posturing of Bulgaria’s post-communist
rulers. The building that used to stand on this spot
was one of socialist-era Sofia’s principal landmarks, a
mausoleum, built to house the corpse of Bulgaria’s first
communist leader Georgi Dimitrov. Dimitrov’s body was
removed in 1990, but arguments about how it is best to
use the building itself, dragged on for a decade. Eventu-
ally the right-wing government of Ivan Kostov decided
to blow the mausoleum up, believing that such an act
would somehow symbolize Bulgaria’s triumphant march
towards democracy. President, prime minister and foreign
dignitaries assembled to view the demolition in January
2000, only to discover that repeated detonations failed to
bring the mausoleum down. Eventually the crowds drifted
away, and the bulldozers were brought in.
www.discover-bulgaria.com
sofia.inyourpocket.com
got its name from the Church of Sveta Sofia (“Holy Wisdom”)
in the centre, and this statue was intended to symbolize the
connection. However it was far from clear how an abstract
concept like “Holy Wisdom” could be portrayed in a sculpture
(is it a bird? is it a plane? is it a 24-metre-high bronze woman?),
and Sofians remain unsure whether this shiny female with a
dove in her right hand really fits the bill.
Monument to the Tsar Liberator (Pametnik Tsar
Osvoboditel) B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie. This 14-metre-
high lump of bronze designed by Italian artist Arnoldo Zocci
honours Russian Tsar Alexander II who, by declaring war on
the Ottoman Empire in 1877, liberated Bulgaria in the process.
The reliefs surrounding the pedestal - including a scene in
which the goddess of victory leads troops into battle - make
for some stirring viewing.
Petko and Pencho Slaveykovi C-3, pl. Slaveykov.
Bulgaria’s foremost father-and-son literary duo perch on a
bench beside the square that, appropriately enough, now
hosts Sofia’s biggest book market. Educationalist, politician
and writer Petko Slaveykov (1827-1895) did much to preserve
Bulgarian literature’s links with its folkloric roots; while his son
Pencho (1866-1912) took things a step further by penning
modern verse influenced by Romanticism, Symbolism and
other modish western currents.
Popa C-4, corner of ul. Graf Ignatiev and bul. Patriarh
Evtimiy. This rather inconspicuous statue of a bearded
ecclesiastic honours Patriarch Euthymius (Patriarh Evtimiy in
Bulgarian), the fourteenth-century church leader who presided
over a flowering of Bulgarian culture before being led into
sofia.inyourpocket.com
What to see 53
captivity by the Ottoman Turks in 1393. It’s nowadays the
most popular meeting point in the city - if you’re going on a
date or a bar crawl, the chances are you’ll rendezvous here.
“Popa” is Bulgarian slang for “priest”.
Stefan Stambolov B-4, Corner of bul. Tsar Osvobodi-
tel and ul. Rakovski. Prime Minister from 1887 to 1894,
Stefan Stambolov was the most talented - but also the
The Parliament
The building of the Bulgarian Parliament is more than 120-
years old now. It is a monument of historical and cultural
significance, but with time, it has shown that it can hardly
provide the premises for the 240 members of Parliament,
its personnel and the numerous journalists and visitors. The
interior has not changed since the beginning of the 20th
century and here and there, the plastering is falling apart.
Recently, it was estimated that moving to a new building would
be cheaper than reconstructing the old one and the Former
Party House and its main hall Sveta Sofia, were appointed as
the new home for the Legislative Body. The irony of history
remembers some violent times for both buildings, as the Party
House was pillaged and torched in the year 1991 and the
Parliament Building saw the crowds clashing with the police
and breaking windows and cars. That was back in the year
1997, when the democratic opposition organized month-long
street protests against the socialist Cabinet of Zhan Videnov.
Things have changed since these “dark” days and now the
activities of the legislators are much more transparent. To
strengthen this image, the architects, who won the compe-
tition for reconstructing the Party House, intend to build a
glass dome and front for the new plenary hall. Bigger and
better rooms with modern furniture are planned, both for
representatives and for their guests. Hopefully their work will
also improve and we will never again see people breaking or
burning anything, built with taxpayer’s money.
www.discover-bulgaria.com
July - September 2009
54 What to see Crossword 55

Socialist Sofia
1 2 3 4
As with many authoritarian regimes throughout the and also one
ages, Bulgaria’s communist rulers suffered from an of t h e m os t 5
overweening desire to turn politics into a highly visible controversial.
part of the urban landscape. Government buildings were A skyline-dom- 6

conceived as grandiose statements of political order, inating 34-me- 7

while statues of socialist heroes employed simple, often tre-high pillar, it
childlike imagery to teach important ideological lessons. is crowned by 8
Despite the demolition of many communist landmarks a flamboyant
after 1989 (notably the rotund statue of Lenin that once statue of a Red 9 10 11

rose like a malevolent iron pig above the central pl. Army soldier
Nezavisimost), present-day Sofia still boasts a compel- leading a Bul-
ling collection of sites where you can examine socialist garian couple 12 13 14
art at first hand. to ward s t h e
Promised Land 15
Friendship Bridge (Most na druzhbata) C-4, of commu-
crossing of ul. Graf Ignatiev and bul. Evlogi Georgiev. nism. Bronze 16 17 18

Built in 1953 to symbolize brotherhood between Bulgaria bas-reliefs on

and the Soviet Union (a relationship in which one brother either side of
was always bigger than the other), this bridge boasts an the pillar show scenes from the October revolution, World 19 20
impressive ensemble of sculptures, with statues represent- War II battles, and Soviet troops entering Bulgaria to be
ing the peasantry, the intelligentsia and the armed forces. greeted joyfully by the locals. 21 22

Most telling inclusion is the pair of nineteenth-century

Russian and Bulgarian soldiers on the north-eastern pier:
a clever piece of propaganda suggesting that the Soviet
Union’s “liberation” of Bulgaria in 1945 was simply a repeat
performance of the Liberation of 1878.
Mound of Brotherhood (Bratska mogila) G-8,
23 24
In 1993 Sofia City Council voted to destroy the monument,
pointing out quite rightly that it symbolized Bulgaria’s sub-
servience to a foreign power. Faced by opposition from the
Bulgarian Socialist Party, and discouraged by the potential 25 26
cost of its demolition, the Council had no choice but to leave
the monument as it is. For much of the last decade the area 27

Borisova gradina. Many of the artists responsible for the around the monument has become the favoured meeting
Soviet Army Monu- point of Sofia’s skateboarders, although construction work
ment also worked on on the Sofia metro has recently encroached on their space. 28 29
the Mound of Brother- Turn up on important dates like May 9 (the anniversary of
hood, a 42-metre-high Germany’s surrender in 1945) or September 9 (anniversary
obelisk that rises dra- of Bulgaria’s communist-led coup in 1944) and you’ll prob-
30 31
matically from a ridge ably see die-hard communists gathering at the monument
in the south-eastern to demonstrate their undying faith in the cause.
corner of Borisova EclipseCrossword.com
gradina park. Built in Statues outside Vasil Levski Stadium C-4, bul.
1956, it is intended to Evlogi Georgiev. Authoritarian regimes have frequently Across Down
commemorate those exploited the popularity of sport to build a cult of strength, 3.Name of Sofia Mayor 1.GAVE HIS NAME TO THE RUSSIAN CHURCH
who fought and fell discipline and order. Produced by a team of sculptors in 6.DISTRICT OF SOFIA 2.BULGARIAN FOR PLEASE
in various stages of the mid-fifties, these idealized statues outside the main 7.C RE ATI ON OF TH E ARC H I TEC T F RI E DRI C H G RU - 3.POPULAR MOUNTAIN DESTINATION
the struggle against entrance to the stadium are perfect examples of this cult ENANGER 4.ALEXANDAR BATTENBERG GOT REPLACED BY
fascism - from th e in action. Depicting footballers, athletes, gymnasts and 8.MOST POPULAR MEETING POINT IN THE CITY 5.NEEDED WHILE DRIVING OUTSIDE CITIES
Bulgarian communist other examples of socialist achievement and perfection, the 9.ANOTHER 5 START HOTEL 10.Bulgarian for No
uprising of Septem- statues were originally eight in number. An empty pedestal 12.MAIN PEDESTRIAN boulevard 11.CAPITAL OF BULGARIA
ber 1923 (a badl y- marks the spot where one of them went missing, presumed 15.BULGARIAN FOR FRIDAY 13.NAME OF THIS GUIDE
planned affair that stolen, in the mid-1990s. 17.NAME OF THE US PRESIDENT 14.HIGHEST PEAK
culminated with most of the participants being rounded 19.SOVIET ARMY MONUMENT 16.MEANING OF A BULGARIAN SHAKING HIS HEAD
up and shot) to the Red-Army offensives of World War II. A The Party House (Partien 20.SHE HAS HER OWN HOTEL IN SOFIA 18.SALTY PASTRY FILLED WITH WHITE CHEESE
monumental statue of machine-gun-toting partisans stands dom) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost. 23.HOME OF THE ST. SOFIA GOLF CLUB 21.SQUARE NAMED AFTER PETKO AND PENCHO SLAVEYK-
at the base of the obelisk, while bas-reliefs on either side Sofia may lack the bombas- 26.KILLED BY A POISONED UMBRELLA OVI
portray striking workers, and Soviet troops being greeted tic baroque skyscrapers be- 27.MAIN RELIGION in Bulgaria 22.FROM 1000-200 BC BULGARIA IS RULED BY
by Bulgarian civilians. stowed by Stalin on Moscow 28.Hotel with Japanese garden 24.ABBREVIATION NATIONAL PARK OF CULTURE
and Warsaw, but the local ruling 29.LEADING BEER 25.ONE OF BULGARIAS GREATEST HEROS
Soviet-style fresco E-4, wall of a school on ul. Sveti caste did at least make an ef- 30.PRIME MINISTER FROM 1919 TO 1923
Naum. Hidden from the street by a politically-prudish pair fort with this custard-coloured 31.POPULAR MOUNTAIN DESTINATION CLOSE TO SOFIA
of trees, this is one of the few examples of agit-prop art neo-classical edifice at the STAMBOLIYSKI—31. BOROVETS—
still to be found in the city. The fatherly face of Lenin beams end of pl. Nezavisimost. Built NDK—25. LEVSKI— KEMPINSKI—29. Z AGORKA—30.
down from one side of the wall, while a ruggedly handsome to house the Communist Party SLAVEYKOV—22. THRACIANS—24. MARKOV—27. ORTHODOX—28.
cosmonaut smoulders away quietly on the other. Central Committee, it once 16. YES—18. BANITSA—21. HILTON—23. RAVNO POLE—26.
sported a massive red star
Soviet Army Monument (Pametnik na Savetska-
13. IN YOUR POCKET—14. MUSALA— OBAMA—19. OBELISK—20.
atop its rocket-like spire - when
ta armia) C-5, Orlov most. Built in 1954 by a team of ar-
VIGNETTE—10. NE—11. SOFIA— 15. PETUK— VITOSHA—17.
protesters attempted to torch BANSKO—4. COBURG-GOTHA—5. SYNAGOGUE—8. POPA—9. SHERATON—12.
chitects and artists working under Danko Mitov, this is one the building in August 1990, the star was hastily removed. NICHOLAS—2. MOLYA—3. 1. BORIS—6. LYULIN—7. 3.
of the best examples of socialist sculpture in the Balkans, The building now provides office space for Bulgarian MPs. Down Across

Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009

56 Golf
Golf in Bulgaria
Contrary to the popular Bulgarian belief, golf is not just a
small, trustworthy car from Germany, but one of the worlds
most popular contemporary sports, from Scotland. For
years, Bulgarians saw neatly dressed folks, hitting the white
balls around lush meadows only in the movies. There were
a few of them, who actually enjoyed golf, but only abroad
and with the unfortunate possibility to be ostracized as
filthy rich elitists. It was in the hungry, crisis times of the
early nineties, when golf entered the local media, with the
first ever project for a course in Bulgaria by the Japanese
business woman Masako Oya. Unfortunately, there are
just few unfinished country houses left on the building site
today, haunted by disputes, as the land is still not used, or
returned to its owners.
The birthday of golfing in Bulgaria is July 10th 2000, when
the first 18-hole course Air Sofia opens in Ihtiman. There are
three more functioning courses, the St. Sofia Golf Club in the
village of Ravno Pole near Sofia, the second Air Sofia course
in the town of Sliven and the luxurious BlackSeaRama near
Balchik to the north of Varna. A lot of planning and invest-
ment has already gone into several new courses, which
will open in the near future. It appears that Bulgaria can
be a desired golfing destination and this sport has a great
potential for development. But why is golf so big?
It is an individual and recreational sport, practised in a
calm, green environment. It combines pure dexterity with
the primordial human desire to hit things with a club and
although it looks boring, can be as entertaining and excit-
ing as sky diving. You don’t need to be an athlete to play
golf, as even walking can be evaded by riding those fancy
little carts. Going further, golfing has a lot more to it, than
putting the ball in the hole. The socializing opportunities of
this game can be of significant value, because business
contacts are easily made while playing the game and dining
in the relaxing atmosphere of the golf club house.
Maybe Bulgaria’s most anticipated golf course is Thracian
Cliffs to the north of Varna. Designed by Gary Player and
located directly at the northern Bulgarian Black sea coast
right at the edge of the cliffs facing towards Cape Kaliakra.
Finally we in Europe will become our own Pebble Beach.
Golf Jokes
Ivan and Peter went golfing one Saturday afternoon, but
Ivan had a specific order from his wife to return before 4
o’clock, because he had to take her shopping. He did not
come home at four, then five, six o’clock and in the end
Sofia In Your Pocket
57
showed up at seven.
- Where the hell were you? – the wife yelled.
- Something terrible happened, dear - answered Ivan.
– On the first hole Peter received a heart attack and
died on the spot.
The wife felt guilty and said: - Oh my god, that’s just
terrible!
- Tell me about it! For the rest of the game I had to hit
the ball and then drag Peter along!
A man got stranded on a desert island and for ten years
he did not see a single person. To his surprise one day
a gorgeous blonde with scuba gear came showed up on
the beach and started tickling his long beard.
- Hmmm, honey, how long has it been since you smoked
a cigarette? – she asked.
- Ten years already – he answered.
She unzipped the pocket on the left sleeve of her neo-
prene and took out a pack of cigarettes and a lighter.
He lit one, inhaled slowly and heaved a sigh:
- I was dying for a smoke. It is fantastic!
When he finished smoking, she asked him:
- How long has it been since you had a drink of
whisky?
- Ten years already – he answered.
Then she slowly unbuttoned her right neoprene pocket
and took out a small bottle of whisky.
- Oh my god, it’s just marvellous! – said the man after
he drank half the bottle. – I had forgotten how good
it tastes.
Then the blonde started to slowly unzip her neoprene
and temptingly purred:
- And how long has it been since you had, you know…
fun?
The man could not believe how lucky he was:
- Oh, God, don’t tell me you brought golf clubs!
sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com April - June 2009
58 Getting around Crossword Getting around 59

Relax. There seem to be more signs, written in English

language on major roads, and there are more and more
Domestic train schedule the recently opened Terminal 2. Aeroflot, Alitalia, Air France,
Austrian, Bulgaria Air, British Airways, Lufthansa etc. fly from
pick up tram No 1 or 7 outside the train station (see above).
There is a taxi booking office just beside the main exit.
Bulgarians, who feel confident to talk “English”. After all, they Terminal 2 and the low-cost companies EasyJet, Sky Europe, Some international buses arrive at the Trafik-Market termi-
have been watching American subbed movies for years, and From Sofia To Sofia Wizzair, My air, etc. fly from Terminal 1, so double-check which nal mid-way between the main train and bus stations. As this
even some gas-pumping people have university degrees. Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr. terminal you need before setting out (the terminals are not is nothing more than a parking lot bordered by ticket offices
The more you get stuck in traffic jams and the harder it is to 06:30 12:27 Burgas 05:30 11:40 within walking distance of each other). Both terminals have and café kiosks, you’ll have to walk to the main stations on
park, then you must be in the city centre. free Wi-Fi hot spot zone, limited eating and drinking facilities, either side to find any facilities.
07:20 14:00 Burgas 06:55 14:20
souvenir shop on Terminal 1 and souvenirs, leather goods,
13:45 20:52 Burgas 14:20 21:15 electronics, fashion, optics and tobacco shops on Terminal 2, By car
16:00 22:14 Burgas 15:40 21:55 as well as business class lounge at the Departure hall.
Airlines 22:40 06:02 Burgas 22:15 05:35
Regardless of your point of entry, you deserve plaudits for
being so brave. The first thing you need to do is reduce your
Aeroflot B-5, ul. Zlaten Rog 22 fl.1 office 2B, tel. +359 06:30 08:27 Plovdiv 06:00 08:37 To get to the airport from the city centre, a properly metered speed to avoid the many police checks on incoming roads.
2 962 10 01, fax +359 2 962 55 66, sofrepr@aeroflot.ru, 06:38 09:40 Plovdiv 06:30 10:09 taxi shouldn’t cost more than 16Lv (€8). Otherwise, head for Follow the lead of other cars (not the ones who overtake
www.aeroflot.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. 07:20 09:27 Plovdiv 07:00 09:18 Orlov Most (C-3) and take bus No 84 to Terminal 1, or No 284 and temporarily drive on the wrong side of the road) and get
Closed Sat, Sun. 08:30 10:48 Plovdiv 08:00 10:20 to Terminal 2. Tickets cost 1Lv, as well as each bulky piece patiently in line should you encounter a traffic jam, which are
10:40 13:04 Plovdiv 10:33 12:56 of luggage. Q PAULGKW unfortunately becoming more and more frequent, especially
Aerosvit A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 9-11, fl. 2, tel. +359 2 13:45 16:05 Plovdiv 11:45 14:20 during rush hour. Parking can be difficult to find in the city, and
980 78 80, aerosvit@nettisat.bg, www.aerosvit.com. you should be aware that the blue zones cost 1Lv per hour.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
14:15
15:30
17:16
17:29
Plovdiv
Plovdiv
12:00
13:00
21:55
15:34
Arriving in Sofia Failure to pay can lead to clamping and your car being towed
16:30 18:29 Plovdiv 14:10 17:30 By plane away after 2 hours. Parking vouchers are sold on the spot by
Air France B-3, ul. Frityof Nansen 9, 3d floor, tel. 16:55 20:20 Plovdiv 15:40 18:17 ZSofia International Airport (Letishte Sofia), 10km east of parking attendants or you can just send SMS to 1302 with
+359 2 939 70 10, fax +359 2 939 70 35, mail.sofia@ 17:30 19:52 Plovdiv 17:25 20:30 the city centre, is divided into two terminals - the aging Termi- your registration number (for Bulgarian and transit license
airfrance.fr, www.airfrance.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. nal 1 and the recently opened Terminal 2. The arrivals halls plate numbers), and you will be notified when the time is up,
18:35 20:50 Plovdiv 18:10 20:46
Closed Sat, Sun. at both terminals boast cafés, car-hire and taxi counters, giving you the chance to pay for the next hour.
19:10 21:10 Plovdiv 19:40 21:55 information desk, ATMs and exchange bureaux (although
Alitalia C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 5, tel. +359 2 981 67 22:40 01:10 Plovdiv 20:21 22:43 beware that rates here are not particularly generous, so it’s
02/+359 2 980 69 30, fax +359 2 981 67 04, info.so- 07:05 14:14 Varna 07:55 15:12 best to only change enough cash for immediate survival). Buses
fia@alitalia.it, www.alitalia.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. 09:55 18:05 Varna 09:20 18:17 Getting to town: avoid the taxi touts, thronging the arrivals Central Bus Station (Tsentralna avtogara) F-7, bul.
Closed Sat, Sun. 10:40 19:18 Varna 10:55 19:03 halls and head instead for the official ranks of yellow taxis Maria Luiza 100, tel. +359 0 900 21000/+359 2 18
13:25 21:18 Varna 12:40 20:40 parked outside (OK Supertrans and Taxi S Express). The fare 68, fax +359 2 813 31 44, www.centralnaavtogara.bg.
Austrian Airlines G-7, ul. Zlaten rog 12, tel. +359 2 22:20 08:00 Varna 21:40 07:35 into town shouldn’t cost more than 16Lv (E8). Opened in 2004, Sofia’s sparkly glass-fronted bus terminal is
806 00 00, fax +359 2 962 42 40, sofia.office@aua. 23:35 07:50 Varna 22:30 06:32 Alternatively, you can catch the bus - No 84 from Terminal everything that the train station fails to be: bright, clean, and
com, www.austrianairlines.bg. Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 937 1 or No 284 from Terminal 2. Both run to Orlov Most (C-5) well furnished with toilets, cafes, and nappy-changing areas so
31 33. Open 07:00-18:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed For further information call tel. +359 2 932 42 80/ on the eastern fringes of the city centre, departing roughly delightful that we almost wish we still wore them. Finding out
Sat, Sun. +359 2 931 11 11 or visit www.bgrazpisanie.com every 10-15 minutes between 05:00 and 23:00. Tickets where to buy a ticket can be a bit of a hassle: a main ticket
*In Your Pocket is not responsible for changes. cost 1Lv from the kiosks beside the bus stop, or from the counter handles most services, but there are over 40 smaller
British Airways C-2, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 49, tel. +359 driver. You also have to buy a separate ticket for each bulky sales desks serving individual bus companies - some of these
2 954 70 00, fax +359 2 954 80 00, sofia.sales@ba.com, piece of luggage; otherwise, you run the risk of being fined offer a wide range of popular destinations in Bulgaria and
www.ba.com. Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 937 31 11. Open 09:00- olympicair-bg.com, www.olympicairlines.com. QOpen by ticket inspectors. abroad, while others operate a once-in-a-blue-moon service
17:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. to Outer Mongolia and precious little else. An information
By train desk near the entrance may direct you to the ticket desk you
Bulgaria Air D-2, ul. Ivan Vazov 2, tel. +359 2 402 04 Turkish Airlines B-3, ul. Saborna 11A, tel. +359 2 988 Sofia’s Central Station (Tsentralna gara), open 05:00 require, but only if the staff are in a good mood.
06, fax +359 2 986 24 88, tickets1@air.bg, www.air. 35 96, fax +359 2 980 41 51, thu-sof-sat@medicom.bg, - 24:00, is an unwelcoming concrete hangar 20-minute
bg. Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 937 33 70. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, www.thy.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. walk north of the city centre. Facilities include left-luggage, There are plenty of companies here offering direct services
Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. money exchange kiosks, ATMs, bars and fast-food outlets. to European cities: doing international trips by bus is usu-
Beware of pickpockets who hang around the station and the ally faster and more comfortable than by train. QOpen
Czech Airlines B-3, ul. Serdika 22, tel. +359 2 981 54 adjoining underpass. There are coin-operated left-luggage 00:00 - 24:00.
08, fax +359 2 981 13 86, ticketing.sof@czechairlines.
com, www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
International train schedule lockers in the basement (2Lv for 24hrs), and a left-luggage
office (garderob) just off the eastern side of the main ticket Ovcha kupel G-6, bul. Ovcha kupel 1, tel. +359 2 955
Closed Sat, Sun. hall (open 06:00 - 23:00; 2Lv per item). 53 62. Several domestic services to destinations south
From Sofia To Sofia Cheapest way of getting to town is to hop on tram No 1 or 7 of Sofia (such as Dupnitsa, Rila Monastery and Melnik)
LOT Polish Airlines B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr. (buy ticket from kiosks or from the driver - 1 Lv) from opposite leave from Ovcha kupel bus station, 5km southwest of the
27A, tel. +359 2 987 45 62, fax +359 2 980 32 93, 07:01 12:54 THESSALONICA 17:34 23:25 the station forecourt - head for the subterranean underpass centre. To get there take tram No. 5 from ul. Alabin or tram
a.petrov@lot.pl, www.lot.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. 17:05 22:52 THESSALONICA 23:49 06:30 to find the platform. Either of these will take you to pl. Sveta No. 19 from the Central Station.QOpen 06:30 - 18:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. 07:45 17:19 BUCHAREST 12:16 21:33 Nedelya, well placed for central Sofia’s amenities - get off Trafik-Market F-7, bul. Maria Luiza, tel. +359 2
19:30 05:44 BUCHAREST 20:04 06:00 when you see the Sheraton Hotel looming up on your left. 981 29 79. Many international bus services (including
Lufthansa B-3, Platinium Business Center, ul. Bacho 11:55 19:18 BELGRADE 07:50 17:40
The taxi drivers hovering outside the station are an unpre- plenty to Macedonia and Greece) leave from this parking
Kiro 26-30, tel. +359 2 930 42 42, fax +359 2 981 29 dictable bunch; check that their meters are switched on lot immediately to the west of the Central Bus Station.
21:20 04:48 BELGRADE 21:15 07:15
11, lufthansabg@dlh.de, www.luf thansa.com. Sofia or agree a flat fare before setting off; otherwise walk 200 There’s a timetable board detailing departures, a confu-
Airport G-9. tel. 937 31 41. Open 05:00-20:00 QOpen 19:10 08:19 ISTANBUL 22:00 10:50 metres east to the bus station (see below) where the taxi sion of kiosks selling tickets for individual services, and
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For further information call tel. 987 07 77 firms are more reputable. plenty of shops and cafés. There aren’t any other facilities
By busMost international and domestic buses arrive at the on offer here, but as you’re only a stone’s throw away from
Malev Hungarian Airlines C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy spanking new Central Bus Station (Tsentralna Avtogara), the train and bus stations, this shouldn’t be a hardship.
19, tel. +359 2 981 50 91, fax +359 2 981 50 96, so- 200m east of the Central Railway Station. Compared to other Yug G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 23, tel. +359 2 872 23 45.
fia@malev.hu, www.malev.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Airport points of arrival, the bus station is comfortingly civilized, with This hard-to-find bus station hidden beneath a road bridge is
Closed Sat, Sun. Sofia International Airport (Letishte Sofia) G-9, clean toilets, plenty of shops and cafés, a pharmacy, and an the place to catch buses to the town of Samokov southeast
bul. Christopher Columbus 1, tel. +359 2 937 22 ATM. There is a 24-hour left-luggage office (2-3Lv depending of Sofia, which is in turn the main jumping-off point for the ski
Olympic Airlines B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 55, 11/+359 2 937 22 12, public@sofia-airport.bg, www. on size of bag) in the main ticket hall. resort of Borovets. To reach the bus station take tram No.18
tel. +359 2 981 45 45, fax +359 2 980 10 50, sofia@ sofia-airport.bg. Located 10km east of the city centre, Sofia To get into the centre of town from here, stroll either south
Airport consists of two terminals, the grotty Terminal 1 and down bul. Mariya Luiza (15-20 min), or walk 200m west to

Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009

60 Getting around Crossword Getting around 61
to the Hotel Moskva and walk the remaining 400m down 2 946 43 72, 439 09 50. Bring this issue of Sofia In Your
Dragan Tsankov. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Pocket and you will get 6% discount, just for our readers.
Tany 97 G-8, ul. Anton Chehov 69, tel. +359 2 970 85 00, Flight schedule
reservations@tany97.com, www.tany97.com. Sofia Air-
Car rental port, Arrivals hall G-9, tel. 0889 998 998. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Avis F-6, ul. Orion 84, tel. +359 2 826 11 00, Thrifty Car Rental F-8, ul. Kozloduy 4, tel. +359 2 931 From Sofia To Sofia
fax +359 2 827 30 57, r eser vations@avis.bg, 60 00/+359 887 503 030, fax +359 2 931 60 09, reser- Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.
w w w.avis.bg. Sofia Airpor t, Terminal 2 G-9, tel.945 vations@thrifty.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
92 24. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Top rent-a-car C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 41, tel. +359 2
Best Rent and Travel B-5, ul. Shipka 24, tel. +359 981 53 81/+359 888 333 548, office@toprentacar. 1-34567 07:00 09:00 Amsterdam FB 1234567 10:40 14:10
884 797 108, office@bestrentacarbg.com, w w w. bg, www.toprentacarbg.com. -2----- 07:45 09:45 Amsterdam FB 1234567 10:40 14:10
bestrentacarbg.com. Bring this issue of Varna In Your 1-3-5-7 12:30 14:15 Athens FB 1------ 09:00 10:15
Pocket with you and you will get 10% discount, especially for
our readers. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Car repairs 1234567
123456
06:00
16:10
16:15
16:25
Budapest FB
Budapest FB
1234567
1-34-567
13:05
23:20
15:25
01:40
CarRent G-9, bul. Iskarsko shose 13, tel. +359 Dunev Motor Sport G-8, ul. Nikola Gabrovski 100, tel. 1-3-567 08:10 09:30 Berlin FB ---4-6- 10:10 13:20
2 960 14 08/+359 888 221 600, fax +359 2 +359 2 962 45 38, fax +359 2 962 08 52, dms@dir.
960 14 46, carrent@promobile.bg, w w w.carrent. bg. First-class service with English-speaking staff. QOpen 1-3-567 16:30 17:55 Berlin FB -----6- 13:50 17:00
bg. Free delivery/collection 24hours/day, 7days/week. 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 1234567 10:50 11:55 Istanbul TK 123---- 08:30 09:45
C a r R e n t a l B u l g a r i a H - 9 , b u l . Ts a r i g r a d - 1234567 17:40 18:50 Istanbul TK ---45-- 17:10 18:25
sko shose 62, tel. +359 2 974 36 63/+359 889
993 663, fax +359 2 974 18 81, office@carren- Public transport 123-5-- 14:35 16:20 London FB -2----- 08:55 14:00
12345-- 12:20 13:40 London EJ 12345-7 06:30 11:40
tal.bg, w w w.carrental.bg. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Public transport
Sofia is amply covered by an interlocking network of trams, 1------ 19:45 21:05 London EJ 1------ 13:55 19:05
buses and trolleybuses, with services running from about 1-3-5-7 11:00 12:10 Milan WA 1-3-5-7 12:40 15:40
05:00 to 23:30. Despite some new additions to the fleet, 1234567 06:25 07:35 Milan AZ 1-3-5-- 15:05 18:05
however, vehicles tend to be antiquated, filthy, overcrowded 1234567 18:30 19:40 Milan AZ ------7 15:45 18:45
and above all slow: it can take half a lifetime to cross the city
from one side to the other. An additional problem is posed 1234567 08:00 10:00 Paris FB 1234567 11:40 15:25
by the lack of information concerning routes - while bus and 1234567 13:20 14:15 Rome AZ 123456- 10:30 13:40
City Rent H-8, Business Park Sofia, building 8C, tel. tram stops in the city centre are marked with numbers of 1234567 11:25 12:05 Vienna OZ 1234567 10:45 13:20
+359 2 489 82 08/+359 889 218 080, fax +359 2 services and details (in Cyrillic) of destinations served, those 1234567 15:15 16:00 Vienna OZ 1234567 13:45 16:25
489 82 09, officesofia@cityrent-bg.com, www.cityrent- in the suburbs are invariably rusty old shacks bearing no
bg.com. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A information whatsoever. Your only hope is to buy a decent
Europcar B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 20b, city map with tram and bus lines marked on it - then study Airlines codes: AF - Air France, AZ - Alitalia , BA - British Airways, DU - Hemus Air, FB - Bulgaria Air, LH - Lufthansa, LO - Lot
tel. +359 2 981 46 26, fax +359 2 980 85 78, it for as many months as it takes to learn them all by heart. Polish Airlines, MA - Malev Hungarian Airlines , OA - Olympic Airways, OS - Austrian Airlines, OK - Czech Airlines, RO - Tarom
reser vations@europcar.bg, w w w.europcar.com. From May 2009 there are 3 new bus lines which are almost Romanian Airlines, TK - Turkish Airlines For further information call tel. 937 22 11, 937 22 12.
Sofia Airport, Arrivals hall G-9, Terminal 1, tel. 945 92 83. non-stop and stop at the bus stops every one hour during
Terminal 2, tel. 945 92 66. Free delivery / collection, 7 the night. Bus 605A (from Druzhba 2 to Obelya Autostation)
days / week. Hot line 0884 816 666. Open 09:00-21:00. runs from 01:09 to 23:59, bus 606B (from Lyulin 3 to Mladost
Her tz G-7, bul. Nikola Vaptsarov 53, Seat show- 4) runs from 01:13 to 00:03 and bus 607C (from Levski G to
room, tel. +359 2 439 12 22, fax +359 2 439 12 Ovcha kupel 2) runs from 01:26 to 00:16.
25, office@her tz.bg, w w w.her tz.bg. Sofia Airpor t, Single-journey tickets cost 1Lv and can be bought from street Bus schedule
Arrivals hall G-9, tel. 945 92 17. Open 08:30 - 23:00. kiosks or from the driver. Once on board each ticket must
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. be validated by punching it in one of the primitive pronged To Burgas 07:00, 08:00, 08:30, 10:00, 10:20, 11:00, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 15:30, 16:15, 16:45, 17:00, 22:00,
machines positioned near the doors of the vehicle. A strip 22:15, 00:00.
(talon) of 10 tickets costs 7.50Lv but take care to use them To Bansko 07:00, 09:20, 10:30, 11:50, 12:30, 13:05, 13:55, 14:40, 15:10, 16:20, 17:30.
in sequence - tickets numbered 1 to 9 are not valid unless To Plovdiv – there are buses to Plovdiv at almost every half an hour from 07:00 to 00:00
you’ve still got the tenth one in your possession. Officially, To Ruse 06:15, 07:00, 08:00, 08:30, 10:30, 12:00, 12:30, 14:00, 14:30, 15:00, 16:00, 16:30, 17:00, 18:30, 22:00
you’re supposed to punch an extra ticket for each large item
To Varna – there are buses to Varna at almost every half an hour from 06:30 to 00:30
of baggage, but in practice this is rarely enforced - except
on buses to and from the airport. Inspections are frequent To Veliko Tarnovo – almost every bus going to Varna has a 15 minutes pause in Veliko Tarnovo
and there are spot-fines for fare-dodgers - officially 10Lv,
although unscrupulous inspectors delight in making foreign- For further information call tel. +359 0 900 210 00, +359 18 68 or visit www.centralnaavtogara.bg
ers pay more. * In Your Pocket is not responsible for changes.
Passes valid for one day (karta za edin den - 4Lv), or one
month for one line(karta za edin mesets za edna linia - 23Lv),
are also available - but they can only be bought from kiosks
Hire My Car G-6, ul.Pirinski prohod 23, tel. +359 at major stops, not from the driver.
2 955 92 55/+359 888 55 92 55, fax +359 2
9 5 5 6 1 2 2 , o ff i c e @ h i r e m y c a r b g . c o m , w w w .
Minibus
Several popular cross-town routes are operated by privately
Taxi companies
hiremycarbg.com. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. owned minibuses (marshrutki). Rather than being limited to
Miama r ent-a-car G-6, ul. Aleksandar Push- specific stops, they can be hailed at any point along their OK Supertrans tel.+359 2 973 21 21, for mobile 1TAXI, www.taxi91280.net/.
kin 38, tel. +359 889 602 060/+359 888 route, and will drop passengers off on request. There aren’t www.oktaxi.net. Radio CV Taxi tel. +359 2 9 12 63,for mobile 12 63
778 866, inf o@miama-rentacar.com, w w w. any tickets: simply jump in, press yourself into an avail- Taxi S Express tel.+359 2 9 12 80, for mobile 1280, Ricars Taxi tel.+359 2 9 11 14.
miama-r entacar.com. Lu xur y ren t-a-car s er vi c e. able corner, and pass 1.50Lv forward towards the driver.
National G-9, Sofia International Airport, Terminal Many people prefer marshrutki to regular buses because
2, tel. +359 2 937 35 94/+359 888 706 264, fax of their speed and convenience; others are turned off by
+359 2 945 92 09, airpor t.national@mirkat.bg, the tendency of drivers to pack passengers in like sardines
www.nationalcar-bg.com. The have second office on and then career around the city like crazed drag racers. If
ul. Poruchik Georgi Kuymuyrdzhiev 22, et. 2, tel. 00359 you’re in any way prone to travel sickness, don’t forget to

Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009

62 Getting around
take a puke bag.
Metro
One of the metro lines runs from Serdika station in the city
centre to the western suburb of Lyulin - which is great if you
happen to live in Lyulin, but not much use otherwise. If you
fancy a ride just for the heck of it, tickets (1Lv) are differ-
ent from those used in trams and buses, and can only be
purchased from ticket counters in the underground stations
themselves. The newly opened second metro line runs from
Vasil Levski Stadium to Mladost 1.For detailed information
check the map at the back of the magazine.
Taxis
There are over 15,000 taxis in Sofia: some of these are
rusty crates driven by frustrated rally drivers; the majority
are roadworthy vehicles operated by more-or-less reputable
companies. Legitimate taxis are coloured yellow and have
an oval sticker on the windscreen; they also display a square
sticker indicating the rates in BGN. Charges are supposed to
be metered, but some drivers will switch the meter off and
demand an inflated fare if they think you’re a gullible foreigner.
By law a receipt should be issued for every taxi ride you take.
The charges are cheap, ranging from 0.59Lv - 0.70Lv per
kilometre. The agreeing of flat-rate fares beforehand is a
common practice, even in licensed cabs, especially for des-
tinations outside the city limits. A tip of 10-15% is common
practice. Most taxis hang around at the big intersections,
although you can order them by phone - just don’t expect to
get through to an English-speaker (you can always ask your
hotel receptionist to do it for you). Don’t be surprised if your
driver doesn’t have a detailed knowledge of the city and asks
you for directions. Few drivers speak a foreign language.
You’d be well advised to stick to the taxi companies recom-
mended below in order to keep overcharging problems to a
minimum, although you’re unlikely to survive without being
ripped off at least once during your stay.
Drink&Drive , tel. +359 886 600 602, www.drink-drive-
bg.com. If you wish to drink and be driven home call to phone
above. They will come in 20 minutes.
Tourist information
The National Tourist Information Centre B-3, pl.
Sveta Nedelya 1, tel. +359 2 933 58 45, fax +359 2 989
69 39, info@bulgariatravel.org, www.bulgariatravel.org.
The Tourist Information Centre has undergone a far-reaching
facelift in the past few months, and now constitutes an
inviting and altogether quite chic info-boutique, equipped
with designer bar-stools for tourists to perch on while helpful
staff distribute free maps or search their databases for the
answers to all sorts of queries. They aren’t authorized to make
hotel reservations on tourists’ behalf, but they do distribute
well-informed locally-published guides like this one. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski
20B (entrance from ul. Lavele), tel. +359 2 980 51
02, fax +359 2 980 32 00, info@zigzagbg.com, www.
zigzagbg.com. The staff at this private travel agency spe-
cializing in individual and alternative holidays are a mine of
invaluable information - be aware however that they charge
a 5Lv consultancy fee (which is deducted from the cost of
any arrangements you book through them). QOpen 08:30
- 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sofia In Your Pocket
Trains
Central Station (Tsentralna gara) F-7, bul. Mariya Luiza,
tel.+359 2 931 11 11 / +359 2 932 33 33 (information
in Bulgarian only). English-language timetable information on
www.bdz.bg. Despite recent renovation Sofia’s main train
station remains a dispiritingly dingy hive, comprising two
floors of queue-clogged ticket counters, functional cafes
and hole-in-the-wall shops. Brightening things up consider-
ably is the flirty little steam engine (built by the German
Henschel company in 1918) parked right in the middle of
the main ticket hall.
Always allow plenty of time to buy your tickets and board your
train: platforms are often numbered differently to the tracks
running either side of them, so you may find yourself scuttling
up and down several stairways in an effort to locate your
train. Tickets to Varna and northern Bulgaria are sold in the
main ticket hall; tickets to Burgas and southern Bulgaria are
sold in the basement. International tickets are sold by the Rila
office, which is located at the end of a corridor leading off the
main ticket hall to the left as you enter. Tickets can be bought
in advance from two locations in the city centre: Transport
Service Centre, in the basement shopping mall of the Na-
tional Palace of Culture (NDK), tel.+359 2 932 42 80. Open
Mon - Sat 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun, and Railway Ticket
Agency Rila /international lines/, ul. Gurko 5, tel.+359 2 987
07 77. Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun.
Travel agencies
Alma Tour B-3, ul. Serdika 12, tel. +359 2 805 68
00/+359 2 981 31 38, outgoing@almatour.net, incom-
ing@almatour.net, airtickets@almatour.net, www.
almatournet. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Jamadvice Travel Ltd. G-8, ul. Asen Zlatarov 10, tel.
+359 2 943 30 11, fax +359 2 946 12 61, mark@btibul-
garia.com. International airline tickets and business travel.
Lyuba Tours D-4, ul. Tsanko Tserkovski 22, tel. +359 2
963 33 43, fax +359 2 963 31 42, info@lyubatours.com,
www.lyubatours.com. Small-group weekend trips within Bul-
garia to places of historical, cultural and ethnographic interest.
Polytours Tsar Asen 61, tel. +359 2 981 12 22, fax
+359 2 980 41 25, tours@polytours.com, www.poly-
tours.com. QOpen 9:00 - 18.30. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Stars travel C-2, ul. Khan Asparuh 57, tel. +359 2 811
47 81/+359 888 42 57 84, fax +359 2 811 47 82, of-
fice@starstravel.info, www.starstravel.info. International
airline tickets and business travel QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Usit Colours C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 35, tel. +359 2 981
19 00, fax +359 2 981 99 91, sofia@usitcolours.bg,
www.usitcolours.bg. Specialists in youth and student travel.
Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski
20V, tel. +359 2 980 51 02, fax +359 2 980 32 00, info@
zigzagbg.com, www.zigzagbg.com. Bulgarian independent
travel specialists organizing hiking trips, B&B reservations,
car rental, and tailor-made excursions into the great outdoors.
ZIP Travel C-1, bul. Praga 8, tel. +359 2 917 59 30, fax
+359 2 917 59 49, sofia@ziptravel.bg, www.ziptravel.
bg. International company specialised in student travel and
training, exchange programs and low price air tickets.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Sofia’s smartest shops - including any number of interna-
tional designer outlets - jostle for attention along either
side of bul. Vitosha, the city’s main north-south pedes-
trian, trams and police only, shopping street. Mainstream
clothes, domestic and electrical stores can also be found
in abundance along consumer-clogged streets like ul. Graf
Ignatiev and ul. Pirotska.
24hr food and drink
Familia C-3, bul. Rakovski 147, tel. +359 2 980 71 05.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Fantastiko B-5, bul. Madrid 8, tel. +359 2 988 65 90,
www.ff-bg.net. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Magazin 345 B-3, ul. Veslets 4, tel. +359 2 988 98 75.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PA
Antiques & Collectables
Antikvariat Zlatorog A-4, ul. Pop Bogomil 10, tel.
+359 2 983 35 08, vanili_@abv.bg, www.antikvariat-
zlatorog.com. Offering everything from chintzy crockery to
dressing-tables, wardrobes and hat-stands, Zlatorog is a
must-visit for retro-furnishing freaks. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Letostrui C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 9, tel. +359 2 988 18
81. Furniture, porcelain and other oddments. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Strash A-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 41A, tel. +359 2 983 93
08. If you collect stamps, old postcards or vintage cartoons,
this is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Viga Antiques B-3, ul. Alabin 50, tel. +359 2 980 54
07. Antiques from folk costumes to clocks. QOpen 10:30
- 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Books
Booktrading C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 50, tel. +359 2 981
04 48. One of the best of the high-street bookstores, with
a good selection of English, French and German paperbacks,
art books, and international guidebooks (Eyewitness, Rough
Guides and more). QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 10:00 -
20:00.
Helikon C-2, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 68, tel. +359 2 987
19 19, bigbookshop@helikon.bg, www.helikon.bg.
Browser-friendly bookstore on three floors with a smat-
tering of English-language titles, international guide books
including Rough Guides, and a small cafe where readings are
sometimes held.
The other bookshop from the Helikon chain is on bul. Alek-
sandar Stamboliyski 17
Ploshtad Aleksandur Nevski
Ploshtad Aleksandar Nevski B-4, . Open-air bric-
a-brac market offering communist-era medals, stamps,
postcards, junk from granny’s attic, and some genuine an-
tiques. Lace-makers and embroiderers sell their wares at
the eastern end of the strip on the corner of pl. Aleksandur
Nevski and ul. 11 August. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Shopping 63
Ploshtad Slaveykov
Ploshtad Slaveykov C-3, . This long rectangular
square is home to a hugely enjoyable book market. If your
language skills aren’t quite up to the latest in Bulgarian
fiction then you can at least browse your way through
lavishly illustrated books on Bulgarian culture, or pick up
the Bulgarian-English phrasebook you always pined for.
QOpen 09:30 - 19:00.
B-2, tel. 988 40 29, e-mail - officeeubcc@helikon.bgQOpen
09:30 - 20:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. A
Interkniga B-5, ul. Shipka 6, tel. +359 2 944 41
41/+359 899 973 966. Inside the headquarters of the
Bulgarian Artists’ Union, this bookshop has lots of full-colour
art books, and some English-language paperbacks. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun.
Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski
20, tel. +359 2 980 51 02, info@zigzagbg.com, www.
zigzagbg.com. This independent travel agent has a better
selection of maps of Bulgaria than any other shop we’ve
encountered in the capital. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Clothes & Accessories
525 C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 8, tel. +359 2 980 64 10.
Snazzy, locally-made clothes for the slightly off-the-wall
trendsetter, plus lots of eccentric accoutrements. QOpen
10:30 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Atelie Mirella Bratova C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 4, tel.
+359 2 980 71 56, www.mirellabratova.com. Stylish
bohemian fashion creations from the inspired Ms Bratova,
and aura-emanating ethno-pendants by Daniela Andreevska.
QOpen 10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Eco Hand E-2, ul. Tsvetna Gradina 6, tel. +359 888 532
086/+359 888 476 879. Reclaimed hand-made works of
art, souvenirs, clothes, accessories and textiles.
Muhomorka C-3, ul. Ivan Shishman 45, tel. +359 2 958
29 85, www.muhomorka.biz. Aladdin’s cave of colourful
clothes and eastern-influenced textiles. They also sell large-
format cigarette papers but we don’t understand what these
might be used for. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Punto & Kanela C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 52, tel. +359 888
413 749, mokanova@abv.bg. Small but chic collection of
domestic designer woolens, and some imaginative necklaces
July - September 2009
64 Getting around Shopping 65

Shopping smarts Shopping centres

Open Отворено Otvoreno City Center Sofia E-2, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. +359
Closed Затворено Zatvoreno 2 865 72 85, pr@ccs-mall.com, www.ccs-mall.
Push Бутни Butni com. Glossy consumerist temple comprising 3 storeys
Pull Дръпни Drapni of shops (including Bulgaria’s first Marks & Spencer), a
Monday Понеделник Ponedelnik cinema, and a floor of food options including sushi bar
Tuesday Вторник Vtornik and a brace of Italian restaurants. The ground-floor
Wednesday Сряда Sryada newspaper kiosk is a good place to pick up English-
Thursday Четвъртък Chetvurtak language press. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTALK
Friday Петък Petuk Mall of Sofia B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski
Saturday Събота Subota 101. Sofia’s newest shopping mecca is an enormous
retail, business and entertainment centre boasting
Sunday Неделя Nedelya
over 130 shops (many selling international brand-
names), fancy cafés and restaurants, and a 12-screen
multiplex cinema. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAK
and bracelets. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. TZUM B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 2, tel. +359 2 926 07
Closed Sun. A 00, tzum@tzum.bg, www.tzum.bg. Three floors of
expensive fashion, accessories and cosmetics, and a
The Earth Collection C-4, ul. Ivan Shisman 20, tel. first-floor café where young ladies like to sit and pout after
+359 885 807 764, shop@theearthcollection.bg, www. a tiring day looking at clothes. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,
theearthcollection.bg. For the first time in Bulgaria the well Sun 11:00 - 20:00. PK
known brand of environmentally friendly clothes made of
100% refined natural fabrics mixing raw silk, cotton, ramie,
hemp and linen. Lightweight, breathable, long lasting and
elegant clothes. Garments with versability, wearability and
comfort. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

Cosmetics
Casyopea C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 19, tel. +359 2 852
64 78, office@casyopea.com, www.casyopea.com.
Natural cosmetics store with enough varieties of soap to
keep you smelling sweet for several lifetimes and great
variety of candles to lift your spirit. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. A
Flowers
Bouquet C-3, ul. Rakovski 147, tel. +359 2 988 51
97. Phone orders taken on tel. 098 14 14. QOpen 09:00
- 23:00.
Hypermarkets
HIT H-8, Mladost-3 bul. Aleksandаr Malinov 75, tel.
+359 2 817 51 00, hit-info@hit-hypermarket.bg, www.
hit-hypermarket.bg. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. AU
Kaufland H-8, zh-k Mladost -3 ul. Philip Avramov 3,
tel. +359 0800 12 220, customer.services@kaufland.
bg, www.kaufland.bg. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00
- 21:00.

Metro Cash & Carry G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 7,

Gifts & Souvenirs
Balgarski Dyukyan A-2, ul. Pirotska 11. Enough folksy
crockery, embroidered tablecloths, and Turkish-style copper
coffee pots to decorate that designer Balkan peasant kitchen
of your dreams. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Carpet House/Tchu kilim A-4, ul. Rakovski 38,
tel. +359 2 983 66 09, sales@tchukilim.com, www.
tchukilim.com. Looks like a regular domestic carpet shop
from the outside but is also Sofia’s leading outlet for authentic
all-wool kilims made in the weaving town of Chiprovtsi. With
a selection of small rugs in stock, they also take orders for
kilims if you have a couple of months to spare. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Ethnographic Museum Shop B-3, pl. Aleksandar
Batenberg 1. Folk costumes, traditional crockery, ethno
jewellery and music CDs. It’s one of the best places to buy
Bulgarian kilims - at 160Lv per square metre they’re prob-
ably more expensive here than in their villages of origin, but
authentic and affordable handiwork nevertheless. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.
tel. +359 0 700 100 71, info@metro.bg, www.metro.
bg. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.
Markets
Graf Ignatiev C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev.
M ore b anana s t h an you can sh ake a cu cum-
b er at, and vice-versa. Q Open 09:30 - 19:00.
Rimska Stena D-4, ul. Hristo Smirnenski. One
of the liveliest food markets, worth visiting for the
piece of preser ved Byzantine for tress wall which
sticks up amidst the stalls. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Sitnyakovo bul. Shipchenski prohod. Fresh produce
market popular with the expat community - you might
well find the kind of exotic fruit and vegetables that
doesn’t turn up elsewhere. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Zhenski Pazar A-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov. Vast
open-air bazaar selling flowers, foodstuffs, cheap
clothes, broomsticks, spare parts to machines you
never even knew existed, and kitchen sinks. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00.

Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009

66 Shopping
Music shops
0.4.3. (O.Ch.Z.) B-2, ul.Tri Ushi 3, tel. +359 2 981
72 27, www.Z043.org. Everything about this hell-hole
screams of bloody metal! From the millions of skulls on the
shelves and the thundering sounds, ravaging the stereo,
to the metalheads, round the corner, who will always
test your “metal-ness”, before even talking to you. CD-s,
t-shirts, accessoires and rock memorabilia…and that
Motorhead shirt you’ve always wanted. They just have it
all! QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
SMF Music Hunter C-2, ul. William Gladstone 30A,
tel. +359 2 981 60 76, www.smf-bg.com. The most
extensive collection of CD-s, DVD-s and T-shirts with
unreadable band logos. Almost every important album
in rock, punk metal and enough bloody and satanic CD-
sleeves to give you nightmares for the rest of your life…
QOpen 10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10.30 - 19.30. Closed Sun. A
Vision A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 55, tel. +359 2 983 55
09, visiomessige@abv.bg. One of the oldest shops for
music t-shirt and accessories in Sofia. They offer spray-
cans for graffiti and can dress you up as a street maniac
from head to toe. There is also a tattoo parlour in the
basement. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11.30 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Praktiker H-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 323, tel. +359
2 817 01 20, fax +359 2 817 01 58, www.praktiker.bg.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Jewellery
Avi Center B-2, ul. Vitosha 18B, tel. +359 2 930 70
70, office@avi-center.com, www.avi-center.com. High
quality gold, diamonds and platinum jewellery. Q Open
10:00 - 19:30, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
El Grado C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 61, tel. +359 2 986 24
80. Gold, silver, precious stones, orders of unique examples,
repairs. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Photography
Kodak Express C-3, pl. Slaveykov 11, tel. +359 2 987
00 74. Develops your holiday snaps in a jiffy as well as sell-
ing film of all kinds and a range of professional kit. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
Supermarkets
Billa G-7, ul. Sofiyski Geroy 4, tel. +359 2 951 52
66, billa@bg.billa.co.at, www.connect.bg/directory/
Sports equipment
Makalu Sport B-1, ul. Vladayska 23, tel. +359
878 988 727, www.makalusport.com. Specialized
climbing and mountaineering equipment. Information
about trekking, hikking, climbing and caving in Bulgaria.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Stenata B-2, ul. Bratya Miladinovi 5, tel. +359 2
980 54 91, stenata@omega.bg, www.stenata.com.
Everything you might need for hiking, camping, climbing
and caving. Friendly advice from experts. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
Sofia In Your Pocket
BGSF000111/. Aisle upon aisle of international food and
drink. Pile your trolley high. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00.
Piccadilly E-2, City Center Sofia, bul. Arsenalski 2,
tel. +359 2 819 45 67, fax +359 2 819 45 55, www.
piccadilly.bg. Pretty much everything you need for your
weekly shop is in here somewhere. Big deli counter, freshly
baked bread, and aisle upon aisle of alcohol. Another at B-1,
Mall of Sofia. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Tobacco & Drinks
100 Grama Sladki C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 18A, tel.
+359 2 980 40 62, www.100gr-sladki.com. The name
of this treasure trove of a shop literally means ‘one hundred
grams of sweets’, although you’ll probably be drawn into
buying more once you catch sight of the riches behind the
counter. Custards, tarts, cakes and hand-made chocolates
will appeal to the sweet-toothed, while mini-quiches are
perfect for a more traditional lunch-snack. There’s a small
sit-down area for those who want to linger over a cup of tea
or coffee, but do be warned that the longer you spend hanging
around here, the more things you will be tempted into buying.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Cheers B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 14, tel. +359 2 987 12
72, office@cheersgroup.bg, www.cheers.bg. Finest tobac-
co and cigars, pipes and smoking accessories, brand alcohol,
selected wines. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A
sofia.inyourpocket.com
health & Lifestyle
446, fax +359 2 952 05 56, vasilkaltd@abv.bg, www.
vasilka-bg.com. Complete cleaning services. Abonament
cleaning services. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Kindergartens
International Children`s Creativity Centre H-7, Dra-
galevtsi, ul. Vaklinets 36, tel. +359 2 967 31 12/+359
88 940 763, iccf@geobiz.net, www.iccf-bg.com. Accepts
children between the ages of 2-6.QOpen 08:30 - 17:15.
Teddy Junior H-6, Boyana, ul. Poetichna 6, tel. +359
878 262 052/+359 878 262 053, tedidimitrova@mail.
24hr pharmacies
Adonis G-7, Zh.k.Hipodruma, bl. 121, ul. Urvich 1,
tel. +359 2 859 21 82, fax +359 2 958 14 70, hipodru-
ma@adonis.bg, www.adonis.bg. Also in jk Lozenets, ul.
Zlatovrah 4, Elemag, tel. 9620569, 0885 832 680. Q A
Ana D-1, bul. Vitosha 95, tel. +359 2 953 41 57.
A r o n i a 2 0 0 1 G-7, bul. Pencho
Slaveykov 6, tel. +359 2 953 13 08.
Saldzhi C-2, bul. Vitosha 35, tel. +359 2 980 58
96. Q A
www.inyourpocket.com
sofia.inyourpocket.com
67
bg, www.teddy-junior.blogspot.com. English centre - kin-
dergarten. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Weekend daycare.
Uwekind G-6, Boyana, ul. 612 4, tel. +359 2 857 51
00/+359 2 857 20 00, info@uwekind.com, www.
uwekind.com. A privately run kindergarten and school
with a half day German programme.
Hairdressers
Kalo Hair Studio B-2, bul. Vitosha 12, tel. +359 2 987
01 54, kalohair@mail.bg, www.kalohairstudio.com. Also
on ul. Damian Gruev 15 and bul. Vasil Levski 82 A. QOpen
09:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Stylist Kapanov C-2, bul. Hristo Botev 14, tel. +359
2 951 63 88, fax +359 2 953 30 12, botev@kapanov.
net, www.kapanov.net. One of the best in the business.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Hospitals
Isul A-5, ul. Byalo More 8, tel. +359 2 943 21 70/+359
2 943 21 32.
Pirogov (Multiprofile Hospital of Active Treatment
and Emergency Medicine) G-7, bul. Totleben 21, tel.
+359 2 915 44 11. Emergency tel. 150. Sofia’s main hospital
for emergencies. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Tokuda G-7, bul. N. Vaptsarov 51B, tel. +359 2 403
40 00, fax +359 2 403 40 10, info@tokudabolnica.bg,
www.tokudabolnica.bg.
International schools
American College of Sofia H-8, Floyd Black Lane,
Mladost-2, tel. +359 2 434 10 08/+359 2 434 10 09,
fax +359 2 974 31 29, acs@acs.bg, www.acs.bg. Private
secondary school founded in 1860 - the oldest American
educational institution outside the USA.
American English Academy G-9, Druzhba 2, 150
School - Deliyska Vodenitsa, fl. 4, tel. +359 2 973 12
22/+359 2 973 88 81, fax +359 2 973 55 64, aeaof-
fice@gmail.com, www.aea-bg.com. Classes from kinder-
garten to grade 12.
Anglo-American School of Sofia G-7, ul. Kozyak 16,
tel. +359 2 923 88 10, fax +359 2 923 88 59, aasdi-
rector@infotel.bg, www.aas-sofia.org. School founded in
1967 by the American and British embassies.
Deutsche Schule Erich Kaestner F-6, Lyulin-VI,
tel. +359 2 824 48 59/+359 2 826 72 80, fax +359
2 925 08 38, info@eks-bg.eu, www.kestnerschool.
com. German language school - kindergarten, primary and
secondary school.
First English Language School B-5, bul. Knyaz
Dondukov 60, tel. +359 2 944 21 81/+359 2 944 83
89, aeg1@abv.bg, www.fels-sofia.org. Public secondary
school founded in 1958.
July - September 2009
68 health & Lifestyle
The French school E-3, bul. Sveti Naum 36, tel. +359
2 963 21 19/+359 2 963 29 64, fax +359 2 866 58 70,
proviseur@vhugo.org, www.vhugo.org.
Laboratories
Biocheck A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 31, tel. +359 2 911
83/+359 2 983 33 93, www.biocheck-bg.com. QOpen
07:30 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Bodimed B-2, ul. Pozitano 24, tel. +359 2 986 38
64/+359 2 986 66 76, www.bodimed.com. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Libraries
British Council B-5, ul. Krakra 7, tel. +359 2 942
43 44/+359 887 424 344, fax +359 2 942 42 22,
bc.sofia@britishcouncil.bg, www.britishcouncil.org/
bulgaria.htm. Up-to-date newspapers, magazines, and lots
of lovely books. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Wed 10:00 - 13:30,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
French Cultural Institute B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 2, tel.
+359 2 937 79 22, fax +359 2 980 94 98, ccc-cours@
institutfrance.bg, www.institutfrance.bg. Bookstore
and library. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Goethe-Institut Sofia B-4, ul. Budapeshta 1, tel. +359
2 939 01 00, fax +359 2 939 01 99, info@sofia.goethe.
org, www.goethe.de/ins/bg/sof/bgindex.htm. German
language library. QOpen , Mon, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Tue, Wed,
Thu 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Instituto Cervantes Sofia B-3, ul. Saborna 1, tel. +359
2 810 45 00, fax +359 2 980 26 28, censof@cervantes.
es, sofia.cervantes.es. Spanish cultural centre. QOpen ,
Mon 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Fri, Sun.
Opticians
Cari Optics C-3, pl. Slaveykov 7, tel. +359 2 989 21
26/+359 2 989 21 71, fax +359 2 981 84 14, caristyle@
mail.orbital.bg, www.carioptics.bg. Q Open 10:00 -
20:00. Closed Sun. A
Eurooptic D-2, bul. Vitosha 92, tel. +359 2 953 11 32,
eurooptic2@mbox.contact.bg, www.eurooptik.com.
Also shops on ul. Sveta Sofia 8, tel. 987 24 92, ul. Tsar Ivan
Shishman 19, tel. 987 28 49, bul. Stamboliyski, Mall of Sofia,
tel. 987 79 79 QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. A
Fox B-4, bul. Dondukov 26 A, tel. +359 2 980 02 18,
office@foxoptics.com, www.foxoptics.com. Other shops
on bul. Hristo Botev 73, tel. 981 98 93, ul. Serdika 18, tel.
980 02 55, jk Liulyn, bl. 443, tel. 8258673, jk Mladost 4,
Business Park Sofia, Building 10, tel. 489 94 88 and bul.
Dondukov 26A.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. AU
Grand Optics C-4, ul. Graf Ignatiev 48, tel. +359 2 987
23 64, office@joyoptics.com, www.grandoptics-bg.com.
www.inyourpocket.com
Sofia In Your Pocket
Tattoo & Piercing
Getting a tattoo can be a life-changing experience,
or just another cartoon on you to fight boredom with.
In Sofia, tattooing is much cheaper and as good as
anywhere in the world. Bring your bravery, positive
attitude and ideas with you and leave everything to the
tattoo artist. Tattoo people are an underground breed
of their own and sometimes have strange ethics and
code of life, so treat them with respect. Ignore their
prison-style looks and remember that they are profes-
sionals in the ancient rituals of desecrating the flesh.
They can also make enough piercings on your body, to
trigger any airport metal detector!
Kravay Tattoo & Body piercing Studio C-3, bul.
Patriarh Evtimiy 43, tel. +359 885 757 819. Just
across the ugliest monument in Sofia, there is a little win-
dow and a bell button. Ring on it and get some true blue ink!
Mania C-2, bul. Vitosha 45 B, tel. +359 887 260
488/+359 886 689 141, vito6ka45@mail.bg,
http://www.myspace.com/tattoostudiomania. A
crew of talented artists covering all styles of body art. You
can purchase jewelry or obtain a piercing for almost every
part of your body. 100% sterility and professional work.
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Trip House C-2, ul. Tsar Asen 52, tel. +359 887
515 073, office@triphouse.net, www.myspace.com/
triphousetattoo. Professional tattoo and body piercing .
On-line shop: www.triphouse.net - all the necessary stuff
you need for graffiti, body-piercing and tattoo activities.
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Vision Tattoo & Bodypiercing Studio A-3, bul.
Maria Luiza 55, tel. +359 889 813 120. In the
dark alley hides a basement, where the magic of color
happens!
Shops also on bul. Vitosha 74 and 23, bul. Maria Luisa 41,
bul. Kosta Lulchev 52, Sky City, bul. Alexander Malinov 77,
Princess Outlet Center, Sofia Airport, Terminal 2. QOpen
09:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
Opticlasa C-2, bul. Vitosha 40, tel. +359 2 988 34 86,
opticlasa@trading.bg, www.opticlasa.com. ul. Alabin
31, bul. Stamboliyski, Mall of Sofia, ul. Solunska 14 and 37,
Mladost 4, Business Park Sofia, building 8 QOpen 10:30 -
19:30, Sat 10:30 - 18:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. A
Private medical clinics
Gurgulyat Clinic C-3, ul. Rakovski 148 B, tel. +359
2 912 88/+359 2 981 03 31, fax +359 2 981 02 91,
gurgulyat@yahoo.com, www.gurgulyat.com. bul. Gen.
Totleben 21, tel. 952 05 00, ul. 20 April 30, tel. 954 98 85.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Medical Center Dr. I.S.Greenberg H-8, Mladost-3
(in the building of XXV Polyclinic), tel. +359 2 974 48
16, fax +359 2 971 29 95, egreenberg@mbox.cit.bg.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
health & Lifestyle
St. Pantaleymon H-8, Zh.k. Mladost 3 bul. Aleksandar
Malinov 63, tel. +359 2 974 10 00, fax +359 2 974 44
50, info@sphospital.com, www.sphospital.com. Special-
izing Surgery Hospital. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
Thorax Clinics B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 57,
tel. +359 2 912 85, mail@thorax.bg, www.thorax.bg.
Thorax 2 is on ul. Fridtjof Nansen 21, tel. 980 78 86. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. A
Vita Medical Center G-8, ul. Dragovitsa 9, tel. +359 2
960 49 50/+359 2 943 43 98, fax +359 2 944 13 43,
vita@vita.bg, www.vita.bg. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
Dentists
dr. Yovcheva D-3, bul. Cherni Vrah 7, tel. +359 2 963
49 31/+359 888 401 918, dental@yovcheva.com,
www.yovcheva.com.
Medical Dent Consult E-2, bul. Dzheyms Bauchar 114,
tel. +359 2 963 07 37/+359 2 963 07 88, bkirilov@c-
mdc.com, www.c-mdc.com.
Medstom Clinic B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 26A, tel.
+359 2 981 00 00/+359 2 988 44 04, fax +359 2 988
31 80, medstom@abv.bg, www.medstom.com. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A
Michaelangelo Dental Studio B-1, ul. Otets Paisiy
29, tel. +359 2 988 49 47, office@michelangelodent.
com, www.michelangelodent.com.
Svedent Clinic C-3, ul. Solunska 9, tel. +359 2 981
96 31/+359 887 278 112, info@svedent.com, www.
svedent.com.
Religious services
Anglican church B-5, ul. Oborishte 5, the Catholic
Chapel, tel. +359 2 872 21 30, anglicanbg@gmail.
com, http://www.churchoftheresurrection.eu/sofia.
htm. Holy Communion is celebrated every third Sunday of
the month at 9:30 am.
Baha’i Centre G-7, ul. Boyanski Vazhod 8 A, tel. +359
2 955 58 33/+359 878 986 997, nsa@bahai.bg, www.
bahai.bg.
Banya Bashi Mosque (Dzhamia Banya Bashi) B-3,
bul. Maria Luiza, tel. +359 2 981 60 01, www.genmufti.
org. Prayer five times a day.
Baptist Church G-8, Interpred, bul. Dragan Tsankov
36, tel. +359 2 971 17 50, raychs@juno.com, www.
ibcsworld.org. Sunday teaching sessions at 10 a.m. and
worship services at 11 a.m. in English.
Hram Uspenie Bogorodichno ul. Lyulin planina 5,
tel. +359 2 953 04 06/+359 2 952 29 59, proykov@
gmail.com, www.kae-bg.org. Daily liturgy at 18:30, Sun
8:00 and 10:00.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
69
Medical Tourism’
Although the term ‘Medical Tourism’ is widely used to define
those people who cross borders to obtain treatment for
their ailments, these people are not usually interested in
sightseeing or visiting local attractions. Quite the opposite,
they come to seek treatment that is either too expensive or
has too long a waiting list in their home countries. In this new
series of articles we will highlight the various aspects of this
industry for which people come, or should come, to Bulgaria
as a viable alternative. This first article is about dentistry.
Your teeth are a valuable commodity, so you’ve decided
for one reason or the other that it will be best for you to seek
treatment abroad. You’ve looked at various options and are
about to make your choice. I suggest you keep on reading
this article since most of the recommendations given here
will apply to other countries as well. Our focus is Bulgaria.
First of all, Bulgaria is rich in dental practices. Unfor-
tunately, this doesn’t mean that just any dentist will suit
your needs. You need to be able to communicate with
the dentist, not just with his or her secretary. You need
to make clear in your own language so that both of you
understand each other. Good checks involve investigating
if the dentist is member of the Dental Association, does
he or she have referrals from others, look at their digital
business cards such can be their web site, facebook, Hi5
or other community portals. We live in modern times where
the Internet usage is wide spread, so it is in Bulgaria. It
is definitely not so that every dentist has his or her own
website or Facebook profile, the more established ones
do. A dentist who involves himself in the Internet can also
be seen as one that invests in his dental practice.
You need to talk about your budget, most health insur-
ances will cover your treatment received in Bulgaria, but
still you are the one that has to prepay either in cash or by
credit card. In any case it is advised, unless you’re loaded
with money and don’t know what to do with it, to check with
your insurance company as to whether the treatment you
are looking for is covered by your policy. Don’t expect that
one phone call or some email exchanges will establish the
final cost, it may take a little time to get the exact figure.
Be aware that the dentist has not seen you before, thus
never had the possibility to look into your mouth in person.
If you need treatment that involves multiple sessions, the
dentist should inform you about the expected length in days
and communicate regarding his availability. You don’t want
to run up against the desperate position that after the first
session of treatment your chosen dentist goes on holiday.
I am in the lucky position of living in this wonderful Bulgar-
ian country for years already and have visited 3 different
dentists all of whom lived up to my ‘western’ standards.
Why Bulgaria should be considered as a destination to have
your teeth fixed? The main reasons are already mentioned
within the first paragraph, cheaper than in most European
countries and hardly any waiting lists plus in general using
quite modern or sometimes even the latest technologies
and well educated dentists. No matter what it is that makes
you want to come to Bulgaria use your common sense,
don’t run yourself into a situation you may later regret. Take
your time, choose well and you will be able to sort out that
whitening or course of fillings at a fraction of the cost and
enjoy this wonderful city at the same time.
With the cooperation of dr. Konovski, michelangelo-
d en t.com, dr_kon ovsk y@mi ch elan gel o d en t.com.
July - September 2009
70 sports
Chabad Bulgaria (Jewish Community Center)
B-4, ul. Stara Planina 38, tel. +359 2 944 33 80, fax
+359 2 944 35 38, office@chabad-bulgaria.org, www.
chabad-bulgaria.org. Prayer every day at 8 am, except for
Friday when the service is held in the Synagogue. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sofia Synagogue A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 16, tel. +359
2 983 12 73, fax +359 2 983 50 85, sofiasynagogue@
mail.orbitel.bg, www.sofiasynagogue.com. QOpen
08:30 - 16:30, Sa t 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
St Joseph’s Catholic Church C-2, ul. Knyaz Boris
146, tel. +359 2 811 46 56. Daily liturgy at 08:00 and
17:30 in Bulgarian, Sunday and holidays at 09:00 in Pol
Dance clubs
Alfredo Dance Studio C-2, ul. Angista 6, tel. +359 899
222 088, info@alfredostyle.com, www.alfredostyle.com.
Salsa, Merengue, Bachata, Hip Hop, MamboQ A
Alima C-5, ul. Sheynovo 7, Fitness Central Park, Dance
Zone, www.orientaldances.net. Oriental dances - begin-
ner, intermediate and advanced levels. QOpen , Mon, Tue,
Fri 18:00 - 19:00.
Lira Group Dance Company bul. Yanko Sakazov 17,
tel. +359 888 678 963/+359 888 503 213, info@lira-
group.eu, www.liragroup.eu. Bulgarian folk dances, Cuban
salsa, Merengue, Bachata, Cha-cha-cha and Balroom dances.
QOpen closed, Mon, Thu 19:00 - 21:30, Sat 17:00 - 18:15.
Closed Tue, Wed, Fri, Sun.
Pambos Dancing Centre B-3, pl. Garibaldi 2, tel. +359
888 354 771/+359 888 981 769, maria@pambos.info,
www.pambos.info. Salsa, flamenco and Greek dances.
QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Raul Torres Dance School C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 3,
tel. +359 898 971 083, raultorres@abv.bg, www.tor-
resdance.com. Salsa, rumba, guaguanco, mambo, cha-cha,
guaracha, samba and merenge, hip-hop and modern ballet.
QOpen 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:00.
Tanguerin ul. Krakra 15, Czech Club Ballroom, tel. +359
888 373 940/+359 898 817 906, fax +359 2 958 71
55, info@tanguerin.com, www.tanguerin.com. Tango
argentino. QOpen closed, Mon, Wed, Fri 19:00 - 22:00.
Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
Vai, Dudule! G-8, ul. Alfred Nobel 5, 138 school, tel.
+359 886 885 468/+359 889 502 744, dididami-
anova@abv.bg. Bulgarian Folk Dances. “Vai, Dudule!” is
an exclamaition used in a prayer, part of a bulgarian folklore
custom, performed to the saints to send rain in times of very
dry weather. Fri, Sat and Sun private lessons. QOpen , Mon,
Wed 19:20 - 21:30, Thu 18:30 - 20:30.
10:30 in Bulgarian, 12:00 in Latin and 18:00 in Bulgarian.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:30.
The Bulgarian Lutheran Church D-3, Zh.k. Lozenets,
ul. Kapitan Andreev 4, fl. 2, tel. +359 2 963 42 44/+359
2 963 42 48. Sunday service in Bulgarian at 11.45am.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat.
Sofia In Your Pocket
Vets
Animo C-4, Zh.k. Mladost 1A, bl. 508, tel. +359 2 974
55 16/+359 889 780 180, www.animobg.com. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00.
Bowling
Snooker and Billiard club “Century” E-2, ul.
Chervena stena 4, tel. +359 899 988 376, snooker@
trivex.org, www.snooker.trivex.org. The club is not
very easy to find, although it is situated very close to
“Kempinski -Zografski” hotel. There are signs to follow, so
it shouldn’t be so hard to get there. Going downstairs, you
will enter this elegant, not so big, but pleasant place. There
are 4 professional billiard and snooker tables, a small
separated corner with a sofa, where you can have a drink
or two, check your email, or just have a rest. Nice music,
plasma TV, an English-speaking staff will take care of your
pleasant stay. Bulgarian alcohol is not available, but the
prices are quite low for this type of club. The place is also
used for organized billiard and snooker tournaments. There
are only 3 more billiard and snooker clubs in Sofia, but
that’s the only one, placed in the central part of the city.
QOpen 11;00 - 01:00. PAXW
Carting 936 03 56.
Carting Speedway Krasna Polyana G-7, bul.
Vardar 3A, tel. +359 2 920 14 47, kartingsport@abv.
bg, www.karting-bg.com. Kilometre-long circuit. During
winter season they work from 10:00 до
18:00. 2Lv per lap, every 11th is for free. The track can
be hired also per hour or per day. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Extreme sports
Air Sport Flight School B-1, ul. 20-i april 20, et.1, tel.
+359 2 951 56 43/+359 888 123 123, fax +359 2 953
15 47, info@airsport.bg, www.airsport.bg. Training for
ultra-light, sel (single engine land) aircraft, multi engine land
(mel) aircraft, private pilots and aerobatic flights. Certified
flight instructors. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Cross The Line B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 38, tel. +359 2 987
90 89/+359 887 402 525, crosstheline@abv.bg, www.
crossthelinebg.com. Alpinism, mountain climbing, caving,
rafting, kayaking, canyoning, team building, paragliding and
two-seater plane flights.
Parasof F-7, Svoboda, bl. 36, vhod G, apt. 55, tel. +359
2 898 94 42/+359 888 259 716, www.skydive-bg.
com. Parachute jumps, skydiving and paragliding. You have
to be above 16.
Sky Mania H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 15, 514, tel. +359
2 868 20 66/+359 888 903 536, delta_sky@hotmail.
com, www.sky-jet.com. Paragliding and motor pargliding
courses, flying equipment.
Vertical World G-6, ul. 711-ta 3, Knyazhevo, tel. +359
888 484 700, vertical_world_bg@yahoo.com, www.
verticalworldbg.com. Bungee jumping, alpinism, caving,
trekking, biking and adventure tourism. Training and equip-
ment provided.
www.inyourpocket.com
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Golf
Golf Club Air Sofia B-4, Ihtiman, ul. 6-i septemvri
1(office), tel. +359 2 981 09 25/+359 888 678 144,
golf@golf-bg.com, www.golf-bg.com. Eighteen-hole course
with a Par 71 rating. A round here costs 50Lv per person.
Equipment rental available on site. They might even pick
you up from your hotel in Sofia. In addition: fully staffed riding
stables with 10 horses, football and basketball playgrounds,
fitness club, hotel and restaurant. Q AFK
St.Sofia Golf Club & SPA C-5, bul. Tsarigradsko Shose
9 (office), tel. +359 2 943 45 05/+359 889 783 888,
fax +359 2 943 45 04, office@stsofiagolf.com, www.
stsofiagolf.com. In Ravno Pole village - 15 minutes drive
southeast of the city centre. Eighteen hole course with
English-speaking management. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.
Horse-riding
Nova Zvezda G-6, Knyazhevo area, villa area Kiliyte, tel.
+359 2 944 76 52/+359 888 466364, info@ezdabg.
com, www.ezdabg.com. Horse-riding: 40 min-15Lv, 1 h-20Lv
, 1 Day -70Lv. Equestrian tourism, bow and arrow, visiting of
hunting forestry, 1, 2 and 3 day tours, organizing of parties
and team buildings with horses and exotic animals.
Ice-rinks
Slavia G-8, ul. Koloman 1, tel. +359 2 856 49 75/+359
2 856 91 97, fax +359 2 855 21 37, www.pfcslavia.com.
Works from September till March. Admission 4Lv. Skate rental
3Lv. QOpen , Wed, Fri 18:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 13:00,
17:00-18:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu.
Winter Sport Palace (Zimen dvorets na sporta)
H-8, Studentski grad, tel. +359 2 68 71 62. Out amongst
the high-rise dorms of Sofia’s “student city”, 7km southeast
of the centre. Admission fee: 6Lv, plus a three more leva for
skate rental. Works from September to March. QOpen , Wed
18:30 - 20:00, Sat 17:00 - 20:30, Sun 17:00 - :20:30.
Outdoor swimming pools
Diana Complex ul.Nikola Gabrovski, Dianabad district,
tel. +359 2 962 01 01. Another big swimming complex in
the city, recently renovated. It offers three outdoor swimming
pools (two Olympic-sized pools and one with a high diving
board) and an indoor fitness hall. The complex has a beach
volleyball playground and a cocktail bar, a beer bar and a
barbecue. Kids will enjoy the bouncy Chinese castle with
water slide. There is a V.I.P. zone where you get a welcome
cocktail, access to a chairlounge, an umbrella, a table and a
even a pillow! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Admission: 4Lv (all day).
Deckchair additional 3Lv; VIP Zone additional 7Lv.
Lyulin Beach Lyulin-6, bul. D.Neru 30. Luxurious swim-
ming complex completely in contrast with the endless rows
of ugly grey flats that make up the surroundings. Three
swimming pools, one with artificial waves, and a beach area
covered with real sea sand. There’s a bar in the middle of the
pool as well as a beach bar, pizzeria and barbeque. There’s
a kid’s corner with pool, cradles, slides. Catch the metro to
Lyulin Station and some 10 minutes walk to get there. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00. Admission: 6Lv.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
sports 71
Mariya Luiza G-8, Borisova Gradina, tel. +359 2 963
00 54. An outdoor pool attractively situated amidst the
trees and meadows of Boris’s Garden, this has the feel of
an out-of-town resort - and is correspondingly popular with
females clad in tiny strips of cloth. Three large pools are at
your disposal: an Olympic size one, one with a waterslide, and
a kiddies’ pool. There’s a café-bar next to the pool serving
reasonably-priced drinks, and a full range of snack food. If you
like pancakes, then it will take you several visits to munch your
way through the variety on offer here. There is also an open-
air tennis-court, beach-volleyball and football playgrounds, a
fitness-centre with a sauna, steam bath, solarium, and mas-
sage. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Entrance fee 4Lv. An umbrella
and a couch together cost 3Lv.
Stadium
Natsionalen Stadion Vasil Levski C-5, Borisova gra-
dina, tel. +359 2 930 06 66/+359 2 930 07 51.
Stadion Bulgarska Armia D-5, Borisova Gradina, tel.
+359 2 963 34 77.
Stadion Georgi Asparuhov - Gerena F-8, kv.Suhata
reka, tel. +359 2 945 30 46.
Stadion Lokomotiv F-7, kv.Nadezhda, tel. +359 2
Stadion Slavia G-6, kv. Ovcha Kupel, tel. +359 2 980
05 08/+359 2 980 49 87.
Tennis & Squash
Academic Tennis Club ul. Nezabravka 3-5, Borisovata
gradina, tel. +359 2 870 01 36, info@utcakademic.com,
www.utcakademic.com. Outdoor and indoor courts with
professional trainers, sauna, massage and fitness in the park
right in the heart of Sofia. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
08:30 - 14:00. JFKD
Maleevi Tennis Club G-7/8, bul. Nikola Vaptsarov 57,
tel. +359 2 962 22 88/+359 878 622 282, fax +359 2
962 86 65, info@maleevaclub.com, www.maleevaclub.
com. 09:00-19:00Tennis, squash, tennis school, fitness,
massage, Thai massage, solarium, hairdresser, cosmetics,
restaurant, bar, events hosting and shop. QOpen 09:00 -
19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
Maxi Club H-7, bul. Simeonovsko shose 110, tel. +359
2 962 23 04, dilieva@maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.
com.
July - September 2009
72 Business directory
Business & Officials
Ever wondered if cars can fly, swim or drive by them-
selves? Who knows, it might as well be possible since
everyday gadgets were considered science fiction twenty
years ago. The best way to learn everything about those
four, three and two wheel machines these days is not the
internet, but the annual Sofia International Motor Show in
the Inter Expo Center.
Accountants & Consultants
Deloitte B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 103, tel.
+359 2 802 33 00, fax +359 2 802 33 50, bulgaria@
deloitte.com, www.deloitte.com.
Ernst & Young H-8, Business Park Sofia, Building 10
fl.2, tel. +359 2 817 71 00, fax +359 2 817 71 11, office.
sofia@bg.ey.com, www.ey.com.
Eurobalance Ltd. G-8, ul. Karnegi 10, tel. +359 2 980
77 47, eurobalance@abv.bg, www.eurobalance.net.
Four Consult G-7, ul. Racho Dimchev 8, tel./fax +359
2 981 30 82, tel. +359 897 886 925, daniela@fourcon-
sult.com, www.fourconsult.com.
Grant Thornton C-3, ul. Uiliyam Gladston 54, tel. +359
2 980 55 00, fax +359 2 980 48 24, office@gtbulgaria.
com, www.gtbulgaria.com.
KPMG D-3, ul. Frityof Nansen 37, tel. +359 2 969 73
00, fax +359 2 980 53 40, office@kpmg.bg, www.
kpmg.bg.
Price Waterhouse Coopers B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 9-11,
tel. +359 2 935 52 00, fax +359 2 935 52 66, pwc.
bulgaria@bg.pwc.com, www.pwc.com/bg.
Advertising agencies
Huts JWT G-8, ul. Charlz Darvin 14B, tel. +359 2 971
71 95/+359 2 971 71 96, fax +359 2 971 71 78, info@
hutsjwt.com, www.hutsjwt.com.
Leo Burnett G-8, ul. Maragidik 6, tel. +359 2 943 44
51, fax +359 2 943 41 65, office@leoburnett.bg. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
McCann Erickson G-8, bul. Shipchenski prohod 63,
tel. +359 2 971 96 41, fax +359 2 971 95 04, office@
mccann.bg, www.universalmccann.com.
Ogilvy & Mather C-1, ul. Dospat 60-62, tel. +359
2 952 34 00, fax +359 2 953 34 19, info@ogilvy.bg,
www.ogilvy.bg.
Banks
BNP Paribas Bulgaria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel
2, tel. +359 2 921 86 40, fax +359 2 921 86 95,
bulgaria_bnpparibas@bnpparibas.com, www.bulgaria.
bnpparibas.com.
Sofia In Your Pocket
Bulbank - Uni Credit Group B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 7,
tel. +359 2 923 21 11, fax +359 2 988 46 36, www.
bulbank.bg.
Corporate Commercial Bank B-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 10,
tel. +359 2 980 93 62, fax +359 2 980 89 48, corpbank@
corpbank.bg, www.corpbank.bg.
First Investment Bank D-4, ul. Dragan Tsankov 37, tel.
+359 2 910 01 00, fax +359 2 980 50 33, fib@fibank.
bg, www.fibank.bg.
HVB Bank Biochim B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 1, tel. +359 2
926 92 10, fax +359 2 926 94 40.
ING Bank D-1, ul. Emil Bersinski 12, tel. +359 2 917
64 00, fax +359 2 917 65 78, ing.infobg@ingbank.com,
www.ing.bg.
OBB (United Bulgarian Bank) B-2, ul. Sveta Sofia
5, tel. +359 2 811 28 00, fax +359 2 988 08 22, info@
ubb.bg, www.ubb.bg.
Poshtenska Banka (Bulgarian Post Bank) B-4, bul.
Tsar Osvoboditel 14, tel. +359 2 816 60 00, fax +359 2
988 81 10, contact@postbank.bg, www.postbank.bg.
Pro Credit Bank A-2, bul. Hristo Botev 131, tel. +359
2 921 71 00, fax +359 2 921 71 10, contact@procred-
itbank.bg, www.procreditbank.bg.
Raiffeisen Bank C-5, ul. Nikolay Gogol 18-20, tel.
+359 2 919 85 101, fax +359 2 943 45 28, www.
raiffeisen.bg.
SG Expressbank B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 73,
tel. +359 2 937 04 76, fax +359 2 981 79 17, www.
sgexpressbank.bg.
Bulgarian officials
Council of Ministers B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 1, tel.
+359 2 940 27 70, fax +359 2 980 20 56, gis@govern-
ment.bg, www.government.bg.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs G-8, ul. Aleksandar Zhen-
dov 2, tel. +359 2 948 29 99, fax +359 2 870 30 41,
iprd@mfa.government.bg, www.mfa.government.bg.
National Assembly B-4, pl. Narodno Sabranie 2, tel.
+359 2 939 39, fax +359 2 981 31 31, infocenter@
parliament.bg, www.parliament.bg.
Presidency B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 2, tel. +359 2 923
93 33, press@president.bg, www.president.bg..
Business connections
American Chamber of Commerce H-8, Business Park
Sofia, Building 2, tel. +359 2 974 27 43, fax +359 2 974
27 41, amcham@amcham.bg, www.amcham.bg.
Atlantic Club of Bulgaria C-4, ul. Slavyanska 29, tel.
+359 2 981 06 99, fax +359 2 981 57 82, natoinfo@
natoinfo.bg.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Business directory
British Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce G-8, ul.
Nikolay Haytov 2, entr.5, 1st floor, tel./fax +359 2 971
47 56, info@bbcc.bg, www.bbcc.bg.
Bulgaria Economic Forum C-2, bul. Vitosha 86, tel.
+359 2 951 52 59, fax +359 2 953 29 24, info@biforum.
org, www.biforum.org.
Bulgarian Business Leaders Forum C-4, ul. Slavyan-
ska 42, tel. +359 2 986 52 02, fax +359 2 986 56 25,
office@bblf.bg, www.bblf.bg.
Bulgarian Dutch Business Club B-2, ul. Sofroniy
Vrachanski 1, tel. +359 2 987 99 11, chairman@bg-nl.
com, www.bg-nl.com.
Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce and Industry
A-5, ul. Iskar 9, tel. +359 2 987 26 31, fax +359 2 987
32 09, bcci@bcci.bg, www.bcci.bg.
Bulgarian Industrial Assosiation B-2, ul. Alabin
16-20, tel. +359 2 932 09 11, fax +359 2 987 26 04,
office@bia-bg.com, www.bia-bg.com.
Bulgarian International Business Association B-1,
bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 55, tel. +359 2 981 95 64,
fax +359 2 981 91 69, office@biba.bg.
Bulgarian Stock Exchange B-2, ul. Tri ushi 10, tel.
+359 2 937 09 34, fax +359 2 937 09 46, bse@bse-
sofia.bg, www.bse-sofia.bg.
European Commission Representation B-3, ul.
Moskovska 9, tel. +359 2 933 52 52, fax +359 2
933 52 33, delegation-bulgaria@ec.europa.eu, www.
evropa.bg.
German-Bulgarian Trade and Industrial Chamber
G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 25A, tel. +359 2 816 30 10, fax +359
2 816 30 19, ahk-office@ahk-bg.org.
Institute for Market Economics B-5, bul. Patriarh
Evtimiy 61, tel. +359 2 952 62 66, mail@ime.bg, www.
ime.bg.
International Monetary Fund Representative Of-
fice B-3, BNB, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. +359 2
981 45 06, fax +359 2 981 25 24, jroaf@imf.org.
Invest Bulgaria Agency B-4, ul. Aksakov 31, tel. +359
2 985 55 00, fax +359 2 980 13 20, iba@investbg.gov-
ernment.bg, www.investbg.government.bg.
Italian Chamber of Commerce B-5, ul. Oborishte 1B,
tel. +359 2 846 32 80, fax +359 2 846 32 81, info@
camcomit.bg, www.camcomit.bg.
North American Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce
C-1, ul. Petko Karavelov 1A, tel. +359 2 951 53 87,
fax +359 2 951 69 84, bulgaria@nabcc.org, www.
nabcc.org.
OJB Shalom bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 50, tel. +359
2 870 163, www.shalom.bg.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
73
Privatisation Agency C-4, ul. Aksakov 29, tel./fax
+359 2 980 98 27, press@priv.government.bg., www.
priv.government.bg.
United Nations in Bulgaria C-3, ul. Khan Krum 25, tel.
+359 2 969 61 00, fax +359 2 981 31 84, info@undp.
bg, www.un-bg.bg.
World Bank G-8, Interpred, bul. Dragan Tsankov 36, tel.
+359 2 969 72 29, fax +359 2 971 20 45, itaushanova@
worldbank.bg, www.worldbank.bg.
Business facilities
Business Park Sofia H-8, Mladost 4, tel. +359 2 489
90 81, fax +359 2 489 90 80, office@businesspark-
sofia.com, www.businesspark-sofia.com. Office space
accommodating over 200 companies, restaurants, cafes,
shops, banks.
Inter Expo Center (IEC) G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose
147, tel. +359 2 965 52 20, fax +359 2 965 52 30, bul-
reklama@bulgarreklama.com, www.iec.bg. Exhibition
and congress complex with 8 separate halls, restaurants
and cafes.
Interpred World Trade Centre G-8, bul. Dragan
Tsankov 36, tel. +359 2 969 50 52, fax +359 2 971 20
06, bsc@wtcsofia.bg, www.wtcsofia.bg. Rentable office
space, conference facilities.
Sterling Serviced Office Group B-3, ul. Saborna 2A,
tel. +359 2 926 41 11, fax +359 2 926 41 00, sofia@
sterlingoffice.com, www.sterlingoffice.com. The only
serviced office centre in Sofia.
Foreign representations
Albania B-5, ul. Krakra 10, tel. +359 2 946 12 22,
albanian@centrum-grup.com.
Austria B-4, ul. Shipka 4, tel. +359 2 932 90 32, fax
+359 2 981 05 67, sofia-ob@bmeia.gv.at, www.aussen-
ministerium.at/sofia. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00.
Belgium E-4, pl. Velchova zavera 1, tel. +359 2 988 72
90, fax +359 2 963 36 38, sofia@diplobel.fed.be, www.
diplomatie.be/sofia. Only in case of emergency out of office
hours call tel.+359 (0) 888 63 19 3.
Canada B-4, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. +359 2 969 97 10,
fax +359 2 981 60 81, consular@canada-bg.org.
Cyprus E-3, ul. Plachkovitsa 1A, tel. +359 2 961 77 30,
fax +359 2 862 94 70, cyprus@mbox.contact.bg.
Czech Republic B-5, bul. Yanko Sakazov 9, tel. +359
2 946 11 11, fax +359 2 946 18 00, sofia@embassy.
mz2.bg, www.mzv.cz/sofia.
Denmark B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 54, tel. +359 2 917
01 00, fax +359 2 980 99 01, sofamb@um.dk, www.
ambsofia.um.dk.
July - September 2009
74 Business directory
Estonia B-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-30, tel. +359 2 937 99
00, fax +359 2 937 99 09, embassy.sofia@mfa.ee, www.
sofia.vm.ee/blg.
Finland A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-28, tel. +359 2 810 21
10, fax +359 2 810 21 20, sanomat.sof@formin.fi.
France B-5, ul. Oborishte 27-29, tel. +359 2 965 11
00, fax +359 2 965 11 20, presse@ambafrance-bg.org,
www.ambafrance-bg.org.
Germany G-8, ul. Fr. J. Curie 25, tel. +359 2 918 38
00, fax +359 2 963 16 58, reg1@sofia.diplo.de, www.
sofia.diplo.de.
Greece C-5, ul. San Stefano 33, tel. +359 2 843 30 85,
fax +359 2 946 12 49, info@greekembassy-sofia.org,
www.info.greekembassy-sofia.org.
Hungary D-3, ul. 6-i septemvri 57, tel. +359 2 963 11
35, fax +359 2 963 21 10, embassy.sof@kum.hu.
China H-8, ul. Aleksandar fon Humbolt 7, tel. +359 2
973 38 73, fax +359 2 971 10 81, webmaster@chinae-
mbassy.bg, www.chinaembassy.bg.
Ireland A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-30, tel. +359 2 985 34 25,
fax +359 2 983 33 02, info@embassyofireland.bg.
Israel D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1- NDK, tel. +359 2 951 50 44,
fax +359 2 952 11 01, info@sofia.mfa.gov.il. QOpen
09:30 - 12:30.
Italy B-4, ul. Shipka 2, tel. +359 2 921 73 00, fax
+359 2 980 37 17, ambasciata.sofia@esteri.it, www.
ambsofia.esteri.it.
Japan G-8, Lyulyakova gradina 14, tel. +359 2 971 27
08, fax +359 2 971 10 95, www.bg.emb-japan.go.jp.
Korea H-8, bul. Andrey Saharov, Mladost 1, tel. +359 2
77 53 48, saebyolkк@yahoo.com.
Macedonia G-8, ul. Fr. J.Curie 17, tel. +359 2 870 50
98, fax +359 2 971 28 32, todmak@bgnet.bg.
Netherlands G-8, ul. Oborishte 15, tel. +359 2 816
03 00, fax +359 2 816 03 01, sof@minbuza.nl, www.
netherlandsembassy.bg.
Norway B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 54B, tel. +359 2
981 11 06, fax +359 2 981 90 10, emb.sofia@mfa.no,
www.norvegia.bg.
Poland C-3, ul. Khan Krum 46, tel. +359 2 987 26 10,
fax +359 2 987 29 39, polamba@internet-bg.net, www.
polamba-bg.org.
Portugal B-1, ul. Pozitano 7, tel. +359 2 921 68 68, fax
+359 2 921 68 21, embpor@sofia.dgaccp.pt.
Romania G-8, bul. Mihay Eminesku 4, tel. +359 2 971
28 58, fax +359 2 971 36 19, ambsofro@vip.bg.
Russia G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 28, tel. +359 2 963 44
58, fax +359 2 963 41 03, info@russia.bg.
Serbia G-8, ul. Veliko Tarnovo 3, tel. +359 2 946 16 33,
fax +359 2 946 10 59, sofia@emb-serbia.com, www.
emb-serbia.com.
Sofia In Your Pocket
Slovak Republic B-5, bul. Yanko Sakazov 9, tel. +359
2 942 92 10, fax +359 2 942 92 35, embassy@sofia.
mfa.sk.
South Africa A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26, tel. +359 2 981
66 82, fax +359 2 981 57 76, saembsof@techno-link.
com.
Spain C-5, ul. Sheynovo 27, tel. +359 2 946 12 09,
embespbg@mail.mae.es, www.embespbg.com.
Sweden G-8, ul. Alfred Nobel 4, tel. +359 2 930 19
60, fax +359 2 973 37 95, ambassaden.sofia@foreign.
ministry.se, www.swedenabroad.com/sofia.
Switzerland G-8, ul. Shipka 33, tel. +359 2 946 01 97,
fax +359 2 946 16 22, vertretung@sof.rep.admin.ch,
www.eda.admin.ch/sofia.
Turkey C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 80, tel. +359 2 935 55 00,
fax +359 2 981 93 58, turksofya@spnet.net.
Ukraine G-6, ul. Boryana 29, tel. +359 2 818 68 28,
fax +359 2 955 52 47, puvrb@mbox.contact.bg, http://
www.mfa.gov.ua/bulgaria.
United Kingdom B-3, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. +359 2 933
92 22, fax +359 2 933 92 19, britembinf@mail.orbitel.
bg, www.british-embassy.bg.
USA G-7, ul. Kozyak 16, tel. +359 2 937 51 00, fax +359
2 937 53 20, irc@usembassy.bg, www.usembassy.bg.
Lawyers
Arsov Natchev Ganeva B-5, ul. Shipka 36, tel. +359
2 943 40 66, fax +359 2 946 33 48, info@anglaw.
com, www.anglaw.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Dia Consult C-2, ul. Uzundzhovska 16, tel. +359 2
981 91 78, fax +359 2 980 20 26, diacon@techno-link.
com, www.diaconsult.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Dimitrov, Petrov & Co. C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 36,
tel. +359 2 987 70 96, fax +359 2 988 73 60, info@
dpc.bg, www.dpc.bg. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Kambourov & Partners C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 55, tel.
+359 2 986 99 99, fax +359 2 986 99 95, office@kam-
bourov.biz, www.kambourov.biz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Stoychev, Valkov & Co. Law firm ul. Damyan Gruev
20, fl.4, apt.9, tel. +359 2 852 69 99/+359 2 852 49 99,
office@lawyers-bg.net, www.lawyers-bg.net. QOpen
09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Office supplies
Multirama C-3, ul. Solunska 2, tel. +359 2 400 66
20, office@multirama.bg, www.multirama.bg. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
Office 1 Superstore G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose
139, tel. +359 0 700 10 700, tm@hq.office1, www.
office1.bg. Q A
sofia.inyourpocket.com
Business directory
Office Express H-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 135, tel.
+359 0800 1 80 80, offex@offex.bg, www.offex.bg.
Office delivery service. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:30
- 14:00. Closed Sun.
Real estate
Address B-5, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel. +359 2 810 33 48,
address@address.bg, www.address.bg. QOpen 09:00
- 19:30. Closed Sun.
Colliers International H-8, Business Park Sofia, Mla-
dost 4, Bulding 7B, tel. +359 2 976 99 77/+359 888
372 091, bulgaria@colliers.com, www.colliers.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Discover Bulgaria Properties H-8, Mladost-4, bl.
473, vh.2-3, tel. +359 2 881 57 14, fax +359 2 881
53 32, properties@discover-bulgaria.com, properties.
discover-bulgaria.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Grato Investment G-7, bul. Bulgaria 102, Business
Centre Bellissimo, office 2, tel. +359 2 428 13 08/+359
885 665 730, fax +359 2 428 13 07, office@gratoinvest-
ment.com, www.gratoinvestments.com. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tvoyat Dom (Your Home) C-3, pl. Slaveykov 7, entr.B,
tel. +359 2 986 48 86, fax +359 2 987 52 88, info@
tvoyatdom.com, www.tvoyatdom.com. QOpen 09:00
- 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Recruitment
Correct Consult Bulgaria Ltd. G-7, bul. Knyaz Boris I
49, tel. +359 2 851 91 15, office@correct-consult.com,
www.correct-consult.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Babysitting and Homecare
Detegledachki , tel. +359 888 816 309, info@de-
tegledachki.com, www.detegledachki.com. Recruitment
agency for babysitters and homecare services.
Mery Poppins D-4, ul. Milin Kamak 40, tel. +359 2
865 48 10/+359 878 621 936, info@marypoppins-bg.
com, www.marypoppins-bg.com. Recruitment agency for
babysitters and homecare services. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Tina V (G-8) ul. Nikolay Gogol 1, tel. +359 2 846 54
85/+359 889 322 529, info@tina-v.com, www.tina-v.
com. Babysitting and homecare recruitment agency. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
United Phili C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 28, tel. +359 78
808 568, united_ph@abv.bg. Babysitting and homecare re-
cruitment agency. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Beauty salons
Charmant C-1, ul. Sveti Ivan Rilski 15, et. 2, tel. +359
2 952 34 30, office@charmant.bg, www.charmant.bg.
sofia.inyourpocket.com
75
Thalasso treatments, massage, manicure and more. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00. A
Picasso B-3, ul. Aleksandar Batenberg 10, tel. +359 2
989 66 99/+359 2 989 06 68, picasso2@abv.bg, www.
cosmelas.com. Studio for laser cosmetics. QOpen 09:00 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. W
Visages B-2, bul. Vitosha 50, tel. +359 2 988 42 51.
Cosmetic services, massage, manicure, tatoos and more.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 -
18:00.
Yves Rocher Beauty Center C-2, bul. Vitosha 63, tel.
+359 2 986 31 64/+359 2 987 99 10. Various cosmetic
services with quality products. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Mon,
Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A
Bulgarian language courses
Atlas-S B-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 1, et. 3, tel. +359 2 987
20 08/+359 2 980 43 92, fax +359 2 980 55 79, at-
las_lc@abv.bg, www.atlas-s.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30,
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Sofia University Department of Language Learn-
ing G-8, ul. Kosta Lulchev 27, tel. +359 2 871 00
69/+359 2 872 00 69, fax +359 2 870 53 28, office@
deo.uni-sofia.bg, www.deo.uni-sofia.bg. The only certified
centre for testing of Bulgarian as foreign language. QOpen
08:30 - 17:00.
York Learning Centre D-3, ul. Rakovska 187 A, et.
3, tel. +359 2 986 21 45/+359 898 457 433, info@
york-bg.com, www.york-bg.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
Catering
Lora Catering B-5, bul. Todor Aleksandrov, bl. 75,
ent.D, fl.1, opposite Arena cinema Liulin, tel. +359 2
920 13 01/+359 888 800 548, lora2002@gmail.com,
www.loracatering.com. Professional catering services for
all occasions.
Luxe B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. +359 2 980 02 03/+359
888 241 164, office@luxebg.com, www.luxebg.com.
Catering and event planning. Q A
MDM Catering F-7, ul. Strandzha 132, tel. +359 2
833 40 83/+359 898 50 43 07, info@mdmcatering.
com, www.mdmcatering.com. Business and corporate
catering.
Cleaning services
Borivan Ltd. F-7, Zh.k.Obelya, bl. 118, vh. V, tel. +359
2 931 16 20/+359 886 520 055, fax +359 2 934 66
90, service@borivan.com, www.borivan.com. Machine
cleaning and washing, grinding and polishing. Contact tele-
phone for weekends and holidays 0885 405 610. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00.
Vasilka Cleaning Agency G-7, ul.Kamen Andreev 24,
fl.4 ,office 404, tel. +359 2 952 34 34/+359 889 245
July - September 2009
76 Index Streets & Maps 77

Street Index
11-ti avgust A/B-4
13-ti mart D-3
20-ti april B/C-1, C-2
6-ti septemvri B-4, C-3/4, D-3
Aksakov B/C- 3, C-4
Alabin B-2/3
Aleksandar
  Batenberg pl. B-3
Aleksandar Nevski pl. B-4
Aleksandar
  Stamboliyski bul. B-1/2
Angel Kanchev B/C-3
Antim I A-2, B-1/2
Arsenalski bul. E-2
Atanas Dalchev G-8
Baba Nedelya pl. D-2
Bacho Kiro A/B-3
Budapeshta A-3/4, B-4
Bulgaria bul. D-1/2
Bulgaria pl. C-2
Cherkovna G-8
Cherni vrah bul. D-2/3, E-3
Denkoglu B-2/3
Dragan Tsankov bul. C/D-4, D-5
Dunav A/B-4
Dyakon Ignatiy B-3
Dzheims Baucher E-3/4
Ekzarh Yosif A-2/3/4/5
Elin Pelin D-4/5
Evlogi Georgiev C-4/5, D-3
F. Z. Kyuri G-8
Frityof Nansen C-3, D-2
Garibaldi pl. B-3
Georgi Benkovski A/B-4
Gladston C-2/3
Graf Ignatiev B-3, C-3/4
Gurko B/C-3, C-4
Han Asparuh C-2/3
Han Krum C-3
Hristo Belchev B-3, C-2/3
Hristo Botev bul. A-2, B-2, C-2
Hristo Smirnenski D-4, E-4
Iskar A/B-4, B-3
Ivailo B-2
Ivan Shishman B/C-4, C-3
Ivan Vazov B-3/4, C-4
Kaloyan B-3
Knyaz Boris C-1/2
Knyaz Dondukov bul. B-3/4/5
Kozloduy F-7
Kozyak G-7
Krakra B/C-5
Krum Popov D-3/4
Krastyo Sarafov D-3/4
Karnigradska B-2
Lavele B-2
Lege B-3
Lyuben Karavelov C-3/4, D-3
Madrid bul. G-8
Makedonia pl. B-2
Maria Luiza bul. A-3, B-3
Moskovska B-4
Naicho Tsanov bul. F-7
Narodno sabranie pl. B-4
Neofit Rilski C-2/3
Nezavisimost pl. B-3
Nikola Vaptsarov bul. G-7/8
Oborishte B-5
Orlov most C-5
Panayot Volov A-5, B-5
Parchevich C-2/3
Patriarh Evtimiy bul. C-2/3
Pencho
  Slaveykov bul. C-1, D-1/2
Pirotska A-1/2, B-3
Pop Bogomil A-3/4
Pozitano B-1/2/3
Praga bul. C-1
Rakovski A-4, B-4
San Stefano C-5
Serdika A-3, B-3
Sheinovo C-5
Shipka B-5
Simeonovsko shose G-8, H-8
Sitnyakovo bul. G-8
Slaveykov pl. C-3
Slavyanska B-3/4, C-4
Sofiiski geroi G-7
Sofroniy Vrachanski A-2, B-2
Solunska B-2, C-3
Stara planina B-4, A-5
1:110 000
Stefan Kardzha B-3/4
Saborna B-3
Sv. Naum bul. E-3/4
Sveta Nedelya pl. B-3
Todor Aleksandrov bul. A-1, B-1/2
Totleben bul. C-1
Tri ushi B-2
Triaditsa B-3
Tsar Asen B-2, C-2
Tsar Osvoboditel bul. B-4, C-5
Tsar Samuil B-2, C-2
Tsar Simeon A-1/2/3/4
Tsarigradsko shose G-8, H-9
Tulovo C-5
Tundzha C-1, D-2
Vasil Levski bul. A-4, B-5, C-3/4
Veliko Tarnovo G-8
Veslets A/B-3
Vitosha bul. B/C/D-2, D/E-1
Vladayska B1
Vladimir Vazov bul. G-8
Vazrazhdane pl. B-1/2
Yanko Sakazov bul. B-5
Yuri Venelin C-4

Index Captain Cook 35 Kapri 24 Residence Oborishte 22

4km Party Centre 43 Cargo 40 Kempinski Hotel Zografski 20 Retro club Gramophone 45
8th Ball 46 Casa Boyana 21 KFC 30 RotasaR 25
Adams restaurant 39 Casa de Cuba 40 Kohinoor 30 Ruski klub 34
Adonis 44 Casa Ferrari Bed and Kolikovski Hotel 24 Salsa plus 45
Alcohol 43 Breakfast 23 Krivoto  33 Scotty's Boutique Hotel 25
Alexander Palace 23 Central 21 Kumbare 29 Seasons 32
Am-Gul 41 Central Forum 21 Kushtata s chasovnika 31 Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan 20
Amsterdam 41 Central Park Hotel 21 Latinka 24 Shipka 25
Anel 20 Chalet Suisse 36 Lavazza Club 38 SkyWay Hotel 22
Angels Club 46 Checkpoint Charly 31 Lebed 31 Social Jazz Club 46
Annette 33 Chepishev 31 Legends 24 Sofia Guesthouse 26
Apartament 52 39 Chervilo 45 Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel 22 Sofia Plaza 22
Apartment House Dunav 26 Chillout Bar & Dinner 36, 40 L'Etranger 29 Starbucks café 39
Apartment House Iztok 26 Chillout Lounge 40 Life House 45 Stroezha 47
Apartment House Sofia 26 Classic 33 Lion 24 Sushi Bar 32
Aris 25 Club 703 40 London Minute 38 Sveta Sofia 22
Art Club Museum 38 Club Liqueur 44 Lozenetz 24 Swingin' Hall 46
Arte 23 Club Sugar 44 Magdanoz (Parsley) 28 Taboo Club 46
Art-Hostel 26 Coffee House 38 Magnito bar & dinner 31 Taj Mahal 30
Art 'Otel 20 Comercial 31 Magnolia 30 Tambuktu 35
Atlantic 23 Cookies bar & dinner cafe 31 Manastirska magernitsa 29 Tazka 33
Avenue 47 Costa Coffee 38 Maraia fusion bar & diner 32 Tea House 41
B29 Piano Bar 46 Crystal Palace Boutique Maskata 47 The Black Lodge 40
Babbles 43 Hotel 21 Maxi Park Hotel & Spa 22 The Blue Box 40
Bacardi Box 47 Dedeman Sofia Princess 22 McCarthy's 40 The Bookies 39
Back Stage 46 Diter 24 McDonald's Rock'n'Roll 30 The Club 46
Backstage Karaoke Bar 41 Don Domat 33 Meg Lozenetz 24 The Net 47
Bar & Diner Maraia  30 Egur, Egur 28 Miss Kapriz 33 The Rooms 26
Barabar 39 Elate Plaza 21, 31 Moderato 32 Toba&Co 41
Bar na kraya na vselenata 47 Escape 45 Mon Ami 33 Toucan Bluzz & Rock 47
Basic 39 Etno 28 Moskva 34 Triada 23
Baskerville 39 Exit Club 44 Motto 41 Trikrakoto pile 32
Be My Guest 26 Fix Mix 38 NAI-klub 46 Trops Kushta 30
Best Western Hotel Expo 21 Flannagans 42 Niky 25 Troyantsite 32
Biblioteka Cool House - Piano Gioia 32 Onda Coffee Break 39 Tsarsko Selo 23
Bar 41 Grand Hotel Sofia 20 Opera 41 Tsentralni hali 30
Bilkovata 39 Greenville Hotel & Apartment Orient 33 47 Tunka Chervena Linya (Thin Red
Bistro Zita 30 Houses 22 Orisha bar & dinner 41 Line) 41
Bitburger 37 Hadzhidraganovite kashti 28 O'Nice  38 Ugo 34
Blaze 40 Halbite 28 O! Shipka  34 Uno Enoteca 32
Boyansko hanche 31 Happy Bar & Grill 29 Palms Merkur Casino 38 Upstairs 41
Brilyantin 44 Harmony 25 Park Hotel Vitosha 22 Vagabond 35
Brod 25 Hilton 20 Planeta 46 Variety 24
Buddha Bar 39 Holiday Inn Sofia 20 Pod lipite 29 Vega Sofia Hotel 23
Bulgari 23, 28 Hostel Mostel 26 Pop Bogomil 25 Victoria 34
Bulgaria 38 Hostel Sofia 26 Pri Latsi 29 Vishnite 32
Butchers 31 Internet Hostel 26 Pri Miro 35 Vodenitzata 31
By The Way 40 Irish Harp 42 Pri Yafata 29 Vratata (The Door) 32
Cabaret 44 Jim Beam Club 47 Radisson SAS Grand Hotel 20 Zhadnata Lamya 32
Cactus 31 Jimmy's 38 Red Bed and Breakfast 25 Yalta 45
Cappuccino bar & dinner 40 J. J. Murphy's 42 Renaissance 25 Yesterday Karaoke Bar 46

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78 Streets & Maps Streets & Maps 79

Sofia In Your Pocket sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com July - September 2009

80 Streets & Maps Streets & Maps 81

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